This guide provides a step-by-step guide on running Ethernet cables through walls. The process involves planning the cable route, cutting openings, drilling entry and exit holes, fishing and running the cable, terminating the cable ends, installing wall plates, testing the connection, and ensuring all necessary tools and materials are available.
The difficulty of running Ethernet cables through walls depends on the wall’s structure, with drywall being easier with the right tools and processes. Concrete/brick walls may be harder than dry woo. This guide aims to make the process as easy and efficient as possible by providing tips and advice on how to fish Ethernet cables through walls.
To begin, start at the distribution point and drill holes in the walls, ceiling, or floor, close to devices like TVs and gaming consoles. For an in-wall installation, it is usually best to start at the small hole in the top or sole plate and push towards the outlet opening. Run at least three cables to each wall location, and 2 can be used for locating a router anywhere with an extra port.
To run the cables through walls, turn off the electrical power, make outlet holes, run and hide the cables, install connectors (if needed), set up the wiring panel, and test fit the wires. In the attic, drill a hole in the header board and drop the cable inside the wall. Near the bottom of the wall, make a rectangular hole the size of a bracket and cut out the drywall with a drywall saw. Test fit the wires and ensure the cables are secure and organized.
📹 CAT6 CABLE RUN AND CAT6 WALL FISHING – HOW TO – QUICK & EASY!
Welcome back to The Ultimate Tech Hub. On today’s episode we are going to show you “How To Wire Drop 2 Cat6 Cables” using …
How do you run cables in solid walls?
To install cables on a wall, use clips or plastic trunking to route them along skirting boards and around door and window frames. For a neat finish, conceal them. In a solid wall, cut a channel in plaster and run the cable through an oval plastic conduit or top-hat capping. Run the cable vertically to a fitting in the wall, plan the route using a spirit level or plumb line, and check it with a cable detector. Wearing gloves and safety goggles, cut the channel 6mm wider than the conduit or capping, cutting away to the depth of the conduit and about 3mm.
Cut the plastic capping or conduit to length with a hacksaw and feed in the cable. Capping is fixed to the wall with masonry nails, conduit snaps into clips nailed to the wall, or can be held with masonry nails driven in each side. The cable will be held firm by the plaster when filled the channel.
Do I need a cat 5 or 6?
The choice of Ethernet cable depends on the frequency of internet use in your business. Cat6 is ideal for faster internet speeds and reducing crosstalk, while Cat5 is suitable for those who are satisfied with their current internet speeds and are cost-effective. As more companies use the cloud, Cat5 is suitable for those who have moved their servers or plan to do so in the future. Cat6 cables are typically thicker and more reliable, making them suitable for those with limited office space. Cat6 cables are typically thicker than Cat5 cables, making them suitable for those who need more space in their office.
How to discreetly run an Ethernet cable?
Concealing network cables is crucial to prevent damage and ensure their safety. There are various ways to conceal cables, including using baseboard concealers, running them through walls, using backbone cabling, horizontal cabling, attaching them to furniture backs, using a wrapping paper roll to bundle cables, tape them along wall corners, and using an area rug. Baseboard organizers can be used to hide cables as they run along the walls, and cables can be easily slipped through the concealers before attaching them to the baseboards.
It is important to check the cable length inside the baseboard concealers to ensure they reach both connection points. The durable plastic used in baseboard concealers also protects the cables. They come in different colors, such as brown and white, to match neutral tones of baseboards, adding to the concealing effect and making them less noticeable.
Can you run an Ethernet cable through the wall?
Pull string is a lightweight nylon rope used to pull cable into its installed position. It offers minimal resistance and can be easily tied-and-taped to the cable bundle. Fish tape is a long steel tape with a ring-shaped container that acts as a reel, providing flexibility and rigidity for guiding wire and cable through unseen pathways. However, it is often considered too floppy for residential work, especially compared to glow rods and flexible drill bits. Fish tapes are particularly useful for pulling wire and cable through conduit.
Glow rods are long fiberglass sticks used for pushing cable from one location to another. They glow in the dark, making them useful in low-light areas like ceilings and crawl spaces. They are mostly rigid for guiding the cable path but can be flexible for direction changes. While pull strings are generally used first, there is no rule stating that they must be used.
How do you run a cable through an interior wall?
This text provides instructions on how to add or extend an electrical circuit in drywall. It explains that the process is relatively easy if you have a basic understanding of electrical work. However, the challenge lies in fishing the wires through finished walls. During major remodeling projects, drywall can be removed and cables can be run through studs and ceiling cavities. However, in some cases, removing drywall is not practical or desirable and is often messy and expensive.
Despite this, it is possible to add or extend circuits in finished walls without destroying the walls or putting oneself through an enormous ordeal. This process is also used when old wiring is replaced with new cable during system upgrades. The process is similar to adding or extending circuits in unfinished basements or attics.
How do I connect my computer to Ethernet through the wall?
To install an Ethernet outlet in your home, trace the outlet’s mounting bracket on the wall, cut out the drywall with a utility knife, and run an Ethernet cable from your Internet equipment to the new jack. Thread the wires into a keystone connector and attach it to the jack’s wall plate. This process is relatively easy and can save you money if you have the right tools and know-how.
First, identify a suitable spot for the jack, considering the location of your networking hardware and the room layout. Trace and cut out a hole for the wall plate to mount the jack. Then, run the Ethernet cable between the outlet and your modem and wire the cable to a special connector designed to fit inside the jack.
In summary, installing an Ethernet outlet is a simple process that can save you money and ensure a stable internet connection.
Is there such a thing as wireless Ethernet?
A wireless Ethernet adapter is a device that facilitates the wireless connection of a client workstation to an access point, wireless gateway, or bridge.
How can I get Ethernet in my room without Ethernet?
MoCA Adapters are a type of Ethernet adapter that use existing coaxial cables in a home to create a wired connection. They are ideal for situations where Ethernet cables are not feasible, but their performance may vary depending on the quality of the cables. To set up an Ethernet connection, simply plug in the cable and let the devices automatically configure themselves. This process is similar to powerline adapters but requires more setup time.
How can I get Ethernet in a room without a port?
Powerline adapters use your home’s electrical wiring to transmit internet signals, making them an easy solution when Ethernet cables aren’t feasible. They plug into outlets and send data over your home’s wiring. However, they don’t always perform as well as direct Ethernet connections. When selecting and installing powerline adapters, choose a kit that meets your speed requirements and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. MoCA adapters use coaxial cables in your home for a wired internet connection.
What is Ethernet bridging?
Ethernet bridging is a process where an ethernet interface is combined with one or more virtual TAP interfaces, creating a single bridge interface. This software switch connects multiple ethernet interfaces on a single machine, sharing a single IP subnet. By bridging a physical ethernet NIC with an OpenVPN-driven TAP interface at two separate locations, both networks can be logically merged. An example of configuring an OpenVPN server-side ethernet bridge is provided, allowing multiple clients to connect and assigning each client’s TAP interface an IP address part of the server’s LAN.
How do I get Ethernet without a port on my wall?
In order to establish a wired Ethernet connection, it is necessary to utilise a USB-A or USB-C port on the laptop in conjunction with a USB to gigabit Ethernet adapter. The adapter should then be connected to the laptop’s USB port, and a Cat5e/6 Ethernet patch cable should be used to link the RJ45 end to the network.
📹 How i Installed Network Sockets in an Old House | No More Wifi
In this video, I’ll show you how to install network sockets in an old house so that you no longer have to use wifi. This is a great …
An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great article!
Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don’t have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4’s. Just cut a piece of 1/2″ plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.
A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.
This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.
Great article for the basics…but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the ‘attic floor’ or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?
Our viewers requested this article so we hope you enjoy it! This is “How to Wire Drop Cat6 cables using the Old School Method” that works great! This Ethernet wire drop installation is by far the Best and Cheapest method to drop Cat6 or Cat5e wires into any room! This wire drop cost about $100 dollars in supplies. Any questions or suggestions feel free to comment below. Thank you for perusal!
I am about to do this project again but with CAT 8 Ethernet (so overkill (but why not)) With my new house. I am going to centralize cables on a small wall mounted server rack in my garage which already has a dehumidifier built in. Loved your wall plate idea, I might borrow that idea. Last time I tore up way to much dry wall installing stud attached wall boxes that I screwed in the wall plates in.
I didn’t climb up into my attic. Instead, I ran the cables up from the basement. It seems a lot easier than to use go through all that insulation, not to mention the heat. I did cut a rectangular hole in the wall to put in a old work box. It seemed much easier than using molys to hold the wall plate like you did. And I can open it up and put a larger wall plate if I need to add a coax run.
Extra Safety Tip – A tube of Tub and Tile Sealer (DAP) can meet and exceed some fire code regs buy creating a air tight seal around the faceplate. It bonds well to the plastic and the drywall. Using it like a gasket at the wall plate and the hole in the ceiling. You will want to seal it to prevent not only air movement, but bug infestation as well.
Most important thing that isn’t repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1″ mounting bases, a couple bags of 4″ max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8×1.5″ wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down. A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.
I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah… pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops… But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks 🙂
Hi; good article! I do this stuff here and there, and I picked up on some pointers that will help me the next time I do this type of work! I would add that, too, you ought to label/mark EACH wire individually (using a Sharpie magic marker works nicely) – each wire AT BOTH ENDS with a number representing THAT wire, e.g., “1” at both ends of wire number “1”, and “2” at both ends of wire number “2” – so that you KNOW at both ends, which wire of the bundle (in your article’s case – which wire of the two that you pulled) – you are working with/on. Imagine that you DON’T label each wire – and, as in your article’s example – you pull two wires but only want to – for whatever reason – terminate/use ONLY one of the two wires. Well, if you don’t label them, then your process is – A) pull wires to the respective termination ends. B) terminate the single wire that you DO need at one end, and now, C) go to the other end – and terminate the other wire, as well. WELL – they are the same wire type – they look identical – which of the two (sometimes we have to pull 4, 8, 12 wires in that bundle!) – which of the two wires do you now terminate? If you had labeled them, individually before fishing them through the ceiling and walls, then you would know with confidence which wire end corresponds to the wire end that you terminated on the other end of it. If you didn’t/don’t do this – then, as I learned the hard way, I either can “sound” the wire, or hope to get lucky with the coin toss and terminate one of the wires – and hope that I terminated the right one – because if I didn’t, I get to also now terminate the OTHER wire – and clip off the mis-terminated jack from that other wire.
Dont cheap out on keystone jacks. I worked on a building where computers and phones were going offline and cutting out randomly. Everyone thought it was a switch issue or driver issue but nope. Turns out the keystone jacks pins were bent from being plugged into for so long, they couldnt make firm enough contact. Replacing them fixed it. Remember you get what you pay for.
So I did something like this…but just bought a long ass cable and punched two holes, connected it to my router then to my PS5. Crude but effective. Got a port cover for both the exits. Has like a rubber gasket I guess you can call it. Kinda looks like a biscuit for a bow that the cables come out of the wall through. One day I’ll do it professionally. But til then…
They make Jack’s In all sorts of colors, as a pro I like black jacks, they look good in any plate, sometimes the plate and Jack can be a shade off, and it looks tacky. Edit: also different brands Jack’s have different color patterns, but they all have a color map stuck to them, just make sure to punch them down “B pattern” on both sides. Mod plugs fail, put jacks on both sides, as a bonus you won’t have to buy the crimper tool.
There are a ton of things wrong with this. You should always use a mud ring/mpls. It will give you more space to reach into the wall and find the cables, also taper the end of the cable so it doesn’t snag on anything that might be in the wall. This article also assumes there is no insulation in the wall in which case the string with a bolt won’t work. I use a small fish tape that I got for around $20. That being said I do still carry a bolt with washers and line on it.
The problem I have run into is the “Fire Blocks” between the studs. Some are smaller than the wall studs, which makes it easy to get the wires down the wall. But, when they are the same size, it not a fun or enjoyable to drill through them. Or, need to move the wall plates to a different location which changes everything.
In Australia, data installation is a trade in itself. Electricians can do it but it’s not usually their main focus. Its a registred trade in Australia and DIY is strictly forbidden and infact punishible with a $13,200 maximum fine if you are not registered to do it. On top of being registered to do cabling, you must be endorsed in structured cabling to install data cabling specifically in commercial premises. Our electrical is also a licensed trade and is even more illegal to DIY. Weird thing is, you can buy all electrical and data materials from standard retails hardware etc. without needing such proof of qualification. Being an electrician does not automatically allow you to install network cabling – you still have to get registered in data. The registration covers data, coax, AV. If you want to install CCTV and alarms….thats another licence again of which you require cabler regoistration to get the licence for security. Australia is a very heavily regulated country when it comes to trade work. Plumbing, gas, electrical data, security – non are allowed DIY. Some plumbing is allowed – such as tap fitting. These laws are for ALL situations…commercial and domestic.
I enjoy perusal these types of articles. I would love to run ethernet in my home. I’m going to have to run a direct line to the ONT FIOS unit if I want to increase my speed. I’ll do it then. I’ll probably hire someone to do it. Not that I couldn’t do it myself, but the older I get I’ve come to realize what is my time worth to me. A professional could do it in less than half the time it would take me. Maybe if I was 10 years younger.
Those push jacks are awful. You can get jacks that you plug rj45s on the back that are more reliable. Could even get 50ft cables so you don’t even need to do the connector work, although more expensive than adding connectors yourself. I love how wires magically pull through the first time…are you sure that wasn’t the 2nd or 3rd take, lol. Why not run coax too?
Great article! What if I need to do this kind of work up in the attic with drilling and feeding cable, but my internet comes in through the basement? There is a 2 x 4 to drill though in the attic to feed cable between the wall like in this article, but is there going to be another hole I need to drill to feed cable from the first floor to the basement?
I never mount the wall plate directly on the wall. I use a mounting ring, which clips onto the drywall. Also, plugs should not be put on solid cable. They’re intended for patch cords, which are stranded wire. Initially, all plugs were for stranded, but versions for solid came out only because so many people insisted on doing things the wrong way. Solid wire should always terminate on keystone jacks. Also, you mentioned matching colours. In businesses, outlets are often colour coded according to use, so you might find a white and blue jack on the same wall plate.
Tip of the day. Find your local electrical supplier that sells C6 cable. Mine is Greybar electric. Call and ask for the “will-call” desk and ask if they have any CAT6 remnants. 1000′ boxes of cable get damaged so they open them up and salvage what they can and sell at a deep discount. A must have tool is a set of glow rods. Order a cheap set from Amazon. This tool does not care about insulation and will penetrate easily down through the wall. Throw your heavy bolt away. As some have commented you do not use RJ45’s on solid strand copper. You will need a CAT6 patch panel and a punch tool for installation. These 2 items will set you back about 50 bucks for both on Amazon. Always use drywall remodel brackets for the jack plate cut in. Last thing. If your arsenal of tools is a box cutter, a hammer, and 2 screwdrivers sitting on a shelf in your garage and you are going to get your buddy’s cordless drill. Don’t try this. you will end up breaking things in your house. Good luck out there.
Moved into a House built in 74 last year. Haven’t got to it yet but I plan to place a wall mounted 12U server rack in the closet of the room we made the Office. but Sadly while I know how to do things like line drops my weight makes me hesitant to DIY so I will either have to conscript the step son to do the attic/Crawl space work or pay someone to come out for it. I am hesitant to call someone out since the guy Comcast sent out did a half A** job of it by just drilling through the floor to run the cables instead of running them in the wall like they should be.
I know this article is late and you probably won’t reply but I’m a complete newbie to this. Basically when we got our house built we did get cables installed in every room but it was just the TV cable unfortunately so I’ll have to rewire the cat-6 into my room. I just wanted to ask that if I directly just plug my the cat 6 cable into my modem which then goes to my room as a wall jack plug where I’ll plug in another ethernet cable to connect to my computer. Do I necessarily have to plug the cable into a router and then into a modem for it work or my previous mentioned method will work just fine? If somebody has information, please let me know. It’ll be very appreciated
Question: I bought Cat 5-6 Wall plate that has the front side female opening. The backside also has the same female cat 5 connector(i guess so that you can just plug a patch cable and run to the other wall jack) If I use a standard (already terminated) Cat 5 cable will the wiring need reversed at some point? Hope that was not confusing.
No way in hell that this is real, you are trying to say you just fed that cat 5 down that wall no problem and it was right next to your hole… You know how many times i’ve fed wire down a wall and found it inside a 1 inch wide hole, in… what was that… about 3 seconds? Not once, ever. There is no way. First off, you must have some dainty fingers to be fitting in that hole and being able to fish around with apparent ease, and second you must have the worlds most debris free wall, no insulation, no wiring, no coke cans… even with fish sticks you will not get a wire to feed that straight and easy down a wall. I call bs.
Be mindful you can try do this yourself. However if you are not a licensed installer, you will void all insurance on your property. There are strict guidelines along electrical, gas lines and much more. Would not do this on your own. Get a professional licensed installer. There is about a 500 page book with the rules and regulations cross industries. Don’t ruin your home for a 15min article or void your house insurance
I install data cables professionally. I definitely would have used plenum instead of riser. Used a MPLS or mud ring for the drop and NEVER pre cut cables just incase you need more length than you already cut. Being as you were in the attic already I definitely used some conduit to connect your MDU to the attic so you just have to push the cables down and not use the string trick. And you ALWAYS have to keep some twist in your cable when terminating it on a jack so you don’t have any loss.
Some questions and wishing to Keep It Simple Stuff (KISS). 1. Determine the number of drops (+1) and cut your cables (after determining length(floor-ceilingx2+run length))? 2. Would it be OK (or wise) to use existing coax runs to add the cable drops to? 3. If doing question 2, make sure you add space on wall plate for coax drop. Comment I bought some Dog eared fence boards to lay down (3 wide) over the rafters (Raptors) to make a path down the center line of the attic.
Hey I really need help please! My room is across the house from the router, so I get bad wireless connections… I have an ethernet port in my room but when I plug a port in and then into my computer, nothing happens. I don’t know where any extra cords go.. In the closet with our router and modem, there are a bunch of extra cords with words saying “Master BR” and BR (bedroom) 3, 2, and so on… one of the white cords is called “Main Line” or something like that, and thats the only one thats plugged in. If you need articles or pictures I don’t mind emailing you or whatever, but if you could help I would appreciate it so much! Thanks.
Thanks fur your great article on Cat5/6 cable and faceplate routing. I also do this many times so I’d like to highlight some questions that your viewers may ask. 1. How do you make sure the faceplate is vertically aligned with the attic drilled hole that feeds the network cable? I either use a signal injector and radio receiver to trace the wire. Or I drill a small pilot hole at the location of the attic network cable entry. Then I drop a plumb line to vertically align the attic network cable entry into the wall. Then I patch this smell hole I used for the top of the plumbline. 2. Using a network cable checker. Maybe you can introduce the network cable checker and do it in another article. 3. Sometimes the RJ-45 and CAT wires do not properly run to the end of the connector to get a good crimp. The new RG-45 connectors allow a pass through of individual wires, 8 of them, to exit out of the connector that will guarantee crimping. But this needs a precise wire cutters to closely cut off the excess wires. Thanks again for your article.
Hi there. I apologize in advance if this is covered in the article and I missed it, or in the comments, but I was curious about the network panel. I’m referring to the big white cabinet that is encased in the wall. For some reason, googling these terms doesn’t give me anything remotely close to this. Is this how it’s called? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Please, please, please don’t use this method. Use an inexpensive post-construction low-voltage box. This allow you to remove the faceplate without risking messing up the faceplate screw holes, it allows better long term upgradability and it’s just more professional. I would also recommend a larger hole in the top plate for future expansion.
Must be a dangerous job when running cable, while crawling over raptors… Hats off to you..! There are many situations where you cannot run cables, so I suggest you look in to Mesh APs, so long as your devices support wifi… One AP is connected via Ethernet cable (Wired node), while the other APs (Mesh nodes) and power by an adapter in a location that needs improved coverage. The Mesh AP will wireless back-haul via 5ghz and complete the connection… This will provide extended range, with adding cable…
I would have put in an old construction single gang box instead of drywall anchors to hold the face plate. It wouldn’t have taken any longer and would only cost about $2 more. I would have also put some Great Stuff foam in the attic drop to seal off the hole or holes to all the other drops to prevent insects and moisture from finding their way inside the wall. Which is also a little added security when walking in the attic and accidently get caught in some wire causing a potential wire-pull damage.
Well done #UltimateTechHub Gread article, great footage and very encouraging to Newbies. I’m in Western Australia so our roofs get to 140F in summer. Our houses are all Double Brick with an air gap, so its easy to drop Cat 6. Suggestion for a article: 568A Vs 568B – Why one over the other. Also distances between Power cables and Data cables. Keep up the excellent work. P.S. Ive long ago wired my house for Cat 6 and Audio
Pro tip – spend the $1 on the low voltage plate so the plates actually sit flush against the wall, and add in foam sheet if you want to seal it. — Get some conduit and use that in the attic to prevent it from being chewed if that ever becomes a problem. — leave a 2x long run of string to each drop to pull more cables to the same ports later on — an exacto knife is a lot better at cutting sheetrock than these sheetrock knives… If you don’t have a vacuum tape a piece of paper to the wall under the cut, fold it in half and then add corners so it can catch the debris / dust. — put the boots on first, and use the cut sheathing to straighten the wires…. etc.. etc.. etc… a lot I saw in here I wouldn’t do.
J CONSTITUTION 4-TVs AND ANALOG SECURITY CAMERA AND MONTOR AND MONITOR 3- TVs AND WIRELESS SECURITY CAMERA I AM TRYING TO KEEP MY TVs AND CAMERAS I AM THINKING OF A 3-WAYS CONNECTOR AND CABLE I AM NOT SURE WHAT KIND OF CABLES AND DVR OR NVR NOT FOR SHURE PLEASE HELP ME RECORDING AND MONITOR TOGETHER IN ONE ROOM
People watch a youtube article about fishing to learn how to deal with difficulties like finding the wire on the other end. So when you make this whole article and are able to reach your pinkie through a half inch hole and miraculously find the wire, it sort of makes the whole article miss the point on the challenges most people have.
Can I send you an email to discuss my unique situation / needs and get your valued input? I do not wish to post it here, but I need feedback tremendously. Most humbled appreciation. My first time seeing your articles. I am tied to many computer tech specialists around the world. BUT NONE ARE NETWORK SPECIALISTS. I AM SETTING UP HOME NOW AND OFFICE. JUST MOVED IN THIS HOME. SORRY, I AM NOT YELLING, MY VISION IS BAD.
For Pros or multiple drops… a tool called Magnespot helps locate the exact spot to drill from the attic. For only a couple drops, grab a long 1/4 drill bit and drill up thru the ceiling at the drop point. You can see the bit in the attic. A little spackle hides the tiny hole. No guessing. Also, using old work low voltage brackets let’s you cut a bigger hole and is a more secure attachment point for the wall plate. $2 at home depot.
I’m a professional low voltage wiring specialist. I’d only run two cables if needed. If you think you’re going to need another, by all means run two. If not electrical tape a nylon string to the wire about 6″ from the end and leave it tied off to a rafter, in case you want to pull another wire down, later.
I just have no clue where to start. We’ve got ATT Fiber Internet 300, the signal is strong the closer you are to the modem. However, the signal drops strength if we are in the bedroom with the door half closed. I’m looking to upgrade the coaxial spots all through out the home we just bought with CAT 6, but my idea is to have a central location for everything network related. Where did you start ?
Exactly what running cables is like in a nutshell. With different job sites require different methods of feeding cables into walls for a wall outlet. Sometimes if theres no choice, theres always ducting. Also it’s always good practice to have the right tool for the right job. Makes the work soo much easier. But if your tools are limited, that’s where experience comes into play. Really enjoyed perusal this article. 🤙🏼Techy life!
Pretty good article, but please never use the “passthru” type connectors. They are terrible and can short out inside your network switch. Also, you should only have 1 network switch, because now, everything on a switch after a switch has to share the speed of a single port. It will work the way you did it, but there are better ways. Also i would use a retro box or ring for the wall plate. It will be more solid and give a little room to fine tune your wall plate.
Bro, I already know you’re an amature at this. No disrespect intending for you either. Let me give you at least two pointers at this… You can always use a wall mudding to trace out your drywall cut and cut along the line. The wall mudding is for low voltage wiring plate cover, and you wont need any wall anchors to mount you wall plate together. Second… The way you tire your pull string into your Cat6 cable… Don’t do it the way you did anymore. 12:30… You could have ripped your pull string right off the hole sleeve if that cable was caught through it before your pull string did. I do this professionally and I’ve made that rookie mistake myself. Always loop a pull string around your cable and tape it up all the way to the front of the cable. Create a pointy end at your pull so it can curve around your pull and come out head first. If your walls have insulation to the panel then you need the pull rod for sure. Other than that good job.
Is all home wiring this amateur? Where are the ladder racks? They are easy to install and keep your cabling neat. Also, you don’t need 2, except to prevent the asspain of running another if the first fails. If that happens, use the failed cable to pull the new cable. Homeowners dont need more than CAT5 unless they are connected to a 1G port. Colors on the Jack depend on which standard you are using.
If you ever need to replace that cable, you’ll have to re-chase that area, so a super easy solution is to put a plastic pipe or box in the chase and feed the cables through it. That way, after you’ve repaired the chase, if you ever need to replace those cables you can attach the new ethernet cable to the old one and simply pull it through, saving you from having to rechase the wall in the future.
A few things I would consider: – Use the highest spec Ethernet cable you can afford now, it will save you from having to replace a cheaper one when it will no longer be able to keep up with the evolving standards – Use cable conduits whenever possible – Use cable rated for in-wall installation. Abrasion and fire resistant, zero smoke, zero halon etc. It might save you & your family – Avoid routing the cable where it could get in contact with water. Water and electricity (even low voltage) are not good bed fellows – Install 1-2 extra cables on the same route, even if not required or connected for now, you’ll thank yourself later – Be careful with the bend radius, do NOT bend the Ethernet cables in sharp 90 degrees (or more) corners, make them as round as possible, at least a few centimeters radius. At the frequencies these cables operate with, sharp bends will affect the EM waves and will unnecessarily degrade your signal – Lay the cables in a “hub & spoke” pattern (i.e. point to point connections from your router or switch to wherever your to-be-connected devices are), do NOT think you can “daisy-chain” them – For anything more complicated than just a few connections, consider installing an Ethernet patch panel, it will make your life easier – Like somebody else wrote, try to keep Ethernet cables separate from power lines. Consider PoE as an alternative for low power devices (e.g. cameras, routers, switches etc.) – Absolutely test them (even with the cheap 10 pounds tester) before completing the installation & wall repair.
Since I usually live in single story homes, I like to run a single cable from the modem to a decent switch or small rack in a central coat closet,. I then put an appropriate diameter piece of conduit with brush grommets, through the ceiling in the closet into the attic for the ethernet cable runs to pass through. It takes much longer doing it that way but for me it’s worth the extra time and effort. I try to plan ahead so I left pull lines going to the boxes so I could more easily add more later if need be. I luckily have 8 PoE ports powering mesh wifi drops with ethernet backhaul around the house mounted to the ceiling in bedrooms, living room, and my shop in the garage. Along with a few 10gig fiber runs to the office and entertainment center and at least 1 Eth run to each room. Took a while but everything is hidden and tidy. Can always add a sub switch in a room, if needed later, but having everything in the walls already makes that a trivial adjustment. Good article with some decent solutions for older homes and multi level dwellings.
Avoid blow-out when drilling through the walls by reverting to drill from hammer action before drilling through. Avoid blowing the plaster from around the back-box outline by drilling further in from the outer square or initially use a smaller bit for better results. Score around the inner square with something sharp!
Good article as it shows how easy it is. I would recommend you install shielded cable, I replaced all my old CAT5e cable with shielded CAT6 (specifically S/FTP) and found my network speeds improved by a noticeable percentage. I ran a cable up into my loft, connected it to a gigabit switch (industrial grade rated for high temperature operation) and then ran cables down into each bedroom.
I totally get why you didn’t cover it because it’s overkill for most.. but a much better way of doing this is run ALL the CAT cable back to a central point and install a patch bay and network switch. Then you can have point to point network anywhere or just stick it all into the switch and have everything connected to everything.
I’d approach it in 3 ways. 1. Can I use mesh/powerline? 2. use the fastest cable you can and always run an extra in case someone chews through it. 3. I’d ideally run a patch panel into the loft so you can then patch to other rooms from the loft if needed. Really nice article! If you do this a lot I’d have a push tool as it snips the ends for you.
Not a bad article. One thing to keep in mind is the length of the cable run. The spec normally says 100m max. I always run 90m max from sockets end to end, allowing 10m max for both your patch leads, then you’re ok. I’m not sure if your cable tester just do a continuity test or if it can test cable lengths. Most cases, most runs should easily get under 100m unless you are running to a out house. Otherwise, good article.
Great content – one piece of advice from me, never run just 1 cable. Always 2. The back box isn’t any bigger, the effort is pretty much the same, yes the cable cost is more but that’s negligible for the effort, but crucially if one of those cables is damaged, you’ll be thankful you ran the other. Where you will have one device plug in, there’s generally a good chance there’ll be 2. Eg tv + media box, desktop computer + printer etc
Ethernet cables can be used for different applications, for example a TV connection, a phone connection or a PC connection. The connector on the router will be different according to the intended application at the other end of the cable. Since that initial designed application can change, plan to install a patch panel. I would prefer to put conduit into the chased out website for future development or to anticipate future accidents – wife hanging pictures and putting a nail through the ethernet cable.
I’ve run ethernet cables and also used homeplugs, which use existing electrical cables to send the signal. Ethernet cables are more reliable but when homeplugs work they are so easy to install. Also I’d avoid Cat7 cables if you need to make connections to the back of the sockets – the cores are much thinner than Cat6. I used ‘burial standard’ Cat6A shielded cable – it was the best option for speeds and ‘connectability’. Although it’s quite thick so slightly bigger holes needed for feeding it through. Cat6A allows up to 10Gb/sec with no loss of speed up to 100m of cable. Should be future-proof and allow lengthy runs in a large house. Thanks for the article.
CAT6a CAN carry higher speeds, for example if you were to kit out your house for 2.5Gb networking. CAT5e & CAT6a both more than capable of full Gigabit speeds. We tend to run CAT6a anyway nowadays as the cost increase on the cable reels is minimal at the scale we do this. CAT6a is also shielded and has more twists per foot which helps mitigate interference and cross-talk between the wire pairs. Love your articles as always, gives us DIY-ers confidence to do it ourselves!
I’ve never been so thankful for drywall…lol I did this in my house but was lucky to be able to run it from a closet upstairs in my office that fed down to the ceiling of the basement then follow plumbing back up to the main floor. A second line went up to the attic and connected to a switch that ran to all devices like a Roku in both bedrooms. Took me a couple of hours with almost no mess to repair. It is so much better than having to count on Wifi (and much more secure)
I used to install many home network systems with cables going back to an AV/IT rack. However, many homeowners weren’t installed in using it unless for static hard-wired devices such as smart TVs, printers or NASs. Even laptops they always preferred to use wi-fi. Equally, I’ve had clients who insist on WAPs that can handle their incoming bandwidth. I.e, if they’re paying for 300MBs they want that through their wi-fi
One thing that appears to have been overlooked is the mention of bringing back all cables to a central point near the router so that you either a) connect the ports direct to the router if the number of sockets are =< the number of ports on the router (which in that case the socket next to the router should be a 4 gang to act as a patch panel), or if the number of sockets is > the number of ports that a switch will need to be fitted. This article is really more about how to install sockets and chase walls out than how to actually network the house.
If your going to do all that effort as opposed to Ethernet over mains, I would bring all the cat 6 ports back to a patch panel in a cupboard somewhere and use an ethernet switch. Remember cat 5/6 can also be used for phones & other low voltage signals, so if you have a main BT socket you can run that back to your patch panel then have the phone in whichever room you wish. also get a proper punch down tool. Cuts the cables as you install them into the socket / patch panel. And just to be clear NEVER JOIN THE CAT 5 CABLES WITH BLOCKS / WIRE NUTS / WIRE CONNECTORS. The number of times I’ve had to deal with structured cabling installed by electricians who think because it has an electrical connection it is fine…
Perhaps you did, but it’s not clear in the article. But you should have used conduit pipe in the space you made for the chase to run the cable through. It means that if ever you need to change the cable (For example if you wanted to change Cat6 to a new standard) you can just pull the cable through. You’ve made it a tougher job for yourself just sticking the cable into the wall with filler.
Query for you- do you have to use the same cable for the plug and terminals? I have an outside cat 6 cable that is wired into poe switch and runs through the wall and router. I wanted to use a plug and sure it is wired correctly. So basically camera to plug and then plugging in ethernet lead from router to plug inside house. Could not get it work at all. Only by removing the plug and directly from switch to camera will it work. Or is it using the poe switch? Thanks and love the articles
In older houses like this that have solid brick walls, if they still have the original plaster on the walls, you’ll usually find that you can dig quite deep directly into the inner corners of the room and a single cable will fit there, sometimes there is space for 2. This also means you can route the cable along the ceiling edge, and down the inner of a wall leaving you with minimal chasing out. It’s not the best way to do it, but sometimes it does help things along.
Theory is spot on but the downside is if your going to that effort the internet access point should have been relocated to somewhere more useable and a plan for the rest of the house should have been made. In the first instance you say all the walls are solid so your Wi-Fi is going to struggle. I recently did my whole house I put a server cabinate in my garage and had my access point relocated then I ran all the cables to one place and into a 24 port managed switch. It means I don’t need to rip half the house up later down the line because I don’t need any more expansion. Could also run all CCTV, NAS whole heap of items
I don’t know why this isn’t standard in new builds. I want to do this to my house though as a new build reluctant to damage new walls. Hoping there is some way I can feed the cable through existing pipes either electrical or coaxial. I could go around the house though I would like to keep wires hidden.
I like your articles, very practical. I would recommend having both wired and wifi in your home if you can. I would recommend a wifi mesh system, which will give you the effect of a single WiFi throughout your home. This will give you good WiFi speeds too even without a wired network. If you have cabled network in your house then even better as you can get a Mesh system that supports “Backhaul” as the Mesh devices will offer full speed WiFi and route the traffic down the wired network rather than across the wifi mesh. The latest Mesh systems use WiFi 6E, which lets them transmit traffic through the mesh even faster than your wired network. Other advantages would be if you are going Smart Home and IOT things and getting a Mesh system that support that.
Would it not make more sense, if you have to chase the wall to run conduit so you have a nice easy route incase you need to run anything else? Also I noticed you ran the cables separately to the same location, wouldn’t it make more sense to have 2 runs and tape them together? Basically running both cables in one run
Another great article. A general comment worth noting that data cables should be kept a minimum of 50mm away from mains cables. Induced noise can effect data transfer performance. The ethernet cable connection tool has several names; IDC, Krone Punch Down Tool, Punch Down Tool – and probably many others
That’s messy drilling due to hammer action of the drill. After the small pilot drill hole work on the exit side but do not use hammer action, you won’t need the hammer action. The entry hole will now be clean and the exit hole will be a cleaner exit. When breaking out of the exit with the bigger drill hole it will break out in the exit box area and will not be seen. Always use trunking in your chase because it provides an easy cable pull which prevents snagging. Snagging twists inflicted upon a solid core cable can break one of the 8 twisted pair internal wires so you don’t want that! You can also use Toupret filla along the chased out wall and you won’t suffer from the usual shrinkage cracks or filler sagging. Try to avoid sharp bends (and heavy electrical noise/motors in industry). because it reduces the signal quality of the wire. When you are finished you can’t beat a good cable connection and it will last you 20 years+.
Tbh I’d go for a at least Cat 6 if you’re doing this, but i’d put in Cat 7. Cat 5e is well on its way out and slow asf compared to what you can get with Cat 7 and Cat 8, and thats before you start touching fibre. Cat 7 really isnt that much more if you’re buying a reel of it and by putting Cat 7 in means it will last way longer before its needs to be replaced and you wont have any bottle necks if you have a lot of people using the internet in the house
I’ve run weatherproof Cat 7 ethernet cables from my virgin hub via a ethernet switch to the outside, up to our bedroom and around the side of the house to our sons room. Another switch box means his Xbox and laptop aren’t reliant on iffy Wifi that far from the hub (it was actually non existent) and a third is in our room. Our TV boxes use ethernet which means we have a good signal where we need it most. It also means that if the WiFi dies we still have the telly and laptops. However with the advent of mesh networks I’ve gone one step further. I’ve installed three eero mesh pods so far with two being backhauled and I’m waiting for a fourth which will also be wired. This will completely cover our house in WiFi as three of the four pods are hard wired. My recommendation is to disable the WiFi on your ISP router and put it in modem mode. That stops any signal clashes and now we have every device that has an ethernet socket hardwired and all the devices such as our phones, Hive thermostat and echo devices that are wifi only have a full strong signal. Then there’s the speed issue. We now have the proper speed from our ISP that we pay for whether wired or wireless. I like what you did and I find it fascinating but in reality it’s either a job for when a property is empty and being refurbished or if you have a very understanding partner. I have neither 😂
You should have mentioned the type of cable. You should be using solid core for fixed installation. The problem with a lot of installation is that it can work but may well be introducing a lot of noise which will mean lots of errors and retransmits and therefore poorer performance. The specs for running cables are to provide a guaranteed performance which can only really be ascertained with a really expensive certifier. It will probably be fine in short run situations but people may well not know.
Good article about the practicalities of running the cable (the hard bit). Making terminations is the easy part! for any more than a couple of sockets I would start thinking about running the cables into a patch panel and putting up a network cabinet somewhere out of the way. That way you can hide everything neatly away behind lock and key.
It should be mentioned that you should make yourself familiar with the regulations on cable zoning. This is both so that you know where you can expect to find existing cables and avoid them (still use a detector in case the previous person didnt follow the rules) and so that the next person who comes along will know where you put yours.
There is a lot missing from this article, especially a basic network diagram showing how you would use a network switch to connect the sockets together. In most cases, using a switch will greatly simplify the install and reduce the amount of cable needed. In my case, I put the switch in the loft and ran the cables down to the upper floor rooms using the gap in the stud wall. Only a single cable joined the router to the loftspace, which I did by going through the outside wall and up the back of the drain pipe into the soffit (and therefore, loft space). The main cable between the router and loft switch is therefore easily replacable should it ever needed to be upgraded. I also put cables in conduit where possible and left in a length of strong string (builders line) in case I want to pull any addtional cables through them in the future (much cheaper than putting in a second CAT6 cable as others have suggested).
Great article, very informative, i recently fitted a security light thanks to the help of your website, i plan to change a single electric socket to a double socket next thanks to your articles, which are very helpful, to people who know what they want to do, but not absolutely sure how to do it themselves, your articles are a great help
Great article. Couple of observations. In 2023, I would not be using Cat5E. I would be using Cat6A as a minimum. And when running the cable through as chases where it will be recovered with plaster/filler, i would run the canle though some conduit so you can re-pull a cable with ease later if you need to without opening up the wall again.
I love your content tho in this world of wifi 6 mesh networks, is this really worth the effort? I can understand ppl might want to run a cable to the summerhouse so they have a stable connection at the bottom of the garden, otherwise wifi6 and some compatible wifi mesh kit a much more practical solution imho.
The reason that I watched the article was to knwo what kind of cable is used between the router’s LAN and to the input port of the socket. I tried straight cable bw the router’s LAN and to the port on one of the socket but not getting any connectivity on the other socket which I have in my new house. I think I need to use a cross over cable between the router’s LAN and into the port on the socket and from any other socket to the PC i need a straight cable.
For reliability and transfer speeds it’s no contest when it comes to wired LAN vs WiFi. WiFi has got a hell of a lot better in the last 10 years but it still has good days and bad days. Wired network connections once installed are rock solid provided you use good cable and good kit (switches or hubs) from a reputable maker. However as you show here installing cables all around a house is a task, The ideal is to do it when the house is empty (i.e. between occupancies) – but since that is usually not possible, it is probably best done in stages – for example as each room is redecorated/refurbed) as part of an overall LAN plan. A lot depends on what you use your house network for. If it’s just office work and email then you may not gain much in speed, though you will get more reliability. But if you’re moving around a lot of data around (talking about HD article or large software downloads etc) then it is well worth the effort.
No No No. Cat5e…should not be installed into a new installation. Absolute minimum should be cat6 for future proofing. I’m sat here cringing because you even mentioned cat5e even for a basic home network…ARRGHHH Cat6a would be my minimum especially in walls. It would last many many years if not damaged while installing into walls or floor cavity
I’ve put all my network cables under the carpet near skirting boards, from gound floor where the ONT is, using cat 7 flat ethernet cable into Cisco SG250-08 (found 5 units in carboot sale for £25 all), than each unit was fitted, one in basement, one in hallway first floor, one in attic one in garage. Using flat ehernet cable, was easy to put it under the carpet from 1st swich, one cable to basement swich, 2nd cable in garage swich, 3rd cable into tv from kitchen, 4th cable in 1st floor swich, from 1st floor swich to attic swich. all 5 tv’s, 1 printer, 3 desktop computers, 1 playstation 4 pro, 1 playstation 5, 1 Reolink NVR for cctv, 1 NAS are connected by ethernet cables.
This is completely unneccasary. All you need to do is buy a third party Router that accepts your Broadband type. And most current routers accept most connection types these days. you can spend anywhere from £50 to £5000 on a router, depending on how far you want to go. Also, the wifi signal strength is dependant on many other factors including what your walls are made of. You absolutely don’t need to completely wire your house out for wired networking. Hardwiring is really only neccessary for things like Gaming PC’s or Consoles that play online games and/or download a lot. I have an Asus AX 5400 router, with sky’s fibre broadband. The only thing hardwired is my PC, EVERYTHING else is wireless, and i never have a problem with probably 15 wireless devices constantly connected to it, and one of those is a file server.
now ISP and computer manufactures are starting to use 2.5 Gigabit LAN I would say CAT5 is not worth putting in and you should be looking at CAT6 at least. Does CAT5e not have a spacer between the pairs? Might also be worth noting to make sure you buy sold CAT cable and not Stranded and also try to avoid Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA) cable and go for solid copper if you can as performance is better
I’ve just moved to an 80’s bungalow and was anticipating a relatively simple path for adding network points and the like. Well the internal walls are Stramit compressed straw panels and are horrible to work with it seems for an average DIYer like me. Apparently there are voids in them for cables. I’ve had a couple of light switches off and they’re a horrible mess, the knockout box screws barely doing anything. Straw, frickin straw!
Since you’ve gone to all the trouble of carving up your brick walls, why not run optic fibre? It’s now very affordable and you have futureproofed your network. I was surprised you has all that smicko gear for digging up your walls but you skimped out at getting a 5 quid rone compatible punch down tool. 🤷♂