To add Freon to your air conditioner unit, follow the step-by-step guide provided in this article. Turn off the AC, locate the service valves, and check for air flow. Before adding additional Freon, ensure proper home maintenance for optimal cooling performance.
Addressing Freon to an AC unit requires safety, as it involves working with a dangerous chemical, a pressurized tank, and intricate equipment. Any part of the process going wrong can permanently damage the AC unit or cause injury to oneself. Contact a local HVAC professional for this type of service.
To recharge Freon, take refrigeration courses at a trade-school, pass the EPA exam, and purchase all the necessary tools. It is not a job for the inexperienced, as your air conditioner is a hermetically sealed system. For example, if your air conditioner was installed with 5 lbs 7 oz, the temperature difference should be between 15F and 20F degrees on a correctly charged A/C system. If it is more than 20F, there is not enough air movement.
In conclusion, adding Freon to your air conditioner unit requires general knowledge about ACs and specific tools. However, it is not a typical DIY project and should only be attempted by experienced individuals. Proper home maintenance and understanding of the importance of handling refrigerants are crucial for maintaining optimal cooling performance.
📹 How To Add Refrigerant To Your Air Conditioner R410A & R22
Refrigerant can be purchased here: abilityrefrigerants.com America’s #1 Choice For Quality, Affordable HVAC Equipment: …
How much does Freon cost for a home AC?
Homeowners need to consider the cost of a residential air conditioner Freon refill, which can range from $200 to $400, depending on the type and size of the HVAC unit. Labor costs can be an additional $70 to $100 per hour. Recharging a home AC takes no longer than 5-10 minutes, and if the unit is low on refrigerant, 2-4 lbs. per ton of AC cooling is needed to refill the refrigerant to optimum levels. Most houses have air conditioning units ranging between a half-ton to 5 tons, so a 3-ton unit will need 6-12 lbs. of Freon and take no longer than 2 hours to recharge.
It is worth hiring an HVAC technician for a Freon recharge, as it requires experience and knowledge. EPA section 608 of Clean Air requires licenses for anyone who purchases or handles air conditioning refrigerants. Recharging with the wrong coolant can ruin the unit and require a replacement. It is in the best interest to hire an expert technician for a proper job. Central Heating and Air Conditioning in Roswell can help with air conditioning repair.
Are DIY AC recharge kits safe?
Carr Subaru advises against using DIY vehicle AC charging kits, as they can damage your car and fail to address important procedures. The A/C system in modern cars is complex, and adding the wrong amount of refrigerant can cause it to malfunction. Carr Subaru recommends visiting an authorized Subaru dealership for proper recharge by trained technicians using special tools.
DIY A/C charging does not patch most leaks, as it may not be possible to locate and patch a leak before refilling with refrigerant. While some compounds in DIY kits are designed to fill small leaks, larger leaks will still remain. Carr Subaru’s technicians have special tools to locate and patch leaks, ensuring proper patching.
Using a DIY A/C recharge can on a car with a leak will result in gas coming back out of the system, wasting money. Carr Subaru believes it is smart to trust the pros when it comes to air conditioning service.
What kind of Freon do I need for my home AC?
To choose the best refrigerant for your AC unit, you should use R-22 or R-410A. These two types are commonly used in HVAC units to cool interior spaces. If your unit is older, you should visit an HVAC supply store or contact a local repair company. If you need R-22, you can find it online or search for it on Google. The sticker or plate on the compressor or evaporator should indicate which refrigerant you need. It’s important to note that R-22 cannot be interchanged with R-410A, as they require different pressures to re-condense into liquid.
Will a home AC run without Freon?
Running an air conditioner without coolant is crucial as it is a critical part of the air conditioning system and prevents it from cooling properly. Without coolant, the compressor may run more frequently and the air coming out of the vents may not be cold. This can lead to costly repairs and increased wear and tear on the unit, resulting in a shorter lifespan and more frequent repairs. It is essential to ensure that the air conditioner is properly cooled and that the compressor is properly lubricated to prevent issues in the future.
Can I add my own Freon to my home AC?
To recharge your air conditioner, contact a professional heating and cooling technician, as only certified professionals can do so under EPA regulations. Do not attempt to recharge your air conditioner yourself, even if you have a recharging kit. Symptoms of needing an A/C recharge include:
- Unusual noises or vibrations
- Unusual temperature changes
- Unusual temperature fluctuations\n4
Why is Freon banned?
Freon, a mixture of carbon, hydrogen, fluorine, and chlorine, is damaging the ozone layer by breaking down in ultraviolet light, allowing harmful UV rays to reach Earth’s surface. In 1985, an ozone hole was discovered over Antarctica, which is believed to be disappearing with international efforts to phase out CFCs. Freon is a greenhouse gas with a 100-year Global Warming Potential (GWP) of almost 2, 000 times that of carbon dioxide (CO2). It is one of many refrigerants considered potent greenhouse gases, with R-404A being more than twice as potent.
Exposure to Freon gas can lead to refrigerant poisoning, which can cause eye/ear/throat irritation, headache, nausea, vomiting, cough, and dizziness. If Freon gets on skin in liquid form, it can cause frostbite and chemical burn.
How long does Freon last in a home AC?
Freon, a specific brand of refrigerant, represents a definitive solution for air conditioning units, as it is a closed/sealed system that effectively prevents refrigerant from escaping. However, low refrigerant levels can result in leakage, which ultimately leads to financial loss. R-22, a common refrigerant in older ACs, is costly due to its phase-out by the EPA. The addition of 7 lbs of Freon could cost up to $700.
Can I replace refrigerant myself?
The addition of Freon to an AC unit represents a complex undertaking that necessitates the careful handling of a dangerous chemical, a pressurized tank, and sophisticated equipment. Any missteps in this process have the potential to result in irreparable damage or injury. It is therefore recommended that the reader consult with a local HVAC professional.
How often should I refill the Freon in my home AC?
The majority of ACs are shipped with the precise quantity of refrigerant necessary for their operational lifespan, in contrast to automobiles, which are typically shipped with a full tank of fuel. The refrigerant, a chemical substance utilized for the absorption and release of heat, is contained within copper coils that traverse a loop from the indoor unit (evaporator) to the outdoor unit (condenser). In the event that all components are functioning as intended, it is unlikely that the AC will require additional refrigerant.
Can you put new Freon in an old AC unit?
Modern freon can be used in AC units, but it cannot be switched automatically from R22 due to its different chemicals and higher frequency. To convert your AC unit to handle R410A, you need to replace the compressor, condenser, evaporator, and likely the refrigerant tubing. However, the cost of replacing these parts will be higher than buying a newer unit designed for R410A. Modern freon has advantages such as absorbing more heat than R22, allowing the unit to operate at a lower temperature and potentially extending its lifespan. R410A also uses synthetic oil to maintain the compressor, which combines better with freon, resulting in more efficient and less strain on the compressor.
Can I do an AC recharge myself?
R-134a refrigerant may be restricted in some states, and charging procedures may vary depending on the can’s design. While recharging AC won’t fix all AC problems, investing $50 in a recharging AC kit can save about $100 in labor costs. You can find an R-134a A/C recharging kit at auto parts stores, such as the A/C Pro Recharge Kit product, which comes with a reusable gauge and quick-connect fitting. However, hybrid cars may have electric AC recharge compressors incompatible with the oils and seal conditioners used in retail recharging kits.
To avoid lethal electrical shocks, check the product’s label for compatibility with your hybrid vehicle and consult a professional if unsure. Be cautious when performing this project, as you will be working near hot and rapidly rotating parts and belts in your vehicle’s engine compartment. Wear appropriate clothing, eye protection, and follow all precautionary instructions on the refrigerant kit manual.
📹 How To Add Freon / Refrigerant To Your Air Conditioner
Refrigerant can be purchased here: abilityrefrigerants.com America’s #1 Choice For Quality, Affordable HVAC Equipment: …
My Central A/C stopped working and I called a Serviceman. He said the Unit is 30 years old and to get a new one. He didn’t even open the cover to do a diagnostic test. They quoted me $11k, plus a permit fee for $400. After perusal your articles, I inspected the Starting Capacitor and it had leaked fluid. I bought a new one for $9.86,installed it and now I’m freezing in my home. Words cannot describe the feeling when that Compressor kicked on and my Girlfriend called me a Genius. Thank you so much, for what you do in helping out us DIY’ers. My words of gratitude does not come close in appreciation.
I’ve had my EPA license since 1998 and haven’t worked in the field for a long time. I woke up to a frozen coil in my 410A system. This article is a great review before I dust off my gauges and get to work. I’m glad I came across this article it’s very practical without all the jargon and double talk used to baffle the customer and confuse into thinking adding refrigerant is brain surgery. The field has changed so much but basically it’s still the same. Thank you for making this article to help and not just to inflate your own ego by sprouting a lot of technical terms as many do.
Thanks for the great article. Our unit used R410 and I saw that this coolant is being faced out by 2025. Could I still buy a tank of R410 and use it until the end of the unit’s life or are we going to be forced to retrofit old units to use the newer coolants in the next couple of year? Is there a particular place you recommend to get the coolant tanks from? Thanks again and I will check out your other articles soon!
I decided to start working on my home AC after I got charged $350.00 dollars to install 1/2lb of R22 about 20 years ago. I said to myself, “Dude I’m Avionics Technician working on Fighter Aircraft Electronics and work on cars as a hobby. How hard can this BE!” I didn’t get my license but I watched a ton of article’s and have repaired a ton of cars with R134A since then, including complete rebuilds of car HVAC the systems to learn about AC Systems. I then purchased a HVAC maintenance manual and studied it. Then before I started working on the home AC I have a friend who used to own his own HVAC business and always consulted with him before I broke into the lines or did any maintenance with my diagnosis theory and plans/procedures of repairs. He always gave me a thumbs up and would also remind me of things to look out for and how to overcome problems if I ran into any. He was kind enough to purchase four 2lb bottles for me, of course I paid for them. With those bottles I kept my Goodman running since 1996 and it just went out last year in 2022, a 26 year run on that unit. So I put in another NOS R22 Goodman I’ve had sitting at the house since 2015 waiting for the other unit to go out after our home flooded in Katrina.
6/8/24; thank you so much for this article. Your explaining made it easy to really understand what to do. When you get a chance maybe you could one day put a article out on how to recharge a system that is completely out of gas. And telling what positions the manifold valve should be in, in the process. I am not an aspiring tech, but am not to clear on the understanding, of when these valves should be open or close. Thanks again. God bless you.
I am hooked. You are my new youtube guy for hvac. I am a certified mechanic and do auto a/c, so your easy to understand articles are making it a cinch crossover for me since I already have a a/c background and try to learn more about hvac everyday. My gauge set is even R-134a/ R-22 set so I can use them on my house condenser as I am preparing to do my first house hook up with them as I think my R-22 is low. Please make more of these hook up and read and add articles on house condensers. Subscribed and looking at buying hvac tools on your affiliate links as I type this.
wow ability(which has good prices) has 25lb of r410a for $400. I got same 25lb off amazon in 2019 for $118. Insanity is an HVAC tech will charge over $100/lb for R410a also 3 position service valves – operating position shuts off the port, another position opens the port, another position shuts off the discharge line (for doing pump down) when finished filling, turn service valve to shut off the port so you don’t have to rely on the schrader and cap to seal.
Great article, but I’m going to pick at a couple things as an HVAC tech. I know you said there are other factors into charging than what was already said, and I’m also glad you talked about the EPA 608 certification. @ 4:07, You purged the line of air from the refrigerant can, but did not purge with liquid at least on article. If this was R22, it would be fine because R22 is a zeotropic liquid (meaning one component) and you would be able to charge an R22 system with gas or liquid. R410A is an azeotropic refrigerant (meaning two or more components) and can only be charged with liquid (or a flasher nowadays). You must purge with liquid refrigerant (burp the line unit liquid ref comes out at the manifold while the can is upside down), otherwise you may unequally add the refrigerant. Probably would not hurt the system unless charged with a lot of gas instead of liquid, but it’s a bad practice. Companies charge a lot of money for the refrigerant because it costs a lot of money for us too. 25 lbs. Virgin R22 goes for $1800-2200 company cost, R410A about $300-600 for 25 pounds. Legit, licensed companies charge a lot because it takes a lot for us to know how to do it right plus business expenses. Thank your EPA and the Montreal Protocol for the giant money scheme! Yes they are 30 pound drums, subtract the tank weight and you get roughly 25.
Pressure gauges the same thing essentially exactly the same thing the only difference is that it’s your house that he’s the air conditioning I mean the last article you made was so complicated and so convoluted I had no clue what that you were trying to say this one is very simplified this is exactly how easy it is to do it it’s so funny how men just like to make things more complicated like I don’t want to have to hire a man to come out here and tell me that I need more things done to the air conditioner and then it needs to be done I know that the air conditioner works I’m saying there has to be a little bit of I must need to add some of this stuff into it because when it’s very hot outside it should still be cooling house down just as much it shouldn’t be a moment of well it’s it’s hot outside right so now I’m rather than me having the temperature say 73 like I put the temperature to 73 it should be 73 on the inside it should not be hard to to cool up the house with my central air conditioner I don’t understand so I’m assuming that it has to be refrigerant I have refrigerant from a car for a car to refill the car so why can’t I just use the same goddamn thing
R22 is the best refrigerant gas there is, as it has mineral oil in its composition that extends the useful life of the compressor and reduces by 30% the increase in temperature transfer to the condensers. That is, 2 freezers with R22 gas work cooler than with R404A gas, forcing the compressor less and reducing the electricity bill.
Thank you for putting this together it’s a great article. One item that seems to be really important for this is the leak detection. You mention it it kind of jumped over it, don’t know if you did a article on it. That is absolutely critical before you add new freon. Otherwise your viewers are throwing good money after bad. Looking forward to leak detection DIY tips Thanks again
I had to get my EPA for my job but I knew nothing about working on AC hvac, but it comes up new properties sometimes, and I found out I love troubleshooting systems, getting pretty good at it. then I ended up on an old property, and I had to get more knowledge. spent a ton on tools now i’m set up. and i look forward to ac/ heat calls
What is the purpose of the red hose (high side) connection in this example ? Do we even use that at all or is it just used to view the pressure? Can you skip connecting the high pressure red line completely if just adding refrigerant for a band aid and don’t need exacts ? The yellow hose should be able to push the refrigerant from the cylinder into the blue suction side correct ?
Excellent article…I’ve been EPA certified since they first required it…Yeah, I’m that old and still running service…Mostly word of mouth anymore, and for older people that have been lied to by the gougers selling units…They’re out there…Anyway, thanks for the article…Very common sense and well done.
My 5 ton split ac is 19 years old and seems to work just fine, cools well. Its never been tuned or whatever or charged/topped off. Its used only 3-4 weeks a year and is located on the north side of the house, no sun and little rain due to long 3 ft roof eaves. Should the refrigerant level be checked? Could it be low due to age and wear and tear?
MY HVAC company was ripping me off. OMG turns out about a 500-1000% markup on parts and labor. I fired them after I learned what things cost to buy. Well thank you I have a 609 cert so I understood a lot of what you are speaking about right away. The pressures and temperatures are different I saw right away and it was easy to look up online. I have watched many of your articles now. I installed a new defrost board, soft start, replaced the contactor switch and also the compactor. I have cleaned the evaporator and the condenser with juice off amazon. I had some issues with the air handler and board corrosion so I fixed a few wires, ran 3 new ground wires for the 24V side so my smart thermostat and defrosters board would work again. Now everything is working right again. I ordered my 410A. My subcooling, high side pressure and wb/ambient temps are finally where they should be. Summer is nice again for a change of 3 years. Winter should be warmer now that all the problems are fixed. The Army taught me many things, you taught me how to apply them to HVAC. Many, many thanks… (‾◡◝)(✿◡‿◡)(❁´◡`❁)^_~
Don’t forget to mention checking the superheat of the system. Simply take your suction line temperature, after the system is running for 15 minutes, and subtract your guage temperature and that will give you your superheat on an acurator metering device. A superheat of 12 is usually good on a a\\c system. Overcharging the system will damage the compressor by slugging it with refrigerant.
I got worked for like $600 just to put a little R-22 in my system which was working but he said it needed it. He didn’t weigh the refrigerant he added and just eyeballed it and sent the bill. Never said what it would cost until he sent the bill. I almost lost it. Whole process took him under 10 minutes and the cooling felt just the same as it did before he topped it off. That was when I decided to buy a fat tank of R-22 and a gauge set just incase it ever needs topped again. I also ran through some of that sealant stuff just incase there was a leak since he never checked for leaks.
I’m an hvacr student who is about to close his first year in six months. These next coming up months are going to be spent in a lab. Anyways your article is nicely made. I got my epa in class and i have been asked to install refrigerant by a student and even though I was taking the classes I knew not even where to begin In doing anything. Now with your help it’s a win-win. Like and commented. Thank you
A good starter article. The challenge in a DYI situation might be being able to find a leak. If it is locating in the evaporator coil, (inside the home) it might be difficult to find. Using a high quality filter with a high rating will keep your evaporator coil and air ducts clean. Also, there might be a need to empty the system of a complete charge and and replace the compressor oil which probably would require a professional or more experience. Thanks for the information.
As someone who considers themselves a pretty advanced in DIY learning that I could get the license for $300 and be 100% legal is amazing! I was quoted $8000 to replace an AC unit last week. When I looked up how much it actually cost for the unit they were going to install it was under $3000. Why should I pay them $8000 when I could pay for the license, tools, and unit myself for around $3500? Plus I’ll have the tools and license to use into the future
FYI if you have a TXV you need to charge by Subcooling and check by superheat. The TXVs job is to maintain a fixed superheat. Also before you even begin to add refrigerant you need to let the system run for 20 mins minimum also after adding you have to let the system run. For pistons you need to explain how to come up with the superheat value. Please if you’re trying to show people how to do it yourself these little details are very important. If they aren’t doing it correctly the repairs to have someone come out and fix it could be just as much or even more than “just topping off”.
Our fridge was low on R134a just went to the local auto parts store and picked a bottle off the shelf, along with a Supco line tap. This was 4 years ago, and the fridge is running strong to this day. I’m in Canada, so maybe our rules are different? The stuff is available right off the shelf, next to the WD-40.
410 A is a blend refrigerant. You failed to mention that with refrigerant leaks on 410A you should remove and replace the refrigerant. The refrigerant blend separates when idle and the blend will be altered. R22 has been outlawed, no longer made. 410A is also being taken off the market. EPA regulations require low loss fittings. Lastly the EPA refrigerant certificate does not cover all refrigerant. The current trend is going to propane based blends, not a fan of them. Sooner or later there will be a large leak near a source of ignition.
Dude. Thank you! I am a 57 yr old, retired computer engineer that fixes everything in a house. Everything. Or real close. However, having refridgerants and HVAC parts on lock-down where normal citizens cannot have them is very wrong . That has allowed runaway pricing on new installs – and even compressor repairs. I am getting that Refridge license! Thank you for the info, and I must say that your articles are fantastic! At 57, I am not going to do 5 yrs apprenticeship to be able to buy and do everything. I’m not opening a business. I just have two properties and 4 HVAC and a mini to maintain. I cannot afford to pay $12K to replace each one. That is insane. Your articles have helped me maintain and repair reasonably good systems well beyond the point that I would have had to shell out $10k+ per unit. ($3500 for a mini).
Am I understanding this correctly. You “need” a $300 EPA class to order the refrigerant (legally) but don’t have to furnish any information, simply acknowledge that you have said license? Like, the honor system? If so, I definitely have that license… somewhere, though I may have taken the class under an alias!
Pretty insane the last time I checked ability refrigerants for R410a it was $425/30 lb bottle and recently I was quoted $139.50/lb to charge R410a. The company installed a brand new 5 ton ac/heat pump for me July 2022 and about two weeks ago the 40amp breaker tripped in my main panel. Put my multimeter on and I see continuity from a hot wire to ground. Called the company that installed it and they ohm’ed the compressor and they said the numbers look good and the compressor isn’t shorted to ground. But they said the compressor needs to be replaced. After 14 months?!? It’s a Sure Comfort by Rheem system. Typical black compressor. My previous TRANE System lasted 22 years!!! Not sure I believe them and of course the labor warranty is past by 2 months. Only a 1 year labor warranty. $1485 for labor and $1814 for 13 lbs of refrigerant. Which they said they’d pick up cos they kinda feel bad but still there’s the $1485 labor cost 😣
Tbh from the sound of it its more expensive to diy than it is to call the ac man put for a system checkup in MY AREA. i don’t know what everyone else is charging bit it must be a bunch where you can save money buying 100 dollars of 410, 2-300 dollars worth of gauges and at minimum 65 bucks for the epa test.
Systems should NEVER be charged by pressure or evap temps alone. Somebody out there without the knowledge is going to make matters worse when they have a low reading low pressure and a high reading high pressure and just dump gas in it because Mr. You told them to charge it by temperature based on low side pressure. Now they’re overcharged, over working their compressor and having more problems than before because they weren’t familiar with proper pressure readings and assessments.
Before just jumping in to do this, please research the repercussions of doing this without and EPA 608 license, the regulations and fines are online for you to see. The EPA can fine up to $37,500 per day for violations of its regulations under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act. This includes adding refrigerant to an AC system without an EPA license. Other penalties for violating the Clean Air Act include: Criminal prosecution in US Federal Court, Confiscation of violating substances, and Loss of certification to handle refrigerants. If you don’t have a license, please don’t do it
I couldn’t help but notice the larger sizes were FAR cheaper per lb. For comparison, latest price quoted to me on 410A was $150/lb. SOME markup can be expected due to various costs like travel, insurance, salaries, profit, etc, but for your example, that bottle is $55/lb, or a 3x savings to start, but a 5lb is only $180 or about $36/lb. Go up to a 25 lb and you get it for $15/lb! For that kind of savings, perhaps a larger bottle makes more sense, since it can easily be stored, perhaps in your garage or a shed. That leak detector is a good idea for two reasons, if your stored gas leaks, you have a warning tool, and if the A/C is leaking, it helps you find it.
The piston version control you showed is called an expansion valve. I haven’t done a/c in a very long time, but I did take a test when they started to restrict R-12. You stated once you have the license it’s good forever, I guess I will have to check that out. But for sure it the refrigerant is low something is seeping.
This is actually really scary your training people to charge their systems based on pressure alone? This is not how systems are charged. How did you get your license? The gauge shows saturation temperature at specific pressures, but you need to use additional thermometers to measure the temperatures of the liquid or vapor lines and do the math to figure out the super cooling in order to properly charge a system. This article is completely inaccurate and will do damage to peoples condensers! 410 Systems sub cooling can range between 10 and 18 degrees depending on the manufacturer. Please study your book better and remake the article in order to explain it properly.
Bruh I can’t THANK YOU ENOUGH for this article. I just had someone to refill the refrigerant. All I can say it was a highway robbery!!! they charged $180 per pound. Total damage around $495 for 2.75 lbs freon. I watched him all the way. I really wish I watched this article before that. They tricked me. They scammed me. How this guy was refilling the refrigerant, it was all fake 😞. Great job with step by step instructions on how to refill refrigerant.
Gracias for sharing your knowledge about hvac I’m going to have to watch the article several times I need to start understanding a bit more about it cause to me it sounds so exciting to know all the process involved in do the things right I always have the tendency to understand things and do it right That’s how I learned when I worked with electricians licensed of course, and when I was working in remodeling trade I knew what stuff I was able to do in my own and when I need it a permit I just asked one of my friends a master electrician to help me with the permits for completing the job…Gracias for sharing this article, to me was very educational and almost sounded like I was in a class so I had my ears open 😝 lol Imagine if you start making questions or asking are you paying attention ha ha 😂😂😂 with all this technology going on soon you going to have your own face time classes on real time, I apologize for extended me with my dumb comments I will keep supporting your website perusal the articles to the end give like and sharing and comment so you tube reccomends your website to more subscribers…You have a great day now sir…be safe It’s a hot summer to be crawling in those attics Saludos!!!👋😃👋
You should not be in anyway trying this unless you wish to actually work in the trades. If your system has a leak you Fn fix it. Not just keep charging it. They are sealed systems. Leaks need to be fixed. Most leaks are inside the coils. No one should be charging systems or doing brazing repairs unless it’s their trade. Flammable refrigerant is coming. Only a idiot would try to teach home owners how to charge their system. Super dumb. Change a capacitor or motor sure. Plus you have to purge all hoses not just the two. This is a good article but homeowners should in no way be trying this.
On a 410a system, is the low side the only pressure that really matters? The reason I ask is I have a Fujitsu Halcyon 9000BTU mini-split unit that has never really cooled adequately (It’s cooling my ‘server room’ that used to have a noisy 8000 BTU window unit that would practically have snow flying), as if I set it to 65, the lowest temp I could keep the room was around 75. But recently, it started ‘shutting down’ when the outside temp dropped below 65 degrees or so – I’d have to turn it off and turn it back on after it warmed up a bit. I do believe there is a leak, as there is oil residue around the valves, but I’m not sure if it’s a flare or one of the valves. When I took the covers off to close the valves and draw the refrigerant into the compressor, I got a ‘pssst’ of a small amount of pressure escaping. But this unit only has a single test port, which is the low side when cooling, and when running, it would stabilize at about 120PSI (which on my gauge equates to 40*), and when turned off and allowed to stabilize to ambient temp, it settled in at about 192psi at 80* ambient temp. Is the only way to add to this kind of system to evacuate and re-charge by weight?
So i hooked up the gauge but wasn’t getting anything, the needle didn’t move not a bit, added the freon, and i got it to a reasonable amount, however i see no sweating on the pipes and the vents still blow warm air.. anything else i could do before i can officially declare it dead? This is a Goodman forced air system, which it was installed about 10 or so years ago.
I’ve watched a couple of your articles and first, thank you! My system took a little more than 2lbs to get it where I have it. it’s about 88 degrees out. I have the coolant temp at 40 degrees which is about 68psi. Should go a little bit higher maybe? The Tstat is showing 76 degrees at the intake and 60 degrees out of the vents so a 16 degree difference. That seems good. The only thing I’m questioning is that the low side at the compressor is not “beer can cold”. It’s not cold at all and on this very humid day not showing any condensation. Also, the first go around I did burp the lines but needed to get more r22 but forgot to burp the low and high. Did burp the r22 line. How bad is it that some air got in?
I have a GE 24k btu window unit.. My inside coil started freezing up.. so I would turn it off and let the fan ran, to thaw the ice.. and by the next day, it stopped freezing over, but not it’s not getting nearly as cold as it could before.. Does this mean that all my refrigerant has likely leaked out? Why would it stop freezing if it’s low?? and now have low performance? My plan is to put a piercing valve on the low side (the big line) and check the pressures and just top off as needed.. Can I still check for leaks if it has fully leaked out the freon? Or will it still bubble if it’s empty?? Any help is appreciated, thanks
I quit working on a/c systems when other technician’s were putting r410a into r22 systems mixing refrigerants . I caught one and asked him why are you putting 410a into a r22 system? he replied, ahhh lol i’m just topping it off it was a little low. I told him buy doing that you are decreasing the efficiency of that unit by 2 degrees and in addition to that your not suppose to mix refrigerants . no reply and remained silent. I went on about my way.
I have a question if you don’t mind answering. I have a Rheem Classic a/c and there’s an issue where the temperature goes up within a few degrees in 4 hours and a problem message shows up on the Ecobee thermostat….There may be a problem with the cooling system. For the past 4 hours, the thermostat has been calling for cool, but the room temperature has increased by 3.5 ffahrenheit. It displays the wrong date January 31st on that day in July. The next day the same message with February 31st at the top of the message. After turning the thermostat on/off the message cleared and the temperature was back to the set temperature in 3 or hours. The larger line is cold, so could it be a thermostat problem or the line is frozen? ?
I have had really bad luck with AC units. I replaced 3 in a mobile home I had the just under 15 years and it went out for the 4th time about a year before I left. I ended up having to put a $500 window unit in the living room and we all learned to sleep on the couch and in recliners until I sold it. I have a house now, 3 years in (last year) the AC went out. We had choice home warranty (do not use them, they are a scam big time. I had to call them 2-3 times and pay a fee for them to come out each time to fix the same thing that was never fixed in the first place. They were to replace the washer since it couldn’t be fixed. A washer cost $600, their ad says they will fix it or replace it with a new one. Yet they would only give us $300 for a new washer. They say that they don’t give retail because they can get it cheaper. But they aren’t the ones buying it I was and I have to pay retail. If they were the ones buying it then I don’t care what they pay. But they only send the money. And it took them 4 months to use the check for $300, half of the cost of New one. And they sent an AC repair tech out for the AC and he said it was due to a dirty coil. Choice doesn’t cover that saying a dirty coil is due to neglect. So the Repair tech said he would clean out for $1500. I called another company on my own dime and it had nothing to do with the coil. The capacitor on the inside unit had gone out. It was evident due to the blower spinning backwards. The original tech was trying to get us to pay for him to remove and clean the coil because it paid so much.
I have been doing this on my own stuff for years, do I need a license to do this as a business, or would a handyman license do? Maybe I should go into business myself and keep some scammers at bay, in the small town I am located in, the work from every contractor (not just HVAC) is horrible, half a@@ed and a rip off. Another question on price, if you call a HVAC company to add a charge to a system how much do they charge the customer, they charge R22 $150/lb (when it is $45) as I write this and a service call of what another $120 on top of that, is that a the going price these days? Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks
I live in California and this buttholes here in Central Valley just want to hose all poor people who barely have enough money to get by . This was very informative I already had my r22 10 lbs system calls for max 8.5 lbs .im going to study the shit out of this process without paying tech who tried find more problems and up sell you a new system I don’t have money for . Bunch of little thieves, don’t use a handgun 😳😳😳😳
6:51 6:51 6:51 6:53 this is precisely the same procedure as putting the refrigerant in my car’s air conditioning no problem to it it’s not difficult okay it’s not that hard you should not have to take a class to get your hands on some refrigerant that is insane is that a new law I mean I got a bottle a billion bottles of air conditioning fluid working with air conditioner wasn’t working and all that s*** so I got a bunch of them I got a bunch of refrigerant sitting here in front of me and you’re telling me I have to use a specific refrigerant why they are exactly the same
3 years in a row I had lost pressure and had an HVAC tech check for leaks. he had the leak detector out and couldnt find any leaks. he evacuated the system, slit the inside and outside line, presurized it with nitrogen and left it for about 4 days. came back and not pressure drop inside or outside. refilled with new R410A. still lost pressure by the following summer. Now my guess is there is a cold leak. leakage that only happens durring the winter when the outside unit gets cold. I am up in Canada BTW. I asked him about possible cold leak and hes never heard of that before. It can happen on a cooling system in a car on the rad hoses. Anyone have any ideas or experience with this happening?
Thought 410a is a blend and could not be topped off if low . Blends leak at different rates so topping it off you throw off the blend . All refrigerant would need to be extracted and a new charge of 410a be installed. This is if leak has been found . Blends may have several types of refrigerant to make up the 410a blend . Each of them boil off at different temps and pressure so topping off with fresh to existing charge the blend will be off . R22 is different and can be topped off if low since it’s not a blend .
I could tell you really, REALLY know your stuff, partially by how much you didn’t explain. It’s obviously second nature for you… “low side”, “high side”, etc. Then again, by the time someone has completed the classes necessary to get an EPA license, all of that is probably understood. Good job overall.
I see on the Freon list there is still R11 available. I thought that refrigerant was going to be phased out along with R22 & R12. So is R11 still used in Centravac’s? Yeah I used to work on them back in my day but I thought by now they would be mostly phased out and switched over to the new refrigerants. Because of all the Freon vented into the world it would seem to me that R11 would be the worst as these HVAC systems vent constantly all the systems for contaminants and of course the Freon goes out with the contaminants.
This is a joke. You mean to tell me a diy homeowner is going to fix a leak? You know good and well a homeowner that has 0 HVAC experience isn’t going to fix a leak. Your next article needs to be a brazing class. Don’t forget to tell them to purge with nitrogen. Oh wait first you need to make a reclaim article or you can show them how to use their “recovery rag” You’re causing more harm than good. But it’s for the all mighty dollar so why the f not right?
I checked that website and they charge $30/lb for R22 and they have it in 2lb up to 30 lb tanks as well as by the pallet load ! Shipping is included with the sales price. I believe 410a is about $25/lb. What a difference compared to what those HVAC trucks sell it for ! I have heard R22 is about $100 to $150 per pound from their truck. So a full evac and recharge of R22 refrigerant would be around $300 vs. $900+ in just the gas from the HVAC guy plus his labor.
I know this is a odd question, but I just bought a 220 window air conditioner last year and this year its throwing a code already and shutting off. So I added a shreader valve and when I do get my R32 do I need to weight it and add it to what the side says or can I just do this procedure like your doing getting it up to around 40 on gauge? Or is it better to measure what I’m putting in? They are about $800 and only one I can use here. I have thrown last 2 away and tired of it just because it needs a recharge or whole flush and add. Thanks for this article by the way!
A neighbor is HVAC contractor and has two HVAC systems in his single story home. Says they set the thermostat to 70 degrees in summer and enjoy the fruits of his labor etc. Our electricity is 43 cents per kWh so 2,500 kWh of power per month would run $1,075 just for 30 days of A/C. I’d say he is getting paid rather well.
how much freon do my ac unit need to add good man 5 tons 16 seer . i been watch a lot of your article i give you a tumb up i will buy the scale incase i need to used it i;m learning in my house i the one fix stuff i’m singer mom, only problem i had is migraine headches the more i look on screen the migraine attack me. its suck 3o years i deal with migraine. i live in florida its hot all year round ac run all year. my name is judy i don;t know your name lol i don’t want call you The DIY HVAC Guy.
This is a great article that gives a person a good idea about what it takes to charge your AC. I recommend perusal it before you have your qualified AC tech out. My Tech has an App on his Tablet that gives him tons of data specifically about my system. Including temperature/airflow probes so he can balance the system. If you are low on freon you do have a leak. I DIYed my new Central AC system 3 years ago. And had my AC Tech finish off the last 2 hours of the install and startup.
I did a nine month advanced course. I am a electro mechanical and computer tech of 20 years. Hvac was easy for me. However, I say this. If you pick things up easily, go ahead and pass the test on your own but the school kids are ahead of you with references and experienced teachers. My personal list has three retiring Master service technician with over a century of combined experience.
I tell you something you don’t know. R410A is a mixed R125 and R32 refrigerant. You should never burp R410A because it alters the composition of the refrigerant. The purging method doesn’t completely remove air/moisture on the manifold. Connect the vacuum pump on the unused side of the manifold to completely remove moisture.. When the R410A system leaks the remaining refrigerant in the system must be recovered and disposed.
If I have. Over 20 year old 12 Seer Ruud HEATPUMP what is the refrigerant . And is a hand on the cold line “cold as a beer can” a good indication 10:15 that the levels are KO ? Second if this last winter the compressor coils put ice on the outside of the unit what is that a indication of ? Dirty coils ? It was abnormally cold here in south Tx ….down 12 degrees. Thanks 🙏🏻
Love your website ❤️ I was able to replace my old r22 goodman AC unit from my hvac for a newer heat pump. All I did myself was by following your articles. I took some pictures, and if you want to see them, let me know. It was a slow project. I am pretty sure I made lots of mistakes, but it is running now. My family is thankful 😅
To have changed the R22 on the Rhem Heat Pump 11 years old with three replaced compressors over 11years end with a leak that empty the system completly of R22 would have cost me $1100 for 6 pound of R22 so we decided to get a new Heat Pump Trane setup + a Trane Coil instead with R410A. will be setup next week we run the furnace now.
Excellent, appreciate the info. MY Trane is having issues, it works well on the small compressor but when it jumps to the large compressor, it stop cooling, specifically in Phoenix 114 weather. I think it’s low refrigerant, but will clean the coils and the unit in the attic before I try adding freon. This unit has 3 set of filters in line (main updraft, then a fiber glass cleaner at the electrostatic panel, all the electrostatic panels and then another fabric filter – lot of cleaning). Thanks for the insights.
I am another guy who spent money on the tools although I have cheaper tools. They still work. I diagnosed 2 leaks one on a friends unit he installed, and one on mine last summer and fixed them and recharged the systems. I have 5 systems of my own between my shop and 2 houses both with suites. It makes sense to know how to fix your own systems. HVAC guys in my area charge WAY too much money and are booked a long ways out! Like anything there is no harm in knowing how to fix something properly yourself.
Short & simple but informative. Good article. We fell on hard financial times after our father passed away from mesothelioma. We have a slow compressor leak & needs recharging every month. We would be paying hundreds for a tech every month because we just don’t have enough money for a new unit right now. We were even using multiple window units borrowed from friends until they started to die. This article was very helpful. Thanks.
To all those that complain. You have forgotten one thing. I bought the appliance! I am a homeowner, and I am a subscriber for one reason to learn about my appliance that I bought. I have been recently scammed by a big company in my area, and he filmed it for me and gave me a copy. That how arrogant he was, thinking all homeowners are to dumb to know how an air-conditioner works. Luckily I didn’t fall for it. and it took websites like this one to figure it out. I have a right to know how my appliance works. I know the parts and how it works, and that makes be an informed consumer. I will not get scammed again. I can at the very least change out a fan motor, and a capacitor, and learn to understand how to use a multimeter.
Thanks for the article. While I personally would probably hire out this job, it’s good to have some understanding of what the job entails. Unfortunately it seems that some hvac techs, like the ones leaving negative comments, are threatened by the possibility that consumers might realize that it isn’t rocket science.
You shouldn’t shut it off to remove the hoses. If you use ball valve hoses. Open both knobs at the manifold until it equalizes then shut off the high side on the ball valve. That will pull all of the liquid out of your hose and suck it back into the system. Then shut your manifold knobs…..you lose a lot less refrigerant this way.
Thanks for a great article.Outdoor unit fan is running, changed the capacitors, initially compressor pipe got cold for a few mins and then nothing(no condensation and not any more cold) – not sure if compressor is running? But AC is not blowing cold(3-4 years old) and evap coils are not frozen either. Thermostat is sending voltage, contactor is working well, condensation drain switch is not tripped. What else could it be, low refrigerant?
Dear, thanks for this website, I have such a problem – in the morning it was hot – 27 degrees Celsius and the air conditioner inside the house, when turned on, cooled the air to 20 degrees Celsius at the outlet of the duct, and in the evening I measured the temperature of the pipe at the inlet of the air conditioner and one pipe 24 degrees Celsius at the inlet and the pipe at the outlet the air conditioner was 9 degrees Celsius and froze, and at the same time it was 22 degrees Celsius at the outlet of the duct and 24 degrees Celsius outside. In other words, the air conditioner no longer cools as efficiently after 12 hours of operation – what’s the problem here?
Thanks do much for this article. I have older imperial 4 port manifold with low loss fittings on red, yellow, blue lines. (No ball valve shut-offs on lines). When red and yellow are disconnected after recharge, can I open still attached blue and suck the left over refrig in lines into unit? Obviously I don’t want to suck in air. Thanks do much. My low loss fittings are yellow jacket.
My father was a HVAC big guy in our area. He had a underpowered furnace, and it always blew other hvac guys minds how low the bill was for heat and that it actually worked to heat the entire house without running constantly. The AC we had was 15 or so years old before he changed it for a more efficient one. Always maintained it. I learned some good four letter words at a young age being around the shop guys.
One more key takeaway with the low loss fittings is the refrigerant is still held back into the hoses. You can use the refrigerant from the high side hose when it is disconnected from the system to pump back into the low side as it’s still in liquid form. This way you don’t have liquid spraying out your hoses when you bleed them for the next job.
Thanks for the article sir, this is going to save my family a ton and we’re extremely tight on cash now. Quick question: I’ve got an extremely slow leak, over the 12 years in my house I hadn’t really started noticing it being slightly less cool until last year. It’s a ’98 r-22 system, so it’s getting up there and to my knowledge hadn’t been charged before. I was looking at the AC Leak Freeze Pro Nano w/Magic Frost leak sealant. Not sure if it’s even needed, but since I’m adding r-22 I wondered if I should go ahead and try the stuff too. Thoughts?
Love your articles, keep them coming. I have a Goodman Model GSH130361CD and just did the condenser clean as you suggested and yes the cap on that went bad and it cost me $300.00. Wished I had seen your article before but thanks to you I know some things I can do myself. So again you are fantastic for sharing your knowledge👍 take care. Spokane WA
Idk about other places but here in the midwest in states like indiana or Illinois between federal regulations and state regulations specialty tools needed change about every 10 to 15 yrs. So if a homeowner goes the ” buy once cry once” route they will probably be wasting money. Lets be honest how many times is a homeowner going to service their own system? Once or twice in the entire life of the system? Unless they have a leaky system which means somethings deff needs replaced. Ok they get their epa card? They will still prolly be paying more for their system when it needs replaced because equipment dealers provide special pricing for hvac companies that frequently purchase equipment and matierial from that particular supplier. Im all for people relying on themselves but seriously all of us hvac guys know plenty other licensed hvac contractors that are straight hacks. Now imagine your average homeowner. Example. You can buy all the specialty mechanics tools you want, still doesnt make you a mechanic. Experience deff has a large role to play which is why its good to at least have articles like this around to help regular people. Just know your limits
Thank you!!! I’ve been adding 3-4 lbs of r22 in my unit for the past 5 years, and this method has kept my unit running cold every summer. I wish I found your article years ago, but it’s great to see articles like this encouraging us home owners to save money when these ‘pros’ try to sell us a new unit every time they come out 🙏
I wanted to thank you for all your great articles on hvac. You have saved me several hundred dollars already in service calls. Based on your recommendation, I got my EPA 608 certificate and have bought refrigerant from ability refrigerant. I’ve spent quite a bit on equipment but expect to get it back long term. Thanks again mike
Before you do this make sure of a few things first. First make sure it’s not a super hot day, every system has a maximum operating temperature and once crossed it’s working hard, so wait for the ambient to drop before testing. And make sure both coils are clean and air is moving. Look at indoor blower, you can actually have dirt built up on the squirrel cage that reduces air flow. So now that its clean and free flowing go outside and hold the suction line and have some one turn it on. As it gathers speed a temperature change should happen that you can feel, it’s called a flash point. You will know when this flash point happens, trust me you will feel it, IF it’s there in your system is just right!
Just a nitpick, you almost mentioned it but i feel like a homeowner trying diy could mess this up, considering techs and apprentices do often.. before doing any of this you have to be sure your 100% clear of ice, and either remove or change the filter.. the line freezes but if you turn it off, ice could remain on the inside coil for a long time. If you have a chunk of ice left from a dirty filter, youll overcharge your unit. You might get the right super heat, but the pressures will be whack, or youll get the pressures right and the superheat will be 0-2. If your diy, itd be smart to replace your filter, turn your ac off at the tstat and run fan 6-12 hours to be very sure. And if after that you see either a superheat below 5 or if your pressure and superheat never settle, like every time you check if the psi and sh are a bit lower than before and they dont stay stable, id call someone more familiar.
Tech just tried to charge $150 a pound for R410A after a $125 service call fee. That’s a 900% markup on the freon which led me here. Luckily I found a Vietnamese guy the next day who charged $65 a pound and no service call fee. Always do your research ladies and gents, don’t let people take advantage of you.
I found it useful. I do automotive ac. But Finding a reputable company to seevice my home has been a nightmare. The last company contacted told me they could schedule a sales consultation and service call. When i turned down the sales consultation, they cancelled the service. Another one came out and said my system was too old, even though it is clean and working, so they wouldn’t check it. They did offer a discount on a nice new system.
recharging my AC wasn’t a rabbit hole I wanted to go down but I am sick and tired of being stood up by HVAC techs! Not even a courtesy call stating they got held up on another job, traffic is tied up, NOTHING! The few hundred I would have been giving them I’ll just invest in my own tools… like I did for PEX A and PEX B and for copper brazing and soldering. If I buy from your link do you get commission or credit?
Should always disconnect and clear your liquid and charging hose through the suction line first, then remove the suction line. Between the charging and liquid line hoses you can potentially walk away with 4 ounces of refrigerant that the customer has paid for, of course this depends on the length of your hoses.
while this article shows how to recover refrigerant, I guess key information missing was how to add and where to get R22 from in case you want to DIY it. Any leads on that? I have a leak in my system which is causing refrigerant leak and require refill every couple years. Any DIY trick to do the repair like Fix-A-Flat?
What the point? The EPA makes it illegall to buy refrigerant unless you have an HVAC license. Yet I see some of these pros in florida releasing it ito the air because they dont have a recovery unit and they mix refrigerants which is also an EPA no no. I have HVAC training but no licence and airconditioning wholesalers will talk to me about anything but wont say a word about refrigerants. Big scam supported by the govt. Good article though…
we called for service since one zone wasn’t getting cold. freon was low. it was the old refrigerant(2008 system lennox), instead of charging it, the tech said it needs to be replaced(7k) since the old refrigerant is now more expensive and will just leak out again. we opted to wait on it since fall arrived but now the furnace on that zone is not working and the power board is now dead. another company said the combo unit needs replacing(14k) since it is 15 y/o anyway. couldn’t they just recharge the freon and replace the powerboard?
Your suction side pressure doesn’t have anything to do with the outdoor temperature on any given day, it’s an indication of the indoor coil temperature and airflow. Your charge could be correct but if your indoor airflow is higher than it should be, your suction line isn’t going to be “beer can cold”. If you’re going to be charging without superheat/subcooling you’re better off going by your indoor delta
Well I hate disappointe your viewer’s but I have done this since 1985 and anybody that can read can get an EPA card . When they see how much R22 cost for a 30 lb cylinder and that is if they can buy it to begin with they will change their mind about do it your self . I would like to warn your viewer’s that this is a dangerous trade . They do not know what they are working with here . I’ve seen blown off finger tips, schrader valves in someone’s eye . The company I work for had a Tech . die from electrocution working on residential equipment . The viewer’s should know these are all possibilities that any of these can happen to them faster than they can think about it . Let them watch some arc flash article’s . Somebody has to be in all of these OSHA training article’s . And these people do it for a living and still get hurt . Im all for saving money but I caution all who read this be aware of the dangers with this trade . One more note about recovery cylinders I’ve seen more contaminates come out of them than I care .
The first time I put r22 in my ac I just added until the pressures matched what the sticker on the machine said it should read…it’s the beat it’s ever ran….its still got a leak on the line somewhere so yeah…and I don’t want to put dirty Freon into it that idk for sure if it’s all r22 or mixed and eBay hasn’t many sellers from Mexico on there anymore…I’d found 2.2 lbs for $100 on eBay of new r22…supposedly u have to have a license to buy Freon…u don’t lol…so lane