This video demonstrates how to install house wrap, a weather, water, and wind barrier, to protect walls from moisture and prevent air leaks. The “perm rate” refers to the rate at which a house wrap allows water vapor to pass through. The video provides instructions on how to properly install house wrap using DuPont Tyvek, a weather, water, and wind barrier material.
Installing building wrap is simple if you follow four steps: 1) Measure 12-inch overlap and 1-inch overlap on the sill plate, aiming for 2-4 inches for maximum protection. 2) Use plastic-capped nails to attach the building wrap, 3) Wrap roof paper up the wall to back up the step flashing, and 4) Secure the wrap to the stud.
The video emphasizes the importance of choosing the best weather barrier or house wrap for your home and following the best practices for housewrap installation. The video also provides a link to an Amazon affiliate link for the stapler I like for these types of applications.
In summary, house wrap is a synthetic material used to protect walls from moisture and prevent air leaks. It is essential to follow manufacturer instructions and ensure a well-protected building envelope with TyPAR®’s expert guidance.
📹 Installing Tyvek Weather Barrier House Wrap: How To Build A Shed ep 12
Come learn how you can build your own shed! In this video I show you how to properly install a weather, water and wind barrier …
Should house wrap be stapled?
The use of plastic cap nails or staples is recommended for fastening building wrap, as they seal holes created by fasteners penetration. These methods help resist air infiltration and water holdout better, preventing water from entering through staple holes, which can lead to rot and mold. The more holes, the higher the risk of complications and negative long-term effects on the building envelope. Self-adhering peel and stick building wraps like TYPAR DrainableWrap™ Peel and Stick eliminate the need for nails and staples, streamlining installation and providing unique drainage benefits.
How do you attach a house wrap to a house?
House wrap is a protective covering applied to the bottom of a building, overlapping horizontal and vertical joints by a minimum of six inches and twelve inches respectively. It should be fixed every 12 to 18 inches with specific stapling nails or nails designed to hold down the material. The installation of house wrap around window and door openings involves a Y-cut from corner to corner, then the loose material is folded through the openings and fastened securely. All seams are sealed with manufacturer recommended tape, including over layers, top and bottom edges, and rough openings.
Rough handling or long exposure to wind and construction debris can cause damage to the house wrap, allowing air and moisture to enter the wall system. It is crucial to seal and repair any damage. Overexposure to UV radiation can also cause discoloration, photo-degradation, loss of tensile strength, and water repellency. The UV-rating of a house wrap is the maximum time it can withstand sun exposure before becoming damaged.
Does house wrap need to be tight?
Building wrap installation involves several steps to ensure maximum protection and occupant comfort. The first step is to install the building wrap from the foundation upward, ensuring that joints with the higher course overlap the lower. This can be done by starting at the bottom of one end of the wall with the printed side facing out. For maximum protection, a 2-4″ overlap on the sill plate is recommended.
The second step is to use plastic-capped nails to attach the building wrap, as they seal holes made by the penetration of fasteners. Studies show that homes with cap nails and cap staples resisted air infiltration and water holdout better than those without caps. The more holes, the better the chance for complications and negative long-term effects on the building envelope.
The third step is to overlap the bottom layer by 6″, ensure proper shingling, and cover all seams using tape. Sealing all laps and penetrations with adhesive flashing tape can improve the building wrap’s performance by 20 percent.
Finally, inspect the building wrap for any rips or tears before installing the cladding. Weather-resistant barriers act as an air and moisture barrier, allowing moisture vapor to escape from the wall cavity to the outside.
TYPAR MetroWrap™ is an example of a commercial-grade house wrap specifically engineered for buildings four stories or higher, making it ideal for multifamily projects. It boosts energy-efficiency with superior air holdout, reduces energy costs, safeguards healthy spaces, and does not support mold growth (ASTM D3273). Contact TYPAR today to learn more about how building wraps can improve occupant comfort and indoor air quality for your next multifamily project.
How many layers of house wrap do I need?
Layering housewrap is not the best practice as it can hinder the building envelope’s drying potential, increase moisture-related failures, and hide water damage. The question arises when projects have standard flat housewrap installed but require enhanced drainage. If budget allows, it is recommended to use a rainscreen over the housewrap for maximum draining and drying potential. Rainscreens like Slicker®Max or HydroGap provide a drainage gap behind cladding.
If layering becomes necessary, consider the current housewrap’s UV exposure limit. Most standard housewraps have a maximum UV exposure of 120 days, so if you exceed this or creep up on it, there is a risk of potential underlying damage.
How many layers of house wrap?
Layering housewrap is not the best practice as it can hinder the building envelope’s drying potential, increase moisture-related failures, and hide water damage. The question arises when projects have standard flat housewrap installed but require enhanced drainage. If budget allows, it is recommended to use a rainscreen over the housewrap for maximum draining and drying potential. Rainscreens like Slicker®Max or HydroGap provide a drainage gap behind cladding.
If layering becomes necessary, consider the current housewrap’s UV exposure limit. Most standard housewraps have a maximum UV exposure of 120 days, so if you exceed this or creep up on it, there is a risk of potential underlying damage.
What goes behind house wrap?
Flashing is a crucial protection mechanism for water infiltration in a house, as it deflects water away from entry points. Vinyl siding enhances the appearance of a house, but it requires a strong, solid wall behind the exterior cladding. Insulation and waterproofing are essential for long-lasting vinyl siding. Common materials behind vinyl siding include wood, foam, and paper. If you’ve been paying attention to your house during construction, you may know what material is behind the siding. This blog provides ideas on what to find under your siding to ensure a long-lasting and refined look.
Does house wrap need to be taped?
HydroGap’s seams should not be taped due to several reasons. The elimination of seam tape allows for unrestricted drainage, a path of least resistance, and unrestricted vapor transmission. It also eliminates the need for clean and dry WRB surfaces during installation. Tapes can be installed in all temperature conditions, reducing installation costs by up to 13 percent. However, achieving a continuous air barrier with a housewrap is challenging, and tape adhesion degrades over time. To learn more about housewraps, refer to “Understanding Housewraps: A Decision Guide for Selecting the Right Housewrap”.
What is used to fasten house wrap?
Failures in building envelopes can be due to improper techniques, such as not applying enough pressure, improper flashing, or using conventional staples instead of cap fasteners. It is recommended to use cap fasteners as they hold the housewrap and underlayment better and reduce the risk of tearing in windy conditions. Cap fasteners are also required for a complete system warranty. Not using the recommended system and securing the warranty is a failure in itself. A systems approach allows for better building and maximum performance of the building envelope. For full step-by-step installation guides for Benjamin Obdyke’s housewraps, click the links provided.
What is the best fastener for house wrap?
It is recommended that nails or staples for house wrap be selected from the following list: STINGER Fasteners and DuPont Tyvek Cap Fasteners. The installation process is more expeditious when utilizing STINGER collated tools in lieu of manual fastener application. It is recommended that the wrap be integrated with windows, Tyvek HomeWrap under aprons, or under non-self-adhering sill flashings, with the window flashing shingled.
Can you put house wrap directly on studs?
DuPont Tyvek HomeWrap is an air barrier that can be used over or under sheathing, but it doesn’t protect the sheathing as a secondary water barrier. It’s suitable for use over studs without sheathing, but sheathing is recommended. Tyvek DrainWrap is a weather-resistant barrier that promotes bulk water drainage behind siding, like cedar, by channeling moisture safely to the outside. All three products are equally effective in both directions, but StuccoWrap and DrainWrap have a specially engineered surface that should be placed vertically.
Does house wrap go on before insulation?
The combination of two products can markedly improve a home’s insulation from external elements. The installation of rigid foam housewrap is typically performed beneath the insulation, rather than around it.
📹 How to Install Housewrap Solo
Watch all of Fine Homebuilding’s “There’s a Better Way” video tips …
Nice work. When the bottom edge of the wrap is nailed those nails also support the top edge of the lapped wrap. Use minimal nails or another method like tape to hold top edge in place until the bottom edge of over-lapping sheet is nailed down. Saves nails and reduces holes. Hope you sealed the cut ends of the treated wood.
Help. I’m purchasing a TuffShed which I will finish as a tiny cottage in Phoenix, AZ. I asked why the TuffShed rep marked that I would not be insulting it. He said so I would get the radiant barrier. Otherwise I’d only get the house wrap. The radiant barrier is supposed to keep the shed cooler. What are your thoughts?
Painters pole is good as long as the ground surrounding the structure is all relatively leveled out at the same height all the way around. When I work alone with just the little 3 foot rolls I get my starting edge stapled in well at the right height, roll out roughly 4 feet hold the roll up and taught with my left hand then staple a row with my right and continue all the way around. Follow up after the row is fully in and cut to length and finish tacking it in everywhere
nice article. Just a heads up that tyvek is an air barrier and moisture barrier, not a vapour barrier, as it is vapour permeable and designed that way. Vapour barrier is typically the poly that is stapled up inside over the insulation, in a northern climate anyways. Various other materials such as spray foam can also act as a vapour barrier opposed to the typical poly over insulation batts.
So this might be a complete waste of material, but would it make any sense to attach a piece of tyvek wrap around the bottom of the sheathing before installing maybe 6″ up either side to create a complete wrap under the bottom of the sheathing? I’m thinking of minimizing moisture exposure at the bottom of my wall, even with vinyl siding installed over it. Or would that just be a complete waste?
It’s not a vapor barrier. Vapor barriers have a perm rating of less than 1. Tyvek has a perm rating of around 58. It is a great product for cooler drier climates. If we are going to be completely scientifically accurate, it is a WRB which stands for Weather Resistive Barrier. It’s designed to block bulk solid water, while controlling moisture vapor (humidity) which collects and condenses inside the wall. It is only an air barrier if you seal it completely at the top plate and bottom plates.
Hey thanks for the article. I’m perusal it because I’m renovating a shed that was apparently built in 1980. It’s in BAD shape. Had they put a vapor barrier in I wouldn’t be renovating my shed. The outside was just OSB, and all of it had to go. The painters extendable pole is going to save me so much time!
Thanks, I am trying to do my own Tyvek… My home is in a small town in Beautiful Northern California 95531 . It seems no one have time for small jobs for many . Sadly there are homeless that change more then a licensed human being dose . Because they don’t want to fix a beautiful home built in 1,800s
Thank you for the content! It was super informative! One question though, when you showed the scene cutting out the threshold, did you not put any kind of barrier between your sill plate and the concrete slab? I know it’s pressure treated, it’s just code where I’m at to be pressure treated and have a moisture barrier between concrete and sill plate
Thank you for this article. We have a window that is only seen on the outside with drywall and insulation on the inside. I wanted to remove the window and close it to include plywood, siding and of course the wrap. This article gives me the perfect way on how to do it. I rather pay a friend to help me since the window is about 12 feet in the air. I’m sure a typical contractor would charge me hundreds to do it.
Did a remodel on my house, built in 1985 using Dupont Tyvek. Total waste of money using it. The stuff was all to pieces. What little of it remained whole, you can tear like tissue paper….something impossible to do when it is new. I’ll never use anything but 30# black felt again. Pulled that off 100yr old buildings that looked like new. I have samples of the crappy Tyvek that came off my house for anyone that wants to see for themselves.
Loved your article. You explained in detail, including what type of fastener you used. Very few people mention that. You could also be an English teacher. Your speech and language is well synchronized for all to understand each and every bit you wanted to communicate. Your wife and kids are lucky to have a man like you in your family. Thanks for the lovely article.
Please stop calling it a vapor barrier, its not a vapor barrier. Its a (liquid) water and air barrier, but it lets vapor (moisture) through. Calling Tyvek a vapor barrier is just going to confuse and mislead people, and you clearly stated at the beginning of the article that it lets vapor through so idk what you’re doing.