This guide outlines the process of repairing and replacing the bottom wood plate of a wood stud wall that has been rotted out by water or termites. It also covers repairing a wall severely rotted by a long-term leak, which came down the wall by the chimney due to the lack of a roof-cricket. The process involves filling in the replacement piece, screwing it to the stud next to it, and attaching all new framing to the new plate. The studs should be in contact with the top and bottom plate, and the new plate should be toe-nailed in with a minimum of 4-8d or 3-16d nails. If the old stud is completely rotten and has no replacement, the guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to repair and replace rotted exterior studs.
📹 How To Replace Rotted Stud Wall Bottom Plate
Here we show you how to repair and replace the bottom wood plate of a wood stud wall that has been rotted out by water or …
📹 Repairing ROTTED Framing in a Disaster Shower
Hey Gang! Welcome back to the channel. Today we tackle this rotten framing hidden behind this disaster shower, we think we did …
I enjoy seeing the way you two work together, it reminds me of working with both my father and my father in law. They’re gone now, but not forgotten. I learned so much from both of these men, especially that when you’re doing a job, for yourself or someone else, do it right! Enjoy your time together, and keep up the great work!
Yep, those pieces showing mold from the backside need to go, that Sheetrock is toast anyway. The sill plate under the shower valves I would have raised up to level or above existing before setting the pressure treated since I would not want it to be the lowest elevation in the bathroom. Pressure treated is forgiving to water for a while, but not indefinitely.
Note on mold. We had a bad mold problem and I went thru 4 gallons of Concrobium, over several applications, before realizing it’s simply not effective in porous materials (as the label states). The deeply embedded mold just grows back in a week. Concrobium works by crushing the molecules when drying, but only the molecules it comes into contact with and it has no affect on future growths (ie: the mold re-growing from within). So, after allowing to fully dry, and possibly after washing, sanding, plaining off the infected wood, follow it up with Zesser Mold Killing primer (available in 13oz spray cans). It is the only product that works on porous surfaces like 2x4s. Or even just skip the Concrobium step. I’ve only used the paint-on gallon version of the primer. It’s much thicker so may soak deeper & leave a thicker barrier, but I know for sure the Concrobium isn’t permanent. Also, if there’s some future leak, it’ll protect the wood somewhat. I’ve taken to applying a coat to all the studs before drywalling. It’s an extra “theoretically unnecessary” step, but should there be another leak, it’ll somewhat mitigate against stud damage and mold.
I know this is coming late, but I’m surprised how casually you handled the black mold. BEFORE replacing the stud patches, you should have used a mold killer spray to kill the mold… Then let dry completely… And then vacuum with a HEPA unit… I’d do the entire bathroom since you disturbed the mold. As for mold on the drywall goes, it should have been removed completely and replaced. Yes, a bigger job, but easily explained to the homeowner. Remember, take the attitude, “I can see it from my house”, even if it isn’t. Otherwise, great articles showing all the details and problems that can arise.
I’m curious what you think about epoxy type wood hardeners. I used one once and it poured on extremely thin and soaked into some dry rotted wood. I’m wondering if something like that would have any benefits to the small amounts of rot that was left in this area. My thinking is that the epoxy would soak in and encapsulate any mold and rot. It would also harden the soft punky wood even though it wouldn’t be necessary for strength because of the additional studs. Or would that just a waste of money?
Great work! As an FYI, the mold will cross contaminate other spaces through the HVAC ductwork and any other opening. 90% of the time the homeowner won’t have a clue, until a kid starts wheezing soon after demolition or the homeowner smells something. 90% of those won’t do anything about it, BUT there’s ALWAYS that ONE owner who will KILL your business!! Another point is that any drywall that has mold has to come out. Can’t spray bleach or anything else on it because it just makes things worse! Call a pro!
I’m redoing a bad shower myself as we speak. My master shower looked about like this one so I can’t tell you how grateful I am for your articles. I’m a DIYer and this is my first shower to completely redo. I feel better prepared perusal your excellent articles. I do have one question (who am I kidding-I have a million questions- lol) but here’s this question. When framing up areas of 2×4’s that I’ve cut out, due to rot, can I screw the new boards back into place instead of using a framing gun? I noticed you used a framing gun, was that just for your ease or is there a reason? Thank you so much. Keep up the great work and articles!
I’m just a DIY’er but I do enjoy your YouTube episodes. One suggestion. Would it be possible, when you make your articles, that you name them in some consecutive order for instance as an example: Mother-in-Law’s rebuild, episode 1, Mother-in-Law’s episode 2. You get the idea. I would like to follow a build from start to finish but it’s too hard to find subsequent episodes of a project and I know I’m missing a lot.
Dr pepper drywall patch is special order. More comon is bush. Bud, and pbr as well as Miller patch boards. With occasionally a miclob or crona and maybe a local kraft brand or 2. Its boluvard here and the patch material is 3 ply it will last longer ship futhere and more redly recyclable Hey it was late I was drunk and this shit works so use it. It is however on the wrong side of the wall. You take the cardboard fold in 2 with a string in the center place it in the hole and let it unfold inside the wall then tape the string on the outside of the wall. This helps keep your compound in place. My dad taught me this trick and he installed lath and plaster walls some 65 70 years ago he also owned a construction company and did stucco When he was 74 years old he worked on a bank 2 younger guys did one side he did the other side, he did everything on his side and came back to there to help them finish the scratch coat this took sevral days. But the old man made 2,28 year olds look stupid and slow. So if my dad said this works with his background in building its not a problem smart ass. It is what it is you use what you have, if you don’t have scrap sheetrock laying around then you do what you have to. Yes you could screw door shims onto the backsides go in the attic and glue on sheetrock or plywood As long as its as strong as the wall and looks good it really dosnt matter how you did it. You can only see the finished job. Any car dealer will tell you they don’t wash or wax the top of a van why would they you cant see it.
I just want to point out to you guys. That a rotten beam doesnt not mean it isnt still carrying load. We have a Pole barn built 100 years ago. using 6×6 beams to support the massive body of the barn. Trust me this barn is easily 3-4k sqft.. the rear beams are in good shape, perfect actually, but 3-4 of the front ones have termit dmg and rot from being exposed to rain water from the ground it is near. They do thankfully go on cinter blocks or the concrete slab for support.. so they arent in the ground itself. However the beams are so bad in sections that the 6×6 is completetly gone and only 1 inch is left touching the blocks… There is no way the load from a roof, and 5×5 beams are being trasfered to another location. Going by what you said in this article my barn should have the load transfered somewhere else.. when in fact the main upper beams all sit on the rotten 6×6’s… Im amazed that the barn is still staning.. Im not sure what to do until i can replace the beams.. I am thinking of using 2×6 pressured treated wood and “sheething” the 6×6’s this way when the main beams do collapse it has a sheeth for the load to transfer too and it might be ok.. This is temp until i can get a company out here to replace the beams
I sure like that you show it like it is, and give your honest opinions of what it will take to do it !!!!! No fluff or sugar coated truth, just telling it like it is !!!!! Showing it as it goes along, and what you should do to do a good job. And the tips and tricks are greatly appreciated !!!! You are the kind of guy I would hire and not worry about if you are cutting corners or short cutting to increase YOUR profit !!!! I see always top notch work and loving care on the installations !!!! Great work, can’t wait for the next job article !!!!!!!!
I dumped all my broken Dewalt tools. I am 90% Makita. Dewalt are really black and decker. The repair shop for tools asked me pros don’t use Dewalt. He told me to go to the back of the shop where repairs are done and to look at what tools were being repaired. It was nothing buy yellow tools. He ask did you see any blue green tools??? I said no. He urge me to buy Makita and so I did. I was this father and son team in Los Angeles that the building inspector said was refurbishing complete remodel to a 1908 house. I drew the plans and my son did the Autocad. We were done after 2.5 years with 10 permits to sign and that would be our final. The head inspector ask me how I tackled such a huge job. We did the plumbing and all the electrical that included the 2″ pipe to the roof with weather head. Build a wooden stairs first time, did the drywall finish, built 3 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, hook up subpanel and wire the entire 1908 house that had a special permit to be restored to Historical standards. So I had to frame windows with old style sill plus house wrap shear wall with structural plywood tyvek house wrap and install all the windows and door plus 52 anchor bracket with 2 foot holes with running thread while a paid inspector watch me install epoxy on each bolt I was going to have the Hardie siding installed but later decided to do myself and it came out near perfect to the eye. We only farmed out the insulation and new 4 inch pipe to the street. I did all the work and replaced the old redwood framing to fir.
You need to have that professionally mold remediated. I have that same problem except mine is 10 times worse than that. Leaving any of that moldy wood is a danger to the homeowner. Looks like the sheathing is also molding. I have not finished the whole article yet. I’m having mine professionally done. Good thing I’ve got good insurance. Because of water damage, insurance should cover that. I reserve the right to edit this in the future.
I wish my shower walls had looked that good! We ran into a live infestation and rotten/eaten studs quite a few feet up. The Sheetrock paper was eaten as was the paper backing on the fiberglass insulation. It was horrible! Like the one in the article, it included an outside, corner wall on the first floor. We had to sister/replace 10-12 studs.
Have to say I like perusal the articles you are doing. Paul you come across as a really likeable man. Someone who knows what he is doing and takes pride in your work. You are a dying breed!! Hopefully your son will appreciate what you are teaching him…You will never be out of work if you do a good job and if you are good with your hands. From one tradesman to another keep up the good work…..
Some years ago, I fixed my Master bathroom by myself but I took too many times to do it. When I removed the step in the bathroom, there were two pieces of 2×4 terribly damaged which looked like dark toasted it. The damaged cause by the slide doors leaked at the bottom rails. When I remodeled the new bathroom I did not want to install the slide door.
Did you have Odor In this Bathroom? I got a Very Bad Odor Coming from Behind My Bathroom Drywalls. the 2x4s in Mine arent As rooted as Yours. However, it Smells Terribly Bad. Plus, They have Black Dried Dusty Looking Stuff (Most Likely Mold) On there. Im Looking to Do this to Hopefully Solve this Big Problem for Me.
I remolded my c. 1959 bathroom and added a new shower where the tub was. I also found problems with stud rot, mold and mildew. Like here, I replaced all wood that was rotten, cut short a few stud where they were bad at the sill plate. In my case, and I did this in the winter, I also had to remove and replace some sheeting because I removed the bathroom window. But, I then abated the mold and mildew. Killed it, then sealed it. To be sure, I went the extra step of painting the stud work with a mold resistant paint. Of course, new mold and mildew is not a problem when properly installing the shower and its plumbing.
Hey StudPack! I’m buying a home, one week left in escrow. I’m an automotive tech, so I’m not scared of a little work. It has roof leaks, master shower leaks, there’s some bubbling drywall in master bedroom and some bad ground drainage. Worried about how bad the studs are gonna be rotted, but we can’t really say no because the house is in such a great area. This article helps, if you have any other pointers or articles to point me to to help with the knowledge of correct framing fixes and such, lemme know!
May I ask what licenses you have to be able to do all of the plumbing and electric yourself? Is it a certain kind of general contractors license for your state or is it a few specialty sub contractors licenses? And if it’s the later, may I ask how you accumulated all the time for the requirements for the trade exam? I’m a young guy in the commercial steel stud side of framing trying to get a residential remodeling company going, just trying to learn as much as possible and just kind of having a hell of a time, and not a lot of good people to ask, and y’all seem to be killing it and super knowledgeable so I figured worth a shot to ask. Thanks! Love the articles!
Fantastic work! I’m just starting what is a nearly identical bathroom remodel, so this is very informative. The detailed information in your articles is superb! First class! I also get a kick out of how you combine power tools and rock music. Very much appreciate your hard work, and passing on SO much expertise. Liked & subbed!!
So you went from 20k to 70k in 4 months! Not bad! Keep up the good work, I know I’m enjoying the ride along 😀 Just a note for those that got the rot, there’s a couple of low viscosity epoxy products you can get. You get the rot outa there and open up the pores, maybe drill some fine holes, dam it up to shape and pour. Voila.
I see this is an old article but I do hope that I can get a reply. My bathroom subfloor specifically around the bathtub area is rotted so I can only imagine what it looks like underneath the tub. Also the 2×6 that the stud sit on for the wall is rotted as well. I need to take the bathtub out so I can see the rest of floor as well as see how much of the 2×6 is rotted. I know I need to replace the subfloor but for the 2×6 how do I replace the rotted portion without risking losing structural support for the studs? I demoed my bathroom floor thinking it would be an easy fix but once I saw the rot a series of curse words flew out my mouth unfortunately. I have demoed and tile two other bathroom in my parents home and it turned out beautiful but dealing with rot, structural support, and also checking to see how much of the wood is rotted is new to me. Come on studpack, give me some advice.
I’m in the middle of a similar job myself and agree with most of your methods here. I don’t know if I missed something but I think you should’ve spent a few moments talking about mold remediation. Although I’ve treated all exposed obvious moldy areas, one that stymies me is the moldy and decaying Sheetrock that is behind the studs in an area that isn’t accessible, between the studs and a brick wall. I’m considering breaking it out and wedging cement board in that space or using hardening foam. Have you ever used those in this type of situation?
I love seeing your son’s enthusiasm for learning these skills. He may decide not to do these things as a forever career, but he will have obtained some invaluable expertise. Y’all work well together and the familial bond is a positive rather than a problem. Great to see. My 24 yr old son is a computer scientist and I’m a lifelong, third-generation, Housing/Real Estate guy.
Love your articles, and I look forward to each new one. It’s amazing to compare this old one with your latest grouping, just to see how you two have evolved over the last couple of years. A lot looser and more interaction with Jordan. In this article Jordan’s personality is, I guess, being developed to what it is now. Keep them coming!
That copper looks like trouble coming please get a full license plumper to look at it. Electrologist grounding through cheep copper and it will start weeping water. Go by new construction and find the rough in plumper and ask him. There are hundred of thousands of homes that this low quality copper was used. You guys to good work.
Thank you for showing how to do things right. I just demolished a bathroom from the previous owner who used porous marble everywhere and no waterproofing whatsoever on the shower curb and drywall. It was a moldy disaster leaking water all through the basement. All the framing was rotted 2×2 toothpicks. It truly boggles the mind. I am reframing like you demonstrated and installing a full Kerdi system. No more toxic bathroom.
Takeaway #1 of the whole series: Don’t let unqualified knuckleheads build a shower! A note on removing studs or portions of studs. If the outside wall is stucco, then removing them without damaging the stucco is difficult at best, but it also leaves the stucco wire mesh unsecured and prone to future cracking and diminished support strength. Reattaching old mesh to the new studs is impossible. Better to just shore them up with new sister studs as much as possible. Also I’d use greenboard, not regular drywall, in a bathroom.
I watch these articles a lot. These guys are super conscientious and thoughtful. But at the end of the day these projects there isn’t much to save. Rip it out and rebuild it new. Homeowners think they are saving money keeping things, but balance that for time and labor and the value of keeping things intact goes way down. There is a lot of shit houses out there. This looks like one of them to me.
As a handyman you should know better to remove all the dry rot, your just putting a band aide over the existing dry rot, Why ? and also after replacing all wall studs, a fungicide treatment should be used to the new and existing framing since it’s in a bathroom area. Big mistake for not removing all the dry rot shame of yourself.