Walnut timber is a durable, strong, and stable hardwood used for both interior and exterior furniture. Its attractive wood grain and color make it an attractive choice for interior decoration. However, it is prone to warping and termites, making it unsuitable for outdoor furniture. Teak wood is a better choice due to its rot and fungus resistance.
Walnut wood is stable, hard, and not heavy, making it suitable for both interior and exterior decoration. However, it is important to note that all wood deteriorates when exposed to the elements, so it is recommended to avoid placing walnut furniture outside.
Teak and cherry are great outdoor choices, with walnut being more expensive but becoming even better due to its durability. Acacia is cheap and rugged but prone to rotting on wet ground. Black walnut, a rot-resistant hardwood, has been used for exterior applications for many years and is considered one of the best choices for interior use. American Black Walnut is most suited for interior use, but it may be too expensive for fine furniture.
Walnut is fairly durable, strong, hard, and heavy, but it will weather to a silver grey if left untreated. Heartwood (not sapwood) does well outdoors, but it will turn gray quickly without a good UV protector. All wood tends to deteriorate when exposed to the elements, making it not recommended to place walnut furniture outdoors.
In conclusion, walnut wood is a versatile and durable option for both interior and exterior furniture. However, it is important to consider the strengths and weaknesses of each wood type when selecting the best wood for outdoor use.
📹 Your Ultimate Guide To WALNUT LUMBER – How to Buy, Use & Finish It
I think it’s time we talk about walnut, woodworkers of YouTube! Yeah, I totally get that most woodworkers who use hardwoods are …
Is walnut a high end wood?
Walnut wood is a premium hardwood, often used for formal and executive office furniture due to its strength, grain, and color. It is often finished in a dark or natural stain and is valued for its smooth finish. Walnut wood can get lighter over time, with a rich honey color, but the change in color is not as pronounced as cherry wood’s patina. It is also an excellent candidate for musical instruments, such as guitars and violins, and is suitable for steam bending. However, it is not available in long lengths and has more knots and sap wood than other hardwoods.
Is walnut suitable for outdoor use?
Walnut wood is durable and resistant to rot, but it tends to deteriorate when exposed to the elements. It is not recommended to place walnut furniture outdoors. Some treated woods are suitable for outdoor furniture, but annual maintenance is necessary. When buying walnut furniture, ensure it is genuine and matches the color of the wood. Some examples are sold as walnut due to its similarity to natural wood.
Is Walnut wood waterproof?
Walnut is a dense wood that adds a classy, dramatic look to darker-themed spaces or contrasts in airy rooms. It’s ideal for interior furniture, floors, and countertops that need to withstand water. A well-chosen finish can protect it from moisture-related warping and checking. For outdoor use, choose a finish that penetrates the wood’s surface for a long-lasting, long-lasting finish. For woods intended for outdoor use, the Owatrol range is recommended. The best products for waterproofing wood depend on whether the wood is indoors or outdoors.
Is walnut better than oak?
Oak is renowned for its durability and resistance to moisture and rot, whereas walnut is more robust but less dense, rendering it more susceptible to dents and scratches.
Does walnut wood last outside?
Walnut wood is durable and rot-resistant, but it deteriorates when exposed to the elements, making it a good choice for outdoor furniture. Some consumers choose specially treated wood for outdoor furniture, but due to the intensive care required, it is recommended to use maintenance-free alternatives like Polywood outdoor furniture. These pieces are made from recycled high-density plastic and come with a lifetime guarantee. Walnut wood is not endangered, but it takes over 100 years to mature.
Early settlers used walnut wood for homes, cabinets, fence posts, railroad tracks, and plane propellers. Today, there are fewer trees, so companies like ours source the wood from sustainable sources, such as Ohio, Indiana, and their neighbors.
How long does walnut wood last?
Walnut wood furniture is eco-friendly due to its sustainably-sourced domestic variety, which reduces carbon footprint and prevents tropical deforestation. Quality craftsmen design walnut furniture that lasts over 50 years, unlike cheap particle board pieces that can be easily thrown away. Care for walnut wood furniture depends on the wood finish used, with regular dusting being beneficial but avoiding commercial cleaners.
Oil-finished pieces require natural Danish linseed oil at least once a year, especially in warmer climates. Learn more about different wood finishes and how to care for each one to ensure a long-lasting and durable piece. Avoid commercial cleaners and use natural Danish linseed oil for oil-finished pieces.
What is the longest lasting exterior wood?
Wooden outdoor furniture is generally considered the most durable and rot-resistant type, with hardwoods like ipe and teak being the most durable. These woods can last decades with minimal maintenance, making them ideal for outdoor use. However, it is important to note that any wood outdoors will eventually degrade over time, so it is recommended to use natural oil finishes that can be replenished. Plastic clear coats can eventually yellow and start peeling off, making them unrepairable.
To maintain wooden outdoor furniture, it is essential to clean it with soapy water at the start of spring and apply a couple of coats of your chosen wood stain or paint. Some people let their furniture age naturally, giving it a rich golden brown color, but personally, I prefer a rich golden brown color. Applying an all-weather varnish, such as BEHR Premium Transparent Weatherproofing All-In-One Wood Finish, with a repeat application in Spring every 2-3 years, can help seal up the wood from outdoor elements like UV light, rain, snow, wind, and hail.
Choosing the right wood species reduces the need for regular care, but it does not mean regular care won’t extend the life of furnishings or improve their appearance. All furnishings should be given an occasional cleaning to get rid of dirt and grime, using a dilute solution of Murphy’s oil soap and water. Silicone-based cleaners and polishes are the culprits, so avoid them. Do not soak or flood the furniture while cleaning.
The most severe damage occurs from direct sunlight, melting snow and ice, or standing water. To extend the usefulness of furnishings, they should be protected from direct rain, snow, and sunshine. UV rays break down all woods eventually, and excessive moisture is necessary for fungi, mold, and insects that break down wood. It is best to keep a moisture barrier between wood furniture and the ground, as water will wick up from the soil.
It is best to bring wood furniture indoors for the winter, as melting snow can keep it damp for weeks on end. The freeze/thaw cycle can also damage joints and loosen screws. Do not drape the wood with plastic, as dew can form underneath and cannot evaporate quickly enough for the wood to dry.
Lastly, a water-proof topcoat, such as Le Tonkinois, can extend the life of any furnishings. Jacob Aune’s personal favorite is Le Tonkinois, which is easy to apply, water-proof, and holds up better than most spar varnishes available at home improvement centers.
Which wood is most water resistant?
Teak and Cedar are two popular water-resistant wood types and species. Teak is a tropical hardwood known for its durability and resistance to water, making it ideal for outdoor furniture and decking. Its natural oils repel water, preventing warping, cracking, and becoming brittle over time. Cedar, on the other hand, is lightweight yet strong, offering resistance to moisture and insect damage. It is lightweight yet strong, making it suitable for siding, fencing, and outdoor furniture. Both types of wood are suitable for outdoor projects in regions with high humidity or frequent rain.
What are the disadvantages of walnut wood?
Walnut wood is a popular choice for homeowners seeking a dark, rich flooring surface with its chocolate-brown hues. Its natural color makes it easy to stain and requires less maintenance. However, it is more expensive than other hardwoods and is more susceptible to scratches and dents over time. Walnut floors may require more regular sweeping and cleaning due to their ability to reveal dust and debris.
American Walnut and Black Walnut floors are interchangeable terms for hardwood floors made from walnut trees in the United States, but they are made with wood from the American Black walnut tree. Both types of wood are more susceptible to scratches and dents over time, making them suitable for high-traffic areas.
Is walnut more durable than oak?
Oak is renowned for its durability and resistance to moisture and rot, while walnut is strong but slightly less dense, rendering it more susceptible to dents and scratches. Consequently, oak is the leading choice.
How rot resistant is walnut?
The heartwood of the walnut tree, renowned for its resistance to decay, has been employed in a multitude of practical industrial applications, particularly in the past.
📹 How to Choose the Best Finish for Outdoor Projects
What is the best outdoor finish? If you’re planning on adding some furniture to your porch or outdoors, Chris Marshall explains …
1:05 – how is walnut named 1:56 – how to buy & select 2:12 – about the tree 3:00 – about knots, figure, and grain issues 3:22 – color issues 3:58 – steaming walnut 4:54 – color sorting 5:59 – how to get consistent walnut 7:03 – solid lumber means expecting inconsistencies 8:14 – tips & tricks to working with walnut 10:00 – finishing tricks and ideas Okay, yes this is a pretty long one so hopefully this will help! Many thanks for perusal, and hit us with your questions –
Allot of good tricks and ideas. Glad I found this article. I have walnut, oak, elm and maple trees that grow on my property. I just go in the back yard and cut up a fallen tree when it falls. I cut blanks and keep them in the shed. It would be very expensive if I had to purchase it. I make allot of thing with walnut and elm. I like the grain in elm wood. it looks cool.
Thanks for sharing. I got 7 6 to 7 for thin walnut logs curing to eventually be carved into walking sticks. Normally I would just use a mineral oil on them, let that soak in, then use an enamel high gloss clear to make the finish look like there is a layer of glass melted on the walking sticks. Thanks for sharing!!!
Great article! We just bought a walnut “fireplace” mantle – 68x10x5 and we’re looking to do some treatment before installing. Based on your article, I’m thinking 3-5 coats of Tung Oil varnish followed by a couple coats of crystal clear paste wax. Thoughts? Can we ADD additional coats of Tung oil varnish AFTER applying the paste wax. TIA
UK here. I’ve recently developed a hobby of building solid body ukulele’s/cigar box guitars. My first few were from pine board (cos its cheap), but then I ordered some American Black Walnut. The difference in woods is astounding, and that walnut is beautiful to work (and I’m using the most basic of hand tools), and it feels amazing. When the instrument was done, I didnt even finish the wood (that that I’d really know how, I’m a total beginner). Even though the instrument is not perfect (some of the lines are a few mm off), its still my favorite, just because of how the wood feels.
I have a black walnut slab that’s been sitting in the garage for a year now. Got it from a fellow woodworker that I bought a jointer and planer from when I first started in woodworking. We were discussing projects we were working on and I mentioned that I had been working with soft woods primarily while honing my skills. He kinda gave me a funny look and asked what I could learn about woodworking from using things like pine and cedar. I told him that I’d learned how to sharpen a chisel really well and he said there’s no way because soft woods wouldn’t even dull a chisel. I had my chisel set in my toolbox in my truck and challenged him to see who’s chisels were sharper, and told him to even sharpen his chisel on the spot. He did, and I grabbed my chisels and a block of pine. His chisel did a fairly good job of cutting the pine. Then I used mine to flatten the cut end and shocked him. I cut through the end grain without crushing any of the fibers and it left a glass smooth surface. So he gave me $100 off the price of the tools I came to buy and gave me a 6ft x 16″ slab of 8/4 walnut and said that he looks forward to seeing what I do with it. I’ve since ventured into using oak and poplar in a few projects. But I’m saving that slab for something special so I can impress him on Instagram eventually.
I have to say by far, walnut is my favorite out of all the woods. The machinability is amazing. For finishing walnut, I use Biosheild hard oil #9. It’s application is for hardwood floors, so it will hold up to use over time. I really enjoy it because it really makes all the grain figure and colors pop. It’s also great because you don’t have to top coat with a poly, you can burnish the finish out to make it shine!
I’m new to woodworking. I’ve been given all I want of a walnut tree that was cut down a couple to 3 years ago. The logs at the max are about 10″ to 14″ in diameter and anywhere from 18″ to 3′ in length. This is my 1st round working with it. I just cut off a 2″ piece to experiment with. I like the scent of it. Kinda reminds me of a sweet, pleasant, smelling, cigar. I’m excited about getting it milled, and seeing what I can make with it. 😊
I’m so glad i stumbled upon your articles I’m an amateur wood worker but absolutely love it. You can find articles everywhere about how to work with wood but your one of the very few I’ve found who talks about what woods to use where and you have a wealth of knowledge on all species. Very informative looking forward to more articles
Man, I love this article. I am in the process of building a rocking airplane using black walnut with maple accents for my grandson’s birthday and am having a blast. I built a few furniture pieces in the past but I’ve never used black walnut before. After perusal this article I want to fill the grain, use danish oil, and then clear poly. I have a question: When should I start gluing everything together? Do I glue first, then fill the grain, oil, and then poly? Can I glue after the grain fill and oil, but before the poly?
Question for you. I’m building some Adirondack chairs out of Baltic Birch and Walnut. What would you suggest I seal them with to protect against sun and moisture. I’m hoping that the owners would bring them in during the winter, but snow and ice may also be something I need to think about. Great articles! A great learning resource for newbies like me.
Can you speak about using aged Walnut? I’m in a situation where I’ve inherited a fair amount of old Walnut, maybe 50 years old or more. I haven’t picked it up yet so I can’t speak to the actual color, but I have heard from others that it can be considerably more dense. And what about finishing? Any differences from what you have mentioned in article? I did buy some Peruvian last month and was really surprised how much lighter the wood became after working with it. But that was just 2 out of 4 pieces of stock, the other 2 Peruvian boards stayed really dark. Thank you so much for posting these articles, you really do a wonderful job educating everyone about finishing and learning more about wood in general!!
That was awesome my back hair is still tingling. These are really good things to know for me because guitar makers are using a greater variety of woods these days which is cool we just need to learn how to get more out of walnut for finger boards etc. I had an issue I think you solved for me my new guitar with walnut FB lost its color like overnight or seemed. But I think all it needs is one of those dark grain filters and some dark stain. One of the best tone woods for me is maple especially acoustics. The best midas great bass and trebble too very even tones.. I look forward to learning more about the things I can do with that material. I want to do a modern take on the 3 color sunburst with a brighter yellow in the center then go with the dark stain black last add the red between.. Thanks again
Nice job; thanks! Might want to consider Waterlox as well; a bit tedious, but a great effect on walnut, especially if it isn’t steamed. Also folks, the toxicity discussions are a bit overblown, walnut bowls, tongs etc. will not kill you or make you ill. At all. There is one serious toxicity issue to look at however. If you save/sell your sawdust to be used as bedding in stables, HORSES are very vulnerable to walnut that gets absorbed through their hooves, etc. Most stable operators are well aware of this, but if you do sell your sawdust, be sure to empty your collectors prior to and after running walnut through your saws, sanders, planers and jointers.
Walnut is my favorite kind of wood and I actually love the sapwood color mix but what I was wondering is… I have a black walnut tree on my property and Im thinking of cutting it down to make a bunch of stuff but I have no idea how to dry it in order to actually use it. Any advice you could give or some direction you could point me to would me much appreciated.( My mower would appreciate it too, those nuts are like running over a bunch of baseballs lol ) Thanks!
To further improve walnut contrast, I’ve tried bleaching first: 2-part bleaching, then seal coat, then apply dark filler. Main problem: bleaching removed more of the purple-ish color (red+blue) leaving the walnut an ugly olive (green+yellow) color. I ended up having to sand it back down and water-dying the walnut with much(!) purple before repeating the steps above. Now it looks great, but do you have any tips on bleaching walnut so that it becomes lighter without changing the color so much? My overall goal is to pump-up the contrast but keep the original color.
That was a terrific review, much appreciated. I wondered why, though, you didn’t cover my favorite, which is a straight shellac finish starting with a 1 pound cut sealing and ending in a French Polish. It is rather the historical gold standard on walnut in English furniture and fine rifles. Also, BTW, luthiers often use dry powdered joint compound (Sheetrock mud) blackened with a dye as a wood grain filler to fabulous effect. To read the best stuff about popping wood grain, though, find an old gun stock refinishing book. I’m anxious to check out your other articles. Again, super summarization, thanks.
Great thorough article! I learned a lot but question; can one use the grain filler method on veneered plywood or is the veneer probably too thin for that? One gripe: you missed your shot to show a pure shellac finish; I don’t see many do them but on things that don’t require durability (frames, shelves, even TV stands) I think around 6-10 coats makes a fantastic gloss finish that you can knock out in a few hours, repair easily, and control the coloring effect if you mix your own.
Very NICE! I LOVE walnut. Such a beautiful, natural look. I took down a large black walnut, dropping it’s nuts all over my carport and drive way. I saved 2 slabs cut from the center of the tree. It’s some 27- 30″ wide, 1 1/2″ thick, and 11’ long. I have another tree not quite as wide, but much taller and straighter. I’m still undecided what I will make!!
Couple questions for you, I have a walnut wood slab I’m going to make a desk out of. It was cut a little more than 4 months ago and the moisture reader shows about 8 -10 %. I have sanded it down to 220 and is really smooth, do I need to use any sort of conditioner before I oil it? I have heard that the pores of the wood would be clogged if I did not first condition the wood. Also, what should the moisture reading be at before I oil the wood?
What finish would you recommend for stairs, we want natural walnut. We are getting rough sawn with live edge on one side. I feel like it needs a finish to keep the dirt out but topical sealers will wear off and the dirt will get rubbed in. I feel like I will need to sacrifice sheen preference to obtain durability, however I do not know where to start on product. Also, I will admit that my experience in finishing is oils and wax finishes so I am nervous of difficult processes like epoxy. Thank you
Mark is correct. You can put water based topcoat over oil based. You just have to make sure the oil coat is completely dry. I use GF Arm-R-seal to pop the color……waited 4 days, then applied GF high performance to kill the odor on indoor cabinetry. Also remember. Walnut color is UV light sensitive. Something to take into account before building that plant stand near the window.
Thank yo for the presentation. I would like to let you know of some sort of very light color wet walnut that we have here in Kurdistan part of Iraq. I am told that the color will get darker as the planks get dry. But, I applied liquid from a mixture of vinegar and metal dish washing sponge . This darkened the wood instantly. does the light yellow wet walnut planks change color to become brownish? appreciate your feedback on this..
Awesome tips. Thanks! I am building an edge-grain walnut kitchen Island top. All aggressive cutting and chopping will be done on a cutting board, but I may occasionally cut lightly on the island top for cutting or trimming things like rolled out pasta dough. Any trips for a good finished in those circumstances? (It it ‘earns’ a worn look over time from use and the occasional cut mark, I’m fine with that. But I don’t want a cut mark to suddenly create an area where the finished is now ruined, or wil be ruined if a any moisture gets into the cut. I should also say that it will not be near any running water, but will inevitably have some moisture exposure – wet items, condensation from a cold jar or glass, etc.) Any tips/suggestions would be great appreciated. Cheers!
Hi, quick question but first thanks so much for all the great info and presentation. What do you recommend for kitchen cabinets, walnut veneer matte finish, oil or wax? or any product that will give a natural and simple matte finish with no maintenance for finger oil stain from cooking and handling food? Thanks
Man, I’m just starting to get into woodworking and I really appreciate your content. There are a lot of great websites on Youtube but your delivery makes perusal very enjoyable. Everything from understand fundamentals, finishing tips and projects. Really glad you’re putting out new stuff! Thank you.
I live in NE Iowa, in black walnut country. About a year ago I went to one of the large local sawmill/kiln operations. They had 200,000 bf of walnut in their kiln the day I was there. They steamed the walnut for two weeks and when they finished no sapwood was visible. I purchased 200 – 300 bf of “craft” wood. 6 – 10 ft. long pieces of various widths and thickness, all rough sawn yet and un-planed. No sapwood showing in any of it.
I always learn from your expertise Mark & its always enjoyable. I saw your 2pt desk series way back when you did it & its as awesome today as it was back then. Still being held hostage here in the Peoples Republic of California but planning my escape to freedom in Arizona, hopefully soon! Thanks my friend.
My wife is supper sensitive to odor. What finish has the least amount of smell, obviously poly is out I’ve been burned on that before. So in order not to have to have it sit for a year before use what can I use. I know that water based has less odor but also has less desirable characteristics such as not making the grain pop. Thanks.
Great article! Very impressive! I’m getting some custom living room built in cabinets and shelving made out of walnut. I love the way the grain looks. I do like a darker finish. Would you suggest the Danish oil for this application. The living room gets a decent amount of light also. Thanks for your insight
I usually use solvent based wipe-on poly (Minwax) on Walnut, straight on without a sealer. I use from 5 to eight coats, depending on what I build. It goes on much faster than brushed applications with no brush strokes or drips showing and you can recoat after about 3 hours. Not sure if this poly or UV light (or combo) gives the dark walnut a reddish orange hue over time but it looks almost like teak. Solvent poly does turn yellow. It was a pleasant surprise after I built a cabinet around our refrigerator in a kitchen with teak cabinets. It all blends in well. I never stain or dye walnut. That seems like a waste using such beautiful wood. If I want a very dark color. I’ll use something like rift cut white oak.
I discovered the other day there’s 21 species of walnut. Butternut is a type of walnut. There’s also an eastern Asian walnut which looks like sorta like butternut but I don’t think it falls low on the janka scale like the butternut. And all this time I just thought there was black walnut. I actually built my computer desk out of black walnut with a strip of maple down the middle. I only use Minwax Wipe-On Satin Clear poly. I’ve heard of using BLO and letting it sit for a few days to really make the walnut look nice. But who has time for that? I don’t mind the fumes much. I just wear a respirator, crack the garage door then lay the rags outside on the concrete to dry. It takes a few coats but it builds up to a nice, durable finish. I wait a week for it to cure and follow with 0000 wool and wax. It’s the best I can do in my shop conditions. photos.app.goo.gl/Wwt9hrZU71ar6D2K8 It’s probably my favorite wood, to be honest. Not cheap although I have a local guy who mills the trees and sells it at $5bdft so I snag it up when he has it.
Mark, we’ve “known” each other for many years. The known is in quotes because our only contact through the years has been via emails. You are my Guru of woodworking and finishing. Now that Charles Neil is gone, you do a great job of filling his shoes. You’ve always been there for me with assistance whether it be an answer to a question or a solution for a “situation” with on line sales. Keep up the great work and keep producing these articles.
lucky me I was able to buy a bunch of wood in a garage It was sitting in this garage for 3 or 4 years about 50 board foot of walnut the sane of red oak and cedar and cherry the cherry has a lot of twist and bad spots. I am new to woodworking about two years and was tired of using only framing lumber but now having fun with all this hard wood thanks to you learning how to use it and finish it. Thank you you are good at explaining this has help me.
Epoxy river tables are very popular right now. Wood that has knots and holes is actually more desirable not less. This makes walnut very popular for large table projects. Especially live edge walnut. I just picked up some nice two tone live edge slabs with the bark still on it to make some floating river shelves. I removed the bark with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The dust has a very spicy / peppery smell. You definitely want to wear a dust mask.
Veneer has been used for centuries and falls under the umbrella of “traditional” woodworking as far as I am concerned and that is good enough. If not for veneer, I never would have learned to work with hide glue so very early on in my woodworking life. Another thing that falls into traditional is plywood. Man has been laminating plies of wood together for centuries as well. Just not into sheets, or with stacks of precise veneers, but one can find throughout history where wood layers have certainly been laminated for structural advantage.
I have just recently discovered your website and I’m loving how much I’ve learned already! This article in particular is probably my favorite (so far). It’s just a shame you couldn’t have offered a wider variety of finishing options…🤪 Seriously, thank you for this, and kudos to you for moving the samples around when showing them. Seeing how the light and reflections change really helps get a better idea of how they would look in person. So many articles out there that are supposed to be comparing finishes just show one angle, which only tells half the story at best. Thanks again!
Very well done! Overall your information is all true but there are a few exceptions. For example- Enduro Var water borne poly from General Finishes is made to have the polyurethane darkening look even tho it’s water borne. I use it occasionally and it does the job appropriately. Overall great info. I didn’t know about many facts you stated about the walnut tree processing. Great job!
Hi again. Question. I have several boards of mesquite. Some are 2″ thick and some are 1″ thick. All boards are 8″ x 6’. I want to make a cabinet with them. What other wood would go well with mesquite? High contrast like birdseye maple? Ebony? Or what? Have you ever heard of darkening wood using vinegar and steel wool? Comments? I’m headed to Tucson in a few months. I’d like to stop by your place to chat and buy some wood. I’m looking for Bubinga veneer. Maybe you guys can help me. Thanks for everything. Paul
Hey there! I’ve found a friend of a friend who can sell me a couple (European) walnut planks measuring 5000x650x25 mm that I’m planning to use as countertops. They’ve been stored and dried for 30 years. I’ve got very little experience with woodworking. I’m planning on reinforcing the planks on the bottom side with C-channels or similar. I’m a bit worried about warping, and if 25 mm (1 inch) is too shallow to use as a countertop? Would it work do you think?
Hi … watched all your articles and they are excellent. Thank you! I’m building a man-cave and going to use walnut plywood for the walls and moldings. That’s a LOT of surface area to finish. What process/products would you use for walls?? I’m looking for a darker, rich… but more on the brown side than orange/amber/red… and would like a satin finish. Thanks again… love your vids!
After you fill it and wet sand varnish it, then let it fully cure and comeback and sand with 600-800. Then varnish (preferably with a solvent varnish because the chemistry drys harder than WB) and varnish 3-5 more times sanding each coat progressively up to 2000-3000 grit. Smaller pieces work best (tea caddy, jewelry box, pie crust tables, clocks). It’s an intoxicating look.
Very informative about finishes — fussy, but informative. One finish that is slightly harder (with enough applications) than anything tung-based is minwax AOF (Antique Oil Finish), a polymerized linseed, gives a slight golden tone to walnut (also comes in dark, but is too dark imo, as is the one he shows and likes and uses!), and if you do several applications of MAOF you wind up w oil poly hardness but smoother and needing less application care (no need for still early-morning air, e.g.). (I have no connection to Minwax.)
Help! I inherited a walnut dining room set from my decease mom and am experiencing what looks like the possibility of sap still coming to the surface…not sure? It is a Broyhill “Saga” set and I’d really like to fix this issue but I’m not sure where to begin. Any advice from you or your subscribers would be greatly appreciated.
You are by far the most enjoyable, easiest to listen to/understand woodworking YouTuber I’ve found, and I wish you’d put out more articles and more detailed/lengthy articles. My question is this: I really prefer the cool-toned, chocolatey, almost purple tone in walnut, and would love to know how to finish it without “warming” it up at all. Looking to make cabinet doors, and pretty new to woodworking in general, so dumb it down if you can. Thanks!!
Down here in Natchez Ms. we have some good size black walnut trees, cause all the trees around here are old. Anyways the way we sell or buy walnut is by the tree. The price is fairly high. We calculate the length/width of boards and the amount of each group of L/w, 8’X7”-4’X9” down to 2′ L all fig as 6/4 and expected dark & light amounts. it eats up a day fig out offer. Walnut is the only tree done like that,all others are approx BF. I set a friend’s sister up with a buyer and explained they get the whole tree including the roots. It was in her front yard and they used to play on it when they were kids and said it was old and a good size then. Well, they came out, run some figures, and offered a fair price of $15,000 for it. She wasn’t expecting that much and amazed. They were there bright and early with equipment getting started and she went to work. I finished up a double door unit and left the shop early. Went over to my buddies, her bro, he lives across the street and way out in the country. We watched them finish and leave. The tree was gone. my bud looked at me and said she’s gonna freak out on this. I said hey you heard me tell her. She had a beautiful yard and was proud of it and don’t pull your truck up on her grass, she’ll raise hell. Well, here she comes, got out of her car smiling looked over where the tree was looked at me, and said ”they coming back huh” ”No their done” Then she blew a gasket. When you sell a walnut tree they get everything roots and all. she had a hole in her front yard you could of drove a milk truck in and almost be to the top of it.
I’m also doing a walnut desktop with Tung oil varnish homemade mix. I’m 7 coats in and some spots keep drinking up every bit of the mix and leaving a dull, not satin finish. I’m committed to as many finishes as necessary, but I’m getting the sense I’m doing something wrong. I’m using the method of wet sanding each coat with a 1:1:1 mix of Tung oil: satin poly: mineral spirits.
Thanks for such a great explanation of so many things about Walnut. I have a few slabs in the basement for a few years now not really knowing what to do with it, plus how to finish it correctly, because its expensive, especially here in Ontario Canada I didn’t want to screw it up. So your article really helps me a lot in determining what way to go with finishing it. I love that wood filler, man that makes such a difference, I cant believe my eyes when you showed that. I’ve never seen that product here, so now I need to look around. I could go on and on here, GREAT stuff, and yep, i’m new to your website….for sure I subscribed. Thanks again.
Thanks for the article. I grew up around woodworking with my grandfather & father. I build myself albeit a carpenter M-F. Learned some things here 👌🏼 And it’s an excellent point you made concerning respiration. Walnut, of all species, tends to get extremely fine and irritate my throat when not cautious.
I enjoyed your article! I have some walnut that came from my grandparent’s farm, it’s been made in to raw flooring with tung and groove on all four sides. It has beautiful purple hues that I don’t want to lose when finishing. What would you recommend as the best way to preserve the beautiful, natural colors? Thanks so much!
New to wood working and wow I really enjoy perusal your articles. You sir know your woods and I know you sell wood but you never go overboard on that point. You love to teach us about wood and wow so much to learn and know about it before building something and at the prices of wood right now one doesn’t want to mess up. LOL Thank you for all the work you put into making these articles for us. People don’t know how much work goes into a 15 min article. I do some work for our church and it takes some time for just a short article so thank you.
I can’t wait to get some Peruvian walnut for a build or two. Black Walnut has become my favorite domestic hardwood since getting back into woodworking 7 years again finally for the first time since I was in middle school. I have some gorgeous walnut at home right now waiting for me to resaw on a band saw before cutting miter joints for the sides of an urn I’m building for our German Shepherd Lab mix, Peanut that passed away. I’m hoping I get the continuous grain pattern wrapped around the sides I’m after with re sawing before cutting and assembly. It’s the perfect color to fit some of the colors that she had in her coat from the German Shepherd breed in her. Going to finish it with semi gloss Old Masters Masters Armor water based.
Great overview of different options. But the one you didn’t discuss is the hard-wax oil category of finishes. Specifically, I just finished a walnut dining room table using a product called Osmo’s oil. Very easy to apply, beautiful result, and easy to repair. Rubio Monocoat is another brand in this category. These were originally created as hardwood floor finishes, but very popular for furniture builds. My previous favorite was Arm R Seal varnish, but the hard-wax oils are now my “go to.” Thoughts?
What kind of finish would you suggest for walnut to live outdoors? I make birdhouses out of it and now use only spar urethane. Suggestions on something that will stand the test over time when the wood sees both sunlight and weathering? Heretofore I have been using 200yr old yellow pine which has so much sap in it really needs little protective finish. It just gums everything up from saw blades to drill bits. I must admit, however, I LOVE the smell of it.
Hi, great and very clear info! I will like to share with you some pics for a project that I have for a kitchen island . Is ready to finish . But I will like to send you pics and you may send me your comments . Is my first project for my home. Can you share your email? Basically how to avoid air bubbles when I apply epoxy? Can I apply a coat of urethane? Before? I am looking the best color contrast me get the natural color and bright. Please send me your comments !
@ Woodworkers Source This was an excellent review of considerations with working in walnut. I’m trying to work through a set of inset panel cabinet doors, and I’m concerned about color matching between my plywood (big box store sourced) and my hardwood lumber (local, small supplier).Do you have any suggestions for handling tonal variations between materials? I’m seeing a lot of green undertones in the plywood that I usually don’t deal with in hardwood. Thanks!
Walnut heartwood and sapwood take penetrating stain very differently. Sapwood sucks it in, but heartwood absorbs more slowly. I do color tests on the bottom side of the walnut table tops I finish. Tremendous variation sapwood to heartwood. But I also like to see the effect of using pre-stain conditioner, stain alone, stain with conditioner, unstained under clear finish, and stained under finish. I also had some epoxy spread accidentally on bare wood, another look. Each piece of wood is different, so testing is important. My current project is very dry walnut, air dried 20 years. I had to experiment on the back side to find the combination I wanted on this piece. I used oil based conditioner and stain, but water based urethane for finish for faster drying. I do see the hot shots all seem to use Rubio Monocoat, which is so expensive. Might try that or the newer Natura OneCoat (cheaper, nice). I miss the simplicity of wiping on Watco and done, but with more effort, better results. New stuff is always coming out, so give it a try.
Thank you for this article. I’m getting ready to finish some small tables that I’m making. Would you think it would be ok to use the woodgrain filler you show and then follow that up with the Danish Oil finish? I would like to even out the tone across the boards in my glue-ups ( I have some boards that have a higher sapwood content). I would also like to enhance the grain throughout. Thanks again!
I’ll be buying some 4/4 Walnut from you guys to build a kitchen island counter. Great tips here for finishing that. Question tho: Do these techniques apply to walnut veneer as well? I am building my own cabinets and will be veneering them. Would these tips also work and then topcoated with Old Masters poly for protection? Thanks!
You touched on ebonizing walnut. I’m wondering if there is a significant tanin difference in the sap wood vs the heart wood? I would guess the sap wood would still be lighter, but does the sap wood ebonize at all? Reason I ask is because I can sometimes pick up “cheap” walnut narrow cuts that have a lot of sap wood. I really like ebonized oak, and wondering if walnut sapwood would be similar.
I have thought of a possible evolutionary reason for the well-known characteristics of walnut wood. Walnuts in their shells are much heavier and bigger than e.g. hazel nuts or beech nuts, and their weight and size, and their cross-section catching the wind, are extra load on the tree, particularly if a windstorm is blowing the tree about, and the tree must hold onto its nuts until they become able to germinate. Thus walnut wood evolved to be much harder and stronger than the wood of trees that carry smaller nuts or small seeds. A common vulnerability of trees in storms is splitting at crotches. It may be that the well-known crotch figuring in walnut trees arose by the walnut tree evolving to make patches of thicker harder material in crotches as a way to support and brace the crotch.
I did not know about the steaming process, and Learning about it let me to have a couple of questions. I have a large number of walnut trees on my mountain property and I’m considering selling some of them and hand cutting planks to dry and wondering how I can imitate the steaming process in terms of getting the resultant the color of the wood can anybody give me an answer
we had a old walnut tree next door our neighbor wanted help cutting it down to get the her front yard clear of the walnuts so i cut down this 100+ year old walnut tree for her with the city’s permission as it was a heritage tree to the city that became a problem i went and cut all the lims striped the twigs and laid it all out in piles in the yard just like skinning a rabbit chipped the twigs and skinny limbs for garden bedding cut the limbs into 10 foot sections and the trunk into 2 10 foot sections took it to the amish mill where they paid me handsomely then i went and picked all the nuts out of the yard and took them to the amish flower shop and was paid again then i went back having profited so much from the lady next door and mowed her yard with no expectation of payment just to pay it forward and she forced my mother to take payment for it so one job made me a good $2000 fo nothing but a good deed
I have a feeling that when Mark attends a friendly weekend barbecue, he gets louder and louder as the day goes on and by the evening he’s shirtless (probably with his t-shirt tied around his head like a bandana), overly sweaty and shouting at any other partygoer who dares to make eye contact with him about the fact that no one else understands & appreciates lumber like he does.
Hi, I want to buy the home depot european walnut solid wood butcher block and use it as a computer desk. I want it semi glossy and matte. I will be putting a monitor clamp arm with three monitors and a computer tower on it. I don’t want to wait a month to use it either. What do you suggest the best combo of finishers that will show the beauty / contrast and shortest time to use that can handle computer desk usage?
my dad bought a chunk of walnut randomly witch turned out to be a rifle blank highly figured quilty at the butt area with a nice section further forward with a tighter strait grain. it did have a defect on one side of the blank that i realized made it worthless to a high grade stock maker. but i saw the wood around the defect and was set on making a nice target stock from that blank. so i took another stock and drew the rough shape onto the blank, then i looked around at the tools i had to work with. a power drill a broken hack saw blade a pocket knife and a bunch of files and chisels and a rasp. do i started drilling holes threw the blank following the lines i layed down then i cut section by section off with the saw blade., from their it was rasped into shape and the website for the action and barrel i cut in by hand and inleted everything. it took forever! i then did a traditional oil finish witch took another 3 months.it turned out great! its the only one ive made.lol
Thank you sir, you went into excellent detail about this in 16+ min. Saved me a lot of time researching all this separately. Definitely subscribed, looking forward to perusal other articles you’ve made and future ones you put out. Also, I can sense your enthusiasm. I really appreciate how you showed us actual physical examples of each type of finishing style. Not sure if that was for your own information, or for the article for us, or both… but it’s appreciated you sharing it with us. Again, thank you.
Love the article. And of course love walnut. What’s your thoughts on toxicity? I made some jewelry with walnut a few years ago and I have been barraged with comments ever since about what a horrible idea that was because walnut is just so toxic and deadly. Nothing bad has ever happened with the jewelry and I’ve been pretty sure that the finish seals everything in anyway.
You forgot one downside I’ve experienced a lot with Walnut. I’ve made some cutting boards for family and friends using some beautiful walnut, sometimes with stripes of bog oak and maple in there, and I’m sad to say none of them have actually USED the cutting boards till now. The wood is simply too beautiful to be cut on.
I just got a 65″ round table, pedestal, and chairs. All are are a very dark reddish walnut. After a lot hours stripping and sanding, the walnut is a nice light gray/redish/purpleish color. My wife and i love it. The issue im running into is trying to keep it that color. If i add water, mineral spirts, or some type of liquid, it darkens up quickly. Is there a way to add a finish, that keeps it that freshly sanded color?
Just got my shipment from you guys yesterday and just love what you sent! I love using this wood because of its workability and look but also because it reminds me of my childhood….sound funny but when i cut and sand this wood it smells JUST like the walnut forest on the family farm…. I even used the walnut husks for things…you can boil them to get that super black residue and use it for all kinds of things… and the smell the lumber gives off is the same smell those husks or even the fallen leaves give off every autumn…. love it.
Love this article very informative. Lots of options so kinda confused. would you say to get the richest walnut finish, do the following: apply the dark wood filler to bare wood then hit it with tung oil varnish and wet sand x 3 or 4 coats hit it with an oil based polyurethane like general finish I feel like based on your article this would be the best option. What I’m not sure of is do you either use wood grain filler OR tung oil varnish? Or could you do both to accentuate the dark walnut grain and bring out the richness of the wood?
Does adding multiple layers of danish oil accomplish anything? I’m finishing a peruvian walnut cabinet/dresser, that won’t see harsh use. I’ve wet sanded once with danish oil, dark walnut (to fill in the grain) and had planned on adding a couple more layers, scuffing between coats with a synthetic pad. This is my first project, so trying to figure out how much is enough, when enough is enough, and what the best final step is. Appreciate all the info in your articles!