This guide provides tips on how to minimize or prevent indoor air and environmental problems during home remodeling projects. It covers good work practices, barriers, ventilation, and proper storage. It also discusses when and how to change air purifier filters to maintain optimal indoor air quality and purifier efficiency. The guide also discusses choosing the right air filter for your HVAC system and how often to change it based on factors like home size, air quality, pets, season, and occupancy.
Conducting detailed HEPA vacuuming during and at the end of each day’s renovation efforts is crucial to minimize accumulated dust toxins that can become airborne with activity. It is important to change the internal filter of the HVAC system. A quality filter is worth the cost, especially during a renovation. It is essential to look for filters that remove allergens and be sure to check them.
Air filters need to be changed regularly to keep the unit running smoothly and keep the air in your home clear. Increase ventilation by opening doors and windows in the renovation area and using exhaust fans to remove dust and fumes. Most air filter manufacturers and HVAC companies recommend changing your air filter every 90 days or 3 months, depending on the change of seasons.
Looking at your air filter once a month is the only way to know if your filter really needs changing. Use a high-quality furnace filter and change it weekly during big projects. Vacuum the space thoroughly after completion. Most disposable air filters last three to 12 months, but the thicker the filter, the less often it needs changing. Changing filters about every 50 days can help ensure the system is consistently pumping clean air, minimizing allergens and irritants in the home.
📹 How Often To Change Furnace Filter During A Renovation-Easy Explanation
In this video, I tell you how often to change your furnace filter during a renovation. Believe it or not, a furnace filter should be …
Why change air filter every 3 months?
Pleated air filters should be replaced at intervals of no more than 90 days, due to the increased trapping of dirt, dust, and allergens, which reduces filter efficiency. In the case of less expensive fiberglass filters, the recommended replacement interval is 30 days, as they are less effective in filtering the air. These estimates are based on the assumption of average usage and filter type and size.
How to tell if a HVAC filter needs changing?
Air filter replacement is a crucial maintenance task in your HVAC system, as it helps your heating and cooling system run efficiently, prolong its lifespan, and prevent expensive repair issues. Common signs of air filter replacement include dust and dirt around vents, a rise in electricity bill, longer heating or cooling times, and hot AC units. Dust and dirt can accumulate around AC vents, leading to a rise in electricity bills and worsening allergies.
A dirty air filter can significantly improve indoor air quality, and if the filter appears dirty or clogged, it should be replaced as soon as possible. A clogged filter can reduce energy efficiency, cause indoor air quality problems, restrict airflow, and strain the AC, leading to premature component wear and failure.
In addition to regular filter cleaning, it is important to be aware of common signs of air filter replacement, such as dust and dirt around vents, a rise in electricity bills, longer heating or cooling times, and hot AC units. Replacing a dirty air filter can significantly improve indoor air quality and prevent costly repairs.
How do you know when to change your air filter?
In order to ascertain the optimal frequency of air filter replacement, it is recommended to conduct a monthly visual inspection. This will assist in evaluating the rate of filter contamination over time, thereby facilitating an informed decision regarding the necessary replacement schedule.
Can I change my air filter every 6 months?
The general guidelines for changing pleated air filters are only valid up to six months, but they don’t consider filter sizes or types. It’s recommended to never leave an air filter unreplaced for more than 90 days. Old filters collect more dust, dirt, and allergens than new ones, reducing filter efficiency. If you have allergies, it’s important to monitor your frequency of filter changes and use the right filter type. If you don’t have allergies, it’s possible that you should be replacing your HVAC equipment more frequently than you realize.
How often should you change your air filter in your business?
In clean environments like office buildings, it is recommended to replace or clean HVAC filters quarterly. In harsh environments like factories and auto shops, filters should be changed more frequently to prevent airflow obstruction and equipment burnout. Regular filter changes are recommended once a month to avoid potential equipment burnout. In dusty and debris-prone environments, filters should be changed before they become too clogged to function effectively. Maintaining clean filters can extend the lifespan of your HVAC system for many years.
Clogged filters can dampen airflow, making the system work inefficient and potentially leading to equipment problems. To avoid these issues, set up a regular schedule for changing air conditioning filters and ensure you have enough replacements. There are seven distinct air filter options customized for commercial HVAC systems, each with its own benefits.
In summary, regular filter replacement is crucial for maintaining optimal indoor air quality in commercial settings. The right choice can significantly influence the well-being and comfort of those within the building.
When should I replace my apartment air filter?
The general guidelines for changing an air filter in an apartment are the same for single-family houses or townhomes. Most air filters last 1-3 months, depending on factors such as the number of people, health condition, number and type of pets, outdoor air quality, indoor air quality, indoor smoking, and air filter construction. Apartment air circulates more across units, making the air filter dirtier faster than home filters. Additionally, mid-rise, high-rise, and walk-up apartments may have more particulate matter circulating in the ventilation, causing the air filter to fill up faster.
Are 3 month air filters worth it?
If your air filter doesn’t appear dirty, it’s essential to change it every 3 months to maintain proper airflow, efficiency, and indoor air quality. Factors contributing to the monthly dirtiness of your filter include dust, pet hair, indoor air pollutants, smoking, and using the wrong filter type or efficiency rating. Regular cleaning is crucial to prevent accumulation of tiny particles and ensure efficient operation. Regular maintenance is crucial for maintaining a healthy home environment.
How do I know if my air filter is too dirty?
Air filters are essential components of your HVAC system, responsible for collecting dust, dirt, and other debris that would otherwise enter your home through air vents. They play a crucial role in maintaining the air quality and efficiency of your heating and cooling system. However, if you notice any of these signs, it’s time to replace your air filter.
8 signs of a dirty air filter include poor airflow from vents, increased energy bills, uneven temperatures in rooms, unusual noises from the HVAC system, stale smells, increased utility bills, poor indoor air quality, and frequent breakdowns. It’s crucial to replace your air filter to ensure your comfort, health, and wallet are protected.
In summary, replacing your air filter is a simple and crucial maintenance task that can significantly improve your HVAC system’s performance. By following these tips, you can ensure that your air filter is clean and efficient, ensuring the best possible performance from your HVAC system.
How do I know if my filter needs to be changed?
Furnace filters play a crucial role in maintaining the quality of air in your home and their efficiency. They should be changed regularly to improve air circulation and quality. The frequency of filter replacement depends on the filter manufacturer’s recommendations, which can be found on the packaging. However, factors such as the MERV rating, HVAC use, and lifestyle can also influence the frequency of filter changes.
Higher MERV ratings indicate more efficient filters, while low-rated filters need to be changed more often. HVAC use, such as the cold winters or hot summers, should be replaced monthly, as the furnace works harder during these periods, containing more contaminants. Lifestyle factors, such as pets or smokers, also require more frequent filter changes due to the increased contaminants in the air.
In summary, regular filter changes are essential for maintaining the quality of air in your home and ensuring optimal efficiency.
How to know if a HVAC filter is dirty?
To determine if an air filter is clogged, hold it up to a light source. If the filter is dirty or clogged with debris, the light should shine through, indicating it’s time for replacement. Visible mold is another sign of a dirty HVAC filter, as it thrives on high humidity levels and can find moisture and organic matter on the filter. The dark, damp conditions of a clogged or dirty filter provide an ideal breeding ground for mold, compromising indoor air quality.
How often do you change the air filter in new construction?
The majority of air filter manufacturers and HVAC companies advise that filters be replaced every 90 days, or approximately three months. This timeframe is contingent upon a number of factors, including the climate, the presence of pets, the age of the system and equipment, and other variables. It should be noted that these recommendations may vary based on geographical location.
📹 5 Furnace Filter Mistakes That Will Cost You Money!
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🚨 I’ve cleaned over 15,000 furnaces. Trust me NEVER buy a cheap fibre glass filter that you can see through. All the majority of the dust will go right through and plug up your furnace secondary heat exchanger and your air conditioner coil on top of the furnace. Thats exactly what hvac contractor wants to make money. Your furnace will over heat and instead of lasting 20 years, your heat exchanger will crack sooner. Contractors hope they will double their profit by selling you 2 furnaces in a 20 year period.
If putting in a MERV 13 filter causes restrictions – then more than likely you have insufficient returns. I have ceiling mounted filter grills for my 5-ton HVAC system and I have four dedicated returns with total grill area of 1,500 square inches. That keeps them quiet and effective. Lowers the speed of the air going through the filter. I also use 3″ pleated filters in all my ceiling mounted filter grills. After 15 years – my inside coil looks shiny and new – and I have never had to have it cleaned.
A few tips in case they may help someone: 1) If you have an awkward slide in style like that that makes it difficult to retrieve the filter, you can add a “courtesy pull tab” with a folded loop of tape (such as duct, smooshed together at the open portion) on one end of the cardboard to grab it, 2) write the date you installed it on the cardboard in case you forget when you last changed it and to help track how frequently you need to replace, 3) the frequency to change may need to be adjusted, eg 1 month during heavy use seasons/ 3 months during light use seasons.
Great info. In my case changing the filters (we have two) is easier when the system is running. Our HVAC system is in the attic (1 story home) and has two returns – both located in the ceiling. The access covers swing down and the filters fall out. To replace them you have to align them just right as you close the cover. That is, unless the system is running. Then it holds them in place and you can pull the old one out easily, and it will hold the new one exactly in place while you close the cover. I use FilterEasy subscription service – they send me filters on schedule. I had to check – I’m getting MERV 8s now. There is some dust in the house, but we have a dog, and construction going on in the area so that’s to be expected.
Mistake #6 Forgetting to use the cheap filter in the summer and your AC coils freeze over forming a block of ice in the duct. Seriously. I was told by the HVAC guy that the good filters restrict air flow too much so that condensation was forming on my AC coils in the duct and were freezing over. I am supposed to use the cheap filters in the summer to avoid this. That is what I do and I have never had an issue since.
I have been around this industry for decades. If you have a 1″ filter, the biggest problem at 1″, is if you use anything that really does a good job at trying to clean the air, even a pleated filter, it can be enough to restrict the air too much. The end result is the equivalent of a dirty filter, too much restriction. When air flow is restricted, not enough heat is picked up in the air across the heat exchanger, which means more heat is exhausted outside and less heat goes into the house/building. A similar thing applies to cooling. That means the furnace or AC runs longer to keep the thermostat satisfied. This also can cause the heat exchanger to get hotter than designed or the head pressure on the AC compressor to get too high, leading to an unsafe condition where the heat exchanger can crack, leaking exhaust inside, or compressor failure. The ideal solution would be to replace the 1″ filter housing with a 4″ filter housing, but in many cases, may be cost prohibitive. If your stuck with a 1″ filter, even a 1″ pleated merv 8 filter will cause some restriction on your system over a 1″ fiberglass filter. However, for a 1″ filter, its not advisable to exceed a merv 8 filter rating. And unfortunately, fiberglass filters do a very poor job at removing particulate from the air, but are better than a dirty filter or nothing. One thing you can do to help a fiberglass filter do its job better is spray “End Dust” on it, normally used on furniture for dusting, to help catch more particulate on the filter.
We went from a MERV8 to MERV11 and noticed a massive reduction in dust on everything. What I really want is a larger filter. 16x25x1 is too small! Should be illegal. They get filled too quickly. My sister’s house is 3x mine and she has a 20x25x5(She uses a MERV2 or 3 1″ as a pre-filter and a 4″ MERV11). Changes it 2x a year(pre-filter every 3 months). I have to change mine almost monthly and she has 4x the cats I have 😉
The best thing you can do is have a 4″ filter track. The 4″ MERV 8 filters will do a much better job. More surface area, increased dust holding capacity ( if you want to know if your filter is near the end of it’s usefulness look on the back side and see if there is any dust bleed thru, if not it’s still working, if it’s discolored time to change it, don’t go on what the up-stream side looks like, a good quality high capacity filter will look pretty horrendous before it has reached it’s dust holding capacity) and consequently longer life, probably a year. Don’t use the ultra cheap fiberglass filters, they are crap, we used to say they are good for dead birds and golf balls. MERV 11,12,13 pleated filters only get a high MERV rating because they are statically charged, once the charge dissipates after the filter is loaded with some dust it’s no better than a MERV 8 and probably not even that good. Stick with a good quality MERV 8 and save your $. There is nothing stopping a filter mfg labeling their product with whatever MERV rating they want, it’s the wild west when it comes to regulation, HEPA gets thrown around willy nilly too and it’s all BS. Stick with the top brands in industrial filtration, I’d recommend Camfil.
Except that the 3M Filtrete 1900 model you have in your hand has one of the best air flow ratings of all filters. Due to the extreme number of pleats (thus why it’s more expensive), even though it’s a MERV 13 filter it has significantly better resistance ratings at any CFM than the majority of air filters, even ones of a much lower MERV rating.
Do not leave your fan running 24/7 during cooling season. Your AC pulls the humidity from your home to the evap coil. Once the temp is met the system shuts down and the humidity drains off the coil and out the drain. If the fan stays running it will blow the moisture, thus the humidity back into the home. Heating season, have at it.
Ages ago when we moved into our home we tried one of those high end filters on what was then our home original furnace. It literally cause our old furnace to shut down. It over heated. When we had our newer 2 stage furnace put in 10 years ago, we were told to just use a regular 1″ filter. We do have birds as pets that cause dust. I just wait for my furnace to stop, then pop out the filter and vacuum it on a regular bases. No worries.
The fiberglass filters, according to some sources and project farm on yt, you really shouldn’t use a fiberglass filter if you care about air quality at all. Merv8 has a negligible effect on static pressure and filters almost 4x as many particles out. We use merv12 and definitely can tell a difference in interior air quality over merv8. With fiberglass, ugh… would be allergy city.
I think a bigger mistake is homeowners trying to be as cheap as possible when getting a furnace installed. 1in filter cavities is cheap, and dumb. Just throw a few extra bucks at it and spec a 3 or 4 inch filter, maybe a bit more to stack a charcoal prefilter. Less pressure drop, less electricity, less cost for filters over time, and less frequent filter changes at the cost of a few more bucks up front.
Used to change my Merv 11 filters every 3 months like clockwork. Just had a service call and it turns out, the Merv 11 filters are blocking too much air flow and my furnace was overheating. HVAC tech put in a cheap fiberglass filter and in 30 days, I will make sure to replace with another “cheap” filter and then as recommended, go no higher than a MERV 8 filter and change every 2 months and not 3. Cost me $89 for a service call but luckily, my new system has a safety sensor which kept shutting down the furnace but the recycling of on and off again was what prompted me to call the HVAC company in the first place. Still cheaper than having my furnace catch fire, right?
an aging filter will clog up, reducing air flow over time but it still filters well, better in fact, the only thing to be remotely concerned about is whether or not the airflow is decent and the motor isn’t strained. this takes over a year for the filter to restrict air flow enough to be an issue. it’s all about airflow not how many particles get through!
3:14, enough with the iPhone, you can put your filter replacement schedule on any phone, Android or iPhone. For those not in the know yet blinded by iPhone marketing, Samsung Galaxy provides more business features and truly better security as than the iPhone. For over eleven years I used the iPhone, from the 3Gs through XR, then switched to Samsung Note 20. Also, I supported iPhone for family, friends, and neighbors. So, yes I do know what I am talking about. With Samsung I do not experience any of the compromises I did with the iPhone.
I came up recently with understanding that in most of the cases change your filter idea is the marketing scam. Yes, filter should be changed, if it is dirty. But how do you know if it’s dirty or not? Why would anyone need to swap it once in 3 month? How often someone using furnace? How often you are opening your doors/windows etc. Do you have air purifier or not? So many variables in the formula. I changed my last filter probably around year ago. During summer in the most of the cases I am using split units in living and master bedroom. Change your filters only when it is really needed.
I love this website but I have to say there is a common and important misunderstanding about these filters that Jason not only didn’t cover but perpetuated. The air resistance that any filter gives isn’t only related to it’s MERV rating. A high quality (typically more expensive) filter can have a lower air resistance than a lower MERV filter of lower quality. Lower air resistance is achieved with more pleats (increased total surface area) and better/higher performing filter material. Good filters manufacturers print both their MERV rating and their “initial resistance”, given in IWC on the filter itself. This is sort of like inferior olive oil that doesn’t include acid level on the label. I like to buy from a brand that is up front and proud of their product’s specs. Jason did preface what he said with “for people with 1 inch filters…” but makes no mention of how a bigger filter package of 2, 3, 4 even 5 inches results in lower air resistance for for a given MERV due to the larger surface area.
You are educating home owners on filters, but you forgot to point out the very dangerous code violation, copper gas line going through the furnace housing. Maybe it isn’t a code violation in your area, but that is a huge code violation in Canada. Also, not the best practices to not have a drip pocket at the lowest point of the gas line, I did see there is one on the gas manifold. Licensed Refrigeration Mechanic, Heating Technician Toronto Canada and NATE Certified in USA
The service tech told me that I was running too high of a Merv filter in the summer guess because duct work in 60 year old house are undersized. Like to use 2″ wide painters tape to seal filter. Just wish all the filter manufacturers used one standard filter rating system like Merv. Best to purchase two or four at a time. As soon as I only have one left will pick up more on next trip to big box store.
I have put a Filtrate 1900 in changing out every 3 months which is excessive given I live alone, have no pets, and vacuum twice a month. I started using the ‘charcoal’ Merv 11 filter as activated charcoal (claim) filters out odours etc. It’s cooking odours that drive me nuts because they seem to linger so long. This is very subjective and I’ve only had it had for a couple of weeks. I have a high eff furnace ( brings in outside air for combustion not recirc indoor air) and for all I can read a Merv 11 will satisfy most needs. If I had pets, kids, etc I would go back to the 1900 changing more frequently i.e. holding it up to a light to get an idea of how dirty it has become.
Time and time again you guys are wrong in suggesting lousy filters. Good filters actually use less blower electricity and do not increase gas usage. The output air will be warmer due to lower air flow; the furnace will burn gas at the same rate for the same time; and your air will be cleaner. A dirty filter cleans better than a new filter, unless there is a poor fit. As long as temperature rise is acceptable, use the best filter available to remove bacteria, smoke and viruses from the air you breathe. Use a watt meter to find the facts on blower power before making crap up for a article.
great article, but I would recommend an alternative to your comments on the higher MERV filters. 1) in areas with relatively good outside air quality, a cheap filter is probably fine but you’ll load up the coil faster with this; you are dead on about the fan energy. In this changing climate, it may make sense for some to keep a high MERV filter in storage and use that short term to help capture wildfire smoke for those of us dealing with this. 2) As a HVAC designer, I’d say the problem or handicap to avoid is to not install a 1″ filter rack to begin with, for those at the point of purchasing a new system or new home. 4″ deep should be a minimum, consider 6″ or deeper if you can. yes, these filters are much, much more $$ but they last much longer, they have lower pressure drops for the same size and you can get the magic three of low PD, high filtration and high life with some extended media types that are available in these depths (mini-pleats, V-mini-pleats, etc.).
I buy a case of the cheapest pleated filters every year (Merv 7 or 8) and change them monthly. Possibly 1 or 2 times a year I will leave it in a second month in the non heat/cooling months. The blower fan stays on all winter at minimum. It is there to protect the equipment, if you want clean air vacuume more or get a whole home air filter.
Look at the pleads of the more expensive filter. The more pleads the lower the resistance. I tested the resistance in a non-scientific way with a sheet of paper laying on one of my return ducts. And I found the resistance of a filter with more pleads was lower – even lower than a cheap fiberglass filter
I’ve used those higher merv filters since 2002 in the same HVAC system, and have never had to replace ANY components or parts, except for an AC capacitor. I DO change the filter monthly, but purchasing them on sale at Costco, comes out to about $9 a filter, and I’m ok with that, especially when it results in more highly-filtered air in my house.
Air filters have ‘support’ on the ‘back side’ to prevent the filter material from being sucked into your air handler (a/c, furnace, etc.). So, if the arrows point AWAY from the back side ‘support’ always put the back side support towards your indoor unit. Don’t JUST rely on the arrows. This is the most efficient and effective way filters work. Always double check. Get pleated filters, even though they cost more, they have more filter surface area and can catch the smaller/finer things floating around inside your home, office, etc.. This is especially important because, believe it or not, indoor air is DIRTIER than outdoor air.
Almost every system is designed for a max static pressure of .5 water column, and some are able to handle .8 water column. Merv 13’s will significantly reduce furnace life and efficiency, almost always increases static pressure beyond the furnace specs. If you want/need high filtration, go with an electronic air cleaner/filter like he mentioned. Good airflow with great protection, best of both worlds. Couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve been out to a house and either the Ac is freezing up, furnace overheating on high limit or ECM blower motors fail with Merv 13’s. Not to mention the temp stress, reduction in heat exchanger life.
This is terrible advice regarding the MERV ratings. No, the higher MERV rating filters are not going to stress your air handler and NO YOU SHOULD NOT RUN THE FAN 24/7! Go look at the differential pressure of those filters with higher MERV ratings. They use a whole bunch of pleats to increase the effective surface area, which means you do not stress the air handler. I run MERV 11 (Filtrete 1500) filters and I replace them every 3 months like clockwork. If you hook up an ammeter, you won’t see any appreciable difference between the cheap filters and the high MERV filters.
Fantastic tips. Man was I making these mistakes arrow wrong way & ‘top of the line’ allergy filters. My direction error was because our furnace installer actually placed it wrong at time of install. I did as you suggested on my very first change, marking the direction. I’ll scratch that out & relabel right after I hit ‘comment’ Thanks
Great article see you are showing my exact furnace, one thing I learned is a furnace is not designed to be an air purifier unit using high merv rated filters, they only make the blower motor work harder and shorten life . I use pleated filters but no higher than merv 4 used, wish they had a lower rated merv pleated filter, like a merv 2 . Less air restricton .
Filters are a big business. Could that be a reason furnace manufacturers don’t put a restriction indicator on the furnace?? Just saying… I’ve had them on two furnaces for at least 20 years. On the current furnace I have a manometer plus an indicator. They have saved considerable dollars by not having to change filters until needed. A thermostat may include an alert but that is not based on restriction.
Not all older systems can handle MERV 12+. The manual will tell you what it can handle, other than that I have always been told to go with MERV 8 if I am not sure how strong the HVAC is. To strong of a filter in to weak of a HVAC can result in dead HVAC. I do not trust those fiber glass ones, because just looking at them you can see the small particles that are making their way into the HVAC. To much dirt inside the HVAC can result in a dead HVAC as well. Most retail stores doe not sell on MERV, instead they use FPR. Sometimes both are on the packaging. MERV 8 = FPR 4-5 MERV 11 = FPR 6-9 MERV 13 = FPR 10 Most home owners are not going to have an HVAC that can handle MERV 14 effectively. That starts getting into medical applications.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE A FIBERGLASS FILTER. Any HVAC tech that says that instantly loses all credibility and hasn’t kept up on continuing education. A fiberglass filter will only protect your HVAC, it will not protect you, the occupant. The minimum MERV rating you should use in a house is MERV 8 – if you have a newer system you likely can use MERV 11 or MERV 13. This will improve your indoor air quality and protect your HVAC.
Yes, my filter got dirty faster than expected during the winter. In this apartment building, every apartment has its own furnace/water heater. But there was more. I also had so called fresh air being pumped into my apartment in the summer time via a window mounted dual fan. So just to see how clean that outdoor air was, I placed a 20″ x 10″ x 1″ filter on the dual fan casing. It was pitch black after just 2 months.
I recently had a new furnace installed….so imagine my surprise when a 3m filter 20×25×1 didn’t fit…but the original one for the furnace 20x25x1 is slightly smaller and fits… I just turned the slider door up side down to accommodate the new 3 m filter, Kept the old one to get the correct size for the next one… 5:33
If I could find an alternative filter to the Aprilaire MERV 11 filter I have to change out, that can cost me well over a 100 bucks a year, I’m all ears. I feel like I got taken for a ride with my local HVAC service with this additional unit attached to my air handler. These filters DO seem more restrictive and I DO feel I am spending more in electricity but since the filtering system is attached and I can’t remove it, I am stick buying these expensive 4″ thick filters and I can’t find a cheaper alternative.
Fiberglass filters are used to remove lint from the airflow, and not much else, so it does not build up in the furnace. If you are having the HVAC system installed, require that they install a slot that will accept a 2 inch or 4 inch pleated filter. You will get the better airflow and still get dust, pollen, and other allergens removed while getting a good air flow. And they will last a lot longer as well.
My filter is wedged behind the metal door up on top of the furnace? Can’t you show those kinds of filters. You guys are always showing these side insert filters that are so simple. I inherited my folks old house after they recently passed away and mine, if I know what I’m doing but doubt I do, has to be it seems jammed up over the furnace and because of the angle (I have to be almost on the floor), I’m not sure I’m putting it in in the right direction. Help! It’s an Ensign Beckett. Can you do a article on one of those?
I noticed the green light turns off when you open the compartment door to change the filter, there is a button that releases when you remove the door, i think it’s some kind of safety issue. Is the green light supposed to be flashing after you replace the door? I didn’t take note of that when replacing mine. Also, my set up is different and i have the air drawing from the floor area and the filter is directly under the furnace, when I’m perusal your article it looks like the filter should be on the top part of the furnace . I’m so confused . Can i send you a picture?
Thanks for the information. The gas furnace had a good space for the filter. For many years I used to make my own filters based on the need, dust and season. The space in the new electric one is tight and unreasonable. The job was done and iIt was too late to find out the stupid design, otherwise I would not accept it. Again I am going to design my filters.
Why would you urge people to go to Amazon instead of going to their local hardware store? A local hardware store will have a staff that can answer questions and give you additional advice. Going to Amazon for everything will insure that the local hardware store goes out of business and the community will lose a valuable resource. Very poor advice that is truly a disservice to those who watch this article.
Friends never let friends use fiberglass filters (aka leaf catchers), not good at all. Instead get the cheapest pleated filters. Any hvac tech worth his salt would tell you that. Your indoor fan motor, ac coil, and will greatly reduce the layers of dead skin and dust on all your furniture will all be better for it.
It is actually false that the high merv filters are restrictive. You can look up tests showing their airflow is actually the same as cheap filters. Yes, they capture more particulates and need to be changed regularly, which leads to cost vs. benefit discussions. But it is false that they are restrictive.
This article caught my eye because I have the identical furnace. When they installed it, I suggested that they put a row of my concrete bricks under it because a one inch flood of water in the next 20 years is likely, and who wants water in their steel furnace? They raised their eyebrows and decided it was a great idea. Already paid off when the grandkids overflowed the toilet with tissue. 🙂 I see here a water tank beside the furnace. It has a tray but that pressure relief valve…. they do fail!
Those cheap fiberglass filters are only good for catching low flying birds and large insects. If you are actually using one of those, THROW IT OUT and get a better pleated filter. And have your ducts cleaned. More than 35 years of actual experience here. I owned my previous house with a Trane furnace from 1989 until I sold it in 2019 (30 years!!). For at least 28 of those years I used nothing but high merv pleated filters. Yes, I did have to change the blower motor after more than 20 years of service, but I really doubt the filter had much to do with it. We have been in the current house more than 10 years with a 20-something year old Rheem furnace and have used nothing but Merv 13 pleated filters with no air flow issues. I don’t change the filters as often as I should and they still flow plenty of air. If you are really concerned about this, you can go on Amazon and buy a digital manometer (differential pressure gauge) for $30 to $40 and measure the pressure drop across your filter.
For many years, I used a 20″x25″X4″ high end filter for our oil fired furnace. Two years ago, we finally converted to natural gas and installed an ultra high efficiency gas furnace with a variable speed, commutated D.C. motor. Oil furnace motor was replaced 8 years ago for $124 dollars. The gas furnace motor replacement is currently listed at $960 dollars. The technician stated that air restrictions were the biggest killer of these very expensive motors and recommended a change to a basic fiberglass 1 inch thick filter and more frequent filter changes. The 1 inch filter is changed every 2 months during winter and every 3 months during summer. Air flow and distribution has been improved and the 1 inch $8 dollar filters seem to grab more dust that the $65 dollar 4 inch filter ever did. A new gas furnace is never going to enjoy the lifespan of an older oil fired furnace, so it’s important to maximize it’s lifespan however possible.
My HVAC is a 20+ year old Carrier Infinity Weathermaker, 94% efficient and a 2 year old Bryant AC. It has a 7″ thick AprilAire #201 filter set up. Quite expensive to replace. 11 MERV I think? I replace it once a year and it usually doesn’t look too dirty. Do you recommend a filter set up like mine or would I be better converting to a 1″ thick filter and replace it every 2-3 months?
I just don’t understand how anyone can still recommend cheap fiberglass flat/non-pleated filters anymore. They let so many particles through which can foul up the coils and the rest of the system. At the very least use a lower efficiency (MERV 7 or 8) pleated filter. And the more pleats (while staying at MERV 7-8) the lower the restriction will be.
I don’t like to leave negative comments on articles with hard working people giving advice about practical, everyday things that make life better for the average homeowner. But your advice on the best filter to use was just plain dumb. A good pleated filter is better for the H/A unit and provides better air quality inside the house. Cheap, fiberglass filters with low filtration are junk and you shouldn’t be telling people to use them.
I do not trust the arrows on the filter. I have gotten some with the arrows pointing the wrong way. Filters have a reinforced back which keeps filter material from getting into the system. I always make sure the backing is on the exhaust side of the filter slot. I agree with purchasing cheaper filters. Cheap filters perform like expensive filters once they begin to accumulate dust and dirt. And I always use a black marker to write the installation date on the filter where it will be visible after installation.
I love this incredibly short, informative to the point, easy to understand article. I have been doing most of what was suggested, and will drop the high merv filters. I noticed the arrows, but wasn’t sure which way to install, but fortunately, intuitively installed, and marked, the right way. As a senior on fixed income articles like these are much appreciated! Thanks!❤
Great tips and thanks for posting! We have a 5″ filter in our furnace. A MERV 11. I have to admit, I pay about $50 for a filter and to be honest, I only change it once a year. If I had to change the filter 4 or 5 times a year, I’d go broke. I’ve never had a problem yet. Actually after a year even with 2 dogs in the house, the filter doesn’t look that bad.
This was pretty good information for DIYer. But I have to disagree with running your fan 24/7 especially in the summertime. When the compressor shuts down and you’re still running the fan, that air flow picks water up out of your condensate tray and puts it back in the air to be fed into your home. Not only will you artificially increase your load by having to remove the water repeatedly from the air but if you have furniture or drapes or any other kind of fabric hanging near or over your supply vents, those cold items that had cold air blowing on them while running with the compressor operating are now having warmer moist air blown on them and the moisture in that air will condense causing the material to become wet and likely develop mold. My youngest son didn’t realize this and ended up having to throw away several pieces of living room furniture due to heavy mold because they liked keeping the air circulating year-round.
and all the expensive (and the filter prices have become absurd) makers of filters – looking at you honeywell – rolled over in their graves. The typical HVAC filter system was never intended to worry about minute particles and dust. They were intended to limit some of the debris getting into the system. The super-duper filters are pure scam.