This tutorial demonstrates how to install an outdoor socket, which is a great addition to any home. Outdoor sockets are useful for plugging in power washers, lawn mowers, and other outdoor electrical equipment. The installation process is step-by-step, and expert tips and best practices are provided to ensure a successful and long-lasting installation.
The first step is drilling a hole to the outside of the property, which is the hole your cable will run through. Insert a 1/4-inch by 18-inch twist drill bit in the hole at a downward angle, ensuring the new outlet is below the indoor outlet. Drill through the exterior wall using a stud sensor to determine the side of the electrical box the stud is on. Place a 1/4-x 18-inch drill bit in the hole at a downward angle, ensuring the new outlet is below the indoor outlet.
In conclusion, installing an outdoor socket is a simple and effective process that can be done by tapping an indoor outlet for power or running power directly to a socket. It is essential to ensure that any socket installed outside is RCD protected to prevent potential accidents.
📹 How To Install an Outside Socket | External Plug Installation Guide
Welcome to my tutorial on how to fit an external power point. In this video I’m going to show you how I fit an outdoor socket step by …
Do outdoor outlets need to be on their own circuit?
Outdoor outlets don’t need to be on their own circuit, but they may be best installed on their own circuit to avoid having too many things running on one circuit or if you plan to add more outlets in the future. Kansas City Electricians can help with outdoor outlet installation and other electrical jobs, and their team at C. M. Mose and Son is available to answer any questions about this process. Contact them at 816-339-5190.
What are the rules for outdoor plugs?
The National Electrical Code (NEC) has specific requirements for outdoor wiring, including GFCI protection for all receptacles, with exceptions for snow-melting or deicing equipment powered by inaccessible outlets. The primary safety concerns include shielding against moisture and corrosion, preventing physical damage, and managing underground burial issues. These requirements apply to residential outdoor wiring projects, installing outdoor receptacles and lighting fixtures, and running wiring above and below ground.
“Listed” equipment must be authorized by an approved testing agency, such as UL. The main rules for outdoor receptacle outlets aim to reduce the likelihood of shock, a significant risk when a user is in direct contact with the earth.
Do you need an electrician to install a plug socket?
If you’re replacing a socket, you can do it yourself as long as you’re competent and take necessary safety precautions. This involves swapping a double socket for another double or a single socket for a single. Extra features like USB sockets and Wi-Fi are considered like-for-like as long as they’re the same format. If you’re just replacing and wiring the faceplate, you should be okay, but call an electrician if you’re unsure.
An exception is sinking a socket into a wall that was previously mounted onto it, which can be easier than fixing it using a pattress box. However, these sockets can be quite prominent and get in the way of furniture or doors. If you want to sink the socket into the wall using a back box, that’s a job for an electrician, not a like-for-like swap.
How much would an electrician charge to install an outdoor outlet?
The average cost for installing an outdoor outlet is $225, with prices ranging between $60 and $300. Outdoor outlets must be GFCI protected, making the project slightly more expensive than replacing indoor outlets. The cost per outlet depends on the number of outlets, with multiple outlets potentially reducing the cost per outlet and potentially allowing for a single visit from a local electrician.
Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets are safety mechanisms that monitor the flow of electrical currents through wires, protecting against potential shocks. The National Electrical Code mandates all outdoor outlets to be GFCI outlets, with outlet material costs ranging from $17 to $40.
Which type of cable is recommended for outdoor installation?
CMX cable jackets are essential for outdoor applications due to their high-quality construction from treated LLDPE. These jackets can resist temperature swings, remain operable in low temperatures without cracking, block moisture vapor, and protect against snow, ice, and UV light degradation. The choice of where to place the cable depends on the specific application. If used outdoors, a separate messenger wire is required, either velcro tied to a wire with messenger or velcro tied to a stainless steel wire securely fastened to the two structures.
Do outdoor sockets need to be on their own circuit?
External sockets should be on their own separate circuit, preferably an RCBO protected one, to isolate issues and prevent trips. In a thread starter thread, the double socket is on the internal ring. It is suggested to disconnect one side of the ring at the double socket, use in-line connectors, and extend the ring using a short run of conduit (3-4 inches) and 2. 5mm singles into the new double socket and back to the existing socket. This would break into the ring but use the existing double socket as the junction box.
Can I add a plug socket myself?
Replacing a socket or converting a single socket into a double is a simple job that can be done using special socket conversion boxes or using a standard double socket. To convert a socket to flush mounted, you need to remove the old box and create a larger recess for a new one. Surface mounted electrical fittings are easier, but flush mounted fittings are more attractive and less prone to damage. Electrical products must be installed in accordance with local Building Regulations and if necessary, a competent person registered with an electrical self-certification scheme. Safety precautions should be followed before starting any electrical work.
What wire should I use for outdoor outlets?
The new circuit cable and GFCI receptacle must have the same amperage rating as the existing circuit. For a 20-amp circuit, use 12-gauge cable and a 20-amp receptacle, while for a 15-amp circuit, use 14-gauge cable and a 15-amp receptacle. The NM-B 2-wire cable, cable clamps, wire connectors, weatherproof outdoor electrical box, silicone caulk, exterior screws, and GFCI receptacle are required. The new outlet should be located on the same side of the wall stud, in the same stud cavity, to avoid drilling through a stud to run the new circuit cable.
What size cable do I need for an outside socket?
Part P building regulation requires notifiable work, which can result in fines up to £5000. Standard indoor BS1363 sockets are not suitable for outdoor use, and a fully weatherproof IP67 socket and 2. 5mm Steel Wire Armoured cables with “outdoor” brass glands are required. Standard 1. 0mm twin and earth cables are unsuitable due to their UV stability, lack of mechanical strength, and moisture protection.
It is common for developers to use cheap foreign cable, Chinese-made switches, and cheap labor, leading to non-compliant test/compliance certificates. Hiring a part P registered electrician is recommended due to the experience needed in terminating SWA cable. Outside works are no longer notifiable since 2013, but it is still a legal requirement to comply with BS:7671.
In summary, notifiable work in building regulation requires paying for Part P consent from local authorities, using the correct type of cable and size, and hiring a registered electrician for electrical work. It is essential to obtain Part P consent from local authorities to avoid illegal work and potential fines.
How much does an electrician charge to put in a socket?
The cost of adding a plug socket to a room can vary depending on the type of socket and the type of installation. In the UK, the average cost is £100-£150 for double sockets, £100-£200 for USB sockets, £85-£135 for outdoor sockets, and £40 for labor installation. However, running multiple plugs from a single socket or using long extension cables can be unsafe, overload circuits, cause tripping hazards, and increase fire risks. Additionally, old and dangerous sockets may need replacement during an electrical safety check.
📹 How to Install the Easiest Outdoor Socket
Follow me through a step by step guide to installing the easiest external socket that I think anyone can install. This can be used for …
I do a fair bit of DIY around the house, and I have been agonising on how to wire a socket like this, for ages. I am not a competent electrician, and so I was delaying the installation as I didn’t want to pay an electrician a lot of money! Having come across your article, just by chance, and perusal it, has given me a lot of confidence. Your way of describing everything in detail, yet without jargon or confusing words is commendable to the highest. Thank you very much. Now, I’m off to B&Q!
Very impressed and I totally agree its the safest DIY method and also with the added bonuses you mentioned . One tip if using a set of pliers to strip back the insulation on the cables, is to do exactly what you did with the knife and score round first (basically griping the cable in the cutting edge and turning the pliers clockwise and back a couple of times ; this prevents both you gripping too tight and cutting it off completely and also helps prevent pulling the odd strand off too .. (apologies if this is mentioned below – 884 comments at the time of writing) 30+ years ago when doing my apprenticeship, we were always told to use strippers (cable ones!!!!) but, after a bit of practice you know just how tight to grip and it saves a bit of time as you can strip, cut and bend all in one go (so to speak! 🤔)
Nice one. I used a similar method to have a plug socket 40ft away from my house on my deck, but using armoured cable and an RCD plug to give a bit of extra safety just in case, given the exposed nature of the armoured cable running along my garden fence. 20yrs on and it’s still a functioning extension socket.
Hats off to you for producing a article that is easy to understand and follow. Your instructions are clear and concise and I particularly like the fact that you explain why you are doing something a certain way. subscribed. You have given me the confidence boost to actually do the work myself PS Why hadn’t I ever thought about using my hammer to space out clips ? I certainly will from now on. I am off to buy my outdoor switch – wish me luck.
Good article I was thinking of doing this in the summer, One little tip I lent over the years,when you cut wires to strip (live,earth,neutral) don’t pull the platic completely off the end,it gives you something to grip,then pull off end same time twisting platic and it’s twists strands so easy. (easy on the fingers,no sharp bits of wire)
Great article and love the idea of a plug inside the house. One tip when drilling holes in external walls, I always drill at a slight gradient keeping the drill slightly lower than the drill bit point. This way, if any water does ever get to the hole and the silicone has failed, the water would run down to the outside and not inside. I would also run a bead of silicone along the top of the external plug unit to be absolutely sure.
Great comment about using the hammer to keep the clips equal distance! It’s the little things that most people won’t notice (like the equal spacing of the clips, like the silicone in the conduit) that makes all the difference to the end result. Only just found the website so working through the articles, love what I’ve seen so far! Keep it up!!
When I prep. the ends of flex I use the insulation that the stripper’s removed to twist the strands. In other words, once the insulation is detached from the rest, I twist and pull it off at the same time. It’s quick and leaves me with a very neatly twisted end. Reduces wear on thumbs and fingers too! It’s easier to demonstrate than explain…
Great article, simple and to the point, just how i like them😁👍.. I’ve just set up a new lazy spa hot tub. Manual states that i shouldn’t use an extention to plug in.. would this technique count as an extention? I’ve got the lead coming in through my kitchen window at the minute and obviously this isnt a very attractive or practical way to keep it. Would installing an outdoor socket this way be safe? Thankyou😊👍
Wow! Matching up holes drilled from either side of the wall is genius! Personally, I would have bought a long enough drill, not worth taking the risk. My holes definitely wouldn’t have married-up and i would have had to go get a long drill in the end anyway! As for the flex along the skirting….it would be better to nail to the skirting board as it would provide a more robust, permanent fix. Nailing to the wall is generally not 100% successful, as inevitably they will become loose and pop out due to the natural pressure exerted by the flex of the cable. Plus, if the wall is brick, often the clip pins bend or the plaster/brickwork crumbles, causing extra patching work that the missus won’t appreciate😵💫 Plastic trunking could also be used along the skirting to conceal the flex, it can look a lot neater than the bare flex and can be painted to match the wall decoration. A great, easy way to add an external socket with minimum electrical skills. Utilising a smart plug to control it is a great idea👍
I have two of these boxes to fit. Thanks for the clear instructions. I had a friend drill through the cavity wall for me took a couple of minutes for both boxes. If he hadn’t done it I would have bought the drill bit. It would have save alot of stress and time trying to line them up. So many excellent tips. Cheers 👍🏼
Great article. I’ve seen you can buy these outdoor sockets with various length cables and the plug already installed. I wanted to use one this summer as a more permanent solution to running my pool filter but everyone seems to be advising me that I shouldn’t as it’s classed as an extension lead. Unless I’m missing something this is the same or am I missing something major? Any help would be grateful.
Hi Stuart, thoroughly enjoying all of your articles, great content and production. As a former electrician and electrical installation lecturer I agree that this is an excellent option for an experienced DIYer. This method removes the need to safely isolate, test and certify wiring attached to the existing circuit. As you mentioned this is an RCD protected extension lead so a great option for outdoor power. I used to teach the folding over method and the reason is that most terminals on electrical accessories are designed for two cables, so folding a single cable helps to fill the terminal and provide a more secure connection. Keep up the good work!
Great content. I needed an outdoor socket for my daughters rechargeable sit on car and my hot tub. I followed this process and it solved the problem I had. Great advice and I’m chuffed with my new outdoor socket. I also like the fact that I can isolate the power to the garden from the house. Took me a couple of hours to get everything done but works really well. Thank you 🙂
Phenomenal job mate! I’m less scared to do this now, As i thought these sockets all had to be wired into the fuse box of the house. Though I should have known they didn’t have to, as I’ve wired ceiling fans up by wire and plug before haha. Top quality article! ill be subbing and checking out your other content. Thanks for the upload – Stefan
Great article again; I did similar when I fitted a sump pump in my drive, easiest way to do it and be able to isolate it quickly and effectively. When I had my old dis board updated to a new consumer unit I asked the sparky to fit a double switched socket underneath for just this sort of thing. Never thought of a Timer or Smart attachment though! Good thinking!
Though perfectly fine, this does look like a bit of a bodge to those who dont unnderstand. Why not spur the internal (RCD protected?) Socket properly to an inline 13amp switched fuse, from which you run armoured cable externally etc? Same principle, the 13amp fuse will blow, but a much more professional install for hardly any more money.
Argh, you really need to use ferrules to terminate stranded wires before inserting them in a screw terminal. Especially in the terminals where the screw itself hits the wire. Not sure about the UK, but here it is against regulation to use non terminated stranded wire in a screw terminal. I would advise you to get that fixed, not only to comply to regulations but for your own safety. After tightening these screw terminals on stranded wire they tend to break most of the strands, giving a bad connection. For splicing stranded wires you can use wago 221 (without ferrule!!!)
Hi there, I just want to say I absolutely love your articles. Unfortunately I did have a dad who didn’t really teach me much and wasn’t really a part of my life. But I just wanted to say that I absolutely appreciate all the hard work you do. Thanks to you. I have installed new sockets in my stepdaughters office managed to put electrics outside the House and many more things that you talk people through. I suppose growing up, not being taught anything, it just looks all scary But when you put your mind to it and follow the basic steps how you put your content out it’s not that scary. I suppose it’s like riding a bike once you keep doing it you get better it every day but I just really want to thank you and appreciate your service. Like everybody else this has saved me hundreds of pounds getting chippy, Plumber, And Sparky, in I think you’ve mentioned it before. Did you say you had a membership page? As you clearly have saved me a hell of a lot of money. Dave
Good article but something worth noting is the 1.5mm flex should only be used in this instance and not when it’s connected directly into the installation. If you were using a double socket fed from the installation by 1.5mm cable, you have the potential to be pulling 26 amps along a cable which has a current carrying capacity of 15A as you mentioned. Fine in this case as it’s protected by the 13A fuse in the plug top. Also need to watch the length of runs as it’ll increase the earth fault loop impedance!
I’d 100% use bootlace ferrules on stranded wire. If there were to be any mechanical movement or vibrations in close proximity to the terminals. There would be a much lesser likelihood the terminations would come loose. We always have the conduit running at a slight downwards decline to the outside socket to prevent water ingress. As well as leaving the earth cables longer. This is because if anyone were to pull the cable (i.e inwards) the earth would cable would come out last. Doubling over the wire give a larger surface area for the terminal screw to clamp the cable. It’s good practice but not a requirement. It’s usually done more so on spur outlets and lighting terminals. Where there’s only a single cable being terminated. 👍
Watching from Canada.. Nice job, the codes are very different here and U.S., They wouldn’t allow that type of setup here (essentially an extension cord through the wall) thus braided flex wire is not allowed in that application, and outside plugs (assuming that is 240V), as you mentioned, circuit must be dedicated AFCI/GFCI circuit either at the box or panel. Just did one for my kids electric car and conduit must also be coupled/ secured at the box.
Good stuff. I like to pin the conductors if they are stranded and the connection is screw type as opposed to clamp, just for good measure. I’ve seen stranded conductors get damaged over time where the screw presses into it and make imperfect contact. Probably why the newer method insist on doubling down the exposed wire.
Little known fact – Part P regulations in Wales differ from England – it is illegal to add any external sockets or power to outbuildings without either using a fully CPS registered electrician or notifying local building control before hand and paying the £200+ fee’s. Wales still running on 2010 building regulations so kitchens and anything outdoors is still considered a ‘special location’ so no adding of fused spurs or extensions to circuits is allowed. This includes connecting the external socket via a plug like this – as it would be deemed a fixed installation, regardless if your plugging it in rather than through a fused spur. Just pointing this out – don’t agree with it though, personally – F building control, so long as your not an idiot and follow good article’s like this and have some reasonable skill….then do what ya want.
A word of caution ‘daisy chaining’ supplies where an an overload could occur is not advisable. A 13 amp BS1363 fuse can draw 21 amps on overload before the fuse will blow. A short circuit would blow it almost instantaneously. Also outside power supplies & lighting installations come under building regulation requirements & as such need to be signed off by a competent electrician or someone suitably qualified.
Hi, great article thanks ! One question, I followed the process and agree I wouldn’t want a drain hole as this would in theory affect the IP rating – however I have noticed after heavy rain there is condensation in the front black plastic section in front of each plug. Have you also found this and has any water got into your socket now you’ve had for a while? Guess you can’t have sealed and no condensation
The only criticism i have is when you say ” if moisture gets in switch it off and it’s isolated”. If there is moisture in there it would still trip the rcd out by neautal to cpc fault. You would have to remove the plug. 90% of all tripping faults i get called to are people leaving appliances switched off, not unplugged
Quick question – the socket shown in this article looks far better quality than I can find, BG Elect. had to return (poor quality). Would appreciate it if you could you send a link or the name of the one you have please. Great articles, no nonsense, great quality, thank you so much, I find them invaluable. 👍
The ‘YouTube algorithm’ suggested your garage door article. I was impressed by your presentation, so watched some more of your articles. I may copy your workbench. Your website deserves to grow 😀 As an industrial maintenance electrician I can confirm that this is the best method for a DIYer to fit an external socket, and for me too as there is no need to be part P registered as existing circuits are not altered. You have shown how to safely install a fixed, waterproof extension lead. I would echo the comments regarding using ferrules to keep the copper strands secure in the socket terminals, but your twisting then folding of the copper wires is the next best solution. Nearly all connection issues I encounter are caused by the screw becoming slack against the copper wire over time, by filling the terminal with more copper wire the strands are less able to move as the screw is tightened ensuring that when tightened the connection will remain tight.
Another top tip filled vid, i see your point with the cable clips i normally put a well positioned 6 inch nail straight through the cable every 6 inches to make sure the cable is firm to the wall and have no concerns over safety as when its all plugged in i normally get the neighbors kids to stand in a bucket of water and lick the cable and switch so far no issues, keep the vids coming as they are very helpful. P,S top tip about the remote switch for the power i will wire in the mother inlaws chair and see if it lights her up from a safe distance taking into account health and safety guide lines
What a nice job! Just completed a similar job, using these instructions, and I have to say – it went about as good as I could have wished for. Kudos to Proper DIY for an outstanding, easy to understand, and thorough approach to the project. Let’s start out with the elephant in the room: Getting an electrician in, tapping into a ring circuit, doing all the tests, and issuing a certificate of compliance is going to cost several hundred pounds. As it should, given the cost of testing equipment, skills of the electrician, etc. This approach sidesteps most of the costs, while maintaining the safety inherent in the UK electrical code.
I am not an electrician, so just wanted to check something. The list of products states a 1.5mm Flex cable, I’ve read that 1.5mm is for lighting and 2.5mm should be used for sockets. However the 2.5mm is real hard to get into a plug! If I use the 1.5mm cable am I still safe? Great upload, it’s helping a lot.
I think I might do this myself. I’ve had enough of dragging an extension lead and hose on a reel from the exterior socket and tap in the back garden whenever we wash the car. The only sensible option for power is the sockets under the front room window. That’ll work. No trailing cables and no trailing hose as I’ve fixed it to the side of the house and all we need is a short length to attach when washing.😊 Follow up: installed as I said I would but also added an alexa based wifi plug to operate it. Added a LED driveway light on the first floor powered in the same way. Both voice activated, bloody clever stuff! I’ve even turned the light on from a different country!😂
Hello there. Thanks for that. It helped me to decide as I had this idea in my mind but I was looking for reassurance. Just one query I still have. I have two outdoor sockets. Following exactly your article, I reckon I just need to put L/N/E together, of course, my rookie question is if I should connect another earth wire between the 2 outdoors sockets? It would be nice to see a small continuation of this article teaching that, to be honest. Wonderful teaching. Many thanks, Sir.
Excellent vid, will be fitting one of these next spring. However this has got me thinking. I’m putting in a media wall with TV etc. To break into ring main will be a lot of work and messy. My nearest socket is over 2m away, I could run an extension cable but it would look rubbish – I’d like to see a finished socket…. so could I adopt a similar method for an indoor socket?
Great article. I am looking at using a socket with the integrated RCD. If I then put a smart switch on the plugged end, will it keep turning off the RCD when it switches off and having to be manually reset? Would it be better to plug a stand-alone RCD on the plug end and have the smart switch plugged into it? Thank you.
Superb, I am on my own and wanted an outdoor socket for the lawnmower. I have put my socket under the porch area so it is protected from rain etc. but have followed the article and done mine to a plug as well. Wasn’t sure that was correct but your article confirmed it was all ok. I did however use electric cable that was suitable for outdoor use. although a bit more difficult to work with. Many thanks.
Thanks for this Might seem like a stupid question But at the end you said you could install outdoor lights But just wondering how you could do that? Because you would need to leave the plug in on the outdoor for the lights which would compromise the waterproofing of the socket Am I missing something?
Well, after looking at so many articles on this subject, I decided that your 13amp plug solution was the one to go for. I think it was the only one with that idea!!. I followed your instructions and found it all worked out well, with one modification, I put the cable in some trunking. Ohh what a game that was!!! But I liked the look as it was in the Living Room. The conduit through the wall was an interesting time, getting to stay in place when sealing it. It kept on moving. Recommend, longer is better than shorter!. Thanks so much for giving me the confidence to do this job
Excellent article. I have a question though. Could I run two of these from the indoor twin socket, each connected by a plug? Or could I connect as you have and then run a spur from one outdoor socket to the other? If doing so is a risk would I just be better running the 2nd outdoor socket from a different indoor socket? Thanks for your advice.
Not really enough information in the article regarding shock protection/earthing. Outdoor equipment should have 30ma rcd protection. To prevent anyone getting a fatal shock. A 13a fuse in the plug gives no shock protection at all. In many cases an rcd plugin or an rcd socket, or an RCD at the consumer unit will not do. If the main earth is PME you must not export the earthing to outside.The earthing must be separated from the main household earthing and a separate configuration provided for supplies outside the main building..ie earth electrode plus 30ma rcd. Sorry to be negative, but a little knowlege can be dangerous..this method has its problems and risks.
I followed your advice to install an outdoor socket yesterday. Only after I installed did I read the instructions that say drilling out the rear knockout also compromises the IP rating. It seems the only way to retain the IP66 rating is to use a bottom knockout with the appropriate gland (and an unsightly wire coming out the bottom of the socket). This makes sense if the socket is remote from the house/garage but when on the side of the house is not a good look in my opinion.
This guy it so skilled and teaches people yet he still has to justify everything he does to prevent criticism. “His clips are upside down!!” So what? Hes taught you a valuable lesson for free, saved you money and let’s face it it looks tidy too. Let’s stop the negative comments and let him teach without worrying.
Hi, great article and I’ll be doing hat job this week. However as per your link I ordered the internal box for cable to come thorough however the one you have linked is not what arrived, its only the back box that arrived with no cover plate at the front and the box itself is a different design to the one you used in our article ie yours has a circular hole in mid middle of the box and a hold at the bottom to feed the cable through towards the floor etc. Maybe worth checking the link?
I’ve just done this after perusal your article. Decided to run the cable round the back of the fridge freezer. After moving the fridge for access all going well but then noticed the freezer door screws were really loose and door hanging off. The screws holding it on were not doing anything and had no bite left, no wonder it had been leaking. so then spent the next few hours taking fridge freezer doors off to fix it all. So now got a double socket right next to shed and a fixed freezer 🙂
At last! New viewer and I have subscribed as you do d-I-y at my level (trimming the cable!) lots of websites say for a amateurs but then do stuff I will never do! And with you use UK t&c’s. I just paid for a spark to fit an outside 13amp supply “because it had to be terminated to the mains”, I never considered a simple plug top…….I could have done all this very happily. You, my man, you could save me cash whilst educating me! Bob England
Unfortunately this type of socket has a design fault in that the Spring powered hinge has a nasty habit of breaking it’s housing. The plastic is very weak at this point and the inevitable perishing of it will mean it’ll lose its strength and the hinged cover will break free rendering it’s IP integrity void.
An excellent article, but in Australia it would be illegal to do it unless you are a certified electrician. You can’t make your own extension cord. You can buy all the bits without having to show a licence, though. If your house caught fire as a result of your DIY, your insurance will we void. Oh the joys…
Sorry but I think it’s a mistake not to open the drain hole. We have all seen outdoor rated fittings, lighting etc with water trapped in them. Every time the temperature changes the air inside expands and contracts, over time it’s going to suck in moisture no matter how well you seal it. The drain hole at the bottom rear is not going to allow water splashes to enter, unless you point a hose directly upwards at the base of the socket, but it will allow for any moisture that does enter to leave.
Excellent tutorial, my only additional thoughts could be; perhaps a cable tie at the external box on flex to reduce risk of pull, & I’m connecting mine to a fused spur as my environment varies & the internal cord, although temporarily used is vulnerable along skirting, but obv. I’ll lose the benefit of being able to use a timer which is an excellent idea, but I suppose it varies depending on the occupants eg my wire- chewing dog 😬Love your articles BTW
This is classed as ‘notifiable work’. This requires a Building Regulations application to be made in advance so the work can be inspected and checked. However, in most cases the electrician can self-certify their work as they’re normally registered with a body that gives them the necessary ‘registered installer’ status (also known as ‘competent persons’) such as the ECA (Electrical Contractors Association) or NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting). A ‘non-qualified’ person can still carry out notifiable electrical work as long as Building Control are informed – but if you fail to do this and the work is found to be unsafe, it can lead to a hefty fine. Upon completion of the job, it is a legal requirement for the electrician to test the new system and hand over a signed BS 7671 electrical safety certificate. If you are perusal a youtube article on how to fit a plug socket, you are not a certified electrician and are not insured or covered and neither is your work 🤷♂️
Good drilling ! I confess I would always take it off an existing socket as a spur . Yes I know it means opening the wall plate and isolating but it’s a much nicer job internally instead of runnng wires n skirting etc, in my mind. I always do basic testing of it using a testing plug that tells me if it’s good etc when done that way and never had any issues .. I imagine the electricians will be horrified that a DIY’er dares to wire a socket themselves though …
I have a question, I’m thinking of doing this for one main reason.. to plug an inflatable hot tub onto an outside socket but have one concern and that is; On the instructions of the hot tub it states to not plug it into an extension lead, is this method technically classed as an extension so the hot tub will fail? Many thanks Richard.
I actually bought a longer drill bit but in fact it was no good, because when it came through to the other side it blew out the rendering and left a big exit wound that needed to be redone and repainted! so drilling from both sides is definitely better, if you can figure out exactly where to mark, very clean and nice skill!
I actually couldn’t tell you how I ended up on this article, but thats the magic of YouTube! aha! I haven’t Googled on how to do this yet, but was actually thinking about doing this soon, now I’ve seen this article, thats just given me the push to go ahead with it. And I’m glad I did find this article(its a great article) because I was actually going to connect to the ring main. Not anymore, such a better idea to have it plugged in instead. Thanks, buddy! You also just gained another subscriber! 😬 Keep the great articles coming!!
Superb article thankyou. This works really well as one of the things that concerned me about having an outdoor socket (in a shared path), was other people plugging things into it. This way, when I’m not mowing/strimming I can just switch off at the plug! Impressed that you could line up two drill holes.