This guide provides a step-by-step process for leveling uneven concrete slabs. It starts by placing a leveling layer of sand on the surface to cover any depressions and tamping it down to settle once the concrete is poured. The frame is then filled with new concrete and left to cure as directed by the manufacturer. A brush or trowel is used to finish the concrete.
As concrete patios age, they often begin to sink or crack. To cover small cracked concrete portions, patching is the way to go, where a part of the slab is removed and sand packs below to support the slab. Self-leveling concrete compound is often the best option for minor imperfections in concrete patios.
The process begins with assessing the concrete surface. Cracks can be repaired, but severe cracks that go all the way can require resurfacing. Maintaining a concrete porch is important for its structural integrity, providing safe entrances and exits for guests and homeowners, and preserving curb appeal and value.
Several main steps to pouring a concrete patio include marking and excavating, assembling and leveling forms, mixing and pouring concrete, finishing the concrete, and more. A self-leveler may be the answer to fill in a depression, but ideally, the porch should have some slope built into it for water runoff. Concrete leveling can lift and stabilize the porch, or piers can be installed to hold up the foundation.
In summary, leveling uneven concrete slabs is a fast, non-toxic, and simple method that can be done quickly and effectively.
📹 Repairing Tongue & Groove Porch Flooring
Old houses have porches, but old porches have rot! In this video I’ll show you how I replaced the decking on my 1918 porch and …
What is the cheapest way to level an uneven floor?
Uneven floors can be frustrating and costly, especially when running into them. To raise floor height, add a thick underlayment designed for the job or consider adding a framed wooden subfloor or floor leveling compound before installing new flooring. Raising floor height can be done for various reasons, such as meeting the floor height with another room, making it easier for people with mobility issues, or replacing old flooring materials with thinner ones like luxury vinyl planks. The thickness of the planks can leave a gap between the flooring and the baseboards, but the benefits of the materials used can vary depending on the chosen method.
Can self-leveling compound be used outside?
Tilemaster’s External Leveller is a high-performance, fibre-reinforced self-levelling compound designed for exterior smoothing and levelling of subfloors. It is a rapid-setting, free-flowing mixture that can be applied in thicknesses ranging from 2mm to 50mm in just one application. It can withstand light foot traffic after just 3 hours and can accommodate floor coverings like ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone tiles. Its exceptional flow and adhesion properties make it suitable for a wide spectrum of applications, both in commercial and residential settings.
Upon mixing, Tilemaster External Leveller remains workable for 20 to 30 minutes and can withstand light foot traffic after just 3 hours. It is ideal for transforming outdoor spaces, ensuring a flawless, level surface.
TileMaster Adhesives External Leveller is engineered to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, including rain, UV rays, and temperature fluctuations. Its user-friendly formulation makes it easy to mix and apply, and its excellent flow properties make it quick and easy to achieve a smooth, even surface. Overall, Tilemaster External Leveller is a versatile and efficient choice for transforming outdoor spaces.
Can you put self-leveling concrete over existing concrete outside?
Self-leveling concrete is a thinner, easier-to-flow, and faster-setting cement-like compound that can be poured over existing concrete slabs when mixed with water. It spreads and evens itself out, creating an even surface texture. However, it is not recommended for leveling out settled or dropped slabs. It is best used for achieving an even, smooth finish on slabs that may have been poured with dips or uneven finishing. Self-leveling concrete is used to achieve a flat surface, either as a standalone floor or in preparation for flooring installation.
When should you not use self-leveling concrete?
Self-leveling concrete, a polymer-mixed product, is not suitable for use on non-horizontal surfaces, vertical walls, or areas with heavy machinery or harsh chemicals. It is also not suitable for floors with structural damage, as it only fixes the surface and may reoccur if the underlying floor orientation is in bad shape. Self-leveling concrete is also unsuitable for large-scale repairs due to its fast drying time and increased cost. A self-leveling concrete bag is more expensive than ordinary cement.
How do you raise and level a porch?
Concrete leveling can be used to lift and stabilize a sunken porch, while piers can be installed to hold up the foundation. A combination of both may be necessary depending on the severity of the issue. To ensure the best outcome, it’s recommended to consult an expert, such as A-1 Concrete Leveling, who has been helping homeowners restore sunken porches for over 30 years. To request a free onsite consultation and estimate, click the link provided.
How to fix a sunken porch?
To level out a sinking concrete porch, first ensure the area is clear and free of debris or plants. Measure the area and purchase enough concrete to cover it. Mix the concrete with water until an even mixture is formed, then pour it into each corner of the area until all the cement is evenly distributed across the porch. With patience and effort, anyone can level out a sinking concrete porch quickly.
When deciding when to call a professional to repair your sunken concrete porch, consider the safety factor. If you have doubts about the stability of your porch, consider hiring a contractor specializing in such repairs. If the issue has been ongoing for too long and the repair is more complex than a basic patch up job, hire an experienced individual with knowledge of complex concrete repairs. Don’t hesitate to contact a professional with any questions or concerns about your porch.
Can I use self-leveling concrete on my porch?
Self-leveling products are not recommended for interior applications, but concrete repair mortar like Topcem Premix or Mapecem 102 can be used. Topcem Premix is an accelerated-cure screed mortar suitable for both bonded and unbonded applications, offering easy screeding and sloped workability. Mapecem 102 is a one-component, shrinkage-compensated, polymer-modified, fast-setting cementitious mortar with a corrosion inhibitor and silica fume, suitable for renovation and other renovation projects.
When should you not use self leveler?
Self-leveling concrete is not suitable for certain situations, such as thicker slabs or structural support, outdoor surfaces, large areas, or areas with excessive moisture. It can be challenging to work with due to its quick drying time, potential staining, and inability to strengthen unstable underlying surfaces. DIY repairs can be dangerous and costly if not done correctly. It is essential to know how to use self-leveling concrete and what can go wrong before purchasing it to fix problematic slab floors. It is crucial to consult a professional before using this material.
Can you pour self-leveling concrete over existing concrete?
Self-leveling concrete is a thinner, easier-to-flow, and faster-setting cement-like compound that can be poured over existing concrete slabs when mixed with water. It spreads and evens itself out, creating an even surface texture. However, it is not recommended for leveling out settled or dropped slabs. It is best used for achieving an even, smooth finish on slabs that may have been poured with dips or uneven finishing. Self-leveling concrete is used to achieve a flat surface, either as a standalone floor or in preparation for flooring installation.
Can you put a thin layer of concrete over concrete?
Pouring concrete over concrete requires a minimum thickness of 2 inches to prevent cracking and bonding issues. SUNDEK of Austin applied a SunStamp coating to a residential pool area in Jonestown, TX, for a durable, non-slip surface. However, pouring concrete over concrete is not always the best way to update or fix your concrete slab. Other options include using a different type of concrete or a different coating.
📹 Fixing driveway cracks, height differences, and broken edges, using TF Structural Concrete Repair
TF Structural is now available on Amazon. I wanted to give you an unedited video, with no audio, so you can watch the complete …
Question! We are about to do this to our wood porch. The tongue and groove lumber we got, says to prime and paint all surfaces of the board before install. I noticed you did not do this. I thought since they are tongue and groove, the primer and paint would build up and not allow the pieces to fit together. What are your thoughts on this since you have first hand experience with a tongue and groove porch
Greetings. I am a young man in Florida with a porch that looks JUST like yours. not just the rot, but the color and style is almost exact. House is over 100 years old and never had much work, so the entire porch was caved. I replaced all of the framing so far, and was trying to figure out what the boards with the notch and tab where called. I learned here They are tongue and grove boards. Thank you!
I have the same problem on my 1909 porch. The decking was replaced in 2003 when I purchased the house and the edge started rotting I want to say within 10-15 years. At the time of replacement they took the columns out and then put them back as part of the process, but you didn’t do that – are you worried about rot under the columns? What made you decide to do a full tear out? I saw at the beginning, the decking was in sections. Did you consider other decking products instead of wood? Do you think the wood treatment you did will be enough?
I feel like I’m looking at my same porch with the same heart pine. Not sure if the bora care will prevent the same thing from happening b/c the part of the porch that doesn’t get direct sun or exposure to moisture does just fine. The T&G just can’t handle the expansion & contraction of sun & water. I feel like the only answer is to use an awning off the porch facade or to use a substrate more expansion/contraction tolerance such as Trex. Looks so fantastic when fresh and new..then the battle eventually repeats itself!!
This helps so much! We just bought a 1400 sq foot house it has so much character but the house is lightly leans to one side because of settling over time. But also the porch is the same is yours. And it needs to be replaced and fixed. I’m worried if I start digging in I will run into problems I won’t be able to fix myself lol.
I’d love to see how this has held up. My concern is your brought the level of the driveway flush to the garage. That’s never a good idea in snow states. You’re going to either rot your garage door or have a run in of melted snow everytime you open the door. However, in mild climates, I’d love to see how long it lasts under the pressure of cars and trucks. The quality of layout is impressive though 👍🏻
Great job and I liked the music too. How did you repair the big crack? We have some big cracks on our concrete driveway, but I don’t think any are as bad as the one in the article-thumbnail. Maybe we can still save our driveway that to my knowledge was built in 1984 I never worked with concrete other than taking turns with my brothers when we were young boys stirring the concrete mix for our Father. I was told that I need to start by power-scrubbing wash our driveway – kind of like when I worked the midnight shift at Delchamps Grocery when we stripped and wax the floor. I will try to post a article of our driveway. I am the first and last line of “Chief Amateur in Charge” of home projects until we must call for professionals.
The correct way to build a driveway. First, you should slope the ground towards the street so the water drains into the street and doesn’t collect under the concrete. Then you should compact crusher run every 2 inches and build it up to at least 6″ with a “Thumper compactor”, plate compactors DO NOT Compact good enough . Plate compactors are used to flatten and area for paver stones to be place on a level surface only. Then you should lay your #5 rebar and call the termite/ Bugman to come out and flood the area with termite poison so termites don’t nest under the driveway/patio. If you are going to park a semi tractor or a heavy RV etc. on the driveway you will need at least an 8 inch slab, otherwise pour a 6″ slab. Most driveways are poured onto uncompacted dirt, have little or undersized rebar and the concrete mix is under 4500 P.S.I.. If you are building a new home Always call the Bugman to soak the compacted gravel with termite solution, and I mean SOAK it not just spray it.
It’s absolutely unbelievable how many trolls are leaving negative comments. Being myself a Mason, I know how much work that was. I’m 100% impressed. Also, I know homeowners. I guarantee they were told it would only get them a handful of years before possibly starting to scale. I also guarantee they didn’t care. People are cheap. Great job guys. Hats off to you for running like a well oiled machine together. Very impressive
When driveways meet a garage floor the driveway is dropped down 3/4 of an inch from the height of the garage floor. This is how they are built, to keep water out, driving rain, snow, etc. If a customer asks for it to be flush I always tell them no because they don’t know any better and you want them to have a good product. Looks sweet though.
This was a life changing article. Just wow. I have the most daunting of huge y shaped concrete driveways to be fixed or replaced. Exposed aggregate but I would happily have regular brushed finish for the future state. The. ROI considerations for replacing are just terrible. I can now envision how this could be broken into steps or phases to get it to a decent place without paying $50k Thanks
One good 4000 PSI power wash and this topping is off down the block. NYC this would be illegal, one crack and they want a licensed contractor to get a permit “Rip You Off” and Fix the Violation and have it removed. It’s Cracked cement not broken glass. Our Governments have gotten to out of control with their Extorting Tactic Rules and Regulations. What this contractor did was called a Topping.
As a long time old school finisher that has dealt with these overlay products many years this will not last. It actually wont last long at all in colder climates up north. But in this case being a driveway theres no possible way its justified vs tearing out the old and installing new which is gonna last 10x + longer than any overlay product. Granted there are applications where overlays out weigh tear out and replace but it has to be the right situation (foot traffic only, out of the weather) not a drive way
Ok, read the comments and people don’t see the issues. First, when concrete driveway settles its generally settles at the door because the original builder didn’t compact the soil before laying the driveway. So what this is showing that they are adding more weight. The concrete will continue to settle especially with the additional weight. Second, there was no bonding agent used before pouring the new concrete. This was 2 years ago and I’m SURE that this patch has started to delaminate. FYI, there is NO concrete that can be poured to a feathered edge. Just call your local poly injection company. They will inject through the concrete – compact the bad soil under the concrete – then lift the concrete to the desired level. Its the only permanent solution.
those cracks will return in two winters. you can’t glue concrete together. this is a total waist of time and money. you would be money ahead by removing the broken concrete, bringing in fresh 5/8 minus and pouring the garage apron. then pour the next section when you have the money. this is just a plane stupid waist of money. “you can’t make a silk purse out of a sows ear”.
I’d assume that as with patching spalling, this is no ordinary cement but something mixed to be more adhesive and slightly more flexible and less brittle. How does this compare with concrete lifting… Ultimately, there’s just breaking up the pavement, grading and laying down new pavement, I suppose this is just something to try before going to extremes. Note there might be advantages to breaking up the pavement and laying it down again as in heat pipes could be drilled in to bring ground heat to the surface or an active snow melt system laid down, it’s all a matter of what one can afford (there’s always just laying down asphalt on top of the concrete)
Might could have burned it in with a slurry coat. I would think it would have stuck better in the long run. Also if you would’ve wet the slab it would have helped as well. Just how I’d have done it. I’ve spent far to much time in classes on repair mortars and how manufacturers want them put on so that’s just a couple of tips from this old boy.
The apron is sinking for a reason. Either the earth wasn’t tampered correctly or its natural settling.I have seen this type of repair done before to level the apron. Unfortunately it’s a Band Aid” and a waste of time, money. It will look good for awhile and start sinking again. Also the outer edges will break off due to weather conditions and abuse.Time to put in a new apron and do it right.
Sorry but this is a topping slab with a bandaid fix of the crack itself. I Guarantee that this will delaminate as soon as the seasons change and the subsoil moves. Fixed plenty of these over the years in commercial applications and it’s always the same scenario. The topping slab started of as a good idea and then in time, and sometimes only a few months the damage created is Ben more costly then if the area was ripped up to b gin with. I don’t even bother touching residential as usually it’s too costly for people with no guarantee given on how long it will be good for. But each to there own.
Encouraged this is possible at all. My driveway has multiple cracks and I thought I was faced with a complete tearout and re-pour. Can this process withstand summer heat of occasional 100°+ heat? Is there a contraction-shrinkage factor? Skilled workers like you guys are very hard to come by here in Southern Oregon.
A lot of people in these comments are not very smart when it comes to overlays, I do this for a living and they did a good job, the most important part to an overlay is prep work, they didn’t show that but it looks like they ground the top layer off and washed it before overlay coat goes on, that’s what I usually do
The comments doubting how this “mortar” will hold up are not aware of the incredible strength these polymer modified overlays and levaler’s have. Tiny splatters on glass will dull a razor blade before coming off. The biggest challenge is working fast due to the rapid set time. These products are expensive because they work.