This article delves into the meaning of “MW” in kitchen designs, its various uses, and how to incorporate it into your own kitchen design. MW stands for “microwave”, and it is a type of oven that uses a compass floor plan symbol and scale measurements. It is essential to understand the layout of kitchen floor plans and the common symbols used in kitchen floor plans.
When designing a kitchen renovation, it is crucial to communicate properly with your contractor and understand the terms used in the design, production, and installation of handmade kitchens. DW and MW are abbreviations or short forms in the kitchen industry, with DW standing for dishwasher and MW for microwave.
In modern kitchens, MDF stands for medium density fiberboard, a man-made material created by combining wood fibers and resin. It is often used for kitchen cabinets. Microwave drawers are an excellent addition to an entertaining zone in kitchen designs. Modular kitchens feature single items of furniture, such as cupboards and cabinets, rather than long rows found in the fitted furniture category.
In summary, understanding common cabinetry terms and abbreviations is essential for successful kitchen design. By understanding these terms, you can create a more cohesive and functional kitchen that maximizes space and functionality.
📹 KITCHEN TRENDS 2024 | Interior Design
It’s that time of year, where we look ahead to see what is projected to be on trend for your Kitchens in 2024 in the Interior …
What does HMR mean in kitchen?
To ensure a quality end result when working with cabinetry, it is essential to educate yourself and ask the right questions. For instance, you should know about melamine and HMR, which stands for highly moisture resistant. Some cabinet makers use a modular system to keep costs down by offering a limited library of shapes and sizes for cabinets. This can result in cabinets that don’t fit your space, leading to unsightly fillers.
On the other hand, custom cabinetry is purpose-designed to fit your space, with all cabinets being equal width and filling the space from one wall to another. Although it may cost more, there is no wasted space and they look like they are made to measure. By asking these questions, you can ensure a quality end result when working with cabinetry.
What is the meaning of G kitchen?
A G-shaped kitchen, resembling the letter ‘G’, is a versatile design that offers four sides of counter space, similar to the U-shaped kitchen with three sides. It can be used for a full kitchen renovation or to maximize space. This layout, also known as a peninsula kitchen layout, is an extension of the classic U-shape kitchen design, providing more storage and workspace. It’s ideal for family life or busy households, making it easy to prepare meals while enjoying open-plan dining or entertaining. The G-shaped layout is perfect for families or busy households, making it easy to prepare culinary treats while enjoying open-plan dining or entertaining.
What does FH mean on a kitchen plan?
The typical order form of kitchen cabinets can be confusing for those unfamiliar with the codes. The standard format used by most cabinet companies for identifying cabinet sizes and initials can vary greatly. However, if you learn from one manufacturer, all others are usually not very different in their codes. The most common code is FH (Full Height Door), BWB (Base Cabinet with Waste Basket), BFP (Base Filler Pullout Like a Spice Rack), and DB (Drawer Base Cabinet). It is important to verify the correctness of each code to ensure everything is correct. The matching wall end panel, like a custom panel, matches the door style on the exposed side.
What is the slang kitchen?
The kitchen, a crucial part of a restaurant’s back of house (BOH), is a hot, fast-paced environment with tight deadlines and sharp objects. It is essential to maintain a good relationship with the kitchen to ensure smooth operations. To show respect for their work, bartenders, servers, and restaurant managers should make themselves easy to understand and communicate effectively. This can be achieved through various strategies such as nuke it, on deck, on the fly, and on the line, where line cooks have their own stations to prepare food. By understanding and addressing these challenges, bartenders, servers, and managers can create a more efficient and respectful environment in the kitchen.
What is MW in floor plan?
This guide provides an explanation of floor plan symbols and abbreviations, which are essential for homebuyers and developers. It covers common symbols and letters, such as L, L, MW, M, NTS, Not To Scale, OC, and ON Center. These symbols help visualize a building’s layout and components, representing elements like doors, stairs, and furniture. Understanding these symbols and abbreviations is beneficial for both homebuyers and developers.
What does MW mean in a kitchen?
A microwave oven, also referred to as an “electronic oven,” is a kitchen appliance that employs high-frequency electromagnetic waves to facilitate the cooking process.
What does MW stand for in?
MediaWiki (MW) is a software that runs websites powered by MW. It is a unit of power, with MW being the frequency range of 530 to 1700 kHz. MW is also used in various games, such as Call of Duty 4: Modern Warfare, MechWarrior, Need for Speed: Most Wanted, and MW (manga). MW is also used in various media, such as the country code top level domain for Malawi, the MW (medium wave) frequency range, and the MW (file extension) of a Maple software worksheet. MW is also used in various media, such as the Japanese film Museums and the Web, the Japanese manga series Mythic Warriors, and the Indian magazine.
What is WF in kitchen?
Fillers are wood strips used between cabinets and structures, mimicking the shape of base cabinets. They are straight and can be used on base cabinets but not on wall cabinets. Filler strips, typically eight feet long and varying widths, are multipurpose and can be used with tall cabinets or as top crowns. Scribe (SM8) is an eight-foot, thin, flexible strip used to disguise gaps from uneven wall or ceiling surfaces where any cabinet touches a structure.
What is the meaning of MW in construction?
A megawatt (MW) is the standard unit used to measure electrical power in the International System of Units (SI), equivalent to 1 million watts or 1, 000 kilowatts (kW). It is used by homes and businesses to describe the rate of electricity consumption, similar to horsepower in a car engine. The prefix “megas” denotes a factor of a million, and the base unit is the Watt. The term was coined to describe large amounts of computer memory.
What is meant by MW?
In the field of power, the terms MW (million watts) and kW (one thousand watts) are frequently employed to quantify generation or load consumption, respectively.
What does MW mean measurement?
A megawatt (MW) is a unit of power equivalent to one million watts, indicating the capacity of a power source to deliver energy at a rate of one million joules per second. Power plants typically use MW as their primary measurement of output capacity. A megawatt measures the power capacity of an electrical system, providing an indication of how much electricity can be produced at any given moment. On the other hand, a megawatt hour represents the amount of electricity that a system delivers over one hour. For example, a 1 MW solar array running continuously at capacity for one full hour would theoretically produce 1 MWh of electricity.
📹 4WD Canopy Setups, How to NOT MESS IT UP
4WD canopies are easy to get wrong especially if its the 1st or 2nd one you are building or fitting out. Before you fit them out follow …
I asked all kinds of questions about the 4 thousand pound towing difference of 2003 silverado and 2015 silverado. Salesperson, service persons, no clue. It’s the boxed frame. Don’t remember how I found that out. Probably asked the right person the right question. That’s you. Amazing and thoughtful. Thanks for bring it. Good job.
This is interesting to me. I live in the states in a town where the power goes out often. I designed my setup around the idea of a portable power generator (powered by solar on the RTT), that I can pull out to power the house, or whatever I need as needed. It keeps the fridge always on when in the truck but can easily be pulled to power whatever I need in a power outage, be it power tools, home fridge/freezer if needed, and power home lighting. Everything had to be modular to make it work, but if a friend loses power I’m the one they call. Also relatively light and was completely DIY. But being able to remove the power source as needed was the key.
Great vid – just going through this on dual cab, wish i’d thought of all this earlier. Please don’t forget ball weight for any trailers/caravan plus GCM if you ever want to tow! My canopy, extended range tank, bar work & ute full of people puts me over GCM for a 3T caravan without any gear in the back. Looking at going to canvas canopy now to make it work.
Building out my canopy now. VERY cognisant of weight. down to the point of the thickness of the ply depending on where its being installed. I know My camping will never be extreme any more. I’m a little past that adventure, so My road conditions will be soft road and a little sand. This will allow me to reduce the amount of spare parts. My point is consider where you intend on going too. My canopy can be removed with jacks as well, so If I do plan to do some more ‘robust camping, I’m versatile. Versatility is my benchmark. Was never going to get a fridge slide of any type. never saw the point of sliding a box out that could be opened in place. I’m confident that I wont reach my GVM by a long way. Thanks for the vid
I’m a novice 4wdriver and I’ve inadvertently, followed most of these steps for my 3/4 canopy. Fridge is held in place by straps and I have a step if i need it everything is in boxes 1 box food, 1 kitchen etc. etc. And having some tray left over at the back means I can either carry all the swags back there and when I get t camp but the butane cooker on the tray and then I done t need a table And I can still empty it all out for work .
Another great article. I just do not understand why people put a Ute Canopy on the back of their Ute and over fill it with junk! Also I have never understood why people put on a Canopy and then a Roof Top Tent? When there is so much room to sleep in the standard canopy, not need to waste the time and money on a rooftop tent. Trust me, having driven adventure tour across north Africa, about Europe, and skinny Scandinavia to Nordkapp for over 5 years! I used to sleep under the couch in one of the lockers 6 to 8 months a year solid each year. Well, I may have bought myself and slept in the backseat, quite often, too . But the lockers were much cooler and easier to sleep in .
Hi Ronny- I would like to see a article from your perspective on dust control, what is the best way to keep it out/ or reduce it from getting into your gear or if it is possible to achieve? do canopies actually keep it out? I’m curious as I’m contemplating getting into a ute style setup and knowing what is better would help me make some decisions up front. Any input would be great
You know I kicked myself for not adding this and that, cooker trays custom trays drop slide ect. Just went for the basic box canopy with a good elec set up. I am so happy I was so more broke $$$ back then and didn’t fall into the look at how good… um heavy i am now. One more addition to your very informative article would be the use of the duel cab back seat. My little ol Luxy mostly travels with the back seat folded away 95% of the time. Heavy items like tool bags, even the heavy cooker get stored in there.. Making use of that space for heavy items gives me so much more piece of mind that my chassis is going to stay straight. 60-80kgs when bounced over a rutt is not just 60-80kgs and more like 120-160 kgs and there is the main reason for broken back canopy tears… Great vid
This is for a wagon… but when I went from a ute to a wagon it’s had a custom setup in the rear which was everything I needed. But no fridge slide. The fridge has a hole I guess you could say it doesn’t sit on top. So I had to make a get get out of jail free fridge slide for that weekend. It ended up being a sheet of ply with some holes cut out for the tie downs and it has 2 pieces of alloy angle on the walls that surround the fridge. Slide the fridge out and when it goes to drop the angles stop it. With still 300mm of ply sitting on the angles.. its been 8 months now and I still haven’t built my “proper” fridge slide because.. it just works lol
On weight… I initially bought/installed a twin-draw setup in the tub. At ~100kg it was heavy. After a number of trips, I realised that a draw should be ONLY for things I wanted to get to every day. Why was the recovery gear stored in a draw FFS. So I split the pair of draws, installed one, and put everything else into plastic tubs. Anything I needed to access everyday in the draw, and everything else in boxes strapped down. And all the small-but-heavy stuff (tools/jacks/shackles/etc) now go in the rear passenger side footwell.
Call me a negative buzz kill if you like, but I can’t wait to see the custom canopy industry rationalized. I will never understand how we got to $10,000 or $15,000 or $25,000 dollars for an aluminum box, just so we could go camping?? I mean for millions of people, their 4×4 ute is probably only worth $20k to $35k. How the fck do you justify spending 40% of the value of the WHOLE vehicle on an aluminum box with overly complicated 12V systems (which you don’t need anymore), push-button dick warmers, fancy disco lights and a kitchen fit for a 5 star hotel? I mean sure, if your ute is worth $60k to$80k then $10k on a flash canopy makes a little more sense I guess. The companies (Norweld, MITS, Boss, Chivalry etc etc….there’s so fkn many of them) are laughing at us. Their profit margins would be obscene. Once you’re set up to punch out the shapes and you have the data for about 6 different vehicles you’re off and racing. To call every canopy “custom” is bullshit IMO. You can knock these things out of a factory jig real fast. Order shitloads of materials and pay a couple of young fabricators about $60k a year. I’d wager the pricier ones are ripping 200% margins out of the customer in the name of “game changing, next level, must have, ultimate” upgrades. I swear to god, if I hear the word “ultimate” in this industry one more time I’m gonna lose my shit.
I know people that have the “full package” canopy set up with everything including the kitchen sink installed and they end up toruing more uncomfortably than what I do with a very basic set up, I just have a little 1000mm canopy with a fridge and some draws I don’t even have a fridge slide and I can tour more easily based off the fact that I’m light. And having that small of a canopy leaves empty space in the tray for carrying things like wood rubbish all sorts of messy items you won’t want to have in your nice canopy set up, and at the end of the day it’s simple but it achieves the same purpose, it’s a lockable place that keeps your Camp gear out of the weather and that’s it. The guys I go with that have massive set ups are so nervous off road due the the amount of weight over the back axle and there’s been multiple times where cars have almost rolled on tough tracks. All those guys are opting out of their massive set ups and going back to small set ups
Ive had a compact canopy with duels spares. Things I’d change if I had my time over: mounting the awning on the opposite side to the fridge, maybe getting a quarter length canopy, going with the old style fold out RTT (lighter, you should have time to set up when you are camping), getting a track correction to prevent dual spares. One thing I would recommend though is to pull the canopy off for a few months a year so you can service/detail it and drive with just a tray and going over the weigh bridge before a big trip. Another thing if you are starting from scratch is do you even need a tray body when you can get roof conversions for wagons and troopies.
When I see any vehicle with gutter roofing and the type of connections where they meet,that point is under so much stress,twisting and loading that the sealant will crack and open up to let water into the roof cavity . I know I had a 1991 Nissan Safari and the entire gutter around the roof rusted out . I had that vehicle for 30 years .
I’m into convenience, so yes our setup is heavy, but touring is our aim with ability to do tracks also. Convenience meant fitting a Bundutop RTT & Bunduawn 360° awning. Bundutop mattress is very heavy, ditched it for self inflating that we leave inflated, much lighter. I then addressed counterweighting it by placing 60litres of water down low, and currently adding diesel 80lt subtank infront of axle. Yes, water gets used along with fuel so counter weight is reduced but at least I addressed it as practically as I could. Wagon is GVM upgraded, full floor to roof storage system, lighter items up high, heavier down low. Yes, our table can be 1st item out, last item in, but with our slide out Fridge/coffee pod M/C – induction cooker/washing shelf, slide out food storage – preparation area, the table very rarely sees light of day. Coffee M/C – milk frother utilised daily. Yes, you’d consider my system over the top, but cripes it supper convenient. On the fridge type, just can’t get my head around an upright fridge on corrugated roads. Contents would go all over the place, at least in a chest fridge they stack down, bounce up then lower back down in same origin as they were placed usually, staying in place so to speak. Nah, I’ll stick to my combined EvaKool chest freezer/fridge thanks. Convenience beats basic hands down, wifey gets all meals cooked for her, roof top bed made up for her, seat produced within seconds of stopping, if I’d stuck to basic setup she’d stay at home. Years of experience here, done basic, at my age it must be convenient.
Super cool stuff! But the actual outfitting and the stuff has really become the adventure in a set up like that. A great four-wheel-drive, proper tools to fix things in the bush and the Then get the best base camp backpacking equipment and your set. Use the vehicle to carry some extra water, maybe even a simple platform on the top that you set your backpacking tent up on so you’re not down on the ground if that’s what you prefer. All the talk about time the rooftop tents take less time to set up, really? You’re out on vacation/holiday. Are you really worried about 10 minutes of set up time? But again, all that stuff is super cool and I think the stuff has become the actual hobby. Keep it light and simple and quit. Trying to take all your home conveniences out in the bush with you. And if your spouse needs all that convenience? They going to be happy out there anyway so just leave them at home.
This is a real good article given my rig atm is tub n canopy and looking at going canopy tray when the ranger hits 10yr old (as a bday treat for it). I have considered a full canopy multiple times but after this article, I might go either a half canopy with tilt slide to my 60L chest fridge and one drawer one side and one long slide to the other, or a quarter canopy with just the fridge and double stack drawers on the other. It is odd on the second one but I have plans to remove my backseats for more storage/drawers anyways so anything like my swag and sit in cab anyways.
i think there’s an advantage to having two 40l fridges instead of one 80l. you can take 1 or 2 depending whats needed. you have redundancy. you can have 1 fridge 1 freezer with no concerns about the fridge getting frozen or the freezer not being frozen. you can put one in a trailer giving you one in camp one in the vehicle. 2 40l might pack better than 1 80l. weight difference for two 40l engel vs one 80l combi engel is 8kg in the 80l favour. but you have the ability to leave 24kg at home if you only need a 40l that trip. max power consuimption is 1.8 ah more for 2 40l engels than 1 80l engel combi, it’s not no difference but it’s also not a massive difference considering the lithium and solar available these days.
I have been perusal people set up utes and canopies for many years and have been laughing at many set ups. Now your talking about what I have been laughing about. My canopy has no heavy draws, no drop fridge slide, no steel fridge slid, no oven, no microwave, no big inverter, no induction hot plate, no kitchen slide, no false floor, no false wall to hang all the high tech 12v bells and whistles and only one spare wheel and my wheels are alloys not heavy steel. Another thing to think about is the spare weight carrying over the front axle. I have air compressor and other gear under the bonnet or to the front rather than in the canopy. Glad to see you have come around and are now promoting weight consciousness. Love your website.
Banga article Ronny! Weight distribution is often overlooked. Just as you said, we have all been there my friend. Light weight is the best. One thing I tell people new to camping/4x4ing is spend a little extra on hiking equipment, get used to using it and you’ll save a s$&T load of weight and it encourages a minimalist approach to camping. K.I.S.S.
Thanks.I really like the idea for plastic boxes for work and camping quick swap. I am going to set up new canopy 600mm wide aluminium shelf and side drawer for work and another side put Packout system to carry some tools and gear when I am doing daily task, when I need camping will manage swap packout with plastic containers, this set up is way less weight than old school plywood. You are right, set up as you need.
Too much attention on rear axle, what no one is talking about is the front axle load Most don’t realise once you add a bull bar and winch, 4 adults most of the mid range Ute’s are at their max front axle load and that’s before the canopy goes on let alone the stuff you want to put in it Please do an episode highlighting this issue which is the real elephant in the room
I think the No1 mistake is buying a Dual cab, an xtra cab or single cab chassis is a better option, most dual cab setups I see only have two people and the back seats are crammed full of stuff that’s hard to get to, the extra weight of the 2nd cab puts you on the backfoot from the start, xtra cab are good because they have suicide doors makes it easier to get at stuff from a larger opening, single cab is better as you can have a decent canopy and keep a lot more weight in front of the rear wheels
As I get older I only want to open/move one thing to get to another. A canopy with upright fridge, draws and shelves; means everything is ready to go and easy to access. With driver, 40L water, 70L fuel, bull bar, rock sliders, canopy, fridge, electrical package and camping gear for touring I’m at 3t with a GVM of 3.45t in the Dmax using 12L/100km.
Love this I’m doing my new build a 2014 Toyota Hilux N70 tray back auto for the first time 150k klms awesome find it’s my first auto 4×4 I’ve had landcruiser and prado what I’ve decided to do to this build is what this man is telling you and it’s what I’ve learned from years of remote living if your looking for a cool time with the misses and kids while singing songs and all the mods for comfort or more for show don’t just ask for advice call the bank for your next stupid purchase because your a kings king yes Chinese camping worries worrier K I S S keep it simple stupid