Sealing plywood edges is crucial for increasing its longevity and preventing rot. Pressure-treated wood like plywood is prone to rot if not sealed or treated, as moisture enters the core and harbors mildew. To protect plywood edges for outdoor use, apply a coat of wood filler, dry it, and sand it into a smooth, solid surface. Alternatively, cover the plywood edges with a thin strip of exterior wood paint.
Exposed plywood edges are magnets for moisture, which over time can penetrate the panel and lead to delamination. Plywood evangelist and Elliotts Timber Products Manager, Pat Collins, explains how to seal and protect plywood edges with sealant, primer, paint, and clear coat. Different products, such as epoxy, paint, oil, varnish, or PVA, can be used to prevent moisture, rot, and warping.
One of the best methods to seal edges of plywood outside is by applying exterior polyurethane varnish. You will require the following materials: a small brush, varnish, masking tape, and apply a coat of. High-grade epoxy helps prevent moisture from penetrating layers and causing damage. Properly sealing and protecting plywood can extend its lifespan, making it more durable.
Titebond glue can be used as a “paint” to seal the edges of the plywood, but it should be applied before applying actual paint. Typically, three coats are enough, and no further treatment is required as the plywood will not be exposed to sunlight, so no UV protection is required.
Plywood faces and edges need to be sealed to prevent water getting in and damaging the wood. Sealing the wood using waterproofing epoxy, varnish, paint, or oil is essential. Epoxy sealer is an oil-based thick coat that penetrates wood pores, making plywood waterproof from the inside. For super duty protection, glue solid wood strips around the perimeter using epoxy or paint all the edges with thin epoxy. Lacquer and varnish are perfect for waterproofing wood sheets for indoor and exterior use, and wood glue mixed with water will seal the edges nicely.
📹 Best Way to Waterproof Plywood: Ultimate Guide for DIY Enthusiasts
Discover the ultimate guide to waterproofing plywood in our latest video, tailored for DIY enthusiasts seeking reliable and effective …
📹 6 Ways to cover plywood edges – Which do you think is best??
____ LINKS (affiliate) Edge Banding Bit set: http://shrsl.com/22ryc Table Saw: https://amzn.to/2TRBsN6 Ripping Blade: …
OK Tamar, so first, I like whatever you like, and after perusal and listening to you, I wouldn’t dare to disagree with anything you say. Second, I am really happy that I live in Germany and cannot buy many of the items that you recomend from US suppliers, because your face and style of presentation are so open and honest that it is difficult to refuse your suggestuions. Deep waters and a depth of skill and knowledge, an honest face and sparkling eyes, and I am trying to limit my viewing of your back catalogue to ensure that there is always another interesting item still to watch.
Great article. What technique would you use to edge a thicker piece? I’m going to laminate(glue) three pieces of plywood together to make a floating shelf, so that would make it about 2.25″ thick. And I was thinking of routing a profile into the hardwood edge after it’s attached. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Mark
I use what you are calling the V-groove method, but there’s a much simpler way to do it. What I do, is simply cut a 45 from both sides so the resultant angle in the plywood is 90 degrees. Then I cut a piece of the edge material about 5/8″ x 3/4″. When you rotate this 45 degrees and glue it into the groove, one side will be flush with one edge of the plywood and the other edge will overhang, and the outside edge will be basically a point, so when you clamp it, it will rotate and evenly distribute pressure to both sides. Once dry, you can use the flush edge down on the table saw to cut off the point exactly where you need it, then flip the board up and trim off the edge that overhangs the plywood. I find this is a super fast method and takes fewer clamps than gluing up a thin part for the edge, and even faster if I add some dots of CA glue and accelerator along with my aliphatic resin glue, then it doesn’t even need to be clamped at all, just hold for a few seconds by hand until the CA glue sets. I’m a professional fabricator with 35 years on the job doing millwork, cabinetry, and remodeling. I like your website, your delivery is clear and concise and it’s always good to experiment with different methods to find what works best for you- so I thought I’d share mine. Keep up the good work.
My projects are mostly functional rather than aesthetic, so the need to conceal plywood end-grain has never come up. However, I’ll put these ideas under my hat just in case. The insert strip is my choice as a height match is not required and only one cutter at one setting is needed. There is also perhaps some strength advantage if the insert strip is cut across rather than in the length of the sheet, placing the greater number of fibres across the join.
I was looking for something like this…I want to look at engineering a hardwood door with ‘thin veneer edge’ come hidden keyed in frame. Wanted to place the stock at a 45 degree angle and use this sorta thing as a kind of frame to the door…hmm For me though, I wouldn’t mind Andean as the use of contrasting woods to me would look very interesting My current doors (and frames) have just about had it Have you a link to that router bit you used for the final keying in option (the one you sprayed that WD 40 product on)? Would you have thought, once glued up, that it would be the type of joint that would last the passing of time in an outside door setting? Also, what was the very last one you showed in the vid?? I’m sure I didn’t see the method for that one during the article…I’m confused 🤔
I really like your articles, thank you for these. However, many other wood working YouTubers discussing safety always say that you should never be distracted when using any power tool, particularly ‘killer’ machines like the table saw. As such should you really promote any audio product that you would listen to whilst using such tools? Having worked in a timber yard when much younger and seen the horrendous accidents that happen when people don’t concentrate completely on what they are doing, especially when they have done the same job, using the same machinery, for years and years and then end up being really bitten by the machine, I think you should always promote safety above anything else. Sorry for the criticism but it’s something I feel very strongly about having seen an arm hanging off and someone’s foot nailed to a floor!
I love your website Tamar. Your articles are without a doubt some of the very best on YouTube. Your descriptions are clear, detailed and most of all interesting. I also appreciate how you make comparisons then tell us Why you prefer one option over another. Thanks for all the great articles and tutorials. You should consider teaching in a community college trade program. I’m sure your classes would be packed every semester. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that you are the most beautiful woodworker on the internet :>). Cheers!
I liked all your ideas. Currently, I am using a 3/4″ rope trim that costs me $6.52 per 8-foot stick. In my neck of the woods, there is a desk shortage right now and I am making 2X4 foot desks and trying to keep the price down to less than $35 in material cost. Since I am using 3/4″ OSB I use 6″ X 24″ Peel and stick simulated laminate wood floor tile for the top which costs 50 cents per square foot. I tried using it for the sides and it doesn’t work since it peels off so easily from the sides and its not long enough. I have a Shopsmith so I can easily make the joinery required. Since I have so much scrap plywood around the shop would it be feasible to make a Tenon out a piece of plywood only 3/4″ thick? Would the Veneer even hold? Here is the link for the desk. I Designed it in Skechup 2017. dropbox.com/sh/4o851nqi3ngn6bz/AAA6gFyA1bgoKI8IundlNmmNa?dl=0
Another great article Tamar. The way u incorporated the Audible promo was absolutely masterful! Now to vote: As I often say, “A router is a carpenter’s most flexible saw.” With that said, the tongue and groove edge banding bit set is my favorite, followed by the v-groove method, with the veneer strip coming in last, though appropriate for some applications where a visible edge is acceptable. A couple of pointers, if I may: 1) A no file flush trim bit is priceless for the veneer strip method. 2) In addition to their 15223 bit set for tongue and groove edge banding, Yonico (available from “Big Orange”, as well as others) also offers their 15225 edge banding bit set which enables the v-groove method you demonstrated on the table saw to be accomplished on the router table. Be well!
Thank You so much for being a inspiration for my kids. I love the articles and your exploritive ideas and explanations are awesome. I also have to note I appreciate not making articles being a object to adore. My kids and I enjoy perusal your articles and I appreciate helping educate my kids mind with informative teachings and not clouding my kids with sensual objectivity.
Just got referred to your website today and I’m hooked. I’ve always been handy enough to be dangerous but your articles always include helpful tips that are probably common knowledge to most woodworkers but are cool little revelations for me. Bloopers at the end of articles are always funny too. Keep up the good work!
Your website and a couple other websites have are a saving grace. I have barely any room to do wood working so I’m constrained to a hand router, a miter saw and a portable table saw. I didn’t know with a little innovation you can do so much with just a table saw! Now I’m using it as a planer, cutting small logs, joinery… Thank you.