This article provides a step-by-step guide on how to clean and detail the interior of your car. It covers the use of ceramic coating, microfiber cloths, applicator pads, masking tape (optional), and a well-lit workspace. Before removing a ceramic coating, it is essential to clean and prep the vehicle, including washing cycles using regular car soap and the two-bucket method. The decontamination cycle should be done in an inconspicuous place to ensure the product does not stain or discolor the fabric.
The article also discusses the importance of finding a shaded or cool area with good lighting for cleaning. Working in the sun can make the cleaning products less effective, as they might react to heat. Floor mats should be removed, vacuumed, and shaken against a hard surface to eliminate stubborn dust.
For rust and small holes, it is recommended to paint the doors and floor body color with POR15 or a generic undercoat. Rustoleum paint or industrial rustoleum paint can also be used for additional protection, insulation, and sound deadening. For the floor inside, Rustolium (SP?) or one of the industrial enamels from non-automotive paint stores can be used. Sandblasting the floor can help remove rust in little pits in the floor.
In conclusion, cleaning and detailing the interior of your car requires proper preparation, cleaning products, and proper cleaning methods. It is essential to find a shaded or cool area with good lighting to avoid discomfort and potential damage to the car’s interior.
📹 How to Remove and Prevent Rust in Vans | Mercedes Sprinter Conversion #8
Removing and preventing rust in a van is absolutely non negotiable prior to converting a van. Because not only will you struggle …
📹 SO MUCH BETTER! | POR 15 Applied to Floor Pans | 1963 F100
SO MUCH BETTER! | POR 15 Applied to Floor Pans | 1963 F100 POR 15 is an awesome product, that allows you to paint directly …
Due to the popularity of this Van Conversion series, I am relocating it to a dedicated Van Conversion website! youtube.com/@mattsvan The Matt Estlea 2 website was originally for shitposting and used as a proving ground for ideas we have, without the risk of damaging the main websites (Matt Estlea) ranking in YouTubes search algorythms. Ideally we’d like to continue using it for this purpose, but are concious of clogging up the feeds of people who only signed up for van related content. Hence the dedicated website. It also means I can use the dedicated website for travel vlogs and other van related content once the conversion is complete which sounds fun. Go subscribe!
thank you lord for this article. I’m on exactly same stage of my sprinter van conversion and I was wondering how I should tackle rust problem. My 2012 sprinter is in good condition but it has a lot of scratches inside just like yours. In my car, rust also collects under the seals at the windshield, but also at the sliding doors. Will you also remove rust in these places?
The abrasive discs are meant to be used at a low rotation speed so you need an angle grinder with variable speed adjustment. They degrade much slower if used at the correct speed. They are better than wire brushes (on an angle grinder) because the wire brushes can quickly become to hot and therefore polish the rust but don’t really remove it. Your electric drill has a much lower rotation speed, this is why the wire brush worked a lot better on it.
My van was like a colander after taking the ply liner out. (Some muppet had even gone into the diesel tank with 3″ screws. I couldn’t understand why it didn’t start leaking diesel till I took the ply up) Having wire brushed as per I then sealed up the smaller screw holes with very short self tappers dipped in Hammerite.
I can give you a reason you have the rust in the first place……All cars/trucks Get wet outside and inside …So why in areas And not in others…..Its not what the water is …Its whats in the water ..It carries Dirt that builds up And forms …Mud That mud has PH’s into Acids that soften the paint And lay under it ……Moldings floors Nice areas out of the view of the sun and take x4 amounts of time to dry out …Wash your van in the crack and trim 1 time a year check your floors under the carpet if you see signs of rust at other areas ….Clean the needles and leaves out of your wiper area
norton blaze rapid strip — its a way to go …last 10+ times longer than this “abrasive disc thing” from 1:02 and works like 5x faster anywhere else u need abrasive materials,cutting discs etc— go with 3M Cubitron II or Norton Blaze — they last 10+ longer than any other brand on the market and cut / grind etc 2x faster tested myself as a someone that really HATE to use abrasive materials (i’m working with composites like carbon fibre etc and metal😅 and daaamn … 1 piece of cubitron XTRACT for orbital sander last 15x longer than festool where its at least 3x faster) Blaze is like 70% of the 3M cubitron II speed and lifetime….but have way stronger and more elastic glue that last longer when u push it on small parts (nails, screws etc) where cubitron last longer and cuts /grind faster but easily get destroyed when u push it to hard but cost less only one issue with blaze is that it’s hard to find and it can be more expensive
Make damn sure you wear a respirator and wrap around safety goggles when using this stuff !! I used it outside and applied with a brush to the undercarriage of my truck and afterwards my eyes were burning and I had a headache that lasted for 3 days ! The warnings on the box ARE REAL !!! I’ve also read where a few people had to go to the ER after using it ! Read the warnings on the box before using !!!
My cousin has an Acura rsx that had some bad rust 6 years ago. We wire wheeled the loose stuff off and used the metal prep. Than painted it on. It’s been 6 years in the north east of the USA daily driven and it hasn’t come off and the rust hasn’t come back. Result definitely may vary. You gotta attack the rust behind the repair. If you don’t. It gets out of control fast.