When applying stains and finishes to projects, it is essential to use proper protective equipment such as a respirator (NIOSH approved) and a particulate mask (gas mask) to protect your respiratory tract. Oil-based stains and finishes release volatile organic compounds (VOCs), so it is crucial to wear a particulate mask or gas mask when staining wood.
For outdoor wood surfaces, such as decks, siding, and furniture, it is recommended to use an air-purifying respirator (APR) or a powered air-purifying respirator (PAPR). For oil-based stains and finishes, reading SDS safety sheets ensures that safety requires nitrile gloves, serious ventilation, and a respirator that can handle VOCs. Particulate masks are suitable for outdoor use, while paint respirators and paint masks should be used according to the type of wood used.
When working with wood stain and glaze, a protective mask is necessary to protect your respiratory tract. Most tradespeople wear a half mask (3M) with an organic vapor cartridge and at least P95 filtration. If using a sprayer, a full face or half mask respirator with NIOSHA approved P100 organic vapor cartridge with dust control pre-filters is recommended.
Smell is the easiest way to determine if you have sufficient ventilation and vapor protection. If you can smell the paint, you are breathing toxic chemicals. Safely using products requires nitrile gloves, serious ventilation, and a respirator that can handle VOCs.
With water-based stains and finishes, safety lines should be in place. As long as ventilation is sufficient, a respirator may not be necessary, as long as the manufacturer recommends it.
📹 Buying The Right Masks And Respirators
Buying the right masks and respirators can be tricky if you’re not familiar with all the letters and numbers associated with these …
What to do after inhaling stain fumes?
Wood stain poisoning occurs when someone swallows substances used for wood finishing. To manage an exposure, call your local poison control center or the national toll-free Poison Help hotline (1-800-222-1222) from anywhere in the United States. The article is for informational purposes only and should not be used to treat or manage an actual poison exposure. Harmful substances in wood stains include hydrocarbons, carbon and hydrogen-containing substances, and other harmful ingredients. If you or someone you are with has an exposure, call your local emergency number or call the national hotline.
Can you sleep in house after wood stain?
The Chicago Flooring Blog discussed the question of whether homeowners can sleep in their homes after applying a water-based polyurethane finish to their hardwood floors. Polyurethane is a key step in installing and refinishing hardwood flooring, protecting the wood and giving it a smooth appearance. Many homeowners may wonder if it is safe to sleep in their homes after a polyurethane application. The answer to this question depends on the type of finish used, and it is recommended to stay out of the house for at least 8 hours. However, it is generally safe to walk on the floor much sooner after applying the final finish coat.
Should I wear a mask when staining wood?
To protect yourself from wood staining, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and follow safety precautions such as wearing non-latex gloves, safety glasses, and masks. Open doors and windows for ventilation, keep children and pets away from fumes, and soak rags or staining materials in water before disposal. In 2022, people are seeking sustainability opportunities, including refinishing old furniture and using sustainable products. DIY wood finishes using coffee, red wine, and tea can stain wood a darker color, but these methods are inconsistent and not durable.
Should you wear a mask when staining wood outside?
Prior to embarking upon any do-it-yourself endeavor, it is imperative to peruse and become intimately acquainted with the safety precautions that must be observed. This includes the use of a protective mask when engaging in the application of wood stains and glazes, in order to safeguard the respiratory tract.
Should you wear a respirator when sanding?
Professional sanding typically requires the use of a respirator, which should be accompanied by a written respiratory protection program. Additional personal protective equipment (PPE), such as eye protection or coveralls, may be necessary depending on the specific hazard assessment. FFP2 respirators are suitable for general sanding, while FFP3 disposable respirators or half masks with P3 filters are required for lead-based paint sanding.
Coveralls are also useful for keeping dust and debris off clothing, as they prevent particulates from collecting on clothing and contaminating other areas. Each situation may be different, so protection should be tailored to the specific hazard assessment.
Is it safe to sleep in house after staining floors?
Vacuuming is crucial for oil-based finishes due to the high fumes they produce. To ensure safety, open windows, turn on fans, and leave the house for three to four days. Water-based polyurethane dries quickly, allowing homeowners to walk on floors within 6 to 8 hours. However, it’s advised to allow floors to fully cure for at least 48 hours before moving furniture. Despite water-based coatings emitting less fumes, it’s still necessary to vacuum, and it’s generally advised to leave the house for at least two days.
Is it OK to breathe in stain?
VOCs are carbon-containing substances that create vapors or gases during the application and drying of stains. They contain the solvent odor from oil-based stains, which can be irritating and harmful to human health. Prolonged exposure can cause wood stain poisoning, burning sensation, blurred vision, and collapse. Adequate ventilation in the work area is crucial to reduce odors and improve indoor air quality. The EPA reports that indoor concentrations of VOCs can be 1, 000 times higher than outdoors, causing health problems.
To avoid oil-based stains, water-based stains are a safer alternative. Water-based stains use acrylic resin as the solvent, forming a bond between wood and pigment. The water evaporates from air exposure, leaving behind the resin and colorants on the wood surface. Water-based stains can dry quickly and be ready to walk on in as little as 30 minutes. Removing petroleum distillates, varnish, and linseed oil from oil-based stains significantly creates a safer stain and reduces dangerous risks.
Do I need to wear a mask when staining wood?
Prior to embarking upon any do-it-yourself endeavor, it is imperative to peruse and become intimately acquainted with the safety precautions that must be observed. This includes the use of a protective mask when engaging in the application of wood stains and glazes, in order to safeguard the respiratory tract.
What respirator should I use for stain?
If you have invested in high-quality spray equipment, it is essential to invest in a good respirator. A full face or half mask respirator with an NIOSHA approved P100 organic vapor cartridge with dust control pre-filters is recommended. These cartridges protect you from 99. 9% of airborne organic vapor, including oil or water particulate. Full face masks offer complete facial protection, while half masks are more comfortable and suitable. Ensure the mask fits properly to prevent inhalation of vapor. Facial hair should also be considered when selecting a mask.
When brush-applying a water-based finish, it is crucial to consider off-gassing fumes. The cosolvents in these finishes are usually ethylene (E-series) and propylene (P-series) glycols, which are used in the entire Emtech suite of water-based finishes. Ammonia is another off-gassing compound, and if not properly ventilated, can be irritating to the eyes, nose, and throat. All solvents off-gas during the film formation and curing cycle, so it is crucial to take off-gassing fumes seriously.
In conclusion, investing in high-quality spray equipment and respiratory protection is essential for maintaining safety in the workplace.
Should I wear a mask when spraying stain?
When operating spray equipment, it is crucial to take proper safety precautions and stay alert. Wear protective gear such as gloves, safety glasses, goggles, spray sock, hat, proper footwear, dust masks, and respirators. Ensure adequate ventilation and turn off appliances near the spray area. Refer to the sprayer operation manual for safety precautions.
Suggested tools and equipment include a Graco, Magnum, or TrueCoat Paint Sprayer, paint/stain, spray tips, empty buckets for priming and cleanup, stir sticks, paint strainer bag, tarps, drop cloths, masking tape, paint brush, Magnum tip extension, pressure roller kit, additional airless hose sections, spray shield, pump armor storage fluid, pump protectant fluid, and cleaning rags.
Move outdoor furniture away from the area to be sprayed and allow plenty of space for tools and equipment. Cover nearby shrubs, bushes, and plants with plastic tarps and avoid spraying on windy days. Cover anything below the deck or on the other side of rails or spindles with plastic to protect them from overspray. Sweep the deck of dirt and wash the entire surface with a pressure washer or deck cleaner. Rinse and allow the surface to dry completely.
How long do VOCs last after staining?
The U. S. Green Building Council has indicated that the off-gassing of oil-based finishes can persist for months or years, whereas lower-VOC, water-based products tend to complete the off-gassing process within a few days.
📹 WORST Product Ever, Oil Based Stain!Never Oil a Wood Fence
Never use oil based stains again. In this video I’ll show you how to stain a wooden fence using an airless sprayer and a brush.
Really good information; thank you for taking the time to go over the subject matter in such detail; subscribed. I have the RZ and a 3M half face; both seem to work great. One tip that might help: when using a half or full face respirator, after you put it on, cover each of the cartridge inlets with the palms of your hands, simultaneously, and draw a strong breath in … if the mask sucks tight against your face, effectively not allowing you to breathe in any additional oxygen, you have a good seal. This was how we were taught to verify a good seal on our gas mask, in Basic Training.
Absolutely love your articles. Smart, no-nonsense, very informative and easy to follow. I’m new to woodworking and it is almost scary how often I have a question about routers, masks, clamping, etc then you release a article that gives me all the information I need to move forward and/or make my own decisions. Many, many thanks!
I was using those paper masks when I started woodworking. They offered no protection really. I’d be coughing for a couple of days after sanding when using paper masks. I received the RZ 2.5 mask for Christmas 🎄🎁. Was doing some sanding earlier today and haven’t been coughing at all. My wife’s present may have just helped save my life. Thanks for taking the time to make this article and keep up the great work.
I’ve been welding for 24 years and use a north half face respirator with the over the shoulder hoses. For welding, this style of respirator will keep the cartridges out of the plume of smoke and will allow me to use 1 set of cartridges for up to a full month. In order to get a proper seal, you need to be clean shaven. That’s why you never see a fire fighter with a goatie or a beard. I will be upgrading to a PAPR air fed welding helmet.
As Clyde pointed out facial hair will severely limit effectiveness of a respirator. You can have something like a goatee but only if it is trimmed tight under the chin. If you can see hair it’s definitely limiting. To test a respirator hold your hands over the intake holes and breathe in. If The mask collapses it’s doing its job.
This was incredibly informative – everything was well delivered and edited! As someone who often has trouble parsing technical information like this, I really appreciate the concise and entertaining way you presented the information. Little details like the acted out mask testing segments really go a long way. I was wondering: I am someone who is working with polyurethane foam. The nature of my work requires me to sculpt the foam carefully with scissors and electric carving knives, meaning lots of tiny pieces and particles get everywhere. I vacuum frequently, but am worried about breathing in the “dust” as I work. I was considering getting a p100 filter with a 3M mask – perhaps a 6500, after seeing yours. I like the idea of the cartridge mask since I can swap the filters for different applications (such as spray painting) if I require them in the future. Do you think this would provide adequate protection? Or do you have a different recommendation? I was also wondering, with 8 hour a day work, how long would you say those pink pancake filters last on average? Or what is the recommended rate of replacement? Thank you so much again for this incredible and informative article! This was a much needed resource and I appreciate it a lot!
perfect article. expained everything perfectly. i would just like to make sure, for something like gold/silversmithing ( sanding, polishing, soldering metals.ect.), would an m3 mask with a p100 filter be best? (as opposed to the disposable “9320” type masks in terms of filtering power, comfort, and time between replacements?). thanks!!
Does Chlorine gas count as an organic gas? I work with a chemical made to clean big stainless steel food contact machines and we protect ourselves head to toe but not the lungs! I’ve become sensitive to bleach over the years and when i started working with this chemical i have to leave the area until it’s rinsed away. Heart suddenly beats quickly at the slightest wiff. But i wanna work! So if the fumes released from cleaning are organic I may try out the 3m one and see if I can still do the job. Thanks so much for the info! Now I know that painter I knew with a beard at the body shop was not following good safety protocols 😅 and someone like me is the example of why to treat chemical safety seriously as over time your body gets sensitized, making it so you have to be extra careful for the rest of your life. Man I wish it was cool to be safe in my 20s 😓 trying to make safety cool isn’t easy haha
Which filter would you recommend for demolition work drywall work especially when it comes to drywall sanding . Thank you in advance . Great article . Very much appreciated. Btw I have a the “Respirator 6503QL” also which respirator would you recommend for my line of work mentioned above. In the process of ordering some masks for my crew and would like your recommendation. Thanks again.
Any training article on use of respirators/gas masks should include addressing the issue of facial hair. For workplace respiratory protections OSHA actually prohibits any facial hair between the face and the sealing surfaces. From OSHA 1910.134, App. A: “The test shall not be conducted if there is any hair growth between the skin and the facepiece sealing surface, such as stubble beard growth, beard, mustache or sideburns which cross the respirator sealing surface. Any type of apparel which interferes with a satisfactory fit shall be altered or removed.” While OSHA regulations only apply to workplaces, it’s still wise to follow the regulations where your health could be adversely affected by doing otherwise. This would be particularly true if you’re depending on a respirator to protect you from paint or solvent fumes.
8:40 – so the pink P100 doesn’t work with organic vapors because vapors aren’t particles? I’m trying to wrap my head around the difference between an oil particle and organic vapor if they can both be airborne. Maybe fumes from a lacquer, wood stain, or polyurethane are gases and not particles? For woodworking I think the summary is to use an N or P mask for dust, and activated carbon for finishes. Thanks for the article, very helpful.
Good morning, After viewing the article 3 times I’m still not better off in buying a respirator, I’m in the pest control business and often have to crawl in tight space with dead mice-rats, and manipulation of traps. With your knowledge, which respirator would you recommend for breathing protection, easy to put on and encumbering. Thanks for your help.
Hey great article man, thanks. I just started a new job and we use dustbane pinosan for cleaning. And after a week of just wearing a filti-fiber mask, my lungs are killing me. All yesterday my chest was tight and I didn’t know why. Today I’m realizing it’s from the chemicals. I don’t feel it at the time of use, which is weird because my lungs are extremely sensitive to dust and smoke, being asthmatic. But today I am suffering. I will now start to wear my 3M respirator. It has the SO2, HCI, CI2, HF, H2S and P100 filter. Thanks again brother.
Matthew 6:19-21 NKJV “Do not lay up for yourselves treasures on earth, where moth and rust destroy and where thieves break in and steal; but lay up for yourselves treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor rust destroys and where thieves do not break in and steal. For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also.
Really informative article, thank you – but worth noting, the masks demonstrated all must seal to the face of the wearer to be effective, stubble and beards will reduce the protection they provide and a mask fit test should also be considered to ensure the mask selected is effective, not just comfortable.
What do you think which filter type is best for work with fire and flue gases as firefighter? Sure we have our own equipment but we are not using it in every single situation even thou there might be some hazards. For example when you are not standing dirrectly by the fire but in the vicinity there might be still harmful substances in the air.
are n95’s not enough for sanding drywall? just about everything i look up says it is however drywall can contain silica or talc and both are things that get breathed in, and should require a respirator then no? everyone commenting on beards etc, i was told i may aswell not be wearing a respirator if i have a beard. however i have heard of new products like safety quip! do you annually recrack a smelly stick to see if its 100% sealed? ive used the 3m half face many times in the field and often find my sweat ruins the fit and causes me to inhale particles… often wonder if it could accidentally lose its strength and we unknowingly carry on
You need to shave your beard. Doing so will give you a tighter seal. You can have that p100 filter on the mask won’t do you any good if you’re sucking air from around the sides. If you want to keep your beard you will have to wear a papr( powered air purifying respirator) which can give you an apf( assigned protection factor) of up to 1000, whereas the half masks only give you an apf of 10. Because with a papr it provides a constant positive pressure inside the respirator which will prevent you from sucking things in. With an apf of 10 with a half mask you can only go up to 10x the permissible exposure limit or pel for short, and with it being negative pressure, meaning you suck air in through the filters, you can suck stuff in. With a papr equipped with a full facepiece respirator you can go up to 1000x the pel and not have to worry about sucking anything in.
I’m going to tell you this I worked grinding fiberglass dust and nothing works until you go to a respirator those RZ masks don’t really work very well even if you have a good fit there’s a reason they don’t have that niosh to approval. I really wish they would seek it because the issue that they’re going to have is that those seals from the neoprene mask are not doing anything. Nowadays I just tell people skip the paper skip the RZ mask go to half face but if you really could go to a full face mask and the main reason is that you got the benefit of the inner seal of the respirator half mask plus an additional secondary on your eyes so that you don’t need to wear goggles and I find them so much easier to breathe in than half past respirators so they’re worth the money and they’re much more comfortable to wear
I think in tests I’ve seen on youtube, the P100 3M filter did 99.97 @ .3um. This was better than most competitors in this category; pretty impressive. Obviously if your mask has a bad seal, then that doesn’t really matter. Others might have mentioned this, but you can use the 502 3m adapter to attach the p100 3M filter to any 6000-series cartridge, giving it class-leading particulate filtering also. There’s also the 60900 series, which does organics AND p100 filtering as a single unit, as I think mentinoed, but there’s several more 3M options that do both organics and dust/particulate. You can even get 3M filters with radioactive particle filtering; the 60928, if worried about a nuclear explosion. The only filter 3M doesn’t seem to offer in its consumers cartridge series is a tear-gas filter, but any of the organic filters apparently will do the job just fine still.
On August 8th of this year, my house, along with my entire town was razed to the ground. Now, several weeks later, the county is finally allowing homeowners to return to their property before its all cleared out My question is: Which mask would you recommend for some one who will be returning to the rubble with the intention of salvaging what may have survived the blaze? I already have a metal detector, a rolling magnet, a sifter and various shovels and other tools at my disposal. But, I haven’t had a chance to consider what I should be wearing to prevent illness,—until now
I work as a school crossing guard and dealing with heavy traffic. I need a mask as I am having trouble dealing with vehicles emitted gaseous .The trubble is I need something that’s not so bulky and that I’m able to communicate in . Can you recommend a specific mask for me? I’m desperate to find something that works.
One more great option 3M offers are combination cartridge + filters. Instead of using the pancake style particulate filters only you use, the 6001 organic vapor cartridge can be combined with the 5P71 particulate filters and deliver a N95 rating. These work great in woodworking and other high load applications as the pre filters can be exchanged if buildup causes any restriction, and they keep the OV cartridges happy. For environments with smaller particles or if N100 is required, the one-piece 60921 are excellent, but don’t have replaceable “prefilters”. Either case prevents you from needing two different face masks with incompatible cartridge systems.
This is a great article! I’m still on the hunt for the perfect respirator. One fof welding at home and the other for dusty renovations at work. I wear Prescription glasses and breath heavy so the 3M with the downward valve should be next on my list. My big issue is the pressure and discomfort on my nose. Cheers!
hi, can anyone recomend me wich pne of these mask is good enough for anti cigarette smoke… you see, i work on a place where most of my workmates smoke god damn cigar and i cant stand them…. i tried to use towel to cover my face/mouth/nose but the anoying smell of cigar is still penetrates it… any recomrndation is verry apreciated…
Great article. That should definitely clear most things up. Thankfully my mom really pushed PPE (half and full face respirator) use on me when I got serious about woodworking back in the early 90’s and have been all about 3M and North ever since. I’ve also used Survivair and MSA but they never clicked. I changed from the 3M 7503 to the 6503QL once it was released and haven’t looked back but I still feel the 7503 is way more comfortable.
You can test for proper fit on the “traditional” respirators by covering the intake ports on the filter and breathing in. The mask should get sucked down onto your face. If not air can and will come in through the sides instead of through the filter. Air, like water, will take the path of least resistance.
So we had a bathroom job and we had to demo the old tiles and I bought that pink pancake respirator at 8:32 at Lowe’s and it says it filters molds and dust and so I used it while demoing the old tiles and holy cow the sheetrock behind the tiles were so moldy. I’m glad I bought that respirator because it did a great job and I couldn’t smell the molds but do you recommend using that for molds or there are other respirators that are more effective than the pink pancake respirator?
In Los Angeles they’re bringing back a covid mask mandate I would wear these masks all the time at an auto collision repair shop and a machine shop sandblast room the one thing I notice is how much dust gets through the mask probably through the sides knowing that I feel like the experts they should be asking do these mask work are the people that wear them everyday for work
Taking money out of our favorite hobby’s possibly tight budget is not fun, but as tempting as it it these days to go cheap, ppe is one thing one should not be cutting corners on, and brand names like 3M just give you the peace of mind to enjoy whatever it is that you’re doing. That’s what I think anyway…
Thank you so much. This is an excellent article. I am just getting into resin work and purchased the 3m 6500QL with the organic filters. So I think I purchased the correct items for this task. People have told me I need to wear goggles. I do wear eye glasses. Are the goggles still necessary for resin work. Is the need for the eye protection in case something gets splattered or also for vapors?
This is a great article with loads of good info – thanks so much for taking the time to make and upload it!!! Question – how often should we change the filter on a mask? Obviously it depends on various factors – how often used, how long it’s been installed etc, but is there a rough “rule of thumb” I could use? Keep up the good work!!!
I rescued a few sick donkeys a couple of years and now l’m slowly beginning to understand that l have to spend a fortune on this sort of thing just to be around their dusty asses (pun intended). They roll around in the desert dust all day and if l use a torch in the stables the amount of dust in the beam looks like I’ve just burst a bag of flour at the ceiling. I’m not going to try to get them masks though, l can barely afford hay as it is. Be fun using this breathing obstacle on a hot summers day. Phew. Thanks for the info.
Yesterday I almost knocked myself out spraying precat lacquer and I came here looking for the best respirator for just that. I was wearing the 3m respirator you showed here. Not sure what cartridges I have in it but, either way, I think the seal is very poor because my lungs, (and eyes) were burning bad. There were 3 different 3m masks on the shelf at Home Depot that all looked the same but I wasn’t sure which was best for my needs. So I guess my question would be- which specific cartridges should I consider for spraying lacquer? Thank You
I really like your article, it was very informative. I have a question though if anyone can help me, I was working on a small job were I had to sand this varnished shelves because I needed to change the color to white, they were big and many pieces, I was sanding outdoors with a N95 for 6 days, around 6-7 hrs per day. I have a full beard but I keep it short, should I be worried that I was breathing more dust than I was supposed to?? also I have to say that I don’t do this type of job for a living, it was just this one time but the sanding took forever. Thank you!
Hi there, I need a mask for running. I’ve been looking into 3m and msa masks but they seem to be focused purely on professional type work and not what i need, which is a mask that allows for free flow unencumbered breathing, particle blocking, n95 or higher and exhaust port. Any thoughts about how I can approach this?
Water based stain doesn’t last long, re-staining requires a lot of prep and it peels. Olympic was recommended for my cedar spa, by the spa manufacturer. All prep work and application was done per directions and it only lasted a year before it starting peeling. It took me over a week with a palm sander to sand the crap off the wood before applying an oil based stain. Oh, and I noticed the spa manufacturer no longer recommends the Olympic stain.. Since I couldn’t find oil based in my state at the time, I was able to order it from the spa manufacturer and had it shipped to me. (They now recommend Superdeck.) My next stain job will be piece of cake because the prep work will be just cleaning the cedar surface and letting it dry before staining.
I hear you on the oil overspray. This year I oil sprayed a multi-level deck. The oil overspray fogged and lifted to the next property, but at a distance. Those neighbors were glad when I was done. Spraying gave me speed but I would not do it again. Not a big fan of spraying for this reason and many others.
I’ve learned a lot from your articles but in my experience, no water based stain is as good as a good oil based stain like Ready Seal or TWP. Stain should soak into the wood and not leave a “coating” which peels or flat out fails. Spraying is troublesome with oils but it definitely lasts longer and is easier to reapply in a 2-3 years.
I love what you do, appreciate your experience, and your work is phenomenal… that being said, your article title (and I assume your stance against oil products) is counter to chemistry. Wood is naturally accepting to oil, because the wood naturally contains oil that keeps it healthy. Water on the other hand does feed trees when they are alive, but only helps them rot when they dead. Oil + wood = a good relationship & water + wood = a bad relationship… In the short term the outcome may be quite beautiful from using a water-based product, but the maintenance will be severe over time. On the other hand, using an oil-based product will have to be maintained on a schedule, but the lasting effects will be wood that will last a lifetime +… I also saw that you used a Sherwin product (SuperDeck), which is full of petroleum distillates and dryers unlike something like ABR’s X-100 which is primarily linseed (flax) oil. Using a natural plant based oil on a schedule will provide the longest lasting health to wood… I understand where you are coming from, but I disagree based on the science of the matter… Keep doing what you do!
I built a redwood wheelchair ramp and replaced a gate for a customer. I used water base stain/sealer on the gate and I used oil on the ramp and deck. The water based product faded out and the gate started to get gray within two years. But the ramp and deck still look good. It’s been about 5 years and the deck still looks good. I went back and re did the gate in oil for the customer.
Longevity and looks are two different things. Oil base equals longer life. No contest. Staining for looks can be costly and difficult, especially if you are looking for a uniform look. And in order to maintain nice looks, you will have more maintenance or reapplication than just staining for longevity with oil base.
At LykeNew Power Wash we do our best to stay away from all semi-transparent stains. They are twice the labor to apply right and do not last as long. However the customer is always number one and gets to choose. On my Facebook page you can see a before and after of a surface wash and strip we did on over 500 ft of already stained semi-transparent stain that was applied the year before wrong. Then the after pics with it applied correctly. We use the same method but different equipment. We like to use a 12 volt diaphragm pump no smaller then 1.8 gpm at 60 psi then back brush in using a special micro fiber pad that allows us to push a lot more stain in the wood. One pad can last us well over 300 ft of ruff cedar 6 ft high. Check it out for yourself. Idaho painter keep it Rockin and thanks for all you do.
I’ve been told the oil based stain soaks into the wood more, good for 1st coats, and future coats could then be latex. But, better products seem to come out all the time. And I agree, latex is much better to work with. Also, sometimes I hang a plastic over the back side to catch overspray. Great articles, and good family help!
the best stain for a new or bare fence is linseed paint non toxic and one the best paints for the environment thinned with raw linseed oil and turpentine not white spirit until its translucent then every 10-15 years just rub over with raw linseed oil the main reason why were replacing exterior timber with plastics is cause we stopped using linseed paints mostly industry wide.
So, this article is how to do the least work to say a fence is stained. Water based stains are just a coating, it doesn’t penetrate. It holds any water in the wood inside and can actually cause it to rot earlier. It will start going bad in as little as a year. It can chip and peel. It needs to be removed before re-applying a new coat. Don’t use water based and ALWAYS use oil based. Choose a low VOC oil/stain, apply when wood is dry, and it will last longer, look better, and when it does need a refresh, you can apply over the old.
I have learnt a lot from your articles regarding spraying but this approach wasn’t a professional one. I did loads of spraying in the last 2 years and figured out: Airless for water based or 2 pack; Hvlp for oil based stain or 2 pack. With the oil based stain on bare wood: 1 coat of base coat, 2-3 days of curing time, sanding, and 2 coats of top coat with 3 days of curing inbetween. Have you tried Sadolin? The first 2 coats thinned with white spirit 10-20% depending on wood dryness.
Great article!👍🏻 me myself would back roll and brush especially on rough sawed. I’d use a pole and a 3/4 ” nap probably use a bigger tip 517 sometimes I’ve even turned the tip around to spray more paint in certain areas . Keep a bucket with a grid n a lil bit of paint in it and a brush for tight areas. You can do miles of fence
Oil based stain is the BEST for decks and fences. It penetrates MUCH better than the water based. I painted a deck with water based once and 2 yrs later the paint started peeling off. Horrible! On the other hand.. I stained my front porch floor and railings with Cabot Gold oil based and it’s been 6 yrs and it looks as good as the first day. This guy is lazy and wants to do an easy-fast job.
The title of this is confusing as I believe he says that he is using an oil based stain. Regardless, oil based stain is what you want, never latex. Not sure what he is using, looks like a sherwin Williams label. Water based not my first choice,. ready seal is ok, but best stain I have ever used is standard paints brand, “wood defender” made in mansfield, Texas, with their applicator. Smooth as silk, heavy solids, best finish period. Any stain from Lowe’s or Home Depot is latex garbage, coats and seals the fence, will cause mold and rot…..no matter what bs they tell you or what it says on the can. Really don’t have overspray issues unless it is too windy, then you tent or don’t spray. Wood is simply a rigid sponge, if a properly constructed(most are not) fence is cleaned and retreated every 4-5 years a fence can last a lifetime. There is no forever fix for anything in your home, it all requires maintenance. He emphasizes about making sure the fence is dry….he is on the money, so critical to the staining process. See guys all the time throwing fences up on a Monday, Tuesday finished and the stain is on. What they don’t tell you is that lumber was wet in a stack on Monday morning, and you end up with a crappy stain job that begins fading and streaking after a year. Good article, as usual, well explained, guy knows what he is doing.
Sorry. I’m Not a professional painter. Just a 3rd gen farmer with a lot of experience treating fences and barns. If you want good long term results, we only use oil based. As a matter of fact. We use, used motor oil cut with diesel fuel. Best ever long term results and it keep out all wood boring insect. Old timers know best.
What you talking about? Water based paints are the worst to use on outdoor wood or any kind of wood. Oil based paint is the best for outdoor wood, fence etc and it’s been for all the time. Long life time and will not crack, cip, or be washed with rain so easy. Get a sealant over it and you can redue the paint in arround 3-5 years time if good applied.
@Lucc 701 with all do respect- WHAT!!!!!!!! pigments are solids! I’ll grant it, they are ground pretty small, just reference the settling that occurs at the bottom of paint and ESPECIALLY THOSE STAINS. ….so yea, those solids, they DO NOT penetrate a darn thing, but please, dont take my word for it, see you cant sand it right off. No problem right? But maybe you meant dye Dyes on the other hand have pigments ground SOOOO fine, they cannot crash from their respective solutions. Dyes do in fact penetrate wood. Ready Seal is a paraffin based product (in other words, a mineral oil, based product). It can ONLY go on BARE WOOD, and… (perhaps itself?) ( forgive the uncertainty, I don’t fool with it at all, due to their VERY MISLEADING ad literature that omits stripping the existing finish between their “before and after” photos) Unlike TWP where it’s TDS states ONLY EVER on BARE WOOD. Only ever on bare wood, I know no one adheres to that, but when making definitive “professional” claims about products and their performance, it is relevant.
So you’re saying the main reason 𝙮𝙤𝙪 don’t use oil based stain is it’s not worth potential issues with overspray even though oil based is better for the wood. What about later when the water based product starts peeling and you have to go back and scrape it all off and re-coat. The last fence I stained with water based (BEHR) did not hold up on the south facing side. Yes, yes, I found out BEHR water based stain is 𝘾𝙍𝘼𝙋….never again.
No doubt 2-3 x’s more product than a homeowner, however nearly 90% of that extra 2-3 X’s more, is actually just floating away (hence the cloud he is working in, you can bet that was the BEST edit to mitigate the obvious) Bare in mind that cloud that will be landing on the homeowner’s driveway, house, car, and patio furniture, etc. A pump sprayer with an upgraded professional “tip/wand” from your local tractor supply would offer a FAR more efficient application. Albeit a bit slower, it would save 50% of the product. (he is absolutely correct about the importance of back brushing) If time is/was a concern.. handy folk and or professionals could add a small submersible insecticide pump creating a very efficient custom stain sprayer. BTW, a bilge pump is a perfect choice. They are a bit more money, but they LAST.
Chris I love re-watching your articles before and after doing projects to keep checking my work. For a Graco tip, and Austrailian outdoor semi-transparent stain, I used a 213. at 2000psi. This did not go well. I feel like I should have dropped to 211 or 209 which is not rated for semi-transparent. The HEA tips for Titan, Im not sure they have a comparison for Graco. Please let me know if they do. I would do titan all over again and stick with stuff I can buy through you. Thanks for all your work meanwhile. Please let me know with the tip and psi. I had a brass regulator and 5000psi oil gauge at the gun. Can I drop to 1000 psi with that 213 or 211 tip? I feel like we used way too much material. On the oil vs water based, I dont like spraying the oil and it’s mess / cleanup issues. What do you suggest for a water product in this case, if you were not testing the new oil stuff? Thanks!
Hi, would appreciate some advice here. Trying to decide what to use on a brand new cedar tongue and groove soffit above my porch. It’s covered and out of the element but want something that will preserve the natural wood color for as long as possible. Thought about cabot wood toned stain + sealer but not sure if I like the candy coating it seams to leave on it (seems like it would peel up?), I’ve used penofin blue label on fence and porch for years and it is great but darkens over time (not sure if it would do that on a soffit that is out of the sun/elements?), thinking maybe the red label penofin would look good? Looked into REady seal but not sure as some of the reviews make it sound like it doesn’t hold up well? then there is the question of do I pretreat the wood as it has a mill grain finish on it. I don’t know if just a very light sanding with like a 80 grit paper would suffice or if I need to do a pretreatment like the FIRST STEP PREP that penofin recommends? It scares me to have to wet down a brand new soffit area that is already installed overhead, then I have to let it dry and moisture could get trapped behind it? Am I overthinking this? HELP appreciated 😉 Running out of time, weather is changing.
Great article and audio….I have learned so much….Question: after perusal this article I think I will be using a water based stain…I unfortunately purchased a couple gallons of oil based sikkens ( PPQ ) 009 dark oak. What brand of water base product would you recommend that is equivalent to sikkens. Thanks…Ralph. PS..r stain brushes different then inside home brushes.
Which paint or stain is best to use on wood is the same as what type of horse a trainer would use to run in a particular horse race. Oils are excellent at penetrating timbers, while latex or acrylic stains are classed by trade painters as pretty surface sitters. Each have their good & bad points depending on climate/country. Most translucent water based stains have a short life span in harsh sunlight conditions whilst the so called solid opaque water based stains have excellent expansion & contraction qualities, blocking out UV rays.
Here in the north east many oil product are prone to mildew growth. The latex products are much better in that regard. I think the environmental regs have made the oil products not as good as they used to be. Arborcoat by Benjamin Moore is a great exterior stain that covers well and doesn’t grow mildew.
I haven’t even watched this article yet just straight to the comments and a couple things to add, the different products used in a water based stain are much better then they once were, with that’s said oil based stains are far worse than they once were. We are in that in between era where regulations and codes have really hurt the oil based stains you once loved. For instance, using Cabot as a example, absolutely trash for a deck stain from what I have used, my facia deck boards are great though they were also black pretty much, used a Bona wood oil with a hardening agent and 3 years later looks great. Problem is I’m charging more to apply that then something water based, time is money, you want to spend all day in exhaustion to put a oil down like me? Good for you do it yourself or pay me. Want something economical that will be less expensive and I come and reapply and maintain great, you want to sushigi bon it and cook the sugars out cool, pay me or do it yourself lol this guy has taught me a lot about painting and I appreciate it a bunch, at the end of the day just like this message it’s my opinion do with it what you will. #makeoilstainsgreatagain
Great advice here especially about the back brushing and laying heavy. I just got done restaining my fence. Used the Graco Ultramax Cordless with a FF514 tip. Worked pretty well minus having to fill the cup a billion times. Glad i chose water based after perusal this article. Tip for others would be that you will use ALOT of stain. I had never stained before and only bought two gallons. Ended up using 12 and blew my budget out of the water. Lesson learned.
Thanks for the great articles! I have a new rough cut shadowbox cedar fence that has had plenty of time to dry. Rain has caused dirt to spatter on the bottom of the fence in some areas. Should I use a pressure washer or a garden hose to remove the spattering? What brands do you recommend (ie: Thompon’s, Sherwin-Williams)? Thank you.
Great tips. Question: is the only way to apply linseed oil to a cedar fence by rolling the product on? I have been trying to find the answer. The guys at lowes and Home Depot don’t know the answer. Can it be sprayed on in an electric sprayer or pump sprayer? I have quite a large fence on my property and it’s 3 years old and starting to split.
Hey Chris,this vid seems misleading by name,(are they paying you to plug a product?) I noticed you didn’t mention sanding ? If the fence is cedar you would need to knock off the burs so when your back brushing your not getting drips and streaks from the fiber fingers .i been painting 20 yrs myself and appreciate a good prep for best results.