Start by cleaning the headlights with a mixture of water and vinegar. Add baking soda to the solution and use a rag to soak up the solution. Scrub the headlights with a rag to remove dirt and debris. Follow the instructions on the chosen headlight restoration product, which typically involves applying a cleaning solution or polish to the headlights and using an abrasive pad or cloth to remove oxidation.
Clean the inside of the headlight lens without scratching the fragile inner liner (Anti Fog layer). There are three ways to approach this problem:
Use toothpaste to clean headlights with toothpaste, then move to a headlight restoration kit.
Defog headlight covers using a headlight restoration kit. Follow the directions on the package, which likely includes cleaning the headlights first to remove any debris.
In case of an emergency, use turtle’s rubbing compound and a pinch of baking soda to remove fog without scratching or damaging the headlights.
If the outside of your plastic lens clouds up due to UV rays, you have two options: replace the lenses, which can be expensive, or use rubbing alcohol to dry out the moist air without breaking the seal.
In summary, cleaning and restoring headlights is essential for maintaining a safe and shiny vehicle. Using toothpaste and baking soda as effective cleaners can help remove fog without damaging the headlights.
📹 how to remove dust inside headlight/cleaning inside headlight covers/honda stream rn6
Ep63 so your asking yourself why is my headlight foggy inside well in this video i will show you how to remove dust inside …
📹 5 Minute CHEAP FIX to Foggy Headlights NO TOOLS Needed! Results that Last!
5 Minute CHEAP FIX to Foggy Headlights NO TOOLS Needed! Results that Last! Hope this saves you time and money!
Well mate I have used this Silvo for many years and it is good for just about anything that needs a water/alcohol based abrasive cleaner. I have used it to bring back old scratched DVD’s/CD’s. car headlights, and anything on the car that has a shiny polycarbonate surface and/or has a hard clear surface. It takes a bit of elbow grease but the results are fantastic. Plus I always use a soft microfibre cloth moistened with water to just damp and apply the Silvo in straight or round movements – let it dry and then wipe/polish off the dried residue with another clean and dry microfibre cloth.
most modern headlights like this are sealed, so my biggest concern is the moisture the wipes are introducing into the housing. like the magnet trick though. i’m guessing the hazy marks could be from the elements/impurities in the moisture as it dries, along with the extreme heat from HID/Xenon bulbs, but the moisture shouldn’t be there in the first place, indicating a failed seal. thanks!
I have a 2008 honda crv and my right headlight has oxidation on the inside just like this, but I think it’s far worse then yours. It actually looks like the oxidation on the outside but ultra cloudy. We are a one car family – kid shuttle, work shuttle and don’t have time to separate the headlight either. Thanks!
You, sir, deserve all the awards and prizes and recognition for this absolutely brilliant solution haha I’m now going to be doing this tomorrow. Have had a little smudged section in my driver side headlight, and since it wasn’t condensation I couldn’t just hit it with a heat gun and reseal it. Its been driving me MAD. THANK YOU MAN!!
Great article with lots of insight! I previously bought a pack of super strong magnets off Amazon for finding nails in studs/dry wall (more precise than cheap stud finders because it finds the exact nails). Glad you mentioned additional details about the HIDs and their enclosure. My 2008 Avalon is similar and different from many other cars. Now I can get wifey better light coverage since we can’t upgrade to LEDs. Thanks! 🙏
Pretty smart ! Good article with great info ……. I’m gonna have to hear useless gab and lose valuable time throughout my day already …… I just wished good articles such as this one would simply get to the point and leave out all the unimportant gab! Edit your articles and remove all the stuff that doesn’t pertain to the subject at hand!
Have to say I was a little skeptical. Watched the article a couple of times and thought “Why not…?” Bought it, did exactly as shown, got PERFECT results !! The lights on my 1999 Accord, which have never been polished or replaced, now look brand new !!! Did them twice, to make sure I didn’t miss any spots, all in less then 15 minutes. I have to say this is the first time in my 68 years I have ever bought a product that OUTPERFORMED it’s claims !! Thanks for a great article,
No matter how completely you polish away the UV damage (not necessarily oxidization) it will quickly return because the UV layer has been depleted and removed. I went through this process many times until I applied a UV clearcoat. This polishing lasts a few weeks at the most. Now I am finally done trying every product and method that comes along. Two years with clear headlight covers at last! Wet sand, clear coat, and forget!
The 3M compound worked great. I pplied with a lint free cloth and the used a buffer. For me the buffer dried out the compund and gave it a foggy apearance. So I just used the cloth buff out the headlight and that worked great fro me. They came out great. Then I used a can of Meguiar’s Headlight Coating. That made them look almost brand new. Thanks for the 3M rubbing compound tip!
I just tried this on my 17 year old Honda Odyssey. The headlights were yellow, and rough from oxidation. After rubbing on them for about ten minutes, they were 100% clearer, can’t complain but the left side was further gone that the right. The left is still marred but not yellow. I believe a sponge pad on my cordless drill and this 3m Auto Advanced Rubbing Compound will do the trick.
I’d just like to make some constructive criticism. The compound won’t soak into the plastic, it contains a very fine grit, similar to soft scrub cleaner for bathrooms. This grit essentially sands the oxidized layer of plastic off as well as lightly polishing the layer that becomes exposed. Also as a correction, THIS IS NOT PERMANENT. From the factory a layer of UV protection is applied to the surface reducing the time that the sun and elements breakdown the plastic. The process shown in this article will eventually and more rapidly allow for the oxidation to return (depending on the weather in your area). If you’d like for it to last longer, you can purchase a uv protectant spray from your local auto parts store that will add a bit more protection and longevity to the restored plastic. Otherwise this is 100% temporary even with the spray
I was just thinking about replacing the housing and all. I was perusal a DIY article and decided I really don’t want to tackle that big of a project. I probably could do it, but curse words and minor injuries would be guaranteed. I came across this article and decided I’m going to try this 1st. It will probably hold me over until I sell my car. Thank you.
That’s pretty amazing. I have used the 3M headlight restoration kits. They have a sanding disk (like maybe 400 grit) and a buffing sponge both of which are used with an electric drill (they say not to use a battery-powered drill). After the sanding and buffing, they supply a sealer as the last step. Those work quite well, but this is SO much faster and easier. Have you done any long enough ago to see how it holds up? I’ve heard the many of the cheap kits don’t last long because they don’t have a sealer. Also, i would be afraid the buffing wheel might take the clear coat off the paint. I’m always afraid of that because I’ve had it happen once and it was not pretty a year later.
Awesome tip, thanks I may actually be able to look like I have headlights again & not driving down the road with 2 pocket flashlights! Love your intro, very creative. GBY for helping your neighbor, not enough of that these days. Ah, life in the country–I miss it!! Take care & I look forward to more articles, glad I discovered your website.
Compound is not a water repellent. The fact that you make it glossy helps it to repair water or the appearance of. But once the sunlight starts getting to it it’s going to start fading even faster than it did without any protection. You must put a protective coating over that plastic. The Maguire’s clear coat coating is one of the best, the dupli color high gloss clear is pretty good as well.
Just happened upon this article of yours; unfortunately, I’d recently just restored mine by wet sanding (400/600/1200/2500), followed by three coats of Rust-Oleum Matte Clear Coat for plastic (with UV protectant, non-yellowing formula), then using car wax to finish it off…ala ChrisFix. You have a knack for doing article. Impressed by your very friendly and professional demeanor. Thank for sharing.
Always good to help a neighbor, especially the elderly! One thing I would suggest is to always record your interactions with the elderly and encourage them to share their memories on article. Not only are they not going to be here much longer, but they have priceless knowledge and experience to share! CHEERS!
Thank you for this. My husband has a 2007 Toyota Corolla that he uses for work. Needless to say it’s beat up but it runs great. We live in Phoenix, Arizona so it’s in the sun all day so it barely has paint on it never mind the foggy headlights. We tried the toothpaste method and that doesn’t work. I’m getting on Amazon right now and buying some 3M rubbing compound. Can’t wait to see what happens. As far as the rest of the car, well… I keep telling myself you’re not supposed to drive a new car to work so the sun can remove the paint and make it look like it’s 20 years old.
Thanks Josh! I watched this article a few days ago and had a hard time finding the exact same rubbing compound you used, but I persevered and finally found it. It worked like a charm! In less than 5 minutes the headlights on my 16 year old Honda look brand new! The car wash near me wanted $70 to restore them. Thanks again! 👍
Old lady here!! I owned a antique shop. I would get old Bakelite (100yr old plastic) appliances, mostly tabletop radios. They would be oxidized with a white film. I would use “Mothers Mag”, you gear heads, muscle car enthusiasts remember this. It was used to polish chrome wheel mags. A very fine abrasive. It revived the color and shine. Same concept.
Great article. I’ll have to check that 3M rubbing compound out. I will differ on this point that after 3 months (3M) The lights will re-oxidize and you’ll have to do it again. People don’t ever want to keep revisiting their headlights. They really want a hit it and forget it service to their headlights that’ll stay clear for at least 2 years or more. The UV coating has to be replaced. Otherwise it’ll re-oxidize in 3 months. Sometimes re-oxidizing sooner. I love that Dewalt buffer. Got to get me one of those.
Rubbing compound is the first step on a new paint job. Smooths out orange peel, and WILL scratch clear coat/paint. Tape the paint off from the lens. If the lens is still a little hazy(happens on some plastic), polishing compound(finer grit) is next. If you’re really crazy, or a new restorer(same thing), buffing compound will make it look like glass, but that requires a wheel. Great vid, bud!
Last year I bought the kit, used the 3 step process with the sandpaper and my headlights were about 75% clear. I just used this method with Turtle Wax rubbing compound and an electric buffer. The lights looked like new in about 2 minutes. It’s a lot easier and a lot cheaper! Only a few bucks compared to $15-$20 for the specialized kit.
You are a great neighbor with a kind heart to help your elderly neighbor! Your parents raised you right! Thanks for this info from a senior female “do it your-selfer “! Tried toothpaste and a clear lense over the counter product. Didn’t really get the yellow build up off. Can’t wait to try this! …Blessings!
Great vid – was looking for alternative to the sanding method – 3M makes some MAGICAL stuff. You could wash well after your method and then seal with some WipeNew to give you more time between ‘fixing’ again. I’m afraid 3M is going to sell millions of those bottles now. Another magical chemical is PlastX by Meguiars – I use that for fine polishing of plastic – awesome product. Thanks again !
Two pointers: while scuffing the topcoat paint around the headlight lens may not be a big deal on an old Ford Taurus, you certainly don’t want to damage the paint on a newer Lexus or Audi. I suggest you mask the paint all around the lens before you start applying the rubbing compound with or without a buffer wheel. And cleaning the lens only removes the damage done by the UV rays of the sun. If you want to prevent that same damage from recurring, I recommend spraying a UV protective clear coat over the clean lens and you won’t have to be buffing it again after another 5 years in the sun.
Good article, but here are a couple of suggestions that will make the results both easier and better. First, before using any compound on the lenses, thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly, clean the lens using a good all purpose cleaner, specifically “Sprayaway All Purpose Cleaner”, and a micro-fiber towel. Do not use an abrasive or rough towel, do not use ammonia-based glass cleaner, and clean the lens repeatedly. That alone make a significant difference in the transparency of the lens. Next, apply good masking tape all around the painted surfaces around the lens. You do not want to inadvertently polish the clear-coat off the paint surrounding the lens as it will cause the paint clear coat to fail, eventually with the paint becoming chalky-white and peeling. Next, use the least abrasive compound you can find to polish the lens. Slightly moisten the cloth you used to apply and initially buff the lens. Not wet, just slightly moistened to prevent the compound from drying out too quickly. When hand polishing, try to only use vertical (up and down) motion. Horizontal polishing actually creates micro-fine ridges or scratches in the lens which accelerate future failure. If you use a buffing wheel on a buffer, drill or angle grinder, be very gentle. Do not apply too much pressure and keep the disc moving around the lens. If you apply too much pressure or stay on one spot you can overheat the lens plastic which will discolor and potentially permanent damage the lens. After you finish polishing up the lens, clean it again with the all-purpose cleaner to remove all of the compound.
Thanks for this tip, I own a semi truck and my headlights are awfully oxidized, so the difference in night driving would be improved significantly. Also, awesome job helping your elder neighbor, community uplifting is not what it used to be, so for me to see people like yourself doing such things is inspiring to say the least.
I had a coupon for a cheap toothpaste so I got it free. Toothpaste will not only clean that lens you can use it on glasses if they get a scratch. I had a pair of 1.75 magnifying glasses I bought and they were my favorite. They got a few scratches and it was so annoying I decided to buy another pair. I was on youtube and saw a article about using toothpaste. I used it twice and put them on and they were like knew again so I saved myself $15.
To everyone who is perusal this….I have been in the paint business most of my life…and I can tell your that using compound will refresh your headlights, but the fog will come back later..its just a temporary fix… If you want to fix it permantly, sand it with 1000 grit sand paper, thoroughly, and clear coat the lights….they will look 10 times better than polishing them…look brand new….take it to a body shop, or see how it works with clear that u can buy at auto parts store…. Compound will make it look better, but clearcoating them, will look brand new and last years….
I got excited to see how easy this was and how well it worked. Then I looked it up online to find who carried it. The only place I found it was direct from 3M but it was also note that “For industrial/occupational use only. Not for consumer sale or use.” Guess that kind of leaves out your average viewer.
There is no “permanent” fix to oxidation of the plastic. It WILL re oxidize after a short time of doing this. You can wax your lenses regularly to slow down the oxidation process but it will still happen regardless. Your article implies that all you have to do is buy some rubbing compound, polish for a few min by hand, and they will be fixed forever, or at least that is what “permanently” suggests. Also.. It just so happens that the headlights in this article do not have the factory clear coat peeling yet, they are only hazy. Most people have lights where the clear coat is flaking off in areas, and is extremely oxidized. In those cases (most), the lens can’t be made clear simply by rubbing it by hand with some rubbing compound, NOT EVEN CLOSE. The only way to clear such lights is to use sandpaper (by wet sanding with several grits) to remove the failed clear coat, and re-polish to clarity using compound and polish (preferably by machine) What this article shows is a quick fix that makes lights that haven’t gotten too bad be able to look good again, so for that…good job!
I replaced a Honda Civic crappy faded headlights with two round halogen sealed beam lights. Then I made an enclosure to fill the hollows left behind from where the round headlights did not fit. The result looked better than the factory look and was way brighter. I do not know how government agencies allow such an obvious safety hazard as fade prone headlamps to exist. The composite headlights are brighter than halogen sealed beam headlights for the first two years. After that, they are garbage. Meanwhile, the halogen sealed beam headlights are going to be shining brightly for many years to come and will never fade. Are composit headlights supposed to be superior to sealed beam halogens? If they are, they are failing miserably.
I just wanted to, thank you, for this article! I was considering the purchase of new/complete left and right headlights for my 1999 VW Beetle. Figured I would try this before making the plunge. I’m sure glad I did, the lights look fantastic with no need to replace them. The bottle of 3M Auto Advanced Rubbing Compound cost me a little over $12.00 at Autozone and a few minutes of time to do the restoration of both headlamps! I did the taillights also, they turned out fantastic as well! AAA+++ Information!
Just an FYI, it does not need to soak in at all, there is nothing to soak in, it is simply a very fine abrasive suspended in what is essential, lotion. Lanolin and alcohol to allow it to flash off and dry after a short time. So no need to let it soak means it works even faster, it is pretty much just hitting it with 15k grit sandpaper for a few minutes. Source, I do about 5 cars a day each weekend day through the warm months for side cash. My go-to is Mothers mag polish, but really any nice polishing compound will work just fine. Pro-tip, grab a Dremel and buffing wheel and use it to shine your wedding ring up real nice, I hot the crystal and external ring on my watch as well to give them a nice shine before going out to a nice dinner, (pre COVID of course). Frankly, I use it anywhere I need a nice shine, I have even used it successfully on the inside of a windshield to remove some light scratches from a ladies diamond ring. Makes the old rooty tooty point and shooty device look nice and shiny too.
The best way to to restore headlights is also fastest and easiest. Use 1500 sandpaper and have bucket of water with you because you need to wet sand lights.while sanding u will be seeing the yellow come of light.be sure to sand uniformly. Then using rubbing compound and rag to bring shine back. Its generally the technique to use with a buffer. But with a little elbow grease and compound on a microfiber, the results should be good.
I had to comment back. I received my 3M Auto rubbing compound yesterday and I just now, used it on my headlights. I have to tell you how happy I am, it worked like a charm. In spite of all the other methods I tried and purchased, this stuff took out the scratches from the previous wet sand I used. They look great and I am so happy that I don’t have to put the money out for new lense covers. Thank you so very very much! This stuff works like new!
Much appreciate your article. But you made a statement this is a “Permanent Fix” .. It indeed is Not a Lasting Fix. I’ve used the rubbing compound fix on headlights before and it lasts about a month here in Florida. Yes the results are beautiful, but it is indeed only temporary. There are many articles on a Permanent Fix and that requires multiple types (grit sandpaper) To actually sand off the UV damaged layer of the plastic headlight. Then this is critical, it needs to be sprayed with a UV clear coat urethane paint. This will protect the restored headlight. This process takes a lot of time, but is a permanent fix. Just search for other articles on the subject. That said this is a quick fix if you want to sell the car or something, but it will Not last more than about 30 days. Again search YouTube, and use the key word “Permanent” in the search and you’ll find many options. 😊
I tried this and it really works! I have used several kits in the past with little abrasive pads and clarifier solution. They require a lot of time and effort to go thru all the grits and really don’t work that well. My car is 19 years old and the lenses were very cloudy. I used the 3M rubbing compound pretty much as SRF did in the article, rubbing for about 3 minutes. It just flat works. Thanks to SRF for the recommendation.
I used this method and was very happy how the lights came out. I literally spent 10 minutes on the job. I would like to point out that the lights will yellow again over time mine lasted about 7,8 months and then I did the job again. So in short you’ll have to do this every so often but is still better than buying new lights.
Thank you… this works…There is always the Debbie Downer out there.. (troll) that just has to rain on every parade. I get it. It’s not perfect. There may be a better way to do this, BUT it works. “oh but, but, it’s not perfect” Go AWAY please. OR start your own “perfect in everything” Utube website. Stoney Ridge Farmer, Thank You!!
I saw this on 3/14/23…. During my lunch hour and could hardly wait to try this on my wife’s 2010 Subaru Outback. I had some Turtle Wax Compound paste… so not the 3M liquid… But with 2 applications per headlight… hand rub and hand buffing… and Wow, what an improvement! They don’t look “like new”, but definitely a tremendous improvement. I know the night driving & rainy day driving safety level went up substantially AND that is absolutely worth the 20 minutes it took. Thanks for sharing this info.
God bless you sir for helping your elderly neighour out, I love people that help other out because so many just don’t which reflects MOST of todays society ! You have helped me out and many others I see too !! Thank you so much from me David ( and I’m sure my mum Susannah in The Spirit with Jesus The True Light )
This happens because the anti-UV coating on the headlight wears off, and the plastic becomes cloudy from sunlight. For a PERMANENT fix, after the buffing shown here, spray the headlight with a new anti-UV coating available at your auto parts store from Meguiars. Renew the spray once a year and they will NEVER fog up again.
Thank you, my friend. I have an ’07 Dodge Magnum and the headlights look terrible. I am going to check to see if the local auto supply store has the 3M Rubbing compound and get to work. I already have the lint free towels. A friend of mine works at the hospital and she can get as many as I need. Thanks again! Take care and be safe out there.
I am a professional detailer that owns a mobile detailing business and I do paint correction and all on sight at ppls houses and place of work. Well my neighbor he is 89 years old my childhood neighbor I lived next to growing up my whole life as a kid at my parents house. Well his truck and his wife’s car had really bad headlights and don’t drive at all at night cause he says he can’t see I looked at their vehicles and the head lights looked 100 times worse then these and I fixed them for free for him like browns new and sprayed 2k clear 4 coats and wet sanded and polished and they look better then factory new a mirror and they now drive at night well his grandson he bought a truck for him and he called me to come restore headlights and full paint correction and clear coat the tail gate and fender and hood cuse it was peeling and paid me for it of course cuse I did 300 dollars worth of work for free for them already on their vehicles bu doing headlights and detail entire vehicles with paint correction. Well when I was done doing everything took me 2 days to do it all and hisiuth hit the floor couldn’t believe that I made a 1985 Chevy square body trucks original paint that was in decent shape look like it was just repainted by a professional show car body shop it was so shinny when you take a picture the black is so deep it looks like you took a picture of the driveway and grass and not the paint. It’s a two tone main color is black and top half is white from factory and paid me 1000 dollars when I only was gonna charge him 500 bucks which is half off my normal cost with out spraying 2k clear coat and coming back in 30 days to wet sand and buff.