Dupont, the manufacturer of Tyvek, advises against using this house wrap on interior walls as it is specifically designed for use behind exterior walls. The International Building Code (IBC) requires a water-resistant barrier to be installed behind the exterior. Tyvek is often used to refer to water-resistant barriers (WRB), also known as house wrap.
During Tyvek installation, timing is critical. All Tyvek® products in Canada and the U.S. have been tested and approved for use behind exterior walls. However, DuPont™ Tyvek® Protec™ provides a high-quality roof underlayment choice. If you wish to use a housewrap like Typar or Tyvek, you can use it as the inner layer (if permitted by code) covered with an outer layer of Grade D or asphalt felt. Attach the expanded metal lath with special lath nails.
Tyvek house wrap is commonly used in the construction industry as an effective air and water barrier, safeguarding against moisture intrusion and preventing moisture leakage. However, it is not recommended for interior walls due to condensation issues. A proper “housewrap” allows water vapor to pass through relatively unabated while preventing air from passing through.
Dupont does not recommend Tyvek for interior walls, but DIY sites have suggested it over studs to protect insulation. House wrap will still allow the house to breath, keep out water beads, and stop air from leaking in from gaps in the siding. Properly installed, DuPont Tyvek HomeWrap helps block air from getting inside walls, keeping drafts out, and protecting insulation’s rated performance.
📹 Housewrap Testing – “Orange Box” House Brand vs Tyvek
I had a question on my blog recently that prompted this video. Someone asked if Tyvek that I use is really worth the extra cost?
Can mold grow on Tyvek?
Surfactants, found in construction materials like shingles and siding cleaning solutions, can cause moisture to pass through building wrap material, affecting exterior wall framing, insulation, and interior finishing. Moistening can also cause mold and decay, posing health hazards to occupants. House wraps must be durable and easy to install, as they can rip and puncture easily. Tensile strength is a reliable method to determine a wrap’s durability, as tear resistance is crucial to eliminate issues caused by high winds and moisture exposure.
Tyvek House Wrap, with a tensile strength of 30/30 lb./in, may not be enough for protection against damage during and after installation. Choosing a reliable product that can withstand these procedures is crucial for the safety and cost-effectiveness of your house.
Can you use Tyvek on the interior?
Tyvek® Weather Barriers can be installed in both directions, with the logo facing inwards or upside down. However, StuccoWrap® and DrainWrap™ have a specially engineered surface that should be placed with grooves facing outwards in a vertical direction. Vertical installation is not recommended for DuPont Tyvek® StuccoWrap®, DrainWrap™, and CommercialWrap® D. If vertical installation is used, ensure that the vertical seams overlap by at least 6 inches and are taped with DuPont™ Tyvek® Tape.
This method provides the best Tyvek®-to-Tyvek® adhesion, optimal protection against air and bulk water penetration, and extra durability protection during the building’s construction phase. Installation instructions can be found on the website or on the roll label affixed to the product.
Does water go through Tyvek?
Tyvek® is a multilayer material that can delaminate after being rubbed due to shearing forces. It is water-resistant, strong wet or dry, and breathable, allowing water vapor and gases to pass through. Its moisture vapor permeability is higher than that of plastic films, but its air permeability is low. Tyvek® is dimensionally stable from -73°C to 100°C, but it is recommended not to exceed 79°C under tension in printing or coating operations.
Its folding endurance is excellent, as it can be folded over and over without damage, making it useful for maps and book lamps. Tyvek® also has a memory effect, similar to paper. Customers should test the performance of Tyvek® for their specific application.
How thick should interior wall vapor barrier be?
Mil thickness is a unit of measurement that determines the durability and puncture resistance of a vapor barrier. It is equal to 0. 001 inches and is often cited as a minimum for residential applications. The thickness of a crawl space vapor barrier can vary depending on the environment and expected use. Standard thicknesses range from 6 mil to 20 mil, with 6 mil being the bare minimum and 20 mil being the most heavy-duty and puncture-resistant.
A perm rating is another important unit of measurement for a vapor barrier. It measures the permeability to moisture, which is how easily water vapor passes through a material. A material must have a perm rating of 0. 1 or below to be classified as a vapor barrier. Our vapor barriers that are 6 mils (0. 06 perms) and thicker meet this minimum, but a thicker material provides extra protection.
The cost of a crawl space vapor barrier depends on four main factors: the type of vapor barrier, the environment, the expected use of the crawl space, and the desired level of protection. A thicker material provides additional protection.
What is the difference between interior and exterior vapor barrier?
A vapor barrier is a material used to slow or reduce water vapor movement through a material. It is installed on the warm side of insulation in a building assembly, depending on climatic conditions. Vapor barriers can be mechanically fastened sheet-material, adhesive membranes, fluid-applied materials, insulating board stock, or medium density spray polyurethane foam. The thickness of the material determines its vapor barrier status. However, water vapor may be transported by air leakage, which should be addressed by installing a proper air barrier.
What are the disadvantages of Tyvek?
Tyvek® House Wrap and ZIP System are weather-resistant barriers (WRB) used to protect homes and commercial buildings from air and moisture damage. However, both products have limitations, such as a tensile strength of 30/30 lb/in, a UV rating of four months, and the potential for water trapping. The WRB’s permeability is crucial for achieving this goal, as water that penetrates the system can evaporate. Additionally, the WRB must be strong and durable to minimize damage from external elements or rough handling during installation.
Barricade® Building Wrap is a better solution for WRBs, as it is strong, durable, permeable, and easy to install. It maintains its integrity against external elements and rough handling before, during, and after installation. Tyvek® HomeWrap is made from non-perforated, non-woven, high-density polyethylene fibers fused together to form a uniform web, creating small pores that resist water and air penetration while allowing vapor to pass through. Tyvek® HomeWrap is equivalent to a Grade-D 60 minute WRB and is manufactured by DuPont™.
Can you use vapor barrier on interior walls?
Building codes based on climate zones require vapor barriers on a structure’s interior or exterior. In Marine 4-8 climate zones, Class I or II vapor retarders are required on the wall’s interior frame. Climate zones 1 through 3 do not require vapor retarders. ASTM E96 assigns a material’s ability to restrict moisture by assigning a class of barrier or retarder. Vapor barriers stop vapor diffusion, while vapor retarders slow it. Class I vapor retarders are 0.
1 perm or less, while Class II vapor retarders are 50 to 100 times more moisture than vapor diffusion. A superior air barrier system, like Polyguard’s, is needed to limit or prevent moisture accumulation and condensation in the building envelope.
Does water get behind a house wrap?
Without a vapor barrier, water vapor can pass through insulation, plywood, or oriented strand board and collect on the back side of a house wrap. Most house wraps are designed to allow water vapor to pass through, but more water vapor can accumulate on the back side if more passes through at once. Older homes had no insulation and were drafty, allowing dry, colder air to pass through the walls and lower humidity.
This resulted in less condensation and a faster evaporation of condensation, preventing rot in older homes. Videos on AsktheBuilder. com show how to install house wraps and flashing tape around windows and doors, ensuring your house doesn’t rot away.
Is Tyvek 100% waterproof?
Tyvek is a waterproof material that remains stable and unaffected even when submerged in water, making it strong even when wet. Its permeable filament structure allows water vapour transmission, allowing contents to breathe even when enclosed. This permeability protects objects from splashes and light showers but not heavy or constant wetting. The recommended grades for conservation applications are 1442R and 1623E, as they have no coatings or finishes that could harm works of art and are suitable for weight and strength. Prefabricated Tyvek garment covers are also available for textile and costume storage.
What is the difference between Tyvek and house wrap?
Tyvek®HomeWrap® has significantly higher vapor permeability than perforated house wrap, allowing vapor to pass through punched holes. This results in decreased wall cavity drying times and reduced mold and wood damage. The optimal level of vapor permeability allows walls to dry quickly if water enters, preventing mold and rot. While perforated wraps may appear cheaper, a closer examination of the material science inside each product reveals that Tyvek® weather barriers offer long-term value without compromising water resistance and vapor permeability, unlike perforated wraps. Therefore, choosing the best house wrap is a short-term decision that can have significant long-term effects.
Does Tyvek let moisture through?
Tyvek® weather barriers, developed by DuPont, possess a distinctive structure comprising millions of minute pores that effectively resist the penetration of water and air while facilitating the passage of water vapor. These innovative materials have been utilized in the construction market for over three decades, with vapor permeability testing being a pivotal aspect.
📹 What’s NEW In House-Wraps – Vapor Open + UV Stable Options
Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible!
Both products passed ICC-ES AC38 testing of water-resistive barriers. This test doesn’t include penetration by fasteners. Tyvek doesn’t seal around fastener penetrations any better or worse than other sheet WRB’s. If you don’t believe me, test that aspect. It’s no surprise and certainly not a secret that a pinpunched WRB will leak water when in a horizontal position. But it sheds water well when used as designed….vertically. If you really need exceptional water intrusion resistance, use an insulated foam sheathing system…with emphasis on “system”.
I’m not in industry; call me naive but here is what I’m wondering. You mention the glass on top representing siding on a house. Siding is on the side of the house. This example is like having siding as flooring. Also wouldn’t gravity force pull the water down and the cheap wrap would act as drag/resistance from inward penetration (presuming in my case EPS would be under the wrap)? If I apply this cheap wrap over EPS insulation board, isn’t the cheaper wrap essentially catching the rain and gravity would then pull the water down the wrap rather than having it run into/through the EPS board insulation? Wouldn’t pin punching also allow air flow for better drying of this rain catching wrap? Wouldn’t the pin punched wrap allow quicker evaporation from increased airflow across top of wrap vs if water got in with Tyvek, airflow is more limited causing potential for water to remain trapped between the tyvek wrap and the surface of the EPS?
Let me give some “data”. I used the Everbilt wrap from Home Depot when rebuilding my chimney stack. I figured it didn’t even have house wrap when built and I don’t drive a Cadillac. This article gave me pause, of course. Well, as I was finishing the house wrap rain was threatening, so I used the house wrap to cover the chimney opening. I tried to make the center higher, so water wouldn’t collect. The storm that night was pretty strong and there was a lot of hard rain. The next morning I found out I didn’t make a great enough slope and there were two large puddles in house wrap at the top of the chimney, maybe 3 to 4 inches worth. Which proves that THE NON-TYVEK WRAP KEPT THE WATER OUT ALL NIGHT! That’s not opinion or a gimmicky demo – that’s real life. The cheaper wrap may not be as good as the Tyvek, but it still meets building code and that’s good enough! I have no worries now that I used the Everbilt.
Many USPS and FedEx envelopes are made from Tyvek, and that should tell us the cost is worth it if you want the contents to remain clean and dry. Plus, the resistance to tearing from wind or someone pushing a ladder up against it is a huge plus. I’ve looked at the less expensive alternatives but most don’t share all of the same benefits as the real thing, so when it came time for me to buy home wrap for my own home I went with Tyvek.
I used Novawrap and was meticulous….as a matter of fact on the chimney chase i used synthetic roofing underlay because we have to wait for stone…had it all done before insulation started. We had a driving rain and had walls leaking all over. Looking outside the Novawrap looked like wet toiletpaper. Re papered with tyvek and no leakage
Thanks for the article. I was looking for a comparison of precisely these two products recently. One thought – I’m not sure the horizontal orientation of your test was totally realistic. Not defending the cheaper product, but if you could do a vertical test that would show performance in a situation more similar to most applications, I think. Thanks again.
Not a very good test and I tell you why. Tyvek or any house wrap for that matter is generally not applied over a level surface. Its applied to the side and will or should run off as water generally does before it has the chance to seep through it. Its not meant to hold water like a bowl, but the tiny holes should be small enough to prevent penetration as it beads its way down a vertical surface.
I would also like to see a test of the one directional osmosis capability tyvek claims. I think they claim the outer layer blocks water, obviously, and the inner layer allows trapped water to escape giving it a breathable quality similar to what goretex claims in clothing. If it is effective, then yeah, it’s truly good stuff, but I still can’t call the perforated membrane of low quality on a vertical wall. Maybe I’m missing something. Would really like to know the answers.
What is all this discussion over a few bucks. How many 150′ rolls does it take to wrap a typical home…two maybe? So, we are talking about less that $200…a grain of sand on a beach. The most important difference in the wraps is that most woven polyolefin wraps such as Lowe’s and others has around a 12 perm rating for vapor while Tyvek homewrap is 54 if I recall correctly. This means when there is opportunity to release vapor when ambient humidity is low, Tyvek will dry the structure much quicker. I could be wrong since I’m only 58 yrs old and still lots to learn! LOL
FYI, my house is 35 years old and I’m replacing my front porch ceiling. Once I demolished my prior ceiling to expose my joists, the Tyvek on the front of the house under the porch roof slope had pretty much disintegrated. It’s falling off in large pieces, crispy, brittle, and torn. There is house framing over the Tyvek, so I’m lost on how to repair/replace this house wrap. Apparently Tyvek didn’t last on this house.
Today’s modern build trend is to make them air tight, not like before when you may have heard a house needs to breath. With that said, yes it does, if you build air tight forget house wrap seal it up tight with tar paper but make sure you install an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) and vice-versa, if no ERV a wrap is needed so the house can permeate.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t see the usefulness of a water penetration test on housewraps. My understanding is that housewraps are used as air infiltration barriers to keep outside air from penetrating the exterior sheathing and will allow any trapped moisture to escape. If someone is hoping that Tyvek will prevent water penetration to a structure, then something was wrong during the construction. If I were testing these products, I would try pulling a vacuum on them to see how much air flow resistance each allows, then do a moisture evap test to see if they allow trapped moisture under each sample to evaporate.
Realistically, waterproofing a house is very difficult. Houses built tight usually won’t stay that way because they move or swell. They may if they’re built like a submarine, but that’s about it. So, since moisture creeps in from so many sources, including sweat, I want something I know can breathe enough for longevity, but not enough for damage. Every layer, from the facade to the interior paint, creates a membrane. The wrong combination of membranes can create and trap moisture. On a vertical wall, I wouldn’t mind the perforated wrap. I’d like someone to correct me if I’m wrong and tell me why. I’m thinking on a practical, experienced, and science background level, so elaboration would be necessary to convince me.
I plan on having plywood sheathing wrapped with 3/4in exterior rigid foam(most likely the foil faced type) then a brick exterior cladding. Which Tyvek wrap would you recommend and should it be between the wood and the rigid foam? Is the commercial grade version that much better then the residential grade?
It would be interesting to see a standard test that illustrates the most optimum for the application. I would think that someone has found “the best balance” between air permeability and water resistance when used in the walls of standard size home with a specified mount of moisture. Tyvek has some air permeability which must be necessary. I am guessing the econo wrap has more air permeability based on the generalized rule of air permeability vs. water resistance.
Misleading. The guy simply cannot be trusted because he is deliberately making the test unfair. Housewrap must be tested in its _working _ position, . i.e. positioned VERTICALLY. So the big-box cheaper wrap (essentially a fancy tarp) should work just fine to divert whatever water penetrating behind the outer house layer (e.g. vinyl siding) then running DOWN with gravity, gliding on the surface, not STANDING there (esp. FORCED in there with the clever glass trick the guy employed). Water simply having little chance to penetrate the material if it is positioned VERTICALLY. In that case woven (generic) vs. non-woven (Tyvek) nature of the material does not mean that much. Not 50% more in cost in my book. Clearly to me this is some sort of a sales pitch, not a fair comparison.
Excellent job and man, the article is worth more than 100 pages of marketing materials. I’m amazed at all the people leaving comments who seem to know everything about building science but have NEVER worked on a remodeling project where the cheaper house wraps and flashings have failed. Haters and Doubters live just to hate and doubt. Thank you for posting this quick article.
The real information here is the second cheaper product is pin-punched for breathability. Of course it’s going to allow water to seep through those holes. The question many commenters are asking is how real is this ‘experiment’ for actual use. That’s exactly the correct question. This guy isn’t going to answer it. This is a baloney ‘experiment’, it’s marketing, but not practical. Tyvek is like goretex, allowing water vapor (single water molecules) to pass through, but not liquid water droplets. That can be a really valuable trait, if liquid water is likely to be present, and the housewrap needs to keep it from entering. My understanding of housewrap is that it’s primarily a seal against drafts, it needs to ‘breathe’. Waterproof? Then they’d be wrapping houses in 3-6 mil plastic right? I’ve done house construction, but won’t claim any expertise. M y current interest is for camping gear; my use will be ‘roof’ like, but also completely different from its use as housewrap. The pin-punched might explain why ‘tyvek’ envelopes from the post office don’t seem to be waterproof. Good comments.
Want the best? Ignore housewraps and use good ol’ tar paper. If you look at siding being torn away from new buildings that were built using Tyvek or equivalent, often it has completely deteriorated in 5-10 years. Then compare that to a house from the 60s which used tar/felt paper and it still looks like the day it was installed. On top of that, tar paper tends to seal around fastener penetrations. No competition. Tyvek is great stuff for US Post envelopes and lightweight tent footprints, but I’ll never use it on my house.
Thanks for continuing to address this very important element. I’m wondering: are you saying there is no place for the reflective faced wrap in northern climates? Is it because the heating demand is much greater than the cooling? Is there not a reflective material that also has a perm. factor? Thanks again.
I have to say, I really was impressed with Dorken products, but was utterly pissed with their sales team. I understand they want high volumes, but they were all but uncooperative with my small business. Perhaps just one sales person sucked, but they rarely followed up, wouldnt finish my RFQs, and didnt seem to have any means of working with my local distributors as an alternative to going direct. Not sure if it is just the region or what, but I cant buy a product they seem to go out of their way to not sell to smaller outfits. How did you end up getting their products? Direct? Distributors? There are no distributors in my area which is why they put me directly in touch with their regional sales team, but the lack of follow up was frustrating.
Having built (and usually designed, as well) in cold climates for nearly a half century now, I think that the statement that the vapor barrier should be on the INSIDE is perhaps neither the entire, nor the best word on this subject. I have become fully committed to continuous exterior insulation, with sufficient R-value in the exterior foam so that one can still batt the framing cavities (law of diminishing returns says relatively less value in all respects, but keeps the building officials happy) and NOT have condensation in those cavities. Trying to crate an air barrier on the inside surface has been done by myself, and others, and I see all those efforts as doomed to failure; there are too many “loopholes”. With the exterior foam, NO vapor barrier on the inside wall surface; that is a future disaster that we settle with the plans examiner way before starting construction. Straightest path to the finish line is to seal at the exterior surface of the sheathing, and be done with it (presupposes conditioned basements, crawlspaces and attics, as well). For myself, I also am fully committed to a 100% liquid applied VP barrier, due to the complexity of projects. I would however, be amenable to a combination of sheet materials, along with judicious use of liquid-applied (think “outie” windows). My experience suggests that a self-adhered material has huge advantages over “dry” wraps. First, it kills air networking between the wrap and the sheathing, and, presumably does a better job of self-sealing at all the fastener penetrations, either the ones to hold it in place, or (of more concern to me) the ones from applying the furring, siding, etc.
Watching your website for a while and I’ve been doing drywall 20 years in Missouri well I’ve learned that most of the house’s around will not last and do nothing to save on heating and cooling if anything they will cost more than older homes heating and cooling bills. They look good but are made cheap and most are around 250,000 and will have mold within 3 years. Lots of money for a house that could make the home owners sick
A comment about damaged house wrap: Some years ago (probably 20+), there was a minor scandal when folks removing siding were finding the Tyvek house wrap in shreds. It did not have excessive UV before being covered and the siding was correctly installed. This was reported in Fine Homebuilding or (New England) Journal of Light Construction (I forget which). duPont did take steps to address the issue, probably by revising their Tyvek product. The point is, there are a lot of houses out there with the old product. If you are a builder/renovator, don’t be surprised if you find something as Matt displayed towards the end of the article. Best of luck.
The red headed step child of building materials: coatings. Like Rodney Dangerfield, they get no respect. Even though coatings can out perform most “house wraps”, they are not labeled a “house wrap” even though they are the only material that can present a monolithic membrane with semi permeable air, water, moisture barrier. C’mon Matt…
Matt, I spoke to a Tyvek rep 1/26/2023. He said that Dupont no loner approves with non gasketed fasteners. Specifically the 1″ crown staples that DuPont makes mension in their document K22331. There are a lot of Tyvek articles our there that show non gasketed staple be used as the primary fastener. What I the use of the non gasketed fastener? Can it be use or no?
I’ve been planning on insulating my garage in southeast TX and found it has no sheeting, no wrap and the existing siding is rotten and it’s all that’s keeping the structure stiffened. I’ve been perusal your content to get some ideas, and I really love your opinion. I was thinking of just going with a zip system with the liquid flash. Would that be overkill since I’m going to have the garage door on one side that will always be leaking air and radiating into the space. Interested in your opinion.
Would you mind explaining why these are supposed to be better than Tyvek? Tyvek Homewrap and Tyvek Commercial wrap have UV exposure limits of 4 and 9 months, respectively. Delta Vent SA is only 50 days and Delta Fassade SA is 7.5 months. Yes, you showed some beat up Tyvek, but based on the specifications, it seems like Delta would fair no better. They are more expensive for…. what exactly? I don’t think it has ever been explained. If it’s supposed to hold up better over time, let’s see some of that. You did see the results of the J.J. Pickle Research Center after all and posted about it in your blog. (can’t see the pictures any more though).
See, you say certain things are for the scorching hot south, and certain things are for the freezing cold north. But what about the Midwest? I’m in Cincinnati, OH… and I never know which to follow. I’m literally right in between zones 4 and 5. I tend to lean towards the more northern options, but I never really know. I’m not a builder, but I’d like to become one in the future.
I know it’s a little off topic, but long story short, I have a East-facing wall that was wrapped in Tyvek HomeWrap the last day of January (located in Monterey, CA) and siding is finally going up in a couple weeks. It’s a few weeks beyond the exposure rating of 120 days. Is it trash or can siding (with rainscreen) go up without worry?
While I find these articles quite enlightening, the real education needs to take place with the people who write “codes”. In a large part of the US, rural building authorities have stopped even inspecting, let alone providing correction. Builders have figured out where to build cheaply with minimal government interaction–and I’m 30 miles from a major city.
call me un-informed but if a house is being built and you normally would put the house wrap on then the siding but it takes the siding a long time to go up(i.e. the wrap would be exposed for over a year) wouldn’t it be best to save the good wrap till its ready so it is protected from uv light and have a temp/sacrificial wrap that is easy to go up for the time being? thinking about it now while typing i can see an argument about windows and doors needing the be watertight as they are installed but baring something large i would think getting a wrap and siding up in a reasonable time would be a priority.
Matt, Most of the Smoky Mountains in Tennessee is Zone 4. I have been struggling on determining on what to do with the outside and inside of my walls. I will be using SIPS outside my timber frame. I originally intended to use Prosoco on the outside of the sips and then create an airgap between the sips and the board and batten. I did not plan to do anything inside as I am going to use a dehumidifier/ERV system. Does this sound like a good idea?
I’m Building in Zone 3-4 i’m on the line so probably zone 4 to be safe everybody talks about Very hot or very cold Zone 4 is very hot in summer and cold in winter in the 20’s at night occasionally definitely not northeast cold but it is cold from time to time I am thinking about 2×6 wall with 5.5 inched celluse or open cell spray foam in wall and 8″ open cell rough deck with Zip R9 on entire home your thoughts will this work this climate zone
Matt, I am working on a project and my boss has chosen to use Dow house wrap Weathermate and 1 inch dow foam over a osb 2×4 wall assembly. Where should the house wrap be installed? Over the foam or over the OSB? We are in Texas. The directions For the Weathermate says over the OSB. The direction for the Dow Foam Can not be found on there website for this or any exterior aplication.
Matt- does it make sense to do the details with a higher end house wrap when combining with large sliding windows? I’m in climate zone 3C (Southern CA) on a view lot. I will be installing two 30’ x 9’ Anderson Multi-glide windows. Should I go to the expense of a nice house wrap/insulation with such big openings in the wall?
Your past articles use SA foil barriers, wraps “Tyvek”, and on some rare occasions, fluid / liquid applied. What is the current day recommendations? I am around the Pittsburgh, Pa. area. I like the idea of a fluid applied over the sheeting, foundation and door/window openings. No “origami” as you put it. I can see the attraction of plastic wrapping for the quick and dirty builder. My dream would be T-studs with 3/4″ plywood (not OSB) with a quality commercial fluid rolled on and then 2X layers of 2″ comfort board. Are the test panels of barriers you showed still relevant? Thanks for the great article content.
I’m not using house wrap I bought cheap mistint exterior latex paint and painting the wood very heavy like to keep the water out OSB is a joke plywood is what you want, and build the roof at least 4 feet past the wall so rain doesn’t get the wall wet. Anybody that doesn’t build like this should not be a builder.
Timely. I’m remodeling my place in Minnesota and had to cut away an entire side of my house to install windows. Now I need to get a new wrap/barrier in place to seamlessly blend the old stucco with the new wall system. Spray foam going in the inside next week, r-guard flashing around the windows, just need to figure out the right wrap to go over the sheathing.