Soundproofing walls can improve the sound insulation of a room by installing permanent or non-permanent additions. To achieve soundproofing, decouple the room from the larger structure and build a new room within it, preferably with several options. Temporary solutions like panels and rugs, or permanent solutions like replacing doors or installing underlayment, can be used. Cover walls with thick blankets, moving pads, tapestries, or quilts, which absorb more sound than thinner materials. If hard surfaces reflect and amplify sounds, soft surfaces do the opposite. Hang thick blankets, tapestries, or quilts on the walls.
To build a soundproof basement studio room, identify specific issues and prepare the area, follow the steps of HVAC, wiring, and sealing off the room. Use the 4 Elements of Soundproofing (decoupling, absorption, mass, damping) as a guide to understand the process and achieve professional results. Building a double stud wall is the best way to achieve soundproofing, as the sound must pass through the gypsum board, wooden stud of the inside wall.
Add a thick layer of cotton batt, fiberglass insulation, or other soundproof insulation between the studs. Mass is the best way to achieve soundproofing, using heavy, high-density products like masonry or concrete.
📹 Soundproofing A Room (It’s Easier Than You Think)
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How to cheaply soundproof a room?
The process of soundproofing a room entails the implementation of a multifaceted approach, encompassing the strategic placement of furniture, the installation of wall insulation, the incorporation of noise-reducing windows, the use of shutters, the introduction of rugs and soft furnishings, and the planting of hedges. Additionally, noise-reducing glass can be installed by a professional to mitigate traffic or neighbor noise, thereby enhancing the comfort and relaxation of the home environment.
How to aesthetically soundproof a room?
Soundproofing can be achieved by improving furniture and furnishings, such as using shelves, wooden shutters, sound dampening curtains, soft furnishings, carpets, wallcoverings, thick blankets, fixing loose floorboards, and acoustic caulk. In England, there are complaints about noisy neighbors for every 160 people, and 20 of the population live in areas with harmful traffic noise levels. To soundproof a room from traffic or neighbors, there are several ways, including improving the building’s fabric, installing noise reduction windows, and implementing quick-fix DIY cheap soundproofing solutions. By implementing these solutions, you can enjoy the peace and quiet you deserve, allowing you to enjoy the peace and quiet you deserve.
How do professionals soundproof a room?
To improve your sleeping environment, consider adding materials such as carpets, wall hangings, blankets, upholstered furniture, bookcases, curtains, and more to your space. Adding specialized acoustic panels, better seals around windows and doors, and thick padding for the floor can also help reduce noise. While some may claim to get used to the noise of city dwellers, it’s essential to address the noise. The World Health Organization recommends sleeping in a room with noise levels below 30 decibels, which is whisper-quiet.
If your bedroom is louder than whisper-quiet at night, you may be losing sleep due to it. To improve your sleeping environment, explore options for noise reduction and achieve successful sound absorption with ease and minor expense.
Is it possible to 100% soundproof a room?
Soundproofing a room in a domestic property can be achieved by following certain guidelines. To achieve reasonable levels of soundproofing, triple-glazing windows with different thicknesses of glass at staggered intervals and installing them completely sealed can be used. For best results, at least one pane should be of laminated glass. If light isn’t an issue, the window reveal can be blocked up. However, a more easily removable alternative may be preferred.
Two layers of high-density Acoustic Plasterboard should be fitted into the reveal, one behind the other and tight to the window. The remaining void should be filled with Acousticel M20AD and two layers of Acoustic Plasterboard fixed over the top, sandwiching the M20AD sound insulation.
What are the rules for soundproofing?
The requisite level of airborne soundproofing in purpose-built dwellings is 45 decibels (dB) for walls, floors, and ceilings, and 62 dB for impact sound. In the context of renovations and conversions, the requisite level of soundproofing is somewhat diminished, reaching 43 dB. Conversely, the threshold for impact soundproofing is marginally elevated, reaching 64 dB in dwellings undergoing a change of use. This reflects the necessity for soundproofing in a range of dwelling types.
What is the best layout for soundproofing?
Acoustic panels are a crucial component of any home studio, as they help absorb sound and reduce echo and reverberation, which can significantly improve the quality of recordings. They should be placed on the walls and ceiling, as sound waves travel more easily through these surfaces. Additionally, it is crucial to consider the main source of noise, such as a window, when placing acoustic panels. By considering these factors, it is easier to choose the best location for acoustic panels in a home office, ensuring a calm and relaxing space ideal for working or learning. Overall, acoustic panels are essential for creating a comfortable and conducive environment for a variety of activities.
What are the 4 elements of soundproofing?
Soundproofing consists of four elements: decoupling, absorption, mass, and damping. Decoupling is crucial as sound is a vibration, and air cavities resonate. Absorption occurs when air cavities resonate, while mass is a crucial element. Damping is the final element for soundproofing. To build a soundproof room, start with a basic understanding of soundproofing construction. The goal is to prevent vibrations from reaching the “your” side of the wall or ceiling. An example of a typical noise problem is shown through a wall, where rigid drywall is rigidly connected to wall studs, causing vibrations to conduct straight through.
How to decorate a room that is soundproof?
Soundproofing is a popular way to improve the comfort and happiness of a room, as it can also improve sleep and reduce stress levels. However, many people associate soundproofing with bulky, unappealing products that impact the appearance of a room. However, there are several aesthetically soundproofing methods that can be beneficial.
One way to block noise is by using soundproof curtains, which can be customized to fit the dimensions of any window and provide thermal benefits. AcousticCurtain, a product that deflects sound waves, is available in various fabric options and can be customized to fit any window.
Another way to soundproof a room is by using a door seal, which is a minimalistic solution that won’t affect the appearance or aesthetics of the room. Although not necessarily a decorative form of soundproofing, it is affordable and easy to install on your own. However, it is important to note that this soundproofing method should be used along with other methods for the best results.
In summary, soundproofing is a simple and effective way to improve the comfort and happiness of a room. By using soundproof curtains, door seals, and other aesthetically pleasing solutions, you can create a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing space that is both functional and visually appealing.
How to soundproof a room that is already built?
Soundproofing existing walls without damaging them is often the quickest and most effective solution. Installing an additional layer of drywall on top of existing surfaces is an easy, nondestructive way to add mass. This is especially important when dealing with noise from loud music or other loud objects. There are effective means of soundproofing without damaging walls that can provide sound solutions that can be installed on your own.
To determine the level of sound control you want and the size of the project, consider the specific needs and preferences of your family or neighbors. By considering the potential noise levels and the size of your project, you can find the best solution for your needs.
How much does it cost to DIY soundproof a room?
The financial outlay for soundproofing is typically in the range of $10 to $30 per square foot, with the precise cost dependent on the dimensions of the room, the surfaces required, and the selected method of soundproofing.
How expensive is it to completely soundproof a room?
The financial outlay for soundproofing is typically in the range of $10 to $30 per square foot, with the precise cost dependent on the dimensions of the room, the surfaces required, and the selected method of soundproofing.
📹 How to Soundproof a Room | The Home Depot
Whether you deal with city noise or roosters crowing, soundproofing a room can make life more comfortable. You’ll enjoy better …
You are coupling the drywall directly to the studs through the screws, eliminating pretty much anything you gain from trying to control the air by sealing up the room or any efforts to decouple with the greenboard. Then you are defeating the air control by having a bunch of 6″ holes from the hvac that just lead to the other side of the drywall (your only real soundproofing here) and further defeating the soundproofing. Ultimately you are going to have an STC of MAYBE 45, which is barely better than what using 5/8″ drywall and pink fluffy insulation would give you on a standard wall with no other measures. You have to decouple the surface of the inside wall from the framing or the sound will just travel to other rooms through the coupled surfaces. For the amount of effort and cost here, you could have just added a second layer of 5/8″ drywall to all walls and ceilings and gotten ~50STC. Add in some properly installed resilient website and some green glue between the layers of 5/8″ drywall and get that number up around 60STC, or better, do isolation clips and hat website and get it above 65STC. Or if you have the space, just do fully decoupled walls with an air gap and get over 70STC. Then use the air control measures (caulking, fireputty on boxes, etc) to not slip backward in your rating. Then either go with a high mass duct with a muffler to stop the sound from traveling to the rest of the house through the ducts, or better, use a mini-split system for hvac inside the soundproof shell.
Great article. Been in the business for 20 years. Alot of trades think they’re superior to the next trade… so they’ll do whatever they need/want to in order to facilitate their own work, not thinking about the next trade (or previous one) in the process. And when they encounter an issue, like the gov’t, they’ll blame their predecessor – the trade before them… just an observation lol
I just used harbor freight moving blankets because they were 5$ each for a 10’x20’ blanket. Plus theyre mold and fire resistant. So i just used them behind the drywall and overtop of the drywall i used a berber carpet with a 1/4 inch matt that i used carpet glue to fasten it to the walls.. berber is also fire and mold resistant.. the room was for this couples kids after they get them a drumset and full stack amp with guitar. Thats 8×12″ speakers driven with 1k watts.. and apparently they can play all night and parents can sleep without being bothered.. only bad part is the room gets extremely hot really fast.. the room had no central heating or air. Only used a window ac unit and space heater. Which the kids put a temperpedic foam mattress chunk to cover the window when they play so it holds the heat in.. holds the smell of those boys also.. so does their rooms though so isnt the room.. but gets ripe in there ill say myself. But they were all extremely happy with it and didnt have to charge them for the 5grand worth of material i saved using what i did.. the electrical boxes i used the sonoboard however just because of the electrical and kept it all up to code. Inspector himself said hes never seen anybody use moving blankets but when i showed him the materials used he agreed they use the same fire resistant chemical to treat the blankets as they use on cellulose insulation which technically makes it approved for use behind drywall in finished areas in residential applications.
Hey brother, love your articles and just wanted to share a tip I came up with when using those spray foam cans. Like you mentioned, not everyone has an expensive foam gun, but you can get a roll of plastic tubing in bulk for pretty cheap and cut a few lengths of it to fit on the tip that comes on foam cans. It’s cheap, flexible, and keeps the can in an upright position. Not something a professional would use, but if you’re the type that does your own work I think it’s a handy thing. Additionally the tubing has many other uses, like bleeding brake lines by yourself. Hope this tip helps someone out there, and thanks for your dedication to spreading knowledge through your articles!
Just a slight correction: adding insulation doesn’t add much mass to the ceiling (or wall). The reason you add insulation is to stop sound reverberation inside the ceiling (or wall) cavity which essentially amplifies the sound. 5/8 inch drywall is for adding mass and what the green board does is isolate the drywall from the ceiling structure to prevent sound vibrations traveling from the drywall to the ceiling joists and the floor above.
Is there any way to minimise noise travelling through the HVAC ducts? Let’s say that I am soundproofing a spare bedroom in the basement that happens to be located underneath the kitchen. The technique in this article will likely take care of the sound travelling through the floor say from a coffee maker and footsteps from people walking in the kitchen.
It may be too late for this, but have you ever thought of leaving a note inside the wall or ceiling explaining what this awesome product is? I was thinking about what the reaction of the young people who renovate this room in 50 or 60 years will be. Maybe the article will still be available, but leaving a note with all that information can answer those question for them. Just an idea..
Hey, I’m finishing 2 bedrooms and an office room in our ranch style built in 1976. I really feel like leaving the HVAC in the ceiling is the right choice because the current room (air vent, but no return) gets stuffy and smelly with teenagers in it. I really want to make as quiet of a room as possible but since I’m not taking out the HVAC (adding return vent) for comfort reasons, I don’t want to waste money. I’m planning on sistering the 2x10s with notched 2x12s because the floor flexes a lot and I don’t want cracked drywall on the ceiling. I’m thinking a layer of R19 in the floor joists (maybe 2 if it’s still helpful even if HVAC is present), 5/8″ sheet rock on all walls (also for durability), 2×4 walls with R13. I’m thinking the money spent (and headroom given up) on RSIC-1 clips and the top hat website would be a waste of money because of keeping the HVAC vents in the rooms. Also thinking the second layer of 5/8 with green glue would not be as effective due to keeping the HVAC. Previously it was just 2×10 joists with drop ceiling and a lot of stomping noise and audible noise goes right through the floor. Thoughts??
Love the info, the show and tell, but I could really do without the 100+ fast cuts every minute! 2 words/cut, 4 words/cut, 1 word/cut 1 word zoom/cut….. My God man, was the original recording really that bad? I promise ya I’d prefer it over a thousand fast cuts. Just my opinion man, nothin more. Cheers 🍻
The screws couple the wood construction acoustically to the green-sheets to the drywall. To really decouple the inner ceiling from the basement-wall, maybe fix the dry wall just to the green sheets where there is no wood underneath, or maybe hang the whole inner constructions with springs to the basement wall. To really soundproof you need to build a room in a room, with no direct contact of thw inner room with the outer room.
Thank you for making all these articles and I’ve learned some things over the years. I’ve also done studio installations and one of the biggest challenges is separating HVAC systems. You have not stated that this is a separate system, and if it is part of the whole house, all the sound will go through the vents. You are correct in stating with this type of soundproofing that one needs to do 99 to 100% for it to be effective, basically waterproof and air proof. Just as an aside, someone who is spending so much money to sound proof may also be interested in the acoustical performance of such a room, non-parallel walls make a huge difference in standing waves in the lower base regions and upper mid regions of Audio. selling a new construction tilted ceiling and flared walls will reduce the amount of Acoustical diffusers, needed and much room treatment which can run into the thousands and I really just a Band-Aid on a bad sounding room. Audio file and contractor 🙂
I bet you are going to put the ceiling hard up against the green wall. And there you have it a home for mould. I am in Australia and did, for the most part, what you did. A year later I had to pull down everything in the ceiling and start again. I replaced the the sound proofing with a corrugated sound proofing board and suspended the ceiling and ventilated the ceiling cavity. That was over 25 years ago. No noise gets to the bedroom above. Never forget about mould. Even the International Space Station has a mould problem.
Wow, this guy talks like he is doing a good job, so many incorrect statements and wrong techniques. Anybody that actively creates a triple leaf effect knows nothing about soundproofing. And then to say to compress 6 inch insulation into a 3 1/2 inches has no idea why the insulation is there, it is not about mass it is about absorption and compressing insulation reduces its ability to absorb. I learned about these techniques from individuals that PhDs in this area and I have applied what they said with amazing results.
As for wall soundproofing, IF you can afford to lose some space, building double walls with a space (like 1/2 inch) between so they do not touch, works great for preventing sound transmission. It’s the method used in apartments to separate units from each other. Edited – I was forced to add to the original comment, because a few people couldn’t comprehend the idea that this was only an additional suggestion of another method used for sound proofing and I used apartments as the example. Perhaps apartments wasn’t the best example, but condo’s use the same methods and you usually don’t hear the neighbors. It’s only a part of the equation for creating a sound proofed room. Logically speaking, if you hit the 2x framing member in the wall, the sound will vibrate through to the opposite room that shares that wall, no matter how much sound proofing insulation is in that wall. You can use sound deadening caulks between two sheets of drywall and this can help, but you still have the potential for sound to vibrate through. Everything working together – 1)a double wall. 2)sound proof insulation. 3)doubling up drywall. 4)caulking any and all wall penetration and joints. Finally, there is a metal website drywaller’s use that help separate the drywall from the stud wall to aid in the prevention of sound transmission. This is usually purchased at a drywall supply company. I’m sure there are other methods and materials out there, but again, this was only meant as an additional method. I don’t think that’s too difficult to comprehend.
This is an awesome article, and now I want to do this to one of my own rooms lol. I have a question though! Considering the repeated emphasis on getting it 99% sound proof and limiting the metal in the walls and ceiling, how do you plan to reduce sound travel through the ducting? Both for the metal (Sorbothane pads like stainless steel sinks?) and the incoming airflow (breathable acoustic fabric?) would need to be managed I’d imagine.
Yes but….. If you doing a media room you are crazy if you don’t design it for Dolby Atmos. That requires speaker on the ceiling to create an immersive experience. Most will want a speaker flush mounted, this may also be desired for the LCR and surround (in wall) speakers as well. You are right you need mass and zero are gaps.
I’ll be starting on my small studio build in my garage, and I’ve been prepping for a solid year. I think I’ve watched every single “soundproofing” article he’s made. And, it’s borderline nauseating that HD doesn’t carry Sonoran in the states. There’s nothing even REMOTELY comparable (that I know of) to use. So, I’m stuck with the drywall/MLV/ method. Given that it’s in the garage I don’t have to get crazy with multiple layers, but its still a lot of work. Thankfully, Jeff has me feeling extremely confident, moving forward. Frankly, it’s the framing that still has me a little confused. But, he’s got a article on that, as well. Thanks Jeff!!! P.S. Short of us hounding our local HD to carry Sonoran, you should hit them from your end, and show all the requests/complaints in America of guys that can’t get it. You’d think they’d sell more of it in the states than CA. But, I digress….
Acoustically, none of this makes any sense. Everything he did was a complete waste of money and time. All that talk about 95% vs 50% and integrity, and then he cuts a hole in the green boards. The duct work hanging right into the center of the room will be the weakest link. Along with all of the drywall that is screwed right into all of the studs throughout the room. This short circuits the system and defeats the purpose of green board or any other ridiculous “acoustic” product that he put into the wall. The putty pads were about the only thing I agree with on this project. If you didn’t want to hear anything and truly soundproof it, the only way is to build two separate walls that dont touch! Or to to hang everything on isolation clips with double drywall. You must seal all cracks with flexible caulking NOT SPRAYFOAM, its not flexible, its rigid and will transmit sound. Add an Acoustic STC door if you can afford it or a solid door with an acoustic door seal kit. If you want a soundproof room, call an acoustics expert, not a DIY’er. I can assure you that no contractor is an expert in acoustics or how to build a room properly. I will never get this 22 minutes of my life back but he had me at the beginning when he said the fluffy pink stuff adds mass. The only way to add mass would be to use mass loaded vinyl which is is 1 lb PSF or 5/8 drywall which is 2.75 lbs PSF. Take a guess how much the fluffy pink stuff weighs? .05 lbs PSF. Basically nothing. No mass. Its mostly air, which sound loves to travel right through.
Sorry, even new fiberglass is junk, use the Rockwool soundproofing insulation. They used to sell tan colored boards for sound non-reflection. I don’t know if they are still available. The stuff you used is thicker though, I’ll have to look into it. One thing on the duct work, never crimp above, crimp below. Crimp the duct fitting into the above duct.
@10:00 he’s lifting his ‘slumping insulation’. But the insulation isn’t tight against the studs and has half-inch gaps on an exterior wall (nice condensation trap😢) – that’s why it slumped. Yet after patting himself on the back, he slaps on drywall and it’s guaranteed to slump again. So much confident blowviation about doing quality work😅
I appreciate next gen fiberglass but ive been storing mineral wool outside under tarps for 6 months and nothing has gone after it and it looks new. No slump and much easier to install alone. Easier to install in general but the idea that I dont have to worry about it compressing over time is great peace of mind. Makes me feel like im investing rather than just getting it done
I would not recommend people follow this advice. To dampen bass, you need to put mass on the ceiling. To do this, you use a special adhesive and screws to mount a piece of sheet rock between the joists in the ceiling to the floor boards above. Next, you put another layer of special adhesive and yet another sheet of drywall and screws. once that is done, you put in rock wool using hangers. Next, you need to decouple the bottom layer of sheetrock from the floor joists using special isolators that decuple the resonance from the bottom layer. If you don’t do these things, the bottom sheetrock is going to act like the skin on a drum and just pass the low frequency straight trough to the floor above which will just radiate it into the space and shake loose silverware in the kitchen. The two sheetrock sheets on the floor above add enough mass to dampen the long wavelengths of the base. If you are doing home theater, my advice is to get on some home theater forums. They will pretty much say that the above article is not going to buy you very much. Not that it won’t do something, but if you are going to go with a mid or high end home theater with large speakers and subs, the above is going to be a pretty miserable fail.
I used the Roxul insulation/sound proofing when I gutted my house. It’s fireproof, waterproof, & mold proof. If you are going to all trouble and cost of renovating for whatever reason …you will be stuck with the choices you made for the next 10, 20, 30 years. Pay the little extra for the better product when you can. You won’t regret it.
Great article. I’m ok with the algorithm recommendation as I don’t have any plans to make sound proof room, but it sounds like a good idea. The only criticism I can offer is to always make sure to seal duct seams with mastic or foil tape – especially if you are focusing on ensuring efficiency of systems during any build.
Looks good. A little overkill for my tastes but at some point may end up picking up a place that is split into two apartments and will do something to help the noise not transfer from one side to the other. I do have to say your option for draining the hose bib is more of a pain than my solution. I installed a PEX distribution block and the more I use it the better I like it. I can shut off my hose bib, take a air compressor with a blow nozzle, pull the line out of the distribution block and blow all the water out of the line. Makes my life too easy as one thing that I installed as well is an outdoor shower. Yep it seems odd but if you are outside working you can do a quick rinse to cool off any time and don’t have to pull out a hose and when you are a complete mess from crawling in the mud or under a house or whatever you can shower outside instead of dragging it all through the house. Plus in the summers here it’s easily in the 100’s and the feel of a nice shower with a little breeze is such a good feeling. Oh, one other thing that is helpful with a distribution block which I just dealt with not long ago is draining out my water heater. We all know that there is calcium build up in most water heaters so I removed the crappy plastic valve but to get the water out was a MAJOR pain. I had it gravity draining overnight and there was still 10 or 15 gallons of water inside it because of the sediment blocking the valve. I took an empty hot water port and applied some compressed air, naturally the cold water feed valve to the water heater was off along with all the faucets.
I’m new to your website, but the few articles I have watched have been very educational and helpful even after being experienced for 40 years myself. Great article! One question I have is in regards to vapor barrier on the exterior walls. I was taught at a young age to install my vapor barrier between the concrete wall and the newly constructed stud wall. We simply secured it to the bottom of the joists and then some spots of liquid nails on the concrete walls. Then down to the concrete floor and out past the new wall by about a foot. I was always under the impression that this protected studs, insulation, etc. I’m always willing to learn new techniques and tips. Please advise if I’m missing something. Again, great article! Thanks much!
First of all, there is no such thing as “soundproof” or “not soundproof”. Every element of every space has its own degree of sound isolation. And unless you’re using specialty construction (room-in-room), you’re going to hear noise from adjacent spaces. You’ll just hear much less in a room that’s been designed to be isolated from surrounding spaces. Other nitpicks: 1. Putty pads are not equivalent to spray foam. They are better, in that they actually have mass, and when applied correctly, are air-tight. Foam has cells. For the same reason, filling gaps with foam does almost nothing. 2. If the contribution of insulation was mass, mineral wool would be more effective than it is. Insulation’s job is converting sound to heat. Its presence, not its actual mass, is what’s important. 3. You don’t need a double ceiling. Mount 2 layers of standard drywall on a resilient website, with staggered panel edges. Run the gyp on your walls up to within 1/4″, and caulk the gap. Use crown molding if you don’t like the gap. Use putty pads on the back of lighting boxes, which really shouldn’t be old-fashioned cans, but modern LEDs with much less heat and space taken up. Better yet, use wall-mounted or floor-mounted lighting. 4. All that trouble to build that complicated ceiling, and you put a big hole in it for HVAC. Okay. 5. SONOpan is a gimmick sold by a company that doesn’t really understand acoustics. It says something that a company has only single-number ratings and testimonials, and no actual data available.
It’s actually NOT easier than you think…. If you REALLY want to know how to do real sound control for the home (sound proofing is a term that is misused. Even multi million dollar Hollywood studios that film Avengers etc are NOT sound proof. They’re close, maybe 97%, but they’re not sound proof), then look no further than this book: Home Recording Studio: Build It Like the Pros 2nd Edition by Rod Gervais. This book is backed by science and real world measured experience. He gives lots of charts and studies to show where the line of “diminishing returns” starts happening eg. using 2 pieces of drywall versus 3 or 4 pieces. He also tells you where to spend the money to achieve the sound control of 3 pieces by looking at other factors that come into play of air movement.
I like your articles, I hate renovating my own home. I watch one of your articles and then I can do a little more renos… thx for that. Because I like you… those studs used as strapping don’t need to go wall to wall, right? I can’t tell if you had to scroll the green panels around the straping ends, but if you give yourself 1 1/2″ to 1 3/4″ from the end of the studs to the wall, no need to scroll, less gap, less contact transfer. If you’re worried about not having enough hold power by not having a nail or screw securing the end of the strapping to a joist, use two screws to secure the strap on the second last joist (or whatever you’re securing to)
I would take the 85% = 50% comment even further. I’d say 99% = 50%. Sound is like water. It will find ANY little place that’s open and it can seep through. So I was happy to see you using acoustic putty on the electrical boxes… absolutely necessary. Foam is not a good acoustic seal. Use acoustic caulk, like Green Glue. What is the STC performance of greenboard? I HIGHLY recommend either Green Glue for retrofit or QuietRock for new projects instead of greenboard. Both have a layer of “magic” stuff that converts motion (vibration) into heat. We added a granny unit to our house, carefully soundproofing the wood framed common wall and it’s incredible. Our tenant had a raccoon come in looking for food and stamped and screamed at the top of her lungs to chase it out. We heard the thunder of her feet coming through the floor-joists (flanking sound) but heard nothing of her screaming. We never hear anything from that apartment and there’s 40 feet of common wall.
I’ve built a ton of theater rooms and other soundproofed areas using pretty much every technique out there. As far as the design, materials used and installation procedures, I never had to decide on anything, I just had to build it according to the specs in the blueprints. After all these years, I would say the ones that worked the best were the ones where we used the black rubber sheet, hat website, rubber isolation clips and 1 1/2″ Quiet Board (with all the putty and Quiet Seal involved). And that was just a regular homeowner in my town. Everything else seemed like a huge waste of money, including some of the stuff that we built for people who spent many millions on their homes. We soundproofed an entire condo top to bottom, a pinsetter room for someone who wanted a bowling alley in their basement and even soundproofed+bulletproofed walls for another wealthy client. I’ve done some crazy stuff, but not all of it was worth it in my opinion.
You reference the mineral wool. And for sound proof you are right don’t waste the money if sound proofing is the goal. Only benefit is fire safety. Also i worked at the factory in BC for Rock Wool. If you do decide to use it just go without the cheapest product. There was R14 and Safe n Sound. Same product just the safe and sound didn’t meet R value. Basically if the mix was off from the melter we would switch bags. And yet I have seen safe and sound go for more money sometimes. So ya if you do buy it go with R14 if it’s cheaper.
I normally love your articles, but as a guy who’s had to build a bunch of sound proof studios… “sound proofing” is anything but simple. Yes mass is what stops low end frequencies from passing from medium to medium, coupled with an air gap. HVAC, windows, doorways, flooring, power outlets all present major issues. Say you need to soundproof your penthouse studio so the tenant below you doesn’t hear the band recording upstairs. Not so simple.
I love you, dude. But you talk too damn fast. Maybe it’s your editing. I’ve noticed this in all of your articles. I’m trying to process the complex information you are giving me. the viewer. It might be simple to you but isn’t to the general public. Keep doing what you doing, Just slow it down a bit. Maybe it gets you more likes and subscribes, but these are important details you are giving me (the viewer). Not everybody is a contractor like you…
Just terrible. The floor is gonna be the main cause of sound and vibrati9n so start with the floor, rubbers and stops in the floor ect. After that you want proper soundproofing wall insulation and you want staggered 2×4 &2×6 walls for breaking up extra density and vibrations. Then the ceiling should be full of electrical above the fiber board not between. Yikes dude. This guy puts dish soap in his drywall mud- nah.
I gotta say, I kept waiting for some of that spray foam to get in your eyes as you looked up and sprayed around that ceiling duct 🤦🏼♂️ You’re extremely fortunate if you’ve never gotten that stuff on your hands. That’s one reason I can think of that would explain why you weren’t wearing safety glasses. The other reason is that maybe you enjoy a good acetone eye rinse from time to time. 🤦🏼♂️ You only get one pair of eyes per lifetime, brother.
I’m an acoustical engineer. Unfortunately, there is no such thing as “totally soundproof” unless of course you want to die in the space. Why, because sound requires air to travel from point A to point B. Remove the air, you’ll remove the sound, but unfortunately you would succumb to death by asphyxiation.
9:30 What’s gonna rot your house is all that plastic you put there on the inside. Not sure why this is getting popular AGAIN after it was proven to rot houses back in the 80s. Plastic seals creates rot when in concact with organic material. Only place for a plastic seal is on the ground below a suspended foundation. Let your house breathe man.
Everything I have read about sound proofing a room says to use two sets of studs that are offset. Otherwise the sheet rock / dry wall will transmit the sound through the studs to the sheet rock / dry wall on the other side. Sound travels faster through solid objects than through air. I didnt watch the rest of the article, but sound dampening in HVAC ducts is important too. Nothing pisses me off more than conference rooms that have no sound treatment and small HVAC supply vents that whistle when the air kicks on. To dampen low frequency sounds you need solid mass. All the fiberglas will do little, especially if placed betweens studs installed incorrectly as mentioned above. Visit a modern high school performance auditorium. The entrances will be U shaped which prevents direct sound transfer. In addition the walls will have an attractive sound dampening material consisting of a heavy porus material, covered with fabric and then wooden slats. This helps the sound (pressure) waves cancel each other or be absorbed. It like a mini anechoic chamber (where there is zero sound reflection off the walls, floor or celing). It is easier to absorb high frequencies than
The title of this is not even close to the truth ‘it’s easier than you think’? Easier than you think is a magic spray can that creates a chemical bond with whatever paint you’ve already used. This will, in minutes, provide a near perfect sound-proofing solution. I can’t think of a more labour intensive way than you’ve just shown us. Pah
I have a 20’x20′ detached workshop about 30 ft from the house. I use it for my golf simulator room. It is so loud when the ball hits the club then the impact screen that it drives our little dogs, inside the house, crazy. Is there a different, cheaper way to soundproof this bldg? Right now the inside is only framed up. No insulation or drywall. Just studs showing all around. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
2 layers of fiberglass insulation isn’t a cost saving strategy. 1 layer of rock wool would be less expensive. BTW, who has a 2 layer deep area between walls to support fiberglass insulation ?? NO ONE !! Use the ROCK WOOL. Anything else is a CHEAP way of doing things. You get what you pay for. This guy is full of crap.
Where’s the floating floor with vibration absorbing suspension? The lead in-wall lining? The Helmholtz counter-resonators? The low frequency thermal traps? The HVAC acoustic diffusors? The zero-bypass double doors? Any thought given to the residual room node resonances? Might be OK for a DIY home theater, but this is kinda half-assed compared to the way the Big Boys do it. “Soundproofing” means different things to different folks, I suppose.
When people rush basements I don’t understand. Take your time, like you said with the soundproofing, and make sure it’s all done correctly. Especially with moisture control and electrical! An extra two weeks (for arguments sake) in the grand scheme of things is nothing at all. Thanks for the article and great job! Side note: you were talking while cutting that green board over head. 😷
I love all the discussions in the comments. NO real world install is perfect. My takeaway: dense drywall reflects sound (good for protecting other rooms), fluffy insulation absorbs sound (good for making the TV room sound good), and air gaps allow sound through. Movie theaters are just concrete walls with insulation covered in fabric.
There is no way this room is “soundproof”. I appreciate the article and the construction and the helpfulness of it, but with all due respect, please change the title to not mis-lead people. I’ve done a similar studio build with 16″ thick “soundproof” walls/ceiling/floor and no outlets, and even with that, you can still hear sound on the outside when I am cranking it up inside. It is barely audible but yes you can still hear it. It is not soundproof. If you lead people to believe they will have a soundproof room after doing what you are demonstrating, they will spend a lot of time and money and be very disappointed in the end.
Pray for sonopan to come to the US. Are we getting through to them? Shareholders meeting? Might be troublesome to call it greenboard which is something else entirely. As with everything, don’t take the first no…just clamor. Are we ready to buy futures as it were? Front money will coax you? Preorder paid. Money talks. Thing of it is….there’s something real close I’ve picked from appliance shipment, light blue in color, super light. Jeff is the best. No grumbling, he just does it and doesn’t seem to mind…….. don’t sweat the small stuff….it’ll work out…if you measure. Only thing I don’t like…….constipated windows. Demo is cheap. Windows can be free to haul. There is no excuse for unsafe unsightly small windows. Ask Jeff about the new fiberglass window wells that have egress steps. All about water runoff, and you don’t want critters to make a wrong turn. Also, indoor ramps for access and foot walking, we should have safe ramps floor to floor. Design it for looks and safety and ease of use.
While this will certainly perform better than a standard drywall ceiling, for a home theater, decoupling the ceiling with resilient website, or even better with isolation clips + hat website would be far more effective. This assembly looks to be about stc 38 (the extra air gap adds uncertainty, and might even make it worse, see triple leaf effect), whereas a simple assembly with isolation clips and a double layer of drywall would be around 60.
10:24 how do you know it wont slump again? what caused it? i would have jammed more insulation in those spots no? and maybe something to hold it in place if not? to be clear, i know zero about this stuff, just making a layman observation. it just seems if the condensation possibility is that big a deal, i wouldn’t be happy with just pulling it up.
Hi Jeff, just to let you know that my local Pont Masson building store in Alfred Ontario carries Sonopan. I’m in the process of finishing my entire basement, all DIY. I got to give a shout out to the 2 delivery guys that brought 150 sheet of 5/8″ and 20 1/2″ mold drywall down to the basement in an L shape stairway. That’s over 5 tons of drywall, definitely worth the extra delivery price which was quite reasonable. You are my number 1 source of information for whatever task I’m currently working on. Love the A to Z series you have. Cheers ☺
Did you cover the walls with drywall? if so please don’t use sonopan for this method at all, It will do nothing to stop sound transmission or “sound proof” the only thing it can do if left uncovered is sound deaden as in stop reflections. The double drywall plus green glue is the proper method, Sonopan is basically snake oil for soundproofing. You need to remove this article as it is misleading, great website though
I did acoustics in college and can mathematically testify that 100% or nothing is basically the reality. SO many building crews that don’t know acoustics will spends thousands upon thousands on building materials, not take care to do the gaps, and then have a horrible finished product. A little bit of caulk can make a huge difference..
Never understood why the building code is such that you build an exterior wall, fill it with fluffy stuff, add plastic, seal all the edges with the black goop, tape your penetrations. Then you stick a gazillion pin holes in the stuff by hanging your finishing material (drywall, whatever). Why not strap the wall afterward or build a 2nd mechnical 2×4 in front of your “exterior&sealed” wall. Makes it much simpler to work on/repair/renovate, little to no penetrations. After you get a better building out of it. FYI – that is what they do in other countries, ones that have the building science engineers design the building codes.
This was great, it gave me lots of ideas. Really helpful article, thanks. I have a converted garage which I want to make as soundproof as I can. It already has insulation and drywall so im wondering if i build on top of that, or strip it all back and go with the fibreglass and greenboard right from the masonry. Any suggestions?
This is easy,,standard insulation is a terrible almost worthless sound barrier,,need rock wool,,also they make a stand off bracket with a flange you attach to joist then install sound board drywall to flange,cause like he said sound will go through screws through framing and so on,,also penetrations are a culprit,im sure its quieter but far from sound proof
sound decreases most where differing materials intersect, thus, a layering method utilizing paper-plastic-cardboard-plastic-paper etc will equate a much greater sound absorption and also cost pennies compared to layering insulation, this also requires no sound-board or extra-framing…(unless you want it to) there is a product called “quiet sheets” or something that is layered plastics, like a thick tarp, and it’s thickness of less than 1/2 inch garners the same results as 18″ of concrete…………maybe a cool idea for future vids, do, the cheapest option, and the most expensive (which is the tarp at over $1000 for 8′ x 20′)
Your soundproofing article reminded me of back in the 1980s a musician friends dad who was VP for a large corporation in Illinois told me. He said “They told me they’d play better if they had better instruments, so I bought them $5000 worth of equipment. But they only got louder so I had to spend $15,000 to build a soundproof room so I didnt have to listen to them” 👍
Hey Jeff. i’m a cheap bar steward when it comes to material costs (Pink fluffy vs brown wool) and when we did our units for rentals our drywall contractor said the same thing, plus we did 2 layers of 1/2″ board. At the time I don’t think that sonoboards were on the market (or at least at a reasonable price) and the alterative was that fancy metal strapping that is a nightmare to install. Overall, lot less noise between the units and no issues/complaints. Liking those Sonopan simply from a DIY perspective.
Love your articles and the work here is great, except for the issue of ducting and the window. Easy enough to cover the glass with a removable panel, but man, that ducting is giant sound transmitter. No point worry about sealing air gaps (which you mention the importance of correctly), when you have ducting sending the sound outside like you left the doors open. Someone else mentioned building a second wall, not connected to the outer. That’s crucial. Also, having multiple layers of various density and material is super helpful.
i’ve got a similar DYI project coming up soon. question: what to do with the door? my plan is to acoustic-foam around the door frame, weather-strip around the contact points of the frame and door, and add a pad under the door. it’s a cheap door so i may need to upgrade. what am i missing and is there a better solution to this? THANKS!
This was really helpful Jeff, thank you. I’m having a Morton home built (post-frame construction). I’m tucking in a 14×24 media room on the main level. It will be on a concrete pad, 2 walls are post-frame exterior, one wall is against the garage, the last has a door and is against the house. Electric fireplace for heating. What would be your recommendations for a STC 50 rating walls, door, and ceiling?
will this work for thunder claps as well? im autistic and wish i had a room that was sound proof especially during thunderstorms. actually had a nearby lightning strike caught by my security cameras and the noise was deafening even inside my apartment, i wish my closet was built like this and had a door with a decent seal, so i could hide in there and not hear anything
really enjoy perusal you you taught me some stuff I fell two and a half stories cleaning gutters so now I am making ax handles jewelry things like that but I really appreciate you oh and I’m doing so suji ban and making desk I got these neighbors they complain every time I make a little step it’s ridiculous so I seen this soundproofing I’m really thinking about soundproofing my apartment lol oh yeah I just got me a circular saw I’ve done landscaping for 19 years so I usually don’t circular saw anything might need to check out one of your article lol thanks
Hi there. I’m wondering if there is a way to reduce outside noise (Low frequency sounds from rumbling cars) coming into my bedroom. My wall faces the street unfortunately and I also have a wooden gate that leads to the backyard which connects to this wall (It creates an L shape which im starting to think sound is getting trapped inside this little cavern and bouncing around making things worse if thats possible). Would installing bass traps/acoustic panels inside or outside of the house help at all? Its very strange as this room in particular is bad but not the others. I have tried sealing around the electrical outlets with acoustic caulking but no luck….
Hello! A very useful article, especially the fact that you focus on the maximum insulation of all gaps and technical holes. You’re showing a movie theater room, which usually has built-in speakers in the wall and ceiling. Quality speakers are very deep. I wanted to know how you do in this case. Thank you!
This is acoustic treatment, not soundproofing and will only serve to make the room itself more acoustically ‘dead’. Whilst this might be desirable it’ll do nothing to reduce airbourne or mechanical sound transmisssion. The only thing that might have an effect is the floor treatment which may reduce your noise transmission into adjacent structures are you are making an attempt at decoupling yourself from the structure of the building. Proper soundproofing involves adding lots of mass, sealing of joints (especially around the door) and if you’re really serious proper decoupling from the structure of the building.
If you want to acoustic treat your room. I would recommend paneling. Or get a thin sheet of plywood and put the foam on the plywood. Hang the plywood on the wall, with the foam like you would do a picture frame. Foam directly on your walls is going to be nasty when it’s time to remove it. To keep things simple. Use moving blankets when recording vocals.
One thing I do on doors that swing in, is to allow the material to over lap the left/top/right so that it covers the gaps between the door and door frame. This will stop or reduce any sound that is coming through that space. As far as doing this on the bottom of the door, it is usually fine when there are hard surfaces on the floor, but can be tricky if there is carpeting.
@home depot Please know that you have used the wrong term. This method will NOT “soundproof” a room. This article demonstrates “acoustic treatment” and the method will only lessen the reflective noise properties within the room. “Sound Proofing” by definition, is reducing sound transference from the inside to the outside of the room, aka sound won’t escape. As some may know, that requires specific building techniques that include treating the space in between the walls during the wall construction phase. Please consider correcting this as it is misleading terminology 😅😅😅
I like to study in peace but i cannot do so because there is a cutout in my wall (brick wall) which is an open window and a lot of sound disturbances come through it. I want to block the sounds that come from outside, what should i do? I cannot really fill it with bricks cause there’s not enough space to fit them because of the window grill which is built in the wall. Its like a thick window grill that is fixed in the cement and thus i cannot put bricks in the cutout.
As many other commenters have said, this is not soundproofing. It is dampening sound reflections within the room, it will do very little for keeping the sound in or from keeping sound from other rooms out. That requires way more work and generally is at the construction level. This article should be retitled. Can’t believe this is on the Home Depot website as sound proofing. That’s very misleading for ignorant viewers.
Probably one of the most useless articles HD has ever made. How convenient we can buy all of these “soundproofing” materials at their over-priced, big-box stores. News flash for anyone looking into this, there’s a difference between “sound-proofing” and “acoustically treating” a room. Move on from this. This article is lying to you about what “sound-proofing actually is. Home Depot also sells many (but not all) of the materials required for ‘actual’ sound-proofing, but that probably required them paying their drones too much to research so they opted to just try to sell you these lies instead. This article will help make your room sound better (by a little), but won’t keep those train horns, or that freeway noise out of your room at all. They didn’t even mention a door sweep so there’s still a huge air gap where the sound just comes right in. LOL!
too bad the soundproof foam looks so ugly… it is probably not super healthy to have in your living quarters either. Most if not all glues and synthetic materials evaporate harmful chemicals into the air. Seems like rugs are a healthier and prettier way for sound absorption, but it will not isolate as much sound as the synthetic materials
I went to HD today (Saturday). Picked my items, went to check out. A really long line for one cashier. I looked for self-checkout. Guess what, credit only. I walked out. HD has been pushing this more and more. I try to patronize local businesses, but do not use credit cards for under $100 worth items (more like $200). I guess I made my last trip to HD. I’ll go to the smaller hardware stores. If I have to use a credit card, I’ll just Amazon it and save the trip. I tried to contact corporate but to no avail.
This is none sense😡. Those foams are for acoustic treatment. NOT SOUND PROOFING! No professional would recommend this article. Basically sound proofing involves sealing any air gaps (making the room air tight), adding mass on the walls and de coupling added drywall or floating floors from the structure so sound won’t travel through solid objects. This article was made by their marketing team to fool you to buy materials that serves another purpose.