To frame a wall on a sloped floor, follow these steps:
- Measure and locate the new wall position perpendicular to your existing floor and ceiling joists.
- Set the floor plates first when your floor is uneven.
- Set the ceiling plates first.
- Measure out each individual wall stud.
- Attach the wall studs to the floor and ceiling plates.
The easiest method of framing a wall is to build it on the floor and erect it, ensuring it’s plumb straight up and down before securing. However, the wall must be angled or raked.
In this DIY video, Geoff shows how to build a wall frame to a raked or angled sloping ceiling using a bevel. Cut two 2-by-4 boards that are the same length of the wall as the top and bottom plate pieces.
If framing the wall with 2×4’s, you will need 2×6’s to cut from, or maybe 2×4’s for 2×4’s. Quirky architecture, crooked conversions, and loft extensions can cause rooms with wonky ceilings and sloping walls, which can present tough design challenges.
Adding an interior wall can bring more function to a room with a large, unused space. The basic steps include choosing the wall’s location, creating a stairwell, and attaching the ceiling finish. If you encounter an uneven floor or ceiling, use a laser level to identify high and low spots, then shim the bottom plate as needed to create a proper fit.
📹 How to Frame a Wall with a Sloping Ceiling
Framing walls is not that difficult. But there are some tricks when you are framing a wall with an existing sloping ceiling above.
📹 ANGLED CORNER STUD – Super Simple Framing Hack!
This type of thing makes me happy! This is no doubt an age old method but seemed too good not to share with you folk. Enjoy!
Hi great article and so satisfying when things eventually go well! You don’t swear as much as me – must be the camera!! A bit late to comment perhaps on the “noggin” issue but what I do is to stagger the noggins to get a good fixing (I am DIY so don’t have all the flash tools). Alternate noggins are in line with where the plaster board will need to be fixed and the others just below. I then fix another noggin on top and screw down into the lower ones so all are in line with plaster board. May be a waste of wood but produces a strong wall. Cheers Kim
It’s always nice when rough framing fits that well. It’s called rough framing for a reason. I have a few odd angle walls for our new master bathroom. Old house, bad original layout and gotta do what you can with the space you have. I have all my framing finally done next project is to pull down all the old drywall on the ceiling reinsulate with something better than 1950s coal slag mineral wool (nasty stuff) then new drywall….. I’d much rather build a new house easier faster and cheaper..
This didn’t work for me. I am using C24 timbers for my wall frames which are 95×45. I assume you used CLS which was 89×37 or thereabouts? In my case if I could find some timber that is 104×43 to make the fillet as described then this would work (same ratio as yours – just bigger overall to fit into my “cheese”). I suspect I will not be able to find such timbers so are there any others ideas on how to solve this? PS. In my case these are external walls that will be covered by OSB so having a small cavity behind their edges is not the end of the world but I would like to make the corners stronger (especially the ones that have French doors hanging on them).
Quick tip! For those that don’t have access to a table saw… For speed and saving money. Plasterer board the one side of the angle. Then before boarding the side which meets the angle fill the gap with drywall adhesive. Start from the bottom and work up. It sets rock solid and takes about 10mins for the same outcome. 👍
Been staring at the half finished angled stud walls to two en-suites for the best part of 8 years trying to second guess what the joiner was going to do next. Now, thanks to your article and this ridiculously simple, yet totally effective tip, I’ve got the confidence to do the job myself. My wife says ‘thank-you’….