To refinish furniture, use a brush, rag, or foam brush to apply stain. Allow the stain to penetrate for a few minutes and wipe away the excess with a clean cloth. You may need to apply multiple coats until you reach your desired color. Begin by sanding uneven areas to remove the excess stain, then reapply the stain evenly to ensure a consistent color. Afterward, finish with a protective coat.
To clean furniture, use a gentle grease remover to clear away dirt, grime, or other contaminants. Solid stains are virtually identical to paints with only a few small differences that set them apart. They go onto your project as a thick layer of paint. When refinishing woodwork, it’s essential to address imperfections such as scratches, dents, and gaps before applying a new finish. Both stains maintain the texture of the wood, but solid-stains provide solid, even coverage. Semi-transparent finishes give a more traditional finish.
When finishing exterior-wood surfaces, latex paint and latex solid stains are potential choices. Incompatible stains can lead to poor adhesion or blotchy and uneven finishes. To fix uneven staining, sand the door to create a uniform surface and apply a wood conditioner before re-staining. A pre-stain conditioner can help with unevenness, but should be applied before the stain.
If you decide to stick with an oil-based stain, you should be fine with the standard prep. A mix of one color solid and another color semi-transparent gives the best match of color and opacity. If the drawers, top, or base of the furniture piece are different woods, the stain will look different on each section.
📹 What You Need to Know About Gel Stain
Every product is independently selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn an affiliate …
Does solid stain cover like paint?
Solid stain is a type of paint that aims to change the color of a surface while allowing the wood’s texture to show through. It is in the middle ground between paint and regular or semi-transparent stain, seeingps into wood more than paint but not as much as regular stain. It creates a solid-colored coating on wood without completely obscuring the underlying grain. If enough coats are applied, it can look like paint.
When choosing between paint and solid stain, consider the surface being coated. The best times to use solid stain are when the wood is fresh, as it penetrates better than paint and acts as its own primer. It is often used for new cedar siding, shake shingles, and fencing, as it can seal the wood without the use of a primer, saving time and money on the number of coats required.
However, paint offers better protection, durability, and a wider range of color selection. Solid stain fades faster than paint, so it may need to be repainted sooner. When applied over a surface that has already been painted or sealed, solid stain can often look like paint but has a shorter lifespan and less protective qualities. Therefore, paint is usually the best option, but solid stain can be useful when retaining the texture of wood and the surface being stained is bare.
What to do if wood stain is uneven?
In order to achieve a smooth and even surface, it is recommended that one commence with medium-grit sandpaper in order to remove any rough spots, imperfections, and old finishes. Subsequently, transition to a finer grit sandpaper, such as 220-grit, to achieve a polished finish.
Can you cover stain with a different color?
When staining a previously stained deck, choose the right type based on the current finish. If the existing stain is light, apply a darker stain color without additional preparation. If the stain is dark, consider a lighter solid stain to lighten up the color. If the stain is semi-transparent, cover it with a solid stain, or apply another solid finish stain.
Start the stain application by applying a small amount in a hidden area to test for adhesion. If the deck has a protective finish, the stain won’t adhere and the finish will need to be removed. Use a roller, paint pad, or brush to apply the stain in long, smooth strokes, working in sections and expanding outward. If the stain pools during application, cut back. Allow the first coat to dry thoroughly before adding the second one. A clear sealing product on top of the stained and thoroughly dried deck will extend its life, making the time and effort invested worthwhile.
What color stain is best to hide imperfections?
Darker stains, such as rich browns or ebony, are popular for hiding scratches by minimizing the contrast between the scratched area and the stained surface. However, darker stains can also show dust and dirt more readily. Warm undertones, like reddish browns or amber tones, can effectively mask scratches, especially on wood species with naturally warm hues. Highlighting the natural wood grain can create a visual distraction, drawing the eye away from minor scratches.
Oil-based stains penetrate deeper into the wood grain, filling minor scratches more effectively than water-based stains. Satin or matte finishes help diffuse light and minimize the appearance of imperfections. Regular maintenance, such as cleaning and sweeping, can help minimize dirt accumulation in scratches and reduce their visibility. Use a damp mop or approved cleaning solutions specifically formulated for hardwood floors.
What are the disadvantages of solid stains?
Solid color stains are non-penetrating and do not bond with wood, hiding wood grain like paint. They build a film that can peel, chip, and crack, and may not protect wood against water as effectively as penetrative stains. They should not be used on decking areas due to their lack of protection against weathering and wood rot. The choice between Semi-Transparent Stain and Solid Color Stain is a matter of preference, but determining the strengths of your deck is crucial when choosing the best stain.
Does wood stain hide imperfections?
Woodluxe Semi-Solid Stain is a semi-solid stain available in 75 colors that covers most imperfections while allowing some of the wood’s natural grain and texture to show through. It covers most imperfections and is suitable for decks, ensuring a smooth finish. To start your wood staining project, prepare by checking out the guide on staining decks and consulting Benjamin Moore store experts for any questions.
For the ultimate outdoor beauty, use Woodluxe® Exterior Stain, a premium stain that seals and protects wood with luxurious results. The stain is a result of years of technological innovation and research.
What is the best exterior color to hide imperfections?
Dark exterior paint offers the advantage of concealing dirt, stains, and imperfections, making it suitable for areas with strong winds, high dust, or pollution levels. It also hides small flaws or weathering damage better than lighter paint shades, making it suitable for older homes or those in extreme weather conditions. However, dark exterior paint may not be suitable for hotter climates, as it can keep the home naturally warmer, leading to increased heat up in areas with higher temperatures. Therefore, it is essential to consider the potential drawbacks before choosing a dark exterior paint for your home.
Will a solid stain cover old stain?
The choice of deck stain is crucial for determining the appearance, durability, and maintenance needs of your deck. A more transparent stain over a solid deck stain won’t yield the desired visual results, while a lighter-stained deck can be easily covered up with a darker, more solid stain. The color and transparency of the previous coat of stain will inform the color and transparency of the new stain you select.
The stain you choose also has practical implications. A transparent or semi-transparent stain will bind to bare wood but won’t adhere as strongly to a previous layer of solid stain. If you plan to cover a solid-stained deck with a new coating, choose another solid stain rather than a more transparent one.
Test a small amount of stain before applying it all. Perform a test run by applying a small amount of exterior deck stain on a less visible spot to see how well it sticks to the previously stained surface. If the new stain has trouble adhering, you may need to use a different product or remove previous coatings before applying it in full.
Although it may be unpleasant, it’s better to realize this early on and tackle the project correctly than to apply all the stain only to find out it didn’t go as planned.
Will solid stain cover imperfections?
A solid stain can rejuvenate an older deck with visible wear and tear, providing a fresh, new look without extensive repairs. It is particularly beneficial for high-traffic areas like decks or pergolas, as it stands up to wear and tear better than other types of stains. For those who prefer a uniform look with no visible wood grain, a solid stain is the best choice, offering a consistent color that complements the home’s exterior and landscaping.
What to do when stain is uneven?
The speaker demonstrates a high level of confidence in their ability to complete the task, despite acknowledging that it is not yet perfect. They propose the utilisation of the “undo” method to enhance the task further, employing the recently acquired competencies.
How do you stain wood with imperfections?
Before applying a stain to a piece of wood, it is essential to prepare it by sanding it to the desired smoothness and wiping it clean. If there are any cracks or gaps, wood glue should be applied before staining to bind the wood better. Wood glue can be applied after staining, but it may affect the coloration if the color is different from the stain.
Mix the stain according to the package instructions and apply it evenly using a brush or cloth along the grain of the wood. Allow the stain to dry for several minutes before wiping off excess with a lint-free cloth. Allow the stained wood to dry for 24-48 hours before proceeding with additional steps.
Finally, apply a coat of clear sealer along the grain of the wood and allow ample drying time between coats, at least 24 hours between each application. This process ensures a smooth and durable stain application.
📹 It’s WORTH THE HYPEhow to refinish wood without sanding
Refinish without sanding? Truly a holy grail item in todays video. So excited to add it to my arsenal of furniture flipping know how!
i’ve been refinishing restoring and conserving furniture for about 50 years. Restore a finish is a good product on certain items. I cannot stress enough when you use steel wool make sure it is #0000 steel wool and it is the kind that is manufactured for use on furniture. No Brillo pads. Also it is most important to rub/apply with the grain. not in circles or across 0:01 grain. Also it is quite useful to use a furniture paste wax in the same regard. Briwax is a good brand that can be purchased in color. Just make sure you buy the toluene free type. There are other waxes out there that are good. many of them you can buy in a neutral color and add a dab of artist oil colors to it to match your project. Have fun. Great article thank you.
Sometimes, various places on a piece of furniture don’t grab the Restore-A-Finish as well as you’d like. My recommendation would be to go over these spots lightly with about a 180 or 220 grit sandpaper to give the product more to grab onto. Clean the dust off and then rub in the Restore-A-Finish, let it sit a few minutes, then gently wipe it off. Let it dry a half hour and then follow it with Howard’s Feed-N-Wax. Put the wax on, let if dry about 30 minutes, then buff it off. And, yes, it truly is a miracle product. One thing I love about it, when used on older furniture or antiques is, it gives the ability to bring back a piece’s natural beauty without trying to make it look newly refinished. Many antiques are ruined because someone completely stripped it, sanded it all the way down, stained and then top-coated it – basically ruining the antique’s aged patina and character that took so long to appear. I mean, it’s an antique with aged tones and wood, for crying out loud – you don’t want to destroy its historic beauty – just re-freshen it a bit.
I used this on my kitchen cabinets, which had marks and chipped or worn away spots just due to wear and steam from cooking. I had looked up all kinds of other options, including replacing the cabinets, stripping and refinishing each door and replacing them, etc. When I found this product, I couldn’t believe it would work. It did. Every door and drawer face was transformed from rough to smooth, with a uniform, clear level of finish. The application was a matter of minutes, and the wiping away was equally simple. It saved me thousands of dollars, or at least a week of hard work sanding and refinishing. I did have a very different experience using it on a cheaply made wood table with a one-coat stained polyurethane finish. In that case, the liquid merely left weird streaks and didn’t help heal the chipped areas, and it obviously has to be stripped or sanded to the wood and redone. However, I did do two nice but old end tables, and had a really beautiful result, just like the cabinets. So my conclusion would be, use a bit on a hidden place like the inside of a leg or the underside first, and then if that works well, do the visible places. A great product and a time and labor saver, for sure.
Worked in a professional custom furniture build and antique repair shop a while back. People brought in really nice but often rough pieces. Refinishing can be pricey, especially if the piece is larger. So we used Restore-A-Finish as an alternative at times. It made me nervous to use steel wool, but if you use a really fine steel wool it does a great job. Wax and buff over the top and the piece looks tremendous. Highly recommend.
I think the better thing to know so that fellow DIY-ers can better understand what is happening is to understand that it’s actually Not wiping Away scratches it’s staining or filling them in. A good trick to know is that you can also use a paint brush with a fine tip to fill in the scratches and chips that aren’t absorbing as well. Old English is another classic brand that people are likely to find at most hardware stores and is much more affordable. Do a test area first though!
Don’t be afraid of using the feed and wax even if you plan to possibly change the finish of the piece down the road. It’s not a hard paste wax more like a nourishing lotion would be for dry skin. The wood soaks it right up and gives it some protection. I use it regularly on all my wood furniture in my home in Arizona. Since we have such low humidity it helps to keep vintage/antique furniture from drying out
I want to thankyou for airing this. We really wanted to redo our 1980’s kitchen cabinets but at the moment, money is better spent somewhere else. We took a leap of faith after perusal your article and couldn’t be more please with the results. I am amazed at the end result with so little effort. New cabinet knobs and they are looking brand new again. I am half way through and the difference is night and day. Thank you a million times.
It’s paraffin wax/oil thinned with highly toxic and carcinogenic products like MEK and benzene, and acetone. I would most certainly think that the paraffin is responsible for the wet, fresh look on heavy finish damage and all the thinners are intended to dissolve and reconstitute a very thin layer of existing finish and redistribute it. Different thinners in the mix making it compatible to reduce a wide range of finishes. Whether it be urethane, steel, glass, lacquer – I’ve used Meguiar’s 105 and 205 as a safe and more permanent alternative for years.
I used this product on some kitchen cabinets.. My son bought a house and the cabinets were filthy and marked up. Someone told him he would have to replace them. I scrubbed them up, applied Restor-a-finish and changed the hardware and they look beautiful. They are good quality cabinets that just hadn’t been cleaned and taken care of.
Love this stuff, but wish the fumes weren’t so noxious. I use a NIOSH mask and do whatever project outside or in the garage. Luckily, I haven’t had the need to use it on any built-in cabinets, but if I did, I’d remove the doors and use the Howard’s outside. Definitely open windows for good ventilation.
I have used this product (apply with fine steel wool) multiple times and absolutely love it! It “heals” the finish. I use the Howard Feed and Wax after the finishing process to keep the wood healthy…we live in the desert and the orange oil beeswax combination is the perfect combo for all wood furniture.
I use this all the time. While my kids are young and dinging my furniture I use this stuff. Once they’re out of the house, in college, I’ll take the time to refinish all of my beautiful mid century pieces. Until then, this stuff works great and saves my furniture from having to be sanded many times throughout the years.
Debbi here. I love your website and content, BUT…. Howard’s restore a finish is NOT a permanent fix for scratches or surface damage on wooden surfaces. It does do a lovely job to color the scratches but just like when I dye my hair, eventually the grey comes back. What I do like about this product it it helps to ‘nourish’ the wood and I use this product on my antique buffet and china cabinet.
I’m not sure if someone has already made this comment, but just in case… It best to “pour” the product out of cans shaped liked this, with the opening in the middle top of the can, towards one of the broad “sides” of the tin, rather than the narrow “ends”. It doesn’t make such a mess on the top of the can that way and also pours out more smoothly rather than in “glug-glugs”. 🙂
I love ALL of your flips and finishes. I want to turn my orange pine ceiling into a driftwood look. It is a cathedral steep sloped ceiling so I do not want to sand it because of the mess and it would take forever. I was thinking about your taupe wash technique with the Stone Lion in flat. I also wonder how to prep the wood? I was thinking bleach or just the Palmolive Oxy? You’re amazing. Keep up the good work!!!
Working to restore a Zenith 960 that appears to have lived a life in a heavily smoke filled environment (heck maybe a bar the way it smells), but has minor blemishes throughout the finish. As a test I oiled it and it looked nice for a few seconds so any scratches may not be as bad as your server. How has this finish stood the test of time since you posted the article? I was thinking of using one of the colors and applying with maybe 220 steel wool…thoughts?
The server was a real encouragement. We have the exact same piece as part of a dining room set that was handed down to my wife from her grandmother and it is her most prized possession and I wasn’t sure how to make it come back to life and now I do! It’s in better condition given it’s special place to my wife but the luster has really faded and needs a refresh. Now I have the perfect plan for it, and the matching table and chairs! Thank you so much!!
I used to use it and sorta forgot about it, but tried it again recently on an old piece. It makes you feel like a magician doesn’t it? You will start going through your house looking for pieces to use it on. The Feed N Wax step afterwards is amazing and very satisfying. I used the walnut color on several different darker wood finishes and it worked great.
I love your articles. I think it’s good to know that Restor-a-finsh is a bad word in MCM restoration groups. The dye in the RAF will stain the areas that the finish has failed or is scratched. Because MCM pieces are mostly toned lacquer, this makes it much harder to do a full authentic refinish on MCM. A couple of y ears before learning the above, I bought RAF for my Ethan Allen desk that I bought at a thrift store for $40. The effect was temporary for sure. I don’t say all this to discourage you- I just wouldn’t want RAF to cause you customer complaints down the road. 💗
You can do the same thing with any oil stain. Mixed with tung oil or wipe on poly, it would not need anything else. I have seen people buy a bunch of old office desks at an auction and wipe scratches out with stain, not top coat, and resell for lots of money. I am sure that any refinished knows this, so figuring out what ingredients are in the product, is ess for understanding its performance and limitations. Also, comparing it with old methods of wiping a stain or stain poly wipe mix, is necessary to not call bs on the article and the product.
Never heard of this project, but was SO glad to find your article. I bought the mahogany color to use on my little thrifted table which was horribly, deeply scratched. I did a quick application and had results just as impressive as yours. I only had the 0 steel wool, so I didn’t press hard. Going out today to get the 0000 fine. Wow, I love this stuff. I’m going to get more colors, and keep this on hand. I love wood, not paint, don’t like sanding, and don’t like scratches. Thank you!!!
I am so glad I found this. I have several pieces in my home that are solid cherry wood and were expensive pieces of furniture when new. Over the years my cats have scratched up the finish rather badly and I can’t afford to have them restored This may be just the product I need Thank you for sharing this with us.
This stuff is beyond fantastic. I have my grandma’s jacobean dining set and buffet which just needed some love – all the pieces are in great shape. Years ago, I had a very in depth chat with a piano tuner who also restores old pianos. He NEVER strips and refinishes antiques – he restores. I cleaned the pieces as he does – with murphy’s oil soap and super fine steel wool – this was after a really good cleaning – still got a good bit of grime. Then clear warm water and cloths to remove any residue. I applied Restore-A-Finish. Two hours later, I followed up with Feed-N-Wax, applied this wax to table top, waited about 30-40 minutes and rubbed it down. The next day, I applied a second coat. Everything looks absolutely gorgeous. It looks like what it is – an old piece with a history! I have an antique dresser and vanity that is next. I couldn’t be more pleased with the results. I was thrilled when I realized Lowe’s carried both products at very reasonable prices.
I used this for a vintage piece I got off of the internet. I didn’t use the steel wool but just a cloth and it helped it 50-60 percent. Do use the wax. I’ve used this on my kitchen cabinets without the steel wool cause the cabinets are mostly in very good condition, but the wax is awesome for kitchen cabinets as I feel as though I protects the finish pretty well from kitchen elements (heat, grease, food).
Glad you found this product. I came across it about 2 years ago, when I had to refinish a front door that had a giant stained glass embedded in it. I did not want to try and sand the whole thing because I was afraid of breaking the glass. Found this on a Home Depot shelf and tried it using only a microfiber towel and it turned out beautifully. Didn’t even have to use too much of the can. I used it again recently on a very, very old silverware box my mom needed me to fix. Big box, horribly scratched and the bottom was coming off. Between fixing the bottom and adding 2 small latches, the cherry on top was how every scratch seemed to just vanish using this product. I really like that they have more than one color to try and match the type of wood you’re fixing. Great job, may your business continue to grow exponentially!! New sub absolutely.
I call Howard Feed n Wax my magical oil! I have 3 bottles in my house right now. Wipe a little on clean stainless steel appliances and then wipe off with a clean cloth – you’ll have appliances with no fingerprints! Treat your clean vintage tools, yard tools, metal buckets, etc., with a thorough coat of oil. When you wipe it off, you’ll have a light protective finish that your treasures will love! And, it doesn’t smell bad!
Hi there, I am just wondering if you know whether or not I can use this product to help hide the two tiny burn marks on the top of my wooden end table top? They are super tiny burn marks and the rest of the table is fine other than the basic wear and tear that is only really showing up in the way of the finish which was used in the factory, has been rubbed off from friction probably from use of improper cleaning products and really has only been lifting off right over the natural wood grain lines.. I have a physical disability and I cannot physically work with my hands or even really start a big wood project. I was hoping that I might be able to just use this product only over the two small burn marks on the one table and not even have to cover the whole table with the product in order to use this product to try to make the marks look less noticeable.. any suggestions?
Ok I have some shellac finished walnut pieces that are 140 years old and have turned black which is not a desirable “patina” it’s just ugly. I have been using alcohol to remove the black shellac which works but is such a mess and I was wondering if there was a one step product that would take the blackout but leave a cleaned up finish. I doubt THIS is it but what IS?
Love this! Thanks for sharing this is gonna help me no end. I have a tip for pouring it out, I noticed you trying not to get it on the lip of the can. If you press the cloth or wool firmly over the opening and tip the can up and down quickly, the cloth/wool gets a quick dose without the spills. Repeat until you have the amount you want on your cloth.
I’m honestly surprised to hear the accolades for Restore-A-Finish. I find it looks great for about a 1/2 an hour and then the same old scars show back up like I never buffed it with the #0000 steel wool. I’d lovd to to be proven wrong so I’ll watch all the way to the end and amend if you have extra tips or tricks that make this the wonder-product it claims. 🙂
I’m Restor-A-Finish’s #1 fan! I first used it when someone gave me a Chippendale secretary with book cabinet. It was really scratched up and I dreaded the stripping and sanding. Someone recommended Restor-A-Finish and wow! did it work! The finish was beautiful. The only part I sanded down was the desk writing surface which was badly water- and ink-stained. Follow with Feed N Wax.
This is amazing! Did you use different colors for the different pieces of furniture, or was all this done with the same bottle of Restore A Finish? I have a very old hope chest that was passed down to me that has scratches from my parents’ dog (lab/pitbull mix). It’s a medium shade of wood. The inside is cedar, but I’m not sure what the rest is. I just know it’s not oak. I have no idea what color to use for this. I also have a mahogany sleigh bed I bought at a yard sale.
I used this years ago to restore my wood foyer floor. It was faded and drab looking from the sun. Some scratches but not bad. It looked brand new after I finished the job. Very impressive product. Also used it on my cherry end tables that were sun faded. Worked great. Need to do it on my pine and maple end tables now. Time for a refresh. I think the quality of furniture today is so inferior so I’m keeping alł my old stuff. Thanks for sharing the info. Greetings from PA.
I haven’t used this product, but I will! One reason is that it fills but retains the original scratches. SO much history. I can highlight (or low-light, actually) the history before finishing. All pieces have a story and sometimes, we get a huge history, like this piece. It can be refinished, but with the history intact … those are the best pieces.
Been using this for at least 40 years. I also keep some mahogany Howard’s restore a finish around the house to freshen up my mahogany and cherry pieces when they get kitty scratches etc. Those two shades are interchangeable. My advice is to make sure you wipe all of the residue off, especially if you’re going to put glass on top, because the oily residue will look funky under the glass. Also, the oil will attract dust and grime. Don’t overuse the product and buff it ALL off. Another Howard’s product that I’ve used on dry, thirsty antiques, etc is the Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner. It’s food grade mineral oil and natural waxes, so it’s light and not gunky, or stinky like paste wax. Of course I also use it to condition my chopping boards.
I read (this) (pasted below) from someone’s webpage, & was wondering if anyone had any problems refinishing a piece after Restor-a-finish was previously applied? From L. Fenton’s Kitchn page: (“Restor-A-Finish eventually bleeds into the wood, permanently staining the furniture and making it impossible to professionally refinish properly later,” she says. Essentially, the product melts the existing lacquer finish down and redistributes it.)
I’ve used this product and it does, indeed, do a remarkable job. You might want to try Formby’s Furniture Refinisher on another piece–again, an absolutely amazing result on scratched and abused furniture. These products essentially dissolve old-school finishes, like varnish, shellack, French polishing, etc, without damaging the wood itself. They will usually take out stains and water marks, too, as long as they’re on the surface.
Thank you for this article. My wife and I are looking for a way to refinish our dining room table without all of the work sanding and refinishing brings up. I have two questions I’m hoping you, or someone perusal, can answer: 1. How long have you waited to verify the damage (stains, scratches, etc.) is permanently fixed? The reason I ask is because I recently tried a method from another YouTube website, and it looked great…for about 2 weeks. The stains are coming back, and my new search brought me to this article. 2. Is your method from this article better than what the product manufacturer recommends? In this article, you are using steel wool directly on the wood. I went to the link you provided for this product, and the listing shows the method as to “spread evenly with a wax sponge”.
I have never restored a piece of furniture but I have a few I have been wanting to. It all felt very daunting until I stumbled across your article.i bought the cherry wood finish for my dresser and couldn’t believe the dresser. I have 6 handles left to brasso clean but the item is already looking incredible. Thankyou. I will now check out your website and existing articles to see what other handy hints and tips I can learn
I am curious as to how this is chemically and mechanically working in simple terms. For example, it dissolves the existing finish mildly, which allows that original finish to fill in scratches, which essentially means you are not impacting the actual color/tone of the orignal finish, just re-distributing it. That would be as opposed to this providing a “wetting effect” to bared wood and then applying a protective shine coat over it (similar to clear coat over moder car finishes). Understanding that would add confidence that I’m not about to change the color or tone of something which has value….
I used Restore-A-Finish on my entire kitchen, it worked like a charm, and made my cabinets look like new. I thought I was going to have to spend thousands restoring my cabinets. The down side it smells really bad while working with it. Definitely need good ventilation, and I recommend a ventilator. Also if you are doing a project inside your home, do it at a time when everyone else is gone.
I used this product on my spinning wheel when I got it to put the original finish on it. I took it to outdoor demonstrations for over 15 years, poor thing was exposed to all kinds of weather, sat in the car in summer and winter at times, was carted through mud and grass and dirt, and it held up beautifully with an occasional rub down of Howard’s Feed-N-Wax for maintenance. So for a product that was so easy to apply it held up amazingly well through way more punishment than most furniture will ever see.
Glad you finally discovered this! I used to live in an area of historic homes Our craftsman style house had drop-dead gorgeous woodwork but the cost to refinish was prohibitive. EVERYONE used this—one couple had a humongous mansion & they spent a year using gallons of this—I have never seen s0 much beautiful oak woodwork, & my house was pretty good b/c the builder was a carpenter & did gorgeous quarter-sawn oak woodwork w/ huge crown mouldings in the living room, maple in the office, & the classic douglas fir elsewhere.
Why is restore a finish bad? “Restor-A-Finish eventually bleeds into the wood, permanently staining the furniture and making it impossible to professionally refinish properly later,” she says. Essentially, the product melts the existing lacquer finish down and redistributes it. The scratches in the wood are still there, just disguised temporarily, linseed oil mixed with turpentine or Watco oil will do the same thing this product does- temporarily hide the scratches. To properly refinish it needs to be sanded to bare wood to remove the scratches, restained and clear coated. Sorry, but as 25 year woodworker I can tell you there’s no shortcuts and these gimicky petroleum distilate and chemical concoctions that boast you can “restore” an antique dresser thats all scratched ang gouged by just wiping this stuff on is a joke. The SDS sheet shows this information; SAFETY DATA SHEET 2. Hazards Identification Flammable liquids Category 2 Physical hazards Category 2 Serious eye damage/eye irritationHealth hazards Category 2 Carcinogenicity Category 2 Reproductive toxicity Category 2 Specific target organ toxicity, repeated exposure; C Acetone Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic Distillates (petroleum), light hydrotreated Ethylbenzene Isopropanol Methyl ethyl ketone Xylene The exact percentage (concentration) of composition has been withheld as a trade secret in accordance with paragraph (i) of §1910.1200. WARNING: California Proposition 65 – CRT: Listed date/Carcinogenic substance Ethylbenzene (CAS 100-41-4) Listed: June 11, 2004 California Proposition 65 – CRT: Listed date/Developmental toxin Toluene (CAS 108-88-3) Listed: January 1, 1991 Basically it’s a mixture of several solvents, including isopropyl alcohol, acetone and xylene, plus asphaltum and other petroleum distillates What is a Level 2 health hazard?
For those that used it on a dining table, does it take a long time to dry and should I be weary of staining clothes or skin even days after applying? Our family uses the dining table as our EVERYTHING table, so I’d hate to see their homework, sleeves, toys, food and other random things look like we pooped on it 😀
I’ve got a quick question… did you do a deep clean of the pieces before using the restore-a-finish? And, if so, what did you use? I have a 1924 Victor Victrola…stereo/entertainment center… it has everything still, the radio and the crank turntable…I think the Howard’s restore… would do better than stripping it, etc. Have you ever done other types of pieces apart from dressers and tables? Well that ended up being a longer question than I anticipated…lol…😂
This is such a great product ! I use this after a good cleaning to see how intact or healthy the finish is. It’s also a good temporary treatment if you don’t have time for intensive refinishing. { a number of pieces need to be studied to make a decision on what the direction is that i’ll take, but i don’t want a dirty piece sitting in my home.} Just a heads up on the feed-N-wax. Don’t confuse this product with silicone cleaners Nor varnish. A true wax finish is so slight that it needs renewal every several months to protect the look you want. So, go for it and learn how to properly apply it and your furniture will always be at it’s best ! Great demo !
omg…. amazing! would this work on kitchen cabinets?? we’ve rented for 10 years and kids scratched up the cupboards up quite a bit! Do you need to match the product … and if so, how exactly must it match? Also is that steel wool you are using to apply the product… from other vids… like a 000 steel wool or?
We have something similar in Germany called Renowell. It’s a petroleum based product like this one which will blend out superficial scratches and scuffing pretty well, while leaving the entire surface with a wet, freshly oiled look. Though I have to say, this product looks even more effective. But if it’s anything like Renowell, that freshly oiled look will not last forever and any significant scratching will eventually dry out and become visible again – thus it’s really only a temporary substitute for re-finishing. Great when used as a color enhancer on dry wood though.
I have used this product on my kitchen cabinets. In 2020 we had a slow pipe leak in our upstairs bathroom that saturated one wall in our kitchen and traveled underneath the kitchen floor. So the remediation entailed removing two walls including the cabinets and the several layers of flooring. Since only one cabinet back was damaged the insurance company only paid to repair the cabinet back. The cabinets were from the 70’s and were a dark walnut. I bought the Howard’s restore a finish and it did cover the scratches. I filled in any holes or gouges with filler and used a touch up stain that the prior homeowner left. I did use the wax on the cabinets. The cabinets still look great 4 years later.
Yes, I have used Howards Restore A Finish. Yes, it can make damaged items look much better with minimal effort. But no, it’s not as good as refinishing. I recently did an antique mahogany dresser that was quite marked & stained. I initially tried restore a finish but as a lot of the shellac had turned black, possibly from furniture wax & dust, the results were rather disappointing. So I ended up steel wooling the black away as much as I could without taking it down to the wood. Then put new shellac over that. It came up really nice, not as nice as stripping & refinishing, but the customer wanted to retain the aged look. So doing it that way retained the bruises & some of the discolouration but made the grain glow with light again. It was a lot of work to do it that way though but I’m actually retired & not doing this for money. It was a significant sentamental piece. The pay off was her gasp of astonishment.
I’ve read through many comments but nobody has mentioned how long the finish lasts and does the dry product eventually sink and the scratches start to re-appear if it hasn’t been heavily sanded down? Even when dry does it have a sticky texture? What happens if you press it heavily with a finger, does it leave a finger mark impression? It’s not a French Polish (Shellac) and it’s not a Cellulose Ketone Resin product as that would require more skill to apply than just rubbing it over. You can obtain the same scratch cover with WD40 but it dries off and the scratches re appear. Here in the UK we have a product called Topps Scratch Cover and that darkens the finish and doesn’t keep a good shine either gloss or matt. I’d love to know what is in this product.
Hi, I am upset for you and I am sure you would say you don’t mind,,but an unnamed chalk paint you tuber hacked your “pottery barn wood grain look EXACTLY,including wise broom for grading,WITHOUT a shout out to you’ve only seen you do this method,Its yours, at least a reference to you would be polite -Just saying
…I used this for years,…( I have been painting and re- doing Furniture, long before it became ” A Business ” – 33+ years ) .. The thing with this Product, you have to often give it a second pass… let dry. Then use the Howard’s ” Feed n Wax ” afterwards. Also,on some pieces, ..its advisable to lightly sand before using this Product, so it has a better ” adhesion factor.”
Curious. You put it on with a Brillo pad. Once this completely dries, does it stay as we see it on the article or do you end up seeing the marks more? The brillo pad, to me, would only scratch the wood even moreso. So I guess I really am not seeing how the product actually takes care of the surface scratches permanently.
This to be just a solvent that moves the product that’s already on the wood around to knock-down & fill in the lighter scratches and remove the white lines of the deeper scratches. So it is something you look at from 10 ft away under normal house lighting and it looks fine, hell we’re not millionaires spending tens of thousands of dollars for furniture but repairing a finish so you can live with it is what you’re looking for, if so this is all you need.
Some might consider it a bandaid, but it is a very good bandaid. Have used it on some things with great success and others indifferent,. It depends on alot of things including what the original finish is, and the amount of damage or wear. But it does not hurt to try it as it is not like some irreversible process like a totally new finish attempt. Then their wax and feed is a great product for the last step.
The truth is this stuff is mostly snake oil. You could buy some wood stain and scratch on it on with wire wool and that would probably do the same job. It mostly depends on what the finish was originally, and if you get lucky with restor-a-finish being long term compatible with it…. Or it just wipes away, or goes sticky. On that subject you’d probably be way better off applying coloured shellac, because that sticks to absolutely everything. Nothing is better than actually stripping something.
I have heard the negative on this is that it immediately looks good, but then does not keep the effect very long. I guess it fades and dries quicker than other finishes. I guess it would work for a quick flip but not for a long quality finish. If folks have had a different experience after a year or so, pls let me know.
Thanks for the article. The refinishing looks great on the cabinets. I have an old desk it is kinda blemish and becoming sticky. Despite I have wipe it several times it is still sticky. How sticky one may ask? Well if you leave a book on the table or any object at all come back the next day and try to pick it up you will find there’s a bit of adhesion. It is kinda weird. Would this product remove the sticky stuff and restore the table?
Hi – I’m new here but impressed with your obvious knowledge of wood refinishing. As I’m subscribed now, can you refer me to a article (if you’ve done one) on how to remove the damage on my acacia dining table from a plastic cover that was on it for – hate to say it, 2 years? I removed it the other day and was heartbroken to see this. I read it’s called plasticization migration and it left big patches of sticky, shiny areas. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I know people who use and like this…but heads up—it’s still a big ole bottle of petroleum distillates. For antique wood you don’t need to do that, all u need is cut linseed oil, & it’s just as painless (UNLESS someone has repeatedly used silicones synthetic waxes or petroleum distillates…) Depends what your priorities are.
I tried this product, and it unfortunately did not work at all. I cleaned the surfaces, but I think the wood just wouldn’t take it well. I’ve seen it work on other things. Please keep in mind it’s not a miracle cure. I tried this product on multiple surfaces: drawers, cabinets, and furniture. I’m sorry to post that it didn’t work, but I think it is important to share.
I have used this product in the past but have been pretty selective in its use since its basically just a pretty good color cover up. However the finish is still scratched and dinged and uneven under that color and can be easily seen when light reflects from the surface. As long as you are just doing a quick cover up rather than a true refinishing its quite good, but no miracles come out of the tin.
I have some I intended to use, but wasn’t sure if it would make sanding more difficult if my landlord decided to refinish the cabinets later. Now I wish I’d gone ahead and done this years ago, because the landlord has never refinished any of the cabinets or agreed to pay for supplies even if I did all the work. I’ve just been living with and constantly galled by the damaged finish on the early 1980’s golden oak kitchen and bathroom cabinets in my home. Can I use this and not have to vacate my home due to the fumes for a day or more, along with my cat?
God if you would like to partner, I have a bit of Gold. California has a generation of can’t stay or work in one place, can’t afford to buy and can’t afford to live they can’t afford to have belongings. The market is flooded with just beautiful solid wood furniture but no one wants it. Most of it is absolutely free! You would be in furniture heaven lol
I’d rather have old school wooden furniture that will not fall apart if you try & move it when filled with nothing or just clothing that has hard to see fine scratches. Buying or just renting a pickup truck to get a whole room set of real not made of particle flakeboard furniture prices are going to skyrocket over the next few years imo. And doing something to make it something you do want in your house is great, & as time goes by you can upgrade it by doing deeper restoring, ie, sanding, adding replacing &/or adding a new veneer, or paying someone to do it for you… either/anyway you do it, once you have it home, you can take your time & do what you want. But please do not paint natural grain wood pieces, wooden furniture value to most is that it is made out of wood, making it look as if it is make out of plastic destroys its value in many people’s eyes. And make sure you spray for bed bugs, & the red roaches including something that kills their eggs. In the past I would spray the furniture & wrap it in a plastic tarp outside, and tape & tie the tarp tightly closed to keep the spray fumes inside along with anything wanting to get out & head straight to your house … why you do not do this inside of your garage, there could be hundreds that could be ready to make a break for it once they smell the fumes.
Did you use the ‘walnut’ color restore a finish product on all three? ( I bought some in cherry, mahogany and maple but haven’t tried it yet) the walnut ( if that’s what you used on all) seemed to match perfectly on all three pieces even though they did not start out the same color. Thanks. I’m shocked at how great they turned out with such a relatively easy process.
I use it on my kitchen cabinets about every few years. Brightens things up. I am not a fan of artificial wood colors like grey or a phony beige. Reminds me of the pickled look cabinets of the late eighties early nineties. Cheapens the piece and will certainly date it. Wood should be warm not a fake cool.
Great articles. I do have a question for you so I hope you see this. I bought a huge Toscana dining table from Pottery Barn because I needed a super big table – seats 12 with leaves. It looks like this is not real wood and I am afraid to paint it. The color is light tan and doesn’t work with my room. I have 10 textured reproduction Windsors from David Smith Workshops that are very authentic and have a unique old world crackle finish so I really don’t want to mess up the table. Chairs are maple backed and some all black. I’m going for a dark brownish black with maybe some reddish undertones for the table. It has a ton of graining but it isn’t real wood. Any suggestions on what kind of finish to use and do you see any problem with painting over this “fake wood”. Thanks so much.