This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to paint over varnished wood trim, focusing on cleaning the surface before and after painting. The process involves using a household cleaner, vacuuming and solvent wiping, and priming the surface. The best primer for painting over varnished wood is Zinsser BIN, Crown Trade PX3. To prepare the surface, use a deglosser to prepare the surface and apply a bonding primer designed for glossy surfaces.
To paint over varnished wood without sanding, use a deglosser to prepare the surface and apply a bonding primer designed for glossy surfaces. Prime the wood with a good oil-based primer, such as scuff sanding or stainblocking primer, and apply two coats of paint. After priming the trim with BINs Bullseye, pigmented shellac, lightly sand it again with 220-400 paper or 4/0 steel wool.
It is important to avoid applying paint directly onto stained trim and to clean the surface before priming or painting. The guide also emphasizes the importance of sanding the stained trim before painting, as it helps to prevent bleeds and ensure a smooth and streak-free finish.
📹 How to paint over stain / varnish surface – No Sanding
This is the best way to paint over a stained or varnished surface without sanding, de gloss or varnish stripper. Shinny glossy …
Is it better to strip or sand varnish?
Stripping is the preferred method for removing existing wood finishes, while sanding is more suitable for surface imperfections. Stripping preserves the natural character of the wood by minimizing removal. It is time-efficient for removing multiple layers of paint or stubborn finishes, while sanding achieves a smooth, even surface. Both methods are essential for maintaining the wood’s natural character.
What is the best primer for varnished wood without sanding?
Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is a bond coat primer that is ideal for glossy surfaces like varnished wood, offering excellent adhesion without sanding. It dries to a smooth, tight, water-resistant film, making it perfect for painting over with your chosen topcoat. For kitchen cabinets, Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is recommended due to its high moisture resistance and biocide content, making it suitable for high-humidity areas like kitchens. For MDF wood, Zinsser BIN Primer is recommended, as it is a shellac-based primer that creates great adhesion for your chosen topcoat.
This fast-drying primer can be applied directly without sanding and is ready for a topcoat after just 45 minutes. Overall, Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 and BIN Primer are recommended for different surfaces and applications.
What happens if you paint over a varnished painting?
Paintings are varnished to protect the paint layer and reduce the risk of damage and color fading. While it may seem like a simple task to brighten up or repair holes and cracks, it can have dangerous consequences for the original artwork. Painting over an antique oil painting, especially when it shows signs of deterioration or dullness, can decrease its longevity. Specialist conservation methods and materials may be needed to prevent further decay.
Most paintings are varnished when they are finished, and there are various types of varnish, including natural tree resin and synthetic resin, which are less prone to organic decay and UV protection. In these cases, a touch of paint may hinder rather than help an artistic blemish.
Can I use Zinsser bin over varnish?
Zinsser BIN, Johnstone’s Aqua Guard Undercoat, and Aqua Guard Satin are water-based paints used to finish brown wood woodwork. The process involves degreasing with methylated spirits, sanding, dusting, and wiping down with a tack rag. Benjamin Moore Stix bonding primer is then applied to the varnish, and sand between coats with 180 grade sandpaper.
Varnished woodwork has a hard film designed to resist contaminants, making it difficult to paint over. If not properly prepared and painted, problems such as tannins bleeding through the paint film and lack of adhesion may occur. Over time, paint chips may show the varnish underneath, highlighting the issue. The trend of dark timber in homes is slowly coming to an end, favoring crisp, sharp lines and impeccable satinwood.
What is the best way to paint over varnish?
To apply paint to a sanded wood surface, apply a high-quality primer designed for varnished surfaces. Allow the primer to dry for at least 24 hours, depending on the type of paint. For oil-based paint, use an oil-based primer, while for water or latex paint, use a latex primer. Be patient and allow the primer to dry completely before moving on to the painting stage. If visible brush strokes are noticed, lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.
Can I paint over polyurethane without sanding?
Homeowners often wonder if they can paint over polyurethane without sanding, but sanding is crucial for a successful project. These steps can be applied to kitchen cabinets, wood floors, doors, or furniture with a polyurethane finish. It’s important to read product labels and follow safety guidelines, including wearing protective gear like gloves, masks, and eyewear. Work in a ventilated area and follow safety guidelines when using products that require sanding. Investing time in sanding is crucial for a successful paint over polyurethane project.
Will primer stick to varnish?
Primers for painting varnished wood are available for purchase, but it is of the utmost importance to select a high-quality bonding primer that will facilitate adhesion and provide a robust foundation for the paint to adhere effectively.
Can I paint over varnished wood without sanding?
This post explains how to create a professional-grade paint job on surfaces with varnish, polyurethanes, or other sealants without sanding or priming. Sanding creates an abrasive surface for primers and latex-based paints to stick to, causing premature cracking or peeling. To avoid sanding, an award-winning latex paint additive, Oil Bond, is recommended. Oil Bond is recognized as a Top 100 Product by This Old House and is used on stained wood and surfaces with varnish, sealers, polyurethanes, or other finishes.
It is particularly useful in kitchen cabinets, bathroom cabinets, trim, doors, built-ins, painted furniture, and windows. Oil Bond acts as a liquid sander deglosser and primer in one, providing painters with powerful, professional-grade adhesion without sanding or priming.
Do I need to strip varnish before painting?
A random orbital sander is typically used for surface prep, followed by 180-grit sandpaper to remove varnish from the wood. For corners and tight areas, a sanding sponge or sandpaper can be used. It is crucial to remove as much of the glossy finish as possible. After sanding, vacuum and wipe the piece with a damp rag. If the wood is clean and unfinished, a standard primer should suffice. If varnish remains, use a primer with superior adhesion, such as Sherwin-Williams PrepRite ProBlock.
A second coat may be recommended if directed. After the primer is dry, gently sand the entire piece with a fine-grit block. Vacuum the piece and wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove dust. Apply paint using a high-quality brush, brushing up drips on corners and edges. Apply two to three coats, allowing enough time between coats for the paint to dry completely. After achieving the desired paint finish, apply polyurethane or a protective finish of your choice.
Can you paint over varnished trim?
Many people believe that painting over varnished wood is impossible. However, using oil or water-based paints is possible, but it is time-consuming and requires completing all necessary steps. To ensure the wood is in good condition, check for damage or imperfections and contact a carpenter if necessary. Clean the surface with dish soap and water, removing any unwanted materials without using harsh chemicals. This process can help restore the wood to a professional appearance.
What paint will stick to varnished wood?
To paint over varnished wood, use the right materials and painting process. Water-based acrylic paint is the best choice, and oil-based primers should be used instead. Make repairs and caulk as needed, wash varnished wood with TSP, sand with fine sandpaper, clean off dust, prime according to manufacturer’s instructions, lightly sand primer to remove brush marks, and paint over varnished wood with two coats of oil or water-based paint. Preparing a room for painting is also essential.
📹 How to Paint Over Varnished Wood Trim (Part 1)
#paintwoodwork #primetrim #paintwoodtrim How to Paint Over Varnished Wood Trim (Part 1) http://www.russolinatzpainting.com …
Thanks for this article. I have a ton of trim and crown molding that is varnished wood and very shiny and I’ve been trying to figure out the easiest way to strip the finish so I can paint it all white and make sure it adheres well. 😀 Your tips helped ALOT to finally get me motivated to get this huge project done. 😀 I’m off to buy some Stiks and wilbond. 😀
wow-I’m gonna use the deglosser step .In the past I would just give a light sanding and hit em with the bonding agent. Got a lot of stained trim to rework after we get the drywall done at my boys house. Also Russ… is that a Purdy brush? Steady hand you got my friend….I’m 63 and I gotta put painters tape on because I”m just not that steady anymore. Enjoy your youth Russ… JJ
hello again Russ. your attention to detail is outstanding. takes a real pro to never say, “good enough”. I just finished my stairs following your other series and it came out beautiful. I was surprised to see you use STIX on this job, thought you were a B-I-N man! I’d like to try STIX though, being water based just a bit easier to work with. do you think STIX covers as well as BIN?
So this liquid deglosser doesn’t hurt the walls at all? I usually cut in without using tape whatsoever but I’m doing a full white package on this job on all varnished trim and doors in the house, as well as ceilings (no walls fml). So I’m leaning towards just giving in and taping, but then I have to worry about wall color coming off with the damn tape, ugh. I may just do the walls at no extra cost to save the time and frustration. Just want to know for sure if that stuff will affect the finish on the wall if it touches it whatsoever, will there be a dull spot probably?
Russ, if you’re still doing articles, and if you’re not doing now, it would be helpful to show the steps in written form on screen as you go along. It helps for those of us who know nearly all the steps but are looking for one or two pieces of information. Or, just to help us remember the steps. Thanks for the info none the less.
Hi Russ, really appreciate your articles, they have helped me a lot with other projects. I’m now on to a stair railing project and converting from stain/varnish to a gloss white. I’ve done the sanding and now ready to paint. I was going to tackle it first by using Zinsser BIN sealer primer (shellac base) and then a couple coats of gloss paint. The BIN seems really thin and watery compared to other primers and from what I read it can be tricky to use without dripping/splattering, but is supposed to be great for a base coat. Would you recommend I use the BIN or do you think another type product would be superior for a railing project? If you recommend the BIN type product, any tips for using it for drip free application?
Hello russ! Great work! Much like a precious viewed I have trim in a house that has stain and varnishes for over 30 years. Great wood work in which some of it is still tacked around and others are removed. What grit sand paper should I use? Sounds like the steps are sand, use deglosser, prime and paint 2 coats of the products you recommend? What about the wood that that is not tacked on? Should I sand l, degloss maybe a coat of primer and then tack, fill holes another quick sanding of holes filled, primer again and paint ? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks Russ. Taking your advice. Starting tomorrow on my own 1969 varnish trim while locked in the house. That initial scuffing can really be that quick huh? ( with the ‘will bond’ next). That is awesome. Ps not far from you in Southington. Thx for the articles. I have my next painter for house exterior when the time comes. 🙂
Your articles are a great help! We are going to be painting all of our oak trim white. Today I discovered that Benjamin Moore bought INSL-X brand including the Stixs bonding primer and they sell it for $52/gallon. That seemed a bit pricy to me. The BM sales guy recommended the Aqua lock primer $30/gallon for doing trim. Another store recommended Zinnser’s “Cover Stain” for $18/gallon. What do you think?
Started a project in my 60’s house with over 40 door/window casings stained varnished not to mention baseboard/crown stained/varnished. My idea was to sand all that varnish off. You just gave me back a couple months of my life. Where do i send the check. 80 grit sandpaper in a vibrating sander barely busted some of that crap off. Thanks again. What do you think about hiring an airless sprayer to put down the primer?
Russ you are the Man! Wish I could hire you to paint my house! I just watched a guy put 7 coats on some varnished trim to keep it from bleeding through. Plus he dripped paint everywhere. You do it right! Awesome job and I will definitely be getting some Wil-Bond and Stix primer and doing it my self next time. Does it works as well on wood paneling thats been stained and probably varnished? Because I have lots of that just cant decide if I want to paint it or leave it.
Help! I accidentally used shellac BIN primer instead of water-based on our previously stained and varnished wood trim. (Our first primer coat.) We bought water-based paint, plus I really don’t like the clean-up with shellac. Can we buy water-based BIN and use that over the Shellac Primer or do we have to use Oil-based paint now? BTW, I love your articles! So informative and helpful. Great job!
Wow, thanks so much! We’ve been looking into using deglosser vs just sanding, and your article was perfect in helping to understand how to use the deglosser, as well as how to lightly sand first. Good to know I don’t have to take the trim off the window, this looks much easier than I’d envisioned in my mind. I also appreciate the painting tips you’ve provided.
Before the comments pissed me off I was going to ask about wether the process would be the same for a whole wall of beautiful wood work? The house were buying was built by a master cabinet maker, so some of the walls are beautifully built wood, and I love the details, id just like to paint them. Thanks in advance!
Is the de-glosser necessary since you already scuffed the surface with the med grit sandpaper? Also, does it remove any varnish? I’ve made the mistake of removing all varnish off of a surface and opening the pores of stained wood which ended up seeping through multiple coats of primer and paint, I don’t wish that on anyone!
I have an old house with huge baseboards and picture frame hanging moulding about an inch from my ceilings through the whole house. I’ve been prepping to paint the walls and trim in my bedroom and had been dreading all the sanding I’d need to do. I recently started researching liquid sandpaper/deglosser since I found a bottle I guess I randomly bought when I first moved in. Thank you so much for making this article and going step-by-step in real time. I assumed from just reading the instructions that so much more time and elbow grease would be involved in the deglossing process but now I’m super confident I can get this done in a reasonable amount of time even with the abundance of trim and baseboards I’ll have to do. This was incredibly helpful and I really appreciate it!!
Wow that’s all I needed to do. I had to do the same thing to all the windows in my new house. The window casings were Anderson wood windows stained n varnished. We wanted them white so I hand sanded all the wood to bare wood just to be safe. Did this on about 20 windows on my first floor. I’m definitely doing it ur way when I tackle my upstairs windows. Thanks again russ
Great articles in every way. Love your website. Started this exact project this week and moving on to my stair risers next. 2 questions if you have the time. Would you still recommend BIN primer for the stair risers or should I just use the Styx again? They haven’t been varnished, just carpeted. And can I add Floetrol to the primer to make it easier to work with? Thanks for the articles.