To repair drywall cracks in a manufactured home, follow these steps:
- Widden the crack with a utility knife and brush away dust.
- Fill the widened crack with lightweight spackle using a putty knife. Apply a thin coat of spackle over the entire area, smooth it with a putty knife, and allow it to dry for 15 to 30 minutes.
- Sand the area smooth, brush away any debris, and touch up the paint.
- Replacing the wall panel of a manufactured home is a complex process that requires careful inspection, use of thick drywall panels, ridding the home from structural problems, and identifying leaks and sealing them immediately.
To repair smaller holes in mobile home drywall paneling, apply fiberglass tape and apply two to three coats of drywall compound. Sand between coats.
For larger damaged areas, use a drywall patch or piece of drywall to create a stable foundation. Patch and sand down any patched areas, then cover with quality primer followed by a good quality latex paint like Sherwin Williams.
To make minor repairs in the drywall of your manufactured home, simply patch a couple of holes and embed nails that have been damaged. This guide provides expert tips on installation, types of drywall, and how to repair large and small damage holes on mobile home walls.
📹 Mobile Home Wall Removal in 2022. Smoothing out the wall strips
Here’s how I do MOBILE HOME WALL REMOVAL to get rid of the strips, as a 36 Yr Drywall Contractor. Chapters are lower in the …
What are the walls made of in a manufactured home?
Manufactured homes often use materials like drywall and vinyl-covered wallboard for their walls. Drywall is the most common type, offering more design options and higher insulation value. However, vinyl paneling is easier to clean as it does not absorb liquids as easily. Minor repairs to drywall in manufactured homes can be done by patching holes, embedding popped nails, and filling small cavities. It is important to note that you will likely need to touch the paint in any area of drywall that needs to be fixed. To fix smaller holes in drywall, follow these steps:
- Remove the nails from the drywall.
- Insert the nails into the drywall.
- Fill the small cavities with the filler.
- Apply the filler to the drywall.
- Allow the filler to dry completely.
How thick are the walls in a manufactured home?
Manufactured home wallboards range from 5/16″ to ½”, with the majority of new Clayton homes using 3/8″ thickness. The most popular measurement for Paper On Gypsum (POG) wallboards is now 3/8″. Finished drywall wallboards are available in 3/8″ or ½” options in Clayton manufactured homes built at home building facilities. Wall insulation is another important factor in manufactured home walls, with new Clayton Built® homes improving quality over the last 15 years.
Can you put drywall up in a manufactured home?
Mobile homes are designed to be lightweight, but they still have wooden studs and manufacturers often use 1/4-inch paneling to cover the framing. The wall studs are spaced to support 4-by-8 panels, so mobile home drywall comes in 8ft by 4ft sheets. Choose the thinnest drywall sheets, 3/8-inch, which are lighter than 1/2-inch and easier to handle. Measure the area needed and estimate the number of sheets needed, adding a percentage for waste. Most supply stores will deliver the sheets due to their size and weight.
To install the drywall, remove all outlet and wall switch covers, molding, baseboards, wall panel strips, and any ceiling-to-wall strips. If working on one room at a time, cut the power in that room by turning off the appropriate breaker, as removing the wall panels will expose the electrical wires and require repositioning the electrical boxes to be flush with the new drywall surface.
How to repair holes in mobile home walls?
To create a wall paneling, cut a solid shape from a hole in your wall and use a patch kit with mesh and spackling. Cut the mesh larger than your shape and place it inside the hole. Cut the same shape from the paneling found elsewhere. After the mesh and spackling dry, fit it to the hole with the same spackling on the back. Carefully push it through without pushing too hard. Once dry, spackle and sand the edges and paint accordingly. This process can be done by scrolling through the thread and clicking “Attach comment to this post”.
What type of drywall is used in mobile homes?
Vinyl-Over-Gypsum (VOG) is a common type of wall used in manufactured homes, coated in vinyl wrap. This is a different treatment of drywall compared to taped, floated, textured, and painted drywall. VOG is commonly associated with mobile homes and comes in 3/8″ or ½” thick thickness. Each factory offers a variety of vinyl colors and design options, including shiplap, wood, red brick, and white-wash brick.
Choosing a VOG wall offers several benefits, including cost-effectiveness, durability, easy maintenance, and easy cleaning. Unlike tape-and-textured walls, VOG walls can be easily cleaned and wiped down, ensuring they stay looking new for a long period. VOG wall floor plans can be found in the New Moon and Select series. A housing specialist can help you choose the right VOG wall for your new home.
Will drywall crack in a mobile home?
After a home is installed and the homeowner moves in, it may experience settling, which can cause the home to become unlevel over time. This settling can lead to minor drywall cracks and is usually due to soil conditions and footings supporting the home’s weight. Homes installed on a permanent foundation are less likely to be affected. Other signs of settling include unfavorable door and window openings. The extent of settling typically occurs within a few months after assuming occupancy.
How to replace a mobile home wallboard?
This blog discusses the process of replacing manufactured home wall panels. It covers seven steps: gathering necessary materials, removing the old panel, measuring and cutting the new panel, installing the new panel, fastening the panel to the studs, applying joint compound, and painting the panel. It also highlights four questions to consider before buying a home:
- What is the purpose of the wall panel?
- How does the panel fit into the existing structure?
- What is the cost of the panel?
- How can I ensure the panel is secure and long-lasting?
- What is the warranty on the panel?
- How can I ensure the panel is installed correctly?
- How can I ensure the panel is painted and protected from damage?
How to replace mobile home wall panels?
This blog discusses the process of replacing manufactured home wall panels. It covers seven steps: gathering necessary materials, removing the old panel, measuring and cutting the new panel, installing the new panel, fastening the panel to the studs, applying joint compound, and painting the panel. It also highlights four questions to consider before buying a home:
- What is the purpose of the wall panel?
- How does the panel fit into the existing structure?
- What is the cost of the panel?
- How can I ensure the panel is secure and long-lasting?
- What is the warranty on the panel?
- How can I ensure the panel is installed correctly?
- How can I ensure the panel is painted and protected from damage?
How to fix holes in drywall cheaply?
In order to repair minor dents and dings, it is first necessary to remove any loose debris. The area should then be covered with a fast-drying spackle, which should be left to dry for a period of 24 hours. Once dry, the surface should be sanded until it is smooth.
Can you change the walls in a manufactured home?
MHVillage, Inc., a manufacturer of manufactured homes, has a privacy policy that outlines how it treats personal information collected and received, including details about past use of products and services. This information is specific to the individual and is not publicly available. MHVillage collects personal information when users register on its websites, use its products or services, or visit its websites or partner pages.
The company may combine this information with information obtained from business partners or other sources. The policy does not apply to practices of companies that MHVillage does not own or control, nor to individuals it does not employ or manage.
Can cracked drywall be repaired?
To repair a cracked concrete surface, use a putty knife to spread a thin layer of patching material and let it dry. Smooth the material 1″-2″ beyond the repaired area to create an even surface. Use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the patched area. To properly prep uncoated and previously coated concrete surfaces, use a product like the 9 in. x 1/4 in. Polyester Adhesive Roller Cover, available in-store at Home Depot, which has a hard texture for applying adhesives and stippling.
📹 How to Remove and Mud Over Wall Strips | Budget Mobile Home Remodel #24
**SUPPORT** Your support, whether viewing our videos or visiting the links below, directly supports our family and is greatly …
This is PERFECT. I live in a manufactured home with taped & textured walls; love it! However, my last manufactured home had the strips, and I hated them. I’m planning on moving after I retire, and if I find a manufactured home, that is in the right location, with the right amount of room at the right price–but it has the strips on the walls–now I know how I can get rid of them. Thank you!
This article makes me feel like I can actually do this. I hate the walls in our home. The strips come off so easily and looks terrible. Also, I’d like to paint the walls because everything is brown in here. Thank you for being so detailed. I think I’m going to try this next year to make our mobile home feel like a home home.
I have drywalled many maufactured homes. Here are a few hints from my experiences. Corners ceiling to wall joints and wall to wall joints If the vinyl wall corner joints are tight I prefer to caulk the corners with good painters caulk. Quick and smooth. If the corners gaps are large then paper tape them. If the wall to ceiling joints are large. I have flat taped the wall gap with hot mud and paper tape. only on the wall not onto into the popcorn ceiling, let it dry then caulked the corners tight into the popcorn or heavy texture. On flat joints Test your mud you are using for good adhesive action. After “setting” in all nails, staples, and screws. I prefer to paint walls with kills or a good primer then start your mudding. I have not had any adhesion problems then. On texturing I prefer to orange peal texture eather heavy or lighter. if you try to knock down on these walls the unlevel walls will give inconsistent look. If you are wanting a more knock down look then loosen up the texture mud so it hits and flattens more.
I’ve been perusal your articles for about a month now, I started perusal because I wanted to learn how to get rid of them strips in my double wide. I like perusal you because you take the time to explain different things. I have watched a lot of other websites and their ether to fast or really don’t know anymore then I do about it. After perusal you for a few weeks I finally started taking the strips off, my home is an older double wide, when you hear people say that mobile homes are pieced together, mine is sure pieced together! Just in my small dining room there was 15 strips, with some of them hiding big gaps. So far I have applied all my tape and hot mud and a little sanding, I did go over some of them again with a thin coat of hot mud because the tap was still showing. I am getting better with handling the 6′ and 12” knife, I think the biggest thing that I had trouble with was learning how to feather the edges, I think that’s why I could see the tape in the middle, when I would try to feather I would take off some of the middle. I am kind of proud of myself, I have now gotten to were my mudding is smooth and I’m able to feather now to. I’m in no hurry, so I’m taking my time. Thanks for being a great teacher, I look forward to perusal more articles.
This is fantastic. My wife and I are in the process of purchasing a modular home in a retirement park. I’ve got a little bit of a building background, but I had no idea that you could tape and texture over the joints in a modular home. I hate the modular home look. This is incredibly helpful. I plan on going through and trying to get rid of the modular home look. Thanks for the article. I just subscribed to your website.
I’m buying a modular (can’t afford a stick home) and I despise those wall strips. Great advice on how to blend the joints. You make it look easy; but I am such a novice and perfectionist all in one that I would get pretty aggravated, AND make a gigantic mess. It’s nice to see guys like you that have done this type of work for decades and know all the tricks. I am 62 and have ruined my back building nuclear submarines, so I may just get a professional down the road to do it. I hope he has half the skill that you do. Thanks for the great article!
I’ve seen that vinyl-wrapped drywall stuff in office buildings; it was usually tongue&groove jointed to the next panel using a steel stud as a biscuit. I’d be inclined to just fill the groove and fastener holes with regular mud using one minimal coat, then cover the whole thing up with flat wall-covering (no texture), using that slightly gummy cement they sell in paint stores. If the wall covering is of decent quality, it could be painted when it gets a little rough and treated like drywall from there on. The seams might need a little mudding (using mesh tape if the seams are a bit curly) at that point, but not much. PS: I’ve never had a problem using mesh tape with pre-mixed mud. It has almost never cracked and has always held together well. The only reason I can see for avoiding that combination is that the shrinkage might reveal the mesh pattern more than hot mud would, but the final coat has always hidden it well enough for me.
This really was beyond helpful ! We’re doing alot of remodeling but don’t exactly have alot of experience doing anything like this and we just happened to Google how to do this and your article popped up and it was exactly what we were looking for ! We have a mobile home and are trying to remove these exact little strips off our walls but our contractor said it would take like 3-4 weeks just to take them off and do this exactly and that’s alot of money when your paying them by the day, unfortunately just alittle over our budget right now so we decided we would try and do it our selves but have never done any mudding or anything like this so your article has been a complete blessing for us 😊 Your articles are great and so helpful, We just subscribed and can’t wait to watch more of your articles that I know will teach us so much more ! Your awesome 😇 Thanks again, Sincerely his wife lol 💙
My experience with mud on vinyl is you have to sand the sheen off of the vinyl before mudding. Also, you should be using PVA primer (poly vinyl acetate primer) to seal and harden mud (1st husband was a union painter). Using regular primer will soak into the mud, causing it to eventually flake off of the wall.
I did my double wide however the drywall was glued to the studs with an average 1/2″ gap between the panels, the rock was covered with a vinyl type wrap, something I did was put a urethane sealant joint in the gap and apply primer to the walls before tape & mud, I did my walk texture by hand with a stipple brush and broad knife, the sealant joint will prevent future cracking in your tape joint, the finished product looks high end good, manufactured homes are really built cheap so if you scrape and slick your ceilings and replace the trim with wood and upgrade most everything you can really have something nice, by the way I rode out hurricane Ivan in my manufactured home one mile from the Gulf of Mexico in Perdido Key and came out better than most folks
I thought I was the only one whose Manufactured Home was held together with a million staples per square inch. I stare at those dang wooden strips every day and hate them. And where there are none, it looks like somebody tried (and failed) to cover the seams with tape and mud, and now they’re all cracked. Your advice makes so much sense to a novice like me. Thank you, thank you!
You are a natural teacher and amazing demonstrator!! Where were you 10 years ago when I was tearing apart my manufactured home?! 😂 I did all the “donts” but now I know exactly what caused the shiny spots, lumpy walls, and vertical cracks. I’m ready to take another stab at it with the proper tools and I’m feeling inspired. Thank you!
Awesome how-to article. I love your explanations for why we should do what you’re telling us to do, because that helps me remember to do those things later when I’m working on it. Having done some of this the wrong ways in the past, I’m so glad I found this before I tackle the walls in my new home. Thank you!
Corvette,my brother who just lost his wife to Alzheimer’s moved into trailer and we have been helping him get it up to living standards.One of the things he doesn’t like are those strips joing the panels together,this giveaway would be perfect . Even if he doesn’t win it was a pleasure to view your informative article. thank you
i learned a lot of this sort of thing doing body work on my cars over the years..using bondo is basically the same thing…get it smooth feathering and so on. it helped me on my drywall repairs on my home..great article. we just bought a 200 singlewide that has those trim pieces and i want to remove them and smooth the walls. this helps. have a great day sir
Not sure why this came up in my YouTube feed but it’s something I always wondered about! I hate those mobile home looking walls. There’s so much value in having a skilled person like you to do the job rather than diy. You know exactly what to do and how to do it. I’d love to hire you when we finally build our house! I’m definitely saving this article for later though.
Wow! I did this myself about 2.5 years ago to a single wide I was converting to a sewing room. I am preparing to do the same thing to my doublewide as most of these pieces are breaking or falling off anyway. The only thing I didn’t know to do was re-screw the panel down if it moves. I feel so smart. Thanks
My dad passed away in October of 2020.He did drywall all his life.This brought back some good memories of going out on the jobs with him.Thank you so much for this article.I also live in a double wide trailor.I will save this article for reference when we decide to redo our walls.I also subscribed to your site.
Thanks for the great article instruction on fixing these seams. A long time ago, I tried to help a friend “re-do” the walls in her living room…little did I realize I had no clue what I was doing. She was even more clueless! (At least I knew where to find a bucket of “joint compound” at Lowe’s). To say it was a terrible job would be a compliment! It was, however, a learning experience and since then I’ve improved. I continue to tackle jobs that I shouldn’t 🤷♀️ but I’m still enjoying learning. (Wish I had heard you say that about the 20 minute mud a while back… no worries though.. I learned to move up to 45 and then 90 minute all by myself😁!!). Thank you, Gin
Call me weird but I was just wondering has anybody ever just tried taking the wall down and flipping it I seriously doubt that this vinyl is on the other side I know you would have to recut for the outlets but at the same time all you did was flipping over and you can probably patch it now that it’s the wrong side or will that affect the installation
It’s hard to give you advice because you’re such a professional but if I could, I would say just before you start mudding, wipe the walls down with acetone. That’ll remove any greasy residue that may prevent the mud from sticking also if the home was a smoker’s home it’ll remove the nicotine tar from the wall.
Hey Guy, Thanks for sharing this article, I was always wandering how to get rid of that Mobile wall look lol, honestly I had that same idea of doing this with spackle puddy, but I thought in my mind that would eventually crack and flake off, I guess I was wrong and this article confirms that…! thank you I will do this to my walls too it looks so much better without those Mobile home walls strips. From your new friends in Lima Peru George & Carmen
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Great article! I’m beginning to convince myself that we can actually spruce up the place ourselves! It’s difficult to find decent professionals as our area is still recovering from the last hurricane. With us both being retired teachers, our pockets aren’t overflowing. Do you have a article about repairing tears and holes in the papered walls of the mobile home? I’ll be attempting to paint a bathroom over the vinyl that the previous owner screwed multiple towel holders into the wall without the benefit of a stud, so there are multiple holes in the walls with some white gypsum exposure and lots of brown paper. Do you have any recommendations for more articles to watch before I begin?
I was told the trim pieces are for the trailer to flex since it’s essentially a big rectangle that’s going to expand and contract with the heat/cold especially on the older models of trailers (anything before 1997) where they put sheet metal over wood frame without any adhesive. Same concept when you put siding up or hardwood down you leave a little gap. Will this lead to cracking after a few seasons? I live in Ohio where the winters are kinda rough.
Year’s ago I knocked in the staples and nails, and screwed down any loose spots in the drywall of the mobile home I lived in, since the joints where so inconsistent, I filled them and screw dimples with automotive bondo, LOT’S of hardener, took down any high spots, then covered with mud, sanded till I was pleased, the gaps had been no where near as nice as I had just seen in this article, tight on bottom 3/8’s on the top, and vice versa, can’t give an update on how well it held up, as I know longer live there, sure wish that product existed when I did my mobile home, the bondo fumes are MISERABLE!!!
Be sure to check the walls for “blistering” before you add “any mud” or any other material that has water in it, as it will blister. Please note. Many times you may not “see” a blister on the wall prior to adding any coat of liquid, or mud. I have been in the drywall industry for over 30 years and have experience with manufactured homes as well as residential, and commercial buildings. This guy seems extreamly knowledgeable, and i am NOT here to be critical of his work. Just remember that the material used in manufactured homes, especially the walls, are mass produced in a factory and can have many imperfections that are not seen with the naked eye. When you add any material with any liquid in it. It could bring out any imperfections. Although i am not familiar with this gentlemen. I am sure he has a article of how to fix ” blisters” on a wall or ceiling. Great article sir.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My husband and I just bought our first house and I am attempting to get rid of all these strips in our bedroom while he is completely remodeling our bathroom! I definitely thought it would be easier and jumped in head first. I spent 5 hours pulling nails and staples when I should have just hammered them in! I also bought the all purpose for all the coats. Is that okay?
Thank you again. I’m going to get a Dimpler. Oh p.s. I haven’t hung anything up because I’m so afraid of these thin walls in I have a hanging wall hutch and a heavy shelf along with other things I want to know what is best in your opinion to use to hang securely these heavy things without fear of them coming off the walle in tearing the wall down/pulling the wall down or bowing it from the weight. ?
Gosh darn it man, you are one GOOD TEACHER! I’m totally subbing to your website b/c I seriously think you will be my new drywall guru. I know I sound like I’m being facetious but I’m truly not, I MEAN IT! I can’t tell you HOW MANY “tutorial” articles I have watched about this but you are the FIRST to go step-by-step with additional really good tips. Like the protruding nail, I would have thought just running my finger down the wall would have done the trick, but seriously, how bloody and sore would I be at the end of 1,000 + square feet of home, right? Just brilliant, thank you! And OMG, the drywall mixing in the pan using powder instead of the mud that ALWAYS dries out too much, especially with a novice like myself and doing smaller batches with a beater…I mean, again, BRILLIANT!! WOW, I LOVE this idea! My husband (God rest his soul) and I remodelled out entire 3000 sqft. house and I got so sick and tired of trying to get the mud smooth I ended up just laying a “crosshatch” texture all over the walls and called it a day! WHERE WERE YOU THEN, EH??? Anyway, I’m off to go see what else you have to learn and thanks again! God bless you and yours!
You certainly are a man who knows what he’s doing. I wish I’d have found you 10 years ago. I refinished all of my walls and they turned out nice but could have been better. If you look closely you can see the texture difference when the lighting is right. Thanks for the great advice! I hope to never do this again. LOL
I have done a couple of rooms with the vinyl coated sheetrock. One thing I have done is cover the entire wall with a very thin coat of General Purpose premixed mud to make the vinyl smooth. I finish coat with “”Paint + Primer” all in one. Takes a couple of coats to cover darker vinyl but I have not had a problem with paint peeling or flaking off.
Great articles buddy… I’ve learned alot from perusal your articles.. I’m a contractor in maine, we do alot of remodels with drywall repairs.. I’ve gotten alot better with my mudding and taping from perusal your vidoes.. lots of great tips and advice.. thank you.. keep it up!! Maine made custom builders.. maine
Thanks for the information! We have a modular that we are getting ready to redo 3 rooms. The strips of trim every 4 feet are very annoying. I am so happy I now know how the walls can be fixed before painting, and make it look good. I am going to look through your other articles. I have a fireplace I need to remove the stucco from! Thanks!!
I am currently trying to finish approximately 30′ of seems in my bathroom. We have a modular home so this vid is very helpful. However I have already taped and mudded before I saw this. I have been using a a wet cloth to wet sand. In some places I can still see the tape, so I will try your method of feathering. Thank you so much. This is the 4th different article of your I have watched.
You sir,are a genius.You have probably saved thousands of heads of hair being torn out by frustrated diy ers.I found your website a wall too late, unfortunately,and am seriously considering re-doing my frankendrywall monstrosity.I bet your brownies are amazing.Thankyou sir.Sincerely, from just another recently bald guy.
My Bride and I have lived in our Manufactured Home for over 30 years and, finally, starting to do some remodeling. We’ve ripped the carpet out and installed vinyl plank flooring but we’ve always wanted to get rid of the batten strips. I’ve watched tons of articles but NONE have been as helpful as yours. I’m glad I found your website and now feel much better about tackling those hideous strips. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
I have been a fixer upper on just about every project a house could give me. We recently bought a 3/2 Manufactured Home 15 minutes away from Perdido Key Florida. I have learned many of the light to middle skills required on my own prior to youtube. Most of those skills came with several failures before actually “getting it right”. In the last 15 years, youtube has assisted me tremendously on any question I ever had. But I must say, you have been the best teacher of drywall I have ever seen. Your skills and knowledge are amazing. You not only show how to do it but also how not to do it! I am so sorry that you are not feeling 100%. I wish I had subscribed years ago! Thank you for everything you do. I truly appreciate your assistance with my projects! – Scott
Great teaching articles thanks for all the good advise. We live in a great age where we can learn trade secrets that used to take a lifetime of experience to gain. I love all the little tips like the angle to hold knife and what mud sticks the best and how to paint to make repairs invisible. This is very valuable information. I’ve done it wrong for years because had no one to teach me the correct methods. Appreciate all your articles. It used to be to get 30 years experience you had to spend 30 years doing it, but pros like you with good teaching skills have changed the world for the better. Thanks
Has anyone done this that has to relevel their manufactured home every year or two? We live in the side of a mountain so we have to relevel ours almost yearly. My husband says if we were to do this we would see the cracks down these strips if the house shifted even a little. Does anyone know if this is true or if this will still work in this situation?
I am a woman but I have done this, my dad grew up during the depression and was a workaholic, he was a mechanic by trade but could do carpentry, plumbing and electrical, he even taught himself to upholster furniture and car seats, needless to say the only way I got to spend time with him was perusal or helping him work at home and I learned so much, a lot of common sense stuff as well. I did this and did the same thing, it just took me longer, it’s better to take your time and get it right but it is well worth it, I hate those strips on the wall, after you fill in the seams and sand them, find a good quality paint that will cover any pattern and texture on the vinyl wallpaper. He gives a great tutorial on this I learned a couple things too.
Total novice here, I tried to paper tape over the butt joints, but like you said, the amount of mud was excessive and difficult to feather out. So I tried just using a “hot” mud (90 min) and I liked the results after sanding. Probably would have used the paper fluff stuff if I’d seen it in the store. The drywall sheets are glued to the studs (at least mine are) so there shouldn’t be any movement.
No. A thousand times no. Tear it out. That crap paneling is a fire hazard and they likely stink from the former owners. Rip it all out. Insulate it with Rockwool R-15 insulation (you may have to bump out the studs if you have 2×3 framing like I do, you can get 1×2 strips at Lowe’s). Mice and bugs hate it, fire and water proof. Good sound deadening too. Vapor barrier (do it right, it’s different North vs South U.S.). Drywall with 3/8″ sheetrock, walls and ceilings. The ceiling panels are even worse. Also a wicked fire hazard. You’re breathing that crap. Do it right the first time like I’m doing. My entire MH is almost done, just some more sheet rocking to be done after the holidays and ALL walls and ceilings are done. No hacks. All work. Will never have to do it again. Neither will my son when I die.
I’ve got a feeling that you and I are going to be real good friends,😂! I’ve got a 14 yr old place, untouched. Luckily it wasn’t used much but I’ve got my DIY project for the rest of my life! I’ve always wanted to have a place like this where I can change what I don’t like because it suits me. Pity I have no budget for it~😁. I started my business career in DIY and know first hand how much money one pays for labor; I’m here to say, labor is not any cheaper. There is a reason why someone does what I am planning to do for a living. I have a lot of tradesmen in my family that refuse to come over until I am done. They know damn well that if they come earlier than that I am going to hand them a trowel as I say hello. I’m only 1:50 into this article, and you are already talking about a problem in my bathroom. The house came with a cheesy mirror that I thought would be easy-peasy to replace. So there is about four square feet of a gaping vinyl wallcovering with exposed drywall. Plus drywall battens. Er. Plus everything else–sink base cabinet, a very strangely placed kitchen cabinet* attached just below the pitched ceiling line, over the toilet. I could not forget to mention, there is the toilet*, shower enclosure*, no window*, a noisy exhaust fan mounted over the wall cabinet,* lighting,* linen storage,* the sink,* faucet* and sink basin*. Seriously, the bathroom for two bedrooms and guests has all the charm of a bathroom in a train station. There is then, a couple of subjects I need to bone up on.
Keep perusal. Hopefully learn what to do. Have you have a article replacing old crank windows. Be so awesome. I might be the only gal with them. I’ve got a new heater and AC unit. I am planning to redo the roof. I put new carpets in a while back. I am updating that. I did update the electrical, but there’s definitely things that need to be done. So much work is it worth it. Finished 2 bedroom 1 bath worth probably less than I could sale it for. I don’t want to sell. This is great.
I never watch anything mobile home related on YouTube but somehow you popped up on my recommended. I actually work on new mobile homes, even finished drywall. Ive always encouraged homeowners to try doing this when they chat about how it was cheaper to go vog wallboard. But I will say, doing this isn’t any easy task if you don’t do drywall for a living. This article is a good example of doing it right.
Hello 😀 My sister and I are moving and getting manufactured homes, which is why I started perusal, but wanted to say I really enjoyed the article and think I might be able to do this (I love dyi, but I need really clear instructions because in am not a natural). Subscribed, so I will drop in more often in my wee corvette👍🏻
I purchased my first modular home set on block foundation up in West Virginia and it has drywall through out the entire home..(Dutch) The second home was in Florida (palm Harbor). It was also drywall. Also a modular again set on block foundation. . Now am moving to Oklahoma and looking at a clayton which again is ordered drywall. and set on foundation. Not sure what kinda mod will have moble home walls
Great teaching article. Lately I’ve noticed, only a couple pieces, the drywall tape has started coming lose in the garage. It was built about 17 years ago. Two guys did the job, possibly why it’s only happening in a couple spots. I’ll have to check out your articles on how to repair those type issues. Too bad we can’t hire you.
The only problem using this method with mobile homes is you can’t see any studs, wires, or insulation. A drip comes through the roof, down a rafter, turns at a wire, turns onto a rafter 5 rows down, down a stud to a pipe, turns again to where its seen nowhere near the problem. The damage must be removed all the way to the problem. perusal this process and the repair estimate that follows can wreck your life. Also mobile homes unlike a house have 3″ walls and are horribly inefficient. Any insulation issues puts you in the worse than horrible category. You can’t just remodel over water damage because it’ll be sealed it in and literally destroy your home. Inspecting, replacing, or improving your insulation is huge for efficiency. Updated windows too. Of course dumping a lot of money into a mobile home is in most cases a bad idea and easy to do. They don’t sell any of that crap at Lowes. They’ll have some things to sell that are an emergency band aid…but mobile home supply stores and online sellers have proper replacement and upgrades. Their prices are many times more than standard building supplies. Its diabolical considering a huge number of people that own mobile homes are low income or poverty. Excellent mud tips…I didn’t know they had that fiber product now.
I’ve been looking at mobile homes in the country and I’m happy to see those strips can be optional. I hadn’t considered the change of depth with adding drywall in my mental vision, though, so thank you! I’d love to see a article to properly prime the plastic panel type wall to spray a knockdown texture over-is that even possible? thanks for the article!
Just wanted to say thank you for taking your time to post the articles that you do I live on a budget paycheck to paycheck actually but there’s so many things that I’d like to do inside my home to make it just feel more comfortable and from perusal your articles I feel confident that I’ll be able to. Thanks
Well, I never understand they show the stuff but if you actually don’t know how to do it or you’re just not skilled in it, there’s not a lot of companies that know how to come out and do this kind of work where I live. I have found one company and I have called like three times for them to come and repairs underbelly and the insulation isn’t completely wonky yet but it will be is some water damage continues and it only happens when it rains because Roofer messed up. Yeah Roofer that’s supposed to prevent water damage caused water damage. Isn’t that fun?