Venting a dryer from an interior room involves determining the most direct venting path, cutting a vent opening in the exterior wall using a 4 1/4-inch hole saw, installing the vent hood, assembling the duct pipe, and testing the dryer. Venting a dryer in the middle of the house is not always ideal, but it is possible for some people. To speed up clothes drying and prevent lint build-up, install a smooth metal dryer vent.
Rigid metal vents are safer than flexible plastic and can be installed by following these steps: measure and mark the correct location for the rigid pipe to vent to the outside, drill a pilot hole through the marked location, and attach the dryer venting tube to the back of the electric clothes dryer. Secure the other end of the dryer tube to the venting box using the other clamp.
For best results, a dryer should be set next to an outside wall and vented directly through the wall. Longer vents, like through the roof or from a ventless heat pump dryer, require no venting and condense laundry moisture. The most common place to vent your dryer is horizontally through the exterior wall near the dryer, which is the ideal placement.
Indoor dryer vents should be installed properly to avoid fire hazards. Ventless heat pumps are more energy efficient and do not require venting, but they take longer to dry but are better for the environment.
📹 How to Vent a Clothes Dryer | Ask This Old House
Time: 1-2 hours Cost: $30 Skill Level: Beginner Tools List for Venting a Clothes Dryer: Measuring tape Drill Driver Hole saw …
What happens if you can’t vent your dryer outside?
Dryer venting is crucial for maintaining proper ventilation and preventing fire risk, mold growth, uncomfortable heat, and longer drying times. The lint in the dryer, which is flammable, can build up and catch fire at high drying temperatures. Moisture released during drying can also be trapped inside, leading to mold and mildew growth, which can cause breathing issues, allergies, and damage to clothes and the home.
Instead of venting outside, consider consulting a professional dryer technician who can suggest alternatives like ventless or condensation dryers. Venting to a window under adult supervision is a temporary solution, but it is not a safe long-term solution and can still pose fire and moisture risks. An indoor vent kit can be used if venting is not possible outside, requiring installation of a vent, mounting it securely, installing the exhaust line, and calibrating the exhaust flap.
Is venting a dryer indoors safe?
Venting a dryer vent indoors can negatively affect indoor air quality by introducing dust, lint, and other pollutants. Laundry detergents and dryer sheets often contain harmful chemicals that can be inhaled. It is not recommended to use an indoor dryer vent with a gas-powered clothes dryer, as the fumes contain carbon monoxide. Outdoor dryer vents are generally safer, so if possible, install them. If indoor vents are the best option, follow safety tips to protect yourself and your family.
Ensure your dryer is electric, use clotheslines or laundromats to reduce indoor air pollutants, check for mold and mildew frequently, run your dryer on low humidity days, and have your vent professionally cleaned at least once or twice per year.
Can I run a dryer vent inside a wall?
To keep your laundry area clean and less humid, it’s essential to have exhaust vents that lead outside. The most common location is horizontally through the exterior wall near the dryer, but other common locations include through the basement or attic/roof. Most dryer models can’t run the exhaust duct more than 25 feet from the dryer to the exhaust port. Ducts should be as short and straight as possible to reduce lint buildup. Good-to-go dryer vent locations include venting through any exterior wall, and venting to the exterior on the shortest, straightest path possible.
Can you vent a dryer from an interior room?
Excessive moisture in your home can cause mold growth and structural damage, as building materials are not designed to withstand constant dampness. Dryer exhaust can introduce pollutants into your air, including seven hazardous pollutants, two of which are known to cause cancer. Venting a gas dryer indoors can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, so only consider an indoor vent with an electric dryer.
Lint trapped in the vent can be a fire hazard, and filters in indoor dryer vents need to be cleaned more frequently to prevent house fires. Proper dryer venting is essential for safety and appliance efficiency. If indoor venting is not possible, consider running your dryer vent outside or using a clothesline or laundromat.
Is it against code to vent a dryer inside?
The M1502. 2 guidelines require exhaust ducts to terminate on the outside of the building or follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions. They should be at least 3 feet away from openings into buildings and equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens should not be installed at the duct termination. Many dryer vents terminate in crawlspaces or attics, allowing moisture to accumulate and promoting mold and decay. Screens should be installed at the exterior and away from doors or windows. The diameter of the exhaust duct must match the dryer’s listing and manufacturer’s installation instructions.
How can I vent my dryer without outside access?
To enhance indoor air quality and efficiency, it is recommended to utilize a temporary aluminum hose to direct warm air, lint, and gases outside the residence. Furthermore, the installation of a window dryer vent can prove advantageous.
Can you vent a dryer into a bucket of water?
Clothes dryer vent buckets are commonly used by homeowners with improperly vented laundries, but they do not comply with the Mechanical Code requirements. The reason for this is excessive moisture and lint accumulation. Moisture condensation from laundry water can cause fungus and mold infection, while lint accumulation can pose a fire hazard. The bucket’s water collects lint, and the water is changed periodically.
The plumber’s question is whether the vent bucket is OK or not, as it does not meet the Mechanical Code requirements. An exterior dryer vent is necessary to prevent moisture condensation and lint accumulation, which can cause health issues.
What is the safest way to vent a dryer?
Dryer venting is crucial for air flow efficiency, quick drying times, and reducing utility bills. A minimum of 4″ in diameter is recommended for clean, unobstructed, frictionless ducts. The DryerFlex meets the 4″ diameter specs, and flexible transition hose between the dryer and wall outlet should be either foil or aluminum flexible duct. Concealed ducting must be rigid metal (galvanized or aluminum) duct, and joints should be installed with metal tape, not rivets or screws, to prevent lint collection.
Dryer venting should be independent of other systems, such as chimneys or exhaust vents. Termination of dryer venting must be to the exterior with a proper hood or roof cap equipped with a backdraft damper. Small orifice metal screening should not be part of the hood or roof cap, as this will catch lint and block the opening quickly.
Good practices for proper dryer venting include inspecting the termination port of the dryer and the wall or roof cap, looking for birds nest or clogged openings, and feeling for proper exit velocity of the air leaving the vent. If clogged or partially clogged exhaust ducting is suspected, it is likely necessary to have them cleaned. Dryer vent cleaning improves safety and efficiency and should be cleaned or inspected every 6-12 months.
Ensure that the flex transition hose is not kinked or crushed, and the space behind the dryer should be sufficient to allow the hose to bend with minimal deflection and restrictions. Routine cleaning is done from the outside by sending an air-propelled “jet-snake” through the vent, while Problem Cleaning is performed when an individual dryer is not drying clothes fast enough.
The use of white vinyl flex pipe is almost completely prohibited by building departments and appliance manufacturers. Most appliances insist on using aluminum flexible pipes. Exhaust ducts should be straight and short, and overdrying can waste energy and damage clothes. Regularly cleaning lint filters on washers and dryers can save energy, improve performance, and minimize fire hazards.
Is it OK to run a dryer without a vent?
The use of a dryer without a vent pipe is not recommended due to potential fire risks and lint buildup. Gas and electric dryers release harmful gases, including carbon monoxide, if lint catches fire. The function, productivity, and safety of a dryer depend on the vent hose. If a gas dryer has a vent, it is essential to use it. Electric dryers can occasionally use a vent without venting, but it is not recommended. The vent hose helps remove lint from clothing and improve airflow. The exhaust should be directed outside, allowing hot air, gas, and lint to escape the building.
Can you vent a dryer through a window?
The TOPOWN Window Dryer Vent represents a safe and environmentally friendly alternative to traditional wood or other combustible windows. It provides a convenient solution for those who are unable or prefer not to vent through the wall.
📹 How To Install An Indoor Dryer Vent
This video demonstrates how to install an indoor dryer vent. The process involves removing the old vent, marking and drilling holes for the new vent, securing the vent to the wall, attaching the dryer hose, and installing a filter. The video also covers how to adjust the weight on the safety flap to ensure proper airflow.
I just absolutely LOVE this website. And I would watch “This Old House” as a young man. Believe it or not I think it molded my brain to understand basic homeowner maintenance. Now that I’m a husband and I have my family to take care of this website really was the father I didn’t have. So thanks to ALL the Men and Woman whom have helped me without even knowing it.
Two things that, quite frankly I’m surprised were missing. Firstly, never drill into a wall without first confirming the absence of any wiring or plumbing. Secondly, though the new vent duct was a snug fit, the gaps should still be filled with expanding foam, both inside and out. Also, a long straight piece of wire hanger chuckled in a drill works a treat for drilling pilot holes through walls. No expense for a single-use drill bit, and the hole made is extremely small and easy to mask in the event of a mistake. Lastly, the core from the hole drilled for the new duct makes a great plug for the abandoned vent penetration.
I replaced one of these (still, admittedly- nowhere near this long or indirectly situated to the exterior) in an antebellum house owned by a friend last year. The commonality I found was that both extant vents and openings is that they traveled down and meandered (as I said- this one still a great deal more than the one I replaced) UNDER the house. Now, if I’m correct, the venting used in bygone years was much more substantial- I.e. hard, solid, thicker metal, vs. the foiled wire tubing that is currently in use… could it have had something to do with some benefit derived from heating or assisting the heating methods of these homes at the time the former ductwork was put in place? Either that or that the ductwork was inherited from the installation of something other than a dryer at one time?The more substantial duct, if not insulated- and what I removed under the house I worked in was not, mostly, at least, underneath the floor- it seems it would’ve conducted and distributed the heat underneath the house. During the summer, it probably wouldn’t have been enough to have even noticed, but seems like it could’ve made quite a big difference during the cold months of the year. That’s the only plausible theory I could think of for another (even longer) stretch of ductwork as such, being similar in an older house as well when all of the newer ones I’ve seen from the ‘50s and later go straight out horizontally.
I would recommend a critter cover as Richard mentioned. I never had any trouble with birds and the dryer vent until one Spring I found out they were filling the vent pipe up like crazy with grass and twigs. I cleared it out and 2 days later they had almost filled it up halfway into the house again. On went the critter cover over the exterior vent. No more of that!
Very important to keep the vent cleaned out. I snaked my dryer vent out a few months ago and replaced the busted exterior cover, I’m lucky that I didn’t start a fire there was so much lint in there. Also that guy was lucky that he could vent it straight outside, that his laundry was on an exterior wall. My house its a really long 20′ run.
Now watch my article on how to clean out the dryer to prevent a dryer fire! But really, I came here because my new house has no vent in the basement all! They moved the dryer to the main floor on the opposite side of the house and I too did not want to run 37 ft across the floor joists to connect and go through a closet. Now to drill a pilot hole and see where Im ending up under a low clearance deck before it snows again!
The vinyl should have been uninstalled around the vent. Install a j-box flange dedigned for exhaust vents. Cut the house wrap, flashing tape on the flange overlap the house wrap and tuck tape just like flashing a window. Cut and reinstall the vinyl siding. Now you can drill and install a proper vent over the j-flange no caulking required. Caulking against vinyl siding is no good. When water gets behind it you need proper flashing and house wrap. Spray foam around pipe from the interior if desired to keep cold air out.
I wish more people would look into heat pump dryers. Most people don’t realize that an electric dryer in your house is one of the most energy consuming devices you’ll ever find. Using a heat pump dryer means that it will use 25% of the energy and you don’t need a vent! They are great in situations where retrofitting a dryer and installing a vent is not ideal like needing to drill through 8 in of a concrete basement wall like the city wanted me to do in a basement apartment I was building. I just said I don’t need a vent if the dryer doesn’t have one! Problem solved
I know This Old House and its commentators are known to critique everything they do, but personally I would have rather had this dryer’s ducting run through the floor like it did before and go out the wall via the sill plate. That way the ducting would not be exposed in the laundry room. What probably happened is that the washer and dryer were in the basement, and the homeowners ran such a lengthy ducting in the basement so that they wouldn’t have to drill another hole in the wall of their home. Or the old dryer discharge was at the rear of the home where it would be less visible rather than at the side. At least that lengthy dryer run was solid, smooth ducting. My Father’s home, built in 1999, has a similar length routing with that vinyl ducting that has the spring in it for rigidity. Has sags in it between the joists, as it is hung on the floor joists in the basement. Vacuumed out the full run last year for the very first time in 19 years and got so much lint out of it, it was unbelievable. I bet his clothes are drying faster now although he said he didn’t notice a problem before.
I just bought an old home, and in the “utility” room, the dryer only has about 2.5/3 inches of clearance from the back of the wall, for the door to shut. ALSO, the exhaust hole is in the floor…underneath the dryer. Would the best thing be to build a platform, then do a 90 degree/tight fit vent extension?
1st Dryers are usually rated for max 50ft, (elbows are 10 feet each on 90) anymore then that a booster fan can be used to prevent “a lint trap”. Second, they must live in a only warm climate cause usually the first 4 feet from the exterior are required to be insulated to prevent condensation buildup on the pipe and 3rd NEVER use screws when running a dryer vent as that causes a lint buildup without a doubt. 4. I wouldn’t use that cage around the dryer hood cause lint could buildup on that as well. 5. I see people complaining about the distance from the wall, this is an after the fact quick fix for the best/shortest run, normally its run through the wall behind it unless its a load bearing wall then usually goes down into the basement and out the rim board
Check the dryer installation instructions for maximum vent length. My last vented dryer allowed only 12 feet with 2 elbows. Even with the new aluminum vent, you need to check/clean every year, minimum. The dryer blower wheel may also be plugged with lint, depends on how many cotton fabrics you dry in the machine. Cotton is bad for lint. Buy a condensing or heat pump dryer instead, they’re ventless. Use a clothesline on nice days during the summer.
Just a reminder, dryer lint is flammable. It’s like a fine dust that gets everywhere. I’ve seen poor dryer venting lead to fires. Many times a dryer is located near a gas fired furnace or gas fired water heater. It is important to make sure there is no dryer lint accumulating outside of the venting. Apartments are notorious for having a laundry closet that is also contains the gas water. Lint builds up, water heater fires up…..boom, fire. Venting through an attic where there is a gas fired furnace can pose the same danger.
Man every episode with you people. Do you guys not understand the point of this old house?? It’s for diy poor homeowners that can’t afford to fix things by use of a professional. Do you really think these guys actually do work like that? Thats a $20 kit at depot if i were Richard actually doing a job I would use better material, better practices, taking time to caulk everything I can to justify more money. It’s to show you hey for $20 and a holesaw bit you can do this at home or pay a plumber $400.
You did not use the proper vent for vinyl siding. Vinyl siding expands and contracts and screwing directly into it prevents this movement which leads to rippling and buckling over time. This is a common mistake made by contractors. Use a “mount master” vent that slides in behind the siding and fastens directly to the outside plywood or osb.
4:36 – Not mentioned and looks like not followed…he did not even bother searching for a stud in the wall before drilling, and consequently it looks like the holesaw just tore right through a stud that may or may not be load bearing. With the dryer flex hose, moving the discharge a couple inches in either direction to avoid a stud is best practice.
Take a 2-gal. bucket, drill 2-inch holes throughout the top and sides, drop it into a 5-gal. bucket with a similar set of holes drilled, lay a cut, round screen inside on top of the 2-gal. bucket. Then add a flexible duct from the dryer through the bucket lid, and voila!, no need to put another hole in your house, and you gain a free humidifier once a week. 😊💪⭐⭐⭐
You drilled right through the wall stud !! Why weaken your homes structure?? Should have kept the hole out from the corner to avoid this Sure the dryer sits away from the wall by a few inches but just live with that. Also drill drywall side first because it is much easier to patch if things don’t work out. I would think the siding would be harder to fix . I spent many years installing laundry equipment and killed myself getting them really close to the wall. Finally stopped that nonsense. If a customer complained I basically told them to just live with it!! Hell, my own equipment is approx 8″ from the wall and I like it. Easy to look back there to see if it needs cleaned.. (Oops ! I should have read the other comments. This has been covered well already below)
Up in the north we use the condenser dryer to keep the heat in the house (in winter). Still a good fit so you dont have to put in a vent, but not good if its working against your AC for cold. We usually hang our laundry outside in the summer if not need to tumble (or door open). Not southern states compatible i guess. 🙂
Found a great vent connector on YouTube. It is called MagVent MV90. It eliminates the tangle of flex duct behind your dryer. Flex duct is nothing but a lint trap and in some areas it is against fire code . It was the best $68 I ever spent. It paid for itself in one month’s reduction in my electric bill. That tangle of flex duct was so restrictive that it was packed with lint and it took two cycles to dry blue jeans. Now a full load of blue jeans dries in one cycle. Magvent is ingeniously simple and easy to install. Bye, bye flex duct.
yea had a new furnace put in my parents parent again the first one was instill wrong from the start they put the vent pipe right when you walk into the basement this time they are renting the furnace and did come with AC funny the people have put in a complete to thee town it going to be to loud on their dog ears we had always put up Christmas lights when they buy the house they house does not get lights on it re(laced the deck the completed about that too when i was build it but they did like the garbage box that i had to paid for they full up with they trees they moved the dryer out so they did not work over the washer or dryer they did put a had dryer vent back when they moved them out the company did called us in with a problem they had in one of the schools they were cell in to fix the noise i had to go their to help out with that looking what had happen to started the noise they never thought about looking for how the unit was sitting the rubber bumpers got to old and broke them the unit moved found the base jack it up and moved it back on the base with the new rubber to sit on and had the weld that i did find on other supports fixed no more noise i did give them my business because of that job at this time my parents wanted to put a TV in the living room it was getting to mush for them to use the stairs and the TV is old and heavy it staying were it is for now they put that up for them as well and did the pulling in the wiring to
This must be a house down south. If you cut thru my vapor barrier and ran a pipe like that I’d have mold growth in the first heating cycle also liked how he didn’t check for studs or header jack studs for window that he just whacked out with his holesaw. Would have made for a good show if he hit the 10-3 dryer cord burried in wall as well. Sometimes these shows are a comedy
In Toronto, when outside temperature reaches -18 degrees C, the duct inside the house reaches -8 degrees C depending on the room temperature set. I have 2 problems: There are ice build-ups around the duct portion which enters the the house through the drywall. the dryer is so cold in the area where the filter sits. The coldness spread to half of the dryer making the laundry room super cold. Anyone has any suggestions that are proven to work, please?
If your so concerned about lint getting caught in the elbow maybe you should lesrn how to properly roll your elbows. If there’s anything that I’ve learned through my sheet metal career is to try to eliminate as many 90 degree elbows. You could’ve just used the flexible high heat resistant duct for the drier and the pipe connection. Ps, don’t forget to insulate the pipe and apply weather caulking for the louver.
I watch your show and enjoy the knowledge you guys present. Great presentation!. I own a condo in a 7 floor multi unit building, built back in the mid-seventies. There is a half-bath in my third bedroom and all fixtures were removed before I purchased it. I would likes to put a laundry room in this half-bath. There is exhausts vent in this area. My question is can I vent the drier thru the existing vent. But I don”t know where and how this vent exit the unit. Should I proceed with this remolding?
This is a teaching article and there should be more content and detail with regard to what could be inside the wall. People perusal your article will think they can just drill a hole in the wall and all will be fine. This is missleading and the average home owner may drill into a stud or even worse a live wire.
A plethora of faux pas 1. did homeowner have a home inspection? 2. Did the inspector miss the issues? 3. Kinked flexible transition section and the exhaust with too many bends. Industry standards, local jurisdictions, and appliance manufacturers only allow a eight foot flexible metal section, which can not penetrate walls, floors or ceilings, nor have screws for fastening and no screen (Opps-This Old House recommended it) on the exterior termination. The exhaust has several bends which reduces it efficiency. (90 deg. bend reduces the acceptable length by 5 feet while a 45 deg bend = 2.5 ft length reduction) Incorrectly installed exhaust can overheat dryers which can catch fire. The dryer transition should be replaced with a metal type installed per today’s industry standards and the exhaust should be reduced in length and relocated. A power ventilator is optional.
It is against code to put a screen over a dryer vent exhaust because it will quickly clog and create a fire hazard. On a practical level, this homeowner will be able to easily clean that screen, because of its location. But often these screens are put on roofs, where they are practically inaccessible. Also, that screen they put on might stop a bird, but will be laughed at by a mouse. I recommend relying on the louvers alone, and cleaning your ductwork yearly. More on this issue: twincitiesfurnacecleaning.com/blog/hidden-danger-on-your-roof-dryer-vent-screening
Very nice article. This is exactly what I had to do but a lot less length, only 22 feet. I did a few things different. I used a Dryer Dock (quick connect). I mounted 1/2 to the wall and the other half to the dryer so no tools needed to clean the dryer and duct once per year. Just 1/4″ twist and it disconnects. The second thing I did was to insulate the dryer pipe as it gets down to 35 degrees below zero here at times. You can add a spring loaded damper but that is a place to allow lint to build up. Third is to add wheel trolley, that when I tighten up one screw and the dryer is able to roll out. Loosen the screw and it sits on the feet again. This article shows the electric outlet higher than the top of the dryer. I put mine below and added a shelf to stop things from falling behind the machines. The washer connections do have to be that height but not the dryer’s. Because I live in an arctic environment I use outside air brought in through a heat exchange to supply the dryer with air from outside and not causing negative air pressure which brings in air from windows and doors as you use the dryer. Outside air is pulled into the basement through exchange, then the air is brought up to laundry room via 4″ Easy Fit Connector. This has a 4″ round, then transitions to oval to fit in a standard 3 1/2″ wall at a 90 degrees. This is the same principle as the newer 96+ furnaces that pull in outside air for combustion.
Hi I’m here to see if anyone can help me my current dryer vent has a problem where it’s in the center of the house (rented by the way). But theirs no way to get to vent out the house it goes upwards as it leaves dryer and it’s about 3 inches higher than dryer making my clothes take 4 cycles to dry when it usually only took 1 to maybe 1 1/2 if their was lots of clothes. Also when I checked it the other day the vent itself had about a cup of water just leak out of it as I removed the flex line. Is the water coming from the vent iself or the dryer?
Hey master builder, shouldn’t you caulk the outside vent? Or maybe you’re looking for future article content on how to repair a rotten and mouldy wall. Funny part is, you’re leaving evidence online for some future owner to sue you for mold and fungus illness. Also, before cutting a 4″ hole through your wall, you have a 25% chance of hitting a stud, which is a load bearing element that carries your roof trusses. Maybe you should have checked with a stud finder before going gang busters and drilling your wall.
At 6:30, they cut a floor joist bridge for no good reason other than laziness or stupidity. Yesterday I just watched Richard talk about the importance of floor joist bridging, youtu.be/23amU7EWy7g at 6:30, then today they needlessly cut one and didn’t address the importance of repairing or replacing it. At the very least, he could have simply un-nailed and re-nailed it. Come on Richard…… I expect better…..
You said galvanized piping. Codes require aluminum ducting on moisture rich dryer ducting. I too tape the seams, but keep them on the top of pipe run to further eliminate possible leaks of moisture collecting in the bottom of ducting, especially on longer runs. Personally, I wouldn’t have drilled out that stud, even though it was only a corner sheetrock nailer. I would have stuck a piece of wire in pilot hole and moved it around searching for romex/wiring. Nice, clean job.
this article is bullshit first of all I live in south Florida I have my own dryer vent cleaning and repair business. you don’t connect dryer vent systems like that you’re supposed to use Galvanized 4 inch steal pipe not aluminum that’s paper thin. that crappy vent on outside House you’re installing is probably cracked or lint clogged by now how’s lint supposed to escape with that type of exterior dryer wall mount