The door should not open 180 degrees but should not be a hindrance. In HVHZ zones, exterior doors must swing out, so it is recommended to mount the frame flush to the outside of the wall. This ensures the door is flush with the interior drywall and can be used as an extension jamb when the wall thickness isn’t standard.
To address open/shut clearance issues, raise the area under the floor that the door sits on. Some of the gravest door installation mistakes include failing to ensure the door’s operation and harm its components over time. Flush doors are ideal for various projects, such as a stylish interior door for a new studio or a durable exterior door for a woodshop.
Jib doors are flush-mounted right into the wall, often without hardware, making them “invisible”. This allows the door to flush on the outside of the room while still swinging to the inside. This is a perfect solution when all doors sit in the same plane of the wall.
Standard exterior door jambs for a 2×4 wall are 4-9/16″, which would put the jamb essentially flush with the exterior sheathing. As long as the rough opening allows for proper operation, the door should fit in the opening with trim sitting flush to the wall.
For pre-hung doors, getting the right jamb width ensures the door fits in the opening with trim sitting flush to the wall. If the existing exterior door swings in and hits the partition wall, it opens less than 90 degrees.
📹 Door Trim Installation when wall sticks out too far!!!
A quick and solid solution when the wall sticks out past the doorjamb! Patreon: …
Does the exterior door sit on the subfloor?
The door is typically installed on the subfloor, which is the bottom layer of plywood. The subfloor can only be removed up to the jack studs for the rough door opening, which also sit on the subfloor. The door jamb is on the floor, so it is unclear if the door was correctly installed on the lower layer of plywood. To replace the subfloor without removing the door jamb, you can reach into the narrow gap between the jamb and the last stud using a long Sawzall blade.
First, cut away what’s accessible, then make the jamb cut and wiggle the piece out. If there’s a nail in the last piece, use a metal cutting Sawzall blade to cut it off from below the ply between the ply and the floor joist.
How much space should be between door and wall?
In order to create a door rough-out, it is essential to ensure that a minimum distance of 3 inches is maintained from the corner to the door on rough-framed walls. This distance must be accounted for in order to accommodate the drywall. Additionally, a minimum of 4 inches of space should be allotted for perpendicular walls in order to accommodate the door jamb, stud, and jack.
What is a flush exterior door?
A flush door is a doorset where the door face is in-line with the door frame, unlike a recessed door. Urban Front offers both flush and recessed door structures, with both available with hinged or pivot door openings. The video animation demonstrates the visual difference between the two types. The “e80” range refers to the standard recessed range, while the “e98” range features a flush door with both sides built flat in-line with the frame. Passive is only available as a hinged option.
What is the pressure on exterior doors?
The opening force of exterior swing doors is affected by various factors such as wind loading, gasketing, HVAC systems, energy efficiency, and door weight. The minimum force needed for proper closure typically exceeds the accessible limit of 5 pounds required for other doors. Therefore, a maximum opening force is not specified for exterior hinged doors. Automation is recommended for doors with significant opening forces, while closers should be calibrated with the least force needed for closure.
What does it mean when a door is flush with the wall?
A flush wall door is a modern and minimalist design that blends seamlessly into a room with a smooth surface formed by the door leaf, frame, and wall. It is a popular choice for those who prefer a more uniform appearance, as the need for order and visual reduction is changing living culture. PIATTA S products are perfect for flush-to-wall room doors, as they are masters of this design language. The main focus of a flush door is its flat appearance, with the door leaf and frame on the same level, forming a continuous surface. This design language is becoming more common in today’s living culture.
How much gap between door and subfloor?
This article provides a comprehensive guide on interior door installation, covering everything from selecting the right wood door size to ensuring proper clearance and alignment. It emphasizes the importance of a gap between the door and the floor, which should be between a half-inch and three-quarters of an inch for optimal functionality. The guide ensures proper installation, smooth operation, effective air circulation, and prevents damage to flooring.
Interior doors, such as bathroom, bedroom, and closet doors, can be premade or painted over. However, exterior paint should not be used on interior doors as it releases harmful chemicals and is not suitable for most homes due to inadequate ventilation.
Should exterior door swing inside or outside?
Inward-opening doors are the safest option for fire escapes, as they allow rescuers to smash through and prevent opening into the face of an unsuspecting caller. However, in some situations, such as fire escapes, external doors may open in the other direction. This is because people may not always think clearly during emergencies, making it easier to push out of a building without breaking a stride.
In public buildings, it is important to consider that not everyone using the door will be of equal strength, and making things easier for small children and the elderly is welcome. Wheelchair users might struggle to back themselves up and pull the door open. The advantages of inward-opening doors are negated, making the advantages of opening outward more insurmountable.
Why is my exterior door not flush with the frame?
To properly close a door, ensure that the door jamb and frame are in the same plane. If the wall is slightly twisted, move the bottom of the door jamb/frame in the same direction as the door sticking out. This can be done by slightly bending the door installation brackets. Once the door is closed and the trim/casing is removed, slightly hammer the door jamb/frame in the correct direction. Use a block of wood between the hammer and the jamb to prevent damage.
Open and close the door to check that it is tight against the door stop, which should be about flush all the way from the bottom to the top. Sometimes, you may need to move all four corners of the door, split the difference by moving multiple corners. Place the door casing/trim directly over the brackets to cover up the movements. This will ensure that the door is perfectly in plane, even if the wall is not completely flat, and the imperfections will be hidden by the door trim/casing.
Should doors be flush with wall?
A flush-to-wall door system offers both decorative and physical benefits. Its constructive method inserts the frame inside the wall, eliminating visible door posts and exposed hinges, saving space in smaller areas for other decorative elements. Additionally, flush-to-wall doors are more stable and can stand against twisting. Their hidden technology secures a clear joint without missing a millimetre gap between the wall and the panel. For more details, explore our exclusive flush-to-wall doors and systems, including hinged, pivot, and sliding doors.
Do exterior walls sit on subfloor?
Walls are built on top of a home’s subfloor, which can sometimes require removing the walls. Replacing a subflooring system under a wall may be necessary if the subfloor is water-damaged or no longer structurally sound. This labor-intensive project requires a good grasp of construction skills. A subfloor is a solid base underneath the floor covering that is crucial for the stability of a room’s floor and walls.
Replacing a subfloor can escalate into a more significant project, requiring the help of experts if it is under an exterior or load-bearing wall. In some cases, parts of the subfloor can be removed without taking down the wall.
How does a flush door look like?
Flush doors are doors with a smooth, flat surface on both sides, distinguishing them from panel doors and French doors. They are versatile and suitable for both interior and exterior applications, depending on the type. They can match various design styles and construction needs, making them ideal for various projects. Flush doors can also refer to hidden doors that are perfectly flush with the wall, which blend in with the wall and usually lack a door frame.
They are becoming increasingly popular in modern architecture due to their sleek, minimalist appearance. In this article, we will discuss flush doors in the context of doors with a smooth surface, not doors made to be flush with the wall. It is important to note that the term “flush door” can refer to either of these door types.
📹 Make Door Jamb Flush With Wall | Uneven Sheetrock
Making a door jamb flush with drywall is a simple project and one you can do yourself. For many reasons, drywall may be thicker …
Most doors (frankly all doors at home improvement centers) are sold for 2×4 construction. I find that a lot of people don’t know that you CAN get door jambs for 2×6 doors. Also, making custom jambs is not hard at all. I bought composite jambs for my exterior doors and made jambs out of 3/4 poplar for my interior doors. I ripped them down to the exact width I needed.
I’m not kidding, I had this EXACT problem – My house was built with 2x4s and plaster over plasterboard walls. All the pre-hung doors you can buy around here are made for 2×4 and 1/2in drywall. I’ve had a doorway sitting in my hallway for months that looked awful because I was too scared to make my own jamb extension. I was going to have a contractor do this when I had new windows put in the house (something I just cannot do). However, this morning I saw your article and this evening I put in the extension myself. it looks amazing and didn’t take me more than an hour or two (I haven’t done the casing yet since I am skim coating the old plaster walls). Thanks for the motivation and instruction. You’ve been a huge help.
OutSTANDing! Double reveal as opposed to trying to flush either or both. Quality stuff man! You mentioned your desire for MDF over that finger joint: Forget that man. You will eventually learn…. hopefully: MDF has no business anywhere that is in contact with the floor or where people can rub it or bump it: EsPECially on it’s corner edges. I mean if you care about what you’re giving your customer and how long your work lasts and stays lookin’ good.
You mentioned the trick of cutting out some of the drywall to make the trim straight. On a couple of the walls that were installed by the drunk guy in my bedroom remodeling I did exactly that. The wall was slightly bowed, not enough to notice (after I spent several hours adding mud to flatten it), but definitely noticeable when adding the trim. So I cut out a notch about a foot long so the trim would lay flat. I will have to do the same thing in the hallway where the wall is REALLY screwed up. The new drywall that was added was up to an inch out of alignment at the top from the original drywall and took many coats of mud to tapper it to look flat. When I go to add the new trim I will have to cut a notch in the original drywall so the trim will go on straight.
First time I’ve seen you in a article without mud! Awesome! I actually needed this for my on-going voice record/Virtual meeting studio build…I doubled my drywall layers which have my doorways looking wonkie. This is really starting to get freaky… Every time I decide to check in on one of your newer articles, it ends up being some thing I need to tweak yet on this project (it’s been going a lot slower since the summer hit since there’s too many things outdoors to do). I swear sometimes I think you’re looking in my back window trying to figure out what your next topic is going to be! (… I am just imagining that, aren’t I?!…) A big THANKS {again!} to: “The Most Carpentery-ist Drywaller On The Internet!”
Every time you fire a nail, use a mitre saw or a table saw without ear protection you’re damaging your hearing. Imagine standing next to an airport and perusal a 747 taxiing to the runway and then imagine what that sound is like 24 hours a day. It’s called tinnitus and it can consume your life. They actually use that as a sound effect in movies these days when someone is blown off their feet by an explosion. They muffle the sound and introduce a high pitched squeal to the sound track. That’s what I hear all day, every day.
You must be psychic. Talk about timing! I’ve been considering extending a couple existing door jambs and I wondered if such extensions were a thing. Although I was gonna do it anyway, this vid makes it much easier to actually do. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you! BTW, anytime you want to do a series of articles on routers and, especially, router bits, don’t let me stop you. lol
If I have to extend jambs I like to divide the reveals between the jamb and the extension and the extension and the casing. Especially if you have another door right next to it. So if that other door that’s finished has a 1/4″ reveal, I would use 1/8″ on the reveals of the door you are extending. This way the outside edges of the casings are the same on both doors. The eye will pick up that one casing is 1/4″ taller than the other. If I’m looking down a hallway and there are multiple doors and the casings are all different heights it stands out like a sore thumb. The walls will usually be a different color than the trim, or at the very least a different finish, and the doors, jambs, jamb extensions and casings will likely all be the same color and finish. The consistency of the reveals is moot by comparison to the consistency of the height of the casings.
Thanks bud! Just put in a new exterior door to the kitchen, only to realize after installing, caulking, and spray foaming all the gaps, that it was too shallow to meet up with the wall. Whoops. Lol my grandpa wanted me to pull it back out and cut the siding to inset it deeper in the wall. No thanks, I’m good. Not re-doing all that lol. It’s gonna be jam extensions all the way for me. Thanks for making my life a little bit easier anyway. Keep up the good work brother.
This will be very helpful. I pulled off two door casings and need to build new ones. One of them doesn’t have a top, and the frame is a bit high so I need to add material to lower it about 1 inch. What are standard measurements for insides of door frames? There won’t be a door in this case, so nothing prehung to just stick in there. Thank you.
DeWalt has a fantastic fence system. It is a rack and pinion and makes the tiniest adjustments. Thank you for showing this. I do my own repairs and remodeling. I have had to make this kind of adjustment before, and I really did not know what I was doing. I did what I thought seemed logical. When I find a article on You Tube, that shows a professional tackle the same problem and I see that he does it the way I figured out, makes me feel better. Lets me know that I guessed right. Thankyou. I am 61 and back in the day of my youth, there was no You tube or internet — period — to go to for reference and instruction. You had to figure it out if there was no one in your life to teach you. Now, I go to You Tube first to get an idea of what to do. Saves a lot of time. Sometimes you still have to use your brain and fudge, because the same type of problem can vary in the needed solution, but You Tube gives you a starting point. Thanks to all the professionals out there that are willing to share their knowledge. Some of us just cannot afford professional services. We have to DIY or we live in a mess of a dwelling.
I’ve done several of these types of repairs but I’ve always butt jointed the extension piece to the frame because I didn’t like look of the the double reveal. I found that if you use wood glue and fasten it to the frame with a lot of brad/finish nails (every 6-8″), the two pieces of wood will expand and contract as a single piece of wood. You need to also use Durham’s Rock Hard wood putty over the seam and sand. Two coats of LATEX paint will prevent cracking. The corner seams of my casings crack before this seam. But if you don’t want to do all this work, the double reveal is your best bet. Thanks for the great vid tutorial!
The casing is the cookie, and the door & jam is the white fluffy filling, sandwich together and ya get a good strong looking end product😉 Been in trim jobs where we did butt the extension together, cuz the homeowner wanted it that way; so, ya give them what they want…..with the knowledge of what can happen over time. Great vid✌🏻
It looks awesome. Is there a reason that you don’t make the reveal flush with the door jam, and you stagger it in steps with the trim? Is it because the resulting larger jamb would resist looking like one solid piece, and would need to be caulked and wouldn’t look perfect, vs. having nice staggered sharp edges?
Looks good.. I guess the best case scenario would be to have some 3/4 stock on hand, so you can cut strips a bit wider, and aren’t trying to nail into a half inch jamb extension, well quarter inch to work with after moving in for the reveal.. not a whole lot of meat there.. but anyways looks like it worked fine.
I live up the coast a bit, and found lots of that old fir casing in the dump. Whenever possible, I’ve reclaimed it for use in projects. It’s gorgeous! Love old fir for building with. Thanks for the tips on trimming out the door jambs..I have this issue with the new windows I put into my old mobile home. I think this is the answer for me. 🙂
Nail gun in hand. Check. Flying nail warning check. Squints on head check. Sorry bud. Old habit since the boss pays the insurance on my jobs. That’s me. Try this to remember. Every time you pull a trigger be profoundly grateful for sight. Make Norm Abrams proud and echo his warning. Love your work sir. Appreciate it. Thank you.
Same situation, “however”, my brother had bought a pre-hung split jamb door and the house had thicker wall dimensions because of the plaster (1960’s home). He stained the door prior to my arrival / install. I ended up having a split in the middle of the jab. I used shims all the way around the door jamb (a lot of them) and bought a narrow trim piece which butted nicely to the door stop. Do they make a wider door jamb or are they a special order item ? Thanks for your articles.
Question – When you put in the initial extension – why didn’t you put the top one in first so that the two sides end up “holding it up” at the top corners – just like the other reveal is – at least for consistency’s sake? (33 yr handyman here – Sonoma County wine country) To me, at least – it does give the illusion of more strength when the verticals end up securing the top from underneath. Just sayin! – Thanks for your GREAT articleS! Learn something every time – especially about the art of sheetrock and mud etc.
For a lot of us this kind of project is a looming freaky question mark of doom!! Kind of like the look on some folks faces just after being handed a set of chop-sticks and being told “These have been commonly used for centuries. It’s EASY!🤗” ThankS for the fun, simple, albeit calming demo. I have one of these jobs at home which has been on my HoneyDoo list for about 4yrs 😯. … today is the day I smite this now insignificant beast! ✊
Nice job. I like to hold the extension jamb and the casing on the same plane so there is only the one reveal. Especially when everything is painted because with a nice smoothed bead of quality paintable caulk everything appears seamless and the assembly seems to have no extension jamb just thicker casing. Good article though to show this method of installing an extension jamb.
That was a fairly wide build out. Most of the time, I encounter maybe 1/2″ at most. But it looked pretty good man! Keep that tool pouch on! I was always told that using a reveal makes a carpenter look better than he actually is! 😆 When you butt joint the casing to those extensions, it creates an optical illusion to where it will NEVER look right. It won’t ever look even and the inconsistencies will pop out like a sore thumb!
I have a similar problem in my home now thanks to the guy that just installed a new door/jamb for me. He installed the jamb so it’s hanging past the drywall on the inside of a closet but shy of being flush on the face side of the closet. It’s off about 1/4″ but I’m replacing all of my door casings and baseboard with wide flat stock trim so now the door casting won’t sit flat on the door jamb. It could probably be caulked but I’ve spent months redoing all the builder grade casings in my home and it pisses me off that this guy installed the jamb that way. I’ve thought about scraping down some of the drywall so the casing will sit flat. Anyone have any other suggestions?
I wish I would have seen this article about 3 weeks ago. I just did trim replacements for my MBR closets, and it was a nightmare. All I had was a hand miter box, hammer, and nails. My wife’s closet door casing has so much gap in it I had to angle the nails…and eventually trim screws, (I completely suck with a hammer) so they were driving into the 2×4 structural studs, or I’d wiff the casing right into air. I even managed to cut the damn miter for one of the pieces wrong, so I had to redo that too, lol. Once I got everything wood filled, and painted it looks much nicer than I thought it would be. I think I’ll be saving up for a decent brad nailer to make my life easier. Turns out you have to be good at things if you plan on using hand tools, and I’m not. LOL.
1:10 to 1:30 is the best part of any article. What you just did there is the difference between actually teaching someone something or simply retaining viewers until the end to know how the mystery resolves. It has a huge effect on learning and remembering your article since we can now follow along and think for ourselves and sort of know in what direction you are going and and can therefore anticipate what is comming. On the other hand those mystery articles that only care about viewer retention and leaves everything a mystery until the end will often not teach the viewer anything since they could not follow along. Thank you!
I’ve done it that way a few times. Something I also do is to attach the jamb extensions to the trim with the edges perfectly flush. I then cut my modified trim to the necessary lengths and attach it to the door jambs. That way you have a single reveal rather than two. When ripping your jamb extensions cut a few extra scraps to the same thickness – you can put those on the deck of your miter saw to support the unmodified edge of the trim so it lies nicely on the miter saw. The downside is that if the jamb extensions are really thick then the total thickness of the modified trim can end up being a little too much for 2″ brads.
I wish I had seen this article 9 weeks ago when we had this exact problem in the house I was working on. The handymen my friend hired added jamb extensions but made them flush on some sides and left uneven 1/8″ reveals on other sides… of the same door. Every door was different. Made me feel sick when I saw it.
Whats most common in Canada when it comes to construction? Imperial or metric? Comming from the metric system, I have a hard time following when theres a jump in fractions, like 1/4 or 3/16. Anyway, really enjoy your articles, given me alot of good tips, especially when it comes to drywall and mud/taping!
So I could use a nail gun, nails for that gun, hose, a compressor — actually I found one. I need a slide rule thing– I see how you can use one now. I need a chop saw. I have a tape though. I have many hammers. I have nails. I have POS chop saw from probably the 70’s. It is so primitive but it still runs and the blade is super dull. I’m just saying a project can look quite easy when you have the tools. I also have a cheapo table saw from the 80’s, a craftsman. The fence is questionable and always makes me nervous. It works though. It’ll do if you don’t have one.
You showed a way, another way would have been to do a flush extension jamb being 3/4″*1 1/4″ even doing the Way you did you should have ripped extension jamb strips 3/4″*1″ . Your mentor should have taught ‘may crack’ and taught you how to sand and bondo such seam. The wider extension jamb, provides more room/space/Wood to nail to. Edit: I should have better worded My comment w/o busting your balls. I actually like the double reveal method. At first I thought you was going to show how to cut trim into Sheetrock, then I thought you might do 13/16″* 1″ or 13/16″*3/4″. As stated in original comment I like to Go wider than necessary minimum width of extension jamb as it doesn’t leave you with the tight nailer edge in My mind that should be the major finish Carpenter tip of your Short. Have you ever had to cut a 2″-3″ radius tree at 7′ and milled it out with a table saw and planer bcuz you were short on lumber and needed an extension jamb or etc.? I’ve been thinking maybe I should do a Short with me in the middle of a nor Easter in Vermont where I do precisely that go outside, cut a small tree Mill it into a small piece of finish trim, while filming.
31 and 3/4 or 31 and 1/4? If you had cut it at 31 and 3/4 And walked over to the door with it You would have had a 50/50 chance of getting it right. As you did it, You guaranteed yourself an extra trip by walking over to remeasure. These are the things I think about. Not hating on you at all Ben I love you man!
Sorry to put this here but I have just bought a home from the year 1900 in the UK & the door trim round the whole door is jutting out on EVERY door in the house, probably because of subsidence that occurred at some point, as the whole house is that wonky kind of Victorian you get in the UK. Do I fill these holes or remove completely & retack, then fill any holes left over? Do I fill with foam or silicone? I want to do this right as the house deserves it 🙂
I’m no safety police, but I regret not having hearing protection in my earlier days. Granted, it was in the Army so my choice were limited. But taking off my hearing protection during grenade range was stupid. Firing Ma-Deuce w/o protection was stupid. Firing off claymores w/o hearing protection was stupid. But I was at the stage of old of enough to know better but young enough not to care. And today, I drive my kids crazy with “huh?, what? say again?” What or how you go about your job is you choice. There’s not a day goes by I don’t feel regret. If I could tell my younger self one thing, it’d be “wear hearing protection!” So you go on and stamp your form, sonny, and stop wasting my time. Because to tell you the truth, I don’t give …wait I went straight Shawshank Redemption on you! 😂
This article is hilarious. Calls himself a carpenter but doesn’t know name of tools., believes a casing reveal is 1/4″ and believes base molding and casing are interchangable. Lastly a jamb extension should always be ripped to the deepest measurement. But what does a carpenter of 30+ years know. Oh yeah, real wood always superior to mdf. IMHO
Nice. Facing this problem with our renovation. Our walls are masonry, though. Can the same be done using good glue to the drywall on masonry? Or are there special nails? In some places, it’s drywall on metal stud (insulation between the metal stud and old masonry walls). Feeling insecure about face nailing and about gluing trim!
We had a bathroom renovation, the tiles were 10mm thick, the architrave 11mm, which meant with glue the tiles were proud of the architrave, it’s an ugly look, my solution was to get a 19mm thick architrave with the same profile.. which meant the architrave would be proud about 5-10mm which was ok.. it saved me cutting 10mm strip around the door frame.
Sorry pal, love your work but that “double reveal” is uuuggly… not buying the guaranteed to crack excuse; sounds like a poor excuse of someone unwilling to take a few extra minutes to glue and set an extra piece into place. And yes, I’ve been back to many to see they’ve not cracked over the years.
Why do a double reveal, especially when it is nearby a standard door installation with a single reveal. Doesn’t look so good to have this mismatch. In my 40+ years as a carpenter, I’ve always added the jamb extension as you’ve done, then cut and nail the head trim so it flushes out with the inner edge of the extension. Do the same down the two legs, mounting them individually and cross-nailing the miters. This looks neater without the double step.
Eternally grateful for this article getting recommended to me today. Just about done with mudding the drywall in my garage and am about to move onto the finish carpentry. Had to bring everything up to code so went with 5/8″ drywall. Have a nasty gap around a door jamb and was going to try to make the extensions flush with the existing jamb. This technique will save me SO much hassle in the short and long term. Thank you!!!
I don’t understand why you did a double reveal. You could’ve done the ripped piece the same way and then made the trim and ripped piece flush, only having one reveal. Now you have a doorway that doesn’t match any of the others big time. Sure it wouldn’t have matched 100 percent the way I said but there also wouldn’t be a fucking double reveal for literally no reason.
This was my question to Handymom last wk which she never addressed. I have old framing in my house–actual 2×4 made of redwood–& I can’t find them at the local box store & lumber mill can’t be bothered w/ a homeowner’s tiny order. I want to make a door to the garage from a gable end. I was thinking of buying a 6×6 & ripping it out so the King & Jack studs matched the framing. Is this article what I need?
I’ve finished dozens of doors frames. Can’t understand why u join the mitres beffore fixing the trim to the door jamb. I always mitrered eaco upright, nailed it, then mitrered the top pc, glued the mitre, dropped the pc in & nailed it, tweeked the pcs with tiny shims to fit flush then tap in a small nail accross the mitres to hold.
Well in the olden days, the supply yards had an employee who would go out to the job sites and actually measure the openings for all the interior doors. and they would make the jamb width the proper size to begin with. But today, the large box stores, where most people buy their trim, dont do things like that. So what it all amounts to is that professional people have been eliminated to a large degree in the building industry. And that means that the onsite workers need to make up for the so called progress thats been made. And the same rep. from the supply yard would also supply the contractor with things like carpenter pencils and nail pouches. All with the supply yard name on them of coarse.
When you renovate each home, please give them a name and put it in the title so we know which home you are working on. Thank you for showing your mistakes like when you cut yourself or when you threw up due to paint poison and letting us know when you don’t know what to do but then think overnight and come up with a perfect fix the next day. I loved seeing you use concrete bags and wetting them for steps and retaining wall. Tips and tricks are why I am binge perusal all your articles.