How Is Traditional Lime Plaster Applied Outside Made?

Lime plaster is an ancient type of mortar used in historic buildings, consisting of sand, water, and lime. It was first used around 7000 BC and has long been used to protect masonry and live in historic buildings in the modern age. To make traditional exterior lime plaster, one must mix lime putty, sand, water, and any desired additives. Once the mixture is combined and applied to the chosen surface, it must be wet regularly for several weeks to cure it.

Lime is made by heating limestone in a kiln, leaving only calcium oxide, known as quicklime. When quicklime is combined with sand and water, it creates a durable and workable plaster that can stand the test of centuries. The process involves burning limestone to form quick lime (Calcium Oxide), then slaking the quick lime.

To preserve the country’s plastering heritage, it is essential to understand the materials, unlearning preconceptions, using traditional tools, and examining the original that survives. Lime plaster can be modified to fulfill technical and aesthetic needs, such as protecting masonry and living in historic buildings in the modern age.

In Kerala, lime mortar is traditionally made by mixing lime with sand, a little clay, and water. It may also contain reinforcement fibers like animal hair to strengthen the material. Lime plaster is made by heating limestone in a kiln, leaving only calcium oxide.

In conclusion, lime plaster is a versatile and durable material that can be used in various applications, including historic buildings. By understanding the materials, unlearning preconceptions, using traditional tools, and examining the original plastering heritage, we can preserve this country’s plastering heritage and continue to use it in the construction industry.


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What is ancient plaster made of?

The earliest plasters known to us were lime-based, with the people of ‘Ain Ghazal in Jordan using lime mixed with unheated crushed limestone to make plaster. This plaster was used on a large scale for covering walls, floors, and hearths in their houses. The terms “plasterwork”, “plaster”, “stucco”, and “render” are often used interchangeably but have regional variations. In this paper, “stucco” is taken to be a composition that can be applied to the whole or part of a building and can be used equally for plain covering or for mouldings and ornaments. Compositions range from lime and aggregate mixes (with other additives) to gypsum mixes, to cement and sand renders.

Up until the late 1800s, stucco, like mortar, was primarily lime-based, consisting of hydrated or slaked lime, water, and sand, with straw or animal hair often included. Interior stucco was generally made with gypsum, marble dust, and glue. It was often molded into ornamental shapes and polished to a marble-like finish. During the 17th and 18th centuries, elaborate painted figures and ornaments were made with stucco. After ca. 1860, Portland cement largely replaced lime for external renders.

Lime plaster is composed of calciumoxide (lime), obtained by heating calcium carbonate (limestone, marble, chalk, and shells) in a kiln to between 900°C and 1200°C. When heated, it changes to anhydrous calciumoxide or quicklime, sometimes described as unslaked lime or lump lime. When dried and ground to a fine powder, it is called hydratedlime or lime hydrate. The addition of highly reactive forms of silica and alumina, such as volcanic earths, ash or rock, brick dust, or ground iron slags, produces a hydraulic set. Gypsum plaster has been used for renderings and mortars since the time of the ancient Egyptians, as well as moulds, sculptures, and castings.

Modified gypsum plasters were patented in the 19th century as artificial marbles, many of which were cast into slabs for interior decoration. Portland cement was patented in 1824 by Joseph Aspdin and was made by crushing and calcining a “hard limestone”, mixing the lime with clay, and grinding the product into a fine slurry with water. Isaac Johnson discovered that overburnt lumps from the kilns produced a stronger, more reliable product with a slower set. Modern ordinary Portland cement is a hard, grey, impervious material mixed with sand for use as a mortar and a render.

How do you make lime paint for exterior?

To paint a brick wall or brickwork, start with 500ml of water and one cup of hydrated lime. Mix well and add more water or lime to achieve the desired paint consistency. Remember to mix the amount to avoid making putty. The original plan was to remove the garage door and enclose the garage with the same brick and window style. However, research has found contradicting opinions on the benefits of painting brick walls or brickwork.

How to make limewash for exterior brick?

An airless sprayer may be employed for the cleaning of bricks; however, for a more polished appearance, the use of a back brush is advised, ensuring that each brick on the structure is meticulously cleaned.

How was lime traditionally made?

Non-hydraulic lime is produced through the calcination of chalk or limestone, which results in the formation of quicklime (calcium oxide). This is then slaked with water, leading to the generation of calcium hydroxide. In the absence of clay, the resulting calcium oxide is designated as non-hydraulic lime. The formation of calcium carbonate, a process known as carbonation, occurs when carbon dioxide in rainwater reacts with the non-hydraulic lime, resulting in stiffening and hardening.

What is the difference between lime render and lime plaster?
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What is the difference between lime render and lime plaster?

Lime plaster is applied to internal walls using a traditional three-coat system, while external walls require a different product called lime render, designed for exposure to elements. Both plaster and render are commonly used in historic buildings from the mid-17th century to the mid-Victorian period. However, over time, lime plaster walls can deteriorate due to movement, external factors like impact or damp, and structural problems within the building.

Cracks and bulges in plaster can be superficial or localized, and may result from failure of the masonry or timber beneath or wider structural issues. To ensure the condition of your plaster, it is recommended to seek expert advice. Plasterite, with years of experience working in heritage buildings and with fibrous and lime plaster, can view, advise, and survey your property to check the condition of your walls and ceilings.

What is traditional lime plaster?

Non-hydraulic lime plaster, also known as air lime or non-hydraulic, is a soft and flexible plaster ideal for preserving delicate masonry. It sets slowly by carbonation and typically cures in around 12 months. It can stay wet for extended periods in damp conditions, but is sticky and easier to apply to ceilings and laths. The traditional three coat system is recommended for applying lime plasters, as it assumes warm, dry weather and may last longer.

Why is lime plaster no longer commonly used?
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Why is lime plaster no longer commonly used?

Non-hydraulic lime plaster is a caustic plaster with a pH of 12 and requires moisture to set. It requires several days to dry and is affected by industrialization, deskilling of trade crafts, and the widespread adoption of drywall and gypsum veneer plaster. Venetian plaster, a polished plaster, is widely used for wall and ceiling finishes. It consists of a mixture of plaster and marble dust, applied in thin layers using a spatula or trowel. Techniques like Marmorino, Scagliola, and sgraffito can be used to achieve different effects with Venetian plaster.

Marmorino adds marble dust to create a polished marble-like appearance, Scagliola imitates various types of stone, and sgraffito scratches the surface to reveal different layers and create decorative patterns. The number of qualified tradesmen capable of plastering with lime has declined due to industrialization and the widespread adoption of drywall and gypsum veneer plaster.

How to make traditional limewash?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

How to make traditional limewash?

Limewash is a paint made by mixing equal amounts of lime putty and water, aiming for a thin paint consistency. To add color, natural powdered pigments like the Coloured Earth Natural range are recommended. Mix the pigment with warm water to create a smooth paste, then add the coloured paste to the limewash. A maximum ratio of 10 parts limewash to 1 part pigment paste is recommended, as exceeding this can weaken the lime mortar structure.

Unpigmented limewash is clear when applied and turns white as it cures, while coloured limewash is dark upon application and lighter. It is recommended to conduct tests to determine the finished color.

How to make exterior lime plaster?

Lime plaster is an ancient alternative to modern plaster, made from sand, water, and lime. It has been used for centuries to create a rustic look and air purification. It is a traditional choice for plastering buildings, with its natural, rough appearance. To make lime plaster, start by mixing coarse sand with one part of lime, one part of sand, and another one and a half parts of sand. Mix the materials dry for five minutes, then slowly add clean water while mixing. Stop mixing when the desired consistency is reached. Lime plaster is characterized by its natural, rough appearance and is increasingly used for its rustic appearance.

What is the traditional method of plastering?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

What is the traditional method of plastering?

The conventional plaster application technique entails manual labor utilizing sophisticated methodologies, frequently employing lime, cement, gypsum, or a combination thereof with sand and water to produce a viscous paste.


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How Is Traditional Lime Plaster Applied Outside Made?
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Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

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18 comments

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  • Your plaster is perfect for pumicecrete walls Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12″to 24″ thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete

  • I like your presentation. I am building a new home with Perfect Block ICCF and am looking for a lost cost way to give the board and batten look. (Wife is set on Modern farmhouse). Steel siding is way out of this world in price, vinyl (will never use anyway) isn’t that much cheaper than steel ( material cost). I am thinking maybe I can create a smooth surface with lime plaster and add some sort of battens?? Any thoughts, anyone? Also, how is the paintability of the lime plaster being that the breathable aspect is not a concern here?

  • Question….. what is your experience in using “lime putty”, sand and water on rock retaining walls and rock built walls of old buildings? Would using a clay sand, straw or rice-hull mix base be better for insulation, a surface to build plaster putty on along with the insulative and breathability qualities?

  • Sorry … one more question 🙂 When I talk to people about the type of sand I need for hydrated lime there seems to be a lot of confusion out there. I called the local Mason supply company here in Portland, Oregon and they weren’t sure what kind of sand should be used with hydrated lime. They have all different kinds of sand … just weren’t willing to tell me which is best. Also it comes in bags which is very expensive. I can pick up a pickup load of masons sand at my local landscaping supply company. Do you think that could work? Any input you may have on this subject would be much appreciated!

  • Can you put lime plaster over a stucco house? Can it be put on wood eaves in fire prone areas? When you put over your earthplaster house, dont need prep except water wall? Do you make your lime putty as seemed expensive (thought ~$11/50lb bag Hyd. lime). Very fun, like your helpers also ! How often will it need a recoat?

  • Hey! Not sure if you would know, but would it work to have the outer layer of a straw house be made out of brick? I am wondering what the logistics of building a house like this in an area with heavy snow as well as monsoon seasons. I think that the insulation and fire resistance of straw bale homes would be perfect where I live, but water resistance is very important as is pest prevention, and I’m wondering if even a brick wainscotting would help? Or would it stifle the natural breathing process of the house? To my understanding brick breathes pretty well.

  • I want to plaster an exterior wall with lime that takes on ALOT of rain. The cement stucco is over compote, styroform sheets for insulation. There are cracks all in the cement stucco and it was just done in 2021. The inside of the wall is cement stucco so I won’t the get the breathability but I will get the water protection. Great article. Thank you.

  • I might have missed it, but, few questions: 1. The white lime puty you used in the beginning, it is already “ready”. Did you create it yourself, or bought something ready? and if so, how is the ready mix called?. 2. Can you take that white puty as it is and put it on the wall?, or you must mix it with sand and water as you did?, and what happens if you do put only the lime puty alone?. Thank you.

  • Hey Logan! Love the website and building philosophies. I’m building a red oak timber frame tree house, so I essentially have to do a 2×6 wall system (climate: northern Ontario, limited by sill plate size) otherwise I would do hempcrete or straw bale without a doubt. Do you have any experience applying lime plaster to rough cut wood or osb sheathing? Or any other option ideas for both my exterior and interior applications?

  • I was perusal and I thought about sharing something I know darn, I don’t post……. anyway, adding ammonia will give you control for doing texture you can make texture with the trowel and then wait 20 min then shave it with the edge of the trowel. having bleached white sand will make you able to color it with special powder dye/pigment that is only for cement. can you imagen a kinda dark blue rather than taupe beige color, or iron oxide on some areas one more thing, about the grade of the sand, is it 0 or 1 that you are using ??? when I use to do my own mix :goodvibes:😉 30 years ago, I used 0 white bleached.

  • Would steel framing work or is wood better for straw bail? Edit: did some research, it’s condensation, so you can if you cover them in wood. But how much support do the walls themselves need if the roof is fully supported by steel framing? Like if you leave the beams outside the walls, kinda like porch roof supports and then have the walls farther in with the wood to raise it off the concrete, wood at the top where it meats the roof, and wherever there are windows and doors. How much wooden support would the walls need? Also, can you make rounded walls?

  • You need (expensive) quicklime for a reaction. Quicklime (CaO) vs Hydrated Lime (Ca(OH)₂) Hydrated lime cures very slowly and without portland, will likely crack and have a weak bond from rain before curing. Either add Portland to the hydrated lime or use real quicklime. Also hydrated lime does not need to set in a bucket as there is no reaction. It slowly cures in the air.

  • I love working with lime, but the notion that it is carbon neutral is absurd. The amount of energy needed to burn limestone in a kiln far exceeds the CO2 that it will reabsorb, and this doesn’t even take into account the energy needed to dig it out of the ground and transport it. My father was a project manager in a limestone quarry and worked there for many decades. The co2 they produced was off the scale.

  • … and almost every article I watched is the same. They say what they use, but not how it’s made. I get that you use lime putty, but how do you make it? Lime and water? What is the ratio? Sorry, but all the articles I watch, everybody is super enthoustiastic, but at the end, they let you hanging with the products/ratio they use. I only watched a dozen articles, so maybe in the next dozen I will find some ratios.

  • I’m building in six months and always wanted a lime plastered exterior. Can I lime plaster straight onto bricks? Thinking of using the usual cheaper brick commons used in similar rendering situations. Let me know if I’m over thinking it and I should just go with the brick (its easily available, lots of brickies about to lay them), trust the DIY lime plastering process with good prep, safety and good tools and it will work out fine. Thanks.

  • Hello wanted to ask, in your opinion is possible to use cement (for better setting) with hydrated lime and sand (0,5:1:5 ratio) for rendering a brick wall layed with lime mortar, as it is quite difficult to find hydraulic lime in our region? Or even small amounts of cement will trap moisture, make wall unbreathable and ruin the bricks? Kind regards

  • What a fascinating introduction to what is obviously a hugely skilled job.These plaster artisans skip along with the job producing a wonderful coat to enshrine this beautiful home.The skill and knowledge all being quietly and stoically applied throughout their working day to produce a truly magnificent home.Each stage is a wonder in itself. Once again .a quality job from quality builders.

  • Thank you so much for the article! I’m renovating an old stone and lime walls and really really want to do it the right way and honour the fantastic building techniques of those times…. My house has been sitting without a roof for 12y and the walls are in such amazing shape, it’s amazing. Builders want to use cement… But I know that’s a huge no no for stone walls and want to do it the right way but really don’t know anything about it so trying to gather as much info as I can…. Builders tell me if I just use lime and sand that it will be too soft? Both for interior and exterior? Can you help me with any into on that? Cheers!

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