The cornice is the topmost part of a wall, connecting the roof and the wall. Materials used to make the cornice include wood, nylon, plaster, or plastic composite formulas. Interior walls are made up of common materials such as drywall, plaster, insulation, and framing. They fall into two categories: load-bearing and non-load bearing. A load-bearing wall supports a load from above, while a non-load bearing wall does not.
Interior walls can be divided into load-bearing and non-load bearing walls. A load-bearing wall supports a load from above, while a non-load bearing wall does not. Common house framing terms include posts, beams, joists, studs, headers, and more. Wall sections and building sections are different, and how to detail them for construction and material specifications is essential.
Construction of a wall is relatively simple, with the basics broken down in this post. Building a wall with 2×4 studs is a simple process. Faulting/tectonic activities can raise or lower parts of a coast relative to sea level, causing either emergence or submergence of the coast. Buccinids from sunken wood are most diverse in the Indo-Pacific center of marine biodiversity, the ‘Coral Triangle’.
The exterior of an old castle with large gates closed, a turret door is visible in the interior, leading to a hole in the wall. The lobby’s floors and wainscoting were made of Italian verde antique marble.
The burial appears to have been narrowly missed by two shallow, post medieval cess pits. Reused mouldings set to face the wall interior are used to protect cabinet records. Some light rain or snow could fall on parts of the building.
📹 Tuck Pointing for Beginners A – Z
Leah of Seejanedrill demonstrates how to tuck point brick. Tuck pointing is a home maintenance task which is often over looked.
📹 How to Patch Plaster Walls
Craig Phillips shows you how to patch plaster repair a hole in a wall. Learn how to clean the wall hole and how to repair it with …
I don’t know if you read these comments, but hopefully you will get a chuckle out of this… I apparently spend too much time on youtube… so last night I had a dream that I ran into you at cardiac rehab conference (I am an exercise physiologist for my day job), anyway, in my dream you actually went by Jane. My wife was like, hey look, Jane is here (she is not interested in woodworking so in real life she definitely wouldn’t recognize you, and wouldn’t be at the conference with me) any way, you were so kind and told me all about how you built your website and gave me tips for building my website. AND you also knew all of the ins and outs of exercise physiology and cardiac rehab 🤣 clearly I need to stop perusal articles before bed 😴 The human brain is so crazy!
I worked in an old fashioned tool store when I was younger and the bricklayers used to use the handles off steel buckets to finish their mortar joints. That’s why on building sites the metal buckets kept disappearing! Even when the special tools became available the brickies would always ask for a bucket handle when they came to purchase the tool! Another great article Leah I cannot understand why no television website hasn’t snapped you up,you have a quality that gives you the perfect presentation techniques that are lacking in many television presenters. You’re always clear, concise, friendly and non patronising. You would make an excellent mentor for youngsters who may not be academically brilliant but like to work with their hands and yet have no real idea what to do career wise.Your teaching style could change young peoples lives and career prospects for the better. As we say in the UK ‘ more power to your elbow’👍 I would say it’s people like you who made America great but that would only be partly true. People like you enrich any country they inhabit not just the US of A!
Leah @ seejanedrill teaching me ALL the home repairs in ways I can understand (and therefore forced to own my screw ups 😂) since 6 months ago, wish I’d known about you 8 years ago when I first became the all rounder here. ♥️ One thing though, my home is bagged or ragged (?) Like render but I think it’s concrete roughly pasted over the brick and then painted so how would I go about blending the repair please?
I don’t know if this is an English / American difference thing, but this is not ‘tuck pointing’ as it would be understood in the UK. It’s just ‘pointing’, or ‘repointing’ since you’re taking out the old crumbly stuff first. Tuck pointing is a specialist form of pointing that’s quite a bit more involved and leads to a very distinctive look.
I just finished repairing a section of my exterior brick façade. The patio sank (over a couple decades probably) and pulled down the bottom couple rows of bricks. The bricks higher up staying hanging onto the house and up in the air because brick ties are used to hold a brick façade to a wall in case of earthquake or tornadoes (I figured this out later, I was stumped initially). Anyway I wish I saw your article first because my tuck pointing was messy and wished I used your plywood board trick to more cleanly push the mortar into the cracks without so much dripping onto the brick face below. I also didn’t realize I should “slake” the mortar for 10 minutes.
I’m a licensed builder and have done some concrete work but I’ve been putting off some much needed tuck pointing on my own house because I’ve never done it before. I just bought the same mix a week ago as I need to get it done. Very timely article. Excellent instruction! I’m looking forward to knocking this small project out and checking it off my list (finally)!
Isn’t it best to wet the bricks in advance, so they don’t suck the moisture from the mortar mix? And don’t try it on hot, sunny day, but better on a cooler day to keep the mortar from drying too fast? Maybe the bonding agent helps with that? I hadn’t heard of the bonding agent trick… maybe next time I’ll give it a shot.
I have done a fair bit of re pointing of brickwork. I like to wet the prepared joint and use a slightly stiffer mortar mix than what you used here. Wetting the joint prevents the existing mortar sucking our the moisture in the mix creating better adhesion, whilst the mix remains less sloppy and easier and cleaner to work with. Just my 2 cents
A question of terminology here. You haven’t done any tuck pointing, rather you have re-pointed existing brickwork. Tuck pointing is really a lost art and it involves filling the joint with mortar – usually black, and then forming an insert formed from white cement to create a dead straight line usually about quarter inch wide which stands proud of the joint. Hard to explain but obvious when you see it. Having said that, it may be called something else in the States.
Hello Jane I’ve watched a few articles of yours you’re the best teacher coach or instructor ever (and I was a teacher myself). You’re laying down all important details, you show and break it down so that your audience understand the ins and outs of what they’re doing and why, therefore help them gaining confidence. Thank you so much for sharing your experience, your knowledge and your heart. These podcasts resume a long term experience based on observation, meticulous work and willing to do things right.
Leah, you are awesome! I wish that there were more trade teachers around like you. Your sincerity and supportive nature come through in every one of your articles. Even when you do a article on a subject that I’m aware of, I watch to learn more and get a boost of the confidence that you instill in us, your YT students. Thank you for all that you do! – Jeff
Hey Leah. I just want to say how much I love your website. I’m a remodeling contractor of 20 years and I love your attitude and the way you talk about repairs. It’s inspiring to hear someone with such passion about home repair. Please keep up the good work and I’ll keep perusal your website. BTW I’m in Western North Carolina.
This is not tuck pointing, this is ‘Struck’ pointing. “Tuck Pointing” is a whole other level of decorative finish altogether. I often see this misnomer on American pointing article titles. This is just another example of how once again the British and the Americans are countries divided by a common language.
If you have a brick structure built before the end of World War 2 ignore everything presented in this article. Because if you follow this article you will do much damage to your building. First of all, what was done here is not “tuckpointing”, it is pointing. Tuckpointing is a different process where a building is pointed with mortar that matches the color of the brick. After the mortar is allowed to set up some a fine 1/8″ groove is cut into the new mortar. Then usually white mortar is used to tuck a fine line into the mortar joint. This is done to make the wall look symmetrical. Second, if any contractor tries to use Portland cement on your structure built before the end of WW2 grab them by the back of their shirt collar and kick them in the …you know where and off your property. You must make sure that HYDRATED LIME mortar is used. It is a different technology. Yes, it comes in a bag and is also called mortar but it is very different. Hydrated lime mortar has been used in different areas of the world for thousands of years. For example, hydrated lime mortar was employed in the construction of stepped pyramids in Caral, Peru dating to 5,500 years ago. I have done restoration on many “historic buildings”, “historic” denotes time period and not significance.
Always Love seeing you Leah! Thank you, as always, you make all these ‘scary’ jobs seem manageable! I know I can do this if it should ever present itself. I do have one question for you if I may. When scraping the joint after applying the mortar, is there a specific depth the joint should be? Or do you just make it concave enuf so as not to be level with the brick (hope that made sense). T. Y.
Nice article. However, this is called repointing. Tuck pointing is different. It involves pointing out the brick, with a mortar that matches the existing work, giving a monolithic appearance. Next, a groove is cut into the mortar joints, to accept a thin bead of white lime putty. Repointing is commonly, and erroneously, referred to as “tuckpointing”.
Hey whats with that French packaging? Are you a Canadian from Quebec? Dam, no wonder I couldn’t figure out your accent. You sound to normal. I’ve got a big pointing job to do in a couple of weeks. Ill be using a pastry bag to hols and apply the mortar. Seems to me it needs to be a bit thinner to squeeze out, is that correct?
Hi Leah My house is a frame structure built on concrete block piers. Do I need to check the masonry joints on the concrete piers and if so how often do you suggest. We have mild winters with maybe only 8 to 10 hrs per night where temps drop below 32°. Most winter months the avg low temp 40° Not sure if temp is a factor in mortar failing.
Bought a 144 year-old money pit. Thanks for the craft and info! Is there ever a need to shim or jack a course of bricks, before tuck-pointing, if they have slumped over a hundred years? What exterior sealer do you recommend, once the tuck is done? The bones on this home are fabulous, but have been neglected.
Caution using a fortifier if your doing a chimney. I did and it cracked many of the brick edges. From what I learned (grinding it out) is that it made it much harder than the original concrete, thus is did not expand like the rest of the concrete, and with soft bricks, voila, lots of cracks. Bricks in this article do look ‘harder’ (than old 1950’s etc chimney bricks) and are used on a foundation (that does not expand). Good article, thanks
Nice job on the pointing 👍🏻 and Leah is an amazingly versatile teacher but this is another example where the same words have a different meaning in UK and America. In UK that style of pointing is called standard jointing (or sometimes recessed pointing) whereas Tuck pointing is a highly decorative and historic technique generally done only on very grand historic buildings mostly in London. It was done in the era when bricks were hand made and irregularly shaped and the main mortar is coloured the same as the brick and flush to the brick so the joints disappear to hie the irregularites. Then afterwards a very thin bead of contrasting lime putty is inserted (ie Tucked) into the centre of each joint in laser straight lines to create the illusion that the bricks are perfect and the gaps between them are tiny. The finished result is stunning.
I need to get back to our porch surrounding. The bad part about this project is that it is time consuming and tedious. You need to schedule a whole day to do it. Leah makes it look easier than the way I did it when I attempted it 18 years ago. Bringing the board to the level you need makes the simplest sense that you don’t even think to do. Or here’s a better idea, Leah could just come to my house and live for free and I can help her do all of my repairs. ~~wink~~
I don’t know why pointing is so fun for me. Other than when you do it right it looks amazing. What I did learn a long time ago was to use lime mortar only with brick to avoid spalling (braking the edges of the brick at the mortar joint because the mortar used was too hard). I’ve got family in Oklahoma where there are a LOT of brick structures that were repointed incorrectly and you can see how the cement they used just chews the brick up. Something I got to do a few months ago on concrete block walls was to fill in some large holes in some rooms that were being renovated. I mixed some really stiff mud and filled the holes, then I pointed motar lines in the mud to blend the repairs into the existing wall. That kind of work is my favorite.
Thank you, Leah, for this article and for saying, “You can do this.” I just got an estimate of $600 for stuccoing my chimney which is not special in any way. I asked how long it would take and was told a day. That’s $75/ hour! I’m going to tuck point it myself. I’m an older do-it-yourself-er and now feel like I can!
Great article, but people who have homes built before 1930 need to use a lime based mortar as opposed to a cement based mortar. The reason is that the bricks made before 1930 were very soft and the corresponding mortar was even softer. The mortar must be softer than the bricks, if it isn’t, it will end up destroying the bricks over time!
Wait longer to take the edges off the mortar and it will clean up nicer. You got mortar on the surface of the brick. Also think about using an acid wash solution after if you get mortar stuck to the surface. Muriatic acid one part acid 12 parts water and a little piece of cinder block to rub it. If it fogs up after wipe it with a dry cotton cloth. Mason mix and mortar mix are different. Either can be used for this. Also best to use a grinder and a tuck pointing grinder blade to take the old mortar out first. It will last decades longer if you are attaching mortar to clean brick rather than mortar to old mortar on top of the brick.