Proper installation of deck railing posts is crucial for building a deck, whether it’s a new deck build or a DIY deck railing makeover. Replacing a rotted stair or newel post involves temporarily removing the railing and decking on the bottom step. Newel posts for these systems require special lateral bracing to prevent the cables from pulling inward.
Plan your newel post layout according to the rail lengths available in your selected rail system. Some systems use “on center” measurements, 6′ and 8′. Building and installing railings on your deck not only comply with building codes but also add style to your backyard deck.
Fixing newel posts to the deck is not difficult and can be fastened on the inside or outside of the deck. You can either bolt a 2x to the ground and knot the stringers to it, or set the newels into the ground and bolt the stringers to it.
After carefully cutting the stringers, clamp all the stringers together to check for uniformity. Replacing an exterior stair post involves removing the railing, cutting out the offending posts, and cutting new pressure treated 4×4 posts as replacements. The first picture shows them attached between a pair of joists with one carriage bolt going through both joists and one through the rim joist.
📹 FTF #54 How To Install Handrail Posts, Quick And Easy
Here is a quick and easy method for installing wood handrail posts on your deck or staircase. My tool store: …
How do you secure a 4×4 post to a deck?
To install a wooden deck post, use a Titan Post Anchor, which is a solid, powder-coated steel connection point. Make sure there is at least 4 inches of blocking or substructure beneath the post location for a secure attachment. Use a Hole Saw to create an opening in the bottom of the post, insert the top portion of the post anchor, and tap it into place with a hammer. The Titan Post Anchor comes with two sets of lag screws: larger 5-inch galvanized lag screws and smaller 3-inch ACQ-compatible lag screws.
How to attach newel post to decking?
Newel posts may be installed in either an interior or exterior frame configuration, utilizing 100mm landscape screws. It is recommended that two faces of the post be secured through two joists at a 90° angle, if feasible. In the event that the posts are to be installed on the side of the deck, it is recommended that they be half-lapped or rebated in the instance that they are situated at an angle.
Are 4×4 posts strong enough for a deck?
The International Building Code and the International Residential Code (IRC) in the United States require at least a 4×4 post for most building codes. However, this doesn’t mean that 4×4 posts are suitable for all conditions, as there’s no condition where less than a 4×4 is acceptable. Post size is often overlooked unless an inspector notices the unusual height of a deck, and many deck builders use 6×6 posts as a standard.
The height of a deck is a factor in determining the height or “span” of the posts. Undersized posts can bend or bow when compressed along their axis by the weight of the deck above, but complete failure is rare. Taller posts are more likely to bend than shorter ones.
The tributary load, which is the area supported by a single post multiplied by the expected live and dead loads, typically 50 pounds per square foot. To find the tributary area, halve the joist and beam spans on all sides of the post and calculate the resulting area. Knowing the tributary load is not very useful without engineering knowledge or a table of prescribed post heights.
What is the best way to anchor deck post?
To build a deck, set footers 6 inches below the frost line to prevent movement during freezing temperatures. Pour 6 inches of all-purpose gravel into postholes and pack the gravel tightly. Place a cylindrical concrete form in the posthole, mark it, and cut it down with a handsaw. Mix the concrete solution and fill the form half way, removing air pockets and filling the remaining half. Insert an anchor bolt into the concrete with no more than an inch of thread showing.
Backfill the surrounding area with gravel to ensure the concrete form stays in place while curing. Once the concrete has dried, secure post brackets with washers and nuts, then set pressure plates on top. Place pressure-treated posts on the brackets, making sure they’re level and secure with structural screws. Always check the end tag for ground contact use for deck lumber. Deck post installation is one of many steps to building a deck, and having the most up-to-date instructions and proper treated lumber is crucial for correct installation.
How far should decking span between posts?
In the construction of a deck, it is recommended that joist spacing be set at 450mm in order to prevent the decking boards from flexing or bouncing. It is, however, essential to ascertain the specific load capacity per square meter of the deck in question. Verification of the load capacity of the RHS enables the number of joists required per square meter to support the deck’s load to be determined.
How far apart can newel post be?
Newel posts should be installed at 5-6′ intervals on level runs exceeding 10 feet in length. In the case of a vertical volute, the optimal choice of post is a continuous rake newel with a tapered top, either the LJ-4013PT or the LJ-3513PT. In this particular application, the newel post is typically situated at the rear of the tread.
How to anchor deck posts?
To prevent footing cracking, one must first mark the post’s corner, then draw an outline, and finally use a heavy-duty hammer drill, sleeve anchors, marking for the hole, drilling the hole, tapping the anchor in, and finally tightening the bolt.
How is my newel post attached?
The newel post should be placed over the lag, aligned with the pre-drilled holes, and a curved washer and nut inserted from the 1-1/2″ access hole. The nut should then be torqued down securely, the post stressed for stability, and construction adhesive applied to the access hole. The plug should then be tapped in and the post sanded until it is flat, in order to achieve a seamless finish. This secures the wooden newel post and provides support for the staircase railing system.
How do you attach a railing to the outside of a deck?
To install railings on a deck, follow these steps: Measure the railing run, mark the post for a stair stringer, lay out notches for the railing, attach the rails, mitre rail ends, add a handle, and install the starting post. Building codes typically require a railing on decks more than 24 inches above the ground, with a height requirement of 36 inches. If using treated wood, use an end cut sealer to protect the exposed untreated wood. Railing posts can be attached to the outer face of perimeter joists or through posts supported by footings.
Notches are required if the decking overhangs the perimeter joists. Spacing between balusters and lower rails and decking should be no more than 4 inches to prevent children from getting stuck between them. Measure the exact dimension of each railing run, calculate the number and location of posts, and calculate the gap between balusters. Plumb and attach each post with two carriage bolts or lag screws, stagger fasteners on both sides to prevent splitting. Cut notches in the post if necessary for the railing style. Fasten each rail to the posts and drill pilot holes for fasteners at the ends to prevent splitting.
How do you anchor a post to a deck?
To anchor deck support posts, follow these steps: 1) Install post brackets, secure them with washers and nuts, and set pressure plates on top. 2) Secure the posts to the brackets, using a chalk line to mark post heights. 3) Mark level lines on the posts, and cut them to height.
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📹 Installing a STRONG Deck Railing Post System
A hole drilled even 6″ deep into the bottom of the post requires a certain amount of luck to ensure that the rod and side hole are sufficiently aligned. This is a great idea for line posts as an alternative to setting posts through the deck or side mounting. I think a couple of jigs would make this more of a production technique. Some steel bushings set into thick solid stock using a drill press would make the post and deck drilling much faster, more accurate and damn near foolproof.
Tip for cutting threaded rod and bolts. Have a nut on the end you plan to keep (maybe both ends) so that when you are done cutting you can slowly turn the nut over the cut end to repair the threads. Don’t fully remove the bolt until the threads feel correct. Just work the nut almost off and then back on and back and forth to clean up the threads.
Well I’ve just spent my Saturday morning here in the UK perusal quite a few of your vids. I am in awe of your skill level and if you don’t mind me saying in someone so young. Your attention to detail and drive to do it right is a thrill to watch and I feel privileged to see you in action. All the very best to you and your family. Regards Mike
I think that is a cool ass way to secure those post, I like it!! Just wanted to thank you for the inspiration to take on projects, my son and I have been getting wicked into carpentry, jives friggin mint with our homeschooling. Working with old hand tools has been life changing, my son learned fractions by using his tape, and intro to geometry was easier with angled mortises and miters… Atagato my friend. I’m hitting up the online store tomorrow night for saws, but I can only buy two which two should I get.
I really like this technique as well as the half lap picture framing you did with the deck boards. In one of the articles you mentioned setting the post in from the corner and using a “floating” railing. What did you mean by that. I would like to do something that doesn’t hide the half lap joint yet retains the safety aspects required by code. Can you post a picture or link of what you meant ?
Codes vary all over the country. In PA we have 1,256 various jurisdictions to deal with. 90% adopted the ICC codes but many with their own ordinances voted into law so always check with your AHJ. A variation would be to use his hollow chisel mortise in the shop to get the flat hole first then drill up into the void. It can then be plugged with a square ‘Dutchman” with waterproof glue. They make those bolt and barrel quick connects for furniture and newel posts but that wouldn’t work outdoors I don’t think unless you can get it in ss. The base end grain can be primed or sealed to stop moisture migration, too but the membrane is a new twist. Wonder how well that galvanized coating on the all-thread will hold up in his damp environment with the tannic acid of the cedar. If no budget concerns, get 316 ss and it will last a century. What wasn’t shown and is critical is the sub base the all thread nut and washer bear on. If this is thin or weak it could fail as the failure mode for this post system is tension on the rod which would tend to act as a lever. The force transferred might crush the fibers of the joist sufficiently that if it isn’t dead center drilled it might fail. We’ve had a LOT of deck failures in the East with a lot of injuries so this is serious. One way to strengthen this system is to enlarge the footprint of the post by using a 6″x6″, which spreads the load at the deck boards like a plinth. Nice to see a craftsman taking the time for little details. What you need to make for Alec Steele is a caddy for his hammers and drifts with a side holster for his water bottle and one on the other for his farrier’s brush.
All you Nay Sayers. I have always done mine the old fashioned way or code way and I will say this. I recently built two decks. One a refurb and one completely new. I have always hated notching so I experimented on the refurb. I could push against, and snap right off, the old way. now with only this method and doubling the sill and screwing them together I could not even bend one over. Thank you samuraicarpenter for this great idea.
Sadly, I’m competing with 2 other quotes usually when I’m budgeting for a customers new deck and there is no money to pay me for my time to apply these thoughtful methods that do require you to slow down and create real woodwork. I did a full college apprenticeship and don’t often have time to work the way I was trained.
So I will start off with I really like the theory of this design however I do have some concerns and a craftsman/ small business owner myself. You go through the trouble of priming and putting on a membrane to prevent water wicking up the post. Fantastic recommendation, however because it is out of plumb, and you and adding shims instead of measuring the of set angle. Then taking it over to that saw and cutting it to fit flush when plumb. With those shims you compromise that membrane acting as a seal and not keep the water out the joist you just drilled right through. Speaking of which why didn’t you make that a 4″ beam. Is those Josie ever loosen and 2 x you drilled through is not going to hold craps when force use applied outward. serious like the idea just think needs fine tuned
I like the detail you put into the edges of the post and the top. I know that most customers don’t appreciate the detail you put into your work and don’t want to pay for it, but that’s what makes you stand out above the competition. I don’t what customers are like up there in BC, but here in Buffalo NY, there is a small segment of people who want to pay for the extra detail you put into all of your work. An elderly American missionary to china who did a lot of embroidery once said to me that that the back side of an embroidered piece is just as important as the front side as far as how it looks. That is how I do all of my work and will never get rich by doing it that way.
I heard that your bearings are bad in the DeWalt. I had the same thing happen to me. so I took them out cleaned them up looked for damage there was none. the grease had just dried out not a very good quality. I used a great synthetic grease and now my saw will start at below 0 if need be. you can get the seals off by using a fine pick then they’ll snap back in place you might want spin them up to there will be some loss of grease just clean up and put back together. Nice job on the post and an inspiration for us all perusal. I have the same Affliction you do perfectionism is a hard thing to live up to every time but I seem to do it as you do. thank you for your ideas and tutorials you make all of our work a little better.
By far the goofiest way to secure guard posts to a deck I have ever seen. Give it a couple of years of swelling and shrinking with rain and sun, and I guarantee you these posts will be wobbling around like a rocking chair, those shims will be disintegrated and the post will be split and rotted… If you analyzed forces and loads put on that post with this method of mounting you should be able to realize that it is very similar to a log splitter. The lateral load resistance is only half the width of the post and the core strength of the lumber has been drilled away and hollowed out.
On the website to get lessons it says: ” With millions YouTube subscribers, The Makers Mob team will teach you how to learn from your mistakes and engage in projects that will have you leaning towards our edges, so that you are constantly growing in your craft.” The website has like 700k subscribers, which is really impressive, but how does that transition into millions?
So much better and faster to notch the post 1 1/2″ and install flush with the face of the joist and install the floor after the posts are installed (it’s code in most Canadian provinces). Also, water lying/gathering at the base of the newel will rot it, irrespective of the membrane. Some speculate that the membrane will actually prevent moisture from leaving the wood, thus, accelerating rot.
I just happened across your site and for a DIY’er such as myself who uses the old school concept of work smarter not harder, this was incredibly helpful! I have found many ways to save time and energy over the years and dealt with ridicule for my techniques, but they ALWAYS passed code and provided me with happy customers. Thanks for posting this and I look forward to reviewing the rest of your articles! Oh, also, thank you for tip on the wood files!!
Used this method to put up six posts in our front porch deck. I wouldn’t really call it “quick and easy.” Took me a day to prep the posts. Which was fine because it was raining and I had all day. I also put several two by sixes between the joists where the posts needed to go. One of them, somehow, must have been at a slight angle when I cut it at the miter saw. Had to shave off some of the bottom. Be advised: those bottoms had better be 90 degrees plus or minus about a half a degree. And that hole through the bottom better be dead center. And sharpen your chisels first. I left them sort of loose while I got the top rails installed, then tightened everything down good and tight. And it does feel solid. With the top rails installed they locked together like a system. I could see the other ones shifting slightly when I tightened one post down. It feels like you’d need a truck and chain to pull it apart. So, it does work. But I don’t think I’ll use this method next time. It just happened to be good for this project.
I know this is a 4 year old article but I only found it a few weeks ago and I keep coming back to watch it. I’ve tried, seems like, every kind of deck post install possible but have never been really satisfied with them. This intrigues me, so tomorrow I will be using your system to install 6 post on a small porch. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Gotta say, this is a great idea. It holds for Bed rails really well and if things ever compress, just tighten the bolts. I look forward to trying this. Just wish I had access to the wonderful materials (read, nice wood) you get up in the north. Florida isn’t so good for that. Though we have cypress for miles.
Hello from Victoria,BC! Great articles!! Could the same concept you used to affix the post to your deck be applied to concrete? I have a Cement stoop (1959 house with 1959 wrought iron railing) is like to drill the cement, epoxy in a trash rod and do the same Thing… what ya figure? It would have to be reversed engineered I.e threaded rod cemented to the stoop first and then painfully screw the nut down overtop of the post
Yes sr i have a question..my home has 2 facade balconies..base is wood covered by stucco, composite round balustrades with wood beam thick rails..well the builder used cheaper untreated wood and its rotting..so im trying to figure out how they fastened wood raíles to balustrades . Also wood to stucco home walls..I see nothing..No screws, bolts, Nada..I just want to replace wood rails with nice wood..thank you sr
Here is a quick and easy method for installing wood handrail posts on your deck or staircase. But first go out and buy a Ridgid Combo Mitre Box with stand, 800.00, Floor mounted disc sander, 460.00, Battery palm sander, 50.00, Battery Router, 140.00 Mikita 1/2″ drill 150.00, Battery Impact Wrench, 150.00, Commercial Shop work bench 1500.00, Misc bits, cutters 150.00 and only then will this be quick and easy.
Though this is a cool way and sleek.. I can bend up to 3/4″ threaded rod with my own arms.. Add leverage at 40 inches with an average 200lb person it’s almost 800lb/ft torque.. So unless your railing is going to tie into the house structure I wouldn’t invite a rowdy crowd. .. The strongest way is to use the exiting footing post straight up or PL 2000 and Carriage Bolt the rail posts in the existing framing before decking. Any bad cuts can easily be covered by bottom post caps… just sayin’… But don’t get me wrong this is an excellent cosmetic approach in your vid…. Cheers!
The American Wood Council publishes a great free document – DCA-6. It is the authoritive publication on building residential decks that are compliant with the current edition of the International Residential Code (IRC). Google it and skip the YouTube articles. More injuries and deaths occur due to deck failures than with any other structural failure. I would be concerned that the stability of this deck railing appears to be completely based upon the shear strength of the threaded rod. And if the threaded rod isn’t stainless steel or galvanized, it will rust. Per Table R301.5 of the 2015 IRC (currently adopted code cycle for the State of Pennsylvania), a guard (called a handrail here) must be capable of withstanding a 200 lb live load applied at any point along the top of the guard. University testing has revealed that many deck guard rail posts are insufficiently constructed to withstand such a load. And I do not write this to be a troll. Legal or not, people will inhabit a deck and lean against the guard railing. If it fails and someone gets hurt–everyone associated with the construction and inspection of the deck faces legal liability. If you build a substandard deck on your own home, the outcome could be much more tragic. Let the hate responses commence…
Haven’t read through all 321 comments, but wondering if anyone has asked why the post wasn’t installed on the corner? Will you have another post the same distance off the corner on the end of the deck where you were working? Regardless, I really appreciate this post! If the homeowner doesn’t like it…deck’im!
In permitting a project in Arizona, structural drawings would be required for this system showing it could stand 375 lbs of lateral force. They would have to be sealed by a structural engineer and it probably cost $800-$1000. Notching the post into the bottom perimeter edge joists is a standard detail found in m many existing rail systems. You can use that detail and cite the source for free – no structural engineer stamp needed. The notched system is also far stronger than this system and base caps can be used to prevent water infiltration.
Not sure if this would satisfy the IRC’s prescriptive deck construction requirements. The tension tie backs are designed to make the post, rim and joist a unitary system to resist a 500# moment applied to the post. That great big all thread ties the post to the rim, but doesn’t keep the rim tied to the joists, so it’s still possible to rotate the rim off the joists. Where I build in Illinois, I can guarantee any inspector I get would say “looks great, now take it out and add a tie back”.
im really curious to know what you are charging for deck work considering the amount of extra details you implement. I try to be within $45-$55 US per sq ft depending on wood type or composite, which is obviously a vague number but if you have any details you can share about your pricing structure id really like to know. Im moving fast into the high end deck and railing market in Denver and would really like to implement a lot of this stuff.
@ 13:26 that hole is going through the double rim joist? essentially it turned it into a single rim joist because that 2nd board only has maybe 1/2″ of wood holding the post now, if that. If someone pulled it inwards wouldnt that break right through the rim joist? I love this idea but it doesnt seem like much is holding that post.
Hi,this is a very funny place,where on the earth do you live?in the clip about railing support posts,there is a roof on a building behind your deck,it has some sort of thing growing on it,how can this be?either the roof isn’t draining the water or it retains moisture for these things to grow,either way needs replacement.good clip you speak very clearly very easily understood thanks again.
All great comments to note the obvious bad ass and ingenious prideful craftsmanship you are doing. A great example that you do not have to be that fast to provide a fantastic product. One Question,,, I am not sure what you were doing with the washer on the side,,, were you sliding that in to tighten from the top????
I was using a similar technique 25 yrs ago, that LJ Smith later copied somewhat; even improved. Instead of that 1 1/2″ hole in the side of the newel, just thread the rod into the newel. ( no visible plugs ) In the case you can’t get to the bottom side of the bolt; the same bolt can be threaded in the girder on a balcony. If done correctly, it’s tight as a tuning fork. I’ve never had one loosen, and I’ve done hundreds of stair cases / balconies. In not knocking your technique, just saying what I used to do. Now days, I just use the dowel bolt kits from LJ. It’s a lot faster, and just as strong. The kit comes with everything you need for one newel; except a 3/4″ ratchet wrench.
NICE JOB BUT STILL NOWHERE NEAR AS STRONG AS IF POST RAN DOWN INTO DECK FRAMING WHERE IT WOULD BE HELD IN PLACE WITH BLOCKING AND CARRAIGE BOLTS. HIS POST WILL EVENTUALLY LOOSEN BECAUSE OF THE HIGH LEVERAGE OF THE POST WHEN PULLED ON. BOTTOM EDGE ACTS AS FULCRUM AND, BELIEVE IT OR NOT, OVER TIME THE THREADED ROD WILL STRETCH AND FATIGUE.
ever heard of idefix by sihga? its a much simpler system, no need to cover up any holes at the side of the post. its basically a metal crown, countersunk in the endgrain and screwed with eight angled screws. in the middle of the crown you can now put a threaded rod. no need to drill a hole from the side since there is no nut to fasten. i am a carpenter from germany, we use idefix a lot. also the teeth of the crown stick out a bit to prevent the post from turning.
on a totally unrelated topic, I am also interested in how you position your plane blades for perfect alignment while sharpening them? do you have a jig that you have rigged, or did you buy something that works? Ideally, i would like a jig that i could adjust the pitch for specific purposes? ive thought of fabricating one at the shop but im not sure if there is something available that i could clamp down on the vice and adjust? if you have a tool that i should know about, please share? id also like to know what motivated you to be such a public figure, and details as to how the celebrity lifestyle is working out for you? P.S. what ive used up until this point to create a jig, is just my miter saw. i make a block of wood at the correct angle. The downfall of that method is that the wood dust from the block cloggs the sharpening stone and my efficiency declines.. anyway, if you have any thoughts on the subject, do tell. keep rockin’ on my Canadian brother
I did something almost identical to this on interior stair Newel post, there happened to be a joist underneath where the post sat. The post was and is still ridiculously sturdy after 18 years and having raised 4 boys using that post as a grab bar! I ended up using a 3/4 inch wooden rod and shaving it to cover the hole. It was ok, but I later used a square rosette to decorate it. Anyway, it is still holding no wobbles! I’m now going to do a mailbox post and I considered this but wanted to see if there was something different out there….. but I think I’m going back to the rod!
Even if you used lock washers, which you didn’t, those nuts will losen over time and that post is gonna wobble like nobody’s business. I used a technique like this about 10 years ago, it’s to the point now where it doesn’t even matter how much I tighten the nut, it still wobbles. Stick to pass through posts with backing blocks and timberlocks; solid as a rock for years. 😊
what are you going to use to stain or seal the deck? I’m very novice (and poor) so over the course of the winter I’ve acquired various pieces of cedar for a pergola I’m going to build. none of the pieces match each other and can’t decide best way closer to “uniformity”. Thanks for the articles and FtF
My only concern with this system is the post contact to the decking. This area under the post will retain a lot of moisture, could be a big fail point, especially since it was shimmed allowing a hairline gap for water to penetrate underneath. The decking could become very soft over time leading to a very wobbly post that could fail, especially since the post base is sealed off, helping to drive the moisture downward. I love the concept don’t get me wrong, but it just doesn’t make too much sense in my opinion. I hope that threaded rod is stainless or galvanized!
Although I enjoyed the article as well as the techniques displayed, I have questions. And as I read down through the comments, I see I’m not the only one. What I don’t see is answers. Sorry, but I don’t subscribe or upvote articles where the person who uploaded the content refuses to interact with his viewers.
Way to overkill elaborate. By the time you get one rail post set we could have had an entire deck built. Plus always think of the next guy coming in down the road to replace cracking rotted deck boards. Never attach a rail post directly on top of a deck board permanently that way. Make easy access to future deck board replacement. I just rebuilt a 12×40 two tier deck and was unpleasantly surprised to see that not only did the previous builder ignore every code in the book but attached 3/4 of the 6×6 rail post directly to the top of the deck instead of overlapping to the side and using carriage bolts/structural screws to attach which made it really tough to detach them all just to replace deck boards. Just a thought.
I’ve used this method for attaching posts to a stone slad on a couple occasions and it passed inspection but I’m in MA so not sure about other states. Here it just needs to be able to withstand 200 lbs of forward pressure. I would assume that if an engineer signs off on it that it would pass code in most places. However I have found that the shorter the rod the more stable. Just my experience tho.
Is that stainless rod and hardware or at least galvanized? When doing posts we use a threaded rod that has a machine thread on one end and a wood thread on the other. I drill at an angle and screw the rod in then using a pipe I bend the rod vertical, this will stop the post from ever loosening or turning. Love your vids. Thank you. So much God given talent and skill thanks for sharing it.
Hello Samurai, I’m from BRAZIL, I’m impressed with your work, I started working with wood a short time and I’m learning a lot with your articles, I thank you for the generous varieties of detail that you pass people like me, love this kind of activity, I see a lot of whimsy and good taste in their work, stay with God, a strong hug. Obs: I’m waiting for the next articles ……..
I was wondering what the deal was with the ridged ” pig” lol glad you answered .. although it did the job, I have the sliding compound miter saw from Dewalt . Can’t beat it ., although making comes out with a comparable saw and of coarse if you wanna spend a ton of money get the Festool .. I really want the domino cutter from festool … crazy expensive though .. any suggestions on a comparable domino cutter ? Update .. 5 minutes later . It would appear that festool has cornered the market with the domino, what did they do patten it so no one else can make them ? Jerks
Possible idea was hinted at in the article when he mentioned joinery. Instead of using a Forstner bit to drill into the side of the post, could use a mortice chisel drill bit to make a mortice giving access to the bolt, (no need to go back in with a chisel to make a flat bed for the washer) then make a corresponding tenon on the bottom rail of the banister to plug the hole. might take a bit more time and will probably yield the same result as the method shown
Excellent work ! You know what your doing, ignore the ones who try to correct you. If they knew what was what, they would have a website with 581K subscribers. Keep up the great work!! Question, what is the brand of leather tool apron you are using with the vest or suspenders? It looks rather robust but still very comfortable with ample storage.
good article. i just want to let u know that u r a good artist and i can tell u love what u do. i always appreciate people that put a love in to what they do. i see a lots of comment on your articles about people saying that over do it, or it wont pass inspection. im a carpenter myself i know how sometimes rules and money gets in the way on how we express ourselves as a artist. this is my third article i watched and u got a sub. keep it up
Way faster and stronger way to install rail posts than this. Looked like it took many hours to prep and install one post. I hope this doesn’t qualify as a “troll” or “info dorkie guy” or “tech-spec weirdo” by saying this. Two 3/8″ galvanized threaded rod, w/ washers and nuts, 90 degrees offset, vertically spaced 6″ apart with under-deck boxing will make any rail post rock solid. On this deck in the article, the outer rim joist is structurally redundant. The joists are sitting on forklift-style steel beams, the posts as close to the rim edge to buy max. deck area. Simply install longer beams. The threaded rod in this article can be fastened to the cedar post with Redhead acrylic cement. No need to side drill to fit washer and nut. The weakness with seating the cedar posts flat on the deck is moisture will eventually wick through the bottom end grain, attract bacteria and fungus and spread rot, even with a gasket. Cedar always must have an unobstructed straight down drainage path. Aesthetically having to shim the flat bottom creates an even more prone end grain for water to infiltrate. The best way to install posts is to strongly affix to the framing and scribe the decking to fit like a glove to enable water to drain straight down and not stick around. It is very easy to conceal each rod, washer and nut. Deck rails all come down to safety; the family picture portrait where 20 people are leaning against the rail for the photo. The rail has to withstand the forces while looking sharp.
what i found helpful when doing the handrails is to leave the post slightly loose then cut all my handrails so that top and bottom rail are exact measurement then install the unit sometimes i use a strap to ratchet tight them fasten them to the posts then ill tighten all the posts when i have the handrails in place this helps in making them true then if need be ill shim a post
I like everything about this connection but instead of carriage bolts (which I thought about using) I chose 1/2″ galvanized hex heads with a large washer. So I could get the added surface contact. But I’m not a contractor either. I start more projects than I finish too, so….Hey, I liked the art on your intro, subscribed!
I’m finishing up building my deck with my father in law. Thanks to my wonderful wife she had to get her dad involved. I’m very thankful he helped(since I never built a deck before) but what he had in mind and what I have in mind were complete opposites. He seemed to do the minimum to build a basic deck. Me on the other hand would have rather had an overbuilt, decorative deck and done my posts similar to yours. I would have loved to use cedar wood or possibly high quality composite decking. I’d rather save up my money for the highest quality material I can afford and take my time building it in hopes I’ll get a very long life from it.
I actually built my deck very similarly. The only thing is the bolts should go through your double rim joists because the joist load (shear load weight) is being transferred from your joists to your dbl rim joist and your ledger. The way you have it the weight that the bolts are carrying is only on the outer rim joists
I’m doing a 46×16 and doing my posts similar to yours. The science behind doing posts is worth thinking about. You can run a couple hefty carriage bolts through the outside rim joist through the 4×4 with a washer/bolt on the back. This is probably the norm for DIY’ers, and while strong back and forth, and side to side, the back and forth will twist your rim joist. Doubling up the rim joist with a lot of deep screws into the joists is a not too expensive addition which will help a lot with that flexing. A lot of my posts seem to fall in the middle of a joist run, so I am adding a 2x scrap on both sides and a blocker behind the 4×4. The 2x scraps just give a little more left-right support to the 4×4, and the blocker behind the 4×4 support it from back and front leaning or pulling on the railing and rim joist flexing. I’ve got about 18 posts, and saved about 25-30% by going with 1/2″ x 7′ galv hex bolts, 2 washer and a nut. Putting a slight countersink on the rim joist and similar on the inside of the facia piece alleviates the problem is seeing hex heads. I also ended up getting 5g Liquid Rubber to coat the ~1000 LF of joists vs joint tape. JT would have run $300-400 minimum, while the LR was $180 5g and I still have about 1/2 left.