Titebond II and III are exterior-use-friendly glues, with Titebond II being the best due to its water resistance and waterproof quality. Titebond I is not suitable for exterior use as it lacks water resistance. Titebond II is ideal for outdoor or high-moisture projects, such as indoor furniture, cabinets, and interior woodwork, due to its excellent strength and water resistance.
Titebond 3 is better suited for projects that will be exposed to light. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof. All Titebond 1, 2, or 3 types of glue can be successfully painted over without the need for a primer. Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is the only leading brand, one-part wood glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification, making it ideal for exterior woodworking.
However, bonding surfaces that have been painted or stained is never recommended due to the glue’s design to bond to wood and may not bond well. Titebond II Premium is rated for outdoor use but not recommended for exterior use due to slight softening of the adhesive with water. Instant Bond is designed for interior/exterior use but is not recommended for exterior use due to slight softening of the adhesive with water.
Titebond II Premium is an all-purpose glue suitable for indoor and outdoor projects, FDA approved for indirect food contact. It offers superior strength and excellent water resistance, making it the perfect choice for interior and exterior woodworking. However, it dries with a slight yellow color, not suitable for outdoor use.
In summary, Titebond II and III are excellent all-purpose glues for both indoor and outdoor projects, offering superior strength and water resistance.
📹 The Surprising TRUTH about Wood Glue
Titebond II is the most popular wood glue used by most youtube woodworkers BUT is it actually the best? In this video i’ll be …
Which Titebond for outdoor?
Titebond II Premium is our top-selling wood glue, suitable for both indoor and outdoor woodworking projects. It passes the ANSI/HPVA Type II water-resistance specification, offers a short working time, and is FDA approved for indirect food contact. Titebond III Ultimate is our most versatile glue, rated 1 by professionals, offering superior strength, longer open time, and lower application temperature.
It passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I specification, making it “waterproof” and ideal for outdoor woodworking projects like birdhouses, mailboxes, outdoor furniture, and planters. It’s FDA approved for indirect food contact, making it ideal for kitchen projects.
Can Titebond 2 be used outside?
Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is a highly regarded, single-component wood adhesive that meets the ANSI Type II water-resistance standard, making it an optimal choice for exterior woodworking endeavors such as furniture and birdhouses.
Will Titebond adhere to paint?
Titebond Wood Glues are designed to bond bare wood, but they may work for gluing painted or stained surfaces. However, the overall bond strength depends on the bond between the paint and the wood. To ensure a strong bond, all substrates should be clean of any paint, stain, or sealer. When gluing, use masking tape to cover parts that will be stained later, as the “squeeze out” of the glue joint may make it difficult to stain. This will prevent the areas around the joint from being soaked in the glue, ensuring that the sections masked are free of stain-resisting glue when removed.
Will wood glue hold on paint?
The text posits that wood glue will bond paint together, rather than wood. Therefore, if the area where wood glue is to be applied is painted over, the strength of the bench may be compromised. It is unclear whether wood glue should be used as the bonding agent or if an alternative product would be more appropriate.
Does wood glue hold up outside?
Polyurethane is a durable wood glue suitable for both indoor and outdoor projects due to its waterproof properties. It dries a natural-looking color and can be sanded down, painted, or stained. It cures in water, so it requires wetting the wood surface before application. Cyanoacrylate (CA), also known as “super glue”, is used for small repairs due to its speedy curing process. It creates a hard, plastic-like bond when dries, but can adhere to skin in seconds. Gel-style CA is available for better adhesion. Both types of glues have their uses in various applications, including wood, plastic, stone, metal, ceramic, foam, glass, concrete, and fabric.
What is the best adhesive for outdoor use?
Loctite PL Premium is a robust, waterproof, paintable, and cold-curing adhesive that exhibits superior adhesion to common construction materials, rendering it suitable for both interior and exterior applications.
Can I glue wood to a painted wall?
Osvalld is told that sticking load-bearing items to paint won’t work, as the bond between wood and paint won’t fail, but the bond between paint and plaster will. The plan will fail, as the paint will stick to the back of the wood when it falls off the wall. The speaker is expressing curiosity about alternative adhesives that can penetrate paint and stick to plaster, or scraping the paint off. They are referring to a YouTube video of a beautiful blond woman gluing a mirror to a wall. The speaker acknowledges the conundrum of using adhesives like CT1 on painted walls and suggests exploring alternative options.
Which adhesive is best for outdoor?
Polyurethane caulking is a waterproof and flexible glue that works on both porous and non-porous materials. It is particularly effective for securing non-porous materials in exterior applications, especially for plastics and sheet metal parts. Its squishy nature allows for a closer bond between components. Polyurethane caulking is particularly useful for joining seams in aluminum fascia, as it eliminates the need for face nails, creating a cleaner appearance with less chance of buckling and waviness from heat expansion. Although less common since 2012, it remains a valuable and affordable option.
What is the best glue to stick wood to painted wood?
Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glue is widely considered the strongest woodworking glue due to its safety, affordability, and water-resistant properties. However, it may not perform well in extreme weather conditions. Other wood adhesives, such as polyurethane, are more suitable for specific needs and are known for their versatility, resistance to water and heat, and expansion during curing. Excess polyurethane can be difficult to remove.
What is the best wood glue for outside?
When selecting the best wood glue for exterior doors, it is crucial to choose a high-quality, waterproof glue that can withstand various environmental conditions. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is an excellent choice due to its waterproof, weatherproof properties and strong bond that can withstand temperature and humidity changes. It is FDA-approved for indirect food contact, indicating its safety and durability. Gorilla Wood Glue is another reliable option, as it is water-resistant and forms a strong bond suitable for both interior and exterior applications.
Franklin International 1414 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is a preferred choice for outdoor projects, making it well-suited for exterior doors. DAP Plastic Wood-X All-Purpose Wood Filler with DryDex is a good choice for filling gaps and voids in exterior doors, providing a strong and weather-resistant solution. Epoxy resin is another option for exterior doors, known for its durability and resistance to moisture and temperature changes.
To ensure the best results, prepare surfaces clean, dry, and free from contaminants. Apply the glue evenly to both surfaces, using clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying times and environmental conditions. After the glue has dried, consider finishing the exterior door with a weather-resistant sealant or paint for additional protection.
How waterproof is Titebond 2?
Titebond III is a waterproof wood glue that is designed for outdoor projects, unlike Titebond II, which is merely water-resistant. Titebond II is rated as “waterproof” by Franklin International and is suitable for both interior and exterior applications, but not for continuous immersion or use below the water line. It is ideal for outdoor furniture, birdhouses, and planters.
Titebond III is waterproof, passes ANSI/HPVA Type I water resistance standards, and is not designed for continuous immersion or use below the water line. It is a better choice for outdoor projects exposed to moisture. The longer set time of Titebond III (8 minutes versus 5 minutes) is appealing for intricate glue-up procedures.
The author tested Titebond III before deciding if it was the best choice for outdoor projects. They found that an ANSI/HPVA Type I rating means the bond is waterproof, while an ANSI/HPVA Type II rating means the bond is water-resistant. The newer Titebond III is priced about 3 dollars more than the old Titebond II.
📹 Woodworker’s Guide to Titebond Glue
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Thanks for this article! I like to add two products I am using a lot (no, I am not the manufacturer ;)): Bison (or Griffon, its the same) wood max and wood max express (in Dutch “hout max”). Great when there is some sort of a gap and perfect for constructive jobs. Once you used this type of glue, you never go back to polyurethane glue. Extremely strong and no airbubbles like the pu (bad for strength) You might want to check/test this out. Keep up the good work, like your article’s. John, the Netherlands.
Excelente información de cada uno de los tipos de adhesivo TiteBond. En general solo uno el Ultimate III, pero a veces uso el No-run, No-drip. Cuando pasa el tiempo y se pone grumoso, se puede agregar hasta un 5% de agua limpia, de preferencia caliente. Lo mismo al limpiar la boquilla, agua caliente funciona mejor. Gracias por toda la información, un article ameno. Un saludo desde Guatemala.
I always bump the bottle on the bench then squeeze it and let the air suck in any glue that remains on the tip then close the top. Otherwise you can end up with glue in the gap between the lid and the spout. I do the same thing with the “super-glue” stuff to keep a good tip on the glue bottle. Guess you could say I burp the bottle. 🙂
Great article as always. Here’s what Titebond’s Bob Benke told me a few years ago re: their cryptic EXP. date code & some other neat bits of info. My local Ace hard ware had lots of Titebond on sale, but decoding their date codes, I realized they were all 1-4 years old bottles: TITEBOND / FRANKLIN INTERNATIONAL Date code: ex A41201XX: A= American / USA-made 4= 2014 01= DEC 01 XX= BATCH# XX SHELF LIFE: Good TWO years min., but up to FOUR or more; Refrigerated will last 10 years! Titebond II as waterproof, but Titebond III can tolerate 180F and above (beyond boiling/dishwasher) Titebond III gels when bad, looks like cottage cheese; if it comes out and looks creamy, it’s good; can add 5% water if it gets thick.
So… I have a question… Can you use WOOD GLUE for things other than wood? I’m looking for something that would work easily with tongue and groove vinyl laminate flooring, to glue the tongue and groove pieces together, and it DOESN’T have to be a structural hold, it’s mainly just to keep the 2 pieces from separating from light moving around, and pulling it out or putting it into, a small cabinet (10 inch wide shelves made from laminate flooring)… I have some titebond 2 around and was wondering if that would work good enough on that, and if it would work on a couple of other pieces as well, that are wood laminate flooring that’ll be used for the same purpose. Basically, it’s all just scrap wood/vinyl, and i don’t have any excess money to spend… I guess I could buy some cheap superglue if that would work better, but if i don’t have to, I don’t want to…
Man I wanna get my hands on some of that dark glue! I’d have to order it as stores locally only carry original, II and III. I always used Titebond II for everything. I’ve definitely noticed temperature has a lot to do with dry time. In the Texas summer, I can finish projects very quickly, glue ups are almost totally dry in 30 minutes or less, in the winter, I’ve had even small glue ups take 4 hours or more to dry up enough to keep working.
I am surprised that you only briefly touched on CA glues, I find they are probably the most useful glue for woodworking. I always keep some titebond 3, hide glue as well as gell and thin CA glues and an activator. I have tried the polyurethane glues but I find the foaming squeeze out always gets stuck in the woods pores, then the only way to get rid of it is to change the dimensions of the piece which is not acceptable in my opinion.
I make wood boxes and other wood accessories for tabletop games, and the two Titebond glues I currently use are Titebond II Extend, and Titebond Translucent (which you didn’t address). My thoughts and observations re: my experience vs. your article: 1) I find both Titebond II Extend and Titebond Translucent dry pretty translucent. Since I’m making boxes with lots of finger joints and tight spaces where it’s hard to clean up squeeze out, that’s important to me. 2) I find both these glues do a fine enough job adhering to pre-shellacked wood, which I do when customers order their products with shellac inside and out since it’s too difficult to get shellac into some of the small nooks & crannies of some of my organizing boxes and certainly too tight to sand those small spaces afterward. Now maybe that’s because I’m generous with the glue and fastidious with my clamp up, but I figured I should share. 3) Titebond Translucent is quite thick and viscous. Not sure it’s quite as much so as Quick & Thick (bought a bottle once but never got around to using it on a project) but far thicker than the Titebond II Extend. That said, they both dry about the same translucent color. 4) The Extend glues can result in a weird red staining reaction when finished afterward with amber shellac. For products where customers order exterior shellac finishing only, I apply the shellac after assembly. As I said above, I use Titebond II Extend where I need both unobtrusive squeeze out AND long open time. If some of that nearly invisible glue got smudged onto another surface of the wood and I didn’t notice it, it can make itself known when I apply amber shellac.
I have seen tests where Elders school glue wins the strength test over yellow glue. It’scertainly strong enough for most applications and gives you more assembly time. Liquid hide glue comes apart in humid and hot environment. Also, no yellow glue is good for outdoors. Use epoxy. Some applications, like musical instruments need resistance to creep. Scotch/hot hide glue or epoxy is preferable. For musical instruments, a very famous classical guitar builder with decades of experience, recommended the cheapest, white school glue as being as good as any. We probably over think some of this…
Such a great resource. Dispelled some common misconceptions I frequently see. People assume for a cutting board it has to be 3 for example. Or people just use 3 for everything. I’m on a tight budget so I save money wherever I can without sacrificing the integrity of the piece. If I can avoid the more expensive TB3… I definitely will. Dying the color was new to me though. Love that tip
Great info, thanks! I used gorilla brand poly glue once to glue 1×2 wood strips to the roof of an aluminum shed in a colder(about 10-15 Celcius) environment. After it cured, it held so well I could grab just the wood strip and it held my body weight just fine. Love the poly glue for tricky situations.
I bought this 1Kg glue more than 1 year ago and due to space issues and problems in the family I couldn’t use it and it was kept for a long time! Now I went to use it and noticed the formation of several lumps, balls that fall apart when squeezed, it’s not that pasty appearance! I did a test on 2 slats of hardwood 1.5 cm high and the glue continued to stick, even if I sawed off the glued slat halfway through, the glue remained!
I would disagree with your data regarding working time and Hide GLue. I have seen several resources say 25 minutes or more. Personally, when I have a difficult glueup, hide glue is the one I reach for, I have had great success with 20 – 30 minute glue ups. The 10 minutes listed in the spreadsheet, simply is not correct, even if it comes from the manufacturer.
I’ve been on titebond 50 for about 5 years now…that stuff holds like an absolute monster and it’s got a nice working time Original titebond for joints that aren’t “load bearing”. Titebond 50 for all the critical stuff. Your joints will survive the nuclear apocalypse. Stuff will be flying around everywhere, sure….but the wood will have broken before the glue joint 👍
You did not cover gluing with a gap. I have a 1949 guitar, I need to reattach the neck to. I can see there is quite a gap in some of the area, because of how thick the old glue was and it did not cover the whole area of the joint. Based on your article, I suspect your liquid hide glue would be best??? Please advise… Thanks…
Another cleanup tip (to go along with your “booger” comment): After use, sit the bottle upright for a minute or so to allow most of the glue to drain out of the cap. Then give a gentle squeeze to blow some air through the tip. This will clear most of the glue from the opening (akin to blowing your nose).
Something I discovered last winter (in SE Alaska), Titebond 1 will partially solidify in the cold and can’t be salvaged (gets chunky for lack of a better term). Titebond 2 survived the winter in my shed with no problems. Slightly longer set time, but I generally wrap up for the night when I get to a glue-up, so not a big deal for me
Great article. Thanks so much. Question to anyone listening. I live in Phoenix. Summers are a struggle. Therefore Titebond 3 used “quickly, but don’t hurry”, (stolen from the great John Wooden) my question is, winters here are great for working during the day. Nights get down to the high 30’s to low 40’s for the majority of time. If I do a glue up during the day and it sets for a few hours with warmer temperatures, will leaving it set overnight, below47 deg. affect the set up? Thanks so much. Regards to all, Jim
I also prefer the “scrape while gelatinous” clean-up. It’s a little more time consuming because you have to remember, but the damp cloth always makes more of a mess than necessary and scraping it away when it’s dry sometimes rips out some fibres. You can actually clean up polyurethane squeeze-out with acetone. Unlike the damp cloth, it doesn’t make a mess and takes away most of the glue, you may need to do it more than once though. But it winds up saving time, because cleaning up pu glue is a real pain, especially on pre-finished parts.
A major issue with gluing wood, that’s conspicuously absent from this article, is grain direction. There are situations where you have to join an end-grain surface, such as picture frame corners, and PVA glue doesn’t form much of a bond. On a really expensive ornamental frame, nailing from the outside isn’t an option, and filled holes would never be acceptable. The glue joint in this case needs to be better than just a secondary measure. CA would give a strong tight joint, but it lacks the necessary working time for aligning and strap-clamping 4 corners of a large frame. PU would give a strong joint and have sufficient working time, but even with a good clamp I’m concerned about it pushing the joint open. With these trade-offs in mind, what’s a better product for joining end-grain, when strength, tight precision, and a few minutes of working time are all required?
Don’t forget the biggest piece of advice to save money. If you start to do cutting boards, table tops, laminating plywood or other large glue ups regularly buy a gluebot and buy your glue by the gallon or 2 1/2 gallon size. It’s more cash up front but it’s so much cheaper than hitting up the BORG for half a dozen bottles once or twice a month. Edit: I’ve been team Titebond III all the way for years now. It’s food safe, water proof, super strong and has more than enough working time for most projects.
With Polyurethane glue it helps to tape off any areas you want to keep it away from, and use mineral spirits and a lint free cloth to wipe off any excess (not soaking wet), and repeat until it starts solidifying and less comes out of the joint; Paper towels and the like don’t work good at all here, so use an old t-shirt or other cloth. I never use Polyurethane on very porous woods unless I have a good amount to sand down after gluing, because you just can’t get it out of the pores as well, even when wet as other glues, and it will show. I wrote this before he got to the cleanup section where he mentioned the mineral spirits.
One thing to keep in mind is the short life of the hide glue. I have gotten bottles already passed good. The way to tell is to put a drop between your fingers and work it back and fourth to see if it gets sticky. You will see small strands bridge between your fingers. That means it’s still good. It it stays liquid it gone.
Great article covering the basics. One thing to note on the strength is that the strength listed is the strength needed to pull the parts away from each other in opposing directions. It’s not necessarily shear strength. I remember reading a post by someone who was supposedly a chemist that titebond original actually has more shear strength than titebond III. I don’t have anyway to confirm, but intuitively it made sense though as usually stronger things are more brittle and thus would be worse in shear. Likely the difference is not enough to matter anyways even if they are a 1000-2000lbs different as long as it’s greater than the wood. Just thought it was an interesting bit of info.
Excellent summary Mark, thanks for the SpreadSheet too i know you are a Tite bond Sponsored guy now but one thing i wanted to add about them Is i used their products professionally for over 20 years and they were always very helpful as well as standing behind their products so much that Tite Bond products were the only Wood Glues we used With the only exception of a few other specialty products that other companies produced and Tite bond did not at that time
I’ve started using home made hide glue for most of my interior projects, it’s got a pretty good history and it’s undoable. After that it’s using a Titebond III, epoxy or CA glue. However, I’m still very much a learner and I’ll probably give a different answer next week but it is good fun making your own glue.
The gentleman over at the Blacktail Studios website has been saying recently that he has gotten reports from a local woodshop which does a lot of work in walnut and from his subscribers about TB3 failing when gluing walnut. I take it you haven’t had this happen to you at all? He is recommending TB1 for walnut glue-ups.
I think you missed one very important factor : what if your glue up is a mess and you end up having glue on your cloth ? Well then with the original no problem, it’s water soluble even dry so you just put your cloth in washing machine and voila. With any other of those glue ? Well once dried your good for new cloth. If it’s a top dollar beautiful hand stitched leather apron ? Oups That’s the reason why i always use the original.
Great overview on glue. Strangely enough…. A Poly Construction Adhesive can do the same job as the regular poly glue with less cleanup. It’s also thicker. Loctite has a line of poly construction adhesive that they claim is like 10 times stronger than normal construction adhesives. I use it in high quality joints and tricky material joining all the time. I’ve even used it in teak cutting boards and glueing teak end grain to non porous surfaces. It’s surprisingly amazing stuff. It’s just super thick is all. I personally use Titebond 1, Titebond 3, and that Loctite non foaming construction adhesive for 99% of all my glueing.
Mark, I understand sponsorship, and I would agree that Titebond products are very good, but there is a disconnect between the title of the article and the actual article. “Guide to Glue” is pretty general and generic. The article was actually an extended ad for Titebond products only. Good information, but a bit disingenuous. Titebond isn’t the only company that makes good wood glues. Also, not all of the manufacturer’s specs match results of independent testing. James Wright did some very careful testing of a near-comprehensive variety of brands and types of glues about a year ago. Some of the results were surprising, and not in agreement with the manufacturers’ claims, including Titebond. You do a great website, and I believe that your articles are usually objective and unbiased. That’s why I’m a bit disappointed in this one.
It is too bad this article had to be based just on the sponsor’s recommendations. In independent testing, Titebond II and III always come out as being poor–to-terrible for exterior use. The bond just doesn’t last. For example, search for James Wright’s (Wood by Wright) comprehensive (and sponsor-free) wood glue test. Though Titebond II is his “go to” glue for interior applications (and II and III did well in his interior tests) he concludes: “All PVA glues, including the Titebond series, did very poorly in the exterior conditions. Several of the blocks from Titebond II and Titebond III did not even make it to the test as they fell off when being carried to the testing rig. The evidence was more than enough to convince me that from now on, in exterior conditions, I will be using epoxy or even CA Glue instead of the PVA glues.”