Radiant barriers are shiny panels or membranes that reflect radiant heat away from their surface or emit minimal heat from the side opposite the heat source. They are highly effective in controlling temperature by blocking up to 97 percent of the sun’s heat from entering a roof or walls. The roof is the part of your home through which most energy escapes, accounting for around 30 percent of total energy loss. Equipping your roof with proper protection, such as a radiant barrier and sufficient insulation, can help reduce summer heat gain and cooling costs.
A radiant barrier is a layer of aluminum foil placed in an airspace to block radiant heat transfer between a heat-radiating surface (such as a hot roof) and a heat-absorbing surface. Some studies show that radiant barriers can reduce cooling. An external airspace and radiant barrier will decrease the wall’s effective temperature differential in summer but increase it in winter, meaning that the radiant barrier will.
To be effective, the reflective surface must face an air space. Dust accumulation on the reflective surface will reduce its reflective capability. Radiant barriers are particularly useful in hot/humid climates when houses have unshaded south and west facing walls. The wall absorbs radiant heat from the sun and heats up, then travels by conduction through a wall made of wood and insulation. Radiant barriers only work with an air gap, and dust accumulation on the reflective surface can reduce its reflective capability.
A radiant barrier blocks solar radiation and minimizes heat conduction, creating cooler living spaces and cheaper energy bills. However, it loses its ability to reflect heat when it comes in contact with another material. Radiant barriers work by reflecting radiant energy back to its source, significantly reducing radiant heat gain through the roof or walls where they are installed.
📹 Radiant Barrier Walls with Rigid Foam Insulation
You hear alot about radiant barriers but they need to be installed correctly. In this video you’ll see the correct way to install a …
Does a radiant barrier need an air gap?
Insulation materials slow down conductive and convective heat flow, while radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems reduce radiant heat gain. To be effective, the reflective surface must face an air space, and dust accumulation on the surface can reduce its reflective capability. When the sun heats a roof, radiant energy travels through the roofing materials to the attic side, causing the hot roof material to radiate heat onto cooler attic surfaces.
A radiant barrier reduces radiant heat transfer from the underside of the roof to other attic surfaces. It works best when perpendicular to the radiant energy and has a greater temperature difference between its sides.
Do radiant heat barriers work?
Radiant barriers are a cost-effective solution for reducing heat transfer in interior spaces. When properly installed, they can reflect up to 96 percent of radiant heat, keeping interior spaces warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Traditional insulation, such as fiberglass and sprayfoam, is ineffective against radiant heat transfer. Radiant barriers work well on their own and are often used in conjunction with traditional insulation to prevent all three forms of heat transfer.
To be effective, a radiant barrier requires an air gap on at least one side. This gap prevents heat from quickly conducting through the barrier, making it ineffective. Radiant barriers, like stainless insulated cups, use an air gap between the inner and outer layers to effectively reflect radiant heat without converting it into conductive heat.
Does radiant barrier require an air gap?
Radiant barriers, when installed, can be more effective due to the presence of an air gap. An air gap provides an additional layer of insulation, preventing heat from passing through the barrier and into the living space. It is recommended to leave an air gap of at least 25mm (1 inch) between the barrier and the surface it’s installed on for proper ventilation and moisture prevention. However, radiant barriers should not be used as a substitute for traditional insulation materials like fibreglass or mineral wool. Instead, insulation boards should have an air gap between the insulation material and other surfaces to provide ventilation and prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to mold and other issues.
Should air barrier go inside or outside the wall?
The air barrier is a crucial component of the thermal envelope, which is the insulation that blocks air flow between conditioned and unconditioned spaces. It can be installed on the interior side of the insulation, the exterior side of the insulation, or both, depending on the building component and the climate. For example, in ceilings in IECC Climate Zones 1-3, the air barrier can be aligned with either the interior or exterior horizontal surface of the insulation.
In walls, the air barrier (e. g., OSB or rigid foam sheathing) should be aligned with the exterior vertical surface of the insulation in all climate zones and also at the interior vertical surface of the wall insulation (the drywall) in Climate Zones 4-8.
In terms of floors, the air barrier should be aligned with the exterior vertical surface of the insulation (at the rim joists) in all climate zones. If the floor is over unconditioned space, the subfloor must be aligned with the interior horizontal surface of the floor insulation. To ensure continuous air sealing, it is essential to determine the components that comprise the air barrier, especially where one building component meets another, such as at the rim joists.
The location of the air barrier in the ceilings, walls, and floors is determined by the home’s climate zone location. ENERGY STAR requirements dictate that the air barrier must be continuous across all components of the thermal envelope. An air barrier is defined as any durable solid material that blocks air flow between conditioned and unconditioned spaces, including necessary sealing to block excessive air flow at edges and seams and adequate support to resist positive and negative pressures without displacement or damage.
Rigid air barriers are recommended but not required by ENERGY STAR Single-Family New Homes. Open-cell foam has a finished thickness of 5. 5 inches and closed-cell foam has a finished thickness of 1. 5 inches. Flexible air barriers should be fully sealed at all seams and edges and supported using fasteners with caps or heads ≥ 1 inch in diameter. Polyethylene should have a thickness of ≥ 6 mil.
All insulated vertical surfaces, including ceilings, must meet the air barrier requirements for walls, except for adiabatic walls in multifamily dwellings. Air sealing all seams, gaps, and holes in the air barrier is essential.
Do radiant barriers keep heat in?
Radiant barriers stabilize temperatures during summer and winter by reflecting the sun’s radiant energy away from the living space, preventing it from being absorbed by attic insulation. In winter, they retain warmth by reflecting heat back into the living area, maintaining a comfortable indoor environment year-round. This dual function reduces the amount of work HVAC systems need to do, benefiting utility bills. Radiant barriers and insulation are two distinct materials designed to improve a home’s energy efficiency.
Radiant barriers, typically made of aluminum foil, reduce heat transfer through radiation, preventing it from entering the home during summer and retaining warmth during winter. Insulation, on the other hand, impedes heat transfer through conduction and convection, trapping air pockets within its structure.
Do radiant barriers really work?
Radiant Barrier OSB sheathing can reflect up to 97% of solar radiation, reducing attic heat by up to thirty degrees Fahrenheit and improving comfort in other areas. Radiant barriers work by reducing radiant heat transfer from the roof to other surfaces in the attic, typically working best when perpendicular to the radiant energy. Living in a warm, sunny climate can benefit from reduced cooling costs of five to ten percent.
Insulation, on the other hand, is present in a home to slow down the loss or gain of heat, helping mitigate heating and cooling costs by preventing thermal transfer. Understanding the differences between radiant barriers and insulation is crucial for homeowners to make informed decisions about their insulation needs.
Does radiant barrier work on walls?
Radiant barriers can reduce heat flow in walls by forming a layer on the opposite side of ventilated airspace behind cladding. However, they should be used cautiously, especially in cold climates where a vapor barrier may not be desired. Perforated radiant barrier material is available but can cause condensation. The effectiveness of radiant barriers depends on the size of temperature differences. As insulation increases and temperature differences increase, radiant barriers may not make as significant a difference.
Additionally, radiant barriers only work when clean and shiny, preserving their reflectivity. Dirty or dusty materials can cause the barrier to stop functioning as a radiant barrier and function more like a typical surface.
What are the disadvantages of radiant barriers?
Moisture problems in radiant barriers can affect heat repellency and cause water damage and mold. To prevent moisture issues, use perforated radiant barriers and regularly inspect them for leaks. Other issues may be related to the environment and installation of the barriers, which can be the underlying cause or compounding effects on the home. Regular inspections can help identify and address moisture risks. It’s crucial to use perforated radiant barriers and regularly inspect them to prevent moisture issues.
Do radiant barriers need an air gap?
Ed, an expert on atticfoil. com, is frequently consulted on the subject of air gaps, offering authoritative responses on the purpose and definition of such devices.
Does radiant barrier keep heat out?
Radiant barriers are installed in homes to reduce summer heat gain and cooling costs. They consist of a highly reflective material that reflects radiant heat rather than absorbing it. These barriers do not reduce heat conduction like thermal insulation materials. Heat travels from a warm area to a cool area through conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction occurs when a hotter location conducts heat, while convection occurs when a liquid or gas air becomes less dense and rises.
Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its energy. Most insulation materials work by slowing conductive heat flow and to a lesser extent convective heat flow. Radiant barriers and reflective insulation systems work by reducing radiant heat gain. To be effective, the reflective surface must face an air space, and dust accumulation on the surface can reduce its reflective capability.
Does reflective insulation keep heat out?
Reflective insulation is a type of insulation that can both keep heat in and reflect heat away, unlike mass insulation materials like fiberglass and foam. Innovative Energy’s products can block 95% of radiant heat, making them ideal for various applications such as building insulation, temperature-sensitive packaging, and RV insulation. These products work more efficiently in key areas of a building, keeping perishable items safe in shipping and transportation, and maintaining food safety and quality.
Additionally, reflective insulation and duct systems are ideal for heating and cooling small spaces in RVs and fleet vans. Innovative Energy specializes in creating customized solutions for various applications, and can be contacted at 1-800-776-3645.
📹 It’s Too Hot – Roof Radiant Barrier To Block the Heat
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Matt, nice article. Your absolutely right on this one. Heat flow is all about the difference between the inside and outside temperature of an object. The sheathing behind a West or South facing wall can easily exceed 120 degrees since the brick can get over 150 degrees. With a radiant barrier in the assembly the sheathing (or foam board in this case) should be just a few degrees above ambient temperature. Drop the delta T and reduce the heat flow. It’s that simple. Ed
We had our builder wrap our entire house last year in 60″ breathable Atticfoil up here in sunny Dallas. Before the brick was installed, it looked like a lunar landing module! We finally made it through the dog days of summer this year and we are quite pleased with the overall results. Two story house around 4100 sq ft. In addition to the housewrap…….R60 blown attic insulation, radiant decking, two 30w solar attic fans, running 11 tons total Trane 16 SEER……..our average electric bill (at $0.10 per KWH) is around $130 with the thermostats set at 78. Note the garage walls were also fully insulated, and the garage doors are R20. For anyone who might be interested, cell phone reception was similar inside vs outside.
@HomeEnergyNow Yes we do need to be thoughtful about our use of petro products in our houses, however when we build houses to last 75-100-150 years the amount of energy saved certainly justifies the use of some resources at the beginning. We don’t know what energy prices will be in 2 years let alone 15 years so building a very efficient house makes financially and from a stewardship perspective. -Matt Risinger
Hey Matt, I love what you’re doing, your articles & how you educate the public… BTW quick question. I have some clients & I was explaining the importance of sheathing. Some builders use in this area of Texas: Unfaced Cellulose Foam Board Insulation with Sound Barrier. It is my opinion this is not the best choice to use to build your home & I commonly advise to stay away from those builders. Do you have any articles explaining the draw backs of that kind of material? I’m familiar with your article on OSB, plywood & zip sheathing comparison but was looking for something that explained the difference on this cheaper material.
Thanks for commenting! Yes, we only used the radiant barrier on S & W walls. We felt like the cost wasn’t worth it for the other walls here in sunny Austin TX. When using furring strips you want to ideally vent the space top & bottom. A sealed space will give you radiant barrier effect but won’t help you dry out your cladding. See my other articles on this rain screen method of siding installation. Best, Matt
Matt, we had several customers call us after perusal your article looking for a house wrap/radiant barrier. We actually have a single sided foil product 48″ and 60″ (foil only on one side) that is perfect for this application. atticfoil.com/products/60-single-house-wrap.html The foil will face out to the required air space. A radiant barrier behind brick, stone or siding is a low cost highly effective method to reduce radiant heat on walls that catch direct sun.
Matt, first a “thank you” for all your helpful articles. I am looking to place these so called foil-backed rigid foam boards in my attic along the beams up to the gable to release the heat through the ridge vent. When I went to one of the big box stores, I noticed what they call “foil” backed appears to be nothing more than silver paper (I pulled back a small piece to examine it). Whatever it is, it’s not what I consider to be aluminum foil. So my question is who makes these rigid foam boards with “real” aluminum foil on its side? I appreciated whatever advice you can offer. Thanks again!