Polyurethane can be applied over paint, including latex paint, acrylic paint, chalk paint, enamel paint, and spray paint. Both oil-based and water-based polyurethanes provide good surface protection for enamel paint. To apply polyurethane over paint, ensure the paint is completely dry before applying a thin coat of paint film.
Oil-based polyurethane is best suited for surfaces requiring extra durability, such as high-traffic areas, but it is not recommended for light-colored paints as it can become yellow over time. It is a great candidate for flooring, where extra protection is necessary.
Water-based polyurethane is similar to a second coat of paint and does not require waiting weeks before applying second coats. However, it is not recommended to apply polyurethane over painted furniture when no top coat is needed. Polyurethane will add a yellow or amber hue to the paint due to its oil content, so it should not be a problem if you are okay with that.
In general, it is fine to overcoat paints with a clear coat as the final layer to protect the paint. Shinier clear coats are more durable, so it is recommended to start with a shinier product. Putting varnish or an acrylic water-borne product over latex paint will only provide a harder surface over a soft one. The best sealer for wood painted in exterior-grade paint is another layer or two of exterior-grade paint, without clear coatings.
📹 Polycrylic or Polyurethane: How and When to Apply | This or That DIY | Wood Finishing Basics
If you’re wondering whether to use Minwax Polycrylic or Minwax Polyurethane as a topcoat for your wood finishing DIY project, …
Should I put polyurethane over paint?
Polyurethane can be used over paint, with the main differences being durability and color. Oil-based polyurethane is best for high-traffic areas and floors, but not for light-colored paints as it can become yellow over time. Water-based polyurethane is recommended for light-colored paints as it mostly dries clear and preserves the original paint color. High gloss paints should be slightly scuffed, while matte, flat, chalked, or craft paints can be applied following the can’s directions. Oil-based polyurethane is not recommended for light-colored paints due to its yellowing over time.
Can you put polyurethane over exterior paint?
Polyurethane can be applied over paint to protect painted surfaces, but it should be applied carefully and correctly. It is recommended to apply over fully dry and cured paint to avoid smudging. To prepare the project site, clean the surface free of dust, use fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the painted surface to promote adhesion, and wipe the surface with a damp cloth after sanding. This will help keep the surfaces looking beautiful and prevent smudging. Rachael Daley Otto, paint department head at Fleury Lumber, advises applying polyurethane over fully dry and cured paint to avoid smudging.
Will exterior paint waterproof wood?
Wood paint, wood stain, or wood oil are options for enhancing the aesthetics of outdoor wood and providing waterproof protection. These products come in both colored and clear versions, but may darken the timber once dry. For maintaining the natural color of the wood but protecting it from weathering, wood waterproofer or wood sealer are available. Emperor Exterior Wood Waterproofer is a long-term, invisible waterproof solution that uses nano-technology to chemically bond to natural outdoor wood without creating a film or seal, ensuring breathability and appearance.
It creates a “super hydrophobic” surface, allowing water to form beads on the surface, which fall off before absorbing in. This prevents rotting, discoloration, and green growth while keeping the wood looking natural. In independent testing conducted by a UKAS accredited laboratory, Emperor Exterior Wood Waterproofer was found to withstand harsh weather conditions for 25 years without any change in performance or appearance. It also comes with a 10-year manufacturer’s guarantee.
What happens if you paint without clear coat?
A clear coat on a vehicle can cause a dull or matte finish, and improper washing and waxing can cause it to fail and chip, exposing the base coat of paint. Wet sanding can remove oxidation or debris embedded in the clear coat, but it should be done by a professional body shop. However, paint jobs are not covered in most auto insurance contracts, leaving you to pay for repainting. Auto insurance contracts and mechanical breakdown insurance (MBI) policies may not cover issues related to clear coat paint, especially for vehicles less than a year old or have less than 15, 000 miles. Endurance offers a solution to protect your vehicle and wallet from unexpected and expensive auto repair bills, ensuring a smoother and more reliable driving experience.
What is the most durable finish for exterior wood?
Epoxy finishes are a popular choice for boat builders due to their ability to create a thick, water-impermeable barrier on wood surfaces. However, they lack UV protection, which can cause the epoxy to yellow and crack. To prevent this, it is necessary to overcoat the finish with a spar varnish or polyurethane with UV inhibitors. This makes epoxy the most expensive and labor-intensive choice. Some epoxy manufacturers offer spar varnishes that work with their products, eliminating concerns about compatibility.
Epoxy finishes are best on flat surfaces easily accessible from all sides, but avoid projects with complex moldings, crevices, or closely spaced slats. To bond with epoxy, sandpaper or a round-over bit in the router should be used, and smooth surfaces should be sanded.
What clear coat to use on painted wood?
The author presents a case study in which they employ Cabot’s satin water-based Cabothane Clear for painted furniture, asserting that the product functions optimally when used with a high-quality roller. Additionally, the authors cite a recent upcycling project that employed Gilly’s 200ml Lavender Cream, which imparted a subtle luminosity and refined imperfections. It is recommended that the wax be given sufficient time to settle before buffing with a lint-free cloth.
How many coats of polyurethane on paint?
For most interior projects, two coats of finish are recommended, with three coats for floors and two coats in one day. Use 220 grit sandpaper between coats to remove air bubbles, but avoid steel wool. Vacuum and wipe the surface clean before applying additional coats. Water-based polyurethane requires at least two hours of dry time between coats, with the ideal temperature range being 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity below 60.
For flooring, wait 24 hours after the last coat before light traffic, three to five days for medium traffic, and a full week before normal foot traffic is allowed. Drying time is affected by temperature and humidity.
Does exterior paint need to cure?
The curing process of exterior paints typically requires a period of 30 days, during which the maximum hardness and durability are achieved.
Do I need to seal exterior wood after painting?
Waterproofing is essential for painted wood to prevent damage from water and moisture, causing cracks, warping, and discoloration. Unprotected paint can fade and flake off, especially when painting outdoor signs. Proper waterproofing ensures that the message is not lost to the elements, preventing the loss of the sign’s message. There are two types of painted wood: yes and no. Proper waterproofing ensures the longevity and longevity of the painted wood, preventing its deterioration over time.
Does exterior paint need to be sealed?
Exterior paints are waterproof and resistant to extreme weather conditions, but some surfaces require sealants to prevent chipping and fading. When choosing a sealant, consider the material and surface application. Solvent-based polyurethane sealants are more effective at sealing wood due to their stronger film, making them a good choice when working with oil-based paints. It is essential to choose a product that is compatible with the paint used and serves the desired function.
Do you need to clear coat exterior paint?
Clear coating is a crucial step for outdoor projects, high-traffic areas, and furniture cabinets to protect against moisture, fading, scuffs, and fingerprints. It adds a glossy finish and enhances the color of spray paint. To apply clear coating, clean the surface, remove dirt, dust, grease, and other debris, and sand down rough spots for a smooth finish. Use a primer to create an even base for the paint job after preparing the surface.
📹 TIPS and techniques on how to apply polyurethane EVENLY like a pro
… but do it slowly you don’t want to fight with air bubbles this high quality brush is designed for polyurethane not latex paint that’s a …
Satin Polyurethane will remain a gloss to semi -gloss finish if not completely stirred in the can before and during the application. This means a good 5-10 mins. of stirring. Do not shake the can as it will cause air bubbles that take days to disapate. The more coats you apply the more gloss is achieved in the finish. This I have experienced as a professional painting contractor for over 30 years. All satin products need complete mixing to achieve your satin finish. I appreciate your articles and most all your advice is spot on. Your are a good role model for all the young DYI’ers. Keep up the good work!
Nice explanation of the differences. I like the durability of oil-based. After a few years, the two look very similar. If you finish with oil based poly, do not throw the rags in the trash. They can start a fire. I’ve seen it happen. I like to hang them up to dry. The next day they are dry and perfectly safe.
Please make sure to lay out any rags used for oil based products flat until they’re dry before throwing them in the trash. If it’s bunched up, the fumes can increase the temperature high enough to spontaneously combust (a lot of garage fires start that way). Once it’s dry enough to stop off-gassing, it should be fine to throw out.
I really appreciate the shared knowledge! Especially the bit on raw plywood where color change is not desired. Which “poly” did you use on your raw ceiling? Would you recommend either of these poly-products on raw plywood used as countertops where water will be present? I’m looking for something extremely durable to protect raw plywood without changing the color of the light colored wood (okoume).
I make wood signs and was hoping for a suggestion to help solve an issue I’m having. I typically use acrylic white paint for my lettering over my stains but recently found on one sign that it’s pulling yellow into the lettering (even before putting a top coat on). Would you seal the stain with a clear coat prior to putting the paint on? And what would you use as a top coat to be sure that the yellow doesn’t come through?
4:15 -Thank You for explaining the Dry times between the two different poly types AND time BETWEEN Coats and when to re-apply etc. This will help the current project we are doing since we have a can each of both oil based and water based and just bought a combo ( Varathane poly + water based ) Stain ! Assuming we can finish with either one but fumes, dry time in between, and clean up, are the game changers on what to use. Thanks again !
Hello I would like to duplicate a family board game similar to Sequence a game that my family plays,on wood.There are several of us that have vision problems and the game board is to small to see .I would like to know if I could glue the cards down on MDF or plywood with Elmer’s glue and use polyacrylic to make it last for years to come.The game is Sequence and I do not own the rights to the game or it’s likeness.
Hey Melissa, there is an element you’re missing which is addressed by Stumpy Nubs article ” How to apply a nice satin/ matte wood finish ” . In it he discusses how satin and matte polycrylic finishes have silica flattening agents that require specialized stirring so they don’t settle to the bottom of the can . Also wax is used to create matte finishes on period pieces along with shellac and varnish.
Thank you for the great tips. What would you recommend to “seal” a stained coffee table that will be covered in stickers after staining? I could go either way on the base for the stain. Oil or water based. I don’t care. Also, the stickers will all be high quality, plastic type stickers. Not the cheap paper ones.
The premise of this article is incorrect. You can get both water and oil based polyurethane, while polycrylic is only water based. Water based polyurethane will NOT yellow. Polycrylic is not meant for exterior use. Water based polyurethane is lower in VOC’s (not as low as polycrylic, but still much lower than oil based polyurethane). I would use water based polyurethane for every top coat. Cloud white painted trim, risers and cabinets in my house all have water based polyurethane (3+ layers) and none of them have yellowed at all over 2+ years. Not that I use oil based stains or paints, but if you do then you can still use water based polyurethane – just be sure to let the stain or paint cure fully first (3-4 days for stain, 7 days for paint). Generally, oil based is used if you need more working time – the water based products dry quickly (which is an added benefit for trim and smaller items, so you can apply your extra coats more quickly). Water based polyurethane will always be my go-to choice for top coats (furniture type items). Obviously not for a deck or fencing – then probably go with an oil based stain or sealer.
Hi! I am repurposing an old desk into a vanity. I have painted it teal, my daughters favorite color. I started with the polyurethane but immediately noticed it yellowing. GRRR – I didn’t know!!! Now I have to resend that part.. . So I should use the polycrylic? And will that give it a glossy finish??
Ma’am im so sorry I saw you at rosbury cafe before corona kicked off and I didn’t know your name so I said “hey you’re the lady with the wood on the Internet!” And i instantly got bombarded by 2 of the patrons who thought I was harassing you for being transgender but I’m just a fan from your articles. I was distracted by the argument that ensued and by the time I wiggled out of it you wrre gone.. just wanted to tell you im a fan.. thanks for your vids
Am a newbie here, I wanted to say thank you for the awesome informative contents, my question is about a raw pieces of lumber that are not sanded in any way and has rough surface, why would be best used as a protective layer from moist etc, without sanding it first! Am not confident I will get a reply but Thank you in advance anyway 🙂
This lady has no idea what she’s talking about.. most of this information is wrong… polyurethane can be water based the oil based ambers slightly which is that ‘yellow’ finish she’s talking about. Polcrylic goes on milky white and dries clear and typically comes matte …satin…semigloss and gloss finishes.
Thank you so much for the information, which I have been looking for answers to for weeks. My white kitchen laminate countertop gets stains easily, and I want to apply some kind of clear sealer to protect it from getting stains again. Would you recommend which sealer is safe, durable, and moisture resistant for countertops? Thanks again for your knowledge and time.
That front porch ceiling looks great. I probably would have applied Minwax Natural (No. 209) stain to the raw wood before sealing with poly but that is a large area so I understand why you didn’t. I’ve also never applied poly with a a foam roller (just foam brushes) so that’s a tip I’ll have to try sometime.
Thank you for this article. Great information. My take away is that for the dining tables I am refinishing for a Mexican Restaurant, which will have no stain or paint, I could use either water or oil poly. I’m curious to know how you believe the Polycrylic will tolerate the restaurant grade cleaning chemical that may be used to clean the tables between customers. Thank you again
Both are polyurethanes. Polycrylic is merely their brand name of water-based acrylic urethane. If you’re using solvent polyurethane, cleanup goes better with a paper towel ‘dry off’ of the brush, a quick rinse with a couple ounces of mineral spirits and another paper towel dry. Then use xylene to clean the brush a couple cycles. It’s pretty quick.
This is so helpful. I’m about to start one two different projects and I think that I will do both products on both projects but different areas of the projects (depending on the paint color I use, and how much use they will be subjected to). Very direct very concise. I will check out more of your articles!
A few years ago I bought a near 100 yr old house. I have been remodeling here and there. The dining room will now be my Master Bedroom. They have linoleum on the floor. I was dreading removing it, but it was simply laid out over a beautiful hardwood floor. The floor is bare. I have been researching how to apply poly, but torn as to which to use. Which would you recommend?
for some reason, i ran into this article and maybe you solved a problem i could not understand, i explain it better, i am coloring a damaged part of a guitar body and i don’t understand why the original black of the instrument had something like a bluish reflection, for this reason, when I paint some points of this instrument I can see the difference in blacks, the new one is totally black, the original one has something blue .. do you think it is the polyurethane that gave this effect ???? thank you so much
@2:30 ( “really old rag, throw it in the trash… don’t like cleaning oil-based…” ). I don’t know specifically about polyurethane, but generic “oil-based” rags are often warned about as a fire hazard and should never be disposed of in the trash until allowed to dry in a safe place. Spontaneously combusting rags cause over 1000 residential fires each year in the US. It seems like that comment could trivialize that matter?
Hi this is a great article, thank you for the info. I have a question though, I made a wood sign I’d like to seal. So it’s wood painted with white acrylic paint and then I applied a black vinyl decal. What would you use to seal it? I’m thinking maybe polycrylic. I don’t want it to yellow over time, however I don’t want the black to look milky either. Do think a spray paint or regular paint/canned with a brush would be better? Thank you for any advice you can help me with. 😊
My project is wood arms on a vinyl covered office chair. It has been factory stained, painted and/or sealed. Usage has worn off the ;low gloss on most of the arms. I will use Minwax liquid stain and want to topcoat it with a satin Minwax Polyurethane. I have a ‘rub on’ version of Minwax Polyurethane & application ‘pads’ Also have 4″ foam rollers too but don’t know about a roller with a ‘rub-on’ polyurethane. You did not mention the ‘rub on’ Polyurethane so I wondering what you thoughts are on using these products?
Young Lady, I appreciate your opinion, great article, now I have a question. Doing the floors in my 31 ford model A and I’m using red oak board with semi transparent golden oak stain and warm semi gloss polyurethane, both minwax oil based products and I would like to put photographs on the wood. Any suggestions or changes I should make for a great finished product? Thanks!
I wish somebody would explain why Minwax added “Warm” to all their clear polys and changed the label. I’d been buying that gold can since the beginning of time, and the girl at Lowes had no idea what I was talking about. Googling just turned up a pile of pages about semi vs. satin and promotional junk.
so I have this table, I painted with water based paint, and then stained with varathane wood stain, just for the nice look, and I don’t know if I should protect it with polyurethane because the stain is oil based (but doesn’t fully cover the table top), or polyacrilic, because I used water based paint. Also, I found a fast drying water based polyurethane (Behr Premium)! What is that?? thank you!
Hi Melissa … I am building a privacy panel with redwood. I am staining the pickets with oil based stain. The colors are beautiful. However, I’m looking for a finish that will protect it from partial sun and rain and dry crystal clear and expand and contract. I attempted to use a store product but it left a yellow tint taking away from the beauty. What do you recommend for a protective coatung that won’t change the color? Thanks, Mike in California
I just got a Polyurethane product that is water-based (soap and water clean up). It’s Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane 3X, in clear matte finish (the one I chose), for interior projects on stained or bare wood. I haven’t tried it yet, but it says it’s an “advanced self-leveling formula”, and it’s one coat is as thick as 3 coats of traditional poly, allowing projects to be completed in only 1 coat. It also has quick drying times: 2 hours to the touch, 48 hrs for moderate use of project, and 7 days for total cure time.
Ladies and gentlemen…I know this is old…but this woman is 100% correct in everything she says. I build guitars from parts, and I am amazed how polycrylic behaves exactly how she says. I did a test with polyurethane on a white surface, and turns it totally amber. The worst. Polycrylic goes on totally clear, no smell, quick drying.
Whew. Talk about taking me to school! I painted a huge antique desk in chalk paint, two toned, black top with white body and black hardware. I knew wax wasn’t going to protect the top from all the activities. So I came here to see if I was correct in going with the poly on the top. I’m going to go with the wax on the white. Can’t even think about yellowing and possibly having to redo it. That would be my special nightmare. I’ve liked, commented and sub’d. I love yr no nonsense approach to yr content. Thx for yr time and knowledge. U rock!
You can also spray on polycrylic with a cheap HVLP sprayer (e.g., Wagner). Thin it a bit first (2.5 tablespoons of distilled water to 12 ounces of polycrylic—stir slowly; don’t shake). Read the sprayer instructions for HOW to spray. Watch a article or two. Do many quick, light coats (5-6) and overlap each pass by about 20 percent. Lightly sand in between coats after it dries (1-2 hours), and I mean LIGHT (very little pressure). I use 400 grit. Don’t sand the final coat. You’ll get a pro finish. No brush marks. Smooth as glass. Be sure to clean out your sprayer after you’re done with mineral spirits and then lots of warm water. Move quick and you won’t need to clean the sprayer between coats. Just put a moist rag over the tip in between coats.
Thank you for this info! It was exactly what I needed to know and you explained it all so well 👍 The only thing I would say is do not throw any rags with oil based products on them in the trash! They absolutely CAN and do combust without any spark or ignition agent. 😳 Apparently as the “drying” type oils (as opposed to kitchen oils that stay wet) start evaporating they heat up. If the rag is balled up it gets too hot and can combust on its own. 🔥 They say dry flat or put in sealed container of water. Someone here said to hang them to dry which is a great idea. 👍 Thanks again and I subscribed.👏
After many years of successfully using polycrylic on stained desks and bookcases, I used it on a maple wood (unstained) table top, and it failed miserably. The table’s finish is now very sticky, and it has rubbed off in several places. I am trying to figure out how to get it off, and am not sure I want to risk using polycrylic on it again. Is it possible they have bad batches sometimes? Is there a shelf life to worry about?
From the UK: Thank you so much @Welcome To The Woods. After perusal several other articles & trying to learn the best way to protect our revamped painted wooden kitchen table, your article gave me all the answers I needed in one go. Very much appreciated. Ordered the Minwax Polycrylic from Amazon, as it’s not generally available here in stores. Subbed & rang the bell…you smashed this one for me 💥
I have used these same products many times over the years and mostly with a brush and some success and better success with smooth foam rollers on larger pieces or projects. But I really don’t like either the oil based or the water based lol. I haven’t tried but am thinking of trying spray lacquer but have no experience with it.
Thank you for this article!!! I have some raggedy-looking window sills under windows left open during the rain too many times. I need to replace the sills but I pretty much have to paint them white to match the rest of the room. I was wondering if I could apply a clear sealer on the sills to drastically improve the water-proof-ness, for the future times the window is left open in the rain. And you answered my question with really practical reasons! Thank you! I’m going to try the poly gloss finish, 5 or 6 layers. Thank you so much!
I am new to paining with chalk paint. I painted my dresser and used wax. I did two coats of wax but got water marks very easily. I sanded it and painted again. I bought both polyurethane and polycrylic, but I’m not sure which will be better. I love the color and don’t want to ruin it. I need it to have some level of water resistance since I decorate with plants. Thank you so much for your informative articles.
Please make sure you throw away polyurethane rags or any rags with oils based stains properly. They cannot simple be thrown away in a trash can. Either let they completely dry in sure in a single flat layer (not bunched up or in piles) and keep them away from Amy thing flammable until completely dry. Then they can be torn away. If you use a lot of them they should be kept submerged in water in a clean metal can and weigh the rags down with a rock so they stay under the water; when your can gets full they should be taken to a proper waste facility. If not clear, piles of dirty oil rage can spontaneously combust.
Thank you so much for sharing. I have ordered new kitchen cabinet with pure white spray paint on maple wood doors but they come in satin sheen. They looks great but just that the white paint is super easy to be scratched off. It is oil based spray paint and I’m hesitate to use the polycrylic seal. Do you have any suggestion on what can I do to protect this newly white spray paint wood cabinet doors which will be heavily used? I appreciate 🙏
Thank you so much for this information for it is very helpful. I have a few questions if I may ask. Here goes…. since the polycrylic is water based and it takes 5-6 coats for it to be durable can I clean the item with soap and water or any other light cleaning solution when needed and the poly won’t come off? I ask because I purchased a dinette pub set that I used normal soap and water but then I tried a different cleaning solution and their paint, which looks like it has a satin finish, came off . SMH. It was well pass the return date so I couldn’t return it. I am trying to find something to put on it so I won’t have this problem again can you please tell me what do you recommend? Also I am about to give my bedroom set a makeover and I am using Rustoleum Metallic Accent paint but I don’t want a too glossy finish being that the paint is metallic so I want more of a matte finish with a low sheen, so should I get clear satin or semi-glossy in the polycrylic and how many coats should I apply? Please if you can help me with this I would greatly appreciate it.
Hi me and my husband just painted our kitchen cabinets antique white with oil based paint. Can I put polyurethane on it to make it more durable or will it yellow? If I can’t what would you recommend? It’s Valdosta furniture enamel and it says it doesn’t need a top coat but I’ve noticed some scratches when we re did our daughters bathroom. Thank you!
I have a question. We tried to makeover our dining table and we painted(not stain) the table black. We liked how the satin finish paint looked on the table however we didnt know we had to seal the paint until our 2 year old scratched off the paint 2 days after we spent hours painting our table🤦♀️ What paint should we use to paint our flat wood table(no grain) and what finish should we use? Thank you for this info by the way🙏
Hii! Thank you for this info! I want to paint my coffee table with a design, and will be using water based paint. In this case it is best to use a polycrylic topcoat? And I repurposed two old rocking chairs and used oil based paint but now I see it is all scratched :(. So what can I do here? Repaint it and then use a poly coat? Help?!
Clear satin is just that, satin, so it is not clear and they never claimed it would be, it is satin. High gloss would be clear. But they are only telling you it is a clear satin, which means it is kinda dull, it will be kinda hazed, whitish, that is how it gets its satin. You can buy paint in satin too, but they don’t call it clear satin because it is colored paint. But since the can you showed us said “clear satin” it only means it is not colored paint. But it won’t be totally clear, it CAN’T be or else it can’t be satin. High gloss could be totally clear, and only a high grade will not yellow enough to really notice. In other words it would need to say something like “clear high gloss”, and NOW it won’t be hazy or yellow, or whitish. But the automotive industry uses the best clear high gloss in the industry.
Greetings!!🌹👋🏽 I am a new subscriber after perusal this article .. very important information that you already knew and what you still did not know. I would like you to answer the following question, please: In the article, you mention that varnishing can be done with acrylic option too, but giving more finishing coats than previously, and it has been the same result, only in less time. my question is: Can is posible to put water-based varnish on an outside door that was finished with the gel stain? With the same longer protection time as if it was on oil polyurethane?
Great article! Answered so many of my questions. I’m making awards out of pine tree slices. I want to keep the pine look so I’m going to use polycrylic. Im also applying a transparent with white lettering sticker which will be step two. Then step 3, I’ll put several coats over the decal until it’s smooth. It’s raining. It’s winter. I don’t have time for polyurethane. Any input would be great. Thank you!
I painted the floor in the bathroom it’s not laminent but it’s like the tiles that they used to make school floors out of . I used wall paint which I know isn’t smart but if was an experiment. What should I use to save it and make it last as long as possible I also used wall paints and acrylic paints to paint the bathroom doors What would you suggest I seal that with . I cannot recreate the paint
thank you for taking the time in sharing your experience you have very useful info, I have used polycrylic because it says its clear satin but I noticed what you say, it has a little shine, so ¿what should I use if I want a flat matte finish? BTW no matter you’re using water based in ventilated area, you still going to breathe toxic vapors you have to use respirator, why risk your health?, Greetings from Mexico!!
My husband inherited his parents home and we have a lot of work to get the home back in shape. The house was built in the 20’s or 30’s and has wood floors throughout. Plus, a built-in shelf wall. Old doors and door frames. I’m not sure what kind of wood was used but the shelf feels like a soft wood. I stripper off layers of paint and i want to just seal it. What would you recommend?
Hi! I need help, I am making a mermaid tail, one that has 5,000 thin plastic scales sewn on it, I am taking this tail in the water for swimming, these scales are not shiny to my liking and I thought polyurethane would be a good idea to add a gloss finish to the plastic, this isn’t wood so it’s hard to find what to use, is This waterproof? Like it won’t just wash off if I take it in the pool? Would I use the polycrlyic? I have also seen a water based polyurethane called varathane water based polyurethane ultra, please tell me what I should be using, not for wood or anything
Could you please recommend which finish would be more durable for a weight lifting platform? There isn’t that much info that i’m able to find on this topic. I’m going to be using oak plywood for the center piece and use steel wool/vinegar mixture to stain it black and then paint a design on there. My problem now is deciding how to finish, as i know nothing about woodworking. I need the finish to offer good footing and not slippery, while not being too rough either, in case i want to bust a move every once in a while… Could you comment on water based polyurethane? I saw this Minwax Polyurethane for Floors Semi-Gloss Water-Based Polyurethane and thought this would prob be the best fit for my needs, without yelllowing my design logo(s). Would really appreciate your insight and input on this topic. Thank you in advance!
Between 6 and 7mins, I was confused w/ her term “POLY” is used interchangeably. She talks about when to use “poly”…does she means both polyacrylic AND polyurethane…OR she meant just…polyacrylic? I know that with satin polyurethane leaves a yellow tinge because the satin (is sand). ay vay! I think (not sure) with any satin….it will leave a yellow tinge (with time) with anything light colors. Anyone care to clarify?
For exterior surfaces, you’re actually better off with spar urethane than poly. For things like tabletops and counters, bar top finish is nearly indestructible and doesn’t stain (plus, it’s food safe). For hardwood cutting boards, salad bowls, etc, mineral oil and bees wax are all you need (or conversely, there’s a product called salad bowl finish that works pretty well). I’ve been woodworking for many years and I almost never use polyurethane any more. There are so many products out there that surpass it for specific uses.
Oh no! I just white chalk painted my dining table, then applied water based polyurethane (I hadn’t seen your article). I had well prepped the table. I can already see the yellowing from the polyurethane. Is there a way to back track? Should I sand off the polyurethane then polycrylic? Thanks for your advice.
Great tutorial. Thank you. I applied 3 thin coats on a small stained piece (rookie here) and I could see how uneven it was. I sanded it down lightly and reapplied a thicker coat with a foam brush and it came out just right. I can’t get paint laid down right, either. Thin coat, thick coat, all the coats… Quality brushes and paint. I suppose practice is key. Going to watch a few more of your articles. Thanks again
Short and sweet like many others have said! I am reminded that there are many ways to get to the same goal. I used different advice for my last project, and it also worked. Same surface prep. Also used the right brush. Slightly thinned the poly (10% mineral spirits) in a separate container. Loaded up the brush, and “draw” the brush slowly, in one direction, non-stop, very wet coat. Do not “paint” back and forth. Then the usual – let it cure, smooth it (sand or steel wool), clean, and apply the next coat. I am impressed that your instructions also obviously work. Reminds me to keep an open mind. Thanks!
Hi! Thank you for very useful article and great tips – immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy – some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some – dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen articles at youtu.be/zHMdkZcqSUY?list=PLEPbxZsbY8u32S7XSGiqSfCp5rTZHInVC or our 60 Second Storage Tip at youtu.be/1nOINqPCt7Q. Works every time.
You answered some of my questions. Thinner coats are better than a thicker coat that levels out. One thing you didn’t mention is if you’re using water based finish, using steel wool can cause bits of rust. I’m not using steel wool. I’m using 240 grit on a random orbit sander between coats. On the final coats I’m going for the 600 and then 3000 for a mirror like finish on this fireplace mantel. I have to agree, the brush makes a difference. Another guy on a article said to soak your brush in mineral spirits first and that will get rid of most of the bubbles. Also, to mix your poly 3 to 1 with mineral spirits. Takes more coats but less bubbles. Dollartree has a little pint pitcher that has the gradation marks on it. Perfect to mix up a small batch of finish without needing additional measuring.
I never use a bristle brush of any kind applying polyurethane clear. I only use foam brushes. They do not leave lines that have to be sanded out, and the foam acts as a very convenient dispenser when you blot the surface at regular intervals, and then use the brush to even distribute the product over perhaps a dozen passes in each direction with the grain. 3-4 coats with 220 or finer automotive grade sanding between coats and it will look like glass. Bristle brushes are inferior, and it’s just a fact. It’s a marketing tactic.
– What about the gas or vacuum that is supposed to be between the 2 panes of glass? What thickness is the glass in a double-paned window? Do all double-paned windows have the same gap between the 2 panes of glass? What is the distance between the panes of glass supposed to be? I need specific details on all of the required components! Please and thank you. Thank you. ~ Jeremy ~