To raise a door header for taller doors, follow these steps:
Remove the existing header and use a reciproc saw to cut fasteners behind the plaster on the room side. Run a new, full-width double 2×6 header from the back side with access from the back side. If you don’t have trimmer studs or other support available, fasten the header into the king studs with lag bolts.
Increase the height of the frame and use standard size prehungs instead of getting custom height doors.
Frame a door rough opening efficiently with professional carpenter’s tips and tricks. Measure the rough opening for the door and add 3 inches (76 cm) to determine the size of the header.
Consider moving any electrical wires or support structures like a header or columns before making the exterior door opening bigger.
Learn the step-by-step process of replacing a load-bearing door header with essential tools, materials, and techniques.
Remove the interior and exterior casing (trim), remove screws or cut nails, and use jacks to raise and support the beam. Cut temporary posts to fit snugly while working.
Cut drywall about 1 1/2″ from the ceiling and remove it. The roof is mostly self-supporting, so remove it and move it up.
Cut more Sheetrock to expose the support studs holding the header. Build a temp wall to carry the door. Install wood shims to square up the door and nail through them to fasten it to the walls.
Fill the wide opening with concrete, level it to existing footings, and let it cure. Use pressure treat on top of concrete and spray-foam that’s used on the door.
📹 DIY – Raising A Header / Doorway 🚪For A Taller Doors ( None Loadbearing )
📹 Raising up header to install a door
Truecarpenters. @InsiderCarpentry @HomeDepot @lowes.
Would this same approach work on a bedroom door on a wall that could be a load bearing wall of the house? Basically I need to do the same deal to a few doors in the house – but with doing this will the centre of the door frame still have support? As I saw you just run a 2×4 between each ‘cripple’ and then cut the over hanging ‘cripples’ down to size With this will the centre of the door frame still have enough support without a continuous 2×4 running straight across which the ‘cripples’ rest on?