Cork, a popular and versatile home decorating product, is back in popularity as furniture, walls, floors, and more. It is often referred to as spool knitting or French knitting, and is eco-friendly, inexpensive, multi-purpose, and durable. Cork is sourced from trees and has been a mainstay in interior design since the 1970s.
Cork is one of the most versatile home decorating products, providing a hardwearing finish to floors, walls, and ceilings while looking equally good covering furniture or small spaces. It’s pleasantly tactile, beautifully textured, insulating, and sustainably sourced from trees. Corkboards can be used to create decorative artwork, adding a pop of color to a room or mixing things up among the rest of the decor.
Caulk, also known as decorators caulk, is a form of sealant applied to joints, such as around skirting boards, windows, or doors. It is a flexible, waterproof sealant that is ideal for filling small gaps around door frames, windows frames, and skirting boards. Decorators caulk is essential for the final preparation of a project and used on various surfaces prior to decorating. Caulking gaps around skirting boards is the final touch for a smooth, professional finish.
Incorporating cork into home decor can be a beautiful and practical design practice, without going full shag carpet and lava lamp vibes. Follow these simple step-by-step instructions for DIY caulking success.
📹 How to Caulk Skirting Boards & Baseboards – 2020 Update
Today’s video is a complete guide to caulking skirting boards, base boards, architraves, any gap where over paintable decorators …
What do decorators use to fill cracks?
EVO-STIK Flexible Decorators Filler is an acrylic filler that is flexible and suitable for use in filling in fine cracks and cavities in domestic properties. The material can be sanded, painted, or papered over without exhibiting any signs of cracking or crumbling. Furthermore, the product can be used to seal low-movement gaps around window and door frames, skirting boards, and coving. It is also suitable for filling gaps in plasterboard and other internal fixtures prior to decorating.
Do you caulk before or after painting an interior?
Caulk should be applied before painting if the visible caulk lines will be visible, such as around windows, doors, and baseboards, or after painting if the caulk line will be hidden by trim or molding. Caulking is crucial for home maintenance as it seals gaps and cracks that allow water and air to enter the home, preventing moisture damage, reduced energy efficiency, and pests from entering through small openings. Applying caulk is simple and can be done with a caulk gun and caulk tube.
However, it is important to choose the right type of caulk for the job, as different formulations have different applications. Silicone caulk is often used in bathrooms and kitchens due to its waterproof and mold-resistant properties. Following the instructions on the package is crucial for the best results. Properly applied caulk can significantly improve the comfort and durability of your home.
What is the point of caulking?
Caulk is a flexible material used to seal air leaks between stationary building components and materials, such as doors and operable windows. It is essential to detect leaks and assess ventilation needs before caulking to ensure indoor air quality. Caulking can also prevent water damage in plumbing fixtures, and most come in disposable cartridges that fit in half-barrel caulking guns. Some pressurized cartridges do not require caulking guns. To use caulk, ensure adequate ventilation and purchase a half-barrel caulking gun with an automatic release.
How to use decorators cork?
The process entails running a finger along the joint, expelling any superfluous fluid, and then placing the joint into a damp cloth for cleansing.
How to use decorators caulk for beginners?
To prevent the cork bead from adhering to the surface, gently squeeze a small quantity of liquid detergent onto the bead and then run your finger across it to smooth the surface. Once this has been done, the bead can be placed in position.
What is corking in DIY?
Corking, also known as French knitting or spool knitting, is a simple craft that creates a knitted rope or cord for various crafts and decorations. It is done on a simple knitting loom and has numerous uses. In the 19th century, textile factories began using large automatic knitting looms for faster and finer threads. By 1867, most textiles were produced in factories, but corking remained a fun pastime for boys and girls.
Why do painters use caulk?
Sealants are used to seal cracks, gaps, and joints between materials, preventing moisture and drafts, and enhancing the final appearance of paint jobs. However, they are over-used and not of high quality. The difference between cheaper and expensive caulks is noticeable as they cure and age. Cheaper caulks tend to shrink more and pull away from joints as they dry, while expensive caulks lose their flexibility over time and crack and pull away from joints. Latex caulks are not suitable for exterior applications due to their inability to withstand the demands of materials expanding and contracting with temperature and weather changes.
What is cork in interior design?
Cork furniture and upholstery are gaining popularity in interior design due to its versatility and versatility. It can be ground and shaved for soft furnishings, and its natural grain can be tinted and stained for various patterns and colors. Cork is waterproof and fire retardant, making it popular in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundries. Its insulating qualities allow it to absorb and retain heat, and its acoustic properties make it suitable for commercial buildings. The design industry expects cork’s continued resurgence due to its environmental benefits and flexible interior application opportunities.
What happens if you caulk after painting?
Caulking walls and doors after painting is crucial to prevent water from seeping into the wall and damaging the paint job. It is an important step in a finished project, as without caulking, water can seep through the seams and joints, leading to rot and other issues. This article provides pros and cons of both caulk methods, allowing you to make the best decision for your project. Jim The Handyman, a licensed and insured handyman and home improvement specialist, offers a schedule service in Northern Virginia. Caulking is an important step in painting, and it’s important to know when to do it to ensure your satisfaction.
What is caulking in decorating?
Caulk, also known as decorators caulk, is a flexible sealant used to cover cracks and remove gaps in interior and exterior surfaces. It is applied using a caulking gun, which dispenses an even line of caulk to the surface. Caulk solves various problems in decorating, such as woodworking, sticking surfaces, repairing tiles, painting cracks, and sealing moisture-prone areas. It allows for seamless joining of woodwork, preventing noticeable gaps between pieces, and creating a waterproof and mold-resistant seal.
Caulk can stick surfaces back in place without the need for nails, and can be used to repair tiling in kitchens and bathrooms. It can also create a paintable layer on small hairline cracks within hours. Overall, caulk is a versatile and effective solution for a variety of decorating needs.
What is cork in decorating?
Cork, a porous, soft, and lightweight material, is a sustainable and eco-friendly choice for interior design projects. Its unique texture and softness make it a popular choice for flooring, walls, furniture, and home accessories. Cork is a non-toxic, waterproof, and highly insulating substance that is also a rapidly renewable resource. Designers and architects are increasingly considering how materials can be used aesthetically while creating sustainable environments.
Cork is a versatile material that can be combined with metal, wood, marble, and vegetable fibers to create unique and visually appealing designs. Its versatility makes it a popular choice in architecture and design, contributing to its growing presence in the industry.
📹 How to fill in gaps and cracks – coving, baseboards, cornice and trim
In this video i will show you how to fill in gaps in your cornice, coving baseboards and skirting boards. this is a simple way to fix …
?&w=400&h=300)
Man all your trying to do is help people and tremendously helped me. You don’t have to explain yourself to the know it alls. If they know it all why are they perusal a article that’s helping us new diyers! They have nothing better to do than sit around and watch articles they don’t need since they know how to do it all. Drives me nuts people doing that. This was a great article so thank you for helping us newbies!!!
Hi Charlie, I always go 90° and keep all internals true as possible….all properties are subject to seasonal movement and minor touch ups are quick to do if required…Gap filling foam and wood filler are an alternative too……I also find it much easier to cut in, all looks sharp and clean to the eye….for deeper areas you can use backer rod foam (polycord) and then caulk on top which prevents excessive shrinking….👍
I love how you also research and share tool sources from various countries. I’m so used to seeing YouTubers from the U.S. and occasionally U.K that I tune out but then I could suddenly relate when you made an Australian reference to Bunnings Hardware stores which are everywhere downunder (and have seen such caulking tools there)
Using the finger technique I always do my first run with my smallest finger as it’s a small radius followed by a second run with my index finger, this just cleans any excess left above and below the joint without touching the joint as it’s a larger finger with a bigger radius. Try it, it really does work. Great article by the way.
Thanks for this article Charlie, I found your website several years ago as someone recommended your Ultimate Siliconing article in a forum somewhere and I often find myself perusal your articles for help on various bits of DIY. I always love your very detailed articles and tutorials, and admire your reception to constructive criticism from viewers. It shows you have a real professional and mature outlook in life, and always trying to improve yourself. Keep up the great work!! 🙂
I sometimes get capable DIYers asking me to do jobs for them. I’ve been running a property maintenance company for 15 years. I’m happy to say that the only difference between me and them is I’ve probably done the job before therefore I probably know a few tips and tricks that they might not. I’m always happy to offer help and advice to DIYers. You’ve given quality in-depth advice here. Thanks for your article I picked up a few tips here. Caulk shrinks by 1/3 From applied to dry. so leave it a little proud when wet.
Another great article, I always screw and plug skirting then,take them off number each piece on the back with a sharpi, prime with crown acrylic primer/undercoat, then refit use grip adhesive and screws, it will never move and be closer to the wall, minimum caulking which I always touch up with BIN,so no reaction with emulsion
I had the opposite problem to you Charlie where my old cob walls were straight at all. This meant when the skirting was hard up against the wall there were places where there were 10-12mm gaps. I used instant plaster filler from Screwfix and it doesn’t shrink at all. Applied the same way with a tool. You can sand it if need be.
Hi again Charlie, Thank you for your reply. Unless the makers of gripfil have changed the ingredients these days, But i stuck my skirting on with gripfil in the 1990’s and any that out of large gaps at the top of skirting was left to set for a few days then undercoated and glossed with dulux gloss, But after a few days of drying the gloss still remained tacky and turned yellow.. only where the gripfil was. From now on i will always test a small area first, But these days, manufacturers have had to reduce or remove the solvents ingredient in their products to make them more user friendly. try a test piece and let me know if it has changed..👍🏻
Thank you very much Charlie for your very good article’s. i would like to mention, That I wouldn’t use gripfil at gap filling a skirting board as i used to it and when you overpaint it the stays tacky and it seems to go a shade of yellow. I tried this a few times when i was younger, But now use either flexi fix or Gripbond pro for sticking skirtings to the wall and use the evo stik caulk your using for along the tops of skirtings.
Always buy from a builders or decorators merchants it much less expensive than a diy store here in the uk. Also if you come across poorly applied unsightly caulk that has been done by others in the corners, take it out and do again. It can not be sanded down. Get the finish right before going on to the next area.
Great articles. I’ve done my fair share of DIY sealing and caulking in my time and all using the finger technique. Your articles on these subjects have shown me how to improve significantly, especially with the use of the scraper tools (which I’ve now ordered). I particularly like the way you refer to other countries during your article, which I’d imagine is a great help for them. Don’t often see that in foreign posts referring to the UK.
Have you tried putting kerf cuts in the back of wooden skirting board so it bends and conforms to the wall better? They need to be angled so you don’t cut the top of the skirting board. Its useful when there is a bow in the wall too. Great article Thanks for posting. I will be making my own profiling tool as i have some scrap pieces of perspex in the workshop.
Hi Charlie. Great series of articles – thank you! How would you fill a gap between a painted MDF skirting and a laminate floor which has settled slightly away from the skirting as the foam base has compressed? Clearly, as the floor is not going to be decorated, it is essential not to leave any caulk/gap adhesive residues…Any suggestions, please?
US DIYer here. Really enjoyed the article, plenty of people are scared of working on their homes because of how guarded the knowledge is. I appreciate these articles because directions for these types of simple tasks are assumed, but there is always room for learning new/different techniques and/or tips. I, for one, started caulking without cutting the tube open for the longest time and just cutting the plastic tip and cranking down on the caulking gun until it burst open. I had wondered for a long time if it was supposed to be that difficult to do, but I didn’t realize you needed to do both because most tubes don’t tell you how to access the product properly (on most construction/maintenance products). It was only after perusal something on YT that I discovered how foolish I was, and I am less concerned about doing a caulking job around the home. Thanks for all you do!
Screwfix do a couple of good ones in their no nonsense range. Their caulk is great but for big gaps I found an acrylic anti crack flexible gap filler perfect. It overpaints well and goes on a treat with almost no shrinking age too. But more expensive than no nonsense caulk though (£2.29 vs 99p) but worth the extra for bigger gaps.
I have successfully used an old credit card, either as is, or with the corner trimmed to provide the right size of angled bead. It works well with both silicone and caulk. As you mentioned, the corners on the tools available to buy tend to be too big for most situations. Also, it’s a good money saver! JB
Hi Charlie, very informative vid. I had someone in to fit skirting boards for me that are sitting on top of karndean floor. He corked in the top of the skirting boards but I don’t think he did a great job fitting the skirting as there are big gaps between the floor and bottom of skirting. Could I cork and use gap filler for that as shown in this article? Thanks
The main issue I find with caulking the gaps is that the paint “crazes” in time after painting over the caulk. It ends up leaving crack lines in the paint if that makes sense? You seem to have over come this problem and I would love to hear how. My tip for keeping the profile tools and your fingers clean is to use baby wipes – they are excellent for cleaning up and if you keep a set of scissors handy you can just snip a bit off a wipe rather than use a whole wipe each time. Likewise if you are using tissue, before you start tear up lots of small sections of the toilet paper etc and place them in an big pot and then you have them ready for when you need them as you do the job. Blue paper towel I find is the best for DIY and also on a side not is the best to use when checking for water leaks say around a pipe joint as the paper goes a clearly contrasting dark blue to the light blue of the paper. Much easier to see than when using white toilet paper.
Charlie, great vid. My only concern is with gap adhesive. Being an engineer I always think of the person that is going to come in behind me latterly to do some work or if I have to remove at a later day and the gap adhesive rips off the plaster work or paper. You end up with a much bigger job and the reason why I ALWAYS like to screw my skirting on. I wonder if there is a half way house between adhesive and caulk that files the gap and yet does not destroy the wall if you have to remove it.
Hi Charlie, great article. I’ve just had all my ground floor done in LVT Amtico. Our kitchen fitter replaced all the ground floor skirting boards with pre-primed MDF. At the top of the board its been a piece of cake to caulk it. But the gap between the bottom of the board and the floor is very uneven and has become a nightmare to fill. My old friend Arthur “Two Sheds” Jackson, a professional carpenter would have scribed the skirtiing to the floor and there would have been no issue. The floors solid but not that level even though it’s been screeded. What’s the best product and method to tackle this TIA.
Hi Charlie, I have really enjoyed your articles on skirting & their caulking – very useful for our Victorian terraced house. Just one question for you though – I’d really appreciate your feedback … My gaps, between the top of the skirting and the wall, are between 0 mm to 3 mm wide, so not as big as yours. Using the technique you described, I filled the gaps with the white-coloured Bondit solvent-free gap adhesive, and got a really nice & neat flat finish with the right-angled plastic profiling tool. However, I’m wondering whether I really need to caulk on top of this. Maybe a bead of caulking, profiled to a 45 degree angle, would cover not only the gapped areas filled with adhesive, but also the areas with no gaps within a single length of skirting – I think this might make the top of the skirting look more uniform along its length, masking both filled gaps and no gaps. I’d be grateful for any comment on this …
Hi, may I ask for advice please. I have a bathroom cupboard that I have redecorated due to a mould issue, and that included getting rid of an old skirting. Now it’s all repainted, I would like to fit new skirting. The problem is that the gap between the walls and floor tiles is not everywhere even and goes from about 15 mm minimum to about 25 mm! What to do in this case, please? It will be my first time fitting skirting boards so all tips are welcome. Thank you
Hi Charlie. No you definitely did accidentally say « silicone » instead of « caulk » in your last skirting article. Only once. I knew it was just a mistake, but anybody that didn’t could make a mess & waste time. I was badly advised at the sheds years ago – told that caulk & silicone were the same. So I mistakenly used « decorators caulk » to « silicone » my bath. Imagine my shock horror surprise to wake up the next morning to it all dry, cracked & shrunk! 😹Took a while to dig it out etc Waste of a day in total.
Thanks for the informative article, I learned a lot. I’m in the process of decorating. My flat never had a proper misting layer so things peel off easily. Couple of questions, can I caulk after painting, eg around cracks of door frames, I like the clean lines look. Finally, as a beginner, how easy is it to do myself… I bake and ice cakes… similar? 🤷🏽♀️
Thanks for posting. So helpful as always. With regard to your Abigail Ahern pro tip, I’d like to recommend 2 you tube series with tricks & techniques for making your space look bigger & more cohesive without the need for costly extensions/renos. Design rules Lawrence Llewelyn Bowen (yes, him!). The series focuses on the principles of good design (ignore the taste as this series was made in the nineties & just focus on the techniques) & Lisa Holt, an American professional interior designer, who does a range of articles but the ones re making a space look bigger Q&As are pure gold. Lastly, I recommend the actual Farrow & Ball shops (not DIY stockists) because they often employ art students who understand where the light hits the room & how to maximise that. I had an ugly outside wooden wall structure which stuck out like a sore thumb. I was quoted £500 to remove it. They recommended a colour which made the wall completely disappear!
Hi charlie. Very informative article. Thanks. As I have all makita 18v tools i recently bought their caulking gun. Not cheap at 200 pounds but oh so good. Constant pressure via the motorised screw with the trigger. No having to reload the trigger halfway through a run on as per a manual gun. Only drawback is its size. Slightly bulky for small spaces
Charlie, in the article you filled the gaps between the top of the skirting board and the wall with BondIt Solvent Free Gap adhesive, then you use a 45 degree bead of Decorator’s Caulk over the top of the Bondit. Are you not giving yourself unnecessary extra work here? I say this as The Bondit is overpaintable (like the caulk), so why bother with caulk ? Also, after copying your method on my own skirting board, I note that the caulk attracts all manner of dust (once dry), whereas the Bondit doesn’t (it stays clean). Using the profiling tool you described, I can get a nice professional 45 degree angled bead of Bondit. Always interested in any feedback, and wondering if any others perusal this article had a similar experience to myself …
Should always prime wood before caulking as caulk is not recommend on bare wood. It is more likely to shrink and will dry too fast making it weak and not as flexible. If not using your finger or for smoothing larger gaps, I would say the best tool for applying and smoothing caulk is a 1″ filling knife. It works the same as the Cramer FUJI right angle tool but doesn’t wear down like the silcone tool and gives a better finish in my opinion.
It’s never a good idea to apply latex caulk to a porous unprimed surface. The caulk will bond much better to a primed sealed surface. A porous (non-sealed) surface causes the moisture in the caulk to be absorbed into the unsealed surface while drying, making for a weak bond and subject to failure. Unprimed wood trim should (Always) be primed and sealed before applying latex caulk.
Great tips! What’s a brand of gap filling caulk (adhesive) in the USA? Just a note, “mist coat” is called PVA in the US. I paint my base the same color as walls before installing it, then just caulk the nail holes and gaps – finally I do minor amount of touch up paint over that caulk to finish. We used Behr Marquee 1 coat paint, eggshell, on smooth wall and 1 coat was all we had to do. Eggshell (not gloss or satin finish) allows just back rolling, no sprayer needed.
Great in depth article Charlie on one of the most frustrating jobs for the DIY’er. I came across the Kramer tool a few years back and love it. I know people in the trade frown upon it – but like you say unless you are doing this day in day out, we need the tools to help us. A friend who is a glazier fitted a new front door for me last week. I watched in awe as he siliconed round the frames in minutes, just using the nozzle and a quick finger swipe. I’ll stick to the Kramer! Thanks for comparing all methods in the detail that you did. Cheers.
I have done my shower and a small room. Not finished yet, intended to use the Cramer, but ended up using a mixture of both particularly in the small room. Great advice, it provided me with the confidence to try, not rush and not worry if I messed up. It’s not everyday you get to thank ‘Colin Firth’ for DIY advice – Thank you 😃
Hey, great article, I bought the Cranmer after perusal your article a few months ago and it’s changed my diy life (bit sad lol). What type of sealant/filler would you advise I use to fill gaps between pvc scotia and a plastered wall with emulsion paint? Reading online some people suggested polysulphide mastic, but I’ve never used this and I’m worried it will need doing again in a few years. The pvc scotia is covering a large ceiling area and it’s only accessible with scafolding, so I want to make sure it’s done right the first time. The area has also been prone to mould, so I want a sealant/filler that is resistant to this too. Thanks.
I’ve always avoided caulk after previous issues, however, after seeing this your article and needing to do a similar skirting I thought I’d try again! Unfortunately I seem to be getting a similar issue as before, where the caulk leeches through the paint giving a darker stain. I’m using a paintable caulk (Soudal). I guess I’ll have to seal it with some Zinsser product, but wondered if you had experienced an similar problems?
Great article, ty for taking so much time to article all your techniques. I am about to put in new pvc skirting boards up against wallpaper. I will have gaps as well. So I will have to use the gap filler. But how will the tool handle the running against the wallpaper, what would you think? Or have you tried it against wallpaper? Ty
Thanks for this Charlie. Could you answer me a quick q? I used your previous article earlier in the year to learn how to caulk my loft. Unfortunately during the UK’s recent hot spell a few have split (like you show at 2.52). Should I scrape it all off and start again, or can I apply a second layer to fill cracks? Thanks in advance
Hi Charlie, great informative and usable content as usual, I wonder if you can help me with a small problem, I watched a article last May that you made re the Everbuild foam gun and purchased one which was working well, I must say that I always clean it after use. Having not used it for 6 months I went to use it the other day and it seems to be blocked up, I can’t put either cleaner or foam through it. Do you have any advice or can you make a vid on how to dis-assemble & clean please as I don’t want to damage it!
Liked and subscribed half way through. Very thorough and brilliant descriptions! I had no idea it was so intricate and detailed a task… So a quick question then, builders have just finished a room and they say to caulk around all the edges first, then mist paint the room… you’ve said to do it the other way round (am about to follow your advice) what’s the downside to caulking first?
A point of note with the recommended Sashco Big Stretch caulk, if you are using a hard paint on the baseboards/skirting, like a 2K polyurethane, it will likely spider crack all over and look unsightly. The caulk is too stretchy of a substrate, and as the paint dries it pulls on the caulk and cracks. I learned this the hard way :-\\
Thank you so much! I am so new to this (and clueless) I didn’t even realise I needed a caulking gun to go with the caulk I bought. I’ve just got one and a profiling tool. Thank you for making the process very clear and straightforward! I’m always amazed and grateful people who know how to do this stuff take the time to make articles and show the rest of us.
Well, I ended up painting offices now hardly used because of Covid. I have never used caulking, but was supplied with all the paint. I decided to just give it ago and of course the bead was uneven and lumpy. Not happy with that I ran my finger along and it looks amazing. I didn’t release the gun though and thanks for that tip and others you have shared.
Very useful information, thank you. One snag I met was after cutting off the top of the calking stuff I found the tube was too long for either of my guns 🙂 Nearest DIY store is 13 miles away so I tried cutting off the other end manually pushing the plunger in. Made rather a mess and have a longer gun on order before I start on the next tube of compound.
Watching this article just before I put skirting boards on in a couple of days. I’ve already done the top coats on the walls in a very contrast colour, now I’m wondering how much of a mess I’m going to make and if I’ll need to recut everything in. I’m hoping the gaps are small enough I can just leave the caulk unpainted and it will look fine!
Should be priming the skirts before caulking. The caulk won’t adhere to bare wood well. Not decoration caulk. When your wiping the skirts, your allowing moisture into the timber. If your caulking onto oak you need to use a different products like CT1. And masking tape. Been a professional for nearly 35 years. Shouldn’t be caulking onto bare timber.
I enjoyed the detail in this article. I haven’t done a lot of caulking myself, but when I did some on a project I was doing, I experimented with a couple of ways of finishing. One way that gave good results was pushing the caulk along. Took a little practice to keep the pressure on the gun steady so the caulk flowed at a constant rate. I cut the tip at 45°, then squeezed the caulk out a bit to get started, then slowly pushed the tip along keeping just a little of the caulk visible at the tip. The back part of the cut nozzle then basically formed a concave bead automatically. I usually needed to finish it a bit with my finger or a tool, but there was very little waste.
I found some well maybe 2 dumb things in your article (although the rest is good). 1) you can paint over silicone if you paint with proper paint (in your understanding it would be a ‘hardcore’ paint not water based). 2) you can sand off the ‘bad’ side of the skirting wood to make gaps smaller or almost gone. But that’s more for a professional and passionate worker. 3) Some say using a human finger in works like fillings where they are made of many chemicals are no good. It makes sense because it’s not natural and having a plastic tool instead of a finger makes even more sense against that.
Thanks for you article!!! I got a Cramer kit all the way to Argentina so imagine how good I though it was your technique, thanks!!! One issue I had with the tool is that I got caulk dry on one of my cramer profile tools and I can’t get it out of it…any idea? The caulk I used was Protex PU 40C. Thanks in advance!
It all depends on if it is new construction or old construction, if the carpenter was good that installed the trim pieces being painted, what paint is being used, if you are painting the walls and if so are you sanding anything or parching. And if you are painting the ceilings too. It is hard to tell people how to paint and in what order from a computer when you don’t know the situation. Generally a pro painter can rolling the cieling after cutting in the cieling first, then cut in all the trim or spray it top and bottom but this is where it mattera if you are doing cielings and if you are spraying or Not. Then you cut the wall color by hand and you use a good paint so one medium coat is all that is needed, then you quickly roll the wall color and you are done. It dependa though on a few things like i said. How many people are working with you, how much you have to do and how much prep there is to do and what the customwr is paying and what they expect and how long and the quality indicated and paid for. I would usually rather cover the floors in paper and tape to the base board bottoms. Then spray cieling and overspray onto the trim that being my firat coat using that as primer if it isnt primed if it is then i just overspray a few inches. and also spray the baseboard with the same stuff but only after they have both been caulked cieling to crown and crown to wall and also baseboard to wall and baseboard to quarterround. The paper would be cleanly taped evenly to the floor with no gap in between the quarter round and the tape.
I’m so glad to find your article. Shame it wasn’t when I was doing the caulking and painting of my new room earlier this year… profiling tool now brought as I need to do some re-caulking – I have always used the finger method up until now but I think a profiling tool may be very helpful with the spaces I have behind my skirting boards still. I am so just like you, loving a clean and tidy caulking – it makes such a big difference 🙂
I was doing some caulking today, and remembered the time I watched your article about how to caulk. I didn’t remembered any tips or tricks 😅 but missed you and your articles. Now it is very strange that you posted a article with a similar topic exactly at this time ! 😮 I also modified my silicon gun as below: I changed the stepped rod with a same length screw and added two bolts, now I can run the silicon gun with drill on low speed ( It is best to put the gearbox in low torque screw driver setting to have more control ). With this modification the gun has a very constant supply rate, and also easier to use. Just keep the gun sturdy ( or add two rods to keep the drill) so the drill or gun doesn’t turn instead of supplying caulk.
It would be good to have a article on wood painting of skirts and doors. I just hate painting these. Always leaving marks everywhere. Should I use a hard brush or a soft brush? Are all brushes the same? Are all wood paints the same? Do I need to add extenders to paint to increase drying times for paint? So may questions.
I’ve just finished siliconing according to your relevant article and it turned out waaay better than my last time, then using all official sources I could find (with tools and the occasional finger, 45 degree cut nozzle, soapy water…). This article has just come up in my suggestions and I feel very tempted now to correct the terrible caulking the painter did along my skirting boards last year. They filled the gaps between the very wonky walls and the sttaight skirting boards with paintable acrylic and wiped it more or less horizontal with their fingers. Now it is a slightly indented surface with the occasional crack and some accumulated, uncleanable dirt/discoloration. I was wondering whether it is necessary to remove this old caulk before applying the new layer? It is in the same position as where you’ve put the adhesive first layer, only, it is one year old and not perfectly bonded.
brilliant, I love your attention to detail…great learning. One thing that stood out is that “its easier to cut in” with a radius profile rather than 90 degrees. I’ve just been scraping plaster out of internal corners thinking it would be easier to paint up to a defined point (painting a feature wall in dark colour). I’d be glad to have your further thoughts on this
Great articles! Wondering if you could give us the easiest and best way to remove silicone caulk from an Undermount sink : stainless steel sink, granite countertop. I am afraid of scratching the sink, and also not removing enough of the old worn down caulk. Obviously biggest concern is to avoid leaks! Please also Describe best cleaning method before applying silicone. Thank you!
Hey Charlie, loving your work. I bought the Cramer tool following you siliconing article and it took my fear away. I had a go, and did no worse than when I have paid a professional. You mention a radio 6 show in your article? I’m currently painting walls skirts and architraves – currently all the same colour (white), but was thinking of final coating trim in a colour, maybe I shouldn’t? Is the BBC 6 show available on BBC sounds? Any references I can google much appreciated. Thanks again for your awesome content – you have given me the confidence to have a go! 🙂
Thanks Charlie. Found your article on skirting boards, and followed up with this. Scary prospect having never done these before, but your tutorials are really helpful, especially as you discuss the pros & cons of the alternatives and essential requirements. My top tools were the bucket of water, toilet roll and wet finger! Thanks again. R.
Charlie, is the gap-filling adhesive stronger than wood? The skirting you’re using here is disposable modern stuff but I’m concerned about 280mm deep skirting that, being 120yr old is close grained & in one piece, and so pretty much irreplaceable. I don’t want to wreck it by assuming it will never need to com,e off the wall again. What would you recommend in this circumstance?
Literally finished decorating my lounge last week and the skirting is the last to go on. 120 yr old Victorian house with 144mm tall skirting. Found this article absolutely blinding! Charlie, you’re a legend mate and I can’t thank you enough for the wealth of info you provide. I even bought the profiling kit you did, so I can’t wait to us it. Keep up the great work!
Once again, amazing tips from you Charlie. Yours is probably the only website I never double tap forward, maybe more than twice backwards but never forward. It’s that informative! Happy to tell you that we’ve moved into our new house, I mentioned a couple of months back and I must say there’s a lot of work that we’d have to do ourselves. First off we put up our new sink, siliconed it, but it sank backwards a bit letting some of the dishwashing water pass through the crevices cuz I must admit here, we didn’t give it much time to dry, cuz we always seem to be in some sort of hurry that we mess things up. I on my own on the other hand, can do a lot better, lol. Anyhow, question is, can we cut back that silicone and take the kitchen sink out, pad it out underneath somehow cuz the guy who cut a whole for the granite has probably cut a mm or two deeper at the back. That’s what I understand from the scenario. Which would inturn create a seepage in the long run, not to forget the ants already digging their way into concrete. What’s your thought on this and can this mistake be corrected? Don’t want to call in that guy in again, they don’t listen so I’ll be doing this myself. Thanks
For your wooden boards scenario, why not use liquid nails (same size tube of glue) which will hardened as cured so dirt and fungus can be easily cleaned, whereas the soft silicone will let them penetrated & diff to remove. Have u ever think of the pros & cons of using waterproof liquid nails over silicone in some of your caulking jobs that needs painting onto the cured caulk?? Can u share your comments about caulking with liquid nails. Another pro is the high adhesive power.
What about sealing in between the floor board and the baseboard trim? If it’s not sealed, isn’t that space in between a great little nook for pet hairs, dirt, dust mites, fleas, spiders, and even enourage mold growth by holding onto beads of water after mopping floors or a spill? Im not a construction expert at all but have been dabbling into all of this as a mom and house manager (i was a chemical engineer before in semiconductor manufacturing in the “defect” monitoring department….lol how ironic!). I work very hard TRYING to keep things clean and healthy for our family in thus 1500 ft home (2 large dog, 2 adults, 2 kids). And regarding our floors, I have not only noticed our dog hair peering out from the cracks of floor board trim from time to time but also if there is ever a spill or you have a puppy who has an accident on the tile floors the grout acts as a website, and that website eventually goes into the edge which is like a moat… A little collection full of grossness! I started pulling off our floor trim because various parts of it were driving me crazy with so much debris that appeared to come out from them after I just cleaned! I would already see ants and other small bugs tend to weave in and out of them from time to time so I suspected it might even act as “protected” bug incubators! We own a 4 plex next door which ive also been renovating (mostly the design, but also help clean, paint, etc)! We made them Beautiful with engineered wood floors and real wood trim, and even real hardwood cabinets etc.
Great article and as always useful. Have you had any issues with crazing/cracking after painting over the caulk? This seems to be the biggest issue after using emulsion over caulk and people recommend to use BIN primer over the caulk but I’m worried about flashing as BIN is strong shiny stuff that tends to show through after even a few coats with quality paint
Hi Charlie, love your articles, please keep them coming. I need to fill gaps between a ceiling and a green oak beam that has shrunk. Some of the gaps are about 10mm. I’m thinking of using the Saves Nails gap filler for this. Would you agree? I noticed at 9:08 in the article you have beams too. What did you use to fill the gaps around them when you did your bedroom? All the best.
Hi Charlie! Yet another great article thanks for the updates. Great tip on re-sharpening the Cramer tool. I knackered my 90° one doing skirting. You have me worried now that I should use the diagonal one but I have found the 90°makes it easier to cut in rather than more difficult. Can you explain your process for painting? I would normally caulk, then prime woodwork with BIN then 2 top coats. Then top coat the walls. I do it this was as I can mask off the skirting etc to avoid roller splash when I do the walls. I am using the tape to get the cut lines though, I do them by hand.
Hi @CharlieDIYte I need some advice. I have installed skirting boards as the final item after a floor has been tiled and walls painted. I understand this is not the ideal scenario. The bottom of the skirting boards where they meet the floor has gaps where wood and floor are not perfectly level. Would i fill those gaps with caulk or silicone?
Hi Charlie, you have really spurred me on and given me the confidence to complete my DIY projects. I am a DT teacher in a UK secondary school and it is great to see an intelligent, comprehensive approach for us layman’s, delivered with humility. To show my appreciation, I have subscribed and bought a few bits via your Amazon store. Could I ask a quick question – I want to caulk around the edge of my uPVC windows i.e. where the newly plastered wall meets the window frame? Can I still use the Evostick caulk you have used? I wasn’t sure if the caulk would adhere to the uPVC (I saw a fellow viewer recommended ‘Nemesis Mighty Caulk’). I will be painting a coat of Crown’s clean extreme scrub able paint post caulking. Many thanks if you get a chance to answer this?
I used your article for siliconing the bathroom and bought all the tools you recommended and it works great! I am totally in love with this little tool and I will use it again in next few days for caulking the skirting to wall. I do have one technical question if you would be able to advise. Does the new engineered wood floor needs caulking to the skirting board as well? Or it just requires the caulking between skirting boards and wall? Thank you in advance.
Another great article Charlie – one thing I can recommend as a brilliant skeleton gun is this: amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013SVXL5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1, which features an automatic drip-stop feature – and works brilliantly – the caulk or silicon stops the second you release the trigger so no mess.
I’m a big wet finger fan, though the smoothing tools are brill. I’d also recommend applying the minimum amount of caulk necessary. I rarely cut the end of the nozzle to widen it – the small point allows a lot more precision during application. The other thing I’d add is that gun work gets better the more you do it.
Great article Charlie. I subscribed to your website as I have plenty DIY jobs to do. Can you advise what adhesive I can use to full gaps between wall and skirting? Product recommend by you is not avaible in Screwfix and I’m limited to it (becouse of childcare) so what else would you recommend? Gaps are circa 5-6mm. Second things are gaps in between skirtings and architraves (1mm). I bought mitre saw but there are no right angles at home, at all. So I lost my patience and I gluead all with gaps. I wish to finish all neatly but I afraid that caulk or wood filler will leave visible mark what I won’t be able to overpaint. I have 2 part Ronseal wood filler but I’m not sure that will be OK for purpuse. I’m gonna buy primer for MDF and tools to finish it perfectly, then paint waterbased silk dulux white paint. Help me please!
Another stuff up by the builder is going to be fixed. Thank you Bill. (Must be nice being tall and not needing to move a ladder as your apply it as you go 😁). This may help those of us with old eyes. When you cut the plastic dispenser nozzle, use a Texta and put a black line along the “top” of the dispenser so you can see the appropriate orientation to get a good bead loaded into the target area. I hope that makes sense and it saves even just one person from stuffing up the application of the filler like I did. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ 👍
Hi, and thank you for your excellent article. Would you recommend the same product for gaps between old wooden cornice and rendered internal walls? Shrinkage of the render over the years has opened up some large gaps (5-7mm) that a previous owner filled with silastic that’s also stuck to everything in sight. Once I’ve cleaned everything up, I want to make a better job of it than he did.