Can Waste Drain Lines Be Installed In An External Wall?

The article discusses the installation of drain lines on exterior walls, focusing on the importance of proper grade and insulation. It suggests that installing plumbing in an exterior wall may be necessary in certain situations, but it is not ideal. To ensure the pipes don’t freeze and crack during winter, it is essential to insulate them.

The author has an exterior 2 x 6 wall that is perfect for running a 4″ toilet drain down. They mention that this is common practice when adding drains to older structures, but they also mention UV protection. All drain lines must be sloped, and fireproof caulking may be required.

To connect a waste pipe to an existing soil pipe, a “strap on boss” can be installed to make a watertight connection. This involves cutting a hole in the wall to create a watertight connection. However, building out the wall to make it deeper and insulate behind it is necessary to prevent freezing pipes in cold climates.

Drain lines on exterior walls are fine as long as they are properly graded. However, pipes should not be installed outside of a building, in exterior walls, attics, or crawl spaces, or in any other place subjected to freezing conditions.

The author’s question is whether a 2″ drain line with fittings touching the brick of a double exterior brick wall can be run without concern of freezing. ABS exposed pipes are allowed as long as they are coated with UV-protected paint since they are located outdoors.

Plumbing pipes can be installed in an outside wall, as long as freeze protection is provided. While it isn’t ideal, routing drain piping outside seems viable as long as freeze protection is provided.


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How to protect water lines on an exterior wall?

It is of the utmost importance to safeguard exposed water pipes with the use of protective measures such as pipe sleeves, heat tape, and heat cables. Furthermore, exterior faucets situated in proximity to the foundation should be insulated with foam covers to guarantee their security.

Can I run ductwork in an exterior wall?
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Can I run ductwork in an exterior wall?

Ducts in exterior wall cavities experience unnecessary heat gain and loss due to conduction, convection, and radiation, which adds extra load on HVAC equipment. Heat transfer occurs when the duct’s surface is in contact with the exterior sheathing, while convection occurs as air moves around the duct. Durability issues arise when humid air moves through cavity spaces containing cool ducts, as it can condense on the exterior surfaces of the cool ducts. This is common in older homes with humid climates with forced air heating systems.

In older homes with poorly insulated walls and single-pane windows, supply registers are often located at or on exterior walls to condition cold walls and air leakage. New homes with better air sealing and insulation and higher performance double-pane windows have less heat transfer through exterior walls and less air leakage. Shorter duct runs with interior throws are preferred for improved energy efficiency and better HVAC performance. Duct layout should be considered during the design stage to achieve comfort across each room.

Can you run plumbing vents in exterior walls?

It is inadvisable to install a plumbing system, with the exception of a dry vent that has been properly insulated, in an exterior wall.

Can you run water pipes in a wall?

Embedding pipes directly into the wall offers a smooth, visually appealing solution for a clean aesthetic. This method is gaining popularity among plumbers, who use plastic pipes to protect them from corrosion and eliminate the need for unsightly boxing. However, it’s crucial to consider the type of pipe you have before burying them. PEX or PB pipes should be wrapped in foil tape for easy detection with a pipe locator, while Multipipe MLC pipes don’t require tape due to their metal barrier, allowing them to be safely buried without compromising detection.

How to seal pipes through exterior walls?

To prevent air leakage in plumbing and piping installed through walls, ceilings, and flooring adjacent to unconditioned space, install a rubber gasket or flashing around the pipe and caulking, integrating it with the house wrap above the pipe. Check plumbing vent pipes for cracks and seal with caulk or acoustical sealant. Air seal around all plumbing and piping installed through walls, ceilings, and flooring. Cleanly cut holes no larger than the pipe diameter and seal gaps with caulk or canned spray foam. For larger gaps, rigid blocking material can be cut and sealed in place.

Can you run pipes through walls?

It is recommended that pilot holes be drilled prior to running pipes through a wall in order to prevent damage to surrounding materials and facilitate the process of threading.

Can you put pipes in the wall?

Before cutting into brickwork, check for pipes or cables and ensure cut-out channels are horizontal or vertical. If using copper pipes, install them in the newly formed channel, while copper or plastic pipes should be housed in a plastic channel or conduit. After installation, plaster the wall for a smooth surface for decorating. Use a vacuum extraction tool like the Hilti wall chaser to minimize dust. If exposed pipes can’t be chased into a wall, consider hiding them using alternative methods.

Do exterior walls need to be vented?
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Do exterior walls need to be vented?

Vents at exterior walls, particularly at windows, are intentional by architects, even in new LEED certified buildings. Condensation buildup on windows can cause moisture to infiltrate the exterior wall, destroying insulation and growing mold. In northern climates, ice on windows without proper ventilation is common. Cold pockets create chilly drafts, which people react to by turning up the heat. Heating the cold air near the window maintains insulation between heated and non-heated spaces.

Some retrofits run ducts through exterior walls in ways they shouldn’t, but this is a design problem rather than a problem with the concept of venting at exterior walls. In my own home, the builder routed three ducts that used to go up the center wall up outside walls, exposing some of the hottest air to the outdoors. However, the builder tried to put as thick a layer of insulation as possible between the ducts and the outside walls. Since we chose 6″ insulation and used 2″ deep, 14″ wide ducts instead of round ducts, we managed to get 4″ of Roxul insulation behind two of the three ducts in question.

Can you run a toilet drain through a wall?

To install a toilet, assess the framing and remove the wall. A 3-inch drain is required for toilet installations, and a 2×6 stud wall is necessary. Remove the wall surface up to the ceiling. Prepare for the new pipe by cutting a hole allowing wiggle room and removing a 10-inch by 2-foot section of flooring. Assemble the approved fittings onto the top of the drainpipe, ensuring they face the right direction. The drainpipe should be longer than needed, and slip the pipe down through the hole. Cut the pipe to size later from below.

How to insulate pipes in exterior walls?
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How to insulate pipes in exterior walls?

To insulate pipes, cut the pipe sleeve to length and wrap it around the pipe, ensuring there are no gaps between sleeves. Make a joint at the elbow and angle the ends of the foam to form a mitered corner that fits the pipe’s angle. Remove paper strips covering the self-sealing seam and press the edges together. Tape over the seams and joints with acrylic or aluminum foil tape to increase durability. Secure the insulation (and plastic covering) to the pipe every 1 to 2 feet using wire, tape, a plastic tie, or metal clamp.

Use caulk or foam to seal any holes where pipes penetrate walls, floors, ceilings, or framing. If pipes run through exterior wall cavities, insulate the wall cavity as you would the other cavities using blown cellulose, fiberglass, or spray foam. If using fiberglass or mineral wool batts, split the batt lengthwise, slide half the batt behind the pipes, fit into the cavity, and fit the remainder in front of the pipes to fill the cavity.

Cut a piece of rigid foam to fit the wall cavity dimensions, run a bead of foam adhesive around the back of the foam, slide it behind the pipe, and press it into place to seal it to the back wall of the cavity. Use caulk or canned foam to air seal the edges to the framing of the cavity. Lay a split batt over the front of the pipes.

Can you run water lines in an outside wall?
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Can you run water lines in an outside wall?

Insulating water pipes can save energy by minimizing heat loss through the piping, reducing the risk of condensation forming, mold and moisture damage, and protecting pipes from freezing and cracking in winter. Studies by the Department of Energy’s Building America program show that distribution heat loss in uninsulated hot water pipes can range from 16 to 23, depending on the climate. Adding 3/4-inch pipe insulation can cut overall water heating energy use by 4 to 5 annually.

The best practice is to avoid having water pipes located in exterior walls or through unheated attics, and to protect pipes from heat loss, the wall cavity containing the pipes should be air-sealed by caulking or foaming seams between the back wall of the cavity and the framing, and by sealing any holes through the framing for the piping. Insulating the steam distribution and return pipes can reduce heatloss by up to 90%, providing a quick payback on investment.


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Can Waste Drain Lines Be Installed In An External Wall?
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Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

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2 comments

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  • That last example is exactly what I’m going to attempt. But I thought you said we couldn’t go 13 feet with 1 1/2″ pipe? I want to install a slop sink in the corner of my laundry room. The drain is in the other corner. I have to go 8 ft., 90 left, then another 5 feet to get to that drain. If I do 1/4″/ft slope, that’s about a 4″ total drop right ? Any help would be much appreciated…as a residential electrician, I Hate DIY’ers…but I’m also very poor, lol.

  • Thank you for this! Question, we have a kitchen sink we need to move over 3′ however it is a load bearing wall. We are on a crawl space, so it may not be hard to extend the drain a few feet. But, what do I do about the vent? I cannot easily install a new vent at this location, and cutting through the 2x4s would be ideal however as a load bearing wall I can’t do that, correct?

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