This tutorial provides a step-by-step guide on how to stain an exterior wood door. It includes steps such as removing all hardware, sanding and cleaning the door, setting up a flippable workstation, applying wood conditioner, then sanding smooth, applying stain to desired color depth, and applying 2-3 coats of polyurethane. The tutorial also covers finishing the door, including applying Pigment Stain and applying the second layer of color.
To ensure a professional-looking finish, it is essential to remove the hardware connected to the door and apply a high-quality exterior topcoat or sealer designed for wood. Apply the sealer in the direction of the grain with a clean, clean surface. To fix uneven staining, sand the door to create a uniform surface and apply a wood conditioner before re-staining.
Prepare the wood for stain by applying Minwax wood conditioner with a stain pad. Use a brush or rag to apply two coats of Cabot’s Stain and Varnish, Colourwood Pigmented stain, or Johnstone’s Professional Exterior Timber Oil to all surfaces. Avoid putting excess stain on your brush or door, making your strokes even and trying to barely overlap them.
Working with dyes is easy, as you can add powder concentrate to hot water, stir it well, strain the mixed solution, and apply with a pad. This guide offers tips on preparing, applying, and maintaining exterior wood stain, as well as providing tips on when to apply a second coat and what products to use for different surfaces and conditions.
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Hi Steve, First up great name haha I have collected native rimu timber that I have used to make a coffee table, and dining table and with all the off cuts I have make various size chopping boards. But what I have also collected is cedar and have made a tv cabinet/stand and am busing making some coffee tables and maybe a dinning table. With it being cedar it’s extremely soft. What is the best finish I can use to protect the surface? Cheers Steven
great article. i’ve done 4 coats on a table, and I don’t think I let the stain sit long enough before wiping it off. The table is still a bit sticky after a few days. Is that normal? I wanted to do one more coat to get the desired darkness. Is there a way to ‘fix’ this, or can I apply a final coat over the stick existing stain, wait 5 – 15 minutes, and then wipe out? Or is there another way to do this? Thanks!
From a materials engineering and chemistry standpoint, it is not entirely true that stain doesn’t protect wood if the stain is oil-based. Depending on what else may be in it as well as how it is being used (on what wood and for what purpose) and how it is applied, an oil-based stain that penetrates and dries tends to resist and displace moisture that might otherwise reside in and around the cells. This won’t eliminate all consequences from the presence of future moisture, but it can be somewhat protective while allowing the material to breathe. In certain applications, permeability is important for drying and polyurethanes or other sealants which cover the surface of the wood may be a problem rather than a solution. I realize that would not normally be true in the projects you do, but just wanted to note that some transparent stains are sometimes used alone in protective ways without coloring or sealing.
I never liked adding finish or clear coat that would make your nice a smooth sanded wood and turn it into a rough mess, and then for some stupid reason you have to sand it and finish it and sand it and finish it over n over, I was in a woodworking class long ago and the instructor never really did teach us the correct way to finish wood, so I made a wood toolbox and left it in it’s natural unfinished glory 🙂
One thing not mentioned. Before you stain (or apply any surface liquid). When wood first absorbs moisture – fibers on the surface will rise/curl and it will seem to grow a fine fur/peach fuzz. This can ruin the look. To avoid this, wet the wood surface with a moist rag and let it sit for a few hours to dry. Then sand it one final time just to remove that “fuzz”. Now apply the stain.
this article was VERY thorough even for someone who has enough experience with wood work. Not a ton but a lot. FYI… When doing many many linear feet such as in base, I use a “weenie” roller to get the stain on (no I don’t get ridiculous and have it soaked and dripping duh) then of course wipe excess off with a rag. Of course I had to “prove” myself to a dude, so I did 10 boards in the time he did two. lol
It’s unusual to stain hardwood? I been in the industry 14 years, 98% of all wood going out the door is stained unless it’s an unfinished product. It is VERY RARE to have a customer walk in my door that want a kitchen or furniture with no stain. I’ve probly worked on 200 custom kitchens and might have done 5 with no stain colour.