How Much Should I Charge To Design Furniture?

Interior designers use various pricing models, including hourly rates, flat fees, markups, and percentage-based charges. The average room cost can range from $2,000 to $12,000, with the design work costing between $450 and $1,500 per room. Hiring an interior designer can range from $2,000 to $14,000, excluding furnishing costs.

Fixed Fee (Package pricing) is a single flat fee for work on an interior design project, which is charged on top of total construction and/or furnishing costs. On average, the cost to hire an interior designer is between $50 and $200 per hour, in addition to the cost of furniture and accessories, which is marked-up based on the project.

The cost of hiring an interior designer can vary dramatically, depending on the experience and level of experience. For beginners, the hourly rate can be between $50-$125 per hour, while experienced professionals can charge between $100 and $200 per hour, typically totaling around $5,200 in design fees.

Interior decorators charge between $50 and $200 per hour, with consultation fees and a cost-plus fee. On average, a typical interior designer will cost anywhere from $2,000 to $12,000, excluding furniture. Some designers charge by the hour with a rate ranging between $150 to $500 an hour, while others charge a percentage rate for the total cost of their work.

In conclusion, there is no hard and fast rule for interior designers, but it’s essential to decide the best pricing structure for your project.


📹 How To Price Your Furniture The Easy Way!!! / Charge for Woodworking | William Douglas Co. (4K)

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How much should I charge for design work?

The hourly rates for graphic design services vary considerably, with rates for experienced designers typically falling within the range of $65 to $150 per hour. The hourly rates for entry-level professionals in this field typically range from $25 to $50. The mean freelance graphic design rate for logo design is $100 to $5, 000, contingent on the designer’s experience and the type of brands they work with.

How much should I charge for a custom design?

Freelance designers typically charge between $15 and $50 per hour, with mid-level designers charging $50 to $150, and highly experienced designers charging $150+. The cost ranges from $5 to $100, 000+ for design projects. To determine the quality of design and the appropriate budget for custom logo, website, product, or other design services, consult our comprehensive design pricing guides. Click the drop-down to start.

How to charge for furniture design?
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How to charge for furniture design?

An interior designer’s percentage of project cost can range from 10 to 45, with an average of 15 to 30. This includes materials, furnishings, and contractor fees. The designer adds their design fees to this cost, typically with a 20 to 35 mark-up on purchases and services. This billing method is straightforward and involves providing a cost estimate for the entire project, including furnishings, finishes, installation, and contractor fees. The designer must provide the client with copies of all vendor invoices and be transparent.

Another option is a “design for a day” fee, typically for eight hours of work, which averages $600 to $2000. This fee is ideal for small, specific projects like furniture placement, color consultation, or shopping trips.

How much do designers mark up furniture?

Interior designers who possess trade account privileges bear the responsibility of determining the cost of furniture markup, which can range from 10 to 30 above retail prices. The following factors are taken into consideration: market trends, time spent on logistics, profit margin, project scope, number of clients, and the exclusivity and quality of the furniture in question. The precise cost is contingent upon these variables.

How to charge design fees?

High-end decorators often use a percentage pricing model, charging a percentage of the total project cost instead of an hourly rate or flat fee. This allows for better customization of quotes for each client. It’s crucial to find a pricing model that works for your business and experiment with different percentages. Breaking down the cost into smaller chunks helps clients understand where their money is going. For instance, 20 for design work, 15 for materials, and 15 for labor.

What is a reasonable design fee?

The typical hourly rate for principal designers is between $250 and $300, with a differential of approximately $150 to $500. It is not uncommon for these professionals to require a retainer, which can range from $2, 000 to $10, 000, depending on the scope of the work. The fee structure may vary depending on the complexity of the project in question.

How do you cost a design?
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How do you cost a design?

The analysis of material usage in a design involves considering factors such as tolerance, machining requirements, packaging, shipping, logistics, manufacturability, and labor. These factors can indirectly affect process and ecological costs, and can be complex and interrelated. For instance, adding weight to a design can require increased component tolerances, but also require consideration of facilities and supply chain costs.

To manage these variables effectively, organizations must invest in innovative software for manufacturing cost estimation and integrate cost management into their culture. This approach ensures that every design choice affects the overall cost and functionality of the design, ensuring a cost-effective and efficient product engineering process.

What is the normal markup on furniture?

The typical markup for distributors of consumer products, such as furniture, is in the range of 20 to 30 percent. However, markups for retailers vary considerably depending on the product type and business style. In general, markups for retailers fall within the range of 50 to 100 percent.

How do you charge design fees?

High-end decorators often use a percentage pricing model, charging a percentage of the total project cost instead of an hourly rate or flat fee. This allows for better customization of quotes for each client. It’s crucial to find a pricing model that works for your business and experiment with different percentages. Breaking down the cost into smaller chunks helps clients understand where their money is going. For instance, 20 for design work, 15 for materials, and 15 for labor.

How to calculate design cost?

To estimate the cost of a product design project, it is essential to determine the designer’s time and earnings per hour, and multiply the number of hours needed to complete the order by their rate. Understanding the product design cost estimate is crucial for making informed decisions and ensuring the success of the project. By having a complete picture from the start, decisions can be made more quickly and reasonably, leading to more successful outcomes. This article provides a comprehensive list of factors that affect the final price of ideas, ensuring a smooth and efficient process for the product design team.

How much should I charge as a freelance interior designer?
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How much should I charge as a freelance interior designer?

Interior designers typically charge per hour for their time, covering travel, site visits, correspondence, and coordination. The average hourly rate is $100 to $200, depending on the designer’s experience level. For smaller projects, junior-level designers may bill at $50 per hour, while principal designers can charge $200 to $500 per hour. For small firms or freelance designers, expect to pay within the $100 to $200 per hour range.

The hourly rate covers design and coordination services only, with furniture and material purchases billed separately on an invoice. Other fees like coordination fees or special rates for travel time will also be billed this way.


📹 How much should I charge as an Interior Designer ?

How much should I charge as an Interior Designer? This video will discuss the different factors that affect an interior designer’s …


How Much Should I Charge To Design Furniture?
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Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

Email: [email protected], [email protected]

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45 comments

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  • Pretty much. My pricing structure is nearly identical. And I think doing it this way is the easiest way for clients to understand. So when I give them an itemized list for a quote, they don’t just speculate I’m trying to take them out to the cleaners. Especially when it’s super big projects… Thinking about spending as much for woodwork as you would for a nice lightly used car is a daunting thought. The readable list the way makes people feel more comfortable I think. By the way… I appreciate the fact that you are accurately answering people’s questions with experience and wisdom. A lot of people on YouTube answer with speculation to feel smart lol. Great work. I think your website will grow quickly. Subscribed.

  • What you should charge is what the market will support. Raise your prices until business dries up to the point that overall revenue goes down, then back off a bit. Someone new shows up and undercuts you? Undercut them back and defend your customer base. I’m not a carpenter, but a mechanic. Pricing is 100% about what they’re willing to pay, not about materials or what you’d like your labor cost to be. Of course, if you’re just starting out, you don’t really know what the market will bear, except by looking at existing services. So something like he’s talking about is still helpful. Still a good vid, and I dropped a like 🙂

  • Glad to hear that’s what you do. I pretty much do exactly the same only difference is I charge 20% on top of the materials which I use to pay any natural costs I didn’t really calculate like glue as well as to account for the ware and tear/tool maintenance. But I guess I can always just add that to my hourly labor charge. Up my labor charge and it does the same thing which is what you do. Love it, keep it simple stupid or keep it stupid simple? Lol

  • I have owned and operated a custom Millwork business since 1987 and made pretty much every mistake you can being self employed. Something I heard about 15 years ago was that this industry has many great craftsmen that are terrible business people which is so true. Your so busy fabricating under time restraints that you don’t make time for the paper work part of it. As far as hourly rates, usually you will figure that out quickly after loosing money on a few jobs. If your skilled, don’t sell yourself short, there are people working in factories making over a hundred thousand a year with no investment out of there own pockets, with little stress. Great article William should help people new in the business.

  • Great explanation. In my shop in Texas we don’t do by hour on furniture builds. Weather sanding by hand or using a 60K machine the cost still needs to be met. 60K needs to be calculated into cost of running it. We have done well by doubling material plus 25% Double material cost covers time and 25% reasonably covers shop supplies like glue finish and blades machine repair that sort of thing. This covers time materials and still a little profit. King sized Walnut bed, 1100 Lumber cost x 2 plus 25% cost to client 2750 for custom built ship lap bed all traditional joinery. We made our money and cost and the client gets a hand crafted bed for a fair price. This also saves me tracking hours when working multiple builds at once. We charge the material cost up front so we aren’t out of pocket on any builds if the client doesn’t take delivery for any reason. Hasn’t happened but we can recover our cost if it did for some reason.

  • Super article thank you! I believe that the vision of woodworkers is surely different where you come from, but unfortunately where I live (Canada, Quebec) people here believe that it is only a profession of passion and that it is not for making money. In no case will I be able to charge $ 85 / hr in my area, even if the plumbers and electricians charge exorbitant prices and they often have no infrastructure. I try to change people’s vision and I choose clients with financial means, but it is still seen as a passion and not as a real career. I think it can be both! Thanks again for the article!

  • As someone who has no experience with wood working and has very little space and so few tools, what are some resources you would suggest for learning? I have always wanted to learn but never had the space and while I still dont have alot of space I have enough that I feel like I could start with small projects or at least just learning some basics

  • I’m just getting into making – I want to say professionally but perhaps custom or fine is more accurate. This was very helpful. I need to do a few spec items now to see how long it takes when I’m not doing it as a hobby. Do you put wear and tear in the hourly, or is that something else? So jealous of your location. Florida and Arizona two best bicycling states in America. I’m in Canada sooo no biking for three more months.

  • Upcharging for wood usually covers the cost of the admin work to calculate, purchase, pickup or receive, pay the bill, do the bookkeeping, storage and overhead, etc. Don’t feel bad about up charging. 99.99% of customers don’t care or know what you pay, and when you explain it if they ask, they usually understand it. Maybe charge retail price, and the discount you get is for investing into your business. I am a purchaser, so forgive me, it’s how my professional business brain works. I hear this from mostly small shops / businesses only. Up charging gets a bad rep, but it doesn’t have to be about greed.

  • the problem is that people who are asking this are generally starting out. Someone starting out cant say $85/hr because it may take them 10 hours to complete a project, where someone who is experienced, already has a large investment in time saving tools etc. can do the same project in 3 hours. People need to make their hourly rate reflect their skill and experience. So if you are having trouble selling your projects, maybe you should only get minimum wage, you start over selling and getting busy, your hourly rate goes up. Guess i should have finished perusal the article – you addressed that, take my like 😉

  • Same way I do it. Unfortunately I’m terrible at estimating my time, because there’s always something that comes up, or my closest hardwood dealer has run out of Walnut when I show up, and I’ve got to go to the other one an hour away. Do you find people scoff at your $85/hour? People usually get sticker shock at my $65/hr but then ultimately come back two weeks later after they’ve shopped around.

  • Simple on the surface for sure. But like you said, they’re going to get their hourly rate wrong…that’s where all the different approaches really come in. I can appreciate the simple method, but prefer the method where you treat the business and yourself as different entities and take into account margin, tho a straight hourly rate can do the same thing if it’s set right. Great article, another great tip you mentioned was limiting the wood choice, and finish choice… I’ve been burned before offering stains and am moving away for sure. That making Al-der look like walnut hits close to home 😂 great article

  • The hardest part of any woodworkers business is the cost of the wood,i make a lot of stuff from reclaimed wood,but even then people dont understand what a piece of two hundred year old lumber costs,or the work we put into making something out of it,another great article,just remember where not in it for the money,just the wood,lol

  • Will, things to consider, how do you buy equipment and consumables? What about profit, which is not what you pay yourself on an hourly basis. You need to add for depreciation of your equipment and at least 10 percent to the entire bill for profit. You are selling yourself short at $85/hr shop time plus materials. Just something to think about. Keep up the good work. 👍🏼👍🏼

  • Much like the steel industry. I did rebar fabrication for a few years. The cutoffs we’d call crop. You always base your price on stock lengths. If you have the crop left over for another job, it’s technically already paid for. Some people will call this cheating by getting paid for the material twice when you use the crop in the next job (and you are getting paid twice for it), except you can charge the next customer for what you have rather than what you had to get, because you already have it. It’s all based on what you have on hand, and what you need to spend. You may never use those cutoffs for a long time. and you have to warehouse it, which costs money, until you do. Even the software industry works this way. If you use a big suite and you want changes made to suit your workflow, and the developers allow you to request that stuff for a fee, you pay for it, but they can offer that improvement to the next client free of charge. It’s just how it works.

  • Hobbyist here trying to decide how to price my stuff. Thanks for the advice man great vid. Only one suggestion, it took me a minute to figure out how you came up with the 144 in your math. I finally figured out because board foot 12x12x1=144 but I don’t think you said that and it could easily go over someone else’s head as it almost did mine. +1 sub

  • Great point on charging the entire material cost. When I first started my business, my early spreadsheets calculated board foot based on the project, but as you said I’d eat the ‘scrap’ cost. I do believe it made me think carefully on what projects you can make with your leftovers to optimize cost on other projects, but for a long time I had a few shelves of wood that I didn’t want to discard, but wouldn’t really have a reason to use. I guess that’s what cutting boards and coasters are for lol

  • This is a great article. As someone who lives in Phx, uses peterson lumber, builds furniture more as a hobby (two blocks north of your shop actually) … How long do you let the wood acclimate after we joint and plane for a tabletop between the months of May-oct when the heat is a factor, but also monsoon humidity. Is it just a few weeks or longer and do you consider that acclimation space and time already into your hourly amount?

  • My issue with a cost + materials price is as you said, if you are hand sanding vs having a 60k widebelt do it for you. In this model, the person hand sanding for 4 hours is going to charge more than the person running a widebelt for 30 minutes, even though that person made the 60k investment into the machine to do it for them. If you have a linear foot or square foot price you are rewarded for getting better/faster/more efficient rather than working yourself out of a job. And in this example you would charge them a square foot price based on the 10′ pieces rather than the actual square foot of the top.

  • Notice the caveat that must be held to when he adds…”If I’m busy”. There are only three aspects to the manufacturing biz. Price Time Quality And here’s the thing, THE CUSTOMER CAN ONLY CHOOSE TWO! They can have it fast and cheap….but the quality will not be museum worthy, because it was made cheap and fast. If they want top quality for “cheap” then it may need to wait until we are not BUSY and have no other real pressing work that makes good money. If they want it top quality and fast then they will need to PAY for overtime so the price will go up. TL;DR always remember the 2/3 rule. -✌🏼

  • So quick question, I am a hobbyist for the most part, but in the spring and summers I build Adirondack chairs, and full patio sets for people. I work alone, and have a good selection of tools, but if I were to charge $85/hour, yeah I would make a get profit, but my chairs that are red cedar run about 250.00 would be 6-800 dollars.so how do I price efficiently while still keeping costs down so that my product moves? It costs me roughly $90 in material. I work in my free time so it’s not my main income. Any ideas?

  • I live on Oahu, honolulu and search craigs list for Wood working tools every day. Ive been seeing more and more wood working shops folding here and selling off equipment . Its a tough business unless you have talent and are fair and consistent in your products and give the customer Exactly what they want for a fair price. 85 hr is very fair… and your work is phenomenal !!! keep going brother your on the right path.

  • Loved the article – very easy and explained well! In this example though, you went through calculating the BF with the known cost of the wood. Im assuming that is what you give the client as your quote, not as the final cost, correct. I’d think getting the exact cost from your lumberyard invoice and passing that onto the client in your own invoice is the way to go. Glad I found your website, I quickly subscribed! AZ native living in CA (looking for every way to get back lol)

  • So what’s your strategy for using the offcuts in future projects? How do you charge a client for materials another client has already been charged for? Your example left you with seven 48″ boards, which is enough to be useful in some larger projects. For example, let’s say the next day, you get a client who wants exactly the same thing but doesn’t care if you have butt joints. You could use the wood left over from the previous project. Assuming zero waste for the sake of the math, you’ve got 28 of the necessary board feet on hand, and you only need to buy one board for the job. So additional costs over what you already have on hand is only $78. If you use the leftovers and only charge the second customer for your new expenses, you’ve not double-charged anyone, but you’ve unfairly charged one customer. If you use the leftovers and charge the second customer for the offcuts, they’re still getting a lower price of ($315 instead of $550) because you didn’t have to buy as much excess, plus you’ve now charged twice for the same wood. If you alter your strategy and only charge each customer for what you use, you’re generally hosed because a lot of the waste you generate for projects isn’t usable. So how do you handle this?

  • Could you explain your hourly cost a bit more? Obviously it will differ from place to place, but where I’m from, $85 an hour seems like it would be a lot to charge for just a one-man shop. Given your model, its clear that amount covers overhead costs like lease payments, utilities and capital assets, but I would like to see a better breakdown of that so I can know what would be a good rate for me to charge in my area. Thanks!

  • How do break it to your customer you raise your hourly? I’m a bit confused how you decide the hourly other than how much you value your time and work. Also, you said that if a project is taking a long time because a woodworker is new they should charge less. So obviously there is a price you have in mind you would charge for a piece of furniture without pricing by the hour. Someone that charges $80 an hour and takes 8 hours to make something, versus $40 and takes 16 hours. That same piece of furniture will always be $640. Why not just charge $640 for that specific piece of furniture? Why even bother with hourly?

  • Took me a good decade to really get a grasp on pricing aye. In my line of work I generally put a really high hourly rate because I can guarantee there’s going to be complications I can’t account for, so jacking up the hourly rate allows a buffer for that. Also I seem to have a monopoly at the moment on a 200 km² area.

  • Great explanation and advice! $85/hr for labor works for now but will have to adjust with inflation. Decades ago we calculated labor by doubling material cost for rough carpentry, like decks and rustic pieces, and triple for fine work. So, the custom table here would likely start at $1800 for rustic. Am I close?

  • Nope! This is why there are a gazillion woodshops, and only about an eighth of them making money. You need labour cost, materials cost, mark up and profit to everything. (every screw, nail, piece of timber and drop of glue). If you are not competing it’s because someone is undercutting you on these. That’s why we have woodworking schools and apprenticeships so your work rises above the detritus undercharging just to get a paycheque. Never worry about the money, worry about your quality and the money will flow…

  • My pennn! Great use of KITH. Excellent breakdown and comments. And yeah, here in NorCal, Keenan was right… rent too damn high! I always get befuddled at materials cost and would love to get better at calculating BF quickly. It would be a great subject for article deep dive. Oh and BTW, last time I got walnut here was like $16/BF. RIDICULOUS! Makes me want to drive a truck to AZ and pick up a bunch.

  • Excellent job, really appreciate your content here and in your other posts. Charging a bit less here hourly as I am refining my craft. This is a fun gig, not my primary source of income. Am profiting and getting better with each project. Thanks for keeping it simple. Thank you so much for your time and effort, really appreciate you. God Bless.

  • You factored the glue up into your labour costs. Am I right to assume that you don’t factor in setting time at your hourly rate or is this included? For example, if you’re gluing up with a quick epoxy that takes maybe a few minutes vs a woodglue that needs to set up overnight, would you charge the extra hours for that overnight curing?

  • I like this method. It’s pretty much what I do. But I keep getting told I’m doing it wrong. My struggle comes from making sure I charge the right hourly rate. I can’t get $85 an hour (not yet at least 😜). As I build my skills I will increase that. I do need to get in the habit of charging for materials the way you do. I’ve been guilty of charging for the material used instead of what I have to buy. And making sure I charge replacement cost for materials that I salvaged. Great article. Thanks.

  • I have only done smaller projects and did them in batch. In that case, I charged a flat fee but knew that if I spent a complete day or two that I wanted to net a certain amount. I divided that amount by the number of items I needed to make at a reasonable price. Thanks for the clear and simple pricing breakdown!

  • Adding markup to the material should always be expected. The percentages depends on how much the market dictates. There is take off time, design time, admin time, that those cost are hard to track. If you always have material you have to buy but can not use, that is gravy and could be a future project that you could turn out. But there is storage cost. Finding a reasonable markup for material is the key, but in my eye a must.

  • Man…I was pumped to be lead to your articles by @cowdogcraftworks. All ready to binge through a couple of hours of solid content…lo and behold, 4 articles. Damn. Quality articles though. Just like your work. I’ve seen some in the business arrive at a cost by using an equation like $40/hr + materials then adding 40%. Would you mind sharing what makes you stick to a method such as your vs an alternative like the one I mentioned?

  • Really enjoying your website man! Keep up the good work 👊🏼 This is essentially the same method I use and much like Will Walker I too am terrible at estimating my time 😆 it’s a tricky honestly mostly because I typically build completely bespoke one of a kind items. But as you mention in the article – you’ll get it wrong a helluva lot before you finally get the hang of it!

  • I’ve just recently been able to start doing projects from rough dawn lumber. Found this article very helpful But I’ll also be perusal for you to put that article about board footage up. looking at an equation is different than actually understanding it and calculating what you need. Good luck in your YouTube ventures!

  • Wow! I’m way undercharging. I knew this. I just do it on the side as fun though. Most of my customers want that farmhouse style stuff so I use construction grade wood. Which is cheap but take a long time to to mill down and make useable. My latest project was a king size bed frame. Customer showed me a pic of what she wanted and it was listed for 2,000 dollars. I only charged her 300. As I was applying the third coat of poly after the second week of design and building I realized I totally lost money on this project. I think from here on out I’m gonna factor in my labor costs a more. Currently I take my full material costs plus 10 percent then double it and round up to the nearest 25,50,75,100 mark. Crap! I do free delivery too. Lol. And install!!! Thank you for your article and explanation on how a pro does it.

  • Just found this website and I love the articles. I’m getting into woodworking as a high schooler, and without a good paying job i can’t really save up for my tools very easily, the money just goes into car insurance and gas. I’ve saved up enough to get some basic tools like a table saw and router, and I have been selling cutting boards and smaller projects due to a lack of space for furniture. If I’m looking into selling work to get money to pay for more tools (mainly a planer) that would greatly increase my efficiency, should I dig into savings/loan from my parents to buy them and then price by the hour, or change my pricing so that I eventually make enough to buy tools for future projects? Might just be a question that only I can answer, but any input would help!!

  • Very informative. Thank You for showing and sharing that you do not have to minimize pricing to those bargain shoppers something that took time to craft and care for. Your delivering quality work to a customer that will appreciate what they are receiving. This gives me the motivation on why I love creating. Thank You

  • Paying yourself an hourly rate of 85 hour is treating yourself like an employee in your own business. You have to run it as an actual business. Many wood workers would be surprised how buddy time they spend working in the business instead of on the business. Now it’s great you make a profit doing this method, I hope 2 years later your not still doing it this way. Pricing is a difficult topic for most and there is many many ways to do it. Just be careful in the method you chose. There is no formula. Every piece is different.

  • This is awesome to find out that someone else does it like me. I do it this way just by trial and error and found a method, almost exactly as yours. Funny huh? I keep up to date price lists from my lumber yard, because I do work with different materials. Thanks for making articles! Looking forward to more!!!

  • Awesome for helping everyone win. I’ve estimated jobs from 1 off millwork to construction jobs upwards of 12 million dollars including all trade work. Your way will be profitable and work well, like you said👍👍 hell you don’t need me to say that. However you earned my sub and I look forward to seeing your awesome craftsmanship and articles!!! Thank you!!!

  • In reality if you have 60000 sander you shouldn’t shorten yourself on labour, charge as much as guy sanding that by hand, why should u be cheaper on labor just because you faster, you actually have more invested than the guy who will sand that top with palm sander for days,, so charge enough so your investment comes back to you before your machine dies 😉

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