The best option is to either remove the box all together or put a cover plate on it. Another option is to run a new circuit to the new box and de-energize the circuit to the old box, marking the source wires as “NOT IN USE” at the panel. Building a porch or timber cladding may help cover up the beam, but still have the column to contend with.
The Box Shell is a product designed to eliminate noise and air infiltration around junction boxes in walls. It’s the new best way to insulate electrical junction boxes in your building. Three best practices for properly sealing wall penetrations and preventing mold include:
For circular penetrations: Circular holes for HVAC and other hose or pipe penetrations should be filled.
Fill small and large holes outside – exterior – external wall and patch render.
Use a vinyl outlet box plate with junction box in wall or an exterior rated box surface mounted for weather-tightness. Mount a cable clamp in one of the knockouts on the back of the box (I strongly recommend using metal boxes).
An electrical junction box must remain accessible, so you can remove the receptacle, properly terminate the wires, and install a blank cover. A solution could be to cut a hole in the shelf face and put a box cover on it, staining or painting the cover to match the existing structure.
📹 Flexible conduit and weatherproof boxes
How do you hide an outdoor junction box?
Landscaping ideas for hiding utility boxes in your yard include ornamental grasses, container vines, privacy screens, and repurposed old cabinets. Pad-mounted transformers are the most disturbing utility boxes, but smaller power pedestals and meter boxes can be placed on house walls. Growing container plants can create a beautiful natural wall by filling large containers with vertically growing plants. You can choose to grow only one species or mix annuals and perennials for a more interesting look. There are endless plant choices to choose from for a unique and stylish landscaping solution.
Why can’t junction boxes be hidden?
In the event of a fire, the consequences would be the most severe. The second most adverse outcome would be an electrical system problem that cannot be diagnosed or located due to the unknown location of the junction box.
Can you install a junction box outside?
In the event of installing an electrical box in an exterior location, it is of paramount importance to select a weatherproof junction box in order to safeguard it from the detrimental effects of inclement weather, including dust, dirt, heat, precipitation, and snow. Such boxes are typically situated on the external walls of buildings and residential areas in order to maintain the interior of the house, which makes them a popular choice due to their durability.
Can you cover over a junction box?
A junction box is an electrical enclosure that houses wiring connections, protecting them from environmental conditions and accidental contact. It should not be covered with insulation or drywall. However, it can be placed behind drywall if there is access with a blank cover, following local code requirements. Mounting the box like an outlet and covering it with a blank plate ensures proper concealment.
How to cover an electrical box on a wall?
Electrical panels are essential components of every house, but they can be an eyesore and detract from a room’s overall look and feel. To cover them, consider hanging art or paintings on your wall, curtains or blinds, shelving or cabinets, chalkboard or whiteboard, decorative screens, plant trellis, custom cover, or a photo wall. These creative ways can hide the panel completely or add decorative pieces around it.
- Artwork: Hanging art or paintings on your wall can be an elegant way to cover your electrical panel. Choose work that matches the décor of the room, and the panel will blend into the background. Modern abstract art or vintage paintings can be the perfect addition to any room and a great cover.
In summary, covering an electrical panel can be a simple and elegant solution to enhance the overall look and feel of your home.
Is it against code to cover a junction box?
The text states that outlets or junction boxes must have a cover unless a fixture canopy, switch cover, or other cover is used. Installations must meet standards such as Article 314 of NFPA 70, ANSI/UL 50, ANSI/UL 514A, ANSI/UL 514B, ANSI/UL 514C, IEC 60092-101:2018, IEC 60092-201:2019, IEC 60092-306:2009, IEC 60092-352:2005, IEC 60092-401:1980, and IEC 60092-502:1999. They must be securely attached to their mounting for protection.
Can you splice outside of a junction box?
It is recommended that splices be placed in an accessible junction box, with all connections made in boxes that have been designated for specific purposes, such as switch or outlet boxes. In the event that a junction box with a blank cover is required, this can be used.
How to weatherproof a junction box?
To waterproof an electrical box, wrap it in a plastic bag, seal the edges with silicone, paint it with a waterproofing agent, and use PVA to seal it. There are various types of waterproof junction boxes available, each with different purposes and requirements. The integrity of the junction box can be compromised if the correct type is selected or installed against manufacturer’s instructions. The IP rating of the junction box is a crucial factor to consider when selecting an outdoor equipment.
There are different sizes of outdoor electrical junction boxes, and they can be used underground or for cable entries. It is essential to properly seal cable entries and paint over the box. Maintenance is required with outdoor rated junction boxes, and they provide protection against dust and debris.
In the photograph, the integrity of the junction box is compromised, as the extension lead is fully submerged in water. It is crucial to select the correct type of waterproof junction box for your application and to follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Does a junction box need to be visible?
The National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates that junction boxes should be easily accessible for maintenance and inspection, not hidden behind walls or obstructed. They should be installed in a workmanlike manner, following industry standards and manufacturer instructions to protect wiring and connections. The article also regulates wiring methods, requiring wires inside junction boxes to be securely fastened and supported to prevent damage. Adequate spacing between wires is also crucial, especially when different voltage levels or conductor types are present.
Can you patch over a junction box?
Prior to the application of a patch, it is imperative to remove the affected box. However, in instances where this is not feasible, an alternative solution is to patch a hole with the box still in place. It is imperative to remove any irregularities in the drywall surrounding the opening, including rough edges, irregular corners, and any protrusions. A piece of drywall should be cut two inches larger than the opening, with at least one inch of excess on each side of the opening.
Can you block a box junction?
Blocking a box junction can be both annoying and costly. Traffic cameras are now in place, and if you block a box junction, you may receive a fixed penalty notice. The fine can range from £70-£130, depending on your location in the UK. If you don’t pay within a certain timeframe, the fine may increase. However, following these tips can help make box junctions less scary. Understanding their workings can make them less intimidating.
📹 The BIGGEST Mistakes DIYers Don’t Know They Are Making When Installing Metal Electrical Boxes
In this video I show you some of the biggest mistakes made when installing metal electrical boxes. They can be incredibly …
Great article dude! I usually like to wrap one of thoes grounds directly to the ground screw before tieing them together so i can have extra space to make tails. There is little to no room for activities like to install a device in this box, which is why i typically will crimp sleeve my ground together instead of wire nutting. But if this is done its important to note you CAN NOT make jumpers with a crimp sleeve so wires can not be broken. Its kinda hard to explain this technique throught text. But non the less very educational
Why is it necessary (other than color code convention) to be a green grounding screw? Wouldn’t a pan head screw that fits the thread with a star lock washer be sufficient? The pressure of the screw would embed the lock washer into the wire and the screw head providing a bonded connection. I agree with the pretwist concept. I’ve had too many AFCI/GFCI breakers suffer “ghost” tripping and they were all traceable to a poor connection within a wire nut. Pulled the wire nut, twisted the connection, clipped the end, and re-installed the wire nut; those circuits haven’t tripped since!
when a ground wire makes contact with your feed it creates a arc flash and trips the breaker but when it makes contact with your body and then you touch the ground and feed at the same time that’s when your gonna get shocked same for neutrals and positives don’t touch them together and you won’t get shocked. When a ground wire touchs a 4×4 box and then the positive some how slips out it cause a arc flash and most likely will melt the wire so there not touching anymore most cases it just trips the panel tho
No doubt not clamping the cable to the box is a bad thing, but how big is a problem of cable being pulled on? The cable should be stabled many times along its run as well plus buried inside wall. I truly don’t understand the pulling danger. Once done the cable is practically inaccessible to be pulled, so what is pulling it? My fear is more from subtle house vibration slowly wearing through the insulation eventually causing a short. The only time I can see it being pulled is during insulation, but that seems to me would be some kind of daisy-chain situation. Is that pulling you are referring to….
Go over that the directions of the outlet up or down with the ground up or down . I look it up there is no ground up or ground down as the outlet are installed. Unless it is mark on the top of the outlet . Because outlets can be mounted sideways too. I have been a electrician for over 40 years the NEC book has nothing in it but spacing in the rooms
14 Ga is not an issue if you are installing a 15 amp outlet. If you are the one installing the wiring it is safe to assume you are going to be installing the outlet as well. 99% of the outlest in homes are 15 amp. This being said…. If there is ever a fire, that wire will be blamed. Most states and even the NEC (based on a quick google search) say 14 ga is fine for 15 amp at 120 v. Some states/regions/cities/counties have different codes.
I did not read all 1,784 comments … The issue of the third wire in the Wago being 14 awg and the feeder being 12 awg is not necessarily bad if you KNOW the attached device won’t pull more than 15 amps, but the 20 amp breaker won’t protect that wire. This is the case when you install a ceiling fan on a 15 amp circuit but the fan’s wires are 18 or 20 awg because that device is safely powered by that gauge. However, if the device you install on that 14 awg wire is a convenience outlet, and its probably a 15 amp, not 20 amp, outlet, then you just have the risk of some yayhoo using a cheater and that wire is not protected by the breaker (which is probably 20 amps). Regardless, the wire and outlet should match the breaker. I am surprised you did not call out the three common (white) wires for not being twisted outside of their wire nut; you have a article that states that is a common error by not following the instructions for the nut.
I am from Argentina, and I see the electrical circuits in the US as madness 😂 I mean, they look like so modern sometimes yet some old the same time… Like GFCIs built in the outlets but MONO-STRANDED wire. Also I notice you tend to use those bipolar+ground wire cables, instead of each individual wire, and plastic/metal piping or flexible tubing to join boxes together.
For me as a German Electrician there is everything wrong besides the Wago connector! 😂 No proper grounding of the metal box. Those comical wire nuts. Those Janky american cables that look like 1st class chinesium. No grommets on the sharp openings. No durst or water proofing on a box that seams like it´s mounted on top of a wall? If it´s suppost to go inside a hollow wall, how do you use the strain relief? Good thing u americans have the 110V for normal outlets, otherwise alot more people would die directly from shocks! 😆
Jesus! Move to Australia. All that connecting and jumpering is replaced with…. Strip ends… twist together.. insert directly in to power point… lock down with a screw connector…. already part of the power point! Wagoe and wire nuts are the most abhorrent idea I’ve ever seen… if we have to do something similar its a BP connector and the box is PLASTIC. Why are you even allowed to do this level of work as a DIY? Maybe the powers that be over there are helping the “natural selection process” along…. Cheers great article. Always interesting to see how things are done elsewhere.
12awg @ 20 amps as long as it’s not a continuous load. But this also doesn’t take into account ampacity chart of the NEC where 14 AWG THHN can carry 25 amps. But that also depends on distance which than you have to account for voltage drop and resistance. Gosh, this is getting all sorts of confusing, perhaps diyers should consult an electrician.
When I’m working a house from scratch I always wire for 20amp and make sure the circuit breaker box and handle the number of 20amp breakers needed. My reasoning for this, is because clients tend to be stupid sometimes and plug heavy drawing items into 15 amp plugs. Also particularly on w story foyers some people don’t know the fixture going in the spot how much light it will use…. A 12 light chandelier rated at 60watts per socket will overpower the wire as well as the switch.
American youtuber: spot the things wrong Dutch electrician: Using a metal box. No need for a strain relief and no earth bonding either. Major time savers there. And PVC boxes aren’t designed in such a way that it’s even possible to damage the wires in the first place Mistake 2: romex and the lack of ducting. We use loose wires inside a PVC tube. Not only offers it better protection for the conductors, it also saves time stripping the romex outer layer, which also introduces the extra risk of damaging the insulation of the inner conductors. mistake 3: wire nuts. No real electrician here use those anymore. Way too time inefficient. Or did you mean other things? 😀
Noticed a couple things you got wrong in this article. The info you provided minus the grommet needed to be used for the Romex is incorrect. 1) Since you’re installing a device you do not need a bonding wire for the box because the box is grounded through the device. That is in the code book. 2) the 14 wire is ok to use in that application even on a 20 amp circuit. The voltage drop or load would have to be so excessive that even the 12 wire would burn up. But for peace of conscience a 12 wire isn’t wrong to use. As an FYI, wire size is not determined by breaker size. Most will disagree, but I am an electrician and have studied this and it was even in my continuing education back in November this past year for license renewal. Wire size is determined by the load. DIYers don’t know how to determine load calculations for wire sizing so they go to the failsafe of using the wire size based on breaker amperage (which is smart to do). They at least know they’re protected. For a side note, the greatest point of failure if all is wired correctly is the Wago. But I won’t get into that in this comment
Per your discussion of the #14 jumper mated up with #12 conductors, in the common connector: As long as the supplying circuit breaker has a 15 amp trip-rating, and the connector in the box is properly rated for either #12 or #14 conductors, the #14 jumper connecting the utilization equipment would be okay in my opinion. In a lengthy branch circuit, #12 NM wire might be 15 amp protected to reduce line loss.