Will Paint Stick To A Tarred Block Wall Outside?

Cinder blocks absorb paint unevenly, causing unwelcome paint splotches on walls. To ensure a properly painted surface, cinder blocks must be cleaned and dried before applying a primer coat using a nap roller. Choose a bonding and filling primer that is latex acrylic-based to fill in any cracks. For outdoor concrete walls like foundations, stucco, masonry, porches, and cement, learn pro tips for a professional grade finish and durable, low maintenance protection.

The best type of concrete paint for exterior walls is elastomeric, while 100% acrylic paint is a second-best option. Once walls are clean, you can start painting on newly-rendered or new brick or cement block walls. For older brickwork or if you are painting over an existing paint finish, you’ll need to repair any stains.

Seal exterior walls before painting, especially if the wall is porous, chalky, or badly weathered. For cinder blocks, use masonry bonding and filling primer, while for basements and outdoor walls, use a waterproof primer. The primer helps fill the pores of the cinder block surfaces and neutralizes the tar.

For cement blocks, seal them with oil-based paint for additional water resistance. Paint does not seal concrete blocks at all, as they used to be sealed with roofing tar. There is no paint or primer that will stick to tar, and even if one did, it wouldn’t last because tar expands and contracts too much.

Cement-water paints should be used for the initial coat, but there is no paint made that will cover or stick to thick tar on walls. If used correctly, this coating is seamless, durable, and has high tensile strength. Exterior masonry oil-base, resin-emulsion, or rubber-solution paint can be used for this purpose.


📹 How to Repair Foundation Parging

In this video, I show how I did a simple repair to concrete parging around my foundation of my house. Fixing parging is quite …


Can you paint over smokers walls?

To effectively remove stains and odors from paint, a solvent-based stain-blocking primer is necessary. Zinsser’s Cover Stain is an oil-based primer, but pigmented shellac primer is often needed. Zinsser’s B-I-N Primer is the best option in this category. However, BIN Primer is thin, messy, and has a pungent odor, so good ventilation and a high-quality respirator are essential. Despite these drawbacks, BIN Primer is effective in blocking water stains from bleeding through the finish, making it a reliable solution. It is important to note that it requires good ventilation and a high-quality respirator for optimal use.

Can I paint over waterproofing walls?

The waterproofing membrane protects your home’s foundation from water penetration and serves as an adhesive surface for primer and paints. However, access to this service has been limited due to an HTTP response code 503. If you believe you have been blocked, contact the site owner for assistance. If you are a WordPress user with administrative privileges, enter your email address and click “Send” to regain access.

What paint sticks to tar?
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What paint sticks to tar?

Asphalt professionals often use acrylic paint, a water-soluble and polymer-based paint, as it prevents lines from lifting off the asphalt and is not harmful to the subgrade or surrounding areas. Available in various colors and suitable for brushes, rollers, or spraying equipment, acrylics are more expensive than other paints. Oil-based paint, similar to acrylic but not made with water, is available in various colors and can be applied with various tools.

It is slow to dry but can withstand high-traffic areas but is not flexible and may crack or break apart. Water-based latex paint, available in various colors, is an excellent choice for blacktops and is the fastest drying type on asphalt, drying to the touch within three hours.

Do you need to seal a block wall before painting?
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Do you need to seal a block wall before painting?

Masonry surfaces should be sealed and primed before painting to prevent moisture from seeping through the concrete or masonry. This is particularly important in basements, where water may condense under plastic wrap. A quality masonry sealer with a separate primer is recommended to create a strong, water-resistant foundation for the final painting.

Painting should be done after the sealer and primer coats have dried out. A brush is preferred for detail work around windows and trim, while rollers can be used for the rest of the painting. The manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed for the appropriate nap size, typically ¾-inch or 1-inch. A minimum of three roller covers should be purchased for the sealer, primer, and paint.

Do block walls need primer before painting?

Priming is crucial for successful painting cinder blocks, creating a uniform topcoat free of pores. Use concrete and masonry bonding primer, not wood or drywall primer or self-priming paint. After priming, use acrylic-latex paint tinted to your choice for interior and exterior surfaces. For highly moist surfaces, purchase elastomeric paint, which is durable and elastic. Avoid using wood, drywall primer, or self-priming paint.

What kind of paint do you use on exterior blocks?

To paint exterior cinder blocks, use acrylic latex paint or masonry paint for professional results. Consult local paint store experts for recommendations. Cinder blocks are porous, so spray vertically and horizontally when applying paint, and backroll after the first coat to ensure it gets pushed into the pores. Consult with experts at your local store for best results. Remember to consult with experts for expert advice.

Can you use exterior paint on asphalt?
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Can you use exterior paint on asphalt?

When painting an asphalt surface, it is crucial to use the right type of paint. Acrylic, tar, and oil-based paint are all suitable options when applied correctly. Acrylic paint is a popular choice due to its water-soluble and polymer-based nature, making it easy to apply with various tools. However, it is more expensive than other paints. Water-based latex paint is a great option for driveway resurfacing projects due to its versatility and quick drying time.

Coal tar paint is ideal for high-traffic areas due to its durability and affordability. However, it is dangerous to work with due to its caustic properties. Oil-based paint is easy to apply, comes in various colors, and is available at a fair price. However, it cracks and breaks more easily than other types of asphalt paint and takes longer to dry. Using the right type of paint can help create the best asphalt surface for your home or business.

Can you paint over tar on walls?
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Can you paint over tar on walls?

Before painting, ensure the surface is clean and dry, and wash it with algae or mold wash if necessary. For surfaces treated with pine tar, brush and clean off dirt and dust. For distemper paint-treated wood, use a wire brush to remove loose paint. Brush off the entire surface with a soft brush or broom. Stir the tin carefully before and during painting, as the pigment settles quickly in the bottom. Finish the wall at a time using the same batch.

The consumption of tar per square meter varies, with Genuine pine tar and Dalbränd pine tar having a consumption of about 2-4 sqm per litre. The consumption depends on the type of wood, weather conditions, and whether the façade is new or older. A dry and cracked façade absorbs tar heavily, so the consumption per square metre might be significantly higher than normal.

Pine tars are slow-drying, depending on the thickness of the paint, wood type, weather conditions, and the type of facade. The surface begins to feel drier after a few days, and the smell of tar subsides slightly. It takes a few weeks or even months for the surface to completely dry. Tar Vitriol has a shorter drying time than other pigmented tars.

Can you paint exterior block walls?
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Can you paint exterior block walls?

To apply exterior house paint to masonry surfaces, start with a block filler primer, which soaks into pores and seals them for a solid, durable surface. Use a quality exterior paint roller with a thick nap to apply the primer in a thick layer, avoiding drips and puddles. Use a wide exterior paint brush to prime near edges and areas where the roller struggles.

After the primer has dried, choose an elastomeric top coat or a regular exterior acrylic/latex paint. Elastomeric paint is highly flexible and waterproof, providing better protection in areas with seasonal changes and water concerns. Acrylic/latex paints are also flexible and designed to withstand nature’s forces. Choose a premium quality line of paints for the longest lasting results.

Can I paint over black tar?
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Can I paint over black tar?

Black tar under 9″ floor tiles is a common issue for homeowners, especially in kitchens and garages. It poses safety concerns, especially in old buildings before the 1980s. To cover the tar, paint or other materials can be used, such as Perfect Primer sealers. Experts recommend scraping or dissolving the tar, then applying a new flooring system. Sealing or removing the tar is the best way to deal with it. If the tar is hard and sticky, it may be cut back asphalt glue.

A special solvent or floor machine can be used to dissolve the material or remove it. Perfect Primer sealers provide perfect sealing. When scraping off the tar, moisten it until completely removed to avoid serious health hazards. If you don’t know how to cover cutback glue or remove tile glue, hiring an expert is the best way to handle the issue.

Can you paint on tar?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Can you paint on tar?

Black tar under 9″ floor tiles is a common issue for homeowners, especially in kitchens and garages. It poses safety concerns, especially in old buildings before the 1980s. To cover the tar, paint or other materials can be used, such as Perfect Primer sealers. Experts recommend scraping or dissolving the tar, then applying a new flooring system. Sealing or removing the tar is the best way to deal with it. If the tar is hard and sticky, it may be cut back asphalt glue.

A special solvent or floor machine can be used to dissolve the material or remove it. Perfect Primer sealers provide perfect sealing. When scraping off the tar, moisten it until completely removed to avoid serious health hazards. If you don’t know how to cover cutback glue or remove tile glue, hiring an expert is the best way to handle the issue.


📹 Avoid a Parging Fail with These DIY Tips and Techniques

Today I am parging my house! I’m going to show you why your parging is failing, falling, and cracking off and how to fix it and …


Will Paint Stick To A Tarred Block Wall Outside?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

Email: [email protected], [email protected]

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39 comments

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  • With all do respect, because I truly respect you and your work, I’m surprised by some missing info in this article. 1. Surface prep. remove the loose stuff with a wire brush. 2. use set control for more working time of the product. 3. Product directions and minimum thickness. This layer looks like it would crumble with one kick.4. Start from the bottom and pull it up. Spray bottle or hose on mist setting is also nice to use. Just saying this to be helpful to others.

  • Great article! You inspired me to do this myself. Probably went back and watched it 10 times! Now my foundation looks like a million bucks. I’m painting it with Bluskin paint as well for a little extra water resistance and then putting in new perimeter drains. Without your articles I wouldn’t know where to start with a lot of this stuff. Thank you man. Please keep them coming!

  • I didn’t even know what parging was until yesterday… Jeff I have a older shed in FL that was made with Hardy cement board. It’s in the back corner of the yard, but a hole was knocked out around 10″. If I was going to try and patch it up what tape and cement, Portland, mortar should I look to try? If it doesn’t work I can remove panel and replace with wood but I just wanted to experiment and learn.

  • Reason for wetting down any surface like stone, cement board etc before applying parging mix (or mortar etc) is that the dry surface, if not wet down prior, pulls the water out of the parging mix, which stops the hydration process of the cement so it does not get to full strength. It’s a chemical process that happens with cement when water is added to build it’s strength and bond, and if the mix becomes too lean (ie lower water content) because the backer material pulled out the water, there is not sufficient water for the chemical reaction to be fully completed. Covering with plastic is good, especially if very how at the time of application. If cooler, no need to cover, can sprinkle the surface od the mix with water several times a day after 4 hours or so when the surfacer f=has dried to the touch, Water will be absorbed into the concrete to allow the chemical reaction of the concrete to be completed/ Great article though,

  • Jeff I love your website. I watched one of your painting articles the other day and feel like I’ve learned more about technique in 30 minutes than I did in 7 years of home ownership. I need to install a prehung door and putting in hardwoods in the coming weeks and you’ve been so informative and realistic. Even when you show shortcuts, you explain them far more coherently than any other home improvement websites. Keep up the awesome work. I don’t even think I can ask friends to help paint anymore. They’d just slow me down and waste my paint.

  • I watched this article only because I never heard of “parging” before! Now that I do, I have a question. I have a bag of leftover Quikrete lying around after setting a mailbox post. Is this close enough to parging mix that I can use it to fill similar irregularities on the concrete walls of an old attached garage before applying masonry waterproofing paint?

  • @homerenoVisionDiy, I need to do this for my house 1880’s also. Can you explain does the parging affect the joints between the limestone (the old mortar)? You mentioned how concrete is so alkaline..does it break down the limestone or joints over time, or does it actually offer protection? Also, when doing this should you just use the parging mix for the uneven surfaces, or use something else to make the surface of the limestone a bit more even? Thank you so much, I’ve learned so much from your website ☺

  • I’m currently doing repairs on my Foundation wall as well. Thank you for another great article. I just wanted to say one of the things that makes your articles great is that you get to the heart of the repair or modification. It goes beyond put this size screw this distance apart in this material. You go on to discuss why you need these kinds of screws, and why you made the decision with the housing wrap. Thank you for your unique take on teaching construction. Sometimes understanding why is just as important as understanding how.

  • Ok, so I have a question; I am at my dads 100 year old house with 100 year year old rock type foundation. I found some leaks in the basement and when I dug below the soil level in the garden, I saw how the roots had burrowed their way into the cracks and the mortar is falling apart in places. Is there a way I can patch it up with hydraulic cement until I have time to redo it properly?

  • Hi. The parge around my home is in pretty good shape but there were some superficial cracks. I used mortar fix cause I had no idea what to use. I don’t like the way it looks though. Can I put the parging mix over it? Or do I have to scrape out the mortar fix in the lines? Worried that might dislodge the parging. Any advice? Thanks

  • I found ours was cracked and breaking off when the snow thawed after moving into our place. I’ve been putting off the repair, but now I think I’ll be able to handle it. What do I do about turf and dirt that is in the way? Dig it up down to a certain level to clear the work area? And how far below the level of my turf can the parging extend? Not at all? A little bit? Three hundred feet? Please, Jeff, I beg of you: help this slightly better than useless fellow Canuck.

  • Love your articles, had to do this on my house lately great help. Now it may not be my place to say but as a medical professional I have to tell you your heavy breathing has me worried. From my experience I detect signs of lung damage and it’s not something i’d ignor if I were you. We all love you and you’re work, please get this checked out. Weight gain is certainly a factor but I think you ma have more issues to worry about. Just get checked out for your health sake. Keep on keeping on Jeff you’re a legend!

  • Great article!! I’m actually looking to repair some cracking parging on my block foundation. The only problem is that no local home improvement stored carry “parging mix”. Not even the big boys like Lowe’s or Home Depot. Maybe that’s because a lot of new construction homes are poured foundations instead of block? 🤷🏻‍♂️ Any ideas?

  • Great review, Jeff. 6:50 If possible, use a water hose with a light spray nozzle to thoroughly soak the existing concrete. This article (@ 11:00) shows the importance of keeping the parge mix and concrete surface moist, as they become enemies when too dry. Two moist items hydraulically bond. A slow dry allows the Portland cement to bond best to the existing substrate. Mix your own parge with 2 parts masonry sand and 1 part Portland.

  • I’m looking at purchasing a house and I’ve run across (and been warned about) something called EIFS aka Synthetic Stucco. Have you ever removed & replaced this? I’d appreciate any knowledge you might be able to give us on what this is, why it was/is used, and how much of a catastrophe it’s liable to be if it fails.

  • Great article, Jeff! I have a question for you. I have an old (120 year old) house with limestone foundation and I bought a few bags of Natural Hydraulic Lime #3.5 from Merkley and I was wondering if, other than aesthetics, if there a benefit to parging vs just repointing and only filling cracks and gaps in between the rocks? Thanks!

  • I read all 150 comments still no one is concerned about termites! I was taught that you can’t put anything on your foundation that’s closer than 4 inches to the ground or you’re inviting termites. As long as you’re down there why not back butter some tile and make it really look great? Because termites will worm their way up behind to eat your house? Or can I tile my foundation? Is this an unwarranted concern? Please someone tell me for sure!

  • Jeff, I need to parge the side of my house but I have a few cracks (vertical) on the exterior and interior on the foundation. My plan is to get them injected on the inside with epoxy but do I need do anything special to the exterior cracks before parging ? Should I fill them in with hydraulic cement? Or are they fine to Parge over once addressed from the inside?

  • Keeping your concrete wet when parging. Wow, I continue to be amazed by the many tips and tricks you can’t seem to find anywhere else on the ‘net. Is there some sort of secret resource of knowledge where you get your information from? Is this knowledge only obtained from years of experience? You’re not just a teacher but also a student of the craft who picks up important tips and tricks that can be easily passed along to DIY viewers. Your sons are lucky to get the wisdom passed along at a young age from what you’ve obtained over the years.

  • Aren’t you concerned about rot on ledger board? Whenever that parging and cement board gets wet, it’s going to hold moisture against your rim joist. Imagine in the spring when you’ve got 2 ft of melting snow against your house. Just like with stucco, a small air gap (thin furring strips) behind the cement board with bug netting at the bottom would be useful to prevent rot.

  • Unfortunately the old trades of plastering is gone and now today we just cover things up with box store products quick and diy systems to get us by for 10-15 years… There is so many failure points in this system described but 10-15 years is good enough today. No one shoots for 50-100 years anymore..I’m just saying from a 60 year old third generation plaster’s experienced point of view… anyways thank you for not giving away the real method of quality foundation parging…diy failures will keep my family plaster business going for my grandchildren… Amen..

  • Jeff, i have some water coming in through the basement wall (probably because of a gutter that needs fixed). I don’t think it’s appropriate to replace the weeping tile as the spots of water are localized to an area 10 x 4 on a single East wall near the furnace and the old coal chute (the house is about 100 years old or more). I was thinking of parging from the inside using your methods here. Can you parge from the inside? The amount of water is nominal — a few ounces at most (not enough to form puddles as far as I can tell; it’s almost like condensation).

  • Thanks Jeff because I didn’t know to wet the cement board before applying and that I should add the cement to the water. I’ve always seen it done in person the other way round. It’s a good job I stopped before I wasted my cement and frustrated myself out of this well needed project. Tomorrow, I should do a better job and be able to finish too. Thanks again for your vid because all the others showed something else which I just didn’t feel suited my situation.👌👍👊

  • liked your article, very informative DIY. I’ve have some areas around my foundation wall that requires freshen up with parging. there’s a product on the market by KING, it’s an adhesive concrete to concrete, it can be added during mix or brushed on. Mr. Home RenoVision can you add some info about this product if you have ever used this. It’s not cheap.

  • portland cements and concrete are highly alkaline, not acidic .. and, always add water to your cement … mix dry (buy sand and OPC and mix yourself), then add H2O … mix by hand with a hoe or trowel … no power tools required and then, as Mike Haduck explains, after wetting the substrate, paint it with a cement/H2O mix and then parge so that your parge really does stay on

  • Have a question Jeff. I have the exact type of job to do….. I have styrofoam insulation on the outside of a concrete slab that I want to parge. I am leery to screw the cement board through the styrofoam and into the concrete because I have infloor heating in the slab. Can I just use something like PL Premium to attach the cement board to the styrofoam?

  • Sorry dude but you failed on this project. You placed the cement board directly on to the rim joist with nothing in between. The concrete board with parging will be constantly trying to hydrate. It will also get saturated from wind driven rain along with snow melt. Looks like future mold growth leading to rot will probably occur. I would of put a blue skin or another peel and stick membrane on first

  • Instead of a damp rag or sponge to moisten the underlayment couldn’t you just use your garden hose on a mist spray? When you hang the plastic do you do it after you parge the whole house? It might be dry by the time you finish;the last 10 ft of your house. So I’ll assume hang the plastic in sections directly after you parge while it is still wet?

  • I have watched other home improvement show but yours are the best. I honestly feel that you whant to teach and don’t hold back telling us the best way to do jobs, but also let us know how to tell if you get some one to do work for you that they are doing the work right.thank you for you hard work if i ever need to do any work you will be the frist one for me to look up🙏

  • How’s that durock holding up? I would like to use Durock 1/2″x 12″ tall around the grade of my ICF walls and put a drip edge + rain screen above that. Hardy panel will be the actual siding. We get about 3 feet of snow in the winter and the temperature commonly swings 40 degrees in a day. Would you recommend what I am thinking of doing?

  • Not to be picky here, but just to ensure correctness and make sure everyone understands. Cement (Concrete, etc) is not “Acidic” as described, it is Caustic (or Basic), meaning it has a high Alkaline or higher PH. Hence why the tape mentioned says Alkali Resistant. Other than that. Great article. Thanks for the good info.

  • You nailed this job. A Master Mason taught me if you want it to stick you gotta wet it. Great job you’re doing but would you like to have knees when you’re sixty? Throw down cardboard, kneeling pad, or even knee pads. I’m telling you at sixty five you should hear me groaning in pain. I’ve knelt on pebbles that have brought tears to my eyes while cementing. Don’t do it, knees are the largest joints in the human body and darn it you need them for your craft. I love your work, you are a wealth of talent. I’ve learned a lot but I’m getting older at 65 eek, I can’t believe it I was 25 yesterday or so it seems. I’m slowing down, the knees are shot, the hands are arthritic but hell, I’m not giving up just yet. Not in this old house.

  • Is the parging just decorative, or can it reduce water entry? My basement gets wet when it rains. The ground slopes down towards the house. So obvious I need to get that fixed, but I haven’t found anyone locally to install window wells and do the grading. Too tough for me. I have Parkinson’s. However, I wonder if I could reduce the water in the basement by replacing the parging that is coming off. That is something I might be able to handle myself. The parging is falling off, revealing holes in the concrete block walls close to the ground, where rainwater pools. . I can watch the basement walls fill with water during a rainstorm. The problem is most obvious on the walls below those holes. Questions are… What do I seal those holes with, and can I do it with the same mix I use for parging? I’ve seen ads for hydraulic cement and a product called Thoroseal. Both claim to resist water pressure. Would you know if I can use these to seal the holes and do the parging? How far should I dig down at my walls to apply the parging?

  • I am siding an existing building which the foundation is at grade with asphalt setting at the same height as the sill plate. Code requires 6 inches to the bottom of the siding. What should I use to seal that six inches and keep water away from the sill as the previous siding was rotted out. I’m in a high snow area also. Thanks Larry

  • Hi Jeff, I have a slab foundation with 4″ of insulation. Can I parge on top of the insulation or do I need to add cement board or wire mess on top? I was thinking of using Styro Tuff ii. Btw, I built my porch EXACTLY like you did in the article and even got the 20′ cedar boards after asking lumber yard!! I wish I could send you picture! You da man

  • I like the majority of this guys articles but this job will not last the test of time. Stucco is based on traditonal plastering techniques. This will not work. I have repaired jobs where people have tried parging over cement board. The cement board doesn’t have the groves like a scratch coat. No mechanical bond.

  • I remember when the mason asked me to dung the tiles in a barrel and let them there for a week before tiling. It is amazing how much water they can soak and I was amazed that after many years not a single tile got loose. He also watered the concrete like crazy it was all soaked and dripping. I guess it is the same here, cement needs a lot of water to cure, that is why in my home country (tropical weather) concrete slabs are watered every day for 45 days. The first day you can hear the cement sizzling and absorbing water like a sponge, by day 40 not so much but still getting some.

  • Hey Jeff, I’m going to be parging my foundation this weekend. I am wondering if a top coat of stucco is required or just for appearance? If I don’t mind having a plain grey concrete look, can I use just a scratch/brown coat product without needing to finish with a separate top coat? I’m parging over cement board also, and live in Northern Ontario. Thanks in advance.

  • Wow great article! I’m doing a fix and flip property and the exterior foundation is old school big stones and concrete and looks like crap. Was thinking of just repainting it, but now after perusal this article I’m going to use the cement board and completely overhaul the foundation to make it look like new! Thanks for the awesome idea!

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