Manual cleaning techniques for an intake manifold include disconnecting the air intake hose, vacuuming the interior with a shop vacuum, and using specialized tools to remove loose debris and dust. To thoroughly clean the carbon inside of a plastic or aluminum intake manifold, use Purple Power and a dryer lint brush.
Remove the 6mm hex head bolt on the front of the intake manifold holding the turbo inlet on and the 10mm bolt on the rear of the EVAP sensor. Remove the intake manifold assembly following all precautions and the service procedure supplied in the applicable Service Manual. Inspect inside the runners closely along with the exhaust.
For a wrinkled red intake manifold, it is recommended to use masking tape and pressure wash the inside to prevent metal shavings from getting stuck. Another way to get the inside cleaned out is to use a foaming degreaser, fill it up, let it sit, rinse, and repeat as necessary.
After cleaning the intake manifold, block the open engine bay and ensure to block the open. Clean the oil and gunk out of the manifold before hand to prevent metal shavings from getting stuck. Another way to get the inside cleaned out is to use a foaming degreaser, fill it up, let it sit, rinse, and repeat as necessary.
To clean out cobwebs and other dirt from an intake manifold that has been sitting in the floor or garage for a year, follow these manual cleaning techniques: disconnect the air intake hose, vacuum the interior, use a specialized tool, and moisten the brush with a degreaser.
📹 How to Clean an Intake Manifold Inside & Out (Remove Carbon Buildup)
How to thoroughly remove all the carbon inside of a plastic or aluminum intake manifold using Purple Power and a dryer lint brush …
How often should you clean an intake manifold?
The air filter serves to remove impurities from the air before it enters the engine. In the event that the vehicle is in its original factory condition, there is no requirement for the intake to be cleaned. The air filter may be cleaned at the second service interval, at 30, 000 kilometers, or upon replacement of the filter.
How to clean the interior of a Subaru?
To maintain leather upholstery, vacuum seats and use a soft brush to remove caked-on dirt. Wipe with a tightly wrung cloth and dry thoroughly. If dirt persists, use mild soap and lukewarm water. For leather upholstery, avoid dirt and dust buildup, as it can cause premature wear. Clean the interior monthly, vacuum first, then use a soft lint-free cloth dampened with lukewarm water and mild soap. Wipe gently in circular motions and dry with a soft cloth.
Chris recommends Motul Perfect Leather for cleaning and conditioning leather, which can be applied using a soft cloth and left to cure before use. This product can be used on both interior and exterior leather surfaces.
Can you clean inside intake manifold?
Aerosol intake cleaners are simple and effective but ineffective against dirt, grime, and soot buildup in the engine. To clean effectively, the manifold must be completely removed. The air intake, responsible for bringing air into the engine, can become clogged with soot, carbon deposits, or other obstructions, inhibiting engine performance and health. Carbon build-up will occur regardless of the emissions control system used, and fuel additive detergents can help. Therefore, it is crucial to clean the intake manifold regularly and properly to prevent carbon build-up and maintain engine performance.
Is it worth cleaning the intake manifold?
Diesel intake manifold cleaning is crucial for maintaining a smooth and efficient diesel engine, resulting in improved performance. The frequency of cleaning depends on the frequency of use and the conditions of operation. For frequent stop-and-go traffic or dusty conditions, it is recommended to have the intake manifold cleaned more frequently to prevent carbon deposits from building up and causing issues. Regular cleaning helps prevent carbon build-up and ensures optimal performance.
How do I tell if my intake manifold is bad?
Intake manifold gaskets are crucial for diesel truck operation, serving as a connection point between the manifold and engine block. They help maintain proper engine performance and prevent engine failure, which can lead to stalled fleet operations and loss of revenue. Truck drivers, fleet operators, and fleet managers should be aware of the impact of an intake manifold gasket on their fleet. Protecting the gasket can save time and money on preventive maintenance, engine replacements, and other expenses. Understanding the importance of these gaskets is essential for maintaining a healthy diesel fleet.
What can I use to clean my Subaru dashboard with?
The speaker’s intention is to clean the room using a microfiber towel and interior detailer, thereby ensuring a considerable degree of moisture.
What cleaner to use to clean intake manifold?
The objective of the text is to remove the coarse sand and detritus from the area.
How to clean the inside of an aluminum intake?
Easy-off oven cleaner and Brak-kleen can clean various surfaces off the intake. Eagle1 cleaner, used for aluminum, non-clear coated wheels, can shine like new money after 15-20 seconds. It works well, lasts long, and goes fast. Simple Green, brushed on the manifold and carb bodies, can clean up light oil residue. Seal off the inlets to the carbs, trash bag the ignition stuff, rinse off, and let dry. This method is effective and long-lasting.
What are the symptoms of a dirty intake manifold?
A malfunctioning intake manifold can result in a number of engine performance issues, including a lack of power, an unresponsive acceleration, misfiring, or backfiring. This is due to the fact that the intake manifold plays a crucial role in regulating the fuel-air mixture within the engine.
How to clean an inlet manifold without removing it?
To clean the intake manifold, unhook the brake booster hose and add water through it while the engine is running. If the engine stalls, add too much water. This will send carbon and dirt into the engine. If the throttle body is dirty and blackish, spray seafoam or Supertech’s own version of seafoam before an oil change to clean it out. This method is effective in removing dirt and carbon buildup from the engine.
How to clean Subaru leather?
It is essential to gather the requisite supplies, including a vacuum cleaner, a leather cleaning agent such as saddle soap, microfiber cloths, and a leather conditioner. It is recommended that the seats be vacuumed gently, with care taken to avoid rubbing the dirt, and that the cleaner be tested on a small, inconspicuous area before use.
📹 Do You Really Need to Carbon Clean Your Engine? Let’s Find Out
Do You Really Need to Carbon Clean Your Engine? Let’s Find Out, DIY life hacks and car repair with Scotty Kilmer. Car life hacks.
Great article. I had the idea to use purple power on my upper intake too after needing to replace the bushings on the intake manifold runner control valve of an 02 mustang and wanted to find some articles of how other people cleaned theirs and this was very reassuring. I think I’d get along well with this guy if we ever had to work on a vehicle together.
This is exactly what I searched for, Thanks! Purple power sure isn’t what it used to be. I was using this back in the mid to late 80’s and you didn’t dare use it without gloves on, as it would start drying your skin out to the point of the skin cracking. I know that they took it off of the consumer market for a while and then brought it back out as a diluted version.
I just sourced a liquid intercooler from a Ford Super Duty to use on my project (because I’m cheap and re-purpose parts from other cars). Anyways, I didn’t know how I was going to clean all the carbon out the damn thing. Saw your article, went to Sam’s and bought a knock off purple power, let the thing soak, and now its spotless. Thank you so much.
Another great and effective product for cleaning oily and carboned-up engine parts is professional HVAC outdoor coil cleaner.Some name brands are “Nu-Brite” and “Foam-N-Clean”,with several store brand type knockoffs as well.These are concentrated alkaline products that react with the aluminum fins on the outdoor coils by foaming up and lifting off any dirt or corrosion,but they also work very well for soaking freshly disassembled nasty parts from a junk motor,for example,or any other metal part.I would not use it on that plastic intake,and it is very caustic and corrosive,so rubber gloves and caution are mandatory,as is heavy rinsing with the garden hose,but the stuff works great!Just FYI.Also, your vids were very informative during a recent rebuild of the 4.7 in my 2000 Grand Cherokee.Keep’em coming!
Thank you so much Martin!! I cleaned mine on my 91 chrysler lebaron 3ltr v6 wit 87,000 original miles. It was full of carbon on upper and lower intake manifolds. I didn’t use the purple power I used dollar generals LA’s TOTALLY AWESOME degreaser and cleanser for about $1.50 half gallon took longer as I couldn’t fine any of ur stuff. I also uses the long lint brush. Ur a life saver! Wish I could send u b4 and after pics, shining like a new dime! Have a Blessed day!!!❤
Well hopefully others will read my comment first before making the same mistakes as me: 1. Do follow safety instructions. Purple Power will tear up your hands. 2. Do not soak parts long term in the stuff. I figured if it soaked white stuff would not appear. It will actually form under the surface of purple power. 3. Yea, don’t use on aluminum. 4. Even after soaking it, I still have deposits inside my intake plenum.
Hey Martin, I also have some Power Purple. It is a good product. However, the instructions specifically say NOT TO USE ON ALUMINUM. Maybe the manifold you are cleaning in the article is not aluminum, but I did hear you mention that if you were to use Purple Power on an aluminum intake to be sure to rinse well to prevent the white stuff that builds up.
I know that this manifold was obtained separately from any vehicle currently in your garage, but I have to wonder what the head would be like on the vehicle from which this manifold was taken? Specifically, if the head was in the same dirty condition as the manifold……how would you deal with it? Thank you.
I’ve used purple power for 10 years here and there mostly on my driveway. When I saw you using it with bare hands I cringed because that stuff will melt your skin. You normally dilute the PP with hot water to “activate” it. I’m no tree hugger but I would have contained two gallons of contaminated Purple power and disposed of it properly. Other than that, good article.
I like the way you clean the intake manifold the only problem is you cleaned it outside in the environment why didn’t you clean this in a sink so we’re if somebody was walking their dog they didn’t have to swallow your your crap out of the intake manifold or Birds drinking water come on let’s pay attention to the environment a little more .
I recently upgraded with a new engine for my 4.7. I went with a 2008 intake manifold. Let me just say after you go to the larger intake you can definitely want to go with mid-grade gasoline. So that didn’t take manifold a different throttle body 70 mm and different intake injectors I went with four port and removing the torque management was easily a 35 horsepower increase.
Best way to clean any plastic style LS intake…….the tupperware tub filled with gasoline. Leave it over night. When you take it out the next day there will be 100% NOTHING sticking to any surface inside or out. Then you just spray it with a hose till its rinses…then let it air dry. It will be as clean as brand new out of the box. And NO…..gas doesn’t hurt it in any way at all.
Thank you Martin. This is very helpful. I would appreciate so much if you didn’t pour the waste into the gutter. “Biodegradable” is not the same as “non-toxic.” The first ingredient monoethanolamine is very toxic to ingestion, and can damage internal organs. some question about toxicity. the second ingredient “glycol” tastes “sweet” to dogs.. and they may drink it in the gutter.. and be injured. Pouring it in a sewer would be safer. THank you.
Didn’t say how long to let it sit, figured it wouldn’t hurt to leave it for an hour or so while I was removing my turbo. Now my pretty aluminum intake manifold that I spent WEEKS grinding/sanding/polishing to chrome is oxidized and stained black. MAKE SURE YOU USE IT QUICKLY// DON’T LET IT SIT TOO LONG!! It also DID NOT clean off the oil from the inside like it did for you…
The Final Nail in the Coffin: youtu.be/ENCeliWdtGo Thanks for perusal! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► youtube.com/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA?sub_confirmation=1 ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this article: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
I have a 2010 Kia Soul 2.0l Manual Transmission- I bought it off the lot and did my regular maintenance and I’m at 200,000 miles with my original engine. My friends recently got new cars and they say I should upgrade, but I love this car. It runs and drives great, it’s really roomy, I can park pretty much anywhere, perfect height and bonus on not having a car payment. Plus, the manual is great anti theft! Lol!
I just did that today to my Kia Rio 2013 and the performance improved a lot ! now, I read somewhere that is necessary to change the oil urgently because some carbon debris could get there and it is bad, that’s true? Today is Saturday, I don’t want to run it to much without change the oil, and tomorrow Sunday the oil service shop is closed 😴
A lot of that cleaner ends up in the bottom your intake and does not get into the cylinders, if it does, probably in different amounts, These intakes are designed for air flow not liguids. You need to perform a double oil change after one of these services. Huge amounts of GDI abrasive soot contaminates the oil, and the misfires that occur when ingesting this mostly oil and solvents will also contaminate the oil. I have oil analysis before and after and it is alarming how much hard particulates end up in the oil. The particulates are smaller than the average full flow filter can catch, thus the reason to change oil. My tests show it takes 2 oil changes with 20-50 miles to get all the cleaner, fuel and soot out of the engine.
Using the brake booster vacuum line is not really an option on modern GDI engines with a turbo, the manifold is under boost not vacuum. If you spray the cleaner in and the revs pickup then it will spit it out at you with the boost pressure, most turbo engines nowadays use a vacuum pump or if the brake booster line is on the manifold you only get vacuum when the engine revs are over idle speed and slowing down which causes the vacuum. Best place is either the hose after the air filter to the throttle or the pcv line to the air inlet before the turbo. Keep the revs at 1500rpm by jamming a stick on the gas pedal.
I sprayed deep creep in my intake and immediately shut the engine off. I allowed it to soak in for about an hour and then I started my engine and immediately sprayed in more deep creep. Then I immediately shut the engine off again. Did thus a total of 8 times. I wish you could have seen the heads when i took them off! Impressive!
I don’t want to defend kia, of course they don’t pay me, but I know people who owned toyotas with blow out engines, and not even at 100,000 miles. And on the other hand, my neighbor has a 2011 soul with 150,000 miles that runs pretty good. In conclusion, toyotas are better made but not all parts are created equal. Just treat a good car right and it will give you a lot of mileage.
I have a 2016 Forester XT direct injection fuel system. It has 40K miles but I bought used, so I do not know if Subaru dealers did this clean on the regular maintenance schedule ( car has been serviced regularly on dealers till today ). My question is, do I have to clean the carbon on a 40K miles car if I don’t know if it was previously cleaned? Because some people say that it could have a lot of carbon so maybe it will be a good idea leave it as is and not to liberate that already sticked carbon.
As you indicated by the engine stalling when spraying in the cleaner, this car uses engine vacuum for the brake booster. However, my 2011 Sonata has a separate vacuum pump for the brake booster. Spraying the cleaner in the brake booster’s vacuum hose on my car won’t clean the engine. Just something for folks to be aware of. I don’t know how many different cars this would apply to, but probably most cars with turbochargers, since they don’t have the manifold vacuum needed to run the brake booster.
I have a 2017 ford f150 2.7l v6 with 116000 miles and smoke comes out from the exhaust. I’m thinking it might have to do with the combustion build up but I’m not sure, I have no check engine light nor any codes show up when I scan it. I also average 17.5mpg which is bad it should average 22mpg lowest 19mpg I’m thinking of doing this some time this week
Hey Scotty you might not see this but I purchased my first car about 3 days ago as I am about to start nursing school in a few weeks. It’s a 2012 Honda accord coupe Lx about 3 days ago with 152k miles. The car breefly shakes when I’m slowly accelerating but it doesn’t shake when i accelerate quickly. Do you have any idea what it could be? Is it something of major concern?
I doubt that spraying the intake valves will remove the carbon it might soften the outer surface. But you need to walnut blast them for results. I have seen where you remove the intake and then you rotate close valves on cylinder you want to clean and you physically scrape the carbon off the valve then you fill the intake manifold with the cleaner spray then you take a drill and 6 tye straps in a drill and then you rotate the tye straps into the manifold for 15 minutes then you pump the cleaner out and then rag any remaining cleaner inspect your work and do it again if you don’t get the results you want. I have always got all the carbon off the intake valves this way no walnut blasting required. But walnut blasting is not expensive a cheap sand blaster using walnut blasting material will pass through the blaster no problem and do a awesome job. It’s the time it takes. Most vehicles need it 3 times in their lifetime. It’s the only way Scotty. No disrespect l like all of the advice you provide to people.
I have used CDI Injecton cleaner on my 2017 Escape 1.5 Turbo and my wifes 2107 Equinox 2.5. Can states to do the cleaning on a GDI engine every 10 to 15 thousand miles. What they tell you to do,and you didnt do it for the correct time frame….get car up to operating temp, hold the idle at 2500 rpm… spray in ALL the can with short bursts,try not to kill the engine, when the can is empty, shut off the car and let it ” heat soak ” into the valves for 1 hour. Then, after 1 hour, get it out on the hwy as quickly as possible and up to speed. It should belch out a ton of white/grey smoke as your driving 60/65 mph. rev up as you drive,slow down to legal limit,kick in the gas pedal to go faster,then slow back down. drive for about 30 minuets. You should be ok after that. Yes, your check engine light may come on, or flicker, but I was hearing pieces of the the carbon breaking up and passing thru my turbo into the cat. and smoking like hell …for about 10 seconds…. and my car only had 26,000 miles on it. Did the same to wifes, same reaction,she had 32,000 miles. Smoked like hell, you hear the carbon breaking up and bouncing thu the exhaust. DO NOT FOLLOW THE MANUAL on recomended service of this item… if you do, you will trash and probably destroy your engine… Do it every 10,000 -15,000 miles…. just as a side note…. do it sooner if you have a turbo, becouse you can seriously damage the fins of the turbo as the carbon breaks apart, if they are large pieces. and is injested in it.
I find Scotty’s articles very helpful. But I would be cautious when doing this procedure. I’ve done this on my 2018 Elantra Sport, sprayed seafoam down the brake booster vacuum line, and it absolutely destroyed my vacuum pump. Dealer could not figure it out. Opened up the pump and it was literally crumbs. Had to diagnose and repair it myself with vague forum posts and a $500 replacement pump.
This is why I will stick with my 2004 Buick Park Avenue Ultra with the Buick 3800 S/C and if properly maintained the 3800 will go 400k miles.That GM 3800 S/C Series II got 33.54 MPG on highway on 93 octane and 23 city. We average 31 MPG consistently easy to fix none of this GDI DI crap that when it breaks and it will the cost of the repairs total loss the car. The GM 3800 N/A WERE SNORED TO GET CLOSE TO 35 MPG HIGHWAY IF PROPLERLY SERVICED OIL CHANGED EVERY 3000K MILES SPARK PLUGS AND COILS REPLACED EVERY 30 K MILES AND FRESHEN THE TRANS FLUID EVERY 30K MILES OIL TRANS FLUID SPARK PLUG COILS ARE CHEAP ENGINES ARE NOT REPLACED ALL 3 OF MY ORIGINATION COILS FOR 79.49 WITH TAX FOR THEM A/C DELCO PARTS. MY 3800 Buick 231 CID WILL OUTLAST THIS KIA ANY DAY. THAT WHY GM KILLED THE 3800 SERIES ENGINES . CORPORATE BIG WIGS SAID WE CANT HAVE ANTEING RELIABLE WHERE COMMON FOLK CAN WORK ON IT. WE HAVE TO HUNK OF CRAP LIKE THE 3.6VVT NEEDS 4 TIMING CHAINS REPLACED AT 80 K MILES.
Great hints in this article — very informative. You mentioned VW/Audi engines being particularly prone to carbon buildup on the valves. I have a generation 3 1.8T engine in a Golf Sportwagen. Is it inevitable that I need to do the disassemble / walnut shell thing, or can I do the sort of PCV decarbonization you demonstrated more frequently, as preventive maintenance? If so, what sort of cleaning interval do you recommend?
Scotty, Its a 2012 kia soul. You think the clear coat should not be pealing ? It has over 80k miles on orginal engine before rebuilt and its almost 10 years old. You play both sides of the fence when it comes to kia reviews. Sometimes you are for kia and sometimes against. But kia has come a long way. IMO it has better deals and builds then most other companies.
You are so wrong about hyundai and kia engines PERIOD And I am talking about the original ones made in Korea, not Mexico or whatever…I have a similar engine on a 2012 Hyundai Accent, original owner, that just turned 154k today. No issues whatsoever…Yet I used synthetic since the first oil change. And….I used a simple clear 5/16 fuel filter on the PCV valve hose and cleaned it periodically. After the warranty expired, I drilled a hole in each cylinder duct on the intake manifold. I used the hole to spray the same GDI spray and then plug it with a small screw. simple yet efficient unlike your nonsense article…..And the paint, ohhh give me a break….its called sun damage for lack of paint protection…..smh…..
Hey Scotty big fan bought a Kia K5 from Enterprise in salt lake city, Utah and the car had a lot of cosmetic problems. The salesmen told me to take the car to Marky’s auto body in Twin falls, Idaho the work was not completed. The trunk was swapped out for no reason. My exterior l.e.d lights are missing and my trunk opens by its self, remote start turns off by its self. Tcs, turns on and off by its self, media center turns the phone volume down by its self, when the car is park and I’m not in it the parking brake turns off by itself. This has all happened after Marky’s. First new car purchase and the car is reminding me, more and, more of Christine except it doesn’t repair it’s self. What can I do, need help.
Disappointing. We must accept the fact that the deposits on the valves MUST GO SOMEWHRE. And where do they go we must ask…? Into the combustion chamber. Where else will the deposits go? Then you will have significant downstream effect. To the combustion chamber, the PCV, EGR, EGT and CAT. And if you have a turbo then into the turbo/intercooler which if is modern will recirculate BACK into the intake for another carbonization cycle via EGR/PCV. USE THE MFR APPROVED cleaning method folks. If you have a $3k car take your chances. If you have a decent vehicle.. think about this for a moment. Do extra research and then take action.
I bought a 2016 Kia soul new. Have had it 8 years. Mines used 16 oz of oil every 1200 miles since it was new. It sucks the oil from the head thru the pcv and it goes directly into the intake. I had Kia do an oil consumption test. They claim it’s normal. It has to use a qt in 1000 miles or less in order to address it. They basically kicked me down the road. I’ve got 92,000 on mine now.
Right, don’t believe that the engine lasts because THIS one died at 80k because of the catalytic converter and we know this ONE car represents all of them. So don’t believe the baloney of the owners that have 150k miles and their engine is good, because that’s just one car that lasted that long. You can’t have it both ways Scotty. If ONE that dies represents them all then ONE that didn’t is just as representative and your advice is useless.
Toyota has been using GDI engines in the Camry, Corolla, and RAV4 for years, so Toyota is also a cheap, crappy car as you said to Kia. Volkswagen, BMW, and Mercedes-Benz, which also use GDI engines for many years, also make and sell cheap and crappy cars. The problem is the car owner who doesn’t do Intake Valve Cleaning on a GDI engine, so how can you claim that GDI engines have all the problem? Why do you change the engine oil every set period or mileage? You’re the kind of person who would blame the engine for being cheap and crappy when, after driving tens of thousands of miles without changing the engine oil, the engine broke down and exploded.
Scotty you got a new subscriber in me you explain so good that I think every article is worth it, I buy a 2007 Lexus is250 awd with 1600000 miles for 6K, it runs smooth and shift like a new car what should you recommend to me right now, where I can do a Carbon Clean? You recommend to do it? Have a blessed day and blessed life. 🫶🏻
Hello Scotty. Long time fan of yours. Thank you for the info you provide. But I have a question about cleaning out carbon in GDI’s. There are a lot of products that can be used to spray into the throttle body or the vacuum hose of the valve cover. They’re supposed to loosen up the carbon build up, to clean things up in there. And, in learning about the reasons why carbon builds up in the GDI’s (because gasoline isn’t injected into the valves, thereby not cleaning them up), I wondered if manually using gasoline on a GDI instead of those products is something you’d recommend? Maybe injected via one of those pressurized units that hang from the hood, injecting gasoline in a controlled way into the vacuum hose? This would pass gasoline over the valves, and use that to clean things up in there. What do you say?
Scotty, When I worked at Sears Auto (Advanced Tech) we were told Not use the Brake Booster Hose. Never got an answer why? Theories were that the Chemical could Deteriorate the Hose. Or they were worried about Liability. I did that using Seafoam years ago on previous cars. Trying to grab a Vacuum line Behind the T-Body so that it distributed more eveningly.
in his other article he said you shouldn’t need to carbon clean the engine, that at least you should check to see if you need to clean it.. ok, its not expensive to use the Lucas to clean it as a preventative maintenance but why didn’t Scotty use a borescope before and after the cleaning? that way we all will know if the engine needed it or if the Lucas works or not – article doesn’t make sense..
Will this help my 2011 Santa fe. It has a clicking sound with a cold start. It goes away after a few seconds but it’s very annoying. It’s not the vent system door..actuator… it’s coming from the engine. It runs great with no issue. Just think it’s carbon. Any help would be awesome. Love your website, and welcome to TN!
Thank you for sharing this !!! I love all your articles that you do!@ I am truly in love with your website and have been binging on it since I’ve been having trouble with my 2016 Hyundai Sonata eco. You are certainly my favorite mechanic that I certainly would so trust to have work on my vehicle. (cuz right now I don’t trust nobody ) Thank you for your honest opinion on everything that you share😘
Hey Mr.Killer I have a problem with my 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 where my speedometer is showing that it’s accelerating up to 10 mph when parked and when I’m actually driving it shows that I’m going 10 mph faster then what I’m traveling sometimes I try and reset it by turning my truck on and off but that usually makes it worse in some cases what could be causing this?
Problem with Kia Hyundai they are made to be junk after 100k miles (if that). Every single aspect is cheap and barely meets min specs and it shows, badly. The struts on all of them keel worse than cheap Monroe’s, dunno what’s going on there it’s like a horse carriage… Timing chains are skimpy and actually skip often or get screwed up by the guides because it’s poorly built & designed. The OCV valve is a cheap crap design made of plastic that dislodged and can get sucked into he intake. The electronics can spontaneously combust because the ABS brake systems badly designed. The maintenance schedule tells you everything, but it’s just a nuisance to keep having to get towed to the dealer to fix a bad design (not reply a fix). Not to mention they catch fire spontaneously and tried to cover it up.
You should probably not try this if your car is turbocharged. Theses chemicals can loosed carbon and send chucks of if through the exhaust and destroy your turbo turbine. If you have a turbocharger the only safe way to remove the carbon is to have a carbon removal service, where the intake manifold is removed and the intake valves ports are blasted one at a time with the intake valves closed. BMW does such a service for $200-$300 a cylinder (recommended by BMW every 30,000 to 50,000 on all their GDI vehicles and actually covered as required maintenance if vehicle is under warranty). Ford OTOH refuses to admit it’s a problem and actually does not recommend any carbon removal on their Ecoboost engines for fear of damaging the turbocharger.
Clean those fuel injectors too.. regularly.. every 20K miles… GDI consider removing the PCV value and putting on a drop tube… vent to atmosphere. Pulling a vacuum on the bottom end of your ending never makes sense. Ofcourse you’re going to suck up the oil vapors, but you also ‘mystify’ the oil in the system, making the oiling problem worse… Ive seen oil catch cans collect 1/4 quart of oil, between oil changes… dumb. Just dump the pressure to the street below.
Looks like a vacuum check valve he’s spraying that cleaner through…if rubber seals or neoprene, cleaner might deteriorate seal, then valve doesn’t hold vacuum on the brake booster so if engine dies and you still need normal soft brake pedal, you’ll now have a hard as a rock brake pedal when engine isn’t running for whatever reason. Also, stalled engine with the cleaner? Washing down the cylinder walls accelerating rings & pistons wear much?
Has alot to do witht he owner of the vehicle, i have a 18 optima, first owner, 91,5xx miles on it. (Yes it gets driven) aftermarket intake-oil catch can- catless-lowered-heavy audio system in the trunk with a street tune, car gets routine service and some preventative service here and there and never had a issue with it other than bulbs going out. Not trying to jinx it but just saying take care of your car and it will go a long way.
If the cleaner is applied through the vacuum line (like the brake booster) wouldn’t it primarily be cleaning the valves closest to that side of the system (and not clean the valves on the opposite side of the brake booster line)? In my 6 cylinder I have three valves close to the brake booster and 3 on the opposite side.
I own three 2010, 2012, 2013, – 2010 has 384,000 – replaced the motor with a used motor @ 290,000/ 2012 has 589,000 with a six speed manual, replaced that motor @ 305,000 and the transmission at that time (clutch looked brand new) the 2013 has 160,000 on it. Looking to buy another one. I own a delivery business and those cars ride a bunch every week. Thanks for the article- I’ll do this with mine for now on.
Hey scotty, I’ve got a 95 f150 with the straight six, 4.9. It’s having trouble starting, but idles and runs well. I replaced the throttle position sensor, the map sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the throttle body gasket, replaced the air filter, starter and changed the water temperature sensor. Nothing has helped, the truck turns over and eventually starts, but sometimes it takes a minute. Any ideas?
Hey scott,am from South Africa, i drive vw polo 5 crosspolo 1.6 cls engine 2010-2013 model, how can i keep it running longer, i do year minor service every year from(oil filter,airfilter, oil, and petrol filter and sparkplugs), i got it as secondhand with (104 000km) now it’s at 131000km, what can i change that plays major role in entire car??
Years ago, when your car was parked, then it rained over night, water condensed on the ignition wires and the distributor cap. You go to start it and it misfires like crazy or won’t start at all. That’s not such a problem with today’s cars, but I suppose the beauty cover is suppose to protect from all that.
The owner didn’t take extra care that these Hyundai engines need to survive. Needs frequent oil changes and that’s it. More frequent than your service recommends. If you keep that in mind, they last a long time. But they don’t tell you it needs more oil than most other engines that’s why they get blown. You just have to have the prior knowledge before owning one.
well on this article Scotty I’m gonna have to disagree with you my uncle has a 2011 Kia soul and it has 265,000 miles on it and I can send you pictures of it if you want me to sure it’s falling apart but original engine original transmission every single light is on the dash no ABS no traction control anymore no AC no radio anymore but the engine and transmission are still pushing after years and years of abuse we went everywhere in that car it even spent a few years up north of so I don’t poo poo on kia that much
I want to do this with my Hyundai. 2017 Elantra Sport with 91k miles. Still runs like new. looked inside the engine with a scope and not much carbon build up, but couldn’t see valve stems too well. so I figure this would be a good preventative measure. any risks of dislodging a chunk of carbon and have it cause problems?
I have the impression that Scotty does not like KIA cars. I have one in the UK where we do Micky Mouse miles. So mine is 48,00o miles and 11 years old and works fine. It was cheap at £6,200 in 210 Piccanto) new and warranty of 7 years but you need dealer service to keep that up. Nowadays, they are too expensive for what they are.
Nice article. It’s worth noting that the engine failed, because the cat failed…because of the engine controller’s calibration. Kia will almost always fix that for free. So long as your car hasn’t been hacked up or modified by you or some “mechanic”. Recalibrate the ECU to not destroy the cat, the engine can exhale, no extravagant choking & misfiring, no premature engine failure.
My ex annoyed me to get rid of my truck that I loved and replace it with a KIA Soul(less). It got decent fuel economy and it was ok for in town driving only. The interstate was an unbearable cat-faced nightmare because even light winds felt unsteady. My breaking point was the insane insurance premium hike based on KIAs reluctance to install anti-theft measure except in the brochure. Subsequently Chicago is filing a class act lawsuit based on the manufacturers intentionally absent security feature combined with how easily these are to steal.
I always thought they look like jonny cabs 🚖 as well. 😆😎 I am still researching the best way to find a balanced schedule to clean using gdi cleaning using the CRC & then Cataclean ro ensure i don’t continue to clog or dam the cat, or the o2 sensors. Scotty, what’s your favorite gdi cleaner, should i just use the gumout complete for gdi every oil change, call it a day? The gumout total regain claims to help the gdi. Little help brother..
I am perusal this article literally waiting on my 2015 Kia souls catalytic converter replacement. The engine didn’t fail but they told me the converter started melting internally when they reviewed it. Funny enough, mine also has 80,000 miles on it and was at the shop for and oil change and GDI related cleaning. 😅
I did this job today, nothing happened, no smoke, nothing improved at all, and I have never done this before with a Kia soul 2012 and 66K miles on it. I use the PCV hose and one can CRC, wait one hour, and drive on the freeway or why. I used a whole can, waited one hour, and drive on the freeway or hwy for 15 minutes high speed of 65 mph and sometimes push the gas pedal hard to 80 mph. Maybe is me that treats the car right and does all maintenance on time.
1. Is Kia Soul the only cars that would have its engine blowup from neglect at relative low mileage? 2. If gasoline is a good solvent, is putting a chemical additive into the gasoline necessary to clean out injector nozzles? 3. Why spray thru the brake vacuum line to clean the intake valves? 4. Why not spray thru at the throttle body to clean the intake valves to clean both at the same time in GDI cars?
Scotty, i have a 2018 buick envision 2.5 liter ecotech GDI engine. the throttle body is on the back of engine towards the firewall, hard to get to. my question is i am trying to use the vacuum line from the brake booster,but their are no clamps holding it on to booster, it appears to be just push on. is it ok to start pulling on this line to try to get it off.
My intake manifold on my Edge 2.0 is plastic and has molded individual runners. What can’t the manufacturers install a nipple into each intake runner so that a supply hose system that threads to the can and to each nipple easily allow cleaner to inject into the runner close to the valve? It could even be a s grader valve mounted to each intake runner.