When installing exterior trim, it is essential to use the right size nails for a secure and stable attachment. The most common sizes of finish nails for door trim are 15-, 16-, and 18-gauge, with 16-gauge being the most popular. The size you choose will depend on the thickness of your trim and the type of wood. The best nails for trim are typically between 1 1/2-inch to 2 1/2-inch (4D to 8D nails).
Finish nails are designed for precision work, making them ideal for attaching exterior trim. They are thinner than common nails and have small, discreet heads. To replace exterior door trim, follow these steps:
- Choose the right size nails for door trim.
- Set the nails and fill them with exterior wood filler. Sand the filler with a sanding block after drying. Apply exterior-grade caulking around where the molding meets the siding using a putty knife.
- Use 2 1/2″ finish nails for exterior trim exposed to the elements. For protected work, like under a porch, use 16 ga galvanized nails.
- Use a hammer to sink the nails but not flush to avoid damaging the trim.
- Use a finish nailer (16 ga heavier nail) on the outer or thicker edge and a brad nailer (18 ga thinner nail) on the thin inner edge that gets hammered. Brad nails will hold the trims in place for a while, but finish nails are stronger and ideal for trim work.
In summary, choosing the right size nails for exterior trim depends on the material and type of wood. Hot-dip galvanized nails are a popular choice due to their heavy zinc coating and ability to withstand rust and corrosion.
📹 DON’T USE TRIM NAILS! Try These Instead…(TRIM HEAD SCREWS / TRIM SCREWS–Easy Woodworking Screws)
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What size nail for exterior window trim?
To install window trim, use a brad nailer to secure the trim to the top of the jamb, spaced 6 inches apart. Secure the inside edge of the trim to the jamb with 1-inch brad nails, and the outside edge to the drywall and frame with 2 1/4-inch nails. Avoid nailing closer than 2 inches to prevent splitting. Next, install the side trim pieces by cutting a new piece of window trim at a 45-degree angle and matching it to the mitre joint on the previous trim. Adjust the miter saw and trim the angle until it matches. Make multiple cuts as you “snake up” on the pencil mark with the mitre saw blade, checking the fit as you go.
What is the best fastener for exterior trim?
Stainless steel nails are the most suitable fastener for basic construction, such as building a box, and are used in framing and structural applications. Outdoor applications require stainless or galvanized nails, while finish nails are best for trim and molding, furniture assembly, and outdoor projects. Deck screws, coated to resist corrosion, are less expensive than stainless steel nails and are suitable for attaching deck boards and outdoor furniture.
Stainless steel screws are the best fattener for joints that will be subjected to multiple directions of force or extra weight, such as a bookshelf. They grip and bite into the wood, resulting in stronger and more secure joints. However, using nails in these situations can lead to substrates disconnecting. Overall, stainless steel nails are a cost-effective and reliable fastener for various construction projects.
What can I use to fasten exterior trim?
The area is susceptible to water infiltration, which may result in premature deterioration and rot. The area displays indications of being in a state of deterioration, yet further examination is necessary to ascertain its precise condition.
What size nails to use for door trim?
The 23-gauge nail is suitable for small painted or stained moldings, medium to small casings, chair rails, and low-profile crown molding. It provides 80 holding power of an 18 gauge and is suitable for medium to small casings, chair rails, and low-profile crown molding. The 16-gauge nail is suitable for outer nail on casings, base trim, and other large trim. The 15-gauge nail is suitable for outer nail on casings, base trim, and sturdy installation of door jambs, particularly heavy, solid-core doors.
For structural fastening, most fastening systems are dictated by code or architectural specifications, or the substrate manufacturer may designate specific fasteners for use with their product. Plans may call for a 6d nail, which is a denotation for pennyweight, and the “d” refers to the length of the fastener.
What kind of nails for exterior door trim?
Nails are essential tools for securing work pieces together, supporting structural hardware, standing up to the elements, and allowing easy concealment. They come in various types, such as bright nails, black phosphate, zinc-plated nails, hot-dipped galvanized nails, paint and decorative brass, bronze, and nickel plating, and vinyl coatings. Bright nails are untreated steel, suitable for interior use, while black phosphate is an indoor coating that creates good adhesion with paint and drywall mud.
Zinc-plated nails have some corrosion resistance, but are thin and best for indoor use. Hot-dipped galvanized nails are suitable for outdoor use due to their thicker zinc coating, but may not work well with certain wood species like cedar and redwood. Other finishes include paint, decorative brass, bronze, and nickel plating, and vinyl coatings on fasteners for nailers.
Can I use finish nails for exterior trim?
Finish nails are versatile and have a 15- or 16-gauge diameter, offering enhanced holding strength compared to brad nails. They can be obtained in collated strips or individual pieces and can be concealed with wood putty. Some finish nails come with exterior coatings, making them suitable for outdoor use. They are used in interior and exterior trim, window and door casings, chair rails, and securing baseboards, crown molding, stair treads, risers, and light carpentry and cabinet projects.
Brad nails are better suited for tasks like light decorative trim, molding, paneling, picture frames, and crafts like birdhouses. For more information on Brad vs. Finish Nails, visit a local Cardinal Home Center and a trained team associate can show you the options and tools for the best application.
What nails to use for exterior?
In terms of material preference, galvanized steel is the most commonly selected nail material, followed by aluminum, stainless steel, and copper. Although copper nails are more costly, they are preferred for their extended lifespan, making them suitable for slate roofs, which typically have a lifespan exceeding 100 years.
How thick is exterior door trim?
Home wood trim designs typically base on door casings, which are typically 2 ¼ inches wide and ½ thick. However, there is no specific rule dictating the size of these casings. Experimenting with different thicknesses and widths can create size and aesthetic contrast. Baseboards, more substantial than window and door casings, are often a significant part of the home’s flow. The average baseboard is ¾ inch thick, ranging from 3-5 inches wide. Industry-standard formulas are used for door, base, and crown-moulding casings, with the standard door casing being 2 ¼ inches wide.
However, these formulas are not written in stone and can be adjusted to fit personal preferences. It is essential to note that these formulas are not written in stone and can be adjusted to fit individual preferences.
What nail to use for trims?
Brad nails are thin fasteners used for indoor projects like trim, paneling, and moulding. They have a small diameter and smaller head, allowing for a seamless finish with less visible holes. The gauge (ga) indicates the diameter, with 18 ga and 23 ga being common sizes. Finish nails, or finishing nails, are ideal for cabinetry and fine carpentry projects, as they are strong enough to hold thicker materials like baseboard and kitchen or bathroom cabinets. Often 16- to 10-gauge, their small diameter reduces the risk of splitting wood. They can be nailed flush or countersunk, concealing them below the visible surface.
What is the preferred nail for fastening exterior finish?
Siding nails are designed to withstand the effects of weather and are therefore suitable for use on exterior building surfaces. In contrast, joist hanger nails are double-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails that can be used in both indoor and outdoor settings.
Should I use 16 or 18 gauge nails for trim?
An 18-gauge brad nailer is ideal for delicate trim work and woodworking projects, as it fires thin nails between 3/8-2 inches long. These nails are suitable for attaching casing to windows, door jambs, stop moldings, base shoes, cove moldings, and chair rails. The small head of the nails reduces splitting of thinner wood, making them suitable for intricate work. The 23-gauge pin nailer is designed for fine detail work, firing headless or small-headed pins, and is suitable for attaching mitered returns, securing moldings, adding decorative details, and installing beads and thin stops.
📹 My Favorite Nail Filler and How to use It
Showing my favorite nail fillers for paint grade projects. Thanks for watching! Dap Drydex: https://amzn.to/2MqmJU7 Plastic Wood: …
There are a lot of pros who watch this website so I realize this may be very basic to you. But there are a lot of DIY and entry level people who watch as well. For that reason I have been trying to cover the basics lately and get all of these questions answered! Thanks for perusal and let me know if you have any question!
Richard- we just went through this exact process with some custom shiplap- a lot of high end painter threads recommend MH Ready Patch, yet I like your products- You also might note if it’s important to prime patched nail heads before finish coating as I’ve heard stories of bleeding due to certain patching compounds whether alcohol based or otherwise
I’m a 70 year old widow who is trying to learn all kinds of home improvement info so I can do needed maintenance myself, as much as possible. You did a great job of explaining the product and demonstrating how to use it. Now, once the tub of it gets here from Amazon, I have nail holes to fill! Thank you!!
I’ve been away from the contractor field for over 15 years. I used DAP oil base filler that works great. For basic nail hole. I would make a prune size ball and press firmly into the nail hole and swipe in one direction and after swipe in the opposite direction. Having the same results as yours with no need to sand and no shrinkage.anything bigger I would use late filler, like your product. Have you ever use this product and your opinion. Thanks. George
Thanks for this great information. Not redundant for us new DIYers. I am applying bead board panels and used silicone caulk to fill the nail holes, and after drying, just spent a lot of time scraping it off since it wouldn’t sand successfully. I am on my way to the store to buy the Drydex.. Your article was helpful.
I just figured this out this morning, so glad to see you are sharing with other DIY folks. A rabbit chewed up the front of my daughter’s drawer, and I’ve been nervous about doing this, afraid I’d do it wrong. I started last night and used a putty knife, but this morning saw there were still several holes. I decided to use my finger and it was perfect! Wasn’t even sure if this was the “right” way, so again I say thank you!
8:10 I was wondering about whether you do a quick touch sanding with a sponge or flat sander on flat trim after the Drydex dries. It just seems like SOME residue would be left behind with just the finger technique, like you typically see when an amateur tries to “spackle” a small nail hole in a wall and leaves a mess because they don’t sand after it dries. This seems especially so, that on trim, which is going to have some degree of gloss to the paint, is going to clearly show off any imperfections. Otherwise, I’ve always used Dap glazing compound and even it seems to shrink just a little over time, enough to leave a small dimple. So I decided to search out something else. I will try this. I have used Drydex only once, but not for this type of application, it was for a small emergency sheetrock repair. A related question – what type of caulk do you use at the trim-wall interface? I’ve used various Dap products (their so-called fast dry is the absolute worst) and invariably have not been happy with the results for one reason or another, with shrinkage being the biggest problem. btw, when you mentioned to not use caulk for nail holes, you mentioned silicone caulk, which generally isn’t paintable anyway. Although I have never tried siliconized latex cault. Thanks, I enjoy your articles.
I love you articles but stick to carpentry. Not painting. DryDex does shrink! Wiping the DryDex completely off the way you are demonstrating will leave underfilled holes on all but the smallest of pinholes. If you look at your finished paint job in a raking light, you will see the underfilled dimples. On quality paint jobs we typically overfill the nail holes, sand the overfill and reputty 70 to 80 percent of the holes. All of this is done using using a hand held light at a rating angle to the work.
My wife, who’s never done woodwork, will watch your articles for hours LOL. Thanks for all the great tips. I love how you bring it down to my level & don’t assume I know the little stuff. For example spending time showing me exactly how to line up a measuring mark, or explain exactly what “setting a corner” means. Question: Another Youtube article said to use DAP Painter’s Putty, and not spackle as it requires sanding. Do you think I’d see any difference between the DAP Spackle you recommend vs. DAP Painter’s Putty? I like the sound of not painting later, but I’d really like to not see even a trace of nail holes, even if it’s just a texture difference. I pre-paint my trim then touchup later, in case that matters.
Try using two putty knives, one 1-1/2″ (that’s your finger ), and one 3″ (like a miniature hawk). I only use my finger if I absolutely have to, and yes, I absolutely have to use my finger on every job, but my putty knife gets 90 plus percent of the action. I can go through my trim work as fast as anybody with a ball of putty in their palm. Nail holes dry slightly convex…super light flush sand…and I’m coating. To each his own. 30 years in the biz, and counting…Damn…that made me feel old 🙂
I like your method. It is simple and basic. I have used the pink product for some time and I find that if you discover you have inadvertently left a small amount of excess filler after it dries, a damp terry cloth rag will easily and quickly take it off and no sanding is required. Great website. I have been perusal for a while and especially like your technique for gluing mitered corners. I am going to look for the name of the glue you used now. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
My favorite product on all my trim. Personally I use a damp rag just as its turning paler pink and it takes off the excess WITHOUT removing your fill PLUS it wont flash. If you leave ANY excess without wiping or sanding and then paint, it will definitely flash even with a paint conditioner like Flood
Love this vid & the way you made it. Was a funny vid….as I’ve seen ppl mess this step up, royally. Would think something so simple, & “common sense” (as it “IS”), would be easy to teach ppl to do, etc… But sometimes one person’s common sense; isn’t another person’s common sense 🤪. Been enjoying this series on your home remodel, thx for showing us👍🏻 Till next time✌🏼
The question I have is does it flash with your first coat of paint and do you need 2 coats over the spackle?I’m gonna try the dry dex. I’ve been using the lightweight spackle since it doesn’t shrink as well. It does flash when covered with satin or semigloss paint so it causes the need for 2 full coats of paint after.
Hi! I installed shiplap on a very large wall and have to have some seams in two places in the middle of the wall due to cutouts for the window that were too complicated for me to do on a 16 ft board. What would you recommend I use to fill a 1/4in seam in the middle of the wall to get the smoothest finish possible? I didn’t see any articles you have made on this topic but maybe I just didn’t see it. I have used silicone and it’s not the smoothest finish thus far.
Every nail hole I have seen filled using a finger, whether it’s drydex, wood filler, painters putty, etc. is always still visible after painting. Not saying yours looks like that, cause I like to think you take pride in your work. Most people that use their finger, are gonna make it concave, and always visible. I would definitely use a putty knife on flat surfaces. Sometimes, on the profile, a finger might be the only option, but if you can use a putty knife then use it. But wipe off the excess with the knife. Most of the time it swells a little, and you barely sand it.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. I am a very experienced diy’er with over 40 years of experience and still love learning about new products and ways of doing things differently. Your articles always provide me with other ways of looking at the issues we all deal with and a fresh perspective. I cannot thank you enough for producing such informative content. Cheers from Canada. 🥰
My husband and I are building a new home. The concrete, framing, siding, and roof we hired out, all the rest we are doing. So, as a 63 yo DIYer I appreciate the professional expertise and knowledge you provide on your website. Thanks for sharing your favorite materials and tips. Keep those articles coming, I’ll be perusal! KUDOS! from the building site in Omaha AR.
As a painter man I really appreciate your articles. I learn quite a bit. However, I do not prefer you hole filling method. It does not work for lacquering. The filler will suck into the hole and leave a divot once dry. You must pile it on and then sand before undercoating. With lacquer. Latex may, may fill it. Maybe not. Cheers and thanks.
Excellent products. Can I throw in two other “greats” I find myself going back to over & over? One is lightweight Fast-n-Final (this stuff is so light you’ll think you’re buying air!) – it’s great because it dries fast & really light so that you can use it on a punch list day on your way out the door and maybe not even have to paint over it. The second is Ready Patch. This stuff is AWESOME. Interior or exterior. An amazing filler that really stands up.
I’ve been perusal you for years, and had to go back to this for the new shed we put in. Funny how the easy things are overlooked by the experts. I often find myself taking the simple things for granted when talking to people outside my field of expertise. You just assume people know the easy stuff already. Now I have to ask if you use this inside but something else outside.
Wow. this is the best article I’ve ever seen for filling small nail holes. I’ve been filling nail holes every time I move and I never do a really good job so, as soon as I watched this article I tried this technique and the method worked so well I made nail holes in a scrap piece of wood to practice on. It’s almost impossible to believe how simple and effective this method is for filling nail holes. Sanding with your bare finger really works, it’s almost like magic. Thanks a million. I’ve already told a friend about this article.
Homie, if you’re not leaving enough filler on the hole that it needs to be sanded, then you’re just not putting enough. You’re dimpling the filler with your finger. It may not be a ton, but its not going to be invisible the way it would be if you overfilled and sanded. Yeah it’s more time and effort, but if you want top level quality, it’s a must. Taking the extra step of sanding sucks, but skipping it is a sketchy move. And I agree, the drydex is the best. Consistency is great, it’s super workable. And the best part- it sands SUPER nice and easy.
I used the pink on a few inside miters…not too bad a joint, but just enough to catch the eye. (Came with the house). Anyway, I have a small assortment of artist’s spatulas that I used to clean and smooth out the joints after applying the filler. I’d recommend having a couple in your mixed bag of tricks. You can find them at most craft and hobby stores.
QUESTION? Have you ever installed prefinished crown. I recently had to install 5 1/2″ prefinished crown. I found it was not possible to get the miters perfect and I ended up buying a gallon of conversion varnish, masking everything and spraying all the crown. I do a lot of prefinished crown over kitchen cabinets but 5 1/2″ was beyond my skill level for doing prefinished crown. In the end it turned out great but it’s the first and last time I will ever do it.
If you paint that with a semi-gloss, you will see every hole, with the method you suggest. I always fill twice and then sand. Yes, you don’t need globs of filler, but if you don’t sand and paint over it, it triples the amount of work to fix it. Trust me, Iv’e had to fix many other peoples mistakes, not just mine.
I have a question. You normally spray your moldings? The reason I ask is I went ahead and sprayed the entire batch of “uninstalled” base molding (in the garage on sawhorses) for my house because I was learning how to use my Fuji sprayer. They came out beautifull! If I install them carefully can I get away with filling with a window glaze or even your method and just “dab” paint afterwards….instead of repainting the entire baseboards??? If I go back and brush everything it won’t look as good. Let me know your comments.
As you said, ‘simple process’, so I don’t want to over complicate it. However, what do think about filling several holes, maybe over two or three feet, then lightly wiping with a damp natural sponge? One of those sponges that looks like a real sponge from the ocean. I don’t get it too wet or press too hard as you don’t want to push the filler out of the holes.
That patch does shrink . Maybe not much, but it DOES shrink ! And your finger DOES indent ever so slightly into the hole . If you must use that product, use a 1 inch putty knife to force the patch into the hole and wipe the excess off tight . Every nail hole should get 2 coats, sometimes larger diameter holes need 3 coats . There are no short cuts . A perfect finish is perfect, if you go through all the time to do nice trim work, why short cut the simple stuff ! I use MH Ready Patch on trim and drywall . I use a 6 inch knife to hold a golf ball sized amount of patch on, and I use a 1 inch knife to apply . Again, forcing in, wiping tight, at least two coats, then sand the entire trim all together with 150 . Vac the dust, prime the whole trim, then caulk, then paint . There are NO SHORTCUTS !
Please avoid using precious skin and finger for these chemically made products. And inspired from your way some people will make their helpers ( new guys) use their fingers or they will send them home !!! Once I used to work with that kind a animal who made me do things with fingers and nails . Thank you
Bondo is way faster and has a plastic state when you can shape The hold power vastly exceeds anything else out there. It also takes stain better than anything. The only trick is to use a white hardener. I don’t have the part number because it takes so long to use up. It’s really hard to sand so make sure you scrape it flush when it in the plastic phase. Also you can leave the lid off for a ling time because it doesn’t set with out the hardener
Hi over here in the uk a trick I learnt when working in sensitive places in hospitals where larger areas were needing filler, we used a Damp cellulose decorating sponge to wipe excess of so as not to get any dust in the wards or sensitive rooms, Our nail hole filler was Red Devil, used to use polyfilla made by Polycell, though they changed formula, especially the exterior type. Now needs an alkaline primer
You have referred us to the DAP Plastic Wood, but you’re not helping us understand what it can or cannot do. For example, when I grew up, the plastic wood products weren’t stainable nor could they hold a screw. That might be case with the DAP Plastic Wood, too, but you never discuss it in those or other terms.
This was one of my questions thank you. When I do crown it’s hard for me to just run all long pieces. If I look at a room and cut all the corners first then run straight pieces seems to go a lot easier. If I try and cut a long piece with a 45 in side and try and match it up always gives me so much trouble. Just wondering if that’s how you do it to thank you
I know you’re a carpenter, and not a finishing guy. But you should definitely rethink smoothing the excess filler off with your finger. Smoothing it down without/before sanding is always going to round the filler down into the hole. Not necessarily a lot, but it does lower that surface down. There is one way, and one way only to fill a hole or imperfection and make it 100% disappear, and that is to overfill it and sand it flat. It definitely takes longer, but when you need the best finish you can get, that’s what you have to do.