To fix an AC Freon leak, gather necessary tools and materials, such as an electronic leak detector or ultraviolet dye. The rubber seals on the valve stems of AC units tend to wear out over time, causing leaks. Outdoor components may accumulate rust and endure wear and tear.
A professional HVAC technician would take general steps to repair a freon leak in a central AC system: locate the leak using a refrigerant leak detector or UV dye. If you suspect an air conditioner refrigerant leak at your home, take action to address the problem.
A bubble test is the fastest and easiest method for finding Freon leaks but is more effective on larger leaks. The best way to fix a freon leak is to replace the leaky part altogether. Freon leaks are most commonly found in the evaporator.
For small leaks, the technician may use epoxy or solder to seal the leak, but the damaged area may need to be cleaned and prepared before applying the sealant. Patch the cracked coil with a patch designed to hold up to the refrigerant liquid and reduce leakage. If the leak is small, you can try to repair it yourself using a sealant or tape. If the leak is larger, you’ll need to call a professional for repair.
A leak seal is a good option if you’re just looking for something to get you by until you can replace the air conditioner with a new one.
📹 How to find a refrigerant leak in an air conditioner?
If you’re an HVAC technician looking to find a refrigerant leak in an air conditioner, this video is for you! Learn the best techniques …
How do I find a Freon leak in my central air conditioner?
To detect a refrigerant leak in your home air conditioning unit, follow these steps:
- Visually inspect the evaporator coils or refrigerant lines for ice.
- Listen for hissing or bubbling sounds.
- Use an electronic detector designed to detect leaking refrigerant.
A Freon leak in your AC unit can lead to subpar cooling performance, higher energy bills, and potential damage. Exposure to high concentrations of Freon can cause headaches, dizziness, and irregular heartbeats.
Over time, AC units may develop leaks due to factors like defects, corrosion, or wear and tear. As refrigerant escapes, the system must work harder for longer periods, resulting in higher energy bills. Understanding these signs and methods is crucial for maintaining the efficiency and longevity of your AC unit.
Can an AC Freon leak be repaired?
Air conditioners use refrigerants, also known as working fluid or freon, to cool the air. However, the chemical R22 Freon has been phased out by the EPA over the past decade. Freon and other refrigerant chemicals are crucial for the unit’s functionality, so if a freon leak occurs, it can cause issues. However, if caught early, the lost freon can be replaced. Freon is a non-combustible chemical compound that can exist in both liquid and gaseous forms.
It is considered the lifeblood of any air conditioner unit, and if the refrigerant stops flowing, the entire system ceases to function. The rapid condensation and evaporation of freon create a cooling effect on the air inside the unit, which is then blown out into the ducts or room itself by a blower fan.
Can you seal a Freon leak in an air conditioner?
To fix an AC leak, turn off the unit and unplug it from the power source. If the leak is small, you can repair it yourself with sealant or tape. If it’s larger, call a professional for repairs. Once repaired, have the AC unit serviced. If you suspect your AC system is leaking freon, it can often go unnoticed until you notice it stops working. This guide explains the signs of a leak and provides steps to prevent it and restore your system to proper working order.
Do refrigerant leak sealers work?
HVAC leak sealers are a quick temporary solution for small leaks, but they should be used with a compatible HVAC system. Avoid grain-based sealers, unless you have unpressurized lines, as they can cause harm. Chemical-based products offer superior results. Research on products before purchasing and use them in your home. Larger leaks require immediate professional service, while tiny leaks will eventually require service.
How much does it cost to fix a Freon leak in an air conditioner?
The cost of repairing an AC leak varies depending on the type of leak, with Freon or refrigerant leaks costing between $250 and $1, 550 on average, while water leaks cost between $125 and $325. Freon repairs are more expensive due to the EPA’s phase-out of Freon, and the cost of new parts and refrigerant recharge can quickly add up. If you have an older AC unit, upgrading to a newer model might be more economical.
The type of AC leak test also plays a significant role in the cost. Bubble tests and dye detection tests are cost-friendly, while electronic and ultrasonic tests are more expensive due to their quicker and more accurate results.
Can I buy Freon for my home AC?
The EPA has established a sales restriction under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act, limiting the purchase of ozone-depleting substances (ODS) or non-ODS substitutes used as refrigerants. Only EPA-certified technicians can purchase refrigerants, with limited exceptions. The restriction covers refrigerants in cylinders, cans, or drums, except for small cans of substitute refrigerants. It does not cover refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment or components containing refrigerants. The sales restriction does not apply to refrigeration and air-conditioning equipment or components containing refrigerants.
What to do after a Freon leak?
If you suspect a Freon leak, it’s crucial to address it immediately. Turn off your HVAC system, ventilate the area, and wait for a technician to inspect and repair the unit. Do not attempt to address the issue alone unless you have experience and are certified to handle refrigerants. Schedule annual maintenance to prevent future leaks. If you need help, contact George Brazil Heating and Cooling at 842-0009 to schedule an appointment for service.
They can diagnose your HVAC problems, locate the Freon leak, and provide recommendations for fixing the issue. With over 2, 000 5-star reviews, they are Phoenix’s most trusted HVAC company. Justin Stevens, a 17-year veteran, is the Director of Field Operations and oversees all of George Brazil’s field departments.
Is it worth fixing a leak in an AC unit?
The cost of fixing an AC leak depends on several factors, including the cost of repair, the age of the unit, the severity of the leak, and the refrigerant level. If the repair cost is significantly more than the cost of a new unit, it may be more cost-effective to replace the unit rather than repair it. If the unit is relatively new, it may be worth repairing the leak as long as the repair cost is not significantly more than the cost of a new unit.
If the leak is small and easily repaired, it may be worth fixing, but replacing the unit may be more cost-effective if it is large or multiple. The refrigerant level is also crucial for the unit’s efficiency. If the refrigerant level drops significantly due to a leak, it may be necessary to repair and recharge the system to restore the unit’s efficiency. If the refrigerant level is low and the leak is not fixed, the AC unit may not function correctly and consume more energy, leading to higher energy bills. It is always best to consult a professional to determine the best course of action for repair. Wolcott Services can help schedule an AC repair in Gresham, Hillsboro, and OR.
Is it safe to be in a house with a Freon leak?
Refrigerant leaks can have significant health and environmental consequences. Refrigerant contains chemicals that can be poisonous if breathed in, leading to symptoms such as headaches, difficulty breathing, coughing, nausea, vomiting, and skin and eye irritation. If left untreated, refrigerant poisoning can lead to life-threatening issues such as labored breathing, buildup of fluid in the lungs, irregular heartbeat, mental fatigue, confusion, seizures, and loss of consciousness.
Signs of a refrigerant leak include loss of cooling, not blowing cool air, hissing or gurgling sounds coming from the indoor unit, frozen coils, and high utility bills. A low refrigerant level can cause the unit to take longer to cool your home or not cool to your desired set temperature. Frozen coils can also cause condensation to freeze, melting and dripping to the floor, causing a puddle around your indoor unit. If left unfixed, frozen coils can cause the system to breakdown and require costly repairs.
In conclusion, if you notice any signs of a refrigerant leak, it is crucial to contact an HVAC company to inspect your system for any potential issues. By addressing these issues, you can ensure your home’s comfort and safety.
Is it legal to add Freon to a leaking air conditioner?
Title 40 of the AC or heat pump regulations states that individuals cannot vent refrigerant. If a leak occurs and more refrigerant is added, the refrigerant escapes through the leak unless a technician repairs the leak. This means that a technician cannot simply top off a system with low refrigerant levels. Technicians have 30 days to repair a refrigerant leak, and if not fixed within that time, a plan must be created and recorded for a fix within 120 days.
Can you fix an AC leak yourself?
The repair of freon leaks can present a significant challenge, both in terms of technical difficulty and potential safety concerns. ServiceMaster of Lake Shore, with over two decades of experience, provides expedient and straightforward assistance in the identification and rectification of leaks in residential properties across the Chicagoland area. They can assist in the remediation of water damage resulting from AC water leaks, thereby ensuring the restoration of your home in a safe and effective manner.
📹 AC Leak Repair for $15 — Cheap & Simple Central Air Fix
With these quick steps I fixed a leaky HVAC line for just $15, without costly brazing. If you have a refrigerant leak in your central air …
I use Fieldpiece’s DR82 Infrared Leak Detector. It’s freakin awesome! I do a 3-hits-it’s-a-leak check, but I really don’t have to; if it goes off, there’s a leak (or I accidentally bumped the tip on something). Probably the greatest feature about this particular leak detector is the fact that it gives you three signs to let you know that there is a leak: there’s the audible sound, the flashing of the tip, and a vibration throughout the leak detector itself. That’s awesome! So it doesn’t matter if you’re blind, deaf, or dumb, you will find a leak if there is one!
I feel for the home owner… but the best thing to do is have some window units ready… 3 units are more than enough to keep you comfortable enough when SHTF with the main AC. they cost $150 each. Then with an older system, especially one approaching 20 years… just get the full install. else with and older system you may find yourself spending more money over the long term vs a new system plus the inconvenience (they always break on a Friday afternoon ) constantly fixing issues as its dies. At least you can get a warranty on installation and equipment that will cover you for a year or more. I also recommend insisting they inject UV dye into the system upon installation or even service. that way its easier to find the leak should one creep up at any point due to installation errors or aging.
If it’s a large leak in an air conditioning system it’s usually on the high side of the system To check the condenser hook up your high side and low tide gauges turn off the power remove the condenser fan motor from the top of the unit Turn the unit power back on checking the high side pressure with condenser fan motor not working the high side pressure will increase to a point where you might be able to locate the week much easier Do not exceed momentarily 400 PSI Turn off the power check With an electronic leak detector You can also use an UltraViolet leak detector After injecting and allowing the fluid to circulate throughout the system One other method is using nitrogen to build up the pressure to see if we could find a slow leak using a Ultra Violet leak detector after injected fluid All these methods MUST only be performed by specially trained air conditioning service technicians with years of experience Absolutely no homeowners should ever attempt these leak detection procedures which could cause permanent bodily injury or possible death Leave it to the professionals
If I can’t find a residential leak with an electronic & sonic leak detector within 30-40 minutes, I like to add fluorescent dye while I add refrigerant. This provides comfort cooling until we can reschedule the leak inspection, and let the dye have time to show up After 35 yrs in residential, if I can’t find the leak in a half hour or so on most units, then I know it is going to be a tricky one. The uv dye really helps to pinpoint the problem. Owner operators.. Remember, dye is a tool to help you. You dont need to make a fortune on the dye. Be fair to your customers. You will earn a fair profit during the repair or replacement of the coil.
Good article ! But Here’s some tips from a Guy doing it for 42 Years. 1) if System has at least 1lb of liquid refrigerant in it. ( 410a systems ) Just pull the disconnect. Wait 5 min for system to equalize. Equalized pressures on 410a system at 60 degrees outside with liquid in it will be 170Psig. Higher if its hotter out. See pt chart. 170 is plenty to find a leak with a H10-leak detector or any decent leak detector. 2) Most Leaks are in evaps. 75% of the time. Start there first. 3) Rarely have i needed to pressure test over 150 psi to find a Leak with a Ge H10 leak detector.
Most refrigerant leak detectors are incredibly sensitive. If you add any refrigerant you should always do a leak search. A basic leak search only takes 10-15 minutes to make sure you don’t have a good size leak. You don’t have to reclaim the gas and add nitrogen, the refrigerant is the gas you are looking for, and soap bubbles will also blow bubbles regardless if there is nitrogen, as long as there is pressure, don’t complicate it. You can’t give the customer the choice you are supposed to make as a trained technician when it’s such a simple move and avoids callbacks
is goodman heat pump GSZB404210A good for 2014 mobile home? in amarillo texas, r19 walls, r25 roof, r 30 floor, singal pan widows, 1216 sqft home. not air tight it has leaks. temps below 20 is like 8 days during heating seanson. i set termostat to 74 f and am using electric furnace 10 kwh for 108 hours a month. my electric rate is 0.097 kwh. the highest bill to have was 250 but that is from whole home usage. the goodman heat pump says it uses 2.9 kwh at 10 f with a COP of 2.08 and a 2.7 kwh with COP of 1.34 at -5 f. the price for the 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump is $4,876. i can get 30% off that price on rebate then it whould be $3,413.235 also, why whould tech go with mortex 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump. thanks for help.
I would not recommend to anyone to go 500psi on a leak test. I, like Oc have been doing it a long time. Never pressure tested that high, even on the commercial side of things. Can get dangerous. Usually there are operating max pressures listed, I would not exceed those. There is a leak detector that works via sound. I had one of those as well, no matter how small the leak, it would sound like a hurricane in your ears. Nice vid.
I use the Testo 316-4 for R410a systems and the Testo 316-3 for R22, but the Inficon Tek Mate is also great option for r-22 systems ( I also have a Inficon tek mate). The Testo 316-4 is probably the most sensitive electronic leak detector I’ve used for r410a.. and I’ve can’t even start to tell you how many electronic leak detectors bought then sold trying to find a good model. Do a Search for NathanHVAC electronic leak detector sensitivity test. He has tested most of the leak detectors I’ve purchased. He has made spreadsheet of the leak detectors and their sensitivity for R22 and R410a refrigerants. I’m trying out Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector this spring/summer to see if that can help pin point small leak’s faster.
How much do you charge for a new evap coil? Here in California it’s about $4,500 to replace an evap coil. If it’s under warranty, it’s about $2,000. Some hvac companies don’t even check to see if it’s under warranty. I’ve done two evap coils under warranty this year as a second opinion. The first two companies diagnosed bad evap coils and never checked to see if they were under warranty and quoted the customer about $4,500.
I bought a brand new construction home and closed Jan 2022. Yesterday the A/C company who installed the central air came last night at 7pm and BAM, The tech says there is a small Freon leak but couldn’t find it. So he charged me $144 for the service call and $188.50 for 2.5lbs of Freon. He told me his office will call me back. Today they call me and she tells me it will cost me $257 for the leak check and probably more for Freon. So I’m like WTF! STRADA installed all of this and now I am on the hook for this leak and the house is only 2 years old and they installed all of this! WOW.
I’m having this same exact problem with my ac. Guy came out couple years ago and replaced the fan thing on the inside unit and said that would fix our problem. The system will not hold refrigerant. The line constantly freezes up. Definitely don’t have $$ for a brand new system. Just need an honest trustworthy HVAC person to look at it and find the leak and tell me if it can be fixed. I’m in Virginia about 50 miles south of DC and 50 miles north of Richmond if you know of anyone in the area you can recommend.
Hey Taddy, here in South Florida in a New Apartment with what seems to be a pretty new Freidrich Large Size AC Wall Unit. Within past 2 or 3 years. Doesn’t seem to be an older Freon unit. Moved in about 2 months ago. AC runs pretty good and cold, but periodically I smell a Paint Thinner / Vinegar smell blowing out of the Air Conditioner. I contacted my landlord. In your opinion can this be repaired fairly easily by an HVAC Professional in Comparison to the larger Central AC Units you seem to be repairing. Your advise is greatly appreciated for the best advice I should be getting from a local HVAC professional.
Hi! Thank you for this very informative article. I’m your new subscriber. Can I ask you a question regarding our AC unit? We just bought a house and unfortunately the AC is not cooling the room. The AC Unit is manufactured in 2006 (very old). And it’s definitely leaking refrigerant. The technician that checked the unit suggested to add refrigerant and check for leaks 1 or 2 weeks after. Is that okay? Or should I insist to find the leak first? I would really appreciate your advise. Thank you on everything that you do!
Without keeping this too long. Unless you don’t mind you can respond and help me. Basically this is the second central heat and air system I bought in 3 years. Because I’m dealing with American home shield warranty, everybody run no one use them anyway. Brand new system. They left rags, bolts, wires, all kind of stuff in the air handler. After that it still kept freezing up about 9-10 times. Then they said it was in my ducting so they retape that and then totally lied and said we never had mastic at all. I had a second company come out. They got up into an area where the company that lied never even got before. They couldn’t even fit there. He took pictures and showed your mastic is fine. I forgot to also tell you the first company that installed the brand new units already has replaced three parts on it. The t-valve, the capacitor and something else. I don’t even know a brand new unit. This was all in the first 3 months. I got it put in this February and here we are still waiting with a huge electric bill in this little house every month and having to keep the air down. The last guy that came without testing anything like you just did said it’s your line set. Yep that’s it.. no testing at all. He just put his head up underneath Air handler and said yep it’s your line set. Now I know when you get a new system they are supposed to test and make sure the line set even fits your new system. Well this house was built in ’96 and like I said the first system when I bought the house 20 years old it had a 3 ton double pump system.
I’ve been smelling a minor leak in my apt I’ve lived their 7 years and recently just started smelling the chemical Freon smell but the hvac guy said that the lines were not frozen and he didn’t smell anything. I already told him he wouldn’t smell it unless the hung around for awhile and was sensitive to the smell as it is not a constant smell. I know he didn’t check the inside unit after he couldn’t smell anything. It’s so frustrating So the apt maintenance guy pulled the fridge out said well it’s not wet under there so it’s not the fridge. I smell it even if the air is not running it’s very annoying and a bit nauseating. Could you tell me what I could do or what kind of detection device I could get to show them I’m not imagining this I don’t want to bring my granddaughters over to stay till I get it resolved?
Hay Taddy, Got an unrelated Question, sorry to post on your article. I went to a Goodman PKG HP the other day with Compressor not starting. I could hear it trying like a dead CAP. Checked the CAP (70×5 duel) it was 4.7 on fan and 311 on Herm!! 311/5 wow. Cap was 1.5 yrs old. I replaced it and system began to run. Was pulling 15.5 amps at start then 10 minutes in I noticed it had risen to 18 then ten minutes latter it was near 20. The RLA is 26. I traced the wires and found nothing mis wired to the cap so I called it the Compressor and recommended the Comp. I did not find any strange readings when I did OHM the comp tho before I restarted with the new CAP. Have you seen this before? It is a new one on me.
lol you don’t put in 350 or 500psi nitrogen in a residential unit to leak test. Commercial/res tech here over 20 years. you need to read the max test pressure for both the evap coil and the outdoor coil and which ever is lower go with that pressure for test. Many R22 indoor coils are only rated to 150psig max test pressure if you add 350-500psig you are creating new leaks in the evaporator coil!! but idk maybe I screwed this all up and this article is so homeowners take out their A coils in a way they will need to replace them entirely. ooops
AC guy found our 2008 out of warranty system was out of old type refrigerant. Checked outside unit, no leaks. Plans to check for leaks on inside unit, weld leak if doable, install “stop leak”, and new type refrigerant. If systems loses refrigerant, he will deduct charges from total price for new inside unit (or replacement coil) . I was told that old type refrigerant is very expensive, new type is about 95% effective in cooling.
The only thing that you forgot to do is that when ever you do any sort of testing over 100 lbs of nitrogen you tell EVERYONE AROUND that place that you are performing a high pressure test and that it would be better if they stayed away from the copper pipe. God forbid if it had a bad joint and it exploded it could hurt someone
If tech suspects a leak t seems like at that point it should not be up to the customer to just recharge. This is basically leak detection using refrigerant. I thought the EPA had rules against that. my common sense says that even if a system is 6-7 years old and has been working well then stops cooling there is a leak. I understand that nothing is 100% leak free but how many calls do you get that that the system is grossly low and there isnt some type of correctable leak? maybe 1% Customers are cheap and have this notion that they can just fill and be good for another 5-10 years when 99% of the time thats not the case. So all they do is throw more money away in the long term and harm the environment. Im not trying to be a crazy tree hugger but sometimes the customer needs to be educated.
Merv, your article saved me. I had a JB Weld Steel stick lying around but it would rust in the A-coil area. Then I watched your article and saw your waterweld. That worked! The evap coil leak was so bad it needed 3 bottles of 16oz refrigerant. I was already thinking about replacing my old units with new ones… but it has new life again. Cool air is a relief after a few days in the high 80s.
I really enjoyed reading the comments because all the professional HVAC guys got triggered. If HVAC companies didn’t charge $200/Hr for labor and mark up parts and refrigerant 3X, then people wouldn’t try to DIY the fix. I DIY’d my own 24 year old R22 system. I got my EPA 608 Type 2 cert via SKillCat, bought 5 lbs of R22 for $219, a set of Yellow Jacket gauges for $150 and $10 bubble leak liquid. I was lucky and my leak was a bad Schrader valve which I replaced with a $25 core removal tool and new brass caps. I recharged using superheat since it is a piston system. Total cost was $450 and I have a set of tools to use when I eventually do a unit replacement.
Excellent. I have a ~15-year-old mini-split that’s started leaking oil, and the professional fix is of course replacement. It still heats and cools fine so I’m hoping this repair will keep it going a little longer. I was contemplating attempting brazing but this seems less risky for an inexperienced DIY-er like myself!
I couldnt reach a leak one time in a radiator on a 73 buick century & was stuck like chuck in indian territory. The interior of Mexico. I met a friendly who took pity on me because there could be no doubt in his mind that i had gotten lost from some special facility, and that poeple were probably looking for me.. so in his old truck he had his lunch kit, tools and extra water. Well you can imagine i tjought he was the one who’d escaped a facility when he added some of his water to my radiator and the entire contents of his black pepper shaker from his lunch kit. I mustve looked at him like he’d made a joke sbout his own moms questionable virtues at her funeral. “Calmaté menso gringoté he said “Esta es muy bien por tu”. I raised my hands and said ok ok ok and conceded my ignorance,. He then turned my buick over and let it run for a minute or so. Ghe leak vontinued for a minute or so but then began to diminish, and by the time @ 5-8 minutes rolled around it had stopped completely, at which point he grinned a toothless smile of pride and brushed his shoulder off with his hand, and i had to agree as i yanked him in for a hug, clapping him on the back. He laughed a huge laugh and shoved me back with more strength than a man less than 5′.5″ ever shouldve possessed. Turning away with that empty but unmistakeably sincere grin, he said “Pos åndéle mensoté y via con Dios.” I turned and took one last look at the now dry radiator, shook my head in disbelief, slammed the hood and proceeded to make tracks north.
Perv I mean, Merv, you have a great sense of tumour. Nevertheless, you are honest, very informative and a pro! Keep up the good work for people who got taken advantage of shady repair guys. Apropos, with that voice of yours, you could make millions on tv or radio commercials! Think about it. Thanks for the repair articles; very entertaining.
The HVAC guy found a leak in my coil this morning and told me the fix was to replace the whole coil unit for ??? maybe a couple grand??? with the labor. He’s going to send me a quote for the job and while he was here he topped me off with 4 lbs of freon in my 4 Ton unit. So what do I do? (here I am looking at other cheaper fixes). I like your style and your tongue in cheek attitude. Thanks for the amusement and the comedy. You’re OK Merv.
I had a AC guy came and he told me he got zero pressure on .my AC refrigerant pipe. He even cut them at furnace to run a pressure test, and still no pressure. He told me I have a leak in my AC pipe and suggest reroute since he said the pipe is under slab. Not sure I can trust the info. Any advise on how to fix it.
I watched this entire article and laughed through the whole darn thang! I too am experiencing a leak during the pandemic and unemployment so his humor was right on time to make my hot Mother’s Day alllright! Wish he lived in the Houston area cause I have a small leak in coil that would set me back $2300 not including r22 Freon. No thanks! Not on a 15 year unit that’s given me problems since year 2 and with yearly maintenance too. Guess this cowgirls headed to Home Depot for a floor unit for my room and no company til I can afford a new one. I am grateful for you tubers like this. Little do you know sir your little article surely brightened my day and just when I needed it. I am so grateful to God for you and your wonderful knowledge and humor😇
At the end of the article you said all you have to do is “recharge ” the unit. This implies the unit was empty of refrigerant. Your leak detector sensed no leaks, how would it if there was no gas in the unit? Did you mean top the charge off? Did you you do a follow up article on how well your repair worked?
Merv i need u expertise my central ac unit went out yesterday it stopped blowing cold air. I called a guy to look at it and he said there is a leak somewhere that is letting the coolant out . What I need to know how hard is it to find where the leak is because he is acting like its going to be pretty hard to find it and so on. Then that’s when he hit me with i think u might want to just go ahead and get a brand new unit and he would give me a good deal and put it in. So I really need to know is he trying to put one over on me.
How do you know you fixed the leak if all the refrigerant leaked out already? Now you have to pay for refrigerant and a technician to come out and recharge the system, but before that happens they are going to want to check your work and make sure there aren’t additional leaks before filling it up. Fix the leak might be $15, but that’s not what people need to know, they want cold air again bottom line
If you’re perusal this website for anything other than entertainment value you need to move on. SERIOUSLY DON’T DO THIS!!! As a guy who fixes air conditioners for a living I am telling you that there are SO many things that can go wrong. You could cause your $600 repair to become getting a new unit. Will it work? Maybe… but once you get that JB Weld on something there is no way for your heating and air guy to get it off. That means if you didn’t put it in the right place you may have just screwed yourself hard. Don’t listen to hacks like this call a heating and air guy that you can trust.