The window sill “horn” overhang should be determined by measuring the distance between two wall marks and adding 1-1/2 inches to factor in the ¾” overhang on each side. The width of the window sill depends on the thickness of the wall window jambs, and can range from 2 to 10 and even 20 cm. The amount that a window sill should extend beyond the casing can vary depending on the size of the window and type of window. Generally, the sill should project an ¾” overhang.
To embed the window sill in the wall to the sides, you must add this dimension as an overhang for both the left side and right side. The distance should be between 3/4 of an inch and 2 inches, with indoor window sills being best. To measure the depth of your window, use a 5/4 quarter board or 1x material and cut a ½” x 1″ strip with a table saw to leave a ¼” gap.
The window sill should overhang from the front edge of the wall or window frame at least 3/4 inch, with the ability to hang over more if desired. The sill should fit the scale of the window and reflect the style. The window sill length should be 30mm to 50mm, with no less than 30mm recommended.
For an overhang past the backsplash, a 150mm sill will give around 40mm projection, while a 180mm sill will give about 70mm. If you want an overhang for aesthetic reasons, add the desired depth (30-40 mm) to the wall using wall plugs and screws. For example, 1000mm + 10mm = 1010mm.
📹 How to Replace Water Damaged Window Sill and Trim
In this video, I fix my rotted wood window sill and trim. Parts of the wood were so saturated with water that they felt like a sponge so …
How do you fit an interior window sill?
Window sills are crucial for protecting the wall from rain, condensation, rot, and mold, and adding beauty, style, and value to a property. To install a new sill, pre-drill holes to prevent splitting or damaging the wood, place the skirting board, drill in finishing nails just below the wood’s surface, use an adhesive if needed, and apply a finish to the nail heads. If you choose the right product, you can easily fit a new window sill yourself, but if you’re wary or have limited experience, it’s recommended to consult a professional.
How much does a window sill overhang?
To install an interior window sill, mark a 3/16″ or ¼” reveal mark on the window jambs, hold a scrap piece of window trim casing against each window side, and mark a reference line on the wall. Determine the window sill “horn” overhang, typically using ¾” for an overhang. Measure the distance between the two wall marks and add 1-1/2 inches to factor in the ¾” overhang on each side. Cut the window sill stool to length, if desired, and sand out the router bit mill marks.
Hold the window sill against the window and on the layout lines, using a compass scribe to mark where it meets the window sash and wall. Trim the stool along the scribed lines using a jigsaw, set it in place, and make necessary adjustments to ensure the window sill is tight to the window and flanking walls. Attach the stool to the windowsill using 6d or 8d finishing nails.
How to measure internal window sill?
In order to ascertain the dimensions of the interior window sill, it is first necessary to measure the width of the wall opening. This measurement should be taken from the outer edge of the wall opening to the inner edge. The resulting measurement should then be subtracted by 5mm, which represents the installation allowance. The depth of the window sill should then be measured in order to determine the overall size of the window sill.
Are interior window sills necessary?
Interior window sills are essential for functionality and water resistance, as they prevent water from slipping through gaps and keep rain off the floor. They balance the weight of thicker walls, protect the wall from scratches, and enhance the structure of a window. Additionally, ample window boards can create shelves and enhance the interiors of a home, making them a valuable addition to any home.
How far should a window sill stick out from the wall?
A window sill should overhang from the wall or window frame at least 3/4 inch, ensuring it fits the window’s scale and style. The most popular style of window sill is modern with squared ends, while traditional, transitional, or eclectic homes can have rounded or square ends. Craftsman window trim, like ours, fits a wide variety of home styles and is easy to add. An apron is optional, but it serves a purpose of covering gaps, adding a decorative touch, and helping define the style of a window. It is important to consider the style of your home and the trim you choose, as it can be easily added to fit a wide variety of home styles.
Do windows need an overhang?
Eaves and overhangs are crucial for preventing water damage around windows by preventing water from falling into cracks or gaps in the walls. They also redirect water from above away from the window, preventing water exposure. However, too short or angled eaves and overhangs may not effectively divert water away from the window, and they may even direct water towards the window instead of away from it. Therefore, it is essential to choose the right type of eaves and overhangs for your specific needs.
What is the minimum window cill overhang?
It is recommended that the sill have a minimum overhang of 25 mm from the building’s facade.
How much should an internal window sill overhang?
Window sills should stick out between 2 to 10 cm and be between 3 to 15 cm longer than frames and architraves, depending on the thickness of wall window jambs. The overhang can range from 2 to 20 cm. The main parts of a window frame are Casement and Slash, with the latter being the most widely used type. The overall size, design, and weight distribution of windows should also be considered when selecting sills. The main parts of a window frame are crucial for maintaining a cohesive structure.
How far should window sill stick out?
A window sill overhang should be approximately 1 inch (25 mm), which indicates the distance the window board extends beyond the wall’s edge. It should be noted, however, that personal preferences may vary. Some individuals utilize the thickness of the window board, such as 18mm, as a reference point, which can result in a sill that extends even further.
What is the minimum overhang?
The countertop overhang is a crucial aspect of any kitchen or bathroom counter, extending beyond the cabinets below. Its primary function is to protect the cabinets from spills and damage, and to determine the best use of the counter. The most common standard countertop overhang measurement is one and a half inches, which is ideal for creating a comfortable workspace for people to rest their forearms while preparing food. However, the perfect distance depends on the intended purpose of the counter, which can range from one inch minimum to as much as 12 inches.
The overhang is often overlooked when designing a counter, but it is essential to consider its importance and its impact on the use of the counter. A bigger overhang can allow for countertop seating, while a standard measurement of one and a half inches is the most common. The perfect distance depends on the intended purpose of the counter and the overall aesthetic appeal of the room.
How high is an interior window sill?
The 24-inch minimum window sill height is designed to minimize the risk of injury to children from falling through open windows. This is due to the fact that windows are typically above the center of gravity of children, thereby reducing the likelihood of them toppling over the sill.
📹 How to fit Window boards with and without power tools
How to fit window boards the old way and the new way!! I cut a fix the window board only using hand tools other than the drill that I …
Interesting to see that MDF window reveals are becoming more common in the UK. In NZ the became fairly popular in the nineties. After the ‘leaky home syndrome’ exposed in the early noughties, no one puts MDF anywhere near windows. It has lost a lot of popularity even for skirtings and architraves. It would take a lot to persuade me to use it again.
Sandpaper is always with me to take arris’s off everything, including light rub over architraves face to make joint invisible. Painters love me and never see anyone else take that care. Been doing this for 40 years so not gonna change. Once the old school joiners have gone I fear for the trade, in fact that goes for every trade
In 1952 my Liverpudlian dad built a very simple home just outside Toronto. He had no power tools. It was still standing in 2005. Absolutely nothing fancy. Your accent is not quite my dads, and of course u r much younger. It’s a real pleasure to c the amazing advances in carpentry/joinery. I think your MDF is better quality than our “particle board” which I have always viewed as junk. Anything here made out of particle board, especially countertops is very disappointing.
Offering the board to the window and marking it is something I will be doing from now on thank you. A little thing I do different is I have an inch offcut of the bullnose detail and place it on the back of the lug then transfer the lines through to plain off. Not sure it’s any quicker than your method. 😃.
All my window boards were as you say soft wood or hardwood. All cut out by hand and planed with a block plane to shape. I left in 1998. Never saw an MDF one used. I know you can get that really expensive outdoor MDF now. But I bet those aren’t made of that. So how do you go using just “moisture resistant” MDF. That in reality is about as moisture resistant as a sponge. In an area prone to condensation and moisture. Do you have blown window boards all over the UK now. We always used to put tie downs on the front edge of the board that got plastered in to stop lifting. The Aussies are too lazy to muck around like that. If you want reveals you tell the window mob what size you want. All four the same. And they come from the factory on. Haven’t done a window board in 25 years.
I’ve just installed a splayed window reveal with softwood board. Not a carpenter, never done it before. Thankfully, dewalt track saw with angle cuts to the rescue. I needed the extra depth (sash window, old house – new refurb) so I butted the pine wood window sill tongue against the window and added a new tongue under it – a plywood strip glued and clamped against the existing tongue, sticking out just enough. It’s not hugely solid but I bedded that tongue into the window groove with silicone and it all sits nicely. Actually it kind of stuck out too far so there’s a tiny gap which I have cut some very small beading to cover. I plan to add beading on the side reveals (MDF) as well, so it will hopefully look quite nice. It’s a north facing window into a lightwell so no direct sunlight. Sanded the sides of the bullnose / overhang of course. I like the way Robin cut the form with a plane, I just went at it with 80 then 120 sandpaper and hoped for the best. I did all this before plasterboard goes up. Reason for doing before plasterboarding was that I wanted panelled reveals at an angle (MDF not plasterboard) and needed to prep the edges of those panels so they sit flush for plasterboard (with stop bead) then architrave to go over them. Is it normal to fit a window sill before plasterboarding? I see everyone seems to do it. One other benefit was that I could screw from below through 2×4 stud. I put about 6 screws and shims along the length. Might add a few blobs of foam under there before sealing against studs with silver foil tape for air tightness.
When I’ve done the exposed ends of window sills I’ve used a strip from the MDF board with the rounded edge on it. And rather than cut at 90 degrees, I’ve done it at 45 and effectively mitred in the edge. Bit of glue and job done. Not as sturdy as just making the rounded edge by sanding/routing but good enough for most situations.
Interesting, ive always assmembled as one piece and slipped the whole thing in. Your showinf the sides on top, ive always cut back and screwed the sides onto the top and bottom jamb. Sloping for condensation doesnt make sense unless your dealing with poor window efficiency in that case they should have glass upgraded or inserts on the inside etc ro deal with that
Terrific ! What happens if you want a thermal break under the board ? I’ve been reading a lot this weekend and doing some calcs as I’m going to be doing window reveals for our timber frame dormer, with external plastic cladding soon. From what I read the reveal has to have a u value of .7, and from my calcs if you’ve got a 4x 2 running under the window/ trimming the sides – you can’t hit .7 unless you have 20mm of celotex under plaster / the window board. For the sides / header a piece of bonded celotex / plasterboard seems good – with corner beads so plaster goes over everything – so presumably that means 20mm of insulation under the wooden board, again with a corner bead so one can skim up to the underside of the mdf …? I guess for some reason in your wall make up (external insualtion? Albeit I can see insulation bonded to the plaster board presumably to stop cold bridging …) Eg copy and paste here – “Part L1b of the Building Regulations recommends that the minimum performance of any insulated element should have a U value no worse than 0.7 w/m2K. This U value should be used as the minimum standard for a reveal.” So unless the insulation is external – that means there has to be insulation here or the timber becomes a cold bridge. How do you deal with this situation robin …? Having layers of insulation makes it harder to ensure the window board doesn’t “squidgy” if sat on into the insulation …
Love you man, this is the first article I’ve watched of yours where I feel you missed a trick. I know its not your doing but if the window board was just a little higher on the window it would of lost the rubbish detail of the windows outside sill. Much cleaner if that’s under the top face of the window board. If a piece of plasterboard was put on before the sill it would of raised it up by 12.5mm and still been fine to plaster/dry line. Bit of a bug bare for me as those window sill lips always trap dirt and look messy, especially white ones.
Come on, Rob. If all the house building trades were to indulge in such niceties it would add several pounds to the cost of each new home. How would the CEOs justify their bonuses? Jeff Fairburn of Persimmon had his bonus cut all the down to £75 million a couple of years back – probably because some carpenter somewhere got a bit extravagant with a window ledge!
Can I add the window boards after plastering? New build, block walls. Wondering do I add before sand and cement plaster and final skim plaster, after sand and cement plaster but before skim plastrr or after all plastering and make tight window board fit with some calk if required. Many thanks in advance for the advice.
Window boards are lot easier to put in when the plaster board isn’t on the reveals. The only 2 observations I’d make are what’s the point of planing off your saw cuts when you finishing with glass paper? 2nd would be that allowing your shoulder overhang to be the same as the front edge o/h then adding the plasterboard on top increases the shoulder length!
Robin, your sanding technique needs to match your text book perfect hand sawing. To produce a curved surface you need to drop your wrist rather than your finger tips. You are sanding by allowing your point of contact to move away from you. Your finger tips fall away from you going over and down. Instead, start the sanding at your furthest point, gradually dropping your wrist and your finger tips rising. The point of contact then moves towards you which due to the articulation of the shoulder, elbow and wrist joists has a tendency to produce a better curve. Your way, the radius of the curve tends to increase as the contact point goes away down, and around. It also produces a ‘scrubbing action’ rather than a smoother ‘stroking’ action. Difficult to explain in words, but have a look at a metal worker filing a curve on a piece of steel. It is one of the very first techniques metal workers are taught. Always love your vids, keep them coming.
Please please MDF is paper, when I fitted widow boards the tongue would sit in the grove of the window cill and the front would be fixed with two holes and tying wire and a cut nail bent over, the window board would be sapelia pine with no knots, proper job that would last for two hundred years, do you honestly believe that MDF would last long ‘ and were is the character,working with dust and glue has no hart, ❤