How To Build Deck Steps With Boards Outside?

Building deck stairs involves building two steps, one twice as wide as a single step and the other as a single step. The back framing members should be flush with each other, and decking should be added on top of the frame. To build deck stairs, first learn the parts of the stairs, including the aanding pad, which is a flat surface made of concrete, pavers, or gravel at the bottom of the steps. Building codes in most areas specify stair measurements, and using a stair calculator on decks.com can help determine the number of stairs and the rise and run of each individual step.

To build deck stairs, lay a long level or wooden board on the top of the deck, extending it until it sits right above the landing point. Measure the vertical distance from the board or level down to the ground. Building deck stairs can be challenging, but it is essential to cut stair stringers to meet code for rise and run step limits. Dig wooden forms into the ground, secure them with stakes, and clamp a piece of 4×4 to the end of the outside stringer.

Add a board to support the stringers by cutting a 2×8 board to the width of the steps to support the stringers below the rim or end joist. Use a 3″ exterior wood screw to tack the rim board in place, ensuring it is flush with the top and sides of the stringers.


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How To Build Deck Steps With Boards Outside
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

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3 comments

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  • Yes, in a sense, it’s nice one cannot post links here on the tubage because there’s a link on here to that clip from the “Dumb and Dumber” movie where they’re in that “Mutt Cut” rig and Harry poses the question of, “Hey. Wanna hear the most annoying sound in the world? AHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH-HHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!” 🙃 As for the porch, on this end, can DEFINITELY attest to using Torx (R) bits. Another advantage of those worth passing along is that with Torx (R) screws and the accompanying bit, the screw-to-bit gripping strength is VASTLY improved over a Phillip’s screw big time, ESPECIALLY when it comes to those longer deck-type screws. And no, you don’t wanna use a drill, again, ESPECIALLY on a deck screw. (LOL! Ask me how I know that…) 😉

  • Howdy, I really appreciate how practical you made those repairs. Can you do a article explaining, how homeowners can protect their wood. I have a covered wrap around porch. The original Florida construction was about 12 years ago. It is painted, floor is concrete, however about 3yrs ago when I was pressure washing. Some paint spots lifted on the wood bannister & handrail . I would like to pressure wash again, but I’m concerned about damaging it. My question is how do I reseal to protect, do I have to strip all the existing paint off 1st? How often should a reseal be done? BTW some of the paint is flaky… Thanks again 😊

  • Im a deck contractor and curiously watched your article. I believe the quote was to totally demo and build the porch back to up to date standards. It clearly wasnt properly flashed or attached to the house. The handrails were not secure and stable enough to prevent fall protection also. Im not knocking your article. Its great instruction for diy’ers. I just thought I’d share my opinion about the quote. Not sure of your location but thats a bit high in my area.

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