A service regulator is a crucial device in the natural gas industry, installed outside a building near the gas meter. It reduces gas pressure from the service line to a safe and usable pressure for household or industrial appliances. Gas regulators are installed horizontally due to their regular vent position, and if the vent position is perpendicular to the gas flow, they will ask for the horizontal regulator. They are found throughout the system from the wellhead to the customer meter and are used strategically to maintain safety and prevent accidents.
A regulator may have a 3/8″ vent connection, but the vent should be increased to a minimum of 3/4″ to 1″ and piped directly to the exterior of the building. Pressure regulators control pressure in specific sections of a natural gas pipe system, including the supply, feeder, distribution, and service mains. They are used strategically to maintain safety and prevent gas leaks.
For safe and effective gas piping installation, the right materials must be used, otherwise, you could put yourself and your property at risk of gas leaks. Gas regulators are devices that “regulate” incoming gas pressure, reducing it from a high pressure to a safe and usable pressure. When using a vent limiting device, the regulator must be mounted in an upright horizontal position only and threaded.
Regulators cannot operate without the vent, as if the diaphragm were to rupture or perforate, gas would be vented to the exterior of the device. For safe and effective gas piping installation, the right materials must be used, otherwise, you could be putting yourself and your property at risk of gas leaks.
In summary, natural gas regulators ensure safe, efficient gas delivery from the wellhead to the home. They must comply with all necessary requirements, including an independent vent to the exterior of the building, and the use of approved devices to pipe them to the exterior wall.
📹 Gas Regulators
This video has everything you’d ever want to know about gas regulators! We’ll specifically be talking about the maxitrol brand gas …
How long does a natural gas regulator last?
The typical service life offered by regulator manufacturers is five years, although exceptions are made for gas-based regulators used in specialist applications.
Where should a gas regulator be installed?
It is recommended that the regulator vent be positioned in a downward orientation to prevent the ingress of moisture or foreign particles. The vent should be situated at a distance from building eaves, window openings, and air intakes to ensure optimal performance. In instances where the expected snow level is a relevant consideration, the vent should be mounted above this level. It is recommended that inspections for the presence of foreign materials be conducted on a regular basis, in accordance with the standards set forth in DOT PHMSA-RSPA-2004-19856. In the event of an indoor installation, it is necessary to pipe the vent to the outside atmosphere.
Can a natural gas regulator be installed vertically?
The position of a gas regulator can be horizontal or vertical, depending on the angle modification needed for the gas intake manifold. It is recommended to place the regulator on the intake manifold and the gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Vent limiting devices require a horizontal upright position, and propane gas regulators should point downwards or have an attached adapter. It is advisable to install a pressure gauge at the outlet and inlet of the regulator, along with gauge petcocks, to monitor performance and fieldset the regulator. Venting is crucial for safe and effective operation, as it allows the diaphragm within the regulator to breathe and acts as a safety measure for gas metered applications.
Does a gas range need to be vented outside?
The majority of US regions do not have legal requirements for venting gas cooktops, as there are no specific codes that mandate the installation of vents.
Can you run a natural gas line outside?
Natural gas lines provide convenience and warmth to outdoor spaces, eliminating the need to refill propane tanks for barbecues or outdoor cooking. They also burn cleaner than propane, reducing fumes and ensuring a clean backyard. Natural gas can also be used to fuel outdoor heating sources, such as fireplaces, firepits, or patio heaters, which can extend the patio season in Ontario’s cooler fall and spring seasons.
This eliminates the stress of refilling a propane tank and ensures a comfortable outdoor space for guests. Overall, natural gas lines offer a more environmentally friendly and convenient way to enjoy outdoor activities.
Why do gas meters need to be outside?
Meter leaks have the potential to cause house explosions; therefore, it is crucial to maintain the system in an external location. Furthermore, the presence of nearby fires, including those affecting your own residence, can render it challenging or even dangerous to deactivate the system, particularly if you are not present at the time.
What is the problem with the regulator in the natural gas system?
Regulator creep is an issue where pressure escapes from the regulator body even when the poppet is closed, often due to seat contamination. High flow gas stream particles can create indentations in the seat, create leak paths, lodge between the seat and poppet, and damage the poppet. To remedy this, replace or clean the valve to remove particulates. If the valve seat is damaged, you may need to replace it from your vendor. In the worst case, replace the entire regulator.
It’s recommended to add a filter upstream of the regulator to prevent particles from reaching the regulator. If the regulator isn’t achieving the required pressure, it’s likely a problem with the regulating spring, which can be easily fixed by replacing it with one rated for the required pressure range.
Can a gas regulator be installed indoors?
It is a regulatory requirement that a vent be present in order for a device to function correctly. In the event that the diaphragm becomes ruptured or perforated, the result would be the venting of gas to the exterior of the device. This would necessitate the venting of indoor regulators to the outdoors or the making of an exception.
Do natural gas regulators leak?
A diaphragm in a pressure regulator may malfunction due to the presence of defects or foreign matter within the gas line. It is not uncommon for the presence of gas to be detected in the vicinity of the regulator, particularly during the venting process which is employed to regulate pressure. A bubble test may assist in the identification of the underlying issue.
Do all gas regulators need to be vented outside?
In the event that an LP gas regulator is installed within a building, it is imperative that the regulator be vented to the outside atmosphere. This can be achieved through the use of copper tubing, which will serve as a vent extension. The extension must terminate at a distance of at least three feet from any opening that allows for the return of gases into the building.
📹 How does a natural gas regulator work
I take apart a natural gas regulator used in gas furnaces. Adjusting is covered. What makes it work is covered. This video is part of …
When talking about gas regulators, please denote natural gas or propane up front as a disclaimer. Other than that, if using PSI, always give the inches of water column! I maybe easy for someone to get distracted and not hear or see both. You said Professional but anyone can watch. Other than that, pull up your britches, get a hair cut & wear your hat straight. Then get a job!! And stay off my lawn! DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech since 1978.
To Bob y, Bob if the young man had his shirt off with a pierced nipple I might agree, however a baseball cap backwards? Give it a rest, I’m 67 and hats off to the young man who is opting for a trade, the trades are so short of good help we don’t need you chasing young people away. And for those young people who wear a company uniform good on you also. I want a skilled worker not someone who only looks the part.
bro i really need some help here. i have 5 laundry dryers (15kg load type) ( manufacturer recommends just need small regulator) But my Gas seller recommends using a Big regulator to supply all of of them but then each of the machine will have its smaller regulator to contain the flow. ( this cost alot) another gas seller suggest me to just install 1 medium size regulator and then it can regulator all 5 dryer. anyone here can help me?
Where is this link for the calculator? At 3:30 i can not understand what he says and i dont see any calculators in the links to pex universe. Im having a hard time finding what LP regulator i need. 100lb tank to supply a 60000 btu converted hanging shop heater. lots of dead ends. I have a 1 inch black pipe stubbed out and capped.
I just checked with a local propane supplier. I need two regulators, one at the 500 gal tank and one at the house, the only difference I can see is outlets, 1 has 1/4 ” and 3/4 inch the other has 3/4 inch. They are in the neighborhood of 50-80 buck each. I was quoted $583.00 to remove the old and install the new. These are zero adjustment valves, the only other thing is check for leaks and see that my furnace works. I’ll pass and do it myself
Would love to see a vid on replacing an old leaking diaphragm valve (old muller climatrol gas furnace water heater) control valve with 3 sets of 2 wires Thermostat, pilot, and transformer. Got a new Robertshaw valve that is the only one that cross referenced. It has only 1set of 2 wire connections marked as TR & TU! this furnace is old but works great I keep it clean & maintained perusal it closely! cannot afford a new heater at this time! has anyone ran into this problem? My regulator is not leaking and still works fine! Original control valve is not available!
You did a pretty good job of explaining your maxitrol regulators but I’d like to go over a few things you may have failed to mention.#1 if a vent limiter is used the regulator must be mounted horizontal ( this is required so the vent limiter BB stays in its standby seat).#2 you should have probably want into a little more depth on sizing the regulator and piping, like total load BTUs ( cubic feet per hour) and number of appliances contributing to the total BTU load ( there is a rating difference between, 1 Appliance, let us say at 300,000 BTUs & 3 appliances at 300,000 BTUs total).#3 regulator can vent anytime the Downstream pressure exceed the manufacturer’s set point but there is more things than just a ruptured diaphragm that can cause this ( dirt between the seat and orifice, imperfection or tear in the seat & ect). Again you did a pretty good job in your presentation, probably better than most supply houses could do, keep those articles coming. PS, you may want to lose the cap on backwards look and buy a polo shirt with the company logo to gain a little more respect in your industry. I know it should not make a difference but it does.
How often do the diaphragms wear out. They’re pretty much a moving part right. Here in the UK medium pressure regulators are set to work at at max of 75 M/bar. They’re designed to govern domestic dwellings at 22 Mb constant. They can only be replaced or adjusted by the energy service providers. What tests can you carry out on multifunction valves ( warm air units ). They’re very common in Canada and America right? Is it thermocouple test, solenoid test & working pressure test? What other safety features do warm air and open flue boilers have? I really enjoy your articles. You explain very clearly. How do atmospheric sensing devices operate?🤔 Thanks
So in effect, spring force is never more than the gas pressure force. This allows the load of appliance gas use to modulate the balance between spring force and gas pressure. When appliance is off, no load is available to empty the downstream side of the valve and the gas pressure (always more than spring) now seals the valve. The question I have is does increasing downstream load effectivey provide a vacuum to the diaphram and sucks it down thereby opening the valve which then fills the void with gas?
Thank you for that explanation. Thoroughly describes how the valve actually works. I have a Maxitrol valve that I intend to use on a generator. The range of the valve is 3″ to 6″ of pressure. My generator requires 6″. Do I screw the adjusting screw all the way down to get to 6″ of pressure, or is 3/4s of the way down sufficient? Also, do I need to use copper tubing to vent the vent hole to the outside of my indoor generator room, or can i use some type of plastic tube. Much thx in advance.
I have a question about the diameter of the outlet on the gas meter. It is currently 1″ diameter. I will have somewhere above 90′ of pipe from the meter to the furthest appliance. Around 300 000 BTU/h. And standard 7″ water column on the house side. So I would like to attach a 1.5″ pipe to the meter. Can you install a 1.5″ diameter pipe outlet on the gas meter with 1″ outlet? From my understanding, attaching 1.5″ pipe to the 1″ outlet on the meter would create a bottle neck right there? Thanks
In my area, gas pressure reduce during peak times in winter and gas heaters are unusable due to very low pressure. If I turn the adjustment screw clockwise to increase the pressure for when there is low pressure during peak times, would that mean the flames would be bigger during off peak time when the pressure goes back to normal or regulator will still balance out the pressure?
My Kenmore stove is 9 years old. I can smell gas when stove is turned on. Ignitors work, light with a striker, and flame is very small, sometimes going out. It is like this on all burners. As I continue to light with a striker, the stove lights, and flame continuously accelerates, then is perfect. After which, all burners begin to light fine. do you think that my problem is the regulator?
If the regulator is separate from the rest of the gas chain, it can be replaced but the only source I use is an HVAC supply. There are some internet sources but I have not checked them out. It may be best to change the entire gas chain with a combination gas valve. Check out the Gas furnace playlist on grayfurnaceman on youtube. The may explain better than I can here. My guess is its 3/4 ” pipe if it is residential. Parts are not availiable for regulators. Too many leak problems.
Some regs have adjustments and some don’t. If there is a screw slot under the cap it is. As for the weed burner and orifices, orifice sizes, pressures and BTU output are available on the web. Careful here, you are designing a burner and leaks or KABOOMS are possible. Propane is heavier than air and will build up in low spots. Not trying to tell you not to do it, but know your limits. The pressure washer vid will be done when and if I get a mule to do the vids on. GFM
would my regulator have anything to do with my furnace starving for gas. I have been struggling with when my furnace starts up the glow igniter has a hard time igniting a flame and clicks a lot, then when burners finally ignite it may kick off and start over. I replaced the flame sensor and igniter and still had issues, then the other day my propane tank was filled up with some more gas since I am on a budget plan, and it has been working fine ever since. now weeks later I started hearing that clicking sound again and furnace isn’t igniting right away.
Grayfurnaceman, what could cause a regulator to chatter or flutter. I’m having issues with my manifold pressure fluttering between 3.5 – 5 in wc on Nat gas. I believe it’s at the regulator, bc I can feel it fluttering when the burners are lit. My supply gas pressure is right and the leaving side of the regulator is at 14″, but when the gas valve opens the fluttering starts. Any ideas?
What can cause a gas regulator to jam or become faulty ?With the spring not pushing far down enough onto the valve. To allow the correct amount gas intended for the device attached. In our case a bbq.Having problems with the gas supply needed to reach full flame sized fire when the bbq is fully switched on high.
GFM, Thank you, great article and long time subscriber to your website. One aspect to a gas pressure regulator that I may have missed and seemingly can’t find an answer to is the “why”. I’m helping a friend add a gas range to his house. He has a gas regulator already installed on his line not far from the furnace and gas water heater. If the gas meter coming in to the house steps the pressure down and each appliance has their own valve, why would a gas pressure regulator be needed? Most homes including my own don’t have post meter gas pressure regulators installed. His does. I’m having a hard time understanding why. And if it’s possibly not necessary, I’d like to consider tapping into his gas line pre regulator to run his kitchen range as it would be more efficient to tap in pre regulator if advisable to do so. Thanks GFM!
My gas stoves’ oven has been smoking black a lot lately. At first I thought it was food that fell and was burning but that wasn’t the case. Something is wrong that is causing it to smoke a lot and don’t know what the problem is. It doesn’t smoke at the stove top, only the oven. Any idea what can be the problem? Perhaps the regulator needs to be regulated?? I just want to fix the problem. It’s getting annoying cleaning all the black gunk the smoke leaves behind. It’s hard to clean. Thnx.
Great article! Thanks for the information. I found your article because I’m having a slight problem with a recently installed natural gas Generator. It seems that when It turns on and is running, and the furnace turns on, the pilot on the hot water heater gets sucked off. Everything is the same in the original set-up except the added generator. It is connected to a 2 1/2 gas line that was previously installed (for a pool heater that’s been removed) and is now stepped down to 3/4 then to 1/2 inch to hook up to the generator. Depending on the Generators pressure need, do you think a regulator on the generator side would fix the problem? I know I’m asking a lot with a little information, but your advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Ive been a mechanic for 25 years, regulators buzz, thats a fact, they all do it, and yes it will drive you nuts, your regulator is hitting a spot where the diaphragm is fluttering between open and closed, these are non servicable most times, ive had a lot that are garbage and i just replace them if they give me problems.
It’s been 20 degrees outside for 4 days and all of a sudden my regulator is not working. There’s good pressure in the upstream,, but nothing on the downstream. Did my regulator go bad or should I increase the spring pressure? I hate to have to go buy a new one and install it out here. Was hoping for a quick fix or some sort of adjustment to make it flow again.
I stopped perusal half way though but it should be noted that what you explained is the way a ‘direct acting’ regulator functions. They can be auxiliary controlled. Direct acting regulators are usually seen in industrial and commercial installations as they are faster to react to a sudden stop in flow i.e an industrial boiler. Would have been a handy point for you to mention.
Easier explanation. When downstream pressure is at regulator set point, if the system is direct acting (reg impulsed on outlet side of reg) outlet pressure acts under the diaphragm closing the regulator (actually takes 2-5 mb of pressure to fully lock the regulator). When supply drops and there is demand…the impulse under the diaphragm drops as does the seat allowing gas to flow through the regulator. This is more for industrial or single feed systems. Auxiliary is the alternative.
Regarding propane, I don tthink the PG regulator has an adjustalbe reg., unless it is under the cap. I am trying to make a weed burner with 5 or so orificies. Do you know if I can adjust the amount of gas or feeding the burners, if I use 42/100ths or 30/, by turning the screw in the PG reg. Can you do a vidio on a pressure washer accuator?
how important is instant access to this regulator? We are putting up sheetrock walls and planned to have an access panel to this regulator that can be opened….however we also planned to have a stacked washer/dryer in front because of the lack of space. I never remember anyone needing access to this regulator however am I looking for trouble by blocking it?
Thank you for the article. Sorry for the extended post… I see this article is 11 years old so maybe someone out there can answer my question. I am in the process of installing a new indoor tankless water heater. I am trying to get an inlet static W/C reading at the water heater using a manometer. The readings are kind of all over the place- within 1-2″. I’ll take a reading and find out that it’s too high; I go out to the regulator & adjust it (counterclockwise) to get less pressure, then I’ll get the pressure at the water heater inlet to where I want it. If I go back and check an hour or so later, it’ll be an inch or two higher at the wh inlet than what I previously measured 😡 I live in the mountains and it’s rather cold of late & my 1000 gallon LPG tank is outside exposed to the elements. Am I going to get different readings depending on the temperature inside the storage tank related to the outside temperature?- gas could be contracted in the morning when it’s colder and expanded in the afternoon when it’s warmer? Cold contracted gas less pressure Warm expanded gas more pressure? Or maybe the manometer that I borrowed is suspect and may be in need of calibration. I just did order a manometer so I’ll will see what that tool provides Thank you
A new gas countertop stove was installed to replace a much older model. The new stove has its regulator screwed directly into the inlet pipe at the bottom of the stove which now blocks the complete closing of a nearby drawer. Is it safe/functional to insert a 90 degree gas pipe elbow and ~3-4″ inches of gas pipe between the stove inlet pipe and the regulator? In other words, I am hoping to change this gas line === > regulator>=stove inlet to this gas line === > regulator>==== || || stove inlet Thank you.