A 40-plus year painting veteran shares his best practices for finishing trim, including testing stain colors, sanding wood for even finishes, cleaning the room first, staining one piece at a time, dry-brushing crevices, disposing of the rags, and applying sanding sealer.
The debate between oil-based and latex paint for trim continues, with each offering distinct advantages. Oil-based paints offer excellent coverage and adhesion, while latex paints produce a smooth finish. To start, you will need caulk, a sanding block, painters tape, a sponge, Benjamin Moore Fresh Start® primer, and Benjamin Moore ADVANCE interior paint.
Choosing trim colors that flawlessly coordinate with your walls is essential for achieving an expert finish. The most common and best sheen for interior trim is a satin or semi-gloss finish, which has a medium sheen, is durable, and easy to clean. Semi-gloss paint finishes have a higher sheen and stand out in a room, making them easy to clean and resistant to dirt, stains, mold, and mildew.
To start, sand the trim until it is smooth, especially if it is MDF. Oil bases on trim are great because they reduce brush marks when used, and the oil in the paint “levels” or fills in gaps. Start with any good grade paint and treat it with Flotrol acrylic additive at a rate of about 1/2 pint per gallon and mix well.
By painting your trim with different colors, whether it be huge contrast or more muted, you add depth to your space. A professional painter describes the tools, materials, and techniques used to paint interior trim so that it looks great and lasts a long time. Benjamin Moore Aura Interior Latex paint is expensive but well worth the cost, and adding Floetrol will help get a smooth finish. Using a $25 paint brush designed for the type of paint being used will also help achieve a smooth finish.
📹 The Secret to Getting a Perfect Paint Finish with no Brush Marks
*Register ASAP! Spots limited Leah demonstrates how to use oil paint in combination with a a paint conditioner to get a smooth, …
How do you get the best finish on trim?
Traditionally, oil-based paint was used to achieve a finish on trim due to its ability to reduce brush marks and fill in gaps. However, some people dislike oil-based paint due to its messiness and difficulty in cleaning. Additionally, oil-based paint causes “drag” when brushing, which can be frustrating as it seems like someone is trying to stop the brush from moving easily. Despite these issues, the future holds potential for advancements in technology, as it is essential to consider the potential benefits of using oil-based paint in the painting process.
What is the best finish for trim?
Designer-approved guidelines offer two paint finishes for everyday spaces: eggshell finish, suitable for bedrooms, bathrooms, living rooms, and kitchens, and semi-gloss finish, ideal for trims, cabinets, and doors in highly trafficked areas like mudrooms. Eggshell finish is more forgiving, durable, and easy to clean, while semi-gloss finish offers maximum durability, stain and scuff resistance, and is easier to clean. To choose the right paint color, refer to The 1 Secret to Choosing a Paint Color.
How to get a smooth finish on doors and trim?
Spraying or rolling paint on doors can provide a smooth finish, while a paint-rolling technique can achieve similar results. Use a high-quality foam roller and quality paint, and cut in edges before drying. For paneled doors, apply paint evenly using a small foam roller, then cut in panels with an angled brush while the paint is still wet. Choose a satin, eggshell, or semi-gloss sheen for durability and a subtle sheen, avoiding higher gloss paints that may show imperfections.
How to avoid brush marks when painting trim?
To obviate brush strokes when painting trim, one should employ the feathering technique, which entails moving the brush with swift and light strokes in a single direction.
What finish is good for trim?
The paint sheen used for interior trim affects the level of light reflected off the finish. The most common and best sheen is a satin or semi-gloss finish. Satin paints have a medium sheen and are durable and easy to clean, while semi-gloss paints have a higher sheen and stand out in a room. If you prefer a lower sheen or want to paint walls and trim the same color and sheen, use a satin paint finish. This is especially recommended for areas with imperfections in drywall. A full skim coat or “Level 5” finish can be done, but it can be expensive and not suitable for most applications.
How to paint trim and not leave brush marks?
The process entails sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, the application of a second top coat, and the sanding with 220-grit sandpaper after each coat. This method ensures the paint is applied in a clean and free-flowing manner.
How do I give myself the perfect trim?
Trim each piece of hair according to its existing shape, and adjust the amount of hair trimmed. Stand in front of a mirror for better results. Place a portion next to the trimmed portion, containing 25-30% of the hair. Comb straight, observing the difference between trimmed and untrimmed hair. Use the trimmed hair as a guide to ensure a clean cut. Using a mirror image can be helpful, but getting used to it can be challenging.
How do I make my trim look professional?
To achieve a smooth trim finish, use a high-quality sash brush or foam roller, apply paint in long, even strokes, avoid overloading, and sand between coats. For durability, consider using water-based enamel paint. For smooth wall painting, follow these strategies:
- Cutting in: Paint along edges where walls meet ceilings, windows, or door frames with a steady hand and the right technique. Load your brush halfway into the paint, tap off excess, and work your way in, using light pressure for precise control.
Will a second coat of paint cover brush marks?
In order to address the issue of rough texture and visible brush strokes in a second coat of paint, it is necessary to employ a slightly different technique than that used in the first instance. It is advisable to consider the various types of brushes available for use when painting walls, in order to achieve the optimal finish.
What is the best finish for interior walls?
Ultra Flat paint is ideal for interior walls due to its exceptional durability, washability, and stain resistance. It is suitable for high-traffic areas and has a smooth application process. Flat paint, with its velvety, matte look, is suitable for hiding wall imperfections but is less durable and doesn’t stand up well to scrubbing. Although many paint formulas clean up easily with soap and water, people still prefer other sheens for easier care. Semi-gloss and gloss paint are best for trim and woodwork.
How to eliminate brush strokes when painting?
To avoid brush strokes in DIY projects, select the correct brush, use the correct amount of paint, avoid overworking the paint, and maintain a dry climate. Wet sanding can also help achieve a smooth finish. Professional flippers can also avoid brushstrokes by following these tips. Brush strokes are caused by various factors, such as improper handling of the brush, overworking the paint, and dry climate conditions. By following these tips, you can achieve a smooth and silky finish on your furniture and cabinets.
📹 STOP Lap Marks.Tips PRO’s Use To Paint Perfect Walls.
How to stop getting lap marks on your interior walls when you are painting. Professional painting tips to eliminate lap marks when …
After perusal the article advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans youtube.com/post/UgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the article. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!
Leah You are correct bout flood product. I used to work in a paint store 30 yrs ago as mechanic repairing spray paint equip, had to learn bout paint ( Benjamin Moore) & ( Morewear ) learned alot. Painters gave lots of tips . Oil is the best Brush choice is very important . Great article. Great explanation
On Nantucket, with harsh weather of salty air and wind with extremely cold temperatures in the winter, I have used oil base paint with Penetrol for consistent durability when I used to paint my Mom’s trim. For staining I like the Australian Timber Oil that Cabot sells for an exterior deck. However they have different stain products depending on your wood situation. And thank you for a very thorough presentation.
when I first saw the thumbnail for this article I thought “here we go again” but this was great advice, I spent many years painting in the Royal palaces in London and we only ever used oil based paint, I have never heard of paint conditioner, we use white spirit that does the same job (I presume) we also use a spirit/oil based undercoat, instead of a tack cloth we use a lint free rag with white spirit and like you a 240 or 220 grit paper which is sometimes called “inbetween coats” I started out many years ago with pure bristle brushes but synthetic brushes have come a long way, I no longer waste money on Purdey brushes as they have been left behind and no longer represent goood value, I also use a dewalt blower to remove the bulk of the dust before I wipe down as it saves so much time especially with sash windows, we also use an oil based primer before the undercoat and generally do two top or finish coats, the only real difference is that I would not put so much paint on in one go as oil tends to run or vertical surfaces if you are not careful so prefer two top coats. our big box stores here in the UK no longer sell oli based paints but they are still available from proper paint suppliers, also in the UK we do not call water-based paints “latex” though they may be latex paints, I do not like them as they ruin my brushes, but great article with real advice for a change.
Back in the olden days we used oil-based primers mostly and when we used them we added almost a one-to-one ratio of penetrol to primer to allow the primer to soak deep into the grain of the wood giving a very long-lasting paint job one of the reasons why paint feels off a house is because it’s not sitting into the wood it’s sitting on the wood
Thank you. You’ve just made me look smart in under 5 minutes. Flipping houses, which after being a operations director in the food service industry went south because of Covid should tell you I’m terrible at it. However, I am a perfectionist at heart, so I don’t do anything half assed. This is huge and is an inexpensive way to take a 💩 an flip it into something beautiful
I love the finish you get with oil-based paints. And honestly, the VOC (smell) is something that let’s me know that the project finish will last for a long time. Originally growing up and living in California, it was disappointing to see oil-based paint get some stigmatized. But now living elsewhere in the country over the last 25 years, I’ve been free to use oil-based paints for specific jobs and not worry about its quality or availability. Great article!
This was by far the best tutorial I have seen on YouTube in recent memory! I have several doors I need to repaint and I was nervous because I never used oil based paint before. After perusal this article am now confident to tackle this project. Thank you so much!! BTW- I am now your newest subscriber to your website 😉
With nearly 40yrs of being a journeyman painter craftsman, now retired, the best product that you can use for wood trim without using Flood Penetrol, is Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo oil based paint. It does not pull and lays down easy and leaves no brush marks at all. The only time I used Flood’s Penetrol, along with a little mineral spirits, was when I sprayed the wood instead of brushing. Enjoy your vids.
Hi Leah, I’m so happy I found your website. I’m not working anymore but I like perusal you. I can just tell that you are a beautiful soul! I once had to paint an entire house with oil paint. I was alone so it took me a week. I had to wear a mask with air filters on each.side. Bynthe.time I was done my nose.was bruised so bad and I had 2 black eyes. Oh… The memories! I was so proud of how awesome it looked but I’ll never forget the smell. 😂
Having painted for a number of years, remember, that preparation is the most important aspect of any paint job. You are building on a good base if a properly prepared surface is available. Use quality paint too ( cheap paint will not last as long as a quality paint will) – spend the extra buck$ to purchase the best paint with. Work your paint into your wood – it requires time but the finish job will last a long time. Be patient and watch the weather for rain ( goes bad when you use Latex-based paints ). Never apply your paint when the ambient temperature is cold ( 50 degrees F” or more is the best ). Hot surfaces from the sun will effect the paint too.
Thx Leah, my mom is a professional artist. I grew up with turpentine as a condiment. Lol, my late father in law was a professional decorator in London. His painting was art . His house interior painting was repainted frequently. IT LOOK LIKE CLASS OR SPRAYED ON. Quality brushes along with the sanding and chemistry are IMPERATIVE! Excellent article ( again) ❤️
years ago I helped someone paint a commercial building that had a lot of flat metal doors, We used oil paint, and added Penetrol to it. We rolled the doors to get the paint on fast, then brushed those doors out to get rid of the nap marks roller leave behind. Brushing helped smooth out the paint, but that Penetrol allowed the oil paint to flow like glass, and it did.You could almost see up your nose. It was great. Oil is great for smooth glass like surfaces like woodwork. Just remember to stroke out your last brush marks with long strokes to even it out.
Thank you sooo much! I am buying an old farmhouse that hast panel doors. I wanted to paint them with a beautiful glossy finish. I have use latex enamel finish ( which is not very easy to use. Requires some effort). But still knew I would not quite get the finish I wanted. Never knew OIL paint is the exact finish I was looking for. So thank you. Am also going to paint the old kitchen cabinets. I think oil paint is the ticket for them too. To get a durable and scrubable finish that will last. Again- THANK- YOU!
thank you so much! I have to paint a 3/4 thick plywood, and want it to be able to take a light shower outside, but would keep indoors and would dry off it outside (its a wood telescope cart). I want to paint it shiny black, with a red compass design over it. I love oil paint. Should I prime with Zissner cover up oil base primer and what should I use for the glossy black and colors on top? I would let each layer dry, and then want to varnish. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you so much, love your website.
Leah I just discovered you. I live in a fancy new apt ppl move out out and leave awesome TVs. So I learned wiring stuff. Fyi I am a trained in art but never got to do oils. They work in reverse that watercolor does and they frustrate me. Landlord maintenance guys do a crap job painting trim boards. Also they ditched the tanning bed, made it into a package room. Grrr.
I was hoping it would be a article about how to remove brush marks in latex paints. I just painted a floating desk in clear gloss and honestly, I’m going to have to sand it and try again because you can clearly see brush marks and it’s not very glossy even if you look at it at an angle. I’ve used marine varnishes on timber before and it looked like wood under glass. this just looks like textured wood.
The oil also lasts a hell of lot longer, and therefore less repaints. Particularly in trim but painting walls and walls of that inside is not healthy without significant ventilation and breaks. Sticks to doors, cabinets, trim. Paint outside if you cant without dust around. And just put floetrol in latex to get the oil like finish if you’re sensitive or in canada where oil is pretty much banned. (If you’re in canada, you probably are sensitive).
Thank you for this! I have an Ikea gate-leg table that definitely needs repainting. I have the solid birch version of the table and had painted the surface and drawer fronts with acrylic paint and then coated it in several layers of poly because I’m sensitive to strong smells, but I see that going with oil is definitely worth it for the end results. Because, even though I had stripped the the factory poly off and prepped the entire table, over time chunks chipped out of the paint. I had hand painted a large mandala on the top of the table which took over a month of work. I’ve been hesitant to repaint because how upsetting it was that all my hard work had been ruined over time. I will definitely be using oil paint on the legs and the drawers. The top of the table is going to get an epoxy resin pour to look like the ocean.
Does anyone know how to get rid of those “pimple like” bumps? Now what I do is use 400+ sandpaper over those spots (for example you can see them around 7:33 mark) and then repaint them. However sometimes it takes me 5-10 runs to get rid of all. It does take like 5 minutes after 3rd hand but it’s annoying having to wait for so many days to finish. When I use 2000 grit paper it has glass surface. However, it loses it’s shine. So is there maybe some polish that can return shine? I saw them polish certain tables but most of them were epoxy based and I have no idea whether it would work here. I would try it already but no idea what polish to get. People who sell it in my parts don’t use it like that and they are just saying put 2 coats and that’s it.
I’m a painter and all I use is oil based paint for trim. However, I have to disagree with the type of brush she used. I use a white China Bristle brush when painting oil paint. I’ve had numerous people over the years ask if I sprayed my trim work because they couldn’t see any brush marks. When I tell them it’s brushed, they are amazed. The only thing I used Black China Bristle brushes for is staining, sealing and polyurethane.
Everyone who thinks the entire country is racist, sexist, and age(ist) should read all the comments about Leah!!! Respectful, complimentary, cheering, grateful, and the list goes on!! She’s brilliant and a gifted teacher and knows her trade — and that’s what people are seeing — and telling her!!! This just elevated my view of the world we live in … while improving my next paint job!!
The theory is sound, but in reality it takes years of practice to master oils on vertical, rather than horizontal surfaces. Besides, they are toxic and extremely messy. There are acrylic enamels out there these days that will do a similar job with only a slight reduction in gloss level. Also, AEs will not crack or yellow over time
I fell in love with oil paint last year. I acquired a quart for free at our industrial waste dump. They give so many items per month to use up what others don’t want..leftovers from projects. It’s “self leveling” so the brush marks disappear. I love the finish and its so easy to clean! Its perfect for kitchen cabinets, door and window trim as well as baseboards. If you are the one who cleans your home, you will appreciate the work saving properties. I will use latex/waterbase on ceilings but only semigloss or satin goes on the walls. Never flat. Oil paint repells dirt and grime but flat absorbs it ehisc makes it miserable for cleaning. I’ve never tried oil flat so I can’t speak to that.
I love using oil for woodwork. I’m using this article to explain this to homeowners. Oil paint lasts so much longer that it’s practical to buy it even though it’s more expensive. Oil paint protects woodwork from more than just moisture, etc, Oil paint is like putting armor on your woodwork. It will stand up in a battle with kids pets and time.
Very informative article and thanks for posting. I never knew about using oil paint conditioner to take out the drag. I had always added a little paint thinner and had good results. What turned me off to using oil based paints is the cleanup part. I used oil on our kitchen cabinets and although it was a major undertaking, it was worth it. Super durable, easy to keep clean. When I use latex paint for painting trim, I always add a little bit of water to thin it out so it gets rid of the drag. Is there something else that you use to thin out latex?
I love your articles. I do maintenance for a nursing home and literally was handed the keys day one and said figure it out but every single time I’ve needed help you are always the one I can go to for help. Really wish I had someone like you to work with me to teach me the ropes vs me figuring out through trial and lots lots lots of error lol
For 35 years I’ve been a painting contractor on the Jersey shore and I’ve seen it all. Her article is spot on. What is missing are some tips to make your acrylic (We don’t call it latex anymore) trim enamels level out better is by adding a dry time extender such as Xim. The longer it stays wet the better it levels. Your other option is to use an oil modified acrylic enamel which when done looks just like it was done in oil. The Sherwin Wms, Cashmere is as good as it gets, expensive as hell but worth it. Soap and water clean up. Whatever paint you use always use the best grade brushes such as Purdy and Woosters as they will out last all the rest. You get what you pay for.
Since owning my own home, I’ve truly missed the high gloss trim of my childhood. I never knew oil paint was proper way to achieve that amazing finish. Glad I’m only one room into redoing the flooring and trim of my house…will switch up the trim paint to oil! Thank you for the detailed process! Much appreciated!
Love the way you explain things Leah, wish I was that engaging with my subscribers. 🙂 We used penetrol mostly to get enamels to flow better in very cold climates, other than that, we didn’t need it for a mirror finish. I might add, enamels (oil paints) don’t absorb into the wood at all. That’s a big no no and the very reason one must use an undercoat first, to allow the enamel to ‘flow’, it must be allowed to sit on the surface without absorbing into anything. The ability for enamels to flow is what allows the applicator to achieve a mirror (if one is using a gloss finish) like finish and for diys, is the reason why so many can’t use it and complain about runs and sags. In effect, enamels continue to move (flow) after one is finished but it’s why it produces such a nice finish. Keep up the great articles 🙂
HI LEAH. I’M IN DESPERATE NEED OF HELP! 😭 I’m on my 3rd go round. I have flipped all the furniture in my lil sewing room. Finally a gift to myself right😃 However, I’ve painted n sanded repeatedly with a high gloss indoor outdoor. I realize after all the cost I was absolutely given bad advice 🥴 so I’m told use this triple thick polyethylene on top for that high gloss finish. This is a be a table with use. Well, I sanded before a coat n or was umm not what I wanted but this was the second can add id sanded back to paint after first can 2 applications ended up a mess. Ok, we learn the hard way sometimes. As i couldn’t resist touching in one spot to fix a lil issue yes yes all bad. So like I said I went back to the drawing board for second coat paid out. Next day to realize they’re are lil bumps poking up everywhere. I nearly cried n burned the hole table 😭 😢 but I only have a lil polyethylene left. I know God n well I’ll need to spend money on yet another can😳😱 i was on a budget but that’s destroyed at this point. So I’m standing here looking at this gorgeous white table that’s been sanded with a 1000 for a silky smooth finish BUT! DO I NEED TO ROUGH IT UP WITH 220 BEFORE APPLICATION OF TO COAT OR DO I .. NOPE YOU JUST SAID 220 OK I’LL GO GET MORE OF THAT BUT. WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR THE GLASSY TO COAT. ( honestly this project is in my house I have no where else to do it but what ever it takes right! I heard someone say use the polyethylene /acrylic i believe it was.
Hi Jane, I saw this article years ago, but I was using latex then, and bought the Flood for Latex which also works well with Acrylic Paint. Zinsser Latex Extender did not work well with Acrylic Paint. The Zinsser kept separating and I had to keep mixing every 5 minutes. I can’t buy Penetrol Flood for oil paints anywhere. I was able to buy a little 2.5 oz bottle of Winsor Newton Artists’ painting medium for Oil Paint. I might have 200 feet of trim to paint. How far do you think my little bottle will get me.? I believe it is made of Linseed. What did we use in the good old days before Brand Names? Thanks so much!!! You are always an inspiration to me. Especially now that I am Widow. Hubby, “Sudden Cancer.” 3 Weeks and gone. Six months and I am still in shock.
Oil base will yellow sooner than you think, there are oil resin hybrids that dry quick, flow smooth and dry very hard. Waterborne advanced tech waterborne paints have come a long way. The hybrids behave like oil base as they have better adhesion and a somewhat chemical adhesion, unlike a basic non hybrid water base. Waterbase can flow out very well depending on technique. Waterbase is way more flexible over trim board outside that expand and contract. Water base has better color retention with darker colors that are exposed to sunlight. Oil base paints will chalk over time. Ive seen waterbase enamels touch up easier over 43 years as a custom painting contractor.
Thnx Leah for the tips about oil-based paint conditioner and ox hair bristles. I never heard of either. Hope to incorporate one or both into my upcoming interior wood trim painting. Never see ox hair bristled brushes here in the Piedmont of North Carolina. Nonetheless, I’ve always gotten excellent, glass-like, smooth finishes with high-quality alkyd paint and China bristle brushes (Wooster and Purdy are my favorites for the past 25 years). Will look out for the ox hair brushes as well as the paint conditioner. Thanks for the articles for instruction and confirmation that I “can do this”. 🙂
It wasn’t until I’d watched this article a second time that I realized something. Leah (God bless her) isn’t just using oil paint. She’s using VERY NICE oil paint. Very expensive oil paint. Fine Paints of Europe, aka FPOE is freaking amazing paint, but just realize this stuff is like $250 a gallon. $75 a liter.
Does anyone pre-wet or condition their natural bristle\\ox hair brush with anything before going into the oil paint? My brush is a Corona Ox slim which has the same natural bristle components as the article (hog and ox ear hair) but it doesn’t look as tidy hers! When dry, and before use, my bristles are more bushy and flare out. But once I get them into some oil or varnish, everything tidys up and the shape of the bristles come to a nice tapered edge. Also no issues during painting. I still get nice clean strokes. It just dries bushy -even though I hang dry, comb it, and store in the cardboard keeper. Doesn’t look very neat no matter what I do, the bristles just do their own thing when dry. Just wondering if this is normal for it to dry bushy (unlike in the article) and if anyone conditions their brush with any products before going into the oil paint? Thank you for the responses!
Hi Jane, just a few things. You keep saying OIL PAINT, IT IS NOT OIL PAINT, it is oil based paint. Second you should never use an electric sander on anything but flat surfaces, You sanded the above profile slightly flat. Also with oil base paint you need A NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSH (China bristles) are best. And when using Flood paint addictives, pls point out there are 2 additives : Penetrol for oil base and Flotrol for water base. I really enjoy your website. Keep up your teaching.
In NY it is not possible to buy oil paints in larger than 1 quart. Oil paint is also known as alkyd paint. Here we use a lot of of oil modified or waterborne alkyds. Soap and and water clean up, but many qualities of alkyd, namely long open (dry) times but less odor. There are exceptions. Kilz Original is oil based and still available. It has a lower 350 VOC level. Still need ventilation. Can’t imagine the old 500 VOC products were like. Even 40 years ago unavailable in NY. Oil modified generally <100 VOC or latex <50 VOC before tinting. So much less.
Great article and good advice. Also should stress that VOCs can be toxic and to have plenty of ventilation when using them. I did my first oil paint on some wooden chairs this weekend – BEFORE perusal this article. My first chair wasn’t prepared properly and had a dappled surface, not glass. 2nd and 3rd chairs had the glass-like appearance after I properly prepared the wood (sanding 220 grit) and used a tack cloth. Product I used was the Minwax oil stain & polyurethane. 2 light coats and it was done!
Thanks for the endorsement for oil-based paint. I bought a house built in 1947 and having a heck of a time getting my point across to my contractors that I WANT oil-based paint, NOT latex. I”ve lost every time. I’m stipping doors now (I have 12 to do) and I WILL paint with oil-based paint this time…since I’ll be doing the painting! lol
Thank You Leah! Question!? I have watched a number of articles on painting OAK GRAIN kitchen cabinets..it is recommended to use a filler first, then prime, sanding in between steps… then paint, light sand, tacking… etc… Can you recommend any more expeditious way, or do I just need to suck it up? Will oil based paint FILL the grain, or do I need to use a filler as well, regardless? Does oil based paint only come in high gloss, or are there other finishes? Flat, satin, semi gloss? Also, I plan on masking off the interior of the cabinets, as I would like to use a gun. I am doing a whole renovation- walls, tin type ceiling, and cabinets… I am not concerned too much about overspray… or should I be? THANK YOU!!!
Oil paints are great, I used them a lot until acrylic latex came out. On occasion I still use oil occasionally. Mostly for wood coatings like sparkling varnish. Working with oil is a little different. The fumes are tough, and you must take care in sunny or windy days because you can overwork the paint which can cause it to coagulate and leave a poor finish. On my jobs today, if oil is involved, I only allow the better painters to apply the oil. The Penetrol is always a good idea, especially in sunny or windy conditions because it slows the drying time, and does allow a smoother flow. Keep up the good work Jane.
Great article… if you want to work with oil-based paints. No one wants to work with oil-based paints because the current quality is piss-poor, its vapors are hazardous, it’s hard to find, it takes forever to dry, and clean-up is laborious and far more difficult than clean-up after use of water-based latex paints. I would have been much better served by a article teaching me techniques for getting the most glass-like finish from latex paints. Oh, well.
This doesn’t really make sense. Anything you paint on a flat horizontal surface will have little to no brush marks so you will not get the same results painting something vertical, but you say this works for cabinets, baseboard etc… Only way to get no brush marks is to not use a brush. All the other things you explain here are great tips for reducing dust and getting the best results
First time I’ve disagreed with Leah: Using Floetrol with latex paint produces results very similar to using Penetrol with oil based paint. It’s made by the same company (Flood). I’ve painted cabinets and doors with it and people have remarked on how “glassy” the finish is: no brush marks, and modern latex paints are exceptionally durable. Leah’s absolutely right about one thing: Use a good brush. Sure, it costs more, but it’s one time when you get what you pay for. Paying $10 or even $20 more at a paint store (not a big box home improvement place) for a superior brush is an investment that will repay you many times over.
I LOVE oil based paint! As Leah said, you can’t be the smooth shine or the durability — and having time to work with it is priceless! Sadly, you can’t buy oil based paint in California!!!! You’d have to smuggle it in, which I’m most cases isn’t exactly practical. Is there anything you can do to water based paints to get a similar result???? Probably hoping for something that doesn’t exist!
Since maybe 1970 I have been listening to paint salesmen tell me that latex paint has improved since I last used it. It has, but it still has serious shortcomings when it comes to fine finishing. Beyond what is mentioned in the article, oil (or alkyd) paint sets hard. It doesn’t stay soft like latex. Also, once it has dried, it doesn’t stick to other plastic or painted surfaces like latex does, and you won’t be able to peel it off the previous coating with your fingernail. The one that surprised me about this article is that it omitted anything about brush cleanup. Partly because of its slower set time, oil paint can be more completely removed from brushes than can latex. It may require two or three rinses with mineral spirits, but my bristle brushes used with oil last until they are actually worn out. My brushes used with latex accumulate paint that will not dissolve with warm soapy water or mineral spirits even with working, agitating, and combing them repeatedly. It clogs the intentionally frayed ends of synthetic bristles reducing the ability of the brush to hold and smoothly spread paint. There may be times when you can’t avoid using latex paint on trim work, and it is fine for many other applications. But I say buy more alkyd! Use it as Leah recommends for all trims and doors, lest manufacturers make it even less available and more expensive. You will be pleased with the results despite the extra cost, smell, cleanup trouble, and drying time.
I grew up immersed in high quality construction. We did not worry about carcinogenic materials. But I recently learned I had lung tumors by the 2nd grade. The difference between then an now is we now know about Volatile Organic Compounds. When fine finishes are put up against Childhood Cancers, who cares about brush marks.
Great article, but you didn’t show the finished product (other than the dry previous base you had brushed). I could see imperfections since it’s such a high gloss. How do you remove those? Also, does the penetrol cause the paint to dry slower? I’m going to use a oil-based Rust Oleum gloss black on steel. I need to brush it on, and on a vertical surface. Does the penetrol thin the paint even more so and cause runs? Looking for a high gloss smooth finish by using a brush. OR…. would a roller work too? I tried a roller with this paint and it left tiny air bubbles… ruining the finish. Any ideas??
Your delivery is classic visual educator. Someone needs to produce your vids with a good sized budget. Your writing/dialogue needs no help, but c’mon people imagine these vids with a gloss like oil paint. World class. Of course they’re super great as they are, but you know the depths of corporate pockets.
The advantage of oil paints is that it doesn’t “dry”. Oil paints “cures” by oxidation (reaction with airborne oxygen molecules). We use it extensively in Washington and Oregon where it rains every week and we have high humidity. If someone vandalizes a barn with graffiti we can paint it over IN THE RAIN with nothing but the roof eves keeping the wall dry. So even in rain we get great results with oil paints. Try that with Latex.
I was scared of using oil, but I had a project so I did it. I was AMAZED at how easy it was to clean my brushes! Latex takes forever to clean up and uses tons of water. The oil came right out with a small amount of mineral spirits. Latex is marketed for easier clean up, but my own experience was different. You do a wonderful job explaining the details. Thank you.
Looks easy on horizontal surfaces. On vertical surfaces (doors, windows, trim) adding Penetrol will increase the open (wet) time meaning you’ll have to watch for drips and sags until it dries. Go easy on the Penetrol. Too much and you’ll be chasing drips and sags for an hour. On finish coats both latex and oil paints stick to the primer not the wood. That’s why you use primer – it sticks to the wood. And for latex paint there’s an equivalent additive called Floetrol. It increases the open (wet) time and allows the paint to level minimizing brush strokes.
Great article, had new windows placed about a year ago with a new sill. Wood has split, but have repaired, bare wood and now I will be using Oil Based paint, this article is spot on, and just have to pick up Penetrol Paint Conditioner. The outcome is fantastic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience. Ernest
Thank you. Question 1: Does using a foam roller work well with oil-based paint? Question 2: What is the concentration of Penetrol that you use? Other: I have a 1950 plastered house. I remove the wall paper from the walls in the kitchen and dining areas, it is very smooth. The rest of the walls in the house are the typical latex orange-peel walls. I’m redoing the house and I want the smooth walls and ceilings and will sand other areas as necessary. I’m thinking oil like the finish under the wall paper was.
Great article! You might want to revisit the brush recommendation though. The Purdy ox hair brushes have been getting a lot of bad reviews due to them shedding their bristles. Other Purdy brushes don’t seem to have the same issues (I do have some myself) but for a super fine finish, I’m not sure I’d trust their ox hair version.
Thank you very much for this informative film. I have a question about Kilz (I have Kilz 2). It says on the container that the product can be used for oil based paint. Is it good to use it, and do you need to apply Kilz or any other similar product if you go over the previous layer of oil paint. I changed the ends of Door Jambs in our garage and since I’ll be painting those bottom parts of the door jambs, I think to refresh the existing paint on garage door as well. I painted new parts I replaced w/Kilz, but not sure if apply in on the old paint. Thank you again, very good techniques shown and film.
I restore boats, specifically older Boston Whalers. A number of the components like seat risers etc are made of a molded plastic material that gets very dull and lifeless looking after some time. I stumbled on using Penetrol several years ago to bring back the finish on these pieces. It’s kind of like the ArmorAll of restorative materials for molded plastic. After spending weeks doing bright work on the teak and mahogany parts of these old beauties, it’s nice to have something that can make these acrylic parts pop. Oh yea, and it makes a great paint treatment also!
Late Nov 2021: I’ve looked at multiple DIY stores in my area and none of them sell oil base paint. In the 80s, I used to repaint houses and apartments for a living. For interior walls and baseboards, we used latex. But, for doors and cabinets, we used oil base. Exterior wood trim: old oil paint chalked off, while old latex paint pealed off. We always primed bare wood with oil. We always repainted oil with oil and latex with latex. But we found that oil primer was superior for bare wood. I lived in the area that we worked and kept an eye on the work we did. I know our methods worked well because our work lasted.
This is terrible advice. The off gassing of VOCs isnt just about the smell. They cause cancer and respiratory issues. And the VOCs arent done offgassing when the smell goes away. It continues for years. For a customer, that means added carcinogens in their environment. For the painter, it means constant exposure in high doses. With the development of latex enamels, the finish on latex especially when backed by a bonding primer can be just as durable as alkyd paints.
I loved your very informative article on “oil based paint”! Thank you. I do have a question for you. I recently cut out large, i.e. (7″ tall, 6″ wide, and 1-1/2″) thick Address numbers from plywood for our home. I wanted them to be very bright, so I painted them with door frame/trim paint which did not work, so I painted them with exterior grade paint (swiss coffee color). The end result was not what I wanted, and I am wondering if using an “Oil Based – (White Paint)” would make our “address numbers” shine bright, and make them pop? I would be extremely grateful for any, and all tips from you to get the desired result.
Oil (Alkyd) paints are very difficult to find in Canada in any variety. Not only are they smelly due to high VOC levels, the manufacturing process is extremely damaging to the environment. They can be manufactured responsibly, but the cost to do so is very high. Might also be worth mentioning that oil paints require mineral spirits (turpentine, varsol…etc.) for clean up of brushes, rollers or other supplies. Oil paint remains the winner for durability for exterior finishes.
Wow. U just solved a huge problem for me. I’ve been painting pine lap siding using oil base primer and latex acrylic paint. This combination is at the home owner’s request. I’ve prepped everything to the extreme, above and beyond to ensure quality finish. Wasn’t happy with even the mohair roller naps finish so decided to brush the whole job. The only problem I kept having was the little bit of drag and it wasn’t allowing the glass finish I want. I’ve used penatrol in the past and I know a little goes a long way. How much should I mix to a gallon of paint?
Would you be able to answer a question about this application working on a metal door? I just did a primer then a latex semi-gloss finish on my entry exterior door that is metal, and it looks horrible. The brush marks are hideous. Can I use this application with an oil based paint & add the Pentrol Flood product into it on a door that I would be painting upright? I don’t plan to remove it from the hinges. The brush marks are really an eye sore with the latex semi-gloss using both a roller brush and something Sherwin Williams carries that’s pricey (around a $25 brush Purdy I think is the brand). I would really like to get the results you show, but I realize you’re applying onto wood and that it’s flat.
honestly it used to be oil paint and Floetrol, but you just really just need a latex paint that is slow dry & high spread then toss in some Floetrol. Sherwin has one called Emerald that looks promising and price isn’t an issue since its for trim ONLY. Also the penetration of oil paint and stains is not as much as you are lead to believe (you want higher UV resist in the case of stains). More importantly than finish is oils durability, thats why its popular on trim – you touch it, again might be able to find an equivalent latex. Oh and when working with oil paint (if you some how manage to get it, it’s not avail in my country) make sure to have some paint thinner handy for cleaning brushes, you or the wall/floor/whatever you get it on. Also remember that you can use oil ontop of latex but not latex over oil unless you use a special primer. Just in case while it may seem like a good idea to pre paint trim, don’t. Put it on first with your finishing nails, pop in any stragglers with a punch, fill sand then paint (that white finish is a pimer… unless I’m remembering that wrong)
No oils, its nasty stuff and will kill u. That’s why we got away from it. How are u disposing of the excess paint u r washing your brushes out with? Are u using correct respirators? Also no way anyone is sanding crown base like that throughout the entire house mam. Unless you’re back is as strong as your legs.🤷🏽♂️
Thanks again for helpful info, Leah! I don’t use oil paint for the same reason you do use it 😀 It has such a perfect finish that one tiny dot of dust or a bug or a bad brush stroke really shows up. I’m just not patient enough for that – also with it taking so long to dry it’s much more likely to get that dust / pet hair or someone’s butt brushing against it. I do like the shiny finish but it’s near impossible to make it a really nice finish (even yours in the light showed some issues). Maybe I’m just too fussy?!
Absolutely love your articles, straight to the meat and potatos. I finished a huge kitchen cabinet repaint project on a reno home. Your articles were the most helpful that I came across. I will say one thing, if you recommend something, that is exactly what I am going to do. You are truly an artist with your work. Thanks for the HPLV article, my cabinets came out looking perfect!!!!
Really good article. Unfortunately, the problem with oil is the clean up. It’s messy and can’t be done in your utility sink unless you don’t care about it. Oh, and there’s probably an EPA law that prohibits the oil and spirits used to clean from going down the sink. Then there’s the expensive brush you purchased. Be prepared to spend more time cleaning it than the time you took painting. But, Leah is absolutely correct in that nothing compares to an oil finish on woodwork.
I think this technique works only if the painted object is put straight horizontal on the floor or on a table but you will not get smooth finish if the object is vertical like a door. The reason that makes this works on horizontal objects only is that gravity pulls the paint down and that fills the spaces of the brush marks. The paint must also be thin to give you smooth finish without brush marks.
Doesn’t oil paint tend to yellow? That’s the reason I’ve steered clean of oil paint. However, I’d love to know what you think! Oh, and one more question, just for grins… why do we need to sand a pre-primed piece of wood, if there are no marks or scratches on the wood. Is it just for adhesiveness (if that’s even a word) ha! Thanks for this article. Very informative, even for someone who has painted a lot!👍
The main reason oil paint became unpopular was the clean-up. The soap and water is so much easier. How ever, I am going to paint my kitchen cabinets and this is what I’ve been looking for. Thanks for skipping the music. Not everyone’s taste is the same and most of the time its annoying. Also for not talking too much. Sometime people blab away before they can get to what the articles about. Often I am thinking “will you just shut-up and get to the point”.
Leah, thanks for your great informative articles, and, your CAN DO attitude. I’ve had a few painters to do small jobs to see what their finished quality was like. I was not happy, with thend results and also their sloppy clean up. So I decided to paint my window areas myself. So far I love the results. It is an old house from the 1950’s, and new life is being put back into it.
Oh well this is the first time I can’t take Jane’s advice. I really really really cannot tolerate any oil paint or oil varnish whatsoever. I have had to move out of apartments, leave jobs, get rid of furniture because of off gassing. I don’t know if oil based products have improved like latex paints in the last twenty years, but I just can’t risk it. Even a couple molecules makes me faint and dizzy. Twenty years ago when I insisted on low VOC paints for remodeling the contractor and painter looked at me like I was a crazy person. Now the cheapest latex paints have less VOCs than the high end did back then. So does Jane have a similar article for latex? I do love the look of old oil painted trim but I can’t risk not being able to enter my house for six months or more. Used to be off gassing took months and months, especially if not expertly applied.
I get sensational results with sherwin williams Pro Classic Smooth Enamel. It’s water based so clean up is great. Its expensive but worth it. I have 3200 sq feet of white baseboards and they were in bad shape. They look new and they clean up like a dream. I’ve used this paint on the stair balusters and my walk in closet shelves.
I’m perusal this for the SECOND time, since her instruction worked so beautifully when I painted my metal front door and used the Flood additive. My front door gets all kinds of praise – glossy, no shadows or lines – just super sharp looking. I am now preparing to paint the interior of a new (white) patio door – painting it black using oil, since the door gets direct sun and the paint needs to be high-heat resistant (i,e., oil!). I can’t tape and spray inside the house, since my wife is very sensitive to aerosol spray fumes. Oil paint offgases too, but not with the same intensity — so THANK YOU, Leah!!!
I am an artist and I am going to attempt to try your method with my oil painting. why because NONE Of the mediums I’ve tried is getting the results I wanted, and I came across yours and wow! I am beyond impressed with your help with oil paints and even the voc .. I’ll post later when I get my piece done! maybe I’ll add a photo or two to show you and everyone! Thank YOU and love your house tips too! I do have a question if you know how to ‘mask’ an area that isn’t from tape to use with oil paints? I use a medium that is highly toxic for my other mediums like acrylic or watercolors but it only works on them, not oils. The tape is messy and hard to maneuver like the liquid masking. If you know, that sure would be fantastic! Have a super day and a love your articles!
I once uses a heat gun to totally remove all the paint from my exterior trim, which took weeks. I used to paint for a living and knew that oil base was superior to latex. But, I went to Sherwin Williams and they convinced me to use their latex primer and paint. They said their new formulatio was actually superior to oil base. I used it and it didn’t last a full year. If I would have painted that seasoned wood with Benjamin Moore oil base, it would have lasted 10 to 15 years.
I was having a dreadful time with rolling a very dark blue feature wall last night. Watched this article and today I re-painted wall following it exactly. I’ve never had a wall look so even when wet let alone dry. You gave proper in-depth guidance on when and how to load your roller, so many others never do. Thank you so much from bonnie Scotland.
Thank you for the article. I rewrote the points as notes. I was about to switch to a brush, but now I know the technique. Excellent article! Today, I applied your technique and I had to re “layout”, but I made sure the roller was wet. I thought I had a too wet column, but it faded into the surrounding color! I was smiling! That was my 5th coat!!! Now, thanks to you, I have the confidence to continue to bigger walls!!!!!
It’s been about ten years since I painted a wall with latex, and I’m finding it very difficult to keep a wet edge with today’s newest paints. They all dry too damn fast. If you have a textured wall, imperfections may not matter. However, many of us DIY’ers enjoy perfection, and we enjoy glass-smooth walls, even with flat/matte paint. Perfection for a DIY’er usually means we don’t like to rush. Professionals tend to be faster by default, because they paint more often, and it’s a money-making issue. With the new quick-dry paint formulas, DIY’ers are forced to paint faster, otherwise, they’re going to need an extender to get the best results. And many of the new paint formulas are forbidding the use of additives, so this all becomes one expensive experiment. After a lifetime of painting projects that I’ve always enjoyed doing, I can’t believe the struggles I’m now encountering. And of course I’m older, so I’m slower by default. LOL. Thank you for your helpful articles.
Thanks! When you say layout I assume that’s the same as backrolling? Also if spraying the wall then doing a layout, would you layout just the primer coats on new plaster or each coat? I assume texture would come from primer coats so my topcoat can just be sprayed on and not backrolled/layed out. But I would still be able to touch up with a roller to match texture in the future if ever needed?
Thanks for the article you’re the one who made me realize I really need to keep my roller saturated, much better results since! But I see you overlap by 50% the freshly loaded roller (1:31), don’t you end up with too much paint? When reloading I usually go to a new column and then backroll with 50% overlaps. Anyway maybe I’ll just try your technique and see how it goes
People do not be discouraged! I’m a journeyman painter. But I paint in a shipyard so it’s a bit different. I never painted at home or inside houses before. I wish I could put before and after pics but I was painting an office and it looked horribly streaky. I’ve been painting for years and didn’t think I would be that bad. 30 minutes later after it dried, the paint job looked 100% perfect. The paint might appear streaky while your painting. That’s because the wet color and dry color are 2 different colors. This type of paint dries fast so it will appear streaky as your still painting. But don’t panic until it dries. I promise anybody can paint.
Thank you! I’ve used white paint/primer to cover a previously hideous grey-brown. Will soon use some green to cover it up too, but trying to make a good base with the primer first. Will try this now on my fourth attempt 😅 So basically: Load properly. Make a roller length. Load with paint, start with 50% of the roller on the wall with wet paint and the other 50% on the unpainted space. After three “lapses”, go over it (layout, I think you said?) from top to bottom. Repeat.
I did as you suggest but anyway I see connections- lines. My paint was satin might be because it is shiny and walls are level 5. I tried to sand after airless spraying walls with primer and mud, after that since under lamp some places where uneven, to make it smooth. Then, I tried with roller to make not be seen some imperfections on the walls and that it happened. I see lines. Now I did send one more time and planing to spray since roller leaves lines on straight walls. Please, give me some tips how I should paint ( preferably without roller since it takes longer time and never smooth)straight walls. I want walls to be very very smooth no texture or imperfections at all.
Hey Chris Thank you so much for this article. I followed your painting tips to the letter and I am amazed how good the finish on my walls was after the 2nd coat! As you say – work fast and ensure that wet edge. One thing I would say to others is buy quality rollers and brushes and look after them by cleaning and storing them them properly. It makes a huge difference. Keep up the good work! 👍
If light hits at the right angle of a wall? How come I see paint stippling? It’s like I see the stippling in rows in every other roller width section?? I swear I use enough paint and keep a wet edge? Or…. I’m not using enough paint? But it feels like I am? It’s a satin sheen Sherwin Williams Emerald. Good quality paint I’m pretty sure. I get everything real wet like two rows of the roller width. then go back and roll top to bottom to keep the stippling the same throughout the whole wall. Can this stippling effect I’m dealing with be because there might be waves on the wall causing shadows that cause a messy stipple look?? I know this is a lot sorry… any advice would be great! Thanks!
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Thanks man. I painted for the first time in my life on my ceiling. I used a flat white paint. I am seeing some lap marks after 2 coats. After perusal this I think I really didn’t load my roller cover enough and I should have tried more to do a full line at a time, rather than trying to do 1.5-2 lines with 1 “load” of paint. I’ll keep this in mind for next time, hope I don’t look at the ceiling too much 😂