Spray foam insulation is a popular and effective method for reducing air leaks in walls and ceilings. It is better than other types of insulation due to its ability to insulate and seal simultaneously. There are two types of spray foam: open and closed. Closed-cell foam is more expensive, less expandable, and has twice the R-value of open-cell insulation.
For good installation, it is essential to expose the full cavity of the foam. Another option is dense pack cellulose, which can be used in holes. Open cell foam insulation has a lower R value per inch and should not be used in below-grade or exterior wall cavities due to potential issues.
To install spray foam insulation in an existing wall, create small holes around one inch or less in diameter and inject the liquid spray. Spray the foam evenly between the studs and onto the backside of the exterior sheathing, allowing it to expand and fill all gaps. Allow the foam to dry before applying it to the wall.
In summary, spray foam insulation is a cost-effective and comfortable solution for reducing air leaks in walls and ceilings. It is important to follow the instructions provided by the kit and follow the proper procedures to ensure the best results.
📹 OPEN CELL FOAM INSULATION, roof and exterior walls
Application of 1/2 pound foam open cell to exterior walls. www.thesprayfoamjefe.com Air barrier and insulating material.
What are the negatives of open cell spray foam?
Open cell spray foam is suitable for above-grade applications but lacks vapor barrier capabilities and flood resistance. Its vapor barrier coatings can be added, but they may not be suitable for below-grade applications. Open cell has fewer application options than closed cell spray foam but is comparable to other insulation products. It must be installed by a professional, as DIY kits may save money but have a high likelihood of error. Despite these drawbacks, open cell is still a viable option for insulation.
What is the downside of using expanding foam?
Spray foam insulation requires professional installation to be effective and prevent uneven insulation, gaps, and moisture trapping, which can lead to mold growth. Proper installation and proper ventilation are crucial for effective moisture management. Improperly installed spray foam can trap moisture, creating an environment ripe for mold growth. Respiratory issues and off-gassing can also arise, especially during installation and curing. Some spray foams can off-gas volatile organic compounds, causing indoor air quality issues.
Proper installation and curing times, along with knowledge about off-gassing, can mitigate these risks. Hiring experienced professionals can help homeowners understand and address these potential issues.
Can you spray foam the exterior of a house?
It is possible to insulate existing exterior walls with injection foam without the necessity of removing the drywall. The procedure differs according to the type of exterior wall covering employed in the residence. The process entails working with the siding, drilling holes into the wall cavity, injecting foam, plugging the hole, and leaving the home with an improved appearance.
Can you put spray foam in existing walls?
Spray foam insulation is a popular choice for improving insulation in existing walls. It is installed using precise measurements to prevent excessive expansion. Excess foam can cause bubbling and cracks if installed with drywall. If drywall is not in place, it is crucial to trim excess foam for a snug fit between building materials. Spray foam insulation also improves air quality, reduces noise pollution, and reduces the need for expensive insulation materials.
Can spray foam be exposed to outside?
The optimal temperature range for the product is 60-90°F (15-32°C). It is imperative that the product is not exposed to temperatures exceeding 120°F or 240°F, as this may impair its functionality. It is inadvisable to expose cured foam to temperatures in excess of 240°F. In order to prevent discoloration and UV damage, it is essential to protect the product when it is used in an outdoor setting.
How long does spray foam last outside?
Spray foam insulation has a lifespan of 30-50 years, with closed-cell being more durable and lasting 30-50 years outdoors. Open-cell insulation, on the other hand, lasts 15-25 years due to moisture and sun damage. It typically takes 24 to 72 hours to dry, influenced by temperature, humidity, and foam type. Factors affecting the insulation’s lifespan include the environment, installation quality, and care. Proper installation, protection from moisture and sun, and regular checks are crucial for its longevity.
How to insulate exterior walls without removing drywall?
Insulating exterior walls can be done without removing the siding by cutting holes in the studs and spraying foam or cellulose into the holes. This process can be done by replacing the cutouts, filling the holes with wood filler, sanding smooth, and painting the siding.
Basement walls can be insulated using foam board, spray foam, blown-in, or spray foam insulation. For finished basements with sheetrock insulation, contractors use similar methods to retrofit exterior wall insulation installation. Holes are cut for insulation installation, then patched and painted over.
Additional insulation can be added to attics, under the roof, or loose fill insulation like fiberglass beads, cellulose, or rock wool. Loose fill insulation should be added between 7 to 12 inches, meeting the requirement for older homes.
Where not to use expanding foam?
Expansive foam should not be used near lightboxes, ceiling lights, or heating appliances as it can catch fire due to its flammable nature. It may also cause damage to the light itself if it cures around wiring. Some foams may claim to be usable in close contact with ceiling lights, but it is recommended to consult a professional for guidance.
Pre-existing conditions should not be used with expanding foam without a mask, as it contains isocyanates, a chemical that can cause serious breathing and skin-related issues. To avoid these risks, use breathable masks and protective eyewear. If you are at risk of serious side effects, find an alternative method of filling cavities.
When purchasing foam, choose the correct type, such as open and closed cell or high expansion and low expansion, as they behave differently. Open-cell foam is more effective and expands quicker than closed-cell foam, making it an alternative to installing new insulation.
What are the negatives of spray foam?
Spray foam insulation, typically made of polyurethane, is known for being one of the most airtight types of insulation. However, it can lead to mold problems, foul odors, improper chemical mixing, termite damage, and being too airtight. It should not be considered an air barrier when pursuing energy-efficient homes like Passive House or Net Zero Energy Ready buildings. Spray foam can seal small gaps and tight areas of home framing, but it is not the safest insulative material.
The negatives to using spray foam insulation for homes might outweigh the positives, so it is best to consider alternative materials. Home builders should consider the pros and cons of each insulation type to ensure the safety and energy efficiency of their homes.
Can expanding foam be used externally?
Expanding foam is a versatile material that can be used to fill gaps in buildings, ensuring insulation and moisture ingress standards. It can be used to fill gaps around walls’ edges, fill pipes’ holes, and improve window and door insulation. Insulation is crucial for homeowners, keeping buildings warm during winter and reducing energy bills. By filling gaps around these areas, expanding foam helps reduce heat loss and enhances overall insulation, making buildings more energy-efficient and comfortable for residents.
Where should you not use spray foam?
Spray foam insulation should not be applied directly to unvented crawl spaces or attics without proper moisture control measures in place. Without such measures, it can trap moisture, leading to mold growth, rot, or structural damage. It is also not recommended to apply spray foam insulation to HVAC equipment or combustion appliances, as the chemicals in the insulation can be flammable and pose a fire hazard if exposed to high temperatures.
Exterior applications of spray foam insulation require proper protection against sunlight, moisture, and physical damage. UV exposure can cause degradation of the insulation, reducing performance and appearance. Additionally, if the insulation is not adequately protected from moisture, it can absorb water, compromising its effectiveness. Proper exterior cladding or coatings are essential to shield spray foam insulation in these applications.
📹 I wish my builder would have said this about Spray Foam Insulation…
Knowledge is power. How much time have you spent learning about products for your new build? https://sprayjones.com/ Does …
The key to any good build isn’t in the upgraded cosmetics. It’s all behind the walls and ceilings. Stuff you can’t see. Most folks don’t understand that. They think the stone countertops, and 5K appliances are the real investment. It’s not in those changable finishes. That’s all glamour and awe. Its in the weatherproofing, electrical, plumbing, and structure itself. Without sound construction the rest is wasted money. Thanks for reminding us of that.
My wife and I designed and built our handicap accessible house just under 4000 sq ft 6 years ago. We did 90 percent ourselves it took us 2 years to build. We did our homework. We used fiberglass casement windows as we are in a windy area. Almet Stone coated metal roofing with plywood roof decking with gortex underlayment. We had an awesome foam installer who sprayed our house with closed cell foam underneath our roof decking and all exterior walls. Creating an airtight well insulated home. The closed cell foam added strength to our 2 x 6 and truss floor joist home. We used cases of liquid nail with nails and 3in deck screws to ensure strength and quality. We have forced air a/c and gas heating with a whole house air exchanger. Basement outerwalls are 10 in block fully poured and coated with fiberglass enforced tar, we added insulation using 4in x 4ft x 8ft ES foam and back filled with 2b Gravel with French Drains around the 24in footers. Bubblewrap underlayment for concrete floors. We installed Everlast solid vinyl siding to the exterior. We had plaster coating to all interior walls. After six years, not even one Crack in any of the walls or even a door that needed adjustment. Overkill, maybe, but no regrets for doing more than the minimum. We paid for two years of builder’s insurance with no regrets. Sound proof, energy efficient, low maintenance, and handicap accessible home, which took more time and cost more, but loving it every day. We still say we can’t believe this is our house.
I’ve watched 1000’s of article on stuff I am looking into for my new home! Basement ICF walls, SUPERIOR Walls, spray foam, metal joists, poured slab using ICF decking or steel decking, electrical smart panels, PEX plumbing, tile flooring, radiant floor heating systems, LED lighting, IoT for security systems, smart home wiring, steel buildings, bandonions, rock wool insulation, windows, doors, ODH(on demand heaters) solar panel system, battery backup and many more topics. Looking and perusal articles are free!!!!
Sadly, spray foam costs double or triple other options and in your vicinity you may have only one or two companies doing the application and these are relatively new firms because there are just no guys around who can honor warranty work – and the guys who are here are three weeks out and cancel on you the day of application. It’s so specialized and so expensive the commercial developer just can’t be bothered by it.
My father in law is a contractor. He wouldn’t even start a talk about doing an addition if we weren’t willing to spray foam. We recently built a large home that he oversaw. He wouldn’t let us use a builder unless they let us spray foam, use Marvin windows, and allow him to be project manager. Thankfully the builder was awesome to work with and allowed us to do anything we wanted.
I did spray foam under the roof decks of an ICF home. So far so good, but finding good spray foam contractors is REALLY tough… My first guy did a decent job, though a bit more messy than I was expecting. He was totally booked when it came time to spray the main roof deck so I went with a local contractor that was VERY new. I ended up troubleshooting his rig because it would not spray well. We got it working better after a tip change to the gun, but the final product looks very rough. I had them spray a bit more just to be sure that I got enough coverage and insulation, but it was disappointing to say the least. Shared your website with them in hopes that they improve for future customers…
Ok great info although the builder had to study for and pay for a license and they are building day in day out they choose to be a builder and I feel I give the builder my house plan they should know what’s best for the house that being built. If I need to do my home work and learn all the in’s and out’s of building then what’s the point of hiring out other then my time 🤷♂️
MattR gets a shoutout! MichaelSJ: what is the closed cell application standard that can be incorporated into a contract? Your articles always show such a smooth, even application of apparently properly prepared product and substrate with strong adhesion to adjoining wood members. So what standard details that quality? Need it in writing to avoid sun nightmare.
Hey Mike! Could you comment on these northern climate possible wall variations: 1) Exterior 2″ rigid directly installed onto 2″×4″ studs followed with 2″ spray 2lb closed cell foam application in cavity. 2) 2″×4″ osb exterior wall with 1″ 2lb closed foam followed by 2.5″ of .5lb open cell foam to gill the cavity.. Thanks!
We start breaking ground in September to build our barndo on a slab foundation in KY. We are using zip osb on roof and siding. I was doing some research on what type of spray foam to use against osb, we have decided to use open cell spray foam on roof deck and walls because it will be going directly on osb. Still deciding if we need to use foam board insulation under slab though. Your thoughts on this.
What a pathetic excuse. Contractors don’t have time to stay educated in current technology. A contractor has a responsibility, a requirement to stay current it’s part of the job. If the customer needs to be better educated in every aspect of the conversation of the property, why does the customer need the contractor? Just hire some day labor.