White ceiling paint is a popular choice for any room, whether it’s all-white or off-white. Top designers create uniquely soothing interiors by showcasing ceiling paint color trends in soft shades. Sticking with a white ceiling paint color can create an intimate atmosphere, while dark, moody colors can be used to create a soft, pale look.
Vibrant yellow on a ceiling can offer a bright, cheery feel and visually lift a space, while soft blue can add a soft contrast that feels like an expansive sky. Flat white is the perennial choice, but you can get creative with color by giving your ceilings a fresh coat of paint. A white ceiling makes smaller spaces feel larger and provides seamless color flow by sharing a similar undertone with the wall color.
For a clean, simple look, white ceilings are often the best choice for a room. Textured ceilings often suit white as color can draw the eye to them. Dark and moody hues, such as navy, dark brown, and even black, are currently trending when it comes to ceilings.
There are several reasons to paint a ceiling white: dark and moody hues, replicating the wall color with 25 intensity, and bright colors for a playful look. Dark colors like charcoal grays, navy hues, or chocolate-brown shades can create a dramatic, dramatic effect on rooms with white walls.
📹 Painted Ceilings- Bold Colours!
Have you heard the term, the ‘Fifth Wall’? Yup, that’s the ceiling. And guess what? It doesn’t HAVE TO BE WHITE! I have loads of …
Should ceilings be white or off white?
White ceiling colors can enhance a room’s character and provide a clean, simple look. They can offset intense wall colors, make the ceiling feel higher, and open up space in pale, space-expanding rooms. In rooms with limited natural light, white ceilings help boost perceived illumination by reflecting available light. To integrate a white ceiling into the scheme, add white elements in woodwork, carpet, draperies, and other fabrics. To choose the right white paint color, consider the undertones of the color.
Some companies offer a range of cool and warm whites, with faintly yellow or blue undertones that coordinate with the room’s color palette. Adding white elements in woodwork, carpet, and draperies can make the room feel more balanced.
Should ceilings always be white?
White ceilings enhance natural and artificial lighting, but they can create a stark contrast in dark-colored rooms, which may not suit everyone’s taste and affect the room’s ambiance. A white room with white ceilings may appear monotonous, requiring the addition of colorful accents, patterns, or textures to add depth and character. The decision to paint your ceiling white depends on personal preferences, home style, and the specific room being decorated.
White ceilings offer advantages like brightness, versatility, and timeless appeal, but may not be suitable for every situation due to lack of drama, maintenance requirements, and contrasting effects in certain design schemes.
Why not paint a ceiling white?
White ceilings require more maintenance than other colors due to their resemblance to dirt, stains, and discoloration over time. Regular cleaning and touch-ups may be necessary to maintain their appearance. White ceilings enhance natural and artificial lighting but can create a stark contrast in dark-colored rooms, potentially affecting the room’s ambiance. In some cases, a white room with white ceilings may appear monotonous, requiring the introduction of colorful accents, patterns, or textures to add depth and character.
Are dark ceilings a good idea?
Dark ceilings can visually alter a room’s size, creating an illusion of infinite height or a more intimate environment. This is particularly beneficial for those living in high ceiling spaces. A painted ceiling enhances decorations and adds a sense of luxury. Natural light gives accessories a glowing glow, while reflective décor like chandeliers or lamps adds a luxurious touch. Painting walls and ceilings the same color adds a sophisticated look, while white trims add contrast. Overall, dark ceilings can create a unique and visually appealing space.
Are you supposed to paint the ceiling the same color as the walls?
Painting ceilings and walls the same color can be a cost-effective and efficient way to create a cohesive look. It can make the ceiling appear higher, avoid choppy walls, and create a cozy atmosphere in large rooms. However, there are some drawbacks to using the same color for both walls and ceilings. For example, it can make the room appear closed-in or small, especially without natural lighting. It may also be too bold or bright for a bold or contrasting look, create a caved-in effect if no other color is used, or look monotonous or boring.
Ultimately, the choice between using different colors depends on personal preference and the overall aesthetic appeal of the space. Ultimately, the choice should be based on personal preference and personal preference.
What is the best color for the interior ceiling?
White paint reflects light more easily than darker paint, making it ideal for rooms with high lighting needs, such as living rooms and primary living areas. Dark colors, such as grey or blue, create a rich and elegant atmosphere, perfect for cozy and professional rooms. Dark shades complement natural wood paneling or beams, making them an excellent choice for rooms with natural wood paneling or beams. Dark colors are also suitable for home offices and libraries, as they create a more sophisticated and elegant design aesthetic.
Should the ceiling be lighter or darker than the walls?
To increase lighting in a dimly-lit room, use a lighter shade on the ceiling, typically 20 lighter than the walls. If the room is naturally sun-drenched, the same color can be used on the walls and ceiling. Paint finishes include flat, matte, satin, semi-gloss, and high-gloss, which range from flat to shiny. Matching the finish on both walls and ceiling is easiest, as it ensures consistency across the space. However, in some cases, it may be better to contrast the finish but keep the color the same, with semi-gloss on the walls and trim and flat on the ceiling.
What color makes ceiling look higher?
Paler walls are better for low ceilinged rooms, but darker colors on the bottom half of a wall can make the ceiling feel taller. This “color blocking” approach adds depth and interest to walls. Wall-framing is a trend that adds decorative elements, frames artwork, and key room elements, such as a sofa, while also adding symmetry. Irene Gunter, founder of Gunter and Co., believes it’s a great way to frame artwork and add a decorative element to a room.
Are white ceilings outdated?
In modern and minimal décor, a white ceiling is ideal, with traditional whites like Earthborn’s White Clay being more flattering than pure brilliant white. However, ceilings are often overlooked in decorating a room. They have historically held more prominence in interior design, with period homes featuring ornate cornicing, decorative roses, mouldings, plasterwork friezes, and embossed patterns. High ceilings in Georgian and Victorian houses are often used to make the room feel less cavernous.
Painting the ceiling and wall area above the picture rail can help create a more inviting atmosphere, while also allowing for bolder color choices. For example, Crocky Road paired with Milk Jug can create a visually appealing and inviting atmosphere. In summary, ceilings play a crucial role in interior design, and their color scheme can greatly influence the overall aesthetic.
What color ceiling makes a room look bigger?
To make a small room feel larger, use lighter colors like white and cream, pastels, and light neutrals in gray and taupe. A monochromatic color scheme can create a cohesive feel by selecting different shades and textures of a single color. Paint the moulding white on the bottom half of the room, and pull in the same color through flooring, textiles, and accessories for a streamlined look. This will make the room feel less choppy and create a cohesive experience.
What color should I paint my ceiling to make it look higher?
Applying a ceiling coating of the same hue as the walls can create the illusion of a greater ceiling height, even in a room with a predominantly dark ambiance. However, it is essential to ensure that the room is illuminated by an adequate amount of natural or artificial light to prevent the ceiling from absorbing excessive light.
📹 HOW TO paint ceilings FAST and like a professional PAINTER
5 professional painting tips to help you paint your ceilings like a professional painter and very fast. DIY painting tips. Come watch …
Ive been painting for about 10 years now and i bought an 18 inch roller yesterday and i used it today and i swear i used it for the first time and as soon as i used it i got so pissed for not buying one earlier WHAT A LIFE CHANGER ITS JUST SO FLIPPING AMAZING it get heavy a little bit when you start using it on ceilings but i just fell in love all over again😍😍😍 i hope my wife wont read this😂😂
This great website I’m so impressed with the traffic on it ! I been painting all my life. I’m 40 and I just started my business last year. I found out the last ten years power washing is my passion . I have a hot water trailer set up, all low pressure soft wash on houses. Super easy . so I have my painters come behind me and paint after I clean . moral to this story is perusal that guy roll that ceiling brings back awful memories and I’m so glaad I don’t have to adjust a roll poll any longer lmao . thank you ! Great website !
Great job guys and I can’t wait to use the new roller to cut in with. At age 67 I still like to roll my work out with an 18 in roller when I can. Get the ceiling done and take a longer break with the time I saved. Lol As a handyman I get to do a lot of different jobs and painting about 12 townhouse’s a year. Keep up the quality work. Tks for the tips. Jack the Handyman
The ceiling roller used to cut in is a bit large and could show lap marks even with flat paint. Careful there! Gotta keep the wet edge. I use a mini size roller (3/8 nap) similarly but it only cuts out about 5 inches instead of nine. The thing I noticed here was that the drips coming down on your walls with the ceiling paint need to be brushed out while wet or they become a problem for the top of your walls if the drips dry up. The second room that was finished already that you showed as an example – had drips and gobs of paint coming down onto your walls that had to be setting up and drying. I brush that out immediately and never have an issue..The mini rollers are a better solution for cutting in this way in my humble opinion. Great vid …thanks..
Small suggestion and one of my pet peeves; don’t let your guys put the wet 18″ roller wet side on the walls… you will have to sand that down so it doesn’t telegraph thru your wall finish at the end. AND when smashing the ceiling paint into corners is a great idea you have to brush out your drips running down the walls, it takes five seconds to lay it off. (You can see dripping from the roller slamming into corners. Good luck and I like the articles
Honest to goodness at 56 I’m a single mom trying to paint my daughters bedroom..Oh I’ve painted before but I really wanted to do a good job but since I’m not planning on painting much else (maybe) I didn’t want to spend hundreds of dollars on her 10×12 room. One crack in the ceiling and here I am looking at so much more about painting than I ever considered. Again, I WANT to do this the right way the first time. I want HER to know she can do these things on her own..WELL! I really appreciate the education you provide on your website! I realize there are probably thousands of choices on YouTube but you were very CLEAR in your explanations, entertaining AND had a bible verse from Jeremiah. That’s gonna win me ANY day!! Thank you!! Wish me luck!
THANK YOU! Between advice from my dad and perusal your articles, my ceiling came out wonderful. I watched about 15 of your articles and I will say that they were beyond helpful. I did know different types of paint brushes existed, but I never knew what they were used for and I always bought the cheapest supplies. WOW what a difference in purchasing the correct supplies made and thank you for showing me how to cut in. I have previously painted rooms before and did absolutely everything in the wrong order and wrong direction. No wonder it looked horrible. Loved how you demonstrated twisting the brush and roller to prevent drippage (it really works and I am not wearing 1/2 the can of paint like I usually do.). I am confident in how to cut in the wall without getting the wall paint on the ceiling. So walls are next so wish me luck!
First rookie move I’ve seen this guy do, is lay his wet roll on the walls thats a “never do” thing. Unless you burn the edges. cringe must have been one of the newbies. Second rookie mistake is stop your rolling to give a camera interview or any distraction, once you’ve started you have to continue consistenly wet-dry
A true flat sheen is optimal, —knowing that all acrylic builds sheen. So if you can find one your ahead of the curve……….mostly only have ever been able to find available as an exterior acrylic. Designed specifically for concrete/ stucco….Miller paint used to have one called ‘Kril coat’—-that is absolutely chalkboard flat. And fairly easy to apply. Love that stuff.
also remember 2 coats always on interior painting….a lot of my customers are telling me they buy 1 coat paint….which is a lie by paint manufactures…..I try and tell them….that any painting jobs require 2 coats…ups the price of labor…..as for ceilings too….always 2 coats….1st one way….2nd the other way…..and also do cut ins around light fixtures first….wet on wet..
What would you do if you have to caulk wood strips around your ceiling first, and then paint over these lattice strips? I have 4’x4′ pattern with about 15 huge squares on my ceiling. I’d love to spray it, but I have way too much furniture and things on the walls that I can’t wrap or cover up. Do I caulk all the seams around the wood first, and then paintbrush the wood – then roll the inner square part? I haven’t even begun on this project because I know it’s going to be a lot of work up and down a ladder. Any tips or ideas?
Ok, so I’ve been a painter for some time and I always cut in the walls to ceiling first. 2nd I’ll cut around all light vents and ceiling fans. 3rd I’ll feather with a 9″ roller appx. 9″ from each ceiling fixture. Finishing up with the right direction to trick the eye to follow the light flow of the room. 4th using a 9″ with a 1/2″ nap load with flat latex is a challenge in it self. Never let the roller become to dry and keep moving with a feathered overlap. Rolling is always fast but adding the weight of a 18″ roller with hardware and the pole becomes a bit challenging for a beginner looking to be a speed paint, because to this day with the strength I have and the skill I have my suggestion to beginners is to always paint with patients
Overall not bad. Particularly the advise of using a dead on flat. Should point out if you go around the parameter with the 9″ to feather the edge into the room or you may have a weird line of dried paint around the entire parameter where it dried before you could hit it with the 18″ I’ve seen this many times. Also. while I like the idea of painting the vents, older ones in particular that have yellowed. I discourage people from painting over the newer ones if they are already white. If you really think they need to be painted I would more readily advise painting them with a closely matching enamel would be preferable because while the flat paint to match the ceiling initially looks aesthetically pleasing upon completion. The vents, especially the intakes tend to get dirty over time, and with the flat paint on them they can become nearly impossible to clean and keep clean because the flat ceiling paint doesnt typically wipe well without leaving smears and smudge stains
Firstly, let me say, I really appreciate the great trade advice you guys give out, so, it’s a thumbs-up from me on that score. However, and I appreciate you may well accuse me of being pedantic on this score, but to me, if you’re looking South through a window and there is light coming in through a window on your right hand side, then that direction is West and not, as stated (4.12), East.
You should really remove everything from the ceilings and walls like vents and sensors etc when you do this yourself. The “pros” don’t don’t do this because time is money and their goal is to get in and get out as soon as possible so they will leave these things and cut around them which is sloppy work. If you are a DIY, remove everything and install it back for a job you can be proud of.
Chris, are you guys still using eminence for ceilings ? If you are, I would encourage you to try SW’s CHB flat on one of your jobs. This stuff awesome. HVAC guys put their dirty hands all over my brand new ceilings. I rolled over the spot and no lap marks or flashing even with the light hitting the room. It touches up and blends in better than any paint iv ever used. I had to kilz a water stain on ceiling at a different job. I thought for sure I had to re paint the whole ceiling over again. But CHB flat blended in perfectly again and saved me so much time. It’s cheaper than eminence also. Thanks for the articles
Eminence doesn’t compare to even the Pro-Mar ceiling paint. Eminence in the old formula was good but not any longer. CHB and Masterhide from SW are great. PPG’s ceiling paint is too. All nice dead flat ceiling paint. If you want Pro-Mar 400 is flatter than Pro-Mar 200. Great ceiling paint covers well, doesn’t spatter much, and is dead flat
Hi Chris – love your website, It’s my first time using SW Eminence on my ceiling, and after applying two coats I still had flashing. I tried a third coat, and while flashing is reduced, I still have a good amount. I have been DIY painting for 15+ years and have been following your technique since and usually get very good results. Could this be the paint? Or the fact that a SW Oil based primer was used? Thanks
I am not a painter but I am a decent DIYer. Today I painted my kitchen ceiling which is 15 years old, builder grade white paint. Very Very Dry. I used three coats of the cheap Behr ceiling paint. It still needs another coat. Ridiculous! I am almost 50 years old, I have painted all my homes over the years myself, I can not recall a ceiling ever taking me so long. Is it the paint or the painter? I am not throwing the paint on like mad as I have to be careful. Am I being too skimpy on the paint or does this paint really just not work well. Or is it the excessive dry ceiling? Shoulders burning, back at it tomorrow. Let me know some comments.
Yay, now I don’t have to go along my ceiling edges with a brush or pad, I can just roll the edges. Since we’re staying in our home and I’m putting border up on the walls it won’t matter if paint gets on the wall anyway. We don’t plan on ever selling our home, but if we do I can just re-paint the walls or touch them up. Still wondering how on earth Michealangelo did that amazing ceiling. My arms hurt just thinking about it.
First off, too many steps!, why cut in the ceiling with a 9″ sleeve when you have to cut in the vents and smoke detectors with a brush?? Second, your leaving a hell of a build up of ceiling paint on the walls, i don’t see you wiping that off! Drips and all. Look just cut in with a brush and use a 1/2″ nap. There is so much wrong in this article, ill just start with that!
I have yet to see a tool that can beat a 2″ sash brush for cutting in corners. You have to follow any of those gadges with a brush to feather the edge or the line will show. I’m sure the wall looks like ass where the end of the roller swirled the paint around. You didn’t dare show it. Just put paint on the brush and leave the toys at the store.
I worked with an idiot. Every time we would roll walls he would dip then put the roller 12 inches from the top angle then roll. He would have a glob of paint hwe couldn’t do anything with. Every time, dip then put the roller on the wall close to the ceiling. I kept telling him you cant push the paint up, so start lower. He never got it. People who dont understand the” w “should not be painting. There is no straight up and down. If you paint like that stop, and look for a new job. Leave it to us professional’s. I have airless spray rigs, 18 inch rollers, air brushes, and i am the king of painting. Any picture in the world, i can put it in your wall, car, garage, or anywhere you choose. I paint and restore old cars. Everyone thinks they are painters. Most of these guys who paint houses have no clue when you stick them on a bridge. Painter my ass
Great article, and thanks for not having background music or long intro. If I understand correctly, your paint direction is perpendicular to the most common sightline. Good tip on the rollers and 3/4″ nap as well. I’m tempted to paint my ceiling but am not keen to remove my light fixtures (garage). Do I need to remove the light fixtures, or is that only to reduce the amount of edge cutting I have to do? Thanks!
Flat paint on air vents, flat will let dust collect quicker and requires. Ore frequent cleaning, I suggest a matching satin enamel. Rolling in the wrong direction based on light source. That corner roller is garbage., leaves a swirl texture on the wall that must be brushed out making more work/ time. 3/4 nap is to heavy . 1/2 nap ideal Sorry but that’s how we’ve been doing it since 1890
I don”t understand why the couple air vents on the ceiling was not removed? the resessed lights obviously was, it would been much easier to roll the roller over the whole ceiling without having air vents in the way as the painter was trying to be careful stopping painting a square around each air vent are you kidding me?… it would had only taken minute to remove each one of these vents & a clear pass with the roller over the vent hole & to think without doing it leaving the vents up you had to brush around each vent taking even more time when again vents could been removed to avoid all the hassle & bet that the vents got paint on them & seeing brush strokes around the vent framing.. as a pro painter myself you had gone about this completely wrong & recommend that you correct your approach of how to prep before painting ceilings by removing everything from the ceilings for a pristine professional look which is expected by the customer..
When you use that covered end roller sleeve to basically cut it in, are you doing anything about the walls side? Do you have someone coming immediately after with the brush to feather it out? I can see in the article that there are drips rolling down the wall from it and I can imagine that it would leave marks on the wall side if just left alone to dry without being feathered out. Also, off topic but still don’t understand, why wouldn’t you guys just take the five minutes to pop out the vent covers and grills on the ceiling so you can just paint it with the roller and not have to cut it in? And if you are going to cut it in, why aren’t you doing it before you roll it out?
I’d still put the drop cloths down. I know, I know, removing them… but still it’s part of being professional. Clients don’t wanna see that. It’s about perfection and Technique… The speed will come later. If you don’t know how to roll it properly and you don’t know the proper technique being able to do it fast it’s just going to equal fast sloppy and “eh” work. What? Rolling edges?? Gtfo
Need to show him rolling it out and get the whole process bc it changes as you roll depending how it’s drying do a update on a ceiling 15*20 something you can’t roll edge to edge you know I’d like to see your methods especially to stop paint from pulling off when you overlap on the big ceilings I have to roll back into it and pull off if I try to keep the same direction it lifts the previous rolled section n bigger ceilings I always prefer to roll especially when there’s bars and bar lights and all kind cut ins around it I did one job it kicked my a** so bad I almost wanted to quit and doubted my selft and my 13 years of painting never had a challenge like tht
In an empty house repaint we would prep then remove or mask all ceiling fittings and spray them with an airless – no cutting in on ceilings. I would do a 4 bedroom house in under an hour and have to wait a bit for the first coat to dry before applying a second coat. Then I’d change paints and do all the cupboards. That was an easy 6 hour day usually They would come up perfectly. We would only use a brush and roller in a house containing furniture. I would spray ceilings with a 5:17 tip and the cupboards with a 4:13 I think from memory. Our little Graco 395 would have sprayed thousands of litres of paint and was worth its weight in gold.
Thanks guys. Amazing tips helped a noob painter paint his bathroom. Anytime I’ve painted a room, I’ve been doing it wrong until now. Any tips on painting with different types of paint? Eggshell vs Satin? So far, eggshell sucks… I can never get it to go on without painting it 3-5 times… even then, i’m not satisfied.
Great article thanks for the info! Just wanna saythis quick, I’m not in the US but Id assume that it goes for anywhere, I used to work as a ventilation and climate technician I urge everyone to carefully take the ventilation inlets and exhausts out(just don’t be too rough so it changes the settings), just like electrical outlets when you paint. Then you can paint them or not but its so annyoing when they are stuck with paint and you chip the ceiling paint when you have to take them off to work on the ventilation 😱
Great advice! I appreciate that guidance about spraying then rolling over it (even though you didn’t use this method). I also really like the direction in witch to spray to match the lighting. I recently painted my ceilings with flat ceiling paint with an airless sprayer and didn’t go over with a roller — it does not look professional, so I’ll be rolling it again soon. Thanks for the great articles and advice!
Two coats always. Any patches need to be primed with oil base primer. From there if you use a QUALITY paint the ceiling will be beautiful. Ceilings should always be flat so stipple from roller is really irrelevant. If you don’t do two coats then you are cutting corners. Edges use purdy weenie roller with the blue/white Fab roller You can fly
Blue shirt guy will have back problems, rolling like that. You probably know, but roll side to side, never over your head, leave a bit of pressure against roller toward the direction youre moving. I do half the room, then feather my other side into it. I can roll a typical bedroom in ten minutes. After cutting. I’ve never used that 9″ naptip, but I do sometimes cut with a roller after cutting the corner with a brush. I use CHB, it’s flat & doesn’t flash. The pressure thing, will keep lines from forming.
7:56 it’s a little unclear on your process for the vents. it sounds like you leave them in place rather than take them off and paint them, correct? Process is cutting the edges with that edge roller, and then roll the ceilings while it’s still wet where you cut in, or wait until dry? You then you spray the vents/lights, and then you come back and cut in and roll the overspray? Are you doing this after your rolled ceiling dries? Does rolling that overspray cause ceiling to look a little different in that area? When you are rolling the overspray, are you adding paint or just soaking up the overspray with a dry roller?
I just finished up with a two room one bath new construction basement job I had major issues with the ceiling and couldn’t figure out why. First is sprayed a coat of kills primer on the ceilings and walls with a magnum x5 Greco airless sprayer using a 515 tip without back rolling any of it. Let it dry over night before coming in and cutting in the ceiling and rolling them out using a standard 18in 1/2 in nap purdy roller cover using Behr flat white ceiling paint (all paint was provided by home owner) rolled on first coat allowed to dry over night before rolling on the second coat. Ended up using a full five gal to cover roughly 600sq/ft with two coats. Manufacture says one gal will cover 400sq/ft. When I came in on day four of the job to apply first coat on the walls I instantly noticed I could see every single roller edge line in a straight line from one side of the room to the other. It was so bad you couldn’t not notice it as soon as you walked in the room there was no windows and even with the light off and only little bit of light coming from the other room separated by a 36in door which had one 3×4 window that let in light through the plastic masking from spraying the primer. The other room ceiling turned out perfectly fine couldn’t see a single roller line anywhere. Painted both ceilings the same time the exact same way. Got one more gal of ultra white flat ceiling paint by Behr to give it another try as the home owner accidentally cranked up the heat when I was rolling the ceiling with both vents at the top of the wall and blowing directly on the ceiling with most other vents shut off before I could find him and have him shut the heat off because it was drying the paint faster then I could get it on the ceiling and I thought that might have been the cause of all the roller edge lines.
As a professional painter I personally wouldn’t use a 7 to 9 inch roller or trays for that matter as trays anymore are so flimsy etc like kicking over or stepping into them although as a beginner I did. 12 to 18 inch rollers and big scuttles only nowadys plus with mini rollers 4 to 6 inch use mini scuttles
So my mom and I are gonna start the painting process in our playroom and we have to paint the ceilings. When we painted one of the other rooms’ ceiling, the paint that was on it before was super cheap from the old owners and it seemed like it sort of just sucked up the paint and we had to go over it multiple times to get a good paint job. What paint would you recommend using??
hi me when im rolling i just start in one corner .make the cut in at the same time with the same roller. when you roll you have to be in the center and move your roler left and right of your body . not back and forwoard . so you can cover a bigger area. i have 20 years expereance and never used a sprayer .i whant to buy one but im not realy sure what model .maybe you guys can give me a tip .the budget will be aroud 1500 dolars to spend on one .thank you
What are you doing. I would have cut in the vents and rolled whichever way was easier. It’s flat paint It can completely dry half way and you can roll it the opposite direction when you come back the next day if you want, because it’s FLAT paint. if you roll it properly which isn’t hard with flat the light won’t show anything at all
Any “Ceiling Paint” will be dead flat, also designed to be low splatter. A high quality 1/2 nap roller would hold more paint and result in less reloading of the roller. There is a down side to spraying vents with a flat paint: flat paints are inherently rough and catch the dirt in the air passing over them. Whereas they might look great at the time of the paint job, they will look terrible covered with household dirt and not wash well. Although it might not be a perfect match, it is far simpler to just spray them with a spray can of fast drying oil enamel. It is also far less build up on the surface of the vent.
This isn’t that great. Had they taped around the light fixtures and cut, dude with the roller could have laid that paint down without looking choppy. I’m used to painting private homes where attention to detail matters, I’m guessing it would work if doing a bunch in a hurry, or for slum landlords to do it themselves.
I was taught to alternate the direction you roll a ceiling so you over lap your coats. That’s wrong? Also how is roller spray not getting all over that window ? And a wall paper boarder but you’re not taping it off and going to roll a ceiling? You sure you guys are professionals? Because I don’t care who you are or how good your equipment is. Rollers spatter paint everywhere.
sorry,,I have to disagree on the 9 inch roller around the perimiter of the ceilings,without feathering out the drips and heavy areas on the walls that it creates . What we do is go around quickly before the drips dry and feather them out with a mini roller. other wise if a satin or semi gloss paint gets used,you can see the imperfections . Actually using that hand held sprayer to cut the ceiling in is the most effective way to do it.
Giving examples of rolling the ceiling in different lighting/entry settings was super helpful. Do you have suggestions for painting a 14-foot vaulted ceiling if no scaffolding or stilts (just high ladders)? Also, if flat paint shouldn’t be used in a kitchen, but the living room, kitchen, and other rooms are all one ceiling, should flat still be used or move up a sheen? Thanks.
What brand and type of paint are you using please. Just finished drywalling patched sanded and painted our ceiling. In the evening light I can see the seems ugh Any help you can give would greatly be appreciated! The patching ans sanding is smooth its just with certain time of the day the light that comes in toy can see the seams
Yea don’t push the roller cover into the edge where the ceiling meets the wall and not back brush the edge.. no matter the cover you use it will leave a stipple along the edge making a perfect cut of any color other than an off white impossible.. would work fine for apartment painting.. other than that roll the edge and take the short time to back brush the edge leaving a smooth edge for when you cut the wall color in.
Just roll it correctly and you won’t get lap marks or paint splatter all over your face. I see your guy standing right under the roller. Better to keep the roller ahead of you so you can see the paint flow and layout. A longer pole would help too. The painter should have his hand farther away from the roller for better control. If you work fast enough you can cross-roll each section while keeping a wet edge rather than over-rolling in one direction. If you lose the wet edge, you will get lap marks. You should NEVER get roller edge marks. What’s with the huge run snots on the cut-in walls?
Here in Nebraska we don’t lean our roller against a wall ever. We cut corners and around any lights before we roll and we don’t ride our roller along the wall and leave runs like at 5:52. You put way too much thought into which direction you are going to roll your dead flat paint and then use that giant roller without laying it off.
I’m so upset I was a long time sub and somehow you and others disappeared from my list! You taught me to cut in like a professional ! Had a leak through my ceiling and looks like I may need to paint the ENTIRE downstairs ceiling in an open concept floor plan waaaah I don’t want to ruin my Profesh looking walls 😢 thanks for the article Wish me Luck peeps!!!
Hello to all, I do look at the articles from time to time, and don’t get me wrong, there are some cool things to listen and see, like this corner roller. I am in Melbourne, and we do a lot of custom Builder homes. That roller would be handy for a smaller apartment repaint or something similar. But, the way John is rolling the ceilings, and if that’s the way he does it all the time, as he said it, He wouldn’t work for me for long. That’s really a wrong way to do it, and I am talking about the rolling only, the way he is holding and using the extension pole and a roller. The lighting explanation is ok, that’s your basic painters look at the job. A lot of DIY-ers are commenting it’s helpful, and yes it is for DIY. I am not really criticizing for the sake of it, just giving my opinion. But, in a lot of articles I see good stuff and interesting, and the way the articles are done – quick, easy to watch, sharp talk, all good. So thanks anyway, And Again I Am Not Really Criticizing. Cheers
A Brooklyn New Yorker here. Been painting for 25 years. Would never do what this guy is saying in this article. When painting a ceiling or any wall you cut with brush not a roller. He’s running the 9 inch roller all along the edges, which imo is not recommended, the roller is leaving drip marks all along the edges of the wall. Secondly, the guy actually rolling the ceiling is painting like an amateur. He’s getting all paint in his eyes and face because of his rolling technique. His form isn’t proper. He standing directly under the roller. You have to roll with your arms extended in front of you, not directly under the roller.
why would you ever wear glasses when rolling a ceiling? just curious, because if you roll ceilings,always using the right technique, you never get any splatter or drips on you, period. to avoid this, simply apply the paint away from you to the beginning corner, working the lay down and pattern in front of you as you walk backward leaving a finished pattern in front of you. (work in front of you, walking backwards) love you guys and all you do! the ceiling technique with safety glasses got to me though. aint got time for no stinking glasses!! now get back to work!
Great tips how ever, I could run circles around anyone with an 18 inch. With right nap(3/4 or 1inch nap) I could cut in the edges so you wouldn’t need to pre roll the edges just slam into the walls(watch your drips) which would save you time and money, all you need to do is take a brush and hit the corners of the room. But I’d put money on I could move faster and complete rooms faster with the 9, then anyone in an 18inch, any day.
Hi, Can I use a watered down acrylic ceiling paint, like at around 30% added water, as covering layers underneath before putting a final non-diluted layer as the top coat? Will the thinner coats of paint underneath compromise the longevity of the paint job even though the top coat is non-diluted? Let’s say I put the watery paint on a wall to cover it twice and then put a final top coat of non-diluted wall paint. Is that ok?
As I have no experience,and will be painting for the first time.If ur painting by yourself, and u obvious start with the ceilings. Do u cut around the whole ceiling first then paint the whole ceiling,or do u cut in the cornices, section at a time so it doesn’t dry on u,then paint the ceiling bit by bit.. I am doing this alone