Framing 101 is a comprehensive guide on the process of framing interior walls, covering the basics of selecting the wall’s location, determining the wall’s dimensions, and securing it to the floor and ceiling joists. This article is designed for those who want to add functionality to a room with unused space, such as a basement, bathroom, or partition wall. Framing interior walls is a crucial task for any construction project, as it goes beyond just installing the walls and setting them in place. Non-load-bearing interior walls do not require footings and are typically built on top of the existing floor structure.
The guide provides step-by-step instructions on building a wall, including planning the interior wall, drawing the plan, marking floors, cutting the top and base plates, and marking up the top and base plates for vertical framing. It also provides instructions on measuring accurately, laying the wall out, and building the new wall properly.
The guide also covers the steps needed to build a partition wall, including the tools needed for the job. A framed wall requires vertical studs every 16 inches (or 24 inches, in some cases) and two top plates and one bottom plate.
📹 How to FRAME a Wall – 3 EASY STEPS
In this breakdown, we give you a step by step process to properly and safely construct a wall. Follow along as Third Generation …
What is the cheapest way to build an interior wall?
The most cost-effective method for building an interior wall is using light structural timber and drywall, while heavy timber or metal beams may be necessary for load-bearing or exterior walls. Framing an interior wall takes 2 to 6 hours, depending on the size, accessibility, and complexity of the job. Blocking is required for walls higher than 10 feet to prevent fire spread and bending, and is also used for attaching handrails or cabinets.
Is bricklaying difficult?
Bricklaying is a challenging occupation that necessitates a high degree of technical proficiency to consistently and accurately place the appropriate quantity of mortar and bricks, ensuring the wall is vertically plumb and level with a uniform mortar joint. These tasks can be particularly demanding for individuals over the age of 50, due to the physical requirements and the precision required in the work.
How do you build an interior wall step by step?
Building a wall can add privacy, reduce noise, and transform spaces. It can be done for around $200 and takes a day or two. A non-load-bearing wall consists of two-by-fours for the framework and drywall sheets for covering it. Do-it-yourselfers can build a wall by taking the project step by step. Many municipalities require a building permit for this project, even with a non-load-bearing wall. To build a wall, locate the wall, mark stud locations, fasten the plates, measure and cut the studs, nail them in place, hang the drywall, and fill the screw holes.
How are interior walls framed?
Vertical wall framing involves seven vertical two-by-four studs per 8 feet of wall, spaced 16 or 24 inches apart according to local codes and project requirements. Top plates parallel the bottom plate, connecting to the tops of the vertical studs and the ceiling. Sheathing, either drywall panels for interiors or plywood or OSB sheets for exteriors, plays an important role in strengthening the framing. It is generally safe to space studs every 16 inches. Sheathing is not technically part of the framing process.
How to frame a wall for beginners?
To frame a wall, start by cutting nine pieces of 2×4 boards. Measure the wall height from the ceiling plate to the floor and cut the plates and studs to length. Mark stud spacing, position the studs, and add blocking. The process takes about an hour, with an intermediate skill level and an estimated cost of $200 to $640. You can also assemble the pieces on the floor, nailing through the bottom and top plates directly into the studs. This method is easier than toenailing and allows you to tip the wall up and move it into position. The total time for this process is 1 hour.
Do interior walls need drywall?
Diffuse board, also referred to as wallboard or gypsum board, is a lightweight material utilized in interior construction projects. It is available in panels and can be readily attached to studs to construct walls. The selection of an appropriate material is contingent upon the particular requirements of the project in question.
Can you build a wall without foundations?
Interlocking Concrete Blocks are a lightweight retaining wall material that doesn’t require foundations due to their immense weight. These blocks can be used in various situations over traditional brick and mortar builds and other materials. They have studs and recesses at the top and bottom, allowing them to join together without mortar. The hold provided by these blocks is almost impossible to detach without heavy machinery. The durable nature of concrete allows for the creation of structurally sound, reliable, and weatherproof structures that are extremely heavy.
How to build a wall for beginners?
The process of building a garden involves several steps, including digging out the foundation, laying the foundation, setting the string level, preparing the mortar, building the first course, building the wall, pointing the joints, and adding coping stones. It is crucial to wear appropriate safety protection, such as protective gloves and long sleeves, as wet mortar can burn exposed skin. Before starting the project, read our advice to ensure you are fully prepared with everything needed to complete your perfect garden.
Can I build a wall myself?
Building a brick wall requires practice and proper technique, including creating a solid foundation and achieving the right mortar consistency. While professional work is necessary for structural or load-bearing masonry walls, DIY approaches can save money and expand experience. A step-by-step guide can help you get started, and you can make additional aesthetic or functional choices along the way.
Materials needed for building a brick wall include a shovel, hammer, bolster, spirit level, shoevel, wheelbarrow, bricks, string and clamps, and a dry bristle brush. By following this guide, you can create a sturdy, long-lasting brick wall that adds to your home’s aesthetic appeal.
Can I build a wall without foundation?
Foundations are essential for building structures to ensure stability and prevent compromise by weather and natural changes. They are typically created on flat, level land to prevent imbalance and potential slanting or falling. Building professionals can create foundations for structures, but it is not necessary to do so yourself. Some structures may require foundation placement, and reputable professionals will never compromise their reputation or career by overlooking health and safety requirements. Therefore, foundations are crucial for ensuring the stability and safety of structures being built on unstable land.
How many 2×4 to frame a wall?
The formula for determining the number of studs needed for a wall is (Wall Width / On-Center Spacing) + 1. For a 10′ wide wall with 16″ spacing, the number of studs needed is (10/1. 33)+1 or (120/16)+1. To determine the number of studs for top and bottom plates, you need to decide if you want a single stud plate or more, or if you want studs layered together for each plate. The final result is 8. 5 studs needed.
📹 How To: Frame a 16″ O.C. Wall! (Most Common Wood Framing Method)
In this video, I teach you how to frame a 16″ o.c. wall. From bottom plates to top plates, crowning studs and blocking for added …
This is the first article I’ve seen of yours. I have to tell you I’ve been in the trades for years as a carpenter. I always thought it would be odd to watch someone do what I’ve done for so many years. But man you tell so many good points. It was awesome to watch your article. I think you would be awesome as a teacher of the trade! Great article!
I’ve framed a house or three in my day. A few suggestions. At 2:45, might want use a whole 2×4 for your corner stud, especially in a article of framing a wall. When measuring the top plate, when you come to a corner and there will be a 2×4 wall intersecting, you may want to hold the top plate back 3 3/4″ from flush so the future wall has an area for its top plate to overlap and fasten to for strength. Also when the end of the wall is a single stud, it helps to let the top plate hang over the lower plate by 3 1/4″ to connect to the plate above a corner or wall lead. Pre cuts are usually 92 5/8″. After 3 plates, deducting for drywall and flooring, you have roughly 8 feet ceilings. Besides for that, looks good. And thank you for mentioning keeping hands away from nailing areas. I even go as far as shooting the lower nail first, then pulling my fully away to shoot the top nail. Moving fast with framing, the weight of the nail gun, and occasionally getting just a tad sloppy from the monotony of it, that top nail sometimes hits just a tad too high and skips above the board. If your hand is right there 8″ away, well, you my have a little pain right quick.
I’m stoked that smart young men like this are working in the trades…his Dad has taught him well….I’ve been a contractor in CA for over 20 years and worked with many awesome large and small crews (commercial and residential)…from what I see in these articles….this young man is an excellent carpenter, knowledgeable and has been taught correctly. He would out frame most of the men I have worked with…and could hang with my crew any day. I came to this site to find an online source to help train my boys who are 14 and 15 and interested in the trades….and subsequently learned a few things myself….you’re a fool if you think can’t learn from others…young or old. Keep up the good work Matt! ……and ignore the negative comments from the losers who are sitting on the couch during the workday wishing they had your attitude and skill set.
I’m a laborer, just started in the trade, and saved up and purchased my first tool set with the hopes of improving my use around the jobsite. I decided to look up how to frame and came across this article first. When I compare what I have seen in the past 3 months to the amount of knowledge and respect in this article alone, I am inspired as hell to someday work with a team of people like you. Thank you for the great article, leadership and for providing an example of excellence to which I can aspire. Cheers man! Subbed, and on to the next article… I’ll remember, “Think about other trades” and “my work is my signature.”
Matt, I am the carpentry instructor at a vocational high school In Massachusetts. I stumbled on to your articles a couple of weeks ago while doing research for on line education. Covid19 has brought school to a standstill so I am doing my best to keep the students engaged as they trudge through a state wide quarantine. I just wanted to say that your youth has been a real draw for the students. I am also happy to see that you have high standards ( your work is your signature). Keep up the good work. I will be using more of your articles as supplemental demonstration material..
I love the perfection and attention to detail. I can’t stand sloppy. I’m a middle-aged woman building my own shed (pretty much on my own) and I’m extremely picky about square corners, efficiency, using good materials, and a bit of overkill when building- for snow loads and longevity. I really appreciate this article. You’re a real pro and I would hire you in a heartbeat.
When you worked in various trades for many years respecting other trades comes easy. I was a carpenter and an electrician. I will say we never marked studs like that we just put one line and a mark next to the line on the side the stud goes. When you frame large homes marking two lines like that would piss off the foreman back in the 90s time is money.
Hi Matt, Your articles are great. So much information clearly delivered. One question.. you build the wall with the studs crown up and talk about keeping the top flush for drywall. But to me it appears your California corner is facing the other way and the inside of your wall is facing down? All the best from London, UK
Youre work is your signature. I wish this kid would have framed my house. Sub contractors today are horrible. From all aspects. But wait for the comments down below of those claiming how good they are. I deal with builders in 5 states and they all are challenged to find not only good subcontractors but those who understand plans and building properly. That includes plumbers, tilers, framers, dry wallers… hire well or you will deal with problems as long as you own the home and these guys will race down the freeway in their unnecessarily jacked up trucks, or should I say mall crawlers.
Thanks as this content is fantastic. What happens when studs won’t space evenly upon faming ( i’m left with too big a gap). Did you use a calculation when spacing out your studs evenly? Will one side just have to a bit shorter or add a extra stud at the end? I’ve a 18 ft trailer I would like to frame. Any insight greatly appreciated, thanks
Very well done article – clear spoken instructions, great progression of steps. I really appreciate the way in which you composed the article, and appreciate the way you presented the information. I LOVE the “extra” steps – we call that “Old School” caution – “Your work is your signature” AMEN to that! Will be using your instruction to do my own construction <3
Great article, I have no carpentry experience, this helps. Although I struggle with the terms standard as in measurements in the trade. Not being in the trade or knowing, where do us novice people find thing like support boards at 3’6″ then 4’6″. And a California corner? Seen them but it was never explained. So thank you. If someone could answer on how to find these standard building measurements, that would be great. I can’t build a birdhouse but want to try. Thanks.
This is a stupid question but do you have a article on what side to cut on for wood? Like if you are trying to make a frame and need 4 feet and draw the line then cut on the line for some reason mine never measure out right. I hope that makes sense. I know there are time to cut to the right and the left but for some reason it’s so confusing to me lol. Learning wood working fyi my grandfather was a master cabinet maker up north.
Nice article. Question though- Shouldn’t your double top plate be shorter by 3.5 or 5.5 inches, depending on stud width, to tie into the wall it will intersect at the corners? Usually the intersecting wall’s double top plate overlaps onto the other wall’s top plate. Your full length double top plate method would not be to code in Canada or US?
I have a background in custom wood furniture making and I have started doing a little framing with a small crew. For me the loose tolerances mess with my head even though it works. For example the quick way of cutting a block loses the width of the kerf of the saw blade and there’s an ⅛ of wiggle room with the other blocking. Is this just to compensate for variations in stud thickness?
I’m no framer but I am an OCD DIYer (haha), and I must say, your explanation and reasoning was perfection. I’ve seen many articles on “how to…” for so many things and I wish I could find one of you for each trade of construction. I appreciate the time and effort you put into your work as well as what was put I to making this article.
There is a YT er called the Essential Craftsman who has great articles out. One thing he does when you have a repetitive cut on several boards is he marks the first board, stacks a few under it he needs for the same cut (making sure he lines one end up) and drops his saw blade just enough to scar the underneath board, thus marking or measuring the board underneath as he cuts. No need to re measure each board. He wastes no time. Your articles are excellent for people who need basic skills (like me) to learn to build chicken coops
Layout your top plate too for all your ceiling joists. Layout begins at the first sill and carry through to the roof. Doing it makes all the studs line up. If your laying out front and rear walls and joists the rear will be 15-1/4″ and go with the roof rafters I’ve the studs and C joists offset. Then the front of the house will be 15-1/4″ and back and the offset will allow front and rear joists and c joists to overlap at the center. Another quickie is match your interior walls to the front back and sides in layout. Basically when you look through the stud bays they should all line up from end to end. A lot easier for the other trades to run conduits and ducts etc versus winding through random stud layout even it they’re 16″ oc.
I’m confused. Measuring from the outside of the plate to the center of the first stud at 16″ will not make 16″ on center for those two studs. It works down the line, but not for that first stud. Is there a reason for doing it this way? Seems everyone does it like this, but I’m confused why (I’m new).
Just a reminder @ 8:16 Matt had his hand at close proximity to the nail impact. I’m just saying to be very careful because I seen cases of finger perforation to the bone and it’s not a pretty sight and for the workers that need to clean the mess. A lot of people use their feet aswell, it’s the same thing as your hand. Just a tip. I would make a handle using leftover pieces of 2×4 and make the shape of a fork. It works really well and I also added notches so that it’s even when you nail it. Just a tip guys, I don’t want to see more fingers getting stabbed. Thank you and enjoy
40 years of experience .. I suggest not nailing directly above the stud on the second top plate .. Use the side of the stud visually and cant in the angle slightly ..Probability is you will on occasion hit the head of the nail on the first top plate, shear out and sometimes shock the nail gun and jam it .. .. Us “Old Timers ” .. I think I might have worked with some clowns back in the days .. That laid out centers .. Mine has always been 15.25″ set ahead or 16.75 ” set back .. One line is needed .. Too much cluttered markings and The Harvey Wallbanger you just laid put for will be so confused and have a window header upside down .. an swing the plates around til it dawns on them they are building everything like a parallelogram ..
Grew up helping my Pop build and remodel houses. Had my general contractor’s license for around 15 years. Didn’t do much building because I had a high-paying and good benefit job otherwise, so I finally let them go. This is the first time I had ever been shown the California Corner. I have not seen this used here in NC but I’m perusal this to refresh my memory for a basement project. You’re never too old to learn..
Have you ever tried using old, 1st generation carbide circular saw blades on new saws?? I mean the 7″ diameter, 1/8th inch thick 1980s-ish ones that were the first to use carbide cutters instead of regular steel? I still have a few from my grandfather’s circular saw(metal-body frame saw), and they were all 7″, no 7-1/4″ since that’s what the saws took then. I still have a few I saved from when my Grandfather passed, still new in package 30+ years old, I’d send you one free if you wanted to test one for a framing session for your fans and just note any differences..if it lasts longer, cuts faster/slower, feels more rugged, etc.
Man what a awesome article. I’m a plumber and what you said about getting pipe through the top plate man oh my lord I can’t tell you how frustrating it is that framers don’t think about the plumber. I ruin bits all the time cause even if you look the nails are still in there and you can’t see them. I’m wanting to learn more about framing I want to be able to do everything. This article was great man and very well instructed!
My wife and I just were discussing about building a home not 1 hour ago. I come home and see this article in my recommend. I can say with great conviction that I would be proud to have you framing our house. Your attention to detail is next level. My favorite part about this whole article is the comment you made about looking out for your fellow trades. So many people get hung up on doing the job and moving on, that they never take other trades into consideration. Very well done!
Not being racist here but my wife’s cousin is a building inspector for a private firm and travels all over the place, he would tel me about houses being built by companies who hire illegals, and those houses are literally screwed up, their would be countertops that a can just rolls down, window frames that are crooked so the windows cant be installed, I have family that did construction and I used to help them back when I was 18, and the rule as everyone knows is measure all the boards before cutting, my wife’s cousin said that these guys would cut one board then stack it on top of another and then cut it and so on and so on, and by the time they had all the boards cut they were getting longer and longer. I’m perusal these articles because I want to build a garage for my house and this is helping me to further learn, the only thing that new to me is everyone is using nail guns now, back in the 80’s it was all about slinging a 20oz hammer. Thanx for the tips and advice. Saw your about info and your in my area! Central Calif. Keep up the good work brother.
I have a question. 4:30 if you nailed directly on top of the stud, won’t you hit the nail you just put over there? Also I remember the code required 3nail for the 3 1/4 0.131 for the stud instead of 2. That make it even harder not hit the previous nails. Thanks for your article. I never done any framing work. I will try to diy my very first time tomorrow.
One thing I’m noticing at 0:38 is when you’re measuring 15 1/4″ from the end of the board, once you put that first stud on the end later in the article, the thickness of that end stud is going to take up 1.5″ of that 15 1/4″ space. Because I like to use rock wool insulation pieces which are 15 1/4″ wide, I wouldn’t get a perfect fit on the ends because of this. To remedy this, you should put a temporary end piece (2×4 stud) in place at the end, and then put your tape measure up to the side of the end piece and start from there so that every space is 15 1/4″ (except for the very last one where the wall ends). Otherwise both ends of the wall will be short of 15 1/4″ vs just one end.
Hello, I’m new to framing and carpentry but confident in my abilities. I purchased a vacant lot where I intend to build a 1 story house. I plan to do all the framing and carpentry myself and some friends to save a ton of money. The problem is that the lot is 110 miles from where I live and it would be annoying to travel that much every day until the framing is completed. My dad has a house near where I live with a good back yard space. Would it make sense to frame up all the exterior walls and deliver them by a rented truck day and quickly stand them up on the foundation? I know this is unconventional but I’m thinking that this can also be more efficient time wise as well since I can start building the walls elsewhere a lot sooner as the foundation is being formed. I’m wondering if anyone has done that or thought of that. Please share your thoughts and experiences as well as anything that I should be cautious of. Thank you.
This only for outside or inside walls? Also, if I want a 9ft ceiling, is that what a 9ft wall accommodates? What about bracing for wind resistance? Last question, if I need to build an 11 ft wide wall or a 16 ft wide, same thing, just add more spaced out studs? Or does there need to be a more reinforced type of wall needed?
Is this Canada and or Ontario “Building Code”? Just wondering. I’m looking for info on layout as my floor I Joices will be 16” center. Then sheet 3/4 then build walls, I guess the same way in this article. Rafters will be 2′ center ontop of every other I Joice laid under the floor. Now after building the wall, where is the article standing the wall up, and where placement at the outside wall area. LOL.
Very well done…Ill definitely try the Norske equipment. 😳Kalafornia Corner 🤣🤣… west of the left coast, Mid-west especially .. We call them: Wall-buck.. single, Double, “L” or “H” bucks. But to each there own. I’ve been using ‘bucks” since the early 90s when I start framing. We block in-between studs and block exterior windows at the top plate for the curtain rods…I know sounds crazy.
That is called a fire block and it is required on all walls 9′ or higher. And you normally pop one line at 5′. One block above the line, one below the line. That is done so you can shot 2 nails in both ends. Normally most code requires the block to be above 54″ (1/2 way) Normally this is done after the walls are stood because you can use scrapes.
According to the code IRC R602.3.1, 16″ is the max space between centers of two studs. But (almost) all youtubers measured the second stud starting at 15 1/4″. If so, the on-center space between the first and the second studs is 15 1/4″ which is 3/4″ less than 16″. It was not wrong but wasted 3/4″ space. It is weird that so many senior framing guys say this was a trick. I totally disagree.
Hope you answer my question, I thought I remembered being taught to start a corner with 15 1/4″ on center, then continue your studs 16″ oc. Is this another method of framing? Or do I remember wrong? Thank you for your article by the way, really got in detail, and I didn’t know about the California corner 👍
Great article. I love quality work. I do not do carpentry for a living but I try to do my own framing. I thought that one purpose of the second top plate was to help tie in corners and perpendicular walls for extra strength at that joint. Stand all walls with single top plate and cap them with the second top plate. Just the way I was thought from an actual carpenter in KY. Also in KY our pre cut 8′ studs are 92 5/8″ and our pre cut 9′ studs are 104 5/8.
I remember after a hurricane passed through my home country that americans were saying that the buildings there were shacks and unsafe. Me now looking at American houses (I’m into construction and architecture) would like to say, what? The average American house is a wooden box with some drywall and fiberglass insulation. Even the brickwork Is standalone. Back home we build reinforced concrete frame with concrete blocks, all cores filled with rebar. What little wood we do use is hurricane proofed beyond standards. Sure the houses are small but to call them weak Is just hypocrisy. If they built the way we do, maybe every little storm wouldn’t cause billions in damage.
Retired from the military 2 years ago, decided to leave my LEO career for something fun, and decided to shift gears and get back to doing what I did in high school…building things with wood. Currently in a building and construction trade program at the local college here in TX and taking in as much info as I can. Came across this article (about to install a wall in my garage to block off the 3rd car side for a workshop), watched it, and am thoroughly impressed by the attention to detail. Subscribed today and looking forward to perusal and learning more…excellent work!
Hey did a great job I learned a lot from his article because the morons who built my mobile home didn’t even use 1×3 wood for the frame wall so am gonna tear down the whole wall rebuild it with 2×4 pine done think I need pressure treated ? And I can make the spare room 3 or 5 feet bigger am very nervous because I have experience in carpentry so am forced to learn on my own a contractor that’s a joke I know they to make money but they over charge plus it’s a lot I gotta have cash 💰 am poor I loved this article I just wish he stand up the wall and placed inn lol am learning to stagger drywall too that’s hard so long story short am rebuilding a mobile home from 1974 which previous owner didn’t fix a fucking thing oops sorry lol lol
The only downside to the blocking comes when the happy customer wants to add power/data etc. There is a piece of blocking “blocking” a clear path. If rigidity is the purpose, turn the blocking on edge and leave a space where the future is considered. Love the “new” style corner. As an architect, my specifications always said – install insulation everywhere – including corners. For first time contractors who did not know me, they did not appreciate the effort required to “fix” this problem. While talking insulation – use it everywhere. It is the cheapest material ever. If you are hired to “soundproof” spaces after the fact, it is often a chore.
Great vid Matt! Another way to do the blocking: run a line @ 4ft. then just alternate sides with your blocking. It gives you room to face nail into end grain on both sides and you only needs to run 1 line. Just another of the hundred ways to do this stuff, like you said, a signature. Love your work, keep it up!
OKay. Wait. Most top plate is either held back 3 3/4 or extended 3 1/4 . That’s so the walls can tie into each other. Also, most people with a clue just cut a wind brace for walls over 24′. Walls less than that are tied together by other walls and don’t require bracing! Plus most contractors require a shear panel so that negates the need for a wind brace.
I would like to save a couple thousands on not buying custom windows without loosing the size. This leaves me with a small header opening. A little more than a 2×4 can fit in the gap. It’s not load bearing on a gable end. Is there a way to get around having to use a 2×6 as header? Different material? Like a metal beam?
Your marking is rough. Get a real pencil and mark one side of the stud, then put a X on the side which the stud goes on. This also enables you to do correct ”standard” nogs (blocks) for the center studs and cut to suit for the ends ONCE the wall is installed and not measured from the top-plate, otherwise im 100% certain this wall wont be perfectly square. Your layout will create bows in the studs over long runs aswell
Being a carpenter my entire life, I see something that of these builders miss… before putting up walls, predrill holes 18″ from the bottom of the 2×4, 2×6 or whatever you use, this makes running the wiring a thousand times easier, all you carpenters out there know, how hard it is to get a drill between the wall studs, just when you get the lumber, stack 3 or 4 of the wood that you are going to use as walls ( be sure to keep the predrilled holes at the bottom ), you’ll see how easy it is to run the wires to the boxes and throughout the structure, there will be a few holes needed for lights in the ceiling, but you’ll be drilling upwards, between the wall studs, and the drill won’t have a problem doing that, it’s even easier, if you stand on the ceiling studs, that way you can drill downward, try it, you’ll find running the wiring a thousand times easier.
I have a 10 ft 2×4 pressure treated that am using as a base plate in my basement. Laying flat, I see daylight between the bottom of the stud to surface of the floor which tells me it has a crown. Should I lay it down with the hump pointing upwards? Also I see it twisting to the left which someone commented that the crown would be to the right. Whatever way it’s crowning ( let’s say it’s on the right side) that side should face outward. I can’t build the wall on the floor because I don’t have the room to stand up due to plumbing. Let me know what your thoughts are.
Awesome level of detail/info and pace. Wanna get to some framing (gonna start my basement soonish). I realize its from last year but if you still check out your comments, you recommend a double bottom plate for basement (pressure treated/Blue wood bottom + normal lumber 2nd layer) so you can fasten the treated wood to concrete, build a wall and stand it up? Or just build the bottom plate out of treated wood and go? I’ve seen both being done.
Nice article Matt…but I gotta say those cordless/hose-less tools are soooo slow! After 42 years in the framing biz I still like the speed and power of corded tools. I can see your attention to detail and it is admirable !! I see so many young guys running crews now and pride of workmanship is no where to be seen. Thanks for your articles!!
Matt I like your articles I been doing carpentry frame to finish for over 20 years and I never saw anyone just lay out the center like you said they did back in day never even heard of that before i lay out like you do hook end of plat and mark 3/4 back from 16 mark. But what I know they use to do what I was first taught to do was mark 15 3/4 set a nail on that mark then hook your tape then mark 16 with x ahead that how it was in the late 90 s when I first started doing carpentry then couple years after that around like 2000 we started doing the 3/4 back from the 16 mark but I never heard or seen someone just hook the end of plate and lay out your center mark
Chalking your block lines is wild… your work isnt any better it just took longer, no ones living in a raw framed house, its immediately covered in gyprock and if youre working for a GC they far more concerned with price and time to finish than if ocd stuff like this that makes no structural difference is done
Pretty good. The only thing you missed on your explanation for top plate depending how it’s connecting on top you can leave it out longer to connect to another wall or habe it shorter when connecting to it. The one extra line is nice, I’ve been doing the one line on one side. And a quick x as I’m going through with my tape on both plates. You just go back and proceed to only mark one line on the wall layout. I imagine you’ve probably never got hit my a nail since your standing on the side the gun is shooting towards. I think it’s a good idea with any gun pneumatic/ electrical to not be aiming at yourself. It’ll save people some hurt.
Tell me why one time back then I was trained to always shoot the bottom first of when nailing a stud,jack crip etc….. real talk I wasn’t told a reason? I was too green following orders to ask why, I’m asking cuz that particular lesson stuck with me till this day damn near a decade and I don’t know why? I do have my own theory and I stick to it cuz I seen with my own eyes helpers shoot there self in there hand blood everywhere plus I see Carpenters not doing it even masters don’t follow that so is it something I’m making up? Hmb