To safely mount an exterior spa disconnect box, follow these steps:
- Attach the mounting bracket to the back of the disconnect box using the provided screws.
- Hold the box against the wall and align the mounting holes with the markings on the wall.
- Remove the knockouts on the bottom of the box and feed the wires through the opening.
Before starting, it is essential to understand why an exterior spa disconnect box is necessary and the tools and equipment required for the job. This guide will also take you through a step-by-step process, highlighting common mistakes and guiding you through the installation process.
To wire a hot tub (Spa) GFCI Disconnect panel/breaker, gather tools and turn off power before starting. Mount the disconnect box to a secure surface close to the spa, ensuring it’s within reach and easily accessible.
Hot tub disconnects are small breaker boxes typically found around five to six feet from the edge of the hot tub. Within the disconnect, you fill find a breaker, which provides the ability to use a GFCI disconnect designed for 240V hot tubs, 4 or 3-wire spa types.
Install the wiring, poke the cable out through a hole in the wall, connect the Type SER cable to the back side of the hot tub disconnect switch, and mount it to the exterior wall. Caulk around the disconnect switch.
For vinyl siding walls and wallboard coverings, use a PVC box adapter and a short piece of conduit to run into the house through the rim joist. Use long wood screws to mount two pieces of super strut to the lowpoints of the siding to hold the disconnect off the vinyl and not flatten out the spa.
In summary, installing a hot tub requires careful planning, proper installation, and proper safety measures.
📹 Hot tub electrical install explaining parts of spa package and terminations
A hot tub installed, showing terminations and of spa package, panel, explaining the types of wire used and what each wire is …
Does a hot tub disconnect need to be visible?
The distance between the disconnect and the interior walls of swimming pools, spas, and hot tubs should be a minimum of five feet, and it should be within the line of sight of the pool, spa, or hot tub, unless an effective barrier is present. In such cases, the distance between the disconnect and the swimming pool, spa, or hot tub should not exceed 50 feet.
Does a spa disconnect need a ground rod?
The structure should have two ground rods driven outside near the main disconnect, and if the main power comes in as a meter and no main shut off, drive the rods there and use bare copper or aluminum. These rods should be sized according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) 250. 64 and NEC 250. 50 and 52. Sub-panels should never have grounding electrodes, water electrodes, gas or secondary electrodes bonded to them. Grounding must be separated from grounded conductors at all sub panels.
Some older homes have split bus-bar panels, which need to have no more than six breakers above the lighting and power circuits below. Most jurisdictions expect a by-pass lever meter outside with a main breaker shut off. An all-in-one cabinet can be installed to include the meter, shut off, and four to 8 breaker spaces in the panel for feeding the sub-panels inside.
Bonding metal near a manufactured spa is only necessary if they did not provide a 8 bare solid copper under the control panel for the motors or if there is metal near the spa with in 10′.
What is the NEC code for exterior disconnect?
Section 225. 41 of the 2023 National Electric Code (NEC®) introduces a new requirement for emergency disconnects in one- and two-family dwelling units supplied by an outside feeder or branch circuit. This change is part of Part II of Article 225, which applies to buildings or other structures supplied by feeders or branch circuits. The new section ensures first responders have a suitable exterior disconnecting means in case of natural disasters, fires, or flooding.
Do you need clearance in front of a disconnect?
During workplace inspections, ensure that electrical panels and disconnects are free from obstructions such as parked items or stored equipment. Allow at least three to three-and-a-half feet of clearance in front of all electrical disconnects and breaker panels. Employers may mark off a line on the floor or paint an area to deter employees from parking in front of the panels.
Ensure that breaker panels and electrical disconnects are labeled, with all breakers clearly labeled and updated since any electrical upgrades. These labels are crucial for two reasons: they should be legible and easy to read, and they help ensure that the correct breaker is used when turning off equipment. When locking and tagging equipment, choose the right breaker and electrical disconnect to ensure safety.
In summary, workplace inspections should focus on maintaining a safe and secure environment for electrical systems. Regular inspections and labeling of breaker panels and disconnects are essential for maintaining safety and preventing potential hazards.
How far should ground rods be from disconnect?
The National Electrical Code (NEC) 250. 53 (B) stipulates a minimum distance of 6 ft between grounding electrodes, as outlined in the National Electrical Code (NEC) 250. 56 indicates that spacing exceeding 6 feet enhances electrode efficiency. The recommended spacing is based on the Sphere of Influence theory, which suggests that electrodes should be spaced out two times (2X) the electrode length. For example, if 10-ft grounding rods are to be installed, they should be spaced at 20-ft intervals.
How high does an outdoor disconnect need to be?
Service disconnecting means must be placed at a height between 4 feet and 6 feet 7 inches above the floor of finish grade, except in freestanding or building-type switchgear. For tiered metering in multifamily dwellings, the heights can be varied within 2 feet 6 inches to 6 feet 6 inches. If approved, the service disconnect and meter disconnect may be the same in existing spaces or configurations with insufficient space for additional disconnects.
What is the code for disconnect location for hot tub?
It is imperative that a disconnect be in place for all ungrounded electrical wires, with the exception of those associated with lighting, to be situated a minimum of 5′ from the water’s edge, readily accessible, and within the line of sight of the hot tub or spa.
How far can a spa disconnect be from hot tub?
The distance between the disconnecting device and the point of connection must be at least 1. 5 meters, unless the point of connection is located behind a permanent barrier that prevents occupants from contacting the device. In the event that the switch is situated within three meters of the tub, it is imperative that a GFCI-protected device is situated at least three meters away.
Where to mount spa disconnect?
The National Electric Code, Article 680, requires hot tub installation to have at least one GFCI receptacle between six and 20 feet from the inside wall. Outdoor receptacles exposed to weather must have a weatherproof covering. These requirements are not exhaustive and should be followed by a licensed hot tub electrician. Due to the high risk of improper installation, it is advised not to attempt hot tub installation on your own.
How far away does a GFCI have to be from an outdoor hot tub?
The ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) requirements for outdoor hot tubs require at least one convenience receptacle located between 6 to 10 feet from the inside wall. This is crucial for safety and convenience. Once you’ve purchased a hot tub, you’ve got delivery and landscaping done, but the question remains: who will hook it up? Hydropool understands this is a common question that many people face.
Does a disconnect have to be within sight?
The rule 430. 102 requires each controller to have an individual disconnecting means that must be located in sight from the controller location. For motor circuits over 1, 000 volts, nominal, a controller disconnecting means lockable in accordance with 110. 25 may be allowed to be out of sight, provided the controller is marked with a warning label. This exception allows for remote (out of sight) disconnecting means for the controller, which must be provided, be lockable, and meet all conditions provided in Section 110. 25.
The provision for adding a lock must be installed and remain with the switch or circuit breaker, whether a lock is installed or not. A portable provision for adding a lock cannot be carried to the switch or circuit breaker and used as a locking means to meet NEC rules. Accessory features can be obtained from manufacturers to be field-installed on equipment and meet the requirement of remaining with the switch or circuit breaker, whether the lock is installed or not. These features are there for personnel to apply their lock and create an electrically safe work condition.
📹 Hot Tub GFCI Breaker Information How To DIY The Spa Guy
The Spa Guy is talking here about the ins and outs of wiring a GFCI Breaker. Please consult your local codes for actual wiring …
This is a really great article and also got some good info in the comments section which answered a few questions I had. I’m from the EastCoast (Canada) and happy you cleared up my question about using #8 with the 50amp spa pack. Having different codes in Canada and US is very confusing when looking online for help.
Awesome article, I’m in Alberta as well and this is super helpful. I’ve got the exact same setup, and I’m running my teck cable to a sauna heater that has no neutral. What do you suggest I do with my neutral? Put a wire nut on either end? Or should I put terminate the neutral on the spa kit end and just put a wire but on the sauna end? Thanks a ton for the article!
Great job guys. I really appreciated your article. 3 style points I would point out. 1) your camera angle did not provide a good view of the cable clamp in the main panel. 2) when you stripped the cable, there is a string inside the cable to help with stripping. This might be helpful to people that do not strip cables every day.
great job!!! looks clean and done right. As an electrician myself for the power company, I can relate to how clean work this is. I have to ask though, isn’t 8 AWG a little over kill ? or are they running a big hot tub with other electronics? I would think 10 AWG would be enough unless its a high current unit
Around 8:00 you said your neutral isn’t supposed to be touching ground ANYWHERE. That is false. They’re bonded at the main panel. Only in sub panels like this are they not allowed to be touching due to objectionable fault current path in parallel back to main panel/ transformer. I forgot what code exactly but its NEC 250.
Addressing some variations between the USA and Canada might be handy but nobody can be spot on for all of them. Then we have the UK (and others) who use 240 volt mains on everything so there is no 120 volt in their wiring. That’s another animal when it comes to code understanding. In my area (New England USA) we have some odd requirements on distance between the spa box and the tub, which vary from location to location. They all seem to point out that the “main disconnect” should be within sight of the tub and clearly marked but far enough away that you can’t reach it conveniently. (something like 12 ft) Same for having a service outlet nearby, that must also be GFIC. (recalling 12 – 15 ft) Most also call for #6 wire as a minimum for a 50 – 60 amp branch circuit out of the main panel (hence the remarks) but it quickly becomes obvious that most tubs only pull something under 40 amps, so doing the math with 80% loading on a branch circuit we’re talking extra capacity only for the motor surge, so a 50 amp circuit will fit the bill. Given some distance (certain installs) the #8 wire might not cut it for voltage drop, at least for the entire run, but certainly for the last leg. If you add a service outlet to the spa box you probably need the #6 wire that far.
Ok,OK, got it. (My wire has black / red / copper / blue) no white. So, from the panel red connect to the box right-side black left-side. from the tub connects to the breaker, going to match it red on the right-side black on the left-side, blue at the back on the breaker. I purchased 84 feet, from the tub to this GFI 10-feet so I spilt cutting the wire. This is why I have four wires red/black/copper and blue. (I’m stuck buddy, if the wire that is coming from the house panel is the same from the tub, to the GFI box where does the blue wire go??) Your article is great, would love to get your feed on this, please? Thanks ahead Sam..
Great article. In the process of wiring my Beachcomber tub in BC. I have a question about connecting to the tub itself. I’m running teck out from the spa box to the tub. Can you run the teck cable directly into the tubs control panel? All the wiring articles I’ve watched show them using a green insulated ground wire. Do I need to install some kind of extra junction box before going into the tub? Thanks.
Great article. There are others on the internet that could use your advise. I am looking to install a HVAC, 15A split system and I also wanted other capacities accessible outside, so I am looking at installing W0408ML1125-60 Siemens Spa/Hot Tub Outdoor Panel with 60A GFCI breaker, or perhaps 40A. One 15A circuit will be for a soft tub and is simply plugged into a regular receptacle and has its own CFCI built in to the cord. The other circuits I plan to run are simply for outdoor lighting, power tools etc. I think I would go with a larger amperage only because I may upgrade the HVAC later that would require additional amperage. Otherwise, I would run a maximum of 30 AMPS. Do I need a separate disconnect for the HVAC if the panel is near and the breaker can be flipped if needed?
Is this correct for Canada? 50A Breaker —> 8/3NMD90 —> 50A GFCI spa buddy/pack —-> 8/3 TECK 90 armored cable —> Hot tub (for 50A Hot tub) or 60A Breaker —>6/3NMD90 —> 60A GFCI spa buddy/pack —-> 6/3 TECK 90 armored cable —> Hot tub (for 60A Hot tub) just trying to keep it simple. Thanks this was a great article. I just found out that the hot tub I am getting can work on 50A or 60A. Is there an advantage to going with the more expensive 60A setup?
‘Make sure those are nice and tight’. No offense but your screwdriver is a bit small for tightening those lugs. Another thing I found out is that after ten years one hot lug in my GFCI wasn’t as tight as I thought it should be. Found this out when removing Hot tub and all wiring. Good article minus the small screwdriver. I learned about tight lugs from the power company; I moved my meter base from outside the wall to inside the wall during a remodel and I tightened the hell out of those lugs, then the power guy got out his breaker bar and said ‘let me help you out here’ and turned them another 1/4 turn.
I have a zinsco panel I put a 2pole box like yours at my pool pump and used a gfci breaker only difference is there’s only one bus bar for ground and Neutral and there’s no neutral goin going to the pump just two powers and ground so there’s no neutral on gfci breaker. I landed the neutral pigtail on the bus and the reset button on the breaker trips it like should. To my understanding the two powers going to pump are balanced and once one becomes unbalanced it will trip the breaker. It this setup correct 👍 or am I doing something wrong
I need some help!! I just bought a used spa and would like to buy everything for a electrician at my cost…. I have S-Class 240 – 4.0KW Gecko with 2 pumps, on the side of the heater it says input 120vac 60hz 15A, Input 240vac 60hz 48A. My question is.. What amp breaker do I need and assuming its 6/3 cable .. is there a type of 6/3 as I seen many with different volts..??
trace the box, cut the cladding, add J website, flush mount against house wrap and OSB/plywood. flex the website and bait inside edge with sealant. i’d use compression fittings to the back of the box – hole saw matching the hex nut ring. the rest of the electrical is on point. makes it look so easy. its not easy.
hey i have a question, im in Alberta, i have a 50amp spa pack that came with my hot tub (not delivered yet), the area where I want the cable to come through the wall is around 3 feet from ground level, is that too low? any higher and i have to open up my kitchen. i had a look in the code book and couldnt find anything about height off ground, but since im in Edmonton, the snow pack can get 3 feet some winters.
Great article. I am wondering though if/what the proper process is for running nmd90 from the interior of the house, and into a spa pack if it can’t be fed directly into the back of the spa pack. Basically can u run nmd90 8/3 thru the rim joist,into conduit, LB and again into conduit for about 2′ before it enters the spa pack? Or should you use a j box at rim joist location then Individual thhn wires up the 2′ from there where the wires enter the spa pack? Thanks!
You said if using a 6awg wire you need to use a bonding bushing? what changes from 8 to 6? if the box is metal and the armor is bonded to the water tight teck connector which is then bonded to the steel box wouldn’t it be the same deal regardless of wire size? or am I missing something? thanks for any info, and excellent article!
I’m in the US. I’m planning on running Schedule 80 pvc conduit for the outside run of my house. Any idea if it’s up to code to run the same wiring you did for the interior of the house outside as long as it’s in the conduit? I sadly have a longer outdoor run than you do and need conduit to the disconnect.