Heat pump coils, including the evaporator and condenser coils, are responsible for transferring heat between indoor and outdoor units. When these coils become dirty and clogged with dust, debris, and other pollutants, they cannot be removed. To clean your heat pump indoor unit, follow these steps:
- Turn off the power to the appliance.
- Remove the grille using a screwdriver.
- Clean the movable grille and suction grille with a vacuum cleaner.
- Spray the fins and coils with a soft-bristled brush or vacuum cleaner.
- Turn off the power to the unit.
- Locate and remove the air filter, typically behind a grille or cover.
- Use a soft-bristled brush or vacuum cleaner to remove the clogged heat pump filters.
- Turn off the power to the house.
- Remove the access panel or cover to expose the evaporator coils.
- Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment to gently remove dust and debris from the coils.
- Spray the cleaning solution over the coils and try to cover and surround the entire unit.
- Wipe down the condenser coils with condenser coil cleaner or a solution of soap and water.
- Start at the bottom of the unit and slowly wash a few inches across, spraying left and right across the coil.
- Wipe down the unit with a cleaning solution, either using a simple solution of water and dish soap or condenser coil cleaner.
Material required for cleaning the heat pump includes a dry cloth, a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment, mild detergent, HVAC foaming cleaning agent, and a mild detergent.
📹 How To Clean Your AC Condenser Unit | Spring Cleaning Pro Tips
A commonly overlooked item for most homeowners but a simple cleaning could help extend the life of your AC unit and also help …
How to clean indoor coils on a heat pump?
To clean heat pump coils, fill a spray bottle with soap and water or a commercial coil cleaner and spray it onto the coils, avoiding bending any fins. Rinse by aiming water spray directly at the fins to prevent bending. Dirty coils inhibit heat transfer, so homeowners need to maintain their system’s efficiency. Professional HVAC technicians, like those at Oliver Heating and Cooling, can clean heat pump coils during tune-ups.
The Oliver Peace of Mind Membership helps people stay on track with heat pump maintenance, inspecting all moving parts, cleaning outdoor coils, and nipping problems in the bud. Regular maintenance protects equipment from failure and promotes energy efficiency.
What not to clean AC coils with?
Detergents, such as coil cleaners, should not be used on HVAC equipment as they contain chemicals that can corrode metals. The aluminum, copper, and metal alloys used in the manufacturing of fins, tubing, and plastic blower wheels and diaphragms are more sensitive and require a safe, non-acid cleaner. To clean coil cleaners, use a standard garden hose and spray water from the inside outward to prevent debris from pushing into the unit. If there is a thick film of dust, pollen, or grass clippings around the unit, use a shop-vac to remove it before washing the coils.
Coil cleaner chemicals should only be used by a professional if there are several layers of oily grime and if they are used by a professional. Foaming cleaners can spread into hard-to-reach areas and corrode the metal if not completely rinsed out. Consistent use of these cleaners over time can dissolve the outer metal and diminish the coil’s life, so they are not recommended for routine maintenance. Instead, use a garden hose and water for coil cleaner cleaning.
Can you use vinegar to clean AC condenser?
The exact amount and frequency of using vinegar for cleaning air conditioner coils is unknown, but around ¼ of a cup can be effective. The frequency can be a few months or a few months, but it can be time-consuming. Many homeowners opt for professional cleaning for convenience and reliability. If you need efficient AC repair in San Diego, contact HVAC experts as lack of maintenance can lead to issues like clogged drains, dripping water, and major breakdowns.
Action Air Conditioning and Heating offers expertise-based AC repair, maintenance, and installation services in San Diego and surrounding cities. With updated certification and years of field experience, their technicians can resolve all types of AC concerns with precision and efficiency. Contact them for fast-response service and expert solutions.
What can I use to clean my inside AC condenser coils?
Air conditioner coil cleaning can be done using household detergent and water, either using a low-pressure sprayer or a commercially available solution. The contractor should use a low-pressure sprayer to avoid damaging the coil’s thin metal fins, which can restrict airflow and reduce heat transfer capabilities. Acidic cleaners can also cause corrosion and shorten the coil’s life.
For outdoor coil cleaning, contractors may use foaming cleaners for outdoor use, which can be found in aerosol cans or bulk for use in a low-pressure sprayer. They will then apply the commercial cleaner and rinse the coil with water, depending on the cleaner instructions and manufacturer’s recommendations. For indoor coil cleaning, larger debris will be cleared by hand or with a special brush, followed by water and mild detergent.
AC coil cleaning is cost-effective, as it is less expensive than repair bills. Some HVAC dealers offer “clean and check” specials or service contracts that include regular cleanings and inspections, a guarantee against breakdown, or a discount on repair work. AC coil cleaning is a cost-effective way to care for your system, offering extended system lifespan, sustained energy efficiency, lower operating costs, better comfort, and reduced potential for extensive repair work.
Contact your local Carrier HVAC expert to schedule a service appointment, and they will provide the necessary care and maintenance to keep your air conditioning system running effectively and efficiently all season long.
How often should I clean heat pump coils?
Bi-annual HVAC maintenance is crucial for maintaining energy efficiency, indoor comfort, and a longer lifespan of your system. Your technician will likely include evaporator and condenser coil cleanings as part of their visit, but double-check if this service is included. Heat pump coils can become clogged in the spring and summer, so cleaning them every week is recommended. Higher energy efficiency results in lower energy bills, while indoor comfort is increased as the air conditioning system doesn’t have to work as long to reach desired temperatures.
Proper maintenance, including bi-annual heat pump cleanings, also reduces the chances of maintenance and repairs. If you don’t want to clean the condenser coil yourself, consult a local HVAC contractor. If you feel capable, it’s not too difficult to do so.
How do you clean the inside unit of a heat pump?
To clean a heat pump, use a vacuum with a dusting brush attachment or an upholstery tool. Remove the filters and vacuum them before passing the vacuum over the vanes and fins inside the heat pump. Wipe down the outside of the unit and avoid noticing mould growth on the outer panels. Heat pumps can produce condensation, which can cause mould growth. If mould is found on the fins or filters, it’s likely growing inside the unit. If you can’t reach the inner cogs, consider hiring a professional to clean out the unit.
Check the outdoor unit for vegetation and leaning objects. Trim or remove any growing vegetation close to the unit. Look for signs of insect nests or a colony, such as ants and cockroaches. If the problem is small, treat it yourself, but for larger jobs, consider hiring an exterminator.
How do you clean a dirty or blocked air condenser?
Before cleaning an air conditioner condenser, turn off any power leading to the unit. Remove any plants, dirt, and cobwebs, remove the outer casing, clean the condenser coils, and check for damage. Regular maintenance is crucial for the efficiency of the air conditioner, reducing power bills and ensuring comfort year-round. The condenser, located in the outdoor unit, is responsible for releasing heat from inside the home and consists of condenser coils, a compressor, a fan, and copper tubing. Understanding how to clean an AC condenser can help maintain its performance and reduce power bills.
How do you clean a condenser pump?
It is imperative to ascertain that the float is capable of unimpeded movement. A comprehensive examination of the pump is essential to identify any potential fractures or fissures. The check valve must be removed, and the discharge portion of the volute should undergo a thorough backwashing process over a sink.
How do I know if my AC condenser is clogged?
This article outlines five signs that your AC condenser needs repair: a foul odor, lack of cool air, burning smell, lack of airflow, and overheating while idling. Americans spend about $397 per year on auto maintenance and repair, but many wait until the last minute to get repairs done. Delays in repairs can increase the cost of repair and affect the functioning of other parts, potentially requiring multiple parts to be replaced. Although a faulty AC condenser is the least common problem, drivers should start paying more attention to it.
How do you clean a heat pump condenser?
To clean a dirty condenser coil, follow these steps: Turn off the unit at the source, clear the area around the condenser, remove the outer heat pump cover, and remove the top grille and fan. Wipe down the condenser coils with cleaner or soap and water, wash them from the outside using a garden hose, and straighten any bent fins with a fin comb. Place the top grille and heat pump cover back in place, and turn power back on.
Dirty condenser coils can degrade cooling capacity up to 40 and reduce energy efficiency by up to 60, putting unnecessary strain on your HVAC system. Clean condenser coils offer benefits such as maximum heat transfer, energy efficiency, indoor comfort, system longevity, and improved indoor air quality.
What are the symptoms of a dirty condenser?
A malfunctioning condenser can result in a number of undesirable consequences, including insufficient cooling, reduced energy efficiency, frequent and costly AC repairs, and regular leaks in the home.
📹 RV AC Coil & Filter Cleaning -Air Conditioner Maintenance Made Easy
RV Air Conditioners need to be cleaned in order to work efficiently. In this episode, we’ll show you how we clean our RV AC …
Here are links to all the products in this article: 🔹 Frost King Foaming Coil Cleaner amzn.to/39hZESE 🔹 NuCalgon Evap Fresh Coil Cleaner amzn.to/3F5E1AJ 🔹 Coil Combs amzn.to/3y5cq1b 🔹 Small Shop Vac amzn.to/3OQk6uk 🔹 Microfiber Cloths amzn.to/3ONYBtZ 🔹 Air Conditioner Filter Replacement Fabric amzn.to/3vvMNVG
Spot on with the cleaning! Did mine over the weekend and also I watched your article on the vent modification you did earlier. Well when I went to take out the inside filter it appears Gulf Stream did it for me! After taking everything apart and looking at their handy work they did a good job,, imagine that if you will. Anyhow you put out some good advice and as long as I’m standing upright I’ll be perusal your programs. Makes me feel smart😂😂
Ross – this gets me thinking. I have a white powdery dust material coming out of my AC ceiling vents. Our unit is a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk 30z with dual Coleman-Mach AC units. Have you ever seen this? It is not construction debris or dust left over from the assembly process. I pulled the interior covers off and vacuumed them out, as well as sealed all the open areas into the ceiling with silver metal duct tape where needed (and it was needed). I also pulled off all 12 of the round ceiling vents and looked into them. There was some construction dust/material in them. I used a shop-vac to suck from the ceiling vents while running a leaf blower into the supply ducts to evacuate all of said debris. I then reassembled the entire system. The white powder dust snow came again after several days of using the AC units. Pulling down the interior covers again yielded a non-significant amount of this white powdery substance on these covers that were just cleaned days before – all while parked, i.e. no driving in between. I believe that this is aluminum oxide coming off of the evaporator coils after being used ( i.e. getting wet and then drying). Once dry, when the AC fans kick in, the snow comes out of the AC vents again. Thi si a significant amount and covers everything in the RV – including getting into food, drinks, etc. Not fun. Very annoying. I am wondering if you, or anyone seeing/reading this, or anyone you have talked to has seen this occur in their RVs. If so, did cleaning the coils fix the problem?
Nice Informative article. Nice Job! We have the same A/C. We just did a minor overhaul of ours (9 years old). You can use a can of air you use on computers and electronics to blow out all of the dust. Also a paint brush with soft bristles helps. While you are up there, wiggle your fan shaft forwards and backwards and spin it. It may need to be soon replaced if it is noisy or too much play in it (There are articles on this). Take a pic of the tag on the fan housing for future reference. Unscrew the two bolts holding the metal box you see. Remove the box and check the wiring. Also take a pic of the start capacitor for future reference. If you fan or compressor stops you might need a new one. And, take your inside cover housing completely off and retighten the bolts holding your whole unit down on your rv. Just some additional tips while you are at it. The above fan motor, start capacitor and the cover shroud can be found on Amazon and Ebay.
Great article. I got my Rv about a month ago and Im living in it full time at the moment. I’m a contract healthcare worker. I will be cleaning the air conditioner when it gets alittle cooler. My question is that my power in the park went off today for about 3 minutes and my air conditioning did not come back on it turned off completely. I was able to turn it back on at the thermostat. No breaker was tripped and I have a surge protector on my plug. I have 2 dogs traveling with me so when I got home an hour later it was 91 degrees. Do you have any Idea why it wouldn’t come back on? I have the same 2019 grand design 2150 rb as you I believe.
Future article suggestion. We have service line shut off valves throughout our homes. Why RVs have none remains a key head scratcher for me. I installed a simple in-line shut off valve when I replaced the broken (from freezing most likely – oops) flush valve on one of my RVs toilets. This was an easy DIY mod that not only made replacing the valve less messy, but also allows me to isolate/ stop water flow to this toilet when (unfortunately not if…) future repairs are needed. Over time, I intend to install in-line shut off valves on all of my water lines (other toilet, kitchen & bathroom sinks). I’d make this article myself, but time & good article equipment are limiting factors. Thanks for your straightforward, easy to follow presentation style. Much appreciated.
fantastic article and I will be referring to it as we clean our units…..I really want to be the one to do it, but at a robust 287 pounds I fear I may be to portly to crawl around on my roof…..this may be a job better suited for 120 pound wife….lol. Although my camper does have the aluminum frame, perhaps I could risk it???? I called Flagstaff and they “recommend” folks on the roof are around 275 or less.
Absolutely informative and in layman’s terms, atta boy. Only one constructive criticism about the evap coil”….so your coils don’t freeze, expand, and rupture…”??? Gotta get more familiar with refrigerant, my friend. Heat, not cold, causes it to expand…that said, one of the best and most thorough articles I’ve seen. Good on you, sir. Blessings.
I am confused about one thing on the condenser coil. I cleaned the front like you said to and it looks great. But when I was wiping down the fan blade, I saw the back side of the condenser coil. Man it was VERY dirty with dirt & some kind of build up on it. You never mentioned cleaning the back side. Couldn’t it be cleaned too! Please help me know what to do next.
Thank you so much for the information on cleaning ac, we have a small surveyor and are outside nola and it’s humid and very dusty in the campground were at, this article was so good, thank you again also thank you for getting straight to it and not adding a bunch of other stuff!!! God bless you & family abundantly and Happy camping!!!!
Hear a lot of people on FB talking about not trusting the factory water lines and/or the factory water line connections. They say that all RV’ers should replace their entire water system with PEX and with either PEX fittings or barbed connections. Thats above my pay grade and seems like a huge job to fix a problem that doesn’t yet exist. Would you consider doing a article on this topic, or about what should be done to improve the strength of water line connections (eg radiator hose clamps), if anything should be done? Thnx
I just did that today & there was a wasps nest but they had vacated in the past, the evaporator coils & fins were clean looking. the condenser fins were all gunkd on the outside but not inside, strAng who’d think?, a short, fat screw driver with gentle touch for fin bends & then that frost cab brush to fine straighten them Cms to work. putting cover back on without bump-dNTng them again is a subtle endeavor though😯👋
Hi Ross, I have another issue with my Coleman Mach 10 Heat Pumps that might be related to condensate drain holes allowing the blower to suck unfiltered outside air including dust/dirt from under the AC unit that gets deposited onto the evaporator coil. Do you know if there is a way to access and place some open cell foam between the roof and the base of the AC unit so that dirt can no longer contaminate the evaporator coil but so than condensate can still exit the AC unit? Marc
My popup camper a/c will cool for like 10 mins max, then the compressor cuts off for 6 mins or more. And never gets cool inside. My filters was real dirty. But when i take the filters off and the inside shroud cover. It will then cool the camper until it froze up. So do you think it’s possible the coils need cleaned inside and on the top? We just bought the camper.
I just cleaned mine. The direction of air flow into the condenser coil is from the inside out. Mine was almost completely plugged up between the fan and the coil. You have to remove the fan to get the Styrofoam cover off for cleaning. I almost didn’t see all the debris stuck to the coil. I always believed they pulled air in through the coil. I see just the opposite is true. This unit exhausts air outward.
What could be the cause of it not blowing cold? The compressor kicks in and everything but it doesnt seem to cool the air. Both coils have been cleaned thoroughly with coil cleaner… When i take off the air filter from inside the rv i can see the evaporator coil freeze up a little bit…. any suggestions?
I’ve watched many of your articles. I agree with many other viewers. Your articles are spot on, and well-paced, no fluff. I don’t need to watch anyone unscrew all 4 or 6 screws on the shroud. I also appreciate the little extra info you throw in like removing the negative battery cable first. You often think of little details that other websites omit. Even after 6 years RVing, I still learn new tips from others. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Very helpful. Kudos!!!!