Concrete patio ideas are a popular choice for outdoor living spaces, offering a variety of styles and sizes to suit every style and budget. Surface concrete specialists can refinish concrete through staining, scoring, and additional paving, while adding walls creates a contained outdoor room. Change the light, frame it with a pergola, and change the edge of the patio.
Contemporary concrete patios are popular, with Urbanology Designs incorporating simple sleek furnishings into their designs. Concrete pavers come in various shapes, sizes, colors, and can be built forms, ordered ready-mix concrete, and poured the entire patio at once. Small concrete patios can also be created by building one or two small form sections and pouring them individually at a leisurely pace.
Designing and sizing a concrete patio involves several main steps, including marking and excavating, assembling and leveling forms, mixing and pouring concrete, and finishing the concrete. Concrete patios are classic and versatile, ensuring years of lounging, dining, and entertaining with minimal upkeep.
To jazz up a concrete patio, stain or paint it in a color that complements your home. A helper can pull a screed across the forms to level the concrete, which can be tilted forward and slid from side to side as you push it.
There are 11 creative and fresh concrete patio ideas, costs, care tips, and DIY options available to transform your outdoor space. Warm up a concrete patio with warm woods, woven textures, comfortable seating, and a neutral color scheme.
📹 How to Pour a Concrete backyard Patio Slab (Beginner Guide)
In this video we will be showing you how to pour a easy concrete patio slab. We will be showing you the forming and finishing of …
Do you need gravel under concrete?
Without proper gravel under concrete, it can crack, sink, bow, or crumble, and the concrete forming process may not be smoother. The lack of a proper gravel layer can also cause drainage issues below the slab, affecting the lawn and foundation. It’s not advisable to pour concrete directly on dirt, as even compacted soil isn’t strong enough to maintain concrete’s form. However, concrete can be poured over concrete with proper bonding agents and a clear slab below.
Is rebar necessary for concrete patio?
Concrete patios can be built without rebar, but it is not recommended as it can cause cracks and unevenness, leading to premature replacement. Permits for building a concrete patio depend on the location and the type of patio. On-grade patios or those less than 30 inches from the ground may not require a permit, but excavation permits may be necessary to avoid digging in utility pipes or cables. Above-grade patios may require a permit, and permits may be required in areas with development restrictions, if structural changes interfere with land zoning regulations, if the patio is covered, or if lighting provisions are added. It is essential to obtain a permit for any concrete patio construction to ensure safety and compliance with local regulations.
Can you pour concrete directly on dirt?
Pouring concrete over dirt is not recommended due to poor support, moisture issues, and uneven surfaces. Instead, remove 100mm of soil, compact the area, add a 50mm layer of roadbase or crushed aggregate, and roll out builder’s plastic. Form pathway sides and determine expansion joints for long lengths to prevent cracking. Add rebar or mesh before pouring slabs. The compaction difference between this guide and your project is the main factor, and it’s recommended to pour a concrete slab directly over dirt for a more solid base.
How much does it cost to pour a 24×24 slab of concrete?
The financial implications of pouring a 24×24 concrete slab are considerable, with costs ranging from $2, 304 to $4, 608. This estimation takes into account the costs associated with the materials, labor, and the thickness of the slab, which is typically six inches. A concrete garage floor should be a minimum of four to six inches in thickness to accommodate vehicles of a modest size, such as a typical two-car garage. The optimal foundation for a garage slab is a gravel base, as it is cost-effective, provides optimal drainage, and offers stability.
Do you need rebar for 4 inch patio slab?
Concrete slabs or driveway pads don’t need reinforcing for vehicles, light trucks, or lounge chairs. However, rebar is recommended for heavy machinery, heavy-duty cars, hot tubs, spas, and concrete pizza ovens. Reinforcement is also recommended for concrete that rests on disturbed or weak ground. Rebar strengthens concrete by reducing cracking and allowing it to withstand weight, vibration, tensile stresses, and soil shifts. It prevents horizontal, vertical, and lateral separation or movement, reducing the likelihood of cracking and separation under tensile stresses and expansion/contraction forces.
How can I make my concrete path more attractive?
Decorative concrete is a popular and versatile option for creating beautiful and practical sidewalks. With nearly unlimited patterns and colors, concrete stamps can be used to coordinate with various design styles, such as modern, rustic, industrial, or coastal. Using patterns like reclaimed wood, brick, flagstone, and slate, a concrete walkway can replicate the look of other materials. The addition of edging, borders, medallions, and accents can elevate any walkway from boring to a showstopper. Proline offers high-quality products, such as seamless magnetic pattern concrete stamps, which are lightweight, easy to use, and provide increased coverage without joint touch-ups or squeeze-outs.
How much for a 30×30 concrete slab?
Concrete slab projects typically cost between $3, 600 and $7, 200, with homeowners paying around $5, 400 on average. These slabs are used to support the weight of cars, sheds, patios, and houses. The cost of concrete slabs varies by size, grade, finishing materials, permits, removal of old concrete, repairs, subbase preparation, and the type of project. The cost of concrete slabs can be reduced by choosing the right type of concrete, such as all-purpose, high-strength, crack-resistant, reinforced, or precast concrete. The first step in adding a new feature, such as building an addition or finishing a basement, is often the pouring of a concrete slab.
How thick does a concrete slab need to be for a patio?
When pouring a concrete patio, homeowners often underestimate the thickness of the slab needed for safety. A minimum thickness of 4 inches is recommended, but heavier furniture may require a 6- to 8-inch thickness. A 2- to 3-inch base of gravel, sand, or limestone is also necessary. To ensure a safe patio, order slightly more than enough and return extra bags if needed.
Choosing the right type of concrete is crucial, as there are thousands of options available. Choose from quick-setting, low-heat, or sulfates-resisting cement, blast furnace slag, high alumina, or air entraining. Ensure the strength of the concrete is 4, 000-4, 500 psi after a one-month cure. Remember to order slightly more than enough and return extra bags if needed.
How do you make a concrete patio look nice?
Concrete patios can be made more attractive by refinishing the surface, adding walls, changing the light, framing the space with a pergola, and changing the edge. Concrete specialists can help with staining, scoring, and additional paving. Adding walls, changing the light, framing the space with a pergola, and changing the edge can also help revive a patio and create a more interesting outdoor living space. Removing concrete can be expensive due to the labor cost and disposal fee.
Instead of starting from scratch, consider using what you have on hand to change the appearance of your concrete patio. Landscape Architects in Texas and Florida can create spaces for quiet reflection and lush gardens using native plant palettes and sustainable stormwater techniques.
Is painting a concrete patio a good idea?
Painting versus staining is a popular choice for concrete patios due to its ease of DIY and ability to cover up discolorations and stains. However, painting is less durable than staining, as it can fade, chip, and be damaged over time. The choice depends on factors such as time and resources to hire a professional for staining and the level of durability required. Mild climates may not be affected by painting, while harsh winters or frequent use may necessitate staining.
Regardless, both methods will result in an updated, unique patio that will be enjoyed for years to come. Ultimately, the choice between painting or staining will depend on the specific needs and climate.
📹 How to Pour a Concrete Slab for Beginners DIY
WE HAD A MASSIVE DRIVEWAY POUR IN THE FRONTYARD THIS DAY WHICH IS WHY THERE WAS SO MANY GUYS* In this …
I’m an engineer and we always specify a gravel base under concrete pads for proper drainage and to help avoid sinking. Surprised that I see so many articles that don’t use a gravel base. At least you guys are using rebar though! People don’t use rebar or welded wire fabric, and then wonder why their concrete cracks. 🤔
Getting hard quicker is a good thing of you want to keep your lady happy! 😂 Great job as usual. Nice to help out your son like that. The devil is in the details. I love how you explain the different mixes and the rationale for your choices when doing the finishing. So many things to consider. Knowledge and experience is what separates the real pros from the rest.
This is why you pay for professional finish carpenters and concrete finishers. I have no problem upseIIing and outseIIing competition to my customers, its my duty to inform my client’s of the nuances in craftsmanship. You get reaI happy returning customers and tons of referrals. THIS guy would be on everyone’s ‘approved’ Iist. Bet he’s booked out for months in advance, even for the year. Good stuff!
My contractor installed a 50’x7′ stamped concrete patio but he made two “mistakes”. First there is no slope whatsoever so the water sits by the house wall; second the slab depth is only 2″ even though our agreement was to be 4″. His solution to both is to cut a trench in the middle of the patio to move the water away from the wall. is this a viable solution and is 2″ depth even acceptable in the industry ?
Concrete is the absolute best building material! The way it forms, the strength & the durability are just wonderful. The finishing is an absolute joy to watch. Thanks for sharing! It makes me want to do some of this myself – may be a smaller job a single person can handle? A larger job is impossible without an army of workers all knowing what their role is & possessing the requisite skills all picked up on the job or is there a “cement school” kind of thing?
It would be so helpful if you actually explained what you are doing, how, and why. How do you tell whether dirt needs mechanical compaction or not? How do you tie rebar? Why do you put extra rebar at the corners and when is that necessary? What does “Dobey it up” mean, and when is it necessary to do that? Etc, etc, etc. You clearly know your stuff, but this is hardly what I’d call a “beginner guide”.
I fear the quality of your articles are going down some. The head mounted GoPro gives less than best quality. The movement causes seasickness. Since you are editing clips together, cut some of the slop on the ends. Who needs to see camera movement when it doesn’t add anything important? I like to watch construction projects, but not at the expensive of headache and nausea caused by sloppy camera work. We should strive to improve our camera work just like construction techniques.
Hi there I have a question for you. I have a contractor in Nevada that’s putting in a patio in our backyard and we have an RV storage we’re building and he says we don’t need rebar in the concrete for a boat and JetSki‘s. He says that concrete can hold up to 10,000 pounds without any rebar what do you think?
yeah Dave.. I’m doing the same thing this weekend.. Hopefully.. I need to extend the existing patio about 12×14 I appreciate the ‘inspiration’ as I will need it! Just me and a electric mixer and about 100 bags of quick crete .. I’m 60 yrs old.. I might just be able to do it for the ‘last time’.. hahah.. Now if i wasn’t so cheap, I would hire someone to do it for me but I’m cheap.. and there’s no way around that.. Thanks buddy.. Watched a lot of your shows over the last couple years on this stuff. DMAX
Hola Senor Odell, great article with interesting details. Do you recommend the use of drainage inside the concrete, or using a little bit of slope in an angle on the concrete floor? Looking forward to hearing from you. I have a project for my back yard. Want to do it before the winter of this year, 2023. I am going to request for a free estimate when the time comes. Thank you.
Can you give me an idea about how much this cost the home owner? I wanted to help a friend build a composite deck on a level yard but wouldn’t want to have to go through getting a town permit and then have them say it has to be built on top of a cement slab to be legal. I’d just do the cement slab and slip the deck. Thank you. Nice work by the way!
I know moneys tight for some people and everybody has their own home improvement plan but IMO that patio would have looked awesome if it ran a bit wider along the length of the home both directions. I’ve learned when pouring concrete customers trying to pinch pennies tend to send back paid unused material or could filled up the truck a little bit more for darn near the same price. They charge a minimum load in some places anyway trucks coming might as well take advantage but as always nice job Odell…
So I notice you mostly do residential work. Do you ever have trouble getting homeowners to pay you? I assume you ask for half up front or something like that. Just curious because I see it happen too often, seems like people get more and more rude as the years go by and feel they have the right to rip you off.
Hi, got a question about cement, I live in southern Utah and my concrete flakes off in places. The concrete company that makes it said that is normal here because of the weather cold then warm. It has fiberglass in it no rebar. Is this really what is going to happen as the years go by? It is less than a year old
I am doing a 21’x16′ patio extension off of the house and existing patio. I plan on installing a screen enclosure with metal roof afterwards and was told by a neighbor that I would need to dig down a foot along the perimeter, by about 8″ wide, for the footer. Does that sound about right? Some people that I have asked have said that I need to use base gravel and a moisture barrier while some have told me that it isn’t necessary. Would you be able to clear up some of my questions for me? Thank you in advance and for posting these kind of articles. I am located in sunny Florida.
Is a 1/2 inch rock base better to pour on or just go on top of dirt? I had two companies dis me this week one was a no show bid and the other took my block size and phone number to “call back” after he got back to office. As always, I think I have to do this myself. Your articles are very informative.
Ixnay on that head camera setup! I couldn’t watch the article as it causes motion sickness with the chaotic head movement. Another person I know who has watched your articles since we both were within the first 2K subscribers couldn’t view it either because of the shaky camera movement. Love your articles and hate to have to look elsewhere for our concrete fun and education — and sometimes entertainment…
Nice work. Im doing more & more flatwork as a builder mostly just because I like it. Do you have a article on screeding, through to final finish? It may seem elementary to you but I want to be able to self perform larger & larger pours. Foundations Ive got down but flatwork is a whole other animal. Thx.
1st and foremost happy Thanksgiving for my family to yours I was overlooking this article and I found something very odd why didn’t the homeowner just make one big patio if you notice that back door the patio doesn’t go from 1 into another a goes from 1 in right to the middle and stops if I was a homeowner I think I really meant it to you once before do it right the 1st time and then you 1 had to come back and repeat yourself again
Can’t for the life of me get my edges smooth, particularly at the corners. Yours looks like smooth butter, mine looks like the surface of the moon. I can get pretty good cream in the middle of the slab for a nice finish, just not the edges. Any advice? I’ve tried tapping the forms but it just seems so dry and rocky on my corners and edges.
Wrong about flyash. In this case of wanting a faster set because of rain I agree with your decision of going with a straight cement mix, because it will set faster. However, Flyash is not a “substitute”. And today’s flyash standards are very consistent and do not cause corrosion or whatever you were saying, it sounds like something some old finisher who retired before pumps where invented would say; flyash actually reduces the “concrete cancer” known as alkali-silica reaction. Flyash does not replace the cement but is added to it… they have a very similar structure which aids in workability in placing fresh concrete, as well as making denser, less permeable concrete.. plus flyash reacts with a byproduct of the cement hydration to make flyash a cemetitious substance as well. Thus having a higher strength than straight cement in the long run. The only negatives: 1) It retards set times (only bad in winter or in your situation when you need it to “go off”) In the summer this is a huge plus! 2) It messes with the air content.. but every Ready-mix supplier knows this, and knows how much air to put in straight cement and flyash mixes unless they are just the most oblivious startup plant that you should never do business with.
Should state this only applies in warm weather climates. Here in Wisconsin that slab would crack after the first or second winter. Gotta have stone underneath to drain off the water or the freeze cycle will lift that slab right around the old patio. Rebar will keep the pieces together, but it will crack without aggregate underneath. 10 years concrete laborer here in the great white north. 🙂
I plan on building a 30 x 25 shed. What kind of foundation would you recommend? Is it overkill to put in footers? Can I stick with just a 4 inch slab? We are trying to be cost effective, however, we are willing to pay the extra cost if our building needs extra structural support. How much are we looking at average for a slab this size. Huge fan of your work. Thanks
That looked great. Wondering if I can get some input/advice for my own project. First, if I were to lay new concrete over existing concrete how thin can it be over the existing concrete? I have 100 year old driveway where there is only cement where the wheels of a car contact the ground. The area in between is dirt which I’d like to fill with cement. I’d like to make it a solid cement driveway and not have to sledgehammer the existing old concrete out. I also want to extend it out so it would be a bit wider beyond the existing old cement. I’d like to know how thin I can safely lay new cement over the old because our driveway goes out onto a city sidewalk. Would using your idea to make my driveway a solid cement driveway work? Or would it be best to take everything out?
Can you pour concrete right up against the house or do you need to prep the house in any way? I know you can’t pour it against siding and need to have space between bottom of siding, but what about the concrete pad the house may sit on? Should you tie it in or just pour up to it? And what about pouring at least part way, if not all the way, under a mobile home?
is there a list of tools to use. cause i couldn’t figure out what you were saying something about a bowl float and what was used to cut the joint? what was used for the edge? whats the name of the concrete? something about pea gravel and mesh. what is rotting it off? what is frezno and other trowels? you had to do a broom on the edge? is that the push broom 2 minutes earlier? sorry i am a newbie. so beginner beginner.. thanks
Thank you for allowing those of us who need this information as sometimes we are not in the position to hire your services at our loss, how ever for someone like me who’s father saw to it that I learned as much and do as much physical work growing up as needed i appreciate your teaching as I have already put it to use in my yard.
Question: I have a foundation, which I inherited a few decades ago and was poured too low at a low point in the yard so that, when it rains, water flows into the shop. Can I just pour a new foundation over it to raise the foundation for the building, do I have to tear the first foundation up before pouring the new foundation, or can I put something in the first foundation like bolts or rebar to tie them together so the second foundation won’t tend to move on top of the first foundation? The first foundation has no cracks and is good except that it is too low in a place where water will run into the building when it rains. It needs to be raised at least 3 to 4 inches and they would both be 20 ft x 30 ft. Thanks.
Great work! I have a crack on the edge just like you said when city workers didn’t use any rebar. Her claim was that since it’s only a 4 inch hole, you don’t need rebar. At 7 inches or more is when this dumb city worker uses rebar. I’m so annoyed at this easily avoided crack but that’s the City for you, waste our taxes but can’t splurge on a simple accessory
I’m going to be very limited in what I have available. Basically, a bag of lime, water carried in by the galleon jug and raw sand from the location. I need all the advice I can get. I’m going to be in a thickly wooded area in very sandy soil, so I’m going to use a rake to get the forest detris clear of the sand and then ‘harvest’ sand from the site. Here’s the question, for a primitive concrete, how much lime to how much water and how much of that mixture to sand? I need an area about 15′ x 15′ and at least a foot thick. Do I do this in layers? How many and how thick each? There is no vehicle access to the location.
Hi David, Love your articles, learning a lot. I’ve decided to venture into my first project of extending my patio on both sides. From perusal numerous of your articles I feel I got the just of it. My question is that I live in FL and have plenty of soft sugar sand. Will that play a difference in anyway to my site prep? Should I be laying out some gravel before my pour? Or will I be fine with the sugar sand as a base? Again, thank you for all these articles! You have no idea what an asset they are!
Mr. Odell. Please give me some advice! I’m looking for options to build a woodworking shop floor. It’s 26 x 49 ft. I’m interested in the floor being level (very flat) and solid (that doesn’t bounce under pounding) and pressure (weight of machines and load) doesn’t get it out of level. It sounds like a place for a concrete slab, doesn’t it? I know that would be the best option for what I want, but I’m in the lower side of the budget range, so I’m looking for options! I can build with wood and concrete piers, but I’ve never worked on concrete slab forming and pouring before. So, could you, please suggest me maybe a concrete slab design which is light and low cost? Maybe filled with rocks to keep concrete mix low? I’d like a 5 inches thick slab. Thank you a lot in advance. Btw, your articles are very, very helpful 🙂
Now what about the home owner who is a beginner and wants to do this with a wheel barrow, 60 # bags of concrete by himself? That is what beginners try to do….. After hoeing 12 bags of concrete, in the wheel barrow, secreting the 12 bags, they find out that a section at a time is their only hope, but too late, they don’t have the job sectioned off and lack the 2x4s to do so…. That is a beginner! So, they go in, get some beer and call their Concrete Buddy and offer beer for help.
I have a 5 car individual car port at my house (4 drivers, 4 cars) and I use the garage on the far end for myself but there’s two massive cracks in the concrete. I don’t know when the concrete was poured nor when it cracked but there is a significant heigh difference in level and slope. I use the garage as a gym but covered the concrete with 4 layers of sport mat surface and the question I have is, so I concrete over everything, concrete just the crack, concrete enough space to make it all level, remove ALL of the concrete and lay a brand new slab, or just build a 4″ wood deck subfloor to put my gym mats on; flat.
Thanks for taking the time to pout this article up online. Can i ask a few questions (in the UK btw): Why did you split it into two bits? Does the gap go all the way through the depth so the two slabs are not touching? You mentioned a slope away from house, how on earth do you level the concrete whilst creating a small but even slope? I have an existing garage concrete floor and am looking to extend it, do i need to ensure concrete is same/similar due to expansion/cracking etc. What does the rebar do in terms of the concrete properties? Obvious its stronger but does it increase its elasticity? (I ask due to the small ramp up (4-6″ maybe) from the public road surface to the concrete is currently cracked and damaged, water gets between mortar and road)
i have poured concrete a few times with family…. not alone…I have a old tiny brick house 1888 to be exact that somone poured A LOT of concrete around the concrete is broken and in poor repair, also they made these concrete/brick/ clay/re-barb th/sandstone/tile monoliths to be “artistic” (looks hideous actually) much of the concrete is cracked and water runs toward the house as the back yard is built up compared to the concrete and it seems they didn’t angle the concrete to slope away from the house home is only 16′ wide and I have a 10′ passage next to the side of the house to work with meh i guess the length is 64′ i have a tiny house, (basement always getting wet), i wanted to put a drain down the side, there is also on the side of the 10′ space on the side a retaining wall between my neighbors (much higher yard) and this 10′ space i would like to put in a french drain from the back yard down this way for the water to drain how far should i stay from the retaining wall?
Nice vid! Nice job! I would like to pour new concrete on my roof teracce (flat surface ~200sq feet). Old concrete is gone. Cracked (almost turned into sand) and leaking. What tickness or hight you recomend to pour. Do I need a rebar mesh? After pouring new concrete I intend to cover it with hydro insulation. Thanks
I like your article. Very informative. However I have a question. When I spoke the Town tax Assessor he said that any concrete or cement patio using a footing would be taxable. With the exception of the rebar that you used to keep the cement slab from cracking I did not see anything resembling a footing and you didn’t mention anything about that. Any information that you have about this issue is most appreciated. Thanks
Very cool article. I’ve done small slabs for electrical monument signs and decided to try and do a pad on the side of my house for my boat. Would a 6″ deep slab be deep enough for a boat with about 1100 – 1200 lb weight? I’m in California and not sure with all the quake issues, although where I live may not be much of a problem. So I’m familiar with concrete, just not with structural details for this type.
A few things to think about….A slight pitch is always good for water run-off, provided it is “away” from the home… I have seen newbies build decks to only find out later that the deck is slightly pitched towards the house….then then wonder why the basement has a couple inches of water ..in other case the water collection against home then into footing eroded the dirt and left voids…
Great article capturing obviously experts who know what theyre doing. Now can you post something for “begginers”? I have a similar pour/installment in my back yard needing to be done. What this article tells me is that I need to bypass my inner DIYer and hire somebody to do it. Me, myself and I with my little wheel barrow are not going to make it happen.
If you would have put a vapor barrier under it, it would dry evenly and not bond with the existing concrete slab. Bonding with the slab below creates tension….IE cracks. You want the new slab to be able to slip and slide on top of the old slab to prevent cracks. Any consideration for placing the control joints in pleasing locations….IE at the edges of the sliding doors? Oh, and the concrete cracks when you pour over dirt right next to concrete because the dirt will compress over time due to the weight of the concrete. Replacing that dirt w/ sand and gravel would keep that from compressing.