Priming is a crucial part of prepping to paint, as it helps the paint adhere more effectively to surfaces. Two coats of primer may be necessary for a more uniform and solid base, particularly for drastic color changes or surfaces with significant stains or irregularities. For latex primer, a wait of two to four hours is recommended.
Choosing between single or double coats of paint for your house exterior depends on factors such as surface type, color, quality, and finish. Exterior primers provide a base coat that helps paint adhere to surfaces more effectively, ensuring that your paint job lasts longer and maintains its appearance over time. Primer is just paint without color in it, and both primer and paint are classified as such.
To select the right primer for your painting project, consider the type of surface, finish, and performance you need. Compare acrylic and alkyd primers and find out if a primer has been exposed to weather for six months. This guide will help you understand what paint primer, sealers, and undercoats are and how to choose the best paint sealer or primer for your project, whether it’s interior or exterior, wood, metal, or masonry.
It is recommended to wait at least two hours between coats of primer and a good 24 hours to start on the paint coats, which need about 4-8 hours between coats. Most manufacturers recommend waiting 30 days before needing to be re-primed, but it may be fine depending on the top coat.
After priming stained surfaces, allow them to dry for four hours, test a small area for bleeding by applying the topcoat before painting. There is no maximum recoat time for most standard house paints, so it is typically safe to apply a second coat after four hours for latex paint and 24 hours for oil-based paint.
📹 WHAT is the DIFFERENCE between PRIMER, SEALER & UNDERCOAT paints?
On this episode we dive into the world of Prepcoats and find out the difference between a primer, a sealer and an undercoat.
How long to wait between sealer coats?
Between coats: The first coat must not only dry, but also cure sufficiently to prevent pickup before the second coat is applied. Shady or sheltered areas may require a longer drying time. Allow at least 2 hours between coats on residen- tial driveways so as to minimize pickup or tracking. All manufacturers recommend 24 hours between coats or before opening to traffic.
Methods of application: Apply sealer with a brush in the trimming areas. For the most efficient sealing job possible use a spray sealing applicator capable of mixing and blending, with an agitator, sealer, and sand.
Directions for application: Mix until the sealer is of uniform consistency. Mechanical mixing is recommended and will lessen time in obtaining uniform consistency. Do not apply when temperature is expected to drop below 50 degrees F., or if rain threatens before the sealer is cured. Application is recommended early in the day or when at least 2 hours of sunlight remain upon completion of the job.
Thick coats will not cure readily and could result in pickup and tracking. After the first coat is cured, apply second coat so that all pores are sealed. To determine whether the first coat is cured sufficiently, use the thumb test. At various locations and while exerting approximately 10 pounds of pressure, twist thumbprint 90 degrees. Lack of pickup on thumb indicates sufficient curing of the first coat, and indicates you should be able to continue with your second coat.
Do you have to sand between primer and sealer?
Sanding primer before sealing can improve adhesion and durability. The time between applying primer and sealer depends on the product, so it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. When choosing a primer, undercoat, or sealer, consider the surface being painted, such as wood, metal, or concrete. Choose a product that is compatible with the surface to ensure maximum adhesion and durability. Additionally, consider the type of paint used, such as oil-based or water-based paints. For example, a primer compatible with oil-based paints will be necessary for water-based paints.
How soon can you apply a second coat of primer?
The time between applying a second coat of primer depends on the type of primer and the surface being painted. It is generally recommended to leave around two to three hours between coats, but it is crucial to follow the instructions on the primer can. It is advisable not to use more than three coats of primer to avoid a thick undercoat that doesn’t dry properly, leading to cracking or chipping, slow paint drying, and uneven finish. One to three coats of primer are ideal for any home paint job.
How long does exterior primer take to cure?
Primer typically drys quickly, but it takes at least 30-60 minutes to cure before adding the next coat. It takes at least 3 hours before adding another coat or removing the new color. The first coat of exterior paint should be fully dry to the touch, which can take 3-10 hours. For latex-based paint, the first coat should dry for 3 to 5 hours before adding the next coat. Latex paint typically drys in 1-3 hours, but it’s crucial to ensure the previous coat is fully dried before adding the next one.
How many coats of primer sealer?
In order to guarantee a robust adhesion between the newly applied paint and the wall surface, it is advised that two or three coats of primer be applied, covering any previous coatings, particularly those of red, orange, or outdated hues, which typically necessitate two coats for the majority of painting projects.
Is 1 coat of sealer enough?
The number of coats of primer, undercoat, and sealer needed depends on the surface and the product being used. New surfaces typically require one or two coats of primer, while previously painted surfaces may require multiple coats. Sealers typically require one coat, but multiple coats may be needed for porous surfaces. Sanding primer before sealing may improve adhesion and durability. The time between applying primer and sealer depends on the product, so it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Choosing the right primer, undercoat, and sealer depends on the surface being painted, as different products are designed for different surfaces. The type of paint used, such as oil-based or water-based paints, also plays a role. For example, a primer compatible with oil-based paints will be necessary for oil-based paints and water-based paints.
Can you do a second coat of sealant?
Two layers of silicone sealant can enhance its durability and longevity, providing extra waterproofing protection in areas prone to moisture or humidity. However, compatibility between the two layers is crucial to prevent issues like poor adhesion or cracking. Proper thickness control is also essential to avoid over-application, which can lead to wastage or uneven surfaces. To apply two layers effectively, follow these steps:
- Clean the surfaces thoroughly with water and soap.
- Apply a thin layer of silicone sealant to the surface, ensuring it is even and even.
- Allow the sealant to dry completely before applying the second layer.
How many coats of exterior paint after primer?
It is standard practice to apply two coats of exterior paint to a surface that has been adequately prepared and primed, particularly when painting a dark color over a lighter one. In the event that a lighter color is being applied over a darker one, the necessity for additional coats may be greater than two. To facilitate a seamless transition, it is advisable to utilise a tinted primer.
How long does primer sealer need to dry?
Latex primers typically dry within 30 minutes to one hour, but for optimal results, it is recommended to wait for the primer to completely dry, which can take up to three hours depending on temperature and humidity. This is the prime time for painting. Primer is particularly important when switching from a low sheen to a high sheen, changing from a dark color to a light color, using Our High-Hiding Primer, or in humid environments like bathrooms. It is generally recommended to use primer in these situations to ensure the new color looks its best.
How long can exterior primer sit before painting?
Oil Base Primer takes 30-60 minutes to dry to the touch, but 1-3 hours is recommended before applying topcoats. Water Base Primer takes 60 minutes to dry to the touch, and can take up to 24 hours in ideal conditions. Popular primer brands like Kilz, Zinsser, Behr, and Loxon are designed for quick drying times. A good rule of thumb is to wait at least 60 minutes before applying a topcoat. Allowing an hour for primer drying is a good baseline, but there are variables that can affect the speed of drying.
What happens if you recoat primer too soon?
It is recommended that a minimum of 24 hours elapse before the application of paint over primer to prevent the potential for improper adhesion, flaking, and peeling. The time required for paint to dry is contingent upon a number of factors, including the time of year and the temperature of the environment in which the paint is being applied. Additionally, climatic conditions can influence the rate of paint drying and recoating, particularly in the context of time-sensitive interior painting projects.
📹 How long should you wait between coats of paint
Hey guys! I’m Brad, and I make how-to videos. I do custom painting projects, guitar painting, guitar modifications, airbrushing, …
Very helpful, I used to be confused about the difference, To be fair, these days many undercoats, sealers and primers come as one. Wherever I can, I use Dulux One Step. As far as I can tell, it is the best on the market, although a little pricier. Have you produced an episode on oil based undercoat, or pigmented sealer. Cheers
Dunno how you popped up but that was a fantastic presentation. Been using the products for years that you talk about. You just answered at least 10 questions that I didn’t know I needed to ask. Physically know how the stuff works but great to have it all defined and explained clearly. Thanks very much
I want to paint a plastic bottle but i think i’ve purchased the wrong thing (undercoat) …instead of primer ….do you think the undercoat will at least as good if not better than primer to paint new surface of the bottle ? I wanted to buy a primer but all the confusion lead me to undercoat…now that i found your article i think i am dead wrong 😀
Thanks for explaining. I have a newly laid concrete surface of 276m² which will be the floor of a duck house. They wee and poo a lot! I’m doing my best to explain to these Thai builders that they need to sweep the base, use PVA solution to first seal it. I was confused if we can just top coat with red paint or do I still need a primer, then top coat. Trying to save money. Should top coat be specifically garage floor paint and should it be water or oil based? Would love some advice! 😬
Monday Twentieth of November Two Thousand And Twenty-Three. 20.56pm. “Dear Sir. Good-evening. How are you? I trust you are very well.” 👍 “I, still do not know what Primer, Sealer and an Undercoat are. Even after perusal your article. You did not explain it well.” “You spoke too fast and included too much information.” ☹️ Yours Respectfully. Sir Francesca Kray. 🌹
Thank you Brad for your article. 7 years since you uploaded the article & it’s still helping people out like myself, a DIY’er . After 3 do-overs and looking at and studying YT University articles, I came across your laid-back approach and I stopped trying to overthink my little paint project. I’m pleased with my result, and confident that any future projects were greatly improve . Thanks again.
Sir I have a question, I wanted to paint my bumper today with acrylic spray paint but I ran out of paint before completing the process, I ordered another can of paint. It will take 2 3 days to arrive. Would that cause a problem? Have to wait 2 3 days to apply another coat. Do you recommend continuing the process or start from primer again??
So im working on my car and im using rustoleums automative line of paint (there red color branded series sold at walmart) If i paint a particular panel say the hood, would the safe route be to say wait a day, lightly sand and do the next coat, wait a day, etc. Or would waiting longer be better just to make sure its really dry and cured?
I would like to use spraymax 2k clear over duplicolor caliper paint. The caliper paint says to “apply all coats within 1 hour waiting 10 minutes between coats. For additional coats after 1 hour wait 7 days for paint to cure.” Should I apply the Spraymax 2k clear within that first hour or after 7 days?
This website is super handy, thanks for explaining things so clearly. I know you’re not an on-call painting advisor but I’m in the middle of spraying my telecaster with rust oleum color and rust oleum clear coat. The few color coats I sprayed are drying. After it has dried completely for two days do you think it would be ok to do a color touchup on the same day I spray three coats of clear? I want to sand and prep the guitar for clear coating, do a light color touchup, probably a few passes with the spray can, then wait ten minutes for it to flash and begin doing three rounds of the clear coat spray. I’ll allow ten minutes for each clear coat to flash. I figure if I keep it light I can probably sneak that touchup in. It’s a cheap tele and I’m not aiming for a flawless finish but I’m trying to avoid any significant looking screw ups
What about clearcoats? I try to follow the tds to the T, but this new clearcoat that i’m using, I’m having trouble getting die back. The tds says flashtime is 8-10 min bewteen coats. Within 10 min, it is still tacky. Should I wait until the first coat is hand slick before applying the second coat? or should it still be tacky?
No discussion on the effects of temperature or humidity on flash time? I was looking for someone who could explain visual cues to whether or not your primer, base, or clear was flashed enough for the next coat. I understand that most paint can recommendations are lab run at 70 degrees F. Houston saw 70F on a Thursday, last year! 90F is probably a more likely temperature, by the time I take my 30 year old car down to metal, prep, and actually shoot any paint. And it will be humid; I will probably have to paint it in the garage with the door open.
Hi Brad! I have just painted my tele body barely a week ago with an acrylic paint. My fault is that i didnt wait enough time between coats (aprox 5-6 coats). The paint dried somehow and i surprisingly managed to sand it with 180 400 and 600 sand gauge but besides the good sand the paint didnt turn up like dust (morelike rubber kinda stuff) when i sand it so i am doubting it didnt dried well but hey I was a confident motherfck haha and really liked the way it turned the finish of the body (butterscotch blonde) and put coats of lacquer on it with sanding between. At the beginning the thing looked ok but the problem comes now a week after as i push my finger nail into the coat and leave marks. I “think” that maybe the clear coat didnt dry yet (im not sure – it was a spray can lacquer from a do it yourself store) and probably i need to wait more time (manufacturer says complete overall dry time aprox one hour 😂😂 and between coats 20 min). Or maybe is the acrylic paint that didnt dried well and is still acting like chewing gum under the coat. I used a fan towards the body all this week pretending to dry it but was worthless. Its still the same softy look. 😕 Hope you can give me some advice to manage at least fix the problem if ill try to do it again! Great and very useful website! All the best and by the way new suscriber! Cheers man!
Hey man, My situation: I noticed that when I was fixing imprrfections (when sanding the topcoat once they had cured and all) some paint will not stick well to it on the sides of the project. So I decided to flip my project down apply a adhesive promoter on the sides to give it a nice coat and it looks great on the sides. Question: Now let’s say I used a adhesive promoter and then I applied my top coat on the sides of the project. The paint cured and it has been a week. Now I want to keep painting the front side of my project so I was wondering if I use the adhesive promoter on that side and paint t would it ruin the other side of my project? (Im pretty sure some of the adhesive promoter will land on the sides of my project that I already finished) I know this is a confusing question but my English it’s not that good so I tried my best to describe my situation. Either way, thank you for all the information in your website. I have learned a lot.
Thanks for the article. I have just sprayed 3 coats of acrylic clear spray base paint over the scratch on my car door. (Of cause after prime coating). I am not happy as it looks cloudy. I have not used a clear coat yet. I think I need to buy some more paint again. Being wintertime over here, can I wait for 4 months before applying a couple of coats again? Will sanding and respraying be good? And, what should I do to get shiny like the original color?
I painted my guitar with black acrylic paint, i sand it down to remove orange peel (1200, 1500, 2000, 3000).Now i bought “acrylic clear coat”, should i sand guitar down before applying it or should i polish the surface to get gloss finish? And if i need to sand it, which sandpaper should i use to remove gloss?
Informative as always Mr. Angove. However, one quick query: acrylic primer base coat (3 layers, in 10 minute intervals as per instructions) all lovely and smooth, how long does this need to be left before the coloured layers of acrylic? And then how long does that need before the clear coat? It’s the times between different paints that are still mysterious. Thanks man, your invaluable help has prevented me from turning my frustratingly pain in the butt guitar into firewood.
Hey Brad, I’m currently working on a headstock. I’m unsure on official dry time for my clear coats. I’ve wet sanded and applied numerous clear coats 3 a day over the span of 3 days. Sanded after they dried for a day. Trying to conceal a waterslide decal. Anywho, I’m completely unsure when I can put the hardware back on the headstock. It’s the high gloss 2x by rust oleum which would be acrylic. The cab says 1 day. But with so many coats I’m not sure if it’s fully dry or not and I do not want to mess us the clear by putting on my tuning pegs and the paint could still be too soft. Any thoughts or ideas?
You have to have some practice to understand tutorials, even if they are basic. As far as I know, flash off time is to let your solvent dry a bit before you put on the next coat, be it oil base or water base. What confuses me is. If oil base solvents evaporate faster why can you paint over water base paints quicker? Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, you are a good communicator!
I have a problem with paint cracking when I apply clear coat. I make plaques and most of them have multiple colors, (one I’m working on for a FBI agent has eleven different colors). Clearly one color needs to dry before painting another color as I have to taper over previous colors I’ve painted. If a job is one color, I just wait 30 minutes after painting, then I clear coat with no problem at all. But, multi-color projects where paint dries for several days, then clear coating causes severe paint cracking. Normally I use Krylon, sometimes Rustoleum, (both brands react the same), and clear coat with 1K Evercoat 100718 Cut-In Clear. Any ideas?
Hello Brad, spraying yeti cups, 6-7 coats of clear with slow activator, mid 80’s temp in my back yard, only waited 7-8 minutes between clear coats, I have small flake like bubbles underneath the clear. Wet sanded and polished smooth, but the flake like bubbles are still there…did I rush between clear coats and trap solvent underneath? Thanks for your help
I am doing a paint job on plastic and I need to add more than one color so I have prep the plastic surface painted plastic primer then waited a day sanded it lightly now I need to paint base coat black then on the top I need aluminum and chrome color how shall I proceed paint black then with in recoat time I apply chrome and aluminium color or wait for the black to dry apply aluminium color then wait for it to dry and apply the chrome can you give a brief idea thanks
Hey Brad. Awesome article; I enjoy your articles and more importantly learn quite a lot from them. So in summation, 2 passes of lacquer, wait a day, then some more passes until the desired coverage is achieved. So how long do I then wait to apply the gloss top coat? I’m using Stewart MacDonald antique gold on topping it with Mohawk Finishers Choice Clear. I’m thinking at least 48 hour cure time for the antique gold and then top coat with at least an hour wait between clear coats and then wait about 30 days before polishing. Sound about right?
Hey Brad thanks for posting these articles! I’ve learned a lot! Question, my project currently are the tumblr cups. Should I be using an adhesive promoter like bulldog? I am attempting to use a base coat, first color, design (sticker) then top coat, sand and clear. Have you done a article on painting a cup that I have missed? Thanks again for all your articles!
Hi, firstly, love the website. I’m about to paint some parts on my car with cans. My problem is, I have cellulose base mixed coat and acrylic compatable clear coat. The clear coat says to wait 24 hours after base and then sand and apply clear coat. Normally when I’ve used cans before, I allow approx 30 mins and then start with the clear. What would be your advise here? I don’t really want to have to re-prep the panel before clear but also I’m worried about them not bonding properly and getting clear coat peel down the line.
So I have spray painted rustoleum on a wood cabinet last night, but I ran out of light. I had to let it sit overnight. Unfortunately, there are still some hard to reach areas that didn’t get covered properly. Pocket holes actually. It’s just a cabinet for my shop, so I didn’t want to fill them. I didn’t think about how difficult spray painting them would be. So, is there anyway to touch up these areas, now? How long do I need to wait, etc? I would really appreciate your help. Love your articles! Thanks!
Great article…I have a question that I hope you may be able to help with: So I’m working on a project (Using enamals) with a flash time of 10 min. Paint brand recommends painting all layers within an hour, and if applying a clear coat to also have it on within an hour. Simple, if I were just using one color…however, I am doing some design work on it, which requires me to paint a base color, tape off sections for different colors, and pulling tape lines for, etc. for a final look. The paint isn’t dry to touch until 1 hour, and to handle in 3 hrs…So there’s no way to do all a clear within the hour recommended. Not sure the best way to proceed (In other projects, using similar paints, waiting a day or two to do the final clear creates a crackling affect, that I don’t get when applying clear within the hour). How would you recommend I tackle the final clear coat for something like this? Thanks in Advance!
Great article Brad! I have a plastic body part that I sanded with green scotch brite, put 2 coats of rustoleum primer12 minutes between each and every coats, followed by 3 coats of “Gloss Cherry” followed by 2 coats of clear….. the second and last coat of clear, developed a run can this be fixed with out removing everything and starting over? If it can be fixed, how? All paint was from rustoleum. At this point it has been 24 hours since the last coat and I havent touched it. Thanks for any help