Menards offers a wide selection of spray paint and specialty coatings, including ZAR Oil Base Poly Exterior UV, which is a low-odor, water-based solution suitable for various projects. This fast-drying, oil-based, clear wood polyurethane finish can be recoated or top coated in just 2 hours, with a minimum of 4 coats recommended. It is ideal for woodwork and wood marine surfaces, and can be applied with a brush or spray can.
ZAR Exterior Oil Base Poly Ultraviolet is an incredibly fast-drying, oil-based, clear wood polyurethane finish that can be recoat in just 2 hours. Formulated with ultraviolet radiation absorbers and antioxidants, it is on-toxic, child safe when dry, and meets all environmental standards for low emission of solvent vapors.
Varathane® Diamond Spar Urethane provides the ultimate protection for outdoor wood projects in an easy-to-use, water-based formula. Varathane Ultimate Water-Base Spar Urethane provides excellent protection for outdoor wood projects including furniture, doors, and trim.
Prep and care for ZAR Exterior Oil-Based Polyurethane is essential, as it sprays a lot like lacquer and gives decent results. Its water-white finish is suitable for light-colored woods that don’t want to yellow over time.
Menards also offers various craft paint and specialty finishes spray paints, such as ZAR Ultra Max Semi-Gloss Clear Water-Based Polyurethane, which is suitable for light-colored woods that don’t want to yellow over time. With the best brands, quality, and prices in exterior paint, Menards provides the protection your home needs for its various projects.
📹 How to Spray Polyurethane for Beginners
We’ll show you the proper technique for spraying polyurethane. Applying it evenly and smoothly without leaving streaks or …
What brand of polyurethane is best?
Polyurethanes are essential for transforming wooden items, as they not only give them a beautiful appearance but also protect them from frequent wear and tear. Some of the best polyurethanes include Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane, Varathane Ultimate Polyurethane, TotalBoat Halcyon Marine Polyurethane Varnish, Interlux Polyurethane Paint, and SEAL-ONCE Polyurethane. It is essential to keep existing pieces in good condition to avoid expensive wood purchases. To make the right choice, consider various aspects before choosing heavy duty polyurethane for your projects.
Is exterior polyurethane the same as interior?
Polyurethane is suitable for both interior and exterior use, with oil-based and water-based options suitable for interior projects. For exterior use, opt for a polyurethane with UV protection and withstands the elements. Oil-based polyurethanes are typically more durable, while some water-based formulas are designed for outdoor use. Polyurethane finishes come in various gloss levels: high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte. High-gloss finishes are shiny and reflective, enhancing wood’s grain and color but displaying scratches and imperfections.
Semi-gloss finishes have a slightly less reflective surface, offering a balance between shine and practicality, commonly used for furniture and cabinetry. Satin finishes have a soft sheen, hiding imperfections better than glossier finishes, and are ideal for projects with a subtle, rustic appearance.
Is there a spray polyurethane?
Scott with Saws on Skates shares his experience with using a paint sprayer for polyurethane application in DIY projects. He initially avoided using a paintbrush due to its difficulty in applying the finish, but after trying the HomeRight Super Finish Max, he discovered that it could also be used to spray polyurethane.
The process of applying polyurethane involves proper preparation, such as thoroughly sanding the piece, filling any holes or gaps with wood filler, and applying a coat of quality wood stain. The results are amazing, and the wall-mounted wine bar looks like it came from a furniture factory.
To ensure a quality finish, it is essential to properly prepare the surface of your furniture project. This includes thoroughly sanding the piece, filling any holes or gaps with wood filler, and applying a coat of quality wood stain. Setup a dust-free environment while the polyurethane is drying, as it attracts dust like a moth to a flame. To reduce the chances of dust ruining the finish, it is important to set up a dust-free environment with a HomeRight Spray Shelter. This shelter not only protects surrounding objects from overspray but also prevents dust from landing on the furniture project while it is drying.
In summary, the HomeRight Super Finish Max offers an easier and more efficient way to apply polyurethane to DIY projects. By following these steps, you can create a high-quality finish that looks like it came from a furniture factory.
Is exterior polyurethane waterproof?
Polyurethane is a strong and flexible polymer formed by reacting polyols with isocyanates. It repels water, making it ideal for waterproofing applications. If you believe you’ve been blocked, contact the site owner for assistance. If you’re a WordPress user with administrative privileges, enter your email address and click “Send” to regain access. If you’re a WordPress user with administrative privileges, you’ll receive an email assisting you in regaining access.
How long does exterior polyurethane last?
Polyurethane coatings are a cost-effective and easy-to-use solution for extending the lifespan of furniture. In cold and snowy regions, a good polyurethane coating can last 20 or more years without needing touch-ups. In areas with less severe winters, a long-lasting coating can be beneficial. Regular maintenance is simple and inexpensive, as long as the coating is applied every few years. This not only extends the furniture’s lifespan but also ensures its appearance remains great.
Polyurethane is easy to use, allowing for quick and customizable design options. It is also affordable and comes in a variety of colors and finishes, allowing for experimentation with designs before choosing the best option.
What polyurethane lasts the longest?
Oil-based polyurethane is a long-lasting, cost-effective option for outdoor projects due to its ability to contract or expand depending on weather conditions. It is ideal for protecting wood in various climates and situations. When purchasing polyurethane for your home’s exterior or interior, consider the finish’s appearance and feel, as it comes in various finishes like matte/clear, gloss, and satin. The choice of the right finish will greatly impact the appearance of your wood buildings.
How many coats of spray polyurethane should I use?
Once the paint has dried completely and has reached a firm consistency, it should be recoated. In the event that the drying period exceeds 24 hours, a light sanding should be conducted prior to recoating. A minimum of three coats is recommended to ensure optimal durability.
What works better than polyurethane?
Shellac is a varnish made from the lac bug resin and is a softer finish suitable for lighter-colored woods and areas with high moisture and frequent wear. It can have an orange or yellow tint depending on the manufacturer and blend. Polyurethane is a more durable finish recommended for darker woods and other materials like stone, concrete, and natural surfaces like wood and bamboo. It is typically a clear finish but can be tinted to different colors.
Shellac can be applied to a wide variety of materials, but is best used on lighter woods with open pores, bamboo, concrete, and some stone surfaces. Polyurethane is generally used on harder and denser woods and some non-wood materials like concrete. It is best used on woods with closed pores to prevent peeling and is ideal for outdoor furniture, decks, and fences.
Both shellac and polyurethane have their advantages and disadvantages. Shellac is less durable but easier to apply and dries quickly, making it suitable for lighter-colored woods. Polyurethane is more durable but more difficult to apply and takes longer to dry than shellac. Some brands and finishes may be easier to apply than others.
What is the longest lasting exterior polyurethane?
Oil-based polyurethane is a long-lasting, cost-effective option for outdoor projects due to its ability to contract or expand depending on weather conditions. It is ideal for protecting wood in various climates and situations. When purchasing polyurethane for your home’s exterior or interior, consider the finish’s appearance and feel, as it comes in various finishes like matte/clear, gloss, and satin. The choice of the right finish will greatly impact the appearance of your wood buildings.
How many coats of polyurethane does it take to waterproof wood?
The application of three to four coats of polyurethane is necessary for the waterproofing of wood. It has been observed that water-based polyurethane requires a greater number of coats than its oil-based counterpart. The optimal method for protecting wood outdoors is to use a stain or sealer that contains both components.
Can you wait too long between polyurethane coats?
Water-based polyurethane requires at least two hours of dry time between coats, and should be applied two times a day. The ideal temperature range for applying water-based poly is between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with a humidity level below 60. For flooring, wait 24 hours after the last coat before light traffic, three to five days for medium traffic, and a full week before normal foot traffic is allowed.
Water-based exterior grade polyurethane retains interior poly’s advantages but adds UV absorbers and antioxidants to extend the life of wood and fiberglass. This product can be used on most exterior wood surfaces.
📹 Watch this before using polyurethane wood finish!
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I’m going to put my 2 cents worth in here and a lot of you will probably not agree with me but please hear me out before pooh-poohing my statements. I’ve been finishing bare wood for more than 40 years – cabinets, furniture, floors, and a lot of custom high-dollar rifle, shotgun, and pistol stocks. The one thing I know to be true when staining and varnishing wood is the more you sand the more grain you will see, Now, let me clarify this statement – I start with 150 grit paper then move to 220 grit – just as most people do. But if you really want to have eye-popping grain and super smooth finishes then you need to take it further. After the 220 grit I move to 320, 400, then 600 grit. I always do the 220, 320, 400, and 600 grits by hand – NEVER with a machine. Waste of time? Not hardly, I’ve tested this process and there is definitely a huge difference in grain appearance and the smoothness of the final finish. It’s the proverbial “night-and-day” type of thing. Once of my most cherished pieces is a dining room table made of birch and stained a dark ebony to get a Japanese “black lacquer” appearance. This table has such a deep and lustrous appearance that you’d think I spent days and days rubbing and polishing it. Actually, after sanding to 600 grit and staining, I put 3 coats of Minwax Gloss Polyurethane – sanding with 600 grit after the first coat then using 0000 steel wool after the second coat. The results were outstanding. Super high gloss but you can still see the wonderful grain showing though.
Great advice! I think oil-based poly is far superior to water-based. My favorite type is known as “hard oil”, and a great example is Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. It goes on very thin, flattens well, and is the most scratch-proof poly I have found. Odor-free mineral spirits or paint thinner are great for brushing or spraying. If you’re a total savage, you can water sand and polish it for a stunningly smooth, hard finish.
Wipe-on poly rocks! It’s super easy to get a nice finish. An alternative to mineral spirits for brushing is Penetrol by Flood. First coat is thinned 50/50; subsequent coats are thinned 10%-15%. Penetrol helps the poly or varnish soak into the wood on the first coat and helps with flow and leveling on subsequent coats. That’s what I did when I had a sailboat with teak trim and the varnish looked like it had been sprayed onto the wood. Between coats sanding was done with 100 grit paper. It was not too coarse. It also helps to only brush from a dry area into a wet area; never back-and-forth because the brush can leave dents in the wet finish. A few days ago I needed to apply oil based Varathane to a solid core door that was to become a workbench top. I decided to try the forbidden – (gasp!) applying it with a roller. The roller had a soft 1/2″ nap. In spite of the warnings on the can, the napped roller did not introduce bubbles. It actually went on better than with a brush. I just dipped some finish out of the can with an unwaxed paper cup and poured it over the door; then spread with the roller. Wrapping the roller with foil between coats let me use one roller for the entire job and then it was allowed to dry and tossed. The finish was not good enough for fine furniture but it was entirely good enough for an interior household door and certainly easier than brushing.
I used to spray in an industrial setting shooting oil based paint all day. My favorite mask was the blue Belcamp masks from NAPA automotive supply stores.. I don’t know if they’re still available, but they were less expensive than 3M, had a MUCH better fit and seal. Now I have a 3M just because I don’t need it nearly as often. If you’re spraying a lot, and by a lot I mean upwards of 50 or so gallons a week you should get a fresh air supply system that covers your entire body because you will absorb the solvents into your skin and will probably eventually wake up completely numb from your knees and elbows down to fingers and toes like I did.. I wear a mask no matter what I spray, no matter how much time I might be exposed. I had to learn the hard way when companies didn’t care and neither did OSHA ..
One thing missing from every wipe/brush finishing article, on every website, is them doing it on an actual project, and not just a flat board. I’ve been waiting years for someone to actually build some boxes, or whatever that has multiple sides, or curves, or just anything that resembles an actual project, and then finishes them with poly, shellac, etc… by hand. My issues have never been with a flat board, it’s when I get to the corner of a box, and need to move to the other side without letting any build on that corner, or to get it around the curve of a two sided object. Basically, YouTube is crying out for a real world, actual project finishing article… especially on smaller, detailed things, nut just a giant table top and square legs. The only people who seem to show finishing on detailed, real projects, are those just demonstrating their cool, expensive sprayers. How do I poly my boxes without leaving any marks? How do I do a piece that wraps around and has two faces that are vertical? Another article idea is how the heck to appropriately apply glue on projects where you simply cannot get in the space to wipe it off with a wet towel, or get it with a scraper, because it is so tight you already had to pre-finish the inside. I love this website, and this is a great article… I just always get bummed when another finishing article is just on a flat piece of wood. People, like myself, need real world examples. Not many people are just wiping their poly onto a flat piece of wood, laying down on a bench.
I’m loving these finish articles. I’ve been making custom knife sheaths for all my of my chef friends, and mineral oil just doesn’t cut it for these. I never had the guts to try my own poly mixes until i find your website. I tried mixing my own wipe-on poly after the last article, and the finish turned out great. I find it much easier to work with the thinned-out mixture. And, the paper bag trick worked like a charm. Thank you for the inspiration.
Thank you for informative article. I looked on line for toxicity of Poly before and I didn’t remember any permanent damage from Poly. So your article concerned me a bit and so I did another search and the two websites said that Poly is relatively safe. The amount of VOCs released during a typical application is too low to produce harmful effects. You would need concentrated long term exposure to get permanent health damage. This does not occur even during industrial applications. You can get lung irritation, headaches, dizziness, nausea, asthmatic attacks but these are temporary. I do believe that a respirator is necessary to avoid these symptoms, but I don’t think you lose brain cells from Poly. Brain cell losses could be from something else. 😉
Very informative article. Thanks. Here is a couple of additional things to consider. I like to use wipe on poly for irregular shaped furniture pieces, like chairs. A lot easier than trying to brush. Also for table tops, or tops of cabinets or dressers, I like to brush on several coats of clear gloss poly (thus no additives interfering with the clarity of the finish), making a nice thick coat which I then sand out with increasingly finer paper until I get the finish I want (satin, semi gloss, or even gloss). It gives you an absolutely smooth and clear finish, no grain marks.
I found another use for polyurethane and that is over flat latex paint. I made some cabinets for my and because I use working on vehicles as well as woodworking I wanted a cleanable surface. I tried satin polyurethane instead of satin latex paint. I’ve never liked semi gloss or satin latex paint for durability. It never seems to really dry and it stays somewhat soft. So I shot my finished cabinets with polyurethane. Its been a few years now and finish is holding up well. I can get oil a grease on it and it wipes right off.
Watched this article yesterday. I’m sealing a barn door with oil base polyurethane. I poured the poly through a strainer into a cup like you did. After I dipped the brush and wiped the excess off I noticed I was introducing bubbles in the cup which transferred to the door. I started just barely dipping the brush in the poly and shaking the brush above the top of the poly which helped. This is the first coat. Any other tips you can give me?
I’ve been home woodworking my whole life I’m 66 now I’m in the in the process of building a walnut countertop that is 5 ft long and 24 in wide made up of four individual slabs of black walnut and I have a couple of questions one would be do I need to recess a steel c website across them to keep them from warping over time or is just adding a really good several layers of polyurethane sufficient to seal it?
If you want a stain finish that absolutely glows, this is what to do. Never use poly with colour added that just always looks trashy. Never apply stain directly to wood as it soaks into the end grain more, grain is not straight with the surface but waves up and down which leads to very uneven colour absorption which looks blotchy and unnatural. Instead: Once all the bare timber sanding is done, apply 2 coats of sanding sealer without sanding between coats. This is a clear finish that has a filler added so that it fills the grain. This is especially important for timers that have a hardwood grain structure. That does not necessarily mean a hard dense timber, but a mixture of large and fine vessels in the timber. It is unusual to have a light low density hardwood but it happens, Balsa for example has a hardwood structure. Softwoods have a uniform fine grain structure. Examples of hard dense softwoods are those used for flute making, like African blackwood & Jacaranda. Anyway, no more than 2 coats, then sand lightly & clean off. It is very important to only sand lightly so that sanding does not affect the consistency of then stain colour & all end grain is completely sealed. Then you are ready to apply the stain, you can rub that on with a cloth. If desired, you can do a darker stain with a dry course cloth so that goes on in streaks that resemble grain variation, this is particularly good if the actual timber is not figured. When dry, apply finishing coats of poly. the classiest most glowing timber finishes I have ever seen were done this way.
I bought the Trend mask on you recommendation after one of your other articles. I’ve used many masks over the years and the Trend is the best thing since sliced bread !. A tip I got from one of my co workers a few years back in relation to the final coat of varnish. It works best when you are working on a flat surface, ie. you have a door on trestles or a bench. As your varnish is getting tacky, spray a fine mist using a trigger spray bottle, from above of whatever the recommended thinner medium for your product is. It doesn’t take much, but it evens out the surface of the coating. I tried it on my new oak panel doors and they looked like they had been factory pre finished. Try it on some off cuts, it will cost nothing but a spray bottle and varnish. Keep those articles coming.
My late father in his day use to hand paint coaches and when I started to make wooden signs, he showed me how to polyurethane them. I used to get a mirror finished with about 8 coats, the first coat was thinned, the rest not. I used to to go across, diagonal and finally with the grain wiping my brush of with every wipe. Perfect.
Instead of using semi-gloss and satin finishes, just use hi-gloss and buff the final coat with 0000 steel wool. The flattening agents in the other finishes also muddy the grain patterns of that nice beautiful wood with the extra special grain patterns that you spent beaucoup bucks on. If you feel you must use the semi or satin, get yourself a small can of that for your final coat and use hi-gloss underneath it. The sheen will look the same, but you’ll see and enjoy the wood a whole lot more.
I have a trick for finishing porous wood to get a glass smooth finish quicker. Sure, you can use grain fillers but also you can fill the grain pours with finish. Use the full thickness finish and pour some on the work piece then using a flat knife or body filler spreader (Bondo Spreader) and push the finish into the pours while leaving a thin a coat as possible. Sand and repeat if necessary. Or continue with your regular finishing methods. If finishing a stained piece sand very lightly only to get the main bumps down as the finish will be super thin.
For those beginners I want to add that the fine print on the can of polyurethane advises that while drying time can be a few hours to overnight or so, that cure time can be 15 days and longer. The difference between dry and cure is that you can light sand after drying but in order to use or to to place objects on a finished piece the finish should be allowed to cure. Also there are temperature and humidity considerations that affect drying time which are explained on the can as well.
From your article you are over working the finish. Brush it on and don’t keep brushing over it or you’ll get brush strokes on the finish. If you’re going to work it like you’re doing in this article then thin it before doing so however I don’t recommend doing that. Personally I dislike polyurethane because it’s difficult to apply smoothly without runs. I tend to use lacquer instead. Goes on like glass and dries quickly allowing faster recoats. You can get UV additives for lacquer
Is it weird that whenever you mention or show the solvents I can smell them? (I’ve had around 60 years of exposure – my father was a painter). Technique thing – a few of the early shots of you brushing on finish show you starting by coming in from an edge – this will almost guarantee dribbles down the raw edge – later wide angle shots show you starting on the main surface then brushing off over the edge which is much better – you can start with short strokes a hand span in from the edge going towards the end then change back into the other direction ‘feathering’ the brush to touch down on the wet area. Brush maintenance – after cleaning with solvent, wash the brush with soap & water and shake out the water, unless it is a really high quality (black) hog bristle brush (you should be able to see a change in the gloss of the bristles – the ‘oil line’ – where the natural oils in the hog bristles end – the closer to the loose end of the bristles the better the quality.
So, I don’t rightly know, but I’ve always heard you shouldn’t move the brush back and forth as we see here because it is more likely to make air bubbles in the finish. I’ve always gone in one direction only, or at least made sure the brush came completely off the work piece before changing direction. I don’t know if it actually matters, but it gives results I’m happy with.
I spent a lot of years painting professionally I don’t think there is many products that I have not used. I appreciate the information you bring to the table. All of it is good solid information. I don’t recall you taking about making adjustments to your polyurethane to deal with changes in humidity or heat. you can not always paint in perfect weather so you need to make adjustments to deal with the weather changes. I almost never use polyurethane straight out of the can. I typically thin it a little bit just to get it to level out on the surface a little better, it slows the drying little bit and allows me to dry brush it for a more consistent finish. This will help to keep from scrubbing the finish, better to thin it a bit to get a better finish, I have often started by applying the first coat thin, (wipe on) that way the product sinks deeper into the surface. I think that if you have the time, wipe on is going to give you a better overall finish, yes its a lot more coats but well worth the effort.
No matter what I say it’s going to come out wrong probably. As much as these articles are helpful to a lot of people I miss when things were being built. I learned tricks from build articles that the builder didn’t mention and might not have been aware that it wasn’t something that a lot of woodworkers knew. I bought your plans for the clamp rack but never used it after seeing the last rack you made. I’ve copied that rack and like it so much more than anything that anybody has made. Thank you for all the articles and links to products.
Stumpy, I hope you read this. I mixed a new can of mineral spirits with poly for a wipe on finish and it wouldn’t dry properly even after a few days. Seems that some of the odorless mineral spirits now contain water. Even though it says on the can it can be used as a paint thinner it definitely didn’t work with the poly. I had to strip it all off and start from scratch wasting all my time and effort.
Brown paper bags from the grocery store – – – I remember those from many decades ago. They had multiple uses beyond the free grocery carrying container the stores used them for (Textbook covers, surface protection, juvenile art projects, costumes of all types, finishing paper for varnish, and much more.) I can even remember when shopping for weekly groceries for a family of six usually averaged to abooout $10 per bag. The good old days. Recently, the only time I have seen brown paper bags in a grocery store, they are packs of lunch bags (much smaller, with less surface roughness.) Some other types of stores still have them, or similar brown paper bags, but they are the exception and scarce. (Ace Hardware for example) The modern blown plastic “t-shirt style” bags are useless unless you can find a place that takes them for recycling. (In my area, both Lowe’s and Home Depot have bins for them.) They are also useful (if there are no holes in the bottom) for cat litter and dog droppings.
Here in New Mexico, it’s dry. 8% humidity usually. Polyurethane and tung oil are my preferences. I just dip a shop towel in the can and wipe it on. I use only gloss. If I want a satin finish, I scuff the part, dilute it 50/50, and wipe it thin. The only other finish I use is amber shellac. Those have to be kept out of the sun or they develop “crazing”.
I did oil based stain on small section of dining table then applied one thin coat of Minwax spar urethane. After coat is dry for 24hr. Then I used 320 grit sandpaper to buff it before going for second coat. Problem is sandpaper has left scratchy marks and lines although surface feels very smooth. Did I misstep anything? How can the sandpaper scratches be removed?
Love your articles. I bought a used kitchen table with an old dilapidated finish. I applied EZ Strip paint & varnish stripper, scraped it all off, cleaned with TSP and water then after drying went at it with an orbital sander then hand sanded to a 180 finish. Vacuumed and tack clothed very smooth and clean. Don’t know the species of the wood veneer. Applied 3 coats of Varathane oil based Classic penetrating wood stain, (Ebony). It barely took any more stain on the 3rd pass. Once dry it looked and felt fabulous. Wish I could have left it like that. I then brushed on Varathane oil based Professional Premium Clear Finish 1200 Matte also in 3 coats. Firstly, nowhere on the can does it say polyurethane or urethane. Can you tell me what this top coat is? More importantly, with each successive coat the finish got worse. I doubled the time between coats. They say 3-4 hours and I went 8 or more. I had to sand as it appears there are hundreds if not thousands of little buggers less than 1mm but so noticeable to both the eye and feel. My garage is as clean as I can get it and I do not blow the dust off but vacuum instead followed by tack cloth. I this the 3rd coat with mineral spirits and the 3rd coat is worst of all. What have I done wrong. BTW, I did not shake the can, only stirred and the final coat I used a separate clean container so I could add some mineral spirits. 4:1 top coat to thinner. At this point I want to throw out 20 hours of work. Please help.
I like the Poly methods, thanks, however, the TREND masks are rubbish for exhalating breath, I have been using them for a good few years now, with my wood carving but and changed to a full face mask. The Trend mask is good for keeping dust out, but your breath builds up inside your mask and starts dripping on your work from the placement of the exhalation Value at the bottom. Not using again.
Thank you so much for your very informative article. Do you have any tips on how I could recover polyurethane that has become thick in the can? I paid a lot of money for the 5 gallon ‘Fast Dry – Heavy Traffic’ polyurethane last year and only used about half a gallon. I just opened the can today and noticed a very thick coat at the top of the can and when I took off the coat, the poly underneath was very thick. What can I do to make it light again so I could use it on my bedroom floor? I went to the store earlier today and saw the 2.5 gallon are selling for almost $150🤦🏻. I still have over 4.5 gallons left in that can. What do I do? I will appreciate any advice that I can get. Thanks What do I do,
Lol, i just thin out the full can with how much fits into the can shake it and start spreading it with diy brush made from folding this random roll of cleaning rags, thin synthetic sheets of cloth basically. Do the how many coats i need with pretty thick layers, then give it a sand with 380 grit and get proper brush to finish the surfaces with final coat or use spray gun. Since i use cheapest brushes around i wont clean them, but instead try to use brush end to put on the final coat, let it dry, cut out the hardened part and use the rest in some early layer or just paint jobs. If you have poly thin enough that it runs properly it will level it self out pretty well. If i make anything fancies then its the spray gun for final layer, though i should probably try that wipe on poly sometimes, might be less messy and give better results.
You didn’t mention anything about a application window for second coat? I’ve experienced som e massive wrinkling of previous coat with oil based pu finish. Still trying to figure out what I did wrong. I expect I waited around 18 hours from first coat. Can says Second coat: Al least 5 hours. It also says light duty: 8 hours and heavy duty: 24 hours. Dust-dry 50min. It does not specify a second coat window and I may also have had problems with the base-oiled wood. All I know is I had to scrape the wrinkly gunk off and try again.
Hi Again Stumpy! An imitation Yachtsman? Actually I use a good grade of Oxtail brush for my “oil base” clears. Are you going to do a article on oiling wood with linseed/flax? When building guitars I handsand the neck to 600 then apply all the oil it wants to drink. Repeat after 3 days. After it’s dry, use very small bit of talc (not cornstarch) on the neck whenever it is humid. This the absolute slickest finish I have found. The player’s skin oils combine with the flax. You can do the same thing to a wood solidbody if the wood is pretty enough. TIP: pour a little bit of thinner into your brush, and knock off drips before first dip. The brush will clean far more easily. Same/same with water and latex/acrylic coatings.
Videos are well thought out and shot but the audio needs some work. Use some EQ to cut out the mid-frequencies that makes your voice sound like you’re speaking through a wrapping paper tube and a compressor/limiter to keep decibel level less variable in your dialogue. Listening in my car, certain words pop out and bust my ear drums.
My introduction to poly was stressful. I was making a 4×8′ turtle habitat out of plywood, and I had some pretty big pieces. Now I know I was fighting myself by doing the finish in the same garage that I was doing the sanding. I had a bear of a time getting the finish to go down without bubbles, and I was using the same product you are, and brushing it too. I wonder if some of the bubbles were dust-caused. I wound up doing MANY applications and sanding in between, and learned just what kind of scratch the finish will tolerate filling in. So it wasn’t all a loss. I tried brushing, thinning and wiping, staining pads, and even “brushing” with those weird rectangular pad things that puts down a lot of finish in one swipe. I eventually got it done well enough, but what a learning experience. I wish I had found your articles first, but I probably would have landed in the same predicament, knowing myself.
What about rollers for large areas? I do a bit of sealing on cemeticious materials, and hitting 20-30m2 of area follows the same theories outlined as a per this article, but with roller application you’re cutting out pretty good sized sections at a time. So, if you were polying timber at 8’x4′, say a table top, then hitting it with even a 4″ sleeve on a pole is going to afford you good stroke length.
I have a hardwood countertop, few years ago when I just got it, I sand it and applied butcher block conditioner (mineral oil and wax based). It has been 3 or 4 years since I last applied this conditioner, because I don’t like it. I want to switch to oil based poly, is it possible? I heard that after applied mineral oil and wax, nothing will stick, including oil based poly.
Hi – Wow you are comprehensive – I am newbie – q1.is denatured alcohol good to wipe down ANY wooden surface before applying ANY type of finish q2. how much importance to you rate ensuring ALL dust particles are off the surface – if so – is that why you use denatured alcohol or does it also do some other purpose Sorry I hope you did not get lost with questions – I all over the place here
Another good way to get a slick factory looking finish is do 2 or 3 coats just like he shows here and after prepping the last coat with sandpaper. Get a can of the Minwax spray polyurethane and spray everything. You do not have to sand between coats or wait for it to completely dry. Fact you’re not supposed to let it completely dry between coats. After you spray a coat wait 5 to 10 minutes and spray it again. You can just keep doing this until you run out of product. The spray stuff is kind of thin to use on its own but it is great for a top coating over the brush on stuff. There is another brand of this product that is not worth a crap so don’t use it and stick with minwax aerosol.
Minwax has a “Wipe-on Poly” they sell. I’m definitely going to try your thinning method with some regular poly because I think it would be more cost effective. But I really like that wipe-on that Minwax makes, and if I hit it with this car paint finish sander I got afterwards it becomes so so smooth. Anyways, great article as always. Thanks a lot for all the info, have a good day!
Can I use the wipe on poly method over a wooden drum shell where I’ve used Tru Oil? It’s curing right now. It has about 12 coats of Tru Oil with the last two thinned with Mineral spirits. I’m looking to add a thicker protective coating so the Poly seems like a great option. I’m sure I would need to lightly sand the True oil finish before adding the poly. Also, it is a rounded shell … could I wipe on the poly by dipping the towel/rag in the liquid instead of pouring some on the shell? I fear it would run down the shell if I poured it on. I worked with the shell suspended by a piece of wood through the middle so that I could easily rotate it. Thank you … your articles are gold.
Wrapping up a brush with oil base does not work like with water based products, but there is a way to preserve your brush with oil base. Wrap the brush with aluminum foil and put it in a container of water. This will keep it soft for a long time. When you’re ready to start putting your finish on again just go to a safe place and whip the brush hard and sling the water out of it. The oil based product will not mix with water at all so it’s not a problem.
I love idea of the sports bottle and someone suggested priming your brush with the solvent that is consistent with the product your applying. I almost never use poly straight out of the can. Add just a little solvent helps it to lay down nice. It’s typically not enough to add much more than an extra coat but it will probably keep you from having to sand between coats. Never go cheap on brushes. It’s just not worth the savings. Besides a good quality brush will last for years. Keep it clean, really clean.
don’t know if I missed it or so, but the wipe on has some other advantages, for all kinds of finishes. first, it can penetrate deeper. it also follows the wood structure better and doesn’t “pool up” in little dents and divets. this can be a benefit if you have some mix of sanded and structured wood surface. similar for surfaces with very varying grain structure where one soaks up about everything, its easier to work with using thinned out. you can experiment and also brush on thinned and wipe off etc.
so glad you used a real brush not those darn foam things. i tried a foam brush once and it was impossible to lay the poly on evenly. i guess people just don’t know how to clean a brush properly. a 1/4 cup of thinners at most is all you need for a perfectly clean brush that size. and really only takes a couple of minutes. i am still using the same high quality brush after over 20 years of use.
as a professional paint/stain/finish guy of over 8 years, the only criticisms i have is that you said “a few hours” for dry time, but unless you have specialized equipment to speed drying, that brand of poly is 4-5 hours minimum. even with thin coats, I’ve had to wait up to 8 hours if it’s not 70F or more. oil poly WILL dry at almost any temperature and humidity that we can safely be in without issue, but dry time for any finish is largely dependent on both temp and humidity. so while “a few hours” can be accurate, think of it more like most if not all of a standard work day few, not 3-4. Another criticism is the thinning of it. i don’t recall what it says on the can because I’ve never had to thin my poly, but the vast majority of finishes break down some on a chemical level if you thin them any more than 10%, and something about them won’t be as intended. with some finishes, it’s the hardness, others (like lacquers and latex paints) its the gloss, and with yet others, its their ability to bond and stay bonded. some also have uneven drying and/or lengthened dry time. if you’re going to thin your finish, always always always check with the manufacturer to see if they recommend it, what the tolerance is (as stated above its usually 10%), and what drawbacks you’ll see if you thin too much. also, side note, if you’re spraying your poly (WEAR YOUR RESPIRATOR), you can shake the can, and if you see bubbles forming in the finish, its air coming from the wood, but you can pop them with a thin misting of acetone/lacquer thinner from your cup gun without any problems as long as its air and not electric (other solvents may work but I haven’t tried them so I’m not gonna vouch for them).
Stumpy, I was buying some hardwood from a supplier in my area. While I was there, we started talking about wood turning and finishes. He grabbed a dusty bowl on the shelf and blew off the dust. He said, “If you like shiny finish, use high gloss wipe on poly. Wipe it on wet and keep it wet for a while adding more poly. Keep rubbing until it goes past the sticky stage and it will harden and smooth out”. So, I bought some and followed his advice. Those bowls came out very shiny and smooth. Also, when I took a woodworking class back in the 70’s, the instructor showed us some of his very high gloss projects. He said, if the wood with no finish doesn’t shine, your finish will not be as good as it could be. So, I sand my bowls to 2000 grit and the people that bought them(no matter what finish used) comment on how smooth they are. This is just my opinion though! Keep up the instructive articles! Respectfully, Kevin
So here is a question that may or may not be directly related. Last year we built a “boardwalk” in our side yard out of multi-colored stained pallet wood. It has held up nicely but we are wanting to put a protective coat on it this year. It is walked on periodically. Would you recommend oil based poly or should we use another type of product? Thanks James!!
I thin oil base poly for my first brushed on coat on bare wood. This allows the poly to penetrate the surface and provide a sealing base for the next coats. Then the next brushed coats are full poly thickness. I lightly rub 0000 steel wool after each coat is dry to level the surface. I then wipe the surface down with light mineral spirits on a rag before the next coat. I prefer to brush on poly rather than wipe on poly. Just my preference.
I’m getting ready to poly a mantle and since this is my first time I’ve been doing lots of reading and perusal. One point that I find the most confusing is that there seems to be no consensus on sandpaper grit. I’ve seen 220, 320, 400, 600. What gives? The manufacturer recommends 220. You recommend 400. I totally love your articles, I’ve learned lots, but what really is correct?
A tip for not having as much mess in the lip of the can and on your workbench during the pour/filter step. You can get these neat little plastic paint can lips that snap onto the outer lip of the can. A few places carry them, at least the big orange store does for sure. They cost about a buck and cleanup is pretty easy. Wait till the product is dry and peel it away. Not as good for stains but anything heavily bodied like paint or poly they work a treat and make cleanup much easier. Only downside is when new they are a bit stiff to get onto a quart can, so maybe don’t break it in on a full can.
Do you need a heavy duty mask for Water based Poly? I am going to be finishing a computer desk I just built, going to sand, then use an aniline water based dye and was thinking I should use a water based Polyurethane to make it durable? I have the aniline dye(powder that has to be mixed) already but have not bought the polyurethane.
PLEASE use gloves while messing with denatured alcohols. In your article you are handling it with your bare hands. The poisonous methanol denaturing the ethyl alcohol, can be absorbed directly through your skin. I had health issues until my use of that stuff in woodworking was identified as the source.
I would never use a brush for poly. Way too much product at one time. That’s where you get the extra “plastic” look that people complain about. Wipe on or use foam brush with minwax wipe on Satin. No gloss or semi-gloss. 3 thin coats and you wouldn’t know the difference between this and lacquer. No thinning, technique, or thinking required.
As a chemist who worked with solvents for my entire career, I recommend using a respirator specifically designed to absorb solvent vapors such as a 3M respirator with 3M 60921 Cartridge/Filter Organic Vapor cartridges if you are working for any time with solvent based materials. Once you smell solvent, ditch the cartridge and buy new. Also ditch if past the expiration date.
I’ve never ventured into thinning finishes mainly because I had never been exposed to it. Now that I see the benefits I’ll have to give it a try. Something I’ve found that works VERY well for a smooth streak-free finish is those painting pads you get at home depot. They are rectangular, have a foam backing so they hold a lot of product, and many fine soft bristles so the urethane lays very flat. Take a bit of finesse but the results are fantastic