Rigid foam insulation is a type of thermal insulation that resists heat flow and provides a protective barrier between the external environment and a building’s interior. It is typically attached to the exterior side of framing and provides a continuous insulating layer that reduces thermal losses through thermal bridging. There are three types of rigid foam insulation: rigid plastic, rockwool, and rigid board insulation.
Rigid insulation is primarily designed to resist heat flow and provide a continuous and uninterrupted blanket of insulation around a home’s exterior sheathing and weather-resistive barrier (WRB). Rigid insulation sheathing is made of rigid plastic foam and is typically sold in 4×8 or 4×10-footboards. The boards are available in various thicknesses and R-values, with 1-inch and 2-inch thicknesses being common.
Rigid insulation provides thermal protection and can also serve as an air and moisture barrier. To upgrade the major building enclosure, it is recommended to remove existing cladding and install rigid foam insulating sheathing. Rigid board insulation is made from rugged, dense sheets of certain types of foam and is stronger, resistant to water and pests, and can act as an air barrier when needed.
Exterior rigid foam keeps wall sheathing warm during winter and warm sheathing stays dry. BSC describes the use of exterior rigid insulation board in the enclosure assembly to act not only as insulation but also as an effective way to take advantage of the thermal, air, and vapor resistance properties of rigid foam insulation.
📹 Rockwool Exterior Insulation vs Rigid Foam
Roxul Comfort-Board 80 on this LVL framed House! SO MANY benefits – Fire Resistant, Non -Combustible, Sound Absorbent …
What is the purpose of exterior insulation?
Continuous exterior insulation reduces thermal bridging, a significant source of heat loss in buildings. Stone wool is ideal for continuous insulation due to its thermal performance, moisture management, and fire safety. It reduces thermal bridging through wood framing, allowing heat to escape during winter. Stone wool is also vapor permeable, allowing superior drying potential within the wall system.
What is type 2 rigid insulation?
Korolite® Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) is a high-performance, closed-cell, rigid foam insulation material that primarily utilizes air as its primary component.
Is rigid insulation expensive?
Rigid foam insulation boards are available in various sizes and cover 32 square feet. They cost between $0. 60 and $2 per square foot, with an average cost of $1. 50. The cost varies with the R-value of the boards, with higher R-values resulting in higher costs. Installation costs range from $50 to $150 per hour for removing old insulation and installing new insulation. Prices may increase if drywall is needed, unique dimensions are required, or additional materials are needed.
Room size also affects the cost, with prices ranging from $550 to $1, 750 for a 500-square-foot space and $1, 650 to $5, 250 for a 1, 500-square-foot area. The final cost depends on the type of insulation, its R-value, labor, and material costs.
What is another name for rigid insulation?
Polyisocyanurate (PIR), also known as ISO, is a thermoset plastic product used as a foam in rigid thermal insulation panels, often with aluminum foil facing. There are three main types of rigid foam panels: Polyisocyanurate (PIR), Extruded Polystyrene (XPS), Expanded Polystyrene (EPS), and Styrofoam. These petroleum-based products have varying characteristics, performance, and ecological impacts.
To choose the right foam insulation panel, it is essential to understand their expected performance and environmental impact. Alternatively, natural green insulation products like hemp insulation panels, batt insulation, or mineral wool can be used depending on the application and budget.
PIR has a thermal performance rating of R6-6. 5 per inch, but its performance deteriorates as low as 15°C and -20°C. It can be a good choice for high-performance building envelopes, as long as it is kept warm. However, it is important to note that polyisocyanurate foam panels may not perform as well as other insulation products in colder winters.
What is exterior rigid insulation?
Rigid foam sheathing is a continuous insulation strategy applied to the exterior of a building, providing thermal protection and air and moisture barriers. It is made of rigid plastic foam and comes in various thicknesses and R-values, such as 1-inch and 2-inch. There are three primary types of rigid insulation: expanded polystyrene (EPS), extruded polystyrene (XPS), and polyisocyanurate (polyiso). EPS and XPS are thermoplastics, susceptible to deterioration in high temperatures, while polyiso is a thermoset with a higher melting temperature.
XPS and polyiso have higher density, higher R-value, and lower permeance than EPS. When installed on exterior walls of a home, the foam can serve as a drainage plane, replacing house wrap for time and cost savings. Proper taped seams with sheathing and flashing tapes ensure continuity of the drainage plane at joint joints, preventing water ingress for the system’s life. Sheathing tapes and flashing tapes are also needed to integrate the top edge of diversion flashings with the drainage plane.
What is Type 3 rigid insulation?
Type 3 and Type 4 polystyrene insulation, which is typically extruded, features a closed-cell structure that ensures long-term water resistance and excellent mechanical properties, while maintaining a high thermal resistance value of R5.
What is the difference between rigid insulation and regular insulation?
Rigid foam insulation is a stronger, water and pest-resistant material that is ideal for basements and crawl spaces due to its resistance to blowing and shifting. It also serves as an air barrier, which can be achieved by sealing the boards with tape and spray foam. Available in various thicknesses and widths, such as 2-ft. x 8-ft. and 4-ft. x 8-ft. panels, rigid foam can be easily cut and wedged into place. It can also be glued to surfaces using caulk, panel adhesive, or spray foam. When choosing the right rigid foam insulation, consider the three main options:
What is an example of rigid insulation?
Rigid insulation, such as Expanded Polystyrene (EPS), Extruded Polystyrene (XPS), and Polyisocyanurate (Polyiso), is a crucial component of building codes like the International Code Council (ICC). These codes update insulation requirements regularly, ensuring compliance with local ordinances and energy efficiency. Building codes like the IECC use thermal resistance values (R-values) to communicate insulation performance requirements. A higher R-value per inch of rigid insulation results in better performance with a thinner profile.
Is rigid insulation waterproof?
Rockwool Comfortboard and Type IX EPS are moisture-resistant insulation products; however, polyisocyanurate may deteriorate over time, thereby reducing its effective R-value.
Where is rigid insulation used?
Rigid board insulation is a versatile material used in construction, covering the entire building envelope, including walls, roofs, attics, and foundations. It is commonly used on exterior walls, basement walls, and foundation walls for backfilling. Commercial roofing systems also use rigid insulation to insulate buildings from above and create drainage slopes on flat roofs. To meet energy codes, many commercial roofs require more than five inches of rigid insulation above the roof deck and below the roof membrane. Rigid insulation is unique in its ability to be applied continuously, ensuring uninterrupted insulation across the building’s surface.
What is type 4 rigid insulation?
This Type 4 shiplapped insulation panel, composed of extruded polystyrene foam board, is straightforward to handle, cut, and install. It is suitable for both interior and exterior applications. The material offers thermal resistance of R7. The product exhibits a compressive strength of 5 PSI and high moisture resistance, rendering it an optimal choice for use in above, below, and under slabs.
📹 Simple trick to Exterior Insulation and Window Depth
Using Exterior Insulation on a Window without adding the thickness, Matt explains how Roxul helps achieve this detail.
Great demo of those mineral wool boards. I see a lot of passive house builders using dense packed cellulose in exterior cavities (between the air-sealed plywood siding and the house-wrap). Seems like adding mineral wool on top of that would be ideal, adding fire protection and extra water resistance without compromising outward drying potential.
We had an issue with Roxul and the use of masonry veneer. The manufacturer of the masonry anchors wouldn’t certify the connectors for buckling for the lateral earthquake forces. Rigid insulation stabilizes/braces the veneer anchors from buckling but you don’t get that effect from Roxul since it is softer. If you are using stone veneer, what kind of masonry veneer lateral anchors are you using and are they certified (for seismic/wind forces) with the use of the softer Roxul material.
I don’t think it beats fibreglass by very much for R value and noise reduction, but it handles moisture a lot better. (Not as good as foam, of course.) It doesn’t wick moisture or lose R value when wet as much as fibreglass does. I can also work with it without gloves. It doesn’t stop mice, but I don’t think any insulation does. Apparently it’s a lot better for the environment than fibreglass and foam as well, and it’s pretty easy for us DIY types to work with.
Who manufactures the “green” layer under the mason-stucco layer is applied? I think you said “Borrell” or similar synthetic Lath system manufacture but the link seems to be missing. I’m in Scottsdale, Arizona. Temps reach 120degrees in summer. Dying to replace all my stucco. Also looking for info on J-joints and bug screen updates if needed where the wall meets the foundation. Thanks ahead of time! Great articles!
FYI: Rock-wool or Mineral-wool (brand: Roxul was featured) is NOT a new product and has been out for many years, and now even Home Depot & Lowes carries it. I’ve used it on many projects and always had huge success with it…. better R-value, easier to install, fire-proof, water-resistant, and much better sound-dampening properties. It even works great for Tiny Homes and guest homes.
Great articles as always. Just one question, how will you be attaching the exrior final facade/siding? Layer of Rockwool is obviously not structurely strong enough. So would you use some super deep and strong fasteners that would go throught rockwool and into the studs? Would love to see the scheme of your wall design.
Roxul (rockwool) is standard practice up here in Canada. We have been using it in installations for at least 30+ years. It is far superior to fiberglass for any installations where you might get water penetration or moisture buildup as it completely dries and doesn’t lose its insulation value. As mentioned, it is completely fireproof and also doesn’t sag at all in wall cavities. Its also rated for firestopping here as well. Excellent product.
Curious if you used it on the roof as well. Are you also adding insulation to the wall cavity as well? If so, what are you using? I am going to build a metal building workshop in liberty hill tx that has z-girts horizontally at 4′ spacing. Is this rigid enough to be applied with only being attached at ends and middle? Will be covered by metal corrogated panel. I have Been considering whether I need the advantech sheathing since the bracing will be steel cable integral to steel frame. Looking forward to the answers to all of the questions in this discussion thread. Love your articles.
Why is it Americans are behind in new products in Europe and Australia and other places in the world EPS panel has been replace with PIR which is lighter and fire proof EPS absorbs a lot of water/ lets off extreme smoke and dangerous fumes Here in Australia I have built large food factorys for the last 30 years and 15 years ago we went away from EPS to PIR because fire insurance companys would not insure EPS panel building Rockwool is good but very heavy and expensive compared PIR the only place we used EPS sometimes is under floor slabs its called waffle pods and is use were highly reactive clay soils are found I see EPS is used in America for around footing for the cold (you should see what EPS looks light after 20 years in a -24 deg freezer it is solid ice) it is used in SIP walls which is a high fire danger and for insulation in houses if EPS catches alight all I can say is have good smoke detectors and get out of the place as fast as possible and don’t tell your insurance company that you have EPS in the house and I won’t even start on our extremely tough bush fire rules for construction of houses in fire prone areas of Australia
Roxul – Rockwool is what I’ve looked into. (same) – Soon, i hope, to find a person to build Gabled Roof Frame over back room to meet original house’s. (replaces rotted flat roof) Question – I was Wondering HOW to Place it Against the Inside of Lap Wood Siding of back room (’60’s) & Attic (1920’s) Walls. Nothing had ever been placed there (Fla. House) – Roaches Crawl in, Not willing to crawl out. =6 What is Needed Against Wood BEFORE Rockwool? Thanks much! ~ just wish my brain Knew Long ago. (books then lacked this) Learned last week, from you, about ability of Back of Wood to Dry out – hence – Nothing, I noted that blown insulation – now in outer walls, (28 yrs ago), I think has caused Paint to pop off in areas. (not to mention it’s Over Active Knob n Tube Wire, a no no later learned) =|
In Norway we have used this stuff for 70 years.. xps or foam is illegal due to fire hazard, we also have this stuff caled Glava that is made from glass, it’s easyer to work and dosent burn or mold. Our houses here often have 1,5 by 8″ wall studs, with glass wool. On the innside we use plastic film to block humidity. then 2 by 2″ with glass wool and also room for tecnical installations without breaking the plastic barrier. On the outside we have asphalt sheeting, then tyvek vrapping + 20mm “clamping” studs. then 2 by 2″ cross brasing before weather shield or cladding.. You get 60mm of air gap between the tyvek and cladding.. this makes the heat stay out and the building stays dry due to the air sirculation behind the cladding.. you should try this on one build 🙂
We’ve used Rockwool often on the inside and outside of concrete basement walls and garages but never on framing, though I was aware of it’s fire resistant rating I’ve always thought it was a great idea for external walls in wooded/forested areas that might have brushfore concerns, but I do have a question relating to siding and I know you’re using stucco for the exterior, what about the manufactured sidings such as Hardie Board were used, I noticed you weren’t bringing it tight to the window and door frames and that was my question, Is that to allow a 2×4 anchor point for siding or your stucco? My basic question is how do you avoid ending up with a recessed door/window after you’ve adding the rockwool 2″ thick on the outside of the home? Do you have to use windows and doors with special framing/spacing,
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So I have an older house that I just pulled out all the old isolation in the attic and just finished air sealing it and ready to insulate. Spray foam is not an option and my pitch on roof and piping makes it difficult to install rock wool bars. So I have been researching spray fiberglass or spray cellulose. But I still cannot decide which way to go. Any advice
Where can I find info on this that really lays out the details? For example, if it’s 70F inside with 45%RH, and it’s -10F outside, if you have R8 around the outside over an OSB sheathing and you’re using drywall inside, what is the temp of the inside surface of the insulation and would it be below the dew point? What if you use this in addition to insulation in the wall? After all, R8 is not a lot. I hear people talking about it but nobody really touches on the actual science.
I like the positives about this product. I’ve seen it used in a basement installed between the framing and the interior barrier of the concrete foundation. If I remember right typar was used over the concrete. Are there any cons? What is the process when the exterior finish cladding is siding? You mentioned the product has a percentage of recycled material? What exactly is the recycled content? About 5-6 years ago I contacted Roxul and also spoke with a rep at a trade show. They said they don”t recycle their materials, its all new. I was inquiring because of the amount of waste going to landfill in new installation and removal of old when renovating. Is there currently some kind of waste/return program, or strictly in house? Not that rockwool in itself is a problem in a landfill.
Great article! Exactly what I was looking for and wondering about, and I now feel comfortable making a decision to go with Roxul for exterior insulation. On the “4 things that I really like about this” at 6:40 – maybe one of “fire resistant” and “non-combustable” was intended to be minimal drift in R-value, in part due to the minimal contraction/expansion discussed at 2:50? (That was something I didn’t know about and definitely appreciate.)
the firm I work at spec rockwool all the time for the walls though we do tend to stick with polyiso for the roof due to its high R-value and weight. Our projects are all in the arctic and subarctic so we have very thick exterior insulation for walls and roofs… but I do wonder which approach is really best if we need to do multiple layers for either product (Matt mentioned rockwool being beneficial as you can use just 1 layer of 2″… maybe that works in the states but in Canada we are dealing with colder temperatures in most cities… and, again, the projects we work on are in the coldest places in the country). If anyone had any insight on this – if you’re a builder or perhaps know of how these insulations perform over 20+ years… would be great to hear what you have to say!
You started the article with a frightening statement to builders, “I’m using a product I’ve not used on my houses before”. That sudden elevator drop feeling. How DO builders get past ‘This is what my dad used, and so it’s good enough for me’ Or ‘I’ve been using X since my apprentice days’… The liability falls on us when we try new products.
To add, the comment about the consistency of the R-value is a bit inaccurate… If you go to Roxul’s website you’ll see the r-value actually goes down when the temperature goes up… so at +40 deg C the r-value is 3.6/inch whereas it’s 4.3/inch at -4 deg C. I hear a lot of conflicting info about the r-values for polyiso and rockwool, and it changes depending on which manufacturer is talking… Here is a report done by Soprema that is showing that the r-value of rockwool fluctuates much more than Polyiso (decreases basically linearly as the temperature increases)… is this accurate? files.soprema.ca//2019-01-29/Polyiso_See%20the%20big%20picture_ENG%202019.pdf5c508d4d2eec8191dbc0c510a2035143f6c11e71f4a34.pdf
These flame tests are so stupid. You could hold a bic lighter up to the middle of a block of wood and it’ll also not catch on fire, but it doesn’t mean wood is fire resistant. I’m not saying mineral wool would catch on fire, but to show it you should at least hold the flame up to an edge/corner that would have a realistic chance of catching fire (were it flammable) and also use a hotter fire source.
Great article, but I have even more questions now! My house exterior is a mess. It is aging 3-coat stucco that had been painted (badly) and there is no wood sheathing — just celotex (spelling?) fiberboard then the stucco. Is there any reason that the exterior couldn’t be replaced with first putting rockwool bats inside the wall cavity to replace the old probably-droopy fiberglass bats, then rigid rockwool as both sheathing and insulation, then finish with a one-coat stucco? (no membrane, no wood sheathing) The first contractor I spoke to wanted to put the foam board (the exact brand that was on that apartment building in England!), then a wrap, then 3 coat stucco. Listening to him, I felt like I’d be jumping from one frying pan into another at the very least or worse — jumping from the frying pan into the fire (perhaps literally).
Have a bedroom with a texture, wallpaper like covering. In back of it is plywood which is an exterior wall. Should I use roxul comfort board and purple sheet rock over it? Can I fasten the comfort board straight to the plywood with no studding since studs would close up the room. What fasteners can I use.
PROBLEMS: – Off-gassing Formaldehyde (Carcinogenic) + use mask, goggles and fully protect your skin when installing. – Absorbs water -if water stays in contact with the Mineral wool for long (and not just poured at an angle for short time) or a lot of water vapor accumulates in it. – When wet, it’s very easy to break apart. Test yourself, cut a piece, immerse it in water (simulating long periods of water contact) and then see how easy it is to break apart with your hands + A Doctor’s toxicology review: youtube.com/watch?v=MSJjipaPxUE
Great stuff but the point is mute as you really can’t get it here in the NW. Box stores don’t carry their products and no one else seems too. Searched the entire Seattle area with no real results. Then when you factor in the shipping costs to SE Ak as compared to fiberglass or rigid foam of about four times well it is costly if it were available. Then four times the price for the material as well. Now that is just the insulation batts good luck with comfort board. Then specify a thickness—Dreamer. I contacted the manufacturer and judging by the lack of response I would gather they really aren’t serious about selling the stuff. Eventually the Europeans will enter the market and take over but until then it just isn’t available here. Take care. Doug
R-value of 8 is insufficient to replace the need for interior cavity insulation. If my goal is to only exterior insulate and replace the need to insulate interior cavities, would I need to step it up to Comfort-Board 110, and if so, what is the R-value for Comfort-Board 110 (their website unfortunately does not list this). I’m in climate zone 3 where the minimum wall R-value is 13.
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This is some of the dumbest insulation information out there. Hanging insulation on the outside of a wall. What about air washing? Insulation to function properly is to be in a sealed cavity. Dead air space. The crazy trend of hanging 2-12 inches on the outside of the wall is just dumb when you understand how the envelope of a house works. There are also mice and insect problems with this…
I Have an old house with leaky (air and moisture) board and batten siding and no house wrap. I have exposed some of the exterior walls from the inside and am considering insulating. Concerned about mould and rot, could this product be used in the wall cavities and allow for the board and batten and studs to breathe and dry out if they get wet?
On the outside, if you are using vinyl siding, you also get the benefits of fire resistance; time TO GET OUT. I also have used unfaced fiberglass insulation for the interior walls, especially around the bathrooms for sound control. I know there are other materials but we’re not all millionaires that like to live in Mcmansions.
lol. I like how you use a tiny lighter to prove its flame resistance. Having said that, I do like this type of insulation… I’m more familiar with the cavity type insulation, but still looks interesting. Question I have is, the delta drainage plain… how fire resistant is it ? Is it also a special type to go over this type of insulation? Does the type of drainage material even matter ? Love your build with the lvl’s on this house . 👍👍
How well do you think the Comfort Board 80 would work as an interior thermal break, in the southeast US, for example? Sheetrock 2×4 wall with comfort batt 1.5″ comfort board Furring strips Block wall (1960’s construction / may or may not have insulation) Furring strips Thin foam insulation Vinyl siding I am looking for the best way to create a thermal break on this house and currently have some interior walls torn out.
AdvanTech on the walls is a great idea. My concern is if the rockwool gets wet somewhere how long would it take to dry being 2″ thick and would you know if it was wet? This would not be a concern if the overhang was around 4′ or so but builders don’t want to make a proper overhang. I think closed cell spray foam on exterior walls over vertical galvanized metal website to hold siding would be the best thing but haven’t seen that anywhere yet! Closed cell foam does not break down and seals out moisture and prevents condensation because air can’t get to the surface. Outside is the best place for foam and inside sounds like the best place for Roxul.
Matt, love your articles. According to many experts the cause of the London Grenfell fire was not the insulation but the ACM panels because they were made with non-fire rated core which does not meet building code in London or here in the US. Plus they designed with an unusually large air space in the cavity. I like mineral wool. But not all foams perform the same. Polyiso doesn’t actually burn it just chars, Extruded will soften and melt at low temps.
Rockwool products seem soo friggin’ cool. I want to use it to insulate my house. One thing I wonder about, is it similar in lung-harm to asbestos? It’s blown melted rock, right? that’s pretty-much the same general structure, a kind of “man made asbestos” – do they make sure dust and fibers are too thick to get in your lungs, or blunt enough to just be like regular dust somehow?
Matt, traditional stucco systems use a “chicken wire” lath (17 ga or stronger) which is stretched over the side of the house with fasteners. I was wondering, is the synthetic lath ridged? Is it fire proof? Such a lath would transmit any lateral movement of the stucco membrane uniformly and probably result in fewer cracks resulting from minor earthquakes. I love the idea of stucco over Roxul. This totally makes sense especially on the side of a house which is in close proximity (12 feet) to a neighboring home. Provided fire fighters got to your home quickly enough, and there was no severe eve damage, you could be good to go with just another coat of paint over the scorched stucco membrane.
I’m sold. This is the 4th product I’ll be buying thanks to this show. My zip board is already on, now for several reasons I’ve decided to add exterior insulation. The fire rating, using strapping lets me lower my starter strip, the extra insulation and extra water barrier. Rockwood wins because they have incredibly detailed easy to follow instructions, 100 pages for every situation imaginable. I’m not a pro builder so this is incredibly valuable to me to get the job done right. Products I’ve bought because of build show, Zip, Cavity slider, and coming soon, Steller flooring and Rockwool.
Wait, what?! are you actually allow to use any kind of isolation that’s the smallest bit flammable? We only use rock and glass wool and similar products, it is extremely illegal to use any kind of isolation that can burn the slightest bit. And let me guess you only use one layer of plasterboards too.
what is the stuff you are using to cover the insulation? I have a house that has a wall then insulation and then plywood with the grooves. the entire house is covered with the plywood and strips of wood for the trimming of the plywood. I am tired of looking at it. but for one wall my bedroom, I want it sound proofed. I can tell the house is insulated. When its hot outside the house is cool but much later in the day it does get hot. the wood makes the house look like a patched ranch home. I painted the house some years ago but still don’t like what I am seeing. I eventually will go with stucco. I am in California.
The last spun rock type board insulation I used like that was called Phenolic foam and it caused hundreds of millions of dollars in damage to every building it was used in,now I’m extremely leary to use any rigid foam board insulation except Polyisocyanurate,I vividly remember tearing entire building apart to remove all traces of Phenolic board because it caused any metal it came in contact with to rott away to dust amd had a chemical reaction with treated lumber that off gassed toxic fumes,I see zero advantage of using this board .
Bs. Hazardous material made of resin (that afraid of UV and high temperature) and mineral dust, that kills yours lungs. As well as collects too much condensated water vapour due to it is the only insulation material with open structure inside. It get wet fast, especially in autumn and winter, when you need it the most. Moreover hard installation with special membranes from both sides. And very soft for plastering and gets softer and softer over time thanks to resin distraction. In fact, such wools are quite useful in ventilated facades of big buildings in cold countries only.
I love your articles; I have learned so much from them but you lost me here. I love the idea of the exterior insulation but this, in my opinion, is not a satisfactory solution to the additional thickness added by the Roxul. I think it looks like an after-thought, adds material and labor costs on top of the cost of the Roxul and seems like it would make it difficult to trim
I have built one home in Massachusetts and I am currently building 2 more. I really enjoy new advances in energy efficiency. One of the things that i discovered is what I call “aluminum bubble wrap” It seems like the PERFECT insulation…. very thin, bugs dont like it, no degradation over time, inexpensive, hydrpphobic, etc. What about either wrapping the INTERIOR studs just below the sheetrock? You can aluminum tape the seams and edges. All the same insulation can go in the stud bays and you dont have to make any accommodations for it. I would love to get some constructive feedback about this please. Thanks
Matt, perusal your articles has completely changed the way we are renovating our house. We have a craftsman/Victorian house in East Aurora, NY that was built in 1890, reportedly by a retired Pony Express rider. It leaks air like a sieve and looks beautiful, but has serious issues, including severed joists and crumbling plaster. Because of damage to the siding, we decided to tackle siding replacement next in our renovation schedule. I’ve done a lot of research and have watched about 150 of your articles. I’ve incorporated your methods and materials into every part of the project. We are tearing off the vinyl siding, shake siding under that, a layer of older siding and sheathing made of 1x2s, along with multiple layers of tar paper, very thin foam board and just paper. We are rebuilding from scratch, starting with Rockwool bats between the studs, where there is little to no insulation. It isn’t often we get to insulate the inside from the outside this easily! We went with Zip system sheathing, using Zip tape on the main seams and Zip Liquidflash on the nail intrusions and tricky parts. We have 46 windows to replace and are and installing them with some of the fantastic methods and materials you’ve introduced. Because there was almost 2 inches of old siding, we have room for 2 inches of exterior Rockwool board insulation. We will top that off with a 3/8″ rain screen before installing the cladding. We will be able to reroute a number of the penetrations and will use tape and Liquidflash to seal all of the remaining ones.
Love this slim window buck flashing. We’re doing this on our new addition. Seems like butting the siding up to the flashing (no tradtitional window trim) would be faster, cheaper and more sustainable. Except for aesthetics and style, has tradition widow trim finally become obselete? Thanks for the tip!
After being a builder designing and building over 200 homes, it never ceases to amaze me how complicated people make things these days. And for what reason? First it was to save material, then to Super insulate. Now there is so much material going into a house and they are so insulated they need to bring in outside air or have costly air-to-air Heat exchangers, climate control. All this what’s the cost of a house to Way Beyond people can afford and creates a bigger carbon footprint all in the name of saving a few hundred dollars a year in heating costs.